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I did this to my 2002 ZR2. It doesn't add any HP whatsoever. All it does is drastically improve throttle response and make the power available to you much sooner. That fin was most likely put there to scavenge EGR gasses, but the 2002 model year eliminated the EGR. Most Chevy trucks I've driven have a very numb throttle, and this a great way to wake them up. In my case, it even helped the MPG a little bit.
I agree. However I didn't notice any change in fuel economy. My Sonoma is lightened so much that the truck was a little too sensitive with this mod, so changed back to a stock blade.
I can say, this made a big difference. I went to pull a part got one for $20 bucks, just in case it didn't work. Cut the lip off and made it smooth. Don't know if it gains hp, but it feels like it did. A lot quicker. The hesitation it had is gone. Very good mod.
WHOA! I did this, hit the gas out of my driveway and next thing you know, im doing about mach 3 through town! I got a ticket bc of the sonic boom heard halfway across Pennsylvania, $385 smackers!
Just did this mod to my 02 Sonoma 4WD 4.3 over the weekend. The deflector cut off very easy due to it being aluminum or a very light tin. Used the small cutoff wheel that comes with my Dremel kit. Then finished off by grinding down the raw lip to almost flush with the throttle plate. Also cleaned TB bore and IAC port. On test drive, I noticed immediate throttle response and traction loss when taking off from dead stop. Had to change right foot acceleration technique to be smoother and more sensitive but was easy to do. IMO this will work well for me. I don't mash the throttle anyway but the real gain for me is the drivability I get when pulling up hills and grades (a lot in my neck of the woods). That has changed for the better. I know I have not "gained" HP, I am only utilizing what was already there more efficiently. I recommend it but just be aware it changes the way you drive the truck. Best wishes all!
I just got a 69 mm TB from mace engineering with ecu remap and bcm setup for 4L60E transmission being firmer! Now I have to port match my new TB. Excellent throttle response and better fuel economy!
I can attest; did this after removing the throttle body and cutting this off the plate. Night & day! Cleaned the entire body and my truck runs soooo much better.
You don't have to worry about installing it incorrectly. With the remnant of the lip on one side it will only slide in on the other side. It will only line up to the screw holes. There is no room for adjustment. Go ahead and polish it up before you reinstall it.
I just tried a different way . Instead of grinding the whole flap off I chose to just cut 3’4’s of it off with a hack saw blade then rounded off the ends. I did this because of the comments about taking off at a stop and loosing traction. My hope is this way it will keep the air a bit more time instead of the rush of air by taking it all the way off. If I knew how to post a photo , I would . No heat from grinding wheel .
along with this mod, many years ago for the years i still had a stock filter box i did an k&n filter but i also removed the restrictive air inlet pipe going in the filter box to keep the cooler air a simple 3 in pipe is needed to get rid of the hidden 2 inch bottle neck restriction , its heled in by 1 rivet and a grove a flat tip screw driver works to pop it loose but i never did do it in the Sonoma ,(maybe i will one of the Blazers)i changed to an aftermarket k&n which did even better +with the throttle body blade mod
Way better throttle response and no lugging to get up to speed it's totally worth it 👌😉 2002 GMC SIERRA 1500 4.3 vortec V6 with 405 thousands miles a well used truck
@@rocketjr5120 I believe it was a 98 5.7 and my Sonoma was a 4.3 year 2000. Just go to a junkyard and pick one up for cheap and keep your original throttle body. And the tps and IAC sensors switch right over, drove the truck for 40k miles like that with no problem until I got rid of it. Hope this helps!
@@kuprebou57 Bingo! Haha even the sensors switch over and throttle cable and cruise control cable. Definitely should have been the way the 4.3 should have been
Don't they have the same size throttle body? If the 5.7 does have a larger bore throttle body, what about the intake opening on the plenum? If it's matched to the original you didn't increase the CFM.
@Cyber_Cowboy I beg to differ once I did this mod on a 4.3 vortec 1500 gmc sierra and before the mod she wouldn't even spin the tires once I did the mod she would spin the tires with ease as always your results may very but from me I gained more power, better pickup and better driveabilty
I see a lot of confused people(s) comments on here. Let me try and help you out and any new visitors viewing in the future. 1) The curved flap is there so that when you start off, the drive is sort of soft and easy. The engine doesn't suddenly rev and you jerk into motion and or spin tires. 2) You "do not" get/gain any extra horse power or extra high end speed or any better fuel savings. In fact, you will likely increase your fuel consumption and #3 is the following reason is why. 3) By removing the flap, you will feel and experience a sudden and direct increase in engine RPM's resulting in a more rapid take off from start/dead stop! Like anything else, it just take a short bit of practice to adjust to the feel and learn to take it easy on the pedal. Since the vehicle computer controls fuel to air ratio at all times, you will still consume the same amount of fuel. That is unless your are a heavy foot or a complete jerk having nothing better to do than show off your spinning wheels! Note: As in any situation on any vehicle. If you drive around with poor, smooth or virtually smooth or the wrong tires entirely for the weather, you could easily find yourself losing control and spinning out! So at the end of the day, you should think about whether you need or want to do this mod at all. Cheers.
Hi yeah I did this to my 4.3 vortec put an edlbrock intake manifold fuel rail and oh yeah 2 turbochargers that lip blocks the freedom of the air to enter my engine so I can properly warm up my tires for a pull, good luck with grandma speed
This works! I ported and polished throttle body to a mirror finish and i funnelled the TB and compare to standard? It made my vx commodore ecotec v6 jumpy. Im gonna carefully do this mod! Because if i ran triple su carbys at 1.75 inches and opening of 5.25 inches ( 133 mm) my Holden 202( xu1 internals went like a bat out of hell back in the 90s.
Yesterday the deflector on my blade got nearly ripped off and wasn't allowing the blade to shut so it was making my throttle stick like %25 open or more.. terrible design to rivvet a piece of tin to the throttle blade to begin with..
What did you do so the MAF didn’t just adjust for that additional airflow? Did you check your exhaust gas temperature after doing this? I’m just curious with the Lee mixture that you had after doing that, if you burnt any exhaust valves
The MAF should be upstream from this. So no side effects. This won't change the actual volume of air coming in, but the velocity and reduction or turbulence.
This mod does appear to work. I done it to my 2000 Silverado with the 4.3 vortec and my throttle is a lot more snappy and on just about any 2 lane roads I can cruise 60 easily.
This mod works for some added low end no question about it. Make sure you have a smog guy that's cool with it. This mod will instantly make the testing computer freak out in CA.
if you punch your throttle every time you take off this mod would be great for that. drag racing ect... for driving around.... no. i did this mod and i often find myself trying so hard to ez into the throttle without making it jump and jerk that im paused at the light when it goes green looking like im not paying attention but im just trying to ez into the throttle. too jumpy....
Actually, when "punching" the throttle wide open, this mod has no benefit. It's not a restriction to the 4.3s ability to draw in as much air as its capable of, without restriction. Even with the damper in place, these TBs are capable of supporting 300+ hp without restriction... All this mod is good for, is giving snappier throttle response at off-idle/part throttle. That's it.
Lee S. i disagree . you dont feel the response much more when off idle /part throttle. but its still more responsive/ jumpy when u punch it.i wouldnt even say MORE responsive. its just the way its responding is different. its more of an agressive response. it would still be responding with the damper just lagging because its choked out when the throttle plate is slightly lifted. this plate does restrict air at a certain throttle position....
milldabeast519 My results have been just the opposite of yours. There's definetly a part throttle difference. But flat-punching the throttle to the floor will make no difference, because the throttle bore will be open more to supply the engine with more airflow than the 4.3 can consume, regardless of which throttle blade I use.
Lee S. when people say they want a snappy throttle response they mean a faster response from the throttle . this does nothing of that sort. its just changing how its responds. which is jumpy. because instead of allowing the air in slow its rushing in. if you have a sense for it you will feel the difference at all levels of throttle.
I am wondering why not to just grind off the rivets(obviously grind on the unwanted plate side!) and then plug the holes? Plug with JB Weld or new rivets perhaps? Also; Couldn't you just get a throttle plate of the same size without the restrictor plate on it?
@@dragan3290 I have family in the land Down Under, always a pleasure to meet a fellow Ausie! I do some engineering stuff, and had a Corvette (5.7 LS1 baby!) that I de-screened the MAF. I don't recommend the mod, as you'll lose a bit of low-end torque to gain a little HP on top. The Screen straightens out the airflow, reducing turbulence, and increasing air velocity. It also makes a slightly more accurate MAF reading. Air velocity is important in maintaining low end torque, which is why an intake or exhaust that is too big in diameter reduces torque. Low RPM's= less air flow. Air slows down if less air flow in a bigger space. Think of a garden hose with your thumb over the end, slightly restricting... water sprays out with more velocity. A little of the right kind of 'restriction' is good for increased velocity to maintain low-end torque. No restriction is good for top-end horsepower (where you need maximum movement of air and exhaust gasses), but even a fellow Ausie isn't driving at full throttle 100% of the time! This throttle body restriction in the video, however, is nothing but a joke! In the late '90s, GM corporate fools must've asked themselves, "We're coming up with the next Gen Vortec engines, how are we gonna sell them?" "Gee I know, let's restrict and 'sand-bag' the trusty current gen Vortec's to make the next gen 'New and more powerful!" Brilliant!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 thanks for the quick reply! Cheers 🙂 👍👍👍. The maf I have is a spare. Same as my throttle body porting I did on a spare unit. Very jumpy but I'd you saw the throttle body? I funnelled it and polished till I got a mirror finish. Just as an expirement, but it feels so much more responsive. Lol.
@@dragan3290 sounds good! Porting and polishing helps, and the maf screen doesn't make a big difference either way. Certainly can't hurt it! You might have lost a tiny bit of torque, but you gained a little HP with the screen delete. Modifying engines is in our blood, and we can't help but pursue every last drop of HP, mpg, etc! It doesn't matter if it's a motorized bicycle, lawnmower, or SaturnV rocket engine! It's all good!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 actually I want to lose the jumpy feel as in the wet you can't take off even moderately. I also ported the intake manifold, matched the intake runners, and I put mace engineering manifold spacer and plenum spacer. So I've basically got a mini tunnel ram. Lol. If I can shift the power to midrange? I'm laughing! 🙂👍👍👍
That's why Chevy brilliantly installed an infinite-ratio throttle peddle. Very cool contraption, the driver can apply any amount of throttle from 0-100%! Really handy feature on ice and avoiding penalties from law enforcement, etc. My Corvettes came with this ingenious feature, and I never had a problem driving them. Crazy thing, with well over 400HP on tap, I never got a ticket, never recked the beasts, even found out it was capable of going less than 180mph, all because of this infinitely variable-ratio throttle feature!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 I simple put the Chevy Blazer into 4x4 And with actual ice and snow tires Not "winter Or all season" tires push threw feet(s) of snow Also good for going down that side road that turns into a gravel road that then turns into dirt And pits and bumps crossing a river ....Variable-ratio throttle / Throttle controller for $300 isn't going to do anything for me Or a Corvette stuck in a snow bank / muddy ditch Matter of fact 97% of corvette owners store their cars in snowy areas of North America for one of two reasons Salt And rust, Killing someone And being killed. Yet you say You have a throttle commander on your corvette has helped you drive on ice?
After doing this, is it normal for there to be more smoke coming out the exhaust? I would assume so since there’s more airflow now and it also cold outside.
This mod will do nothing but give you a bit more power just as you hit the gas. Nothing else will change at all unless you didn't get the parts put back right.
I got a throttle plate from another blazer at the junk yard same year as mine. Took the little flap off by grinding off the rivets and put it on my blazer. It idles way to fast. Looked a little closer and saw that all the carbon and varnish deposits were keeping it from closing. Cleaned all that up and checked the alignment of the plate and adjusted. It closes as far as it will go but still idles at 1400 rpm. Took the plate back out and rounded off the top edge that faces the firewall and it closed a little better but still idles way too fast. Next attempt will be to take the original plate and bend the little flap down and use it that way. This mod appears to be a bad idea.
If you do the mod exactly like I show it then you will have no issues. I think you have moved or bumped something else. This mod doesn't do anything to your idle.
I took the plate out with the extra holes. Drilled 5 holes 1/4 inch diameter in the flap of the original plate and put it in. It idles at 600 RPM now and those 5 holes in the flap gives it some extra air without removing the flap.
What's this work for a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3 Motor please comment back and let me know. It is for wheel drive ZR2 package. Every little bit of horsepower is good enough for me
bigcartoonyIIV I believe just to give you a "softer" take off. Not sure how else to describe it. Maybe the word would be a more controlled take off. Having it that plate on or off didn't really make that much difference. Would I do the mod again. Probably not.
I have been repairing my intake gasket,on my 4.3 v6 and I am debating if I want to cut it off, since the intake is out my engine. I would love more power, but I don't want to damage my engine. Is is effective if I grind half of it off?
bigcartoonyIIV This mod won't damage anything. The only thing it effects is right off idle. You can feel a little more punch right as you take off. To me it's not worth it. I would either take it completely off or leave it.
If you look at other throttle bodies, they may have a hump in front of the bottom part there. Ls1 throttle bodies have this hump for a more linear throttle response. You can gain flow by porting the hump out. That being said I believe this piece on the throttle body blade has the same effect, making part throttle more smooth, but taking away from response and flow.
mossman381 i i did this mod on my 4.3 and i dont like it... all it does is make the throttle jump off the hop from the sudden rush of air into the motor vs controlled release ... horrible mod if you drive a 2wd s10 in the winter and need very sensitive throttle on ice or being stuck trying to rock it.... if you wanna punch the throttle every time you take off get this mod....
I haven't done any mods but when I'm at a stop and I touch the peddle my truck tries to launch and outs you in the seat. You literally have to tip toe it. One thing I'd like to do is improve mpg. Any advice?
Maybe someone did the mod before you bought the truck. If you want fuel mileage make sure your engine is running at good as it can. Good spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean fuel filter, good O2 sensors, good CAT's. A bottle of fuel cleaner every now and then to keep your injectors spraying good. Clean oil is also important. And finally be easy with the throttle.
did this make a difference? i have a 2003 zr2 blazer 4.3 and i want a little bit snappier response. does this free mod work? did it affect your mpg much???
Best free mod there is for these engines. Doesn't add any horse power just lets more air in the moment the throttle is applied.😎 That flap is a diffuser and the only purpose it serves is to turbulate the incoming air to help it mix with fuel a little better in the combustion chambers but in doing so kills your throttle response from idle. guess gm engineering was okay with that as long as it meant potentially better fuel efficiency.
Don't!! Mine ripped off and just within the last few weeks of putting another blade on from one from a junk yard the idle keep sticking.i replaced the tps iac cleaned the throttle body and all that. it started up at 1,500 to 1,800rpm, even warmed up! Its a stick so when rolling to a stop the idle would stick where it was at or climb up, sometimes above 2k. Now with that back on a new blade runs like new. Also a hell of alot smother.
@@mossman381 my diffuser was bent off I'm going to have to find the proper size rivets for it it runs but it runs at 3,000 RPM if I cover the two holes and control the throttle it runs perfectly
Will this cause a check engine light or make it run lean? I've heard these things and makes me nervous. Can't stand a check engine light. What are the cons?
mossman381 That’s what I thought you would say. I’m pretty sure that I can plug the holes. I do not want to cut it off because of the intense heat that the grinding wheel causes.. Good video Sir.
This mod will not cause any bad things to happen unless you mess something up doing the mod. Is it worth all the work? If you want to feel every bit of performance out of your truck, then yes it's probably worth it. You can feel a difference when you first hit the gas. I have another S10 and I haven't done this mod. I don't think it's worth the work. If your truck is worn out and not running right to begin with you might not feel any gain.
For its size it’s a fairly inexpensive motor to play with. Parts range up to $600 to $700. Just short of flashing the ECM, aftermarket MAF sensor, and getting into the internals it runs strong. I added a CAI, the TB, spacer, manifold, headers, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust, underdrive pulley, and electric fans. I had an MSD 6A ignition, but after roasting a few plugs I took it out.
Where do you get a marine intake? I was wanting to upgrade my spider injector but I said screw it and wanted to get external injectors on s fuel rail. Was originally just going to ls swap it but I dont have time this year
It’s been several years but I bought the manifold online. I had the same feeling about the spider injectors, but did the upgrade a year before swapping manifolds. I really didn’t notice much difference with the upgraded spider. The marine manifold did give me a bit more noticeable low end boost in power. For the engine it is it can be really tough. IMO I’d go with the ls swap if you want your truck to run like a scalded ape.
There is a computer on these trucks with sensors that tell it what is going on with air flow and fuel. It will adjust fuel when more air comes in. There is a limit of what the stock injectors can do but this mod will not test that limit. Your truck might have old sensors or even a worn engine that won't allow you to feel much of a difference.
just wondering why you didn't port and polish the TB? its well worth it if you ever want to change the cam, I did it on my Corvette 5.7 ls1 it made a hell of a difference in power and MPG.
+Blake Chesla I am sure that GM played with all the options before going into production. To me this mod really isn't worth the effort. If you want to try taking half of it off let me know how it goes.
GM placed this restrictor on the throttle body to lower the Horse power out put to save on transmission warranty claims , this mod is free and quite frankly a bigger performance jump then adding cold air intake headers and exaust and removing cats its that big of a difference ... you are basically adding 30-40% more air flow to engine this is turbo charger or super charger territory here its THAT big of an improvement
@@mossman381 mossman, you are not an engineer. Merely relaying bad information to unsuspecting 4.3 owners looking for a way to get more power out of a stock engine. Every reply, he is backing up the results with bandaids, hoping to keep your *mod* intact. Simply, it does not work. Your engine lights will come on. Your engine will throw codes. It will ruin parts. It's nothing more than snake oil.
@@umarkedreturn8776 You are a complete moron. This mod does exactly what I say it does. Your truck is either junk or you messed it up when you did the mod incorrectly.
pues un poco mas de fuersa al pisar el acelerador porke esta entrando mas aire , en pocas palabras te va ayudar cuando le pisas te va a rasionar mas rapido
muchas gracias ya le hice la modificación responde mucho mejor en ralentí y en aceleraciones para rebasar o incrementar la velocidad tuve que reiniciar la ecu con un escaner para que funcionaran los nuevos valores.
Sorry nobody's replied to you sooner, you've probably already figured out what I'm about to tell you... As far as I know, they only put this joke throttle restrictor in GM Vortec 4300 V6, 5.0l and 5.7 V8s. I have a Vortec 7.4L V8 from the same era, and it doesn't have the stupid restrictor. I also have the newer 5.3L V8 in my Envoy and it doesn't have it. I think they put them in to 'sandbag' the the 1st gen Vortecs, so they could advertise the next gen Vortecs as 'new and much more powerful!' My smaller 5.3L has 60 more hp than the 5.7 did.
+Chase Tinsley - Yea I was thinking of that too, but I guess he's right. I am thinking to do this on mine. I am on a Horse Power Journey and I took most stuff out of our Truck / Car. I have a few Vids on my Channel and I really want to do this, LOL.
+S4v4geBeast - Yea, I thought of that too, using rivets to fill in the hole. Also, drill it out, if you don't like it. You can always " Rivet " back easily. Cutting would be a one time thing, and once its gone, it's gone for good ://.
I will strap it on the dyno tonight and get the results......... You don't actually get more HP. It just feels like it when you first hit the gas because the deflector isn't restricting air anymore. It's was designed that way for smoother starts.
It's not because of more air, it's because of more weight on the plate, likely slows down the tip in. So you might get a jerkier, jumpier throttle but the truck isn't the slightest bit faster because it's not making any more horsepower. Because it's not flowing any more air. Because that is not the choke point anyway.
If you do happen to grind down the river by mistake you can put rivets back in regular blind rivets work out well just make sure you have a thin piece of metal with a small hole to regulate your Idol I don't know the exact size of the hole so if anyone can figure that out that would be awesome And yes I have done this but I have done it with a thin sheet of metal to replace the diffuser and then replace it by drilling the hole to the size around the diffuser you can change the idle of this way and make it run smoother
No need to be scared of this mod. It won't wreck anything. Your truck will feel a little snappier right as you push the gas. If you drive on winter roads just be aware of that when driving on slippery roads.
@Spencer Irwin Might have cut the rivet out in the center, doing this will cause a high idle. Uneven and misaligned replacement of the blade will also cause high idle or in extreme situations a no start.
If you drilled the rivits out toss it away and get another one. Part of the air deflector stays and so do the rivits without the rivits it idles way to high.
That other hole roughly place between the rivets is your idle air inlet. That's why you only cut the lip off! With the IAC valve & throttle completely closed, your engine should idle around 600 (or @ least under 1000) rpm after warm up. When you drill the rivets out, you now have 3 HUGE HOLES causing your engine to idle high. Beyond what your IAC vavle can actually control. I did this to my 1st 2wd 5 speed 01 Blazer and loved it... Helped me destroy the rear diff that still sits in my garage till this day. Not sure if I'll do this on my 4x4 5 speed
@@Ezequiel42o I wish I could send you a picture. Just make sure there are no holes in the plate. You also do not need to remove the throttle body. Just unscrew the plate and pull it out
I did it to my 99 Tahoe after it gave me a po171 and po174 codes it does give a bit more throttle response but ecm detects to much air or too lean so it’s it worth it? I think not so I put my original plate back on my throttle unit anybody wants the shave plate?
This mod doesn't give you engine codes. If the computer sees more air you get more fuel. If you are getting codes you messed something up doing the mod.
The check engine light come on right after you did the mod? How did you do the mod? Did you drill out the rivets and leave the open holes? Not sure how else you could have put your original piece back on.
This mod doesn't do anything but add a little more air flow just as you push the throttle pedal. The computer should be able to compensate for the added flow. Did you check codes before the mod. Codes can sit in the computer for a while. You sure those codes weren't older ones? Did you clear them and see if they come back?
Its the same amount of power just improves throttle responsiveness. And the filters would do maybe 3 or 4 horsepower and the throttle body spacers do jack shit so.
have you put a groove under the blade ? I did that on top of all the other stuff cat back exhaust to I noticed alot more throttle response on my 4.3 but after the initial jump upon flooring it it slowly falls off
What if you just flipped it around so you didn't have to cut it ? And if needed you wouldn't ruin the whole piece but have the option to switch back to normal if you realised your 4.3 was only getting 5L/km lmao
Would work up to a certain degree of throttle opening then would still inhibit airflow after up to wide open throttle. Still an interesting idea though.
Wouldn’t that lip be there for a reason? I’m hesitant about altering something that’s been engineered by someone a lot smarter than me. They didn’t put it there to make your truck slow did they? I don’t know just sayin. I would like to get more performance out of mine too but at what cost?
It's there so when you push the gas it's more predictable and gradually makes power. This mod will give you the power much quicker. I believe GM was thinking in snow climates this would help and it does.
The *lip* on the throttle plate is there to give you low end torque when starting out. When you remove or alter the plate, you lose the low end torque, use more fuel, throw codes, ruin your cats, and your 02 sensors. The maker of the video should have put in the caveat *Do at your own risk*. Now, and even years ago, the maker of the video says that "It is not worth doing and would not do it" so what does that tell you?
Designed to give more progressive throttle feel, so more controllable at low throttle, i.e. it doesn't just take off. An eccentric cam on the throttle cable lever would be a far more efficient means of achieving same aim, without restricting throttle body when foot down.
No difference really. Throttle plate was kinda sticking at first so I thought it was a little more snappy but it was really just the throttle plate jumping... coulp3 weeks later was back to same old...
This isn't going to add 1 ounce of hp or torque. That little peice of metal removed couldn't possibly restrict enough air to the engine to cut hp + you're not adding any fuel. + air & no extra fuel = 0. I saw one of these trucks on a dyno once at a car show. It was a 97 4.3L 5speed manual. It ran great. It only had 132hp at the rear tires. If you really want to wake the engine up do a real mod like change the axle ratio to 3.42 or 3.73. Maybe put a Y pipe off a 4x4 on your truck. They aren't crimped under the oil pan area so they're less restrictive. Maybe if you feel like you're rich one day drop $3k on a Wynjammer Supercharger. It comes as a kit modded fuel injectors and everything you need to get it up to about 280hp. Well you'll probably need a new motor too. If you have over 80k miles on your engine? It's just not a good idea to mod it. By the time an engine has 80k on it,it likely has too loose of tolerances. Additional hp will make it wear out sooner.
I read someplace this is a bad idea but I can't remember why lol I think it had something to do with the EGR system. I just know it was not a smart mod 🤷🏻♂️.
This does nothing but restrict air flow just as the gas is pressed. With it removed you get better off idle performance. There is no way this could hurt anything unless you drop parts down your intake.
Running a dyno for 18 years now, I've had several guys in the 2000s do this mod to 4.3s and 350s and it literally makes no difference on a dyno. I've seen a 1.3 hp increase on a vortec 350 once but that was only one time. Just leave it alone. Not worth the time and effort to even mess with it.
I don't know about a dyno but driving the truck you can feel a difference. Right when you hit the throttle it feels like you have more power. I probably wouldn't do this mod by itself but as long as you have it tore apart it's an easy mod that you can feel when driving.
only thing this mod did for me was slightly more power down low and a whole lot of ping. Dont do it, messes with egr and will make your engine lean due to more air easily entering and no more fuel since it is already past the MAF sensor
This mod does not mess with the EGR. It does add more air right off idle. Your computer knows all about that extra air. I am not sure how people come up with these weird conclusions. You have a new ping because of something else you did. Not this mod.
I had it done too gadgetman groove on carbureted 22r 4wd pick up drove around took a few highway drives. after 9yrs ,took it off my engine block still has same effect with it on Still great block aerodynamic permanent upgrade changes for the better of course"%:$;$;$%:;$#$)\only 400.00 hammers and I can still do other engine blocks just install it start driving the gadgetmangroove into it. Bigtimer for sure seriously!
Im sorry but all that extra work for nothing, for the ones that dont know, you can in fact do this on the truck like he said, just stuff toilet paper under your throttle plate, then drill the stupid rivets out, the ENTIRE thing is removed, clean it up and place aluminum tape over the rivet holes...DONE!
Keith Bartlett There are many different ways to do most things. This is the way I did it. I don't like the idea of using tape. I know the kind of tape you are talking about but I don't think it is designed for use in engines.
mossman381 I think mossman381 did best by cutting it off. You never know if the aluminum tape is going to stay put. You dont want that shit being sucked into your engine.
Keith Bartlett If you do this on the vehicle, you take entirely too many chances of getting metal particles into the intake. Its always best to remove a part when doing something like this.
That's hacked up. The plate also has an air orfice in it, and the hole in the TB is larger than it has to be without it. And metal tape over the rivet holes??? Can't imagine that ever failing...
cutting it off is best method your method is a ticking time bomb as that tape in some point in the future is destined to travel into the engine when it comes loose and possibly doing damage to your internals at very least you will have air going into the engine that is not metered by the IAC valve causing idle issues at very least
Do NOT do this... this changes shift points and makes pedal too touchy in traffic.. camshaft and stock intake are these engines weak points, leave the T body ALONE.... smh
I noticed a difference. Your truck probably has other issues or problems that don't allow you to feel much of a difference because it's not running that great.
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I did this to my 2002 ZR2. It doesn't add any HP whatsoever. All it does is drastically improve throttle response and make the power available to you much sooner. That fin was most likely put there to scavenge EGR gasses, but the 2002 model year eliminated the EGR. Most Chevy trucks I've driven have a very numb throttle, and this a great way to wake them up. In my case, it even helped the MPG a little bit.
I agree. However I didn't notice any change in fuel economy.
My Sonoma is lightened so much that the truck was a little too sensitive with this mod, so changed back to a stock blade.
Michael Beutler if it allows more air in... that adds horsepower...
It only adds horsepower at part throttle. Full throttle makes no difference.
Maybe if it becomes too sensitive you can cut off not the whole thing but only a half of it to improve response?
lmfao.....I JUST did this to my 98 jimmy and hoooooly....shit!!!!
I can say, this made a big difference. I went to pull a part got one for $20 bucks, just in case it didn't work. Cut the lip off and made it smooth. Don't know if it gains hp, but it feels like it did. A lot quicker. The hesitation it had is gone. Very good mod.
Is that literally cannot make a big difference without considering this modification does zero difference
WHOA! I did this, hit the gas out of my driveway and next thing you know, im doing about mach 3 through town! I got a ticket bc of the sonic boom heard halfway across Pennsylvania, $385 smackers!
Lol
(Patient) "Doctor, it HURTS when I do THIS!" (Doctor) "Well, don't do that!"
I can definitely tell the difference after I did this mod. From a dead stop it feels way better not so sluggish.
Yeah the placebo effect is real. That mod does absolutely nothing and you would not be able to tell a difference
Just did this mod to my 02 Sonoma 4WD 4.3 over the weekend. The deflector cut off very easy due to it being aluminum or a very light tin. Used the small cutoff wheel that comes with my Dremel kit. Then finished off by grinding down the raw lip to almost flush with the throttle plate. Also cleaned TB bore and IAC port. On test drive, I noticed immediate throttle response and traction loss when taking off from dead stop. Had to change right foot acceleration technique to be smoother and more sensitive but was easy to do. IMO this will work well for me. I don't mash the throttle anyway but the real gain for me is the drivability I get when pulling up hills and grades (a lot in my neck of the woods). That has changed for the better. I know I have not "gained" HP, I am only utilizing what was already there more efficiently. I recommend it but just be aware it changes the way you drive the truck. Best wishes all!
I just got a 69 mm TB from mace engineering with ecu remap and bcm setup for 4L60E transmission being firmer! Now I have to port match my new TB. Excellent throttle response and better fuel economy!
I can attest; did this after removing the throttle body and cutting this off the plate. Night & day! Cleaned the entire body and my truck runs soooo much better.
You don't have to worry about installing it incorrectly. With the remnant of the lip on one side it will only slide in on the other side. It will only line up to the screw holes. There is no room for adjustment.
Go ahead and polish it up before you reinstall it.
I just tried a different way . Instead of grinding the whole flap off I chose to just cut 3’4’s of it off with a hack saw blade then rounded off the ends. I did this because of the comments about taking off at a stop and loosing traction. My hope is this way it will keep the air a bit more time instead of the rush of air by taking it all the way off. If I knew how to post a photo , I would .
No heat from grinding wheel .
A 5.7 throttle body has a little lip on them, and it bolts right up on 4.3. Definitely better route then doing all that work lol
Just did it to my 2003 s10. Works surprisingly well. I experienced a slight low end lag with a Spectre CAI installed. This removed that completely
along with this mod, many years ago for the years i still had a stock filter box i did an k&n filter but i also removed the restrictive air inlet pipe going in the filter box to keep the cooler air a simple 3 in pipe is needed to get rid of the hidden 2 inch bottle neck restriction , its heled in by 1 rivet and a grove a flat tip screw driver works to pop it loose but i never did do it in the Sonoma ,(maybe i will one of the Blazers)i changed to an aftermarket k&n which did even better +with the throttle body blade mod
Way better throttle response and no lugging to get up to speed it's totally worth it 👌😉 2002 GMC SIERRA 1500 4.3 vortec V6 with 405 thousands miles a well used truck
A well taken care of truck it sounds like. The 4.3 is a great engine.
405K miles, sounds like you do regular oil changes. My 4.3 had over 300K but the truck finally cratered.
Thanks for the free HP tip so gonna try that
My buddy just tried taking the plate out while it was still on the engine and a screw just fell into the motor😂😂😂
OMG, noooooooooooooo!
Send ittttt..... lol
That was not smart at all.
I felt physical pain reading that. I hope he somehow got it out.
@@bigboyexpress6668 naw he didnt he left it and its been a couple months now and he hasnt had a problem yet. Idk how its crazy.
I bought a $15 throttle body from a 5.7 and bolted it on my Sonoma, and I saw much improvement
5.7 wut year?
The 4.3 is the 5.7 engine with two cylinders sliced off. Almost all parts are identical and readily available.
@@rocketjr5120 I believe it was a 98 5.7 and my Sonoma was a 4.3 year 2000. Just go to a junkyard and pick one up for cheap and keep your original throttle body. And the tps and IAC sensors switch right over, drove the truck for 40k miles like that with no problem until I got rid of it. Hope this helps!
@@kuprebou57 Bingo! Haha even the sensors switch over and throttle cable and cruise control cable. Definitely should have been the way the 4.3 should have been
Don't they have the same size throttle body? If the 5.7 does have a larger bore throttle body, what about the intake opening on the plenum? If it's matched to the original you didn't increase the CFM.
I found a Throttle without the deflector, i installed and my Sonoma got better on response. You can feel a good difference
so is there a limit to how much horsepower I can get before they start charging me or can I hit 1000 for free?
Mossman you are a legend. Awesome video brother!
nooo..do not bang the edge of the throttle plate....you need to keep that smooth..its the seal to the throttle body.
I like your no B/S approach
You like the no BS approach on a video 100% about bs lol
This mod does nothing.
@Cyber_Cowboy I beg to differ once I did this mod on a 4.3 vortec 1500 gmc sierra and before the mod she wouldn't even spin the tires once I did the mod she would spin the tires with ease as always your results may very but from me I gained more power, better pickup and better driveabilty
I see a lot of confused people(s) comments on here. Let me try and help you out and any new visitors viewing in the future.
1) The curved flap is there so that when you start off, the drive is sort of soft and easy. The engine doesn't suddenly rev and you jerk into motion and or spin tires.
2) You "do not" get/gain any extra horse power or extra high end speed or any better fuel savings. In fact, you will likely increase your fuel consumption and #3 is the following reason is why.
3) By removing the flap, you will feel and experience a sudden and direct increase in engine RPM's resulting in a more rapid take off from start/dead stop! Like anything else, it just take a short bit of practice to adjust to the feel and learn to take it easy on the pedal. Since the vehicle computer controls fuel to air ratio at all times, you will still consume the same amount of fuel. That is unless your are a heavy foot or a complete jerk having nothing better to do than show off your spinning wheels!
Note: As in any situation on any vehicle. If you drive around with poor, smooth or virtually smooth or the wrong tires entirely for the weather, you could easily find yourself losing control and spinning out!
So at the end of the day, you should think about whether you need or want to do this mod at all.
Cheers.
Hi yeah I did this to my 4.3 vortec put an edlbrock intake manifold fuel rail and oh yeah 2 turbochargers that lip blocks the freedom of the air to enter my engine so I can properly warm up my tires for a pull, good luck with grandma speed
And I still get 26mph on the highway with 460 HP ;)
@Jason Winkowski How so? The MAF sensor is upstream from the throttle body!
@@annabellewolfgang7177 "26mph" on the highway is a little slow don't cha think?
This works! I ported and polished throttle body to a mirror finish and i funnelled the TB and compare to standard? It made my vx commodore ecotec v6 jumpy. Im gonna carefully do this mod! Because if i ran triple su carbys at 1.75 inches and opening of 5.25 inches ( 133 mm) my Holden 202( xu1 internals went like a bat out of hell back in the 90s.
Yesterday the deflector on my blade got nearly ripped off and wasn't allowing the blade to shut so it was making my throttle stick like %25 open or more.. terrible design to rivvet a piece of tin to the throttle blade to begin with..
a lot better response. I can get of the clutch quicker and it overall feels faster. this was for a 2004 4.3 vortec silverado
What did you do so the MAF didn’t just adjust for that additional airflow? Did you check your exhaust gas temperature after doing this? I’m just curious with the Lee mixture that you had after doing that, if you burnt any exhaust valves
The MAF should be upstream from this. So no side effects. This won't change the actual volume of air coming in, but the velocity and reduction or turbulence.
This mod does appear to work. I done it to my 2000 Silverado with the 4.3 vortec and my throttle is a lot more snappy and on just about any 2 lane roads I can cruise 60 easily.
What about Gas Saving???
Lol what car doesn't cruise at 60 mph unless its a beater?? 😂😂😂
@@kathleenkatefraser1765 right lol wtf
@@JodBronson this mod doesn't save gas
@@dudeinoakland - Thankx for the reply. I learn that a while back.
Those screws are held in with locktite so they don't get in the engine
I drilled through the rivets and I JB welded the holes on both sides. If I had a Rivet tool it would’ve helped
This mod works for some added low end no question about it. Make sure you have a smog guy that's cool with it. This mod will instantly make the testing computer freak out in CA.
if you punch your throttle every time you take off this mod would be great for that. drag racing ect... for driving around.... no. i did this mod and i often find myself trying so hard to ez into the throttle without making it jump and jerk that im paused at the light when it goes green looking like im not paying attention but im just trying to ez into the throttle. too jumpy....
Actually, when "punching" the throttle wide open, this mod has no benefit.
It's not a restriction to the 4.3s ability to draw in as much air as its capable of, without restriction.
Even with the damper in place, these TBs are capable of supporting 300+ hp without restriction...
All this mod is good for, is giving snappier throttle response at off-idle/part throttle. That's it.
Lee S. i disagree . you dont feel the response much more when off idle /part throttle. but its still more responsive/ jumpy when u punch it.i wouldnt even say MORE responsive. its just the way its responding is different. its more of an agressive response. it would still be responding with the damper just lagging because its choked out when the throttle plate is slightly lifted. this plate does restrict air at a certain throttle position....
milldabeast519
My results have been just the opposite of yours.
There's definetly a part throttle difference.
But flat-punching the throttle to the floor will make no difference, because the throttle bore will be open more to supply the engine with more airflow than the 4.3 can consume, regardless of which throttle blade I use.
Lee S. when people say they want a snappy throttle response they mean a faster response from the throttle . this does nothing of that sort. its just changing how its responds. which is jumpy. because instead of allowing the air in slow its rushing in. if you have a sense for it you will feel the difference at all levels of throttle.
milldabeast519 you cant drive ive done this mod and can barely feel a difference other then better throttle response
I am wondering why not to just grind off the rivets(obviously grind on the unwanted plate side!) and then plug the holes? Plug with JB Weld or new rivets perhaps? Also; Couldn't you just get a throttle plate of the same size without the restrictor plate on it?
because this is way easier.
Grinding the rivet would cause additional idle air flow due to holes in the plate
@@jenmelendez6237 So you didn't read the whole question.
works great! pulled honey comb off my mass airflow sensor and cleaned it wow all stock but felt like a different truck!
Hi I have a 3.8 v6 ecotec and I have the mesh screen ! Did it really make a difference pulling it out? Cheers from Australia
@@dragan3290 I have family in the land Down Under, always a pleasure to meet a fellow Ausie! I do some engineering stuff, and had a Corvette (5.7 LS1 baby!) that I de-screened the MAF. I don't recommend the mod, as you'll lose a bit of low-end torque to gain a little HP on top. The Screen straightens out the airflow, reducing turbulence, and increasing air velocity. It also makes a slightly more accurate MAF reading. Air velocity is important in maintaining low end torque, which is why an intake or exhaust that is too big in diameter reduces torque. Low RPM's= less air flow. Air slows down if less air flow in a bigger space. Think of a garden hose with your thumb over the end, slightly restricting... water sprays out with more velocity. A little of the right kind of 'restriction' is good for increased velocity to maintain low-end torque. No restriction is good for top-end horsepower (where you need maximum movement of air and exhaust gasses), but even a fellow Ausie isn't driving at full throttle 100% of the time! This throttle body restriction in the video, however, is nothing but a joke! In the late '90s, GM corporate fools must've asked themselves, "We're coming up with the next Gen Vortec engines, how are we gonna sell them?" "Gee I know, let's restrict and 'sand-bag' the trusty current gen Vortec's to make the next gen 'New and more powerful!" Brilliant!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 thanks for the quick reply! Cheers 🙂 👍👍👍. The maf I have is a spare. Same as my throttle body porting I did on a spare unit. Very jumpy but I'd you saw the throttle body? I funnelled it and polished till I got a mirror finish. Just as an expirement, but it feels so much more responsive. Lol.
@@dragan3290 sounds good! Porting and polishing helps, and the maf screen doesn't make a big difference either way. Certainly can't hurt it! You might have lost a tiny bit of torque, but you gained a little HP with the screen delete. Modifying engines is in our blood, and we can't help but pursue every last drop of HP, mpg, etc! It doesn't matter if it's a motorized bicycle, lawnmower, or SaturnV rocket engine! It's all good!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 actually I want to lose the jumpy feel as in the wet you can't take off even moderately. I also ported the intake manifold, matched the intake runners, and I put mace engineering manifold spacer and plenum spacer. So I've basically got a mini tunnel ram. Lol. If I can shift the power to midrange? I'm laughing! 🙂👍👍👍
good to wake up the engine at first throttle....not so good in the winter at a green light and ice under your wheels
pull her down into 2nd gear, then take off
If you could drive lol
Ha 😆 👉👌
That's why Chevy brilliantly installed an infinite-ratio throttle peddle. Very cool contraption, the driver can apply any amount of throttle from 0-100%! Really handy feature on ice and avoiding penalties from law enforcement, etc. My Corvettes came with this ingenious feature, and I never had a problem driving them. Crazy thing, with well over 400HP on tap, I never got a ticket, never recked the beasts, even found out it was capable of going less than 180mph, all because of this infinitely variable-ratio throttle feature!
@@jeladsnikpoh1289 I simple put the Chevy Blazer into 4x4 And with actual ice and snow tires Not "winter Or all season" tires push threw feet(s) of snow Also good for going down that side road that turns into a gravel road that then turns into dirt And pits and bumps crossing a river ....Variable-ratio throttle / Throttle controller for $300 isn't going to do anything for me Or a Corvette stuck in a snow bank / muddy ditch Matter of fact 97% of corvette owners store their cars in snowy areas of North America for one of two reasons Salt And rust, Killing someone And being killed. Yet you say You have a throttle commander on your corvette has helped you drive on ice?
After doing this, is it normal for there to be more smoke coming out the exhaust? I would assume so since there’s more airflow now and it also cold outside.
This mod will do nothing but give you a bit more power just as you hit the gas. Nothing else will change at all unless you didn't get the parts put back right.
Can it be removed from the bottom?
I got a throttle plate from another blazer at the junk yard same year as mine. Took the little flap off by grinding off the rivets and put it on my blazer. It idles way to fast. Looked a little closer and saw that all the carbon and varnish deposits were keeping it from closing. Cleaned all that up and checked the alignment of the plate and adjusted. It closes as far as it will go but still idles at 1400 rpm. Took the plate back out and rounded off the top edge that faces the firewall and it closed a little better but still idles way too fast. Next attempt will be to take the original plate and bend the little flap down and use it that way. This mod appears to be a bad idea.
If you do the mod exactly like I show it then you will have no issues. I think you have moved or bumped something else. This mod doesn't do anything to your idle.
It did to mine.
I took the plate out with the extra holes. Drilled 5 holes 1/4 inch diameter in the flap of the original plate and put it in. It idles at 600 RPM now and those 5 holes in the flap gives it some extra air without removing the flap.
What's this work for a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3 Motor please comment back and let me know. It is for wheel drive ZR2 package. Every little bit of horsepower is good enough for me
Just an fyi, I have removed these from cylinders when they come apart . Engine made an awful racket.
Like if they are modified and failed?
🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂 how has no one got this after 3 years
What is the technical reason for the restriction plate?
bigcartoonyIIV I believe just to give you a "softer" take off. Not sure how else to describe it. Maybe the word would be a more controlled take off. Having it that plate on or off didn't really make that much difference. Would I do the mod again. Probably not.
I have been repairing my intake gasket,on my 4.3 v6 and I am debating if I want to cut it off, since the intake is out my engine. I would love more power, but I don't want to damage my engine. Is is effective if I grind half of it off?
bigcartoonyIIV This mod won't damage anything. The only thing it effects is right off idle. You can feel a little more punch right as you take off. To me it's not worth it. I would either take it completely off or leave it.
If you look at other throttle bodies, they may have a hump in front of the bottom part there. Ls1 throttle bodies have this hump for a more linear throttle response. You can gain flow by porting the hump out.
That being said I believe this piece on the throttle body blade has the same effect, making part throttle more smooth, but taking away from response and flow.
mossman381 i i did this mod on my 4.3 and i dont like it... all it does is make the throttle jump off the hop from the sudden rush of air into the motor vs controlled release ... horrible mod if you drive a 2wd s10 in the winter and need very sensitive throttle on ice or being stuck trying to rock it.... if you wanna punch the throttle every time you take off get this mod....
I haven't done any mods but when I'm at a stop and I touch the peddle my truck tries to launch and outs you in the seat. You literally have to tip toe it. One thing I'd like to do is improve mpg. Any advice?
Maybe someone did the mod before you bought the truck. If you want fuel mileage make sure your engine is running at good as it can. Good spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean fuel filter, good O2 sensors, good CAT's. A bottle of fuel cleaner every now and then to keep your injectors spraying good. Clean oil is also important. And finally be easy with the throttle.
@@mossman381 40 ohm wires and platinum coated plugs, ect. I may do an EGR deleted and put in an electric fan
did this make a difference? i have a 2003 zr2 blazer 4.3 and i want a little bit snappier response. does this free mod work? did it affect your mpg much???
Don't know about mileage but it does make the truck feel more powerful on take off.
LOL, more Air more Joy? LOL
Best free mod there is for these engines. Doesn't add any horse power just lets more air in the moment the throttle is applied.😎 That flap is a diffuser and the only purpose it serves is to turbulate the incoming air to help it mix with fuel a little better in the combustion chambers but in doing so kills your throttle response from idle. guess gm engineering was okay with that as long as it meant potentially better fuel efficiency.
I Am YZDEMON
Don't!! Mine ripped off and just within the last few weeks of putting another blade on from one from a junk yard the idle keep sticking.i replaced the tps iac cleaned the throttle body and all that. it started up at 1,500 to 1,800rpm, even warmed up! Its a stick so when rolling to a stop the idle would stick where it was at or climb up, sometimes above 2k. Now with that back on a new blade runs like new. Also a hell of alot smother.
mazdafiero11 Removing that deflector will not effect the idle. You had other issues.
Yeah I think is was the cruise control, I unhooked the wire and now it seems fine damn thing would pull the blade wide open to 4,500!!
Don't forget to groove out under the blade look up the gadgetman on here
Thank you.
I'm just curious what will happen if I take out the rivets will it steel run and will it just run Rich with a bit more high idle
I am not sure I would do that. It will leak air when the throttle is closed. Why not just do it the way I show? Then you know it will work.
@@mossman381 my diffuser was bent off I'm going to have to find the proper size rivets for it it runs but it runs at 3,000 RPM if I cover the two holes and control the throttle it runs perfectly
Loctite?
Not really needed, but can't hurt. Autozone has it.
Will this cause a check engine light or make it run lean? I've heard these things and makes me nervous. Can't stand a check engine light. What are the cons?
It sure does po171 code and po174
@@67thecrow idk, I went ahead and did it. 2 weeks now and no codes. Definitely makes a difference. It's snappier from stop.
Why not just grind off the rivets ?
Because then you will have holes that you will need to plug somehow.
mossman381 That’s what I thought you would say. I’m pretty sure that I can plug the holes. I do not want to cut it off because of the intense heat that the grinding wheel causes.. Good video Sir.
@@schism420420 That piece is so thin it doesn't take much to cut it. Make sure whatever you use to plug the holes doesn't fall off.
Hey how did the truck run with this mod? There are some with mixed opinions
This mod will not cause any bad things to happen unless you mess something up doing the mod. Is it worth all the work? If you want to feel every bit of performance out of your truck, then yes it's probably worth it. You can feel a difference when you first hit the gas. I have another S10 and I haven't done this mod. I don't think it's worth the work. If your truck is worn out and not running right to begin with you might not feel any gain.
How well does this work. Does it feel noticeable?
You can feel it at take off. If you have winter with snow take it easy.
Hell I wish I could see snow. I live in South East north Carolina. Have you put a programmer or a tune on your s10?
Truck was completely stock.
I actually bought a bored and ported tb for my truck. IMO spend the ~$300 for a marine manifold, do this mod, and get the ceramic headers.
best all motor 4.3 budget build start im in the middle doin tht exact set up gatta have the alluminum distributor to
For its size it’s a fairly inexpensive motor to play with. Parts range up to $600 to $700. Just short of flashing the ECM, aftermarket MAF sensor, and getting into the internals it runs strong. I added a CAI, the TB, spacer, manifold, headers, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust, underdrive pulley, and electric fans. I had an MSD 6A ignition, but after roasting a few plugs I took it out.
Where do you get a marine intake? I was wanting to upgrade my spider injector but I said screw it and wanted to get external injectors on s fuel rail. Was originally just going to ls swap it but I dont have time this year
It’s been several years but I bought the manifold online. I had the same feeling about the spider injectors, but did the upgrade a year before swapping manifolds. I really didn’t notice much difference with the upgraded spider. The marine manifold did give me a bit more noticeable low end boost in power. For the engine it is it can be really tough. IMO I’d go with the ls swap if you want your truck to run like a scalded ape.
@@bolerdweller man you can get it on amazon just put vortecc 4.3 intake and done
So why do the have that lip from the factory?
To smooth out acceleration from a closed throttle. For pussy foot drivers
I just did this. You can hear more air being pulled in at initial throttle, but without more fuel this does nothing. It's a placebo effect
There is a computer on these trucks with sensors that tell it what is going on with air flow and fuel. It will adjust fuel when more air comes in. There is a limit of what the stock injectors can do but this mod will not test that limit. Your truck might have old sensors or even a worn engine that won't allow you to feel much of a difference.
Restrictor plate!😅
just wondering why you didn't port and polish the TB? its well worth it if you ever want to change the cam, I did it on my Corvette 5.7 ls1 it made a hell of a difference in power and MPG.
This is going on an S10. I have bought ported throttle bodies before and they are a great upgrade. You can feel a difference.
How was your gas mileage after..?.
o why did the factory include the piece you remov3d? for sound reduction?
I think they wanted to smooth out the take off.
@@mossman381 great thanks
Will taking off only part of the diffuser or whatever that piece is called, still work? Maybe then it wouldn't jump as much??
+Blake Chesla I am sure that GM played with all the options before going into production. To me this mod really isn't worth the effort. If you want to try taking half of it off let me know how it goes.
GM placed this restrictor on the throttle body to lower the Horse power out put to save on transmission warranty claims , this mod is free and quite frankly a bigger performance jump then adding cold air intake headers and exaust and removing cats its that big of a difference ... you are basically adding 30-40% more air flow to engine this is turbo charger or super charger territory here its THAT big of an improvement
Will this cause my engine light to come on, because my 97 cheyenne likes to throw me some random service engine soon lights
This will not cause any check engine lights.
@@mossman381 mossman, you are not an engineer. Merely relaying bad information to unsuspecting 4.3 owners looking for a way to get more power out of a stock engine. Every reply, he is backing up the results with bandaids, hoping to keep your *mod* intact. Simply, it does not work. Your engine lights will come on. Your engine will throw codes. It will ruin parts. It's nothing more than snake oil.
@@umarkedreturn8776 You are a complete moron. This mod does exactly what I say it does. Your truck is either junk or you messed it up when you did the mod incorrectly.
hola buen dia que beneficios se obtienen al modificar la paloma del del acelerado tengo una astro chevrolet 2003 agradeceria su respuesta gracias.
pues un poco mas de fuersa al pisar el acelerador porke esta entrando mas aire , en pocas palabras te va ayudar cuando le pisas te va a rasionar mas rapido
muchas gracias ya le hice la modificación responde mucho mejor en ralentí y en aceleraciones para rebasar o incrementar la velocidad tuve que reiniciar la ecu con un escaner para que funcionaran los nuevos valores.
Hola amigo aparte de cortar que mas ay que aser ? Tengo una Silverado v6 1997 ayuda Porfavor
Dose this actually work I wanna do this to my 2002 GMC Sonoma 2.2 4 cylinder automatic
Sorry nobody's replied to you sooner, you've probably already figured out what I'm about to tell you... As far as I know, they only put this joke throttle restrictor in GM Vortec 4300 V6, 5.0l and 5.7 V8s. I have a Vortec 7.4L V8 from the same era, and it doesn't have the stupid restrictor. I also have the newer 5.3L V8 in my Envoy and it doesn't have it. I think they put them in to 'sandbag' the the 1st gen Vortecs, so they could advertise the next gen Vortecs as 'new and much more powerful!' My smaller 5.3L has 60 more hp than the 5.7 did.
What happens if I just Drill out the rivets and don’t fill them
I would not do that. You will have air leakage.
I did this and i keep getting a code that bank 1 and 2 sensors are too lean. Any suggestions? (2000 chevy blazer 4WD)
Sounds like you might have an air leak. Intake gaskets or somewhere else.
@mossman381 you're absolutely right, I put the intake back on but didn't reconnect the breather hose.🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️ THANK YOU!
@@Psychonautic_Shadow Glad to help.
Why not drill out the rivets and replace with some button heads with a hand squeezer?
Because I did it this way. I didn't want anything falling into the motor so I left the factory rivets.
+Chase Tinsley - Yea I was thinking of that too, but I guess he's right. I am thinking to do this on mine. I am on a Horse Power Journey and I took most stuff out of our Truck / Car. I have a few Vids on my Channel and I really want to do this, LOL.
Drilled mine. Put in rivets with hand tool.
+S4v4geBeast - Yea, I thought of that too, using rivets to fill in the hole. Also, drill it out, if you don't like it. You can always " Rivet " back easily. Cutting would be a one time thing, and once its gone, it's gone for good ://.
Perhaps you would be kind enough to show us the free horsepower you picked up with this important mod.
I will strap it on the dyno tonight and get the results......... You don't actually get more HP. It just feels like it when you first hit the gas because the deflector isn't restricting air anymore. It's was designed that way for smoother starts.
It's not because of more air, it's because of more weight on the plate, likely slows down the tip in. So you might get a jerkier, jumpier throttle but the truck isn't the slightest bit faster because it's not making any more horsepower. Because it's not flowing any more air. Because that is not the choke point anyway.
I was wondering that when I was cleaning mine. They don't' make that " LIP " on the Lawn Mowers and Big Trucks
+Clearanceman2 changing the torque curve will make a vehicle faster. That is what this modification does.
@@xingcho5988 the butt Dyno. as long as it sounds fast it must be. Just buy a throttle plate.
If you do happen to grind down the river by mistake you can put rivets back in regular blind rivets work out well just make sure you have a thin piece of metal with a small hole to regulate your Idol I don't know the exact size of the hole so if anyone can figure that out that would be awesome
And yes I have done this but I have done it with a thin sheet of metal to replace the diffuser and then replace it by drilling the hole to the size around the diffuser you can change the idle of this way and make it run smoother
Potentially in the future I will make a TH-cam video on this
Will this make my truck undrivable on snow? I've got an s10
You have to be more careful for sure.
Motorcycles don't have that lip
Do you still have your Car / Truck? Can you give me an " Update " on it? I am about to do that on Ours, but scared :((((
No need to be scared of this mod. It won't wreck anything. Your truck will feel a little snappier right as you push the gas. If you drive on winter roads just be aware of that when driving on slippery roads.
So u gained mor horse power after the modification?
Maybe a little bit more horsepower but what it really does it make the throttle more sensitive so you can slam the gas and revs up quicker
Legal?
Does it have any effect on gas mileage?
Only effects off idle performance so it shouldn't do anything to mileage.
So after this how would u fix the high idle issue
This mod won't cause a high idle issue. You have something else wrong.
@@mossman381 mod is done and the valve seems to be sticking slightly and taks awhile to got back to idle..... carb cleaner?
@@spencerirwin6892 If the butterfly is sticking you can adjust it slightly so it doesn't go back so far and get stuck with the stop screw.
@Spencer Irwin Might have cut the rivet out in the center, doing this will cause a high idle. Uneven and misaligned replacement of the blade will also cause high idle or in extreme situations a no start.
Will it work on a 1994?
Not sure.
Anyone have a problem with the truck idling at 2k after doing this ? It's only on the freeway and when I put the clutch down it stays at 2k.
That is odd. I never had any problems.
Sounds like I have to re learn my throttle body. I hope. Or it's the throttle position sensor
If you drilled the rivits out toss it away and get another one. Part of the air deflector stays and so do the rivits without the rivits it idles way to high.
That other hole roughly place between the rivets is your idle air inlet.
That's why you only cut the lip off!
With the IAC valve & throttle completely closed, your engine should idle around 600 (or @ least under 1000) rpm after warm up.
When you drill the rivets out, you now have 3 HUGE HOLES causing your engine to idle high. Beyond what your IAC vavle can actually control.
I did this to my 1st 2wd 5 speed 01 Blazer and loved it... Helped me destroy the rear diff that still sits in my garage till this day.
Not sure if I'll do this on my 4x4 5 speed
Will this work on any throttle body
I have only done it on GM trucks.
Don’t remove the big rivet with the defuser it will cause high rpm if you do by accident be sure to plug that hole.
What rivet are you talking About?
@@Ezequiel42o I wish I could send you a picture. Just make sure there are no holes in the plate. You also do not need to remove the throttle body. Just unscrew the plate and pull it out
I did it to my 99 Tahoe after it gave me a po171 and po174 codes it does give a bit more throttle response but ecm detects to much air or too lean so it’s it worth it? I think not so I put my original plate back on my throttle unit anybody wants the shave plate?
This mod doesn't give you engine codes. If the computer sees more air you get more fuel. If you are getting codes you messed something up doing the mod.
The check engine light come on right after you did the mod? How did you do the mod? Did you drill out the rivets and leave the open holes? Not sure how else you could have put your original piece back on.
@@mossman381 the only thing I shave out of the plate was the over lip did nothing on top I don’t know what else I could had messed up
This mod doesn't do anything but add a little more air flow just as you push the throttle pedal. The computer should be able to compensate for the added flow. Did you check codes before the mod. Codes can sit in the computer for a while. You sure those codes weren't older ones? Did you clear them and see if they come back?
@@mossman381 no codes before I reinstalled the plate again I did nothing other than take that little piece off the plate
This mod with a k&n cold air intake plus throttle body spacer guaranteed to see 50 plus hp LMAO
You are wrong...….at least 60hp.
Don't forget the cherry bomb extreme muffler with E3 spark plugs 😃
Its the same amount of power just improves throttle responsiveness. And the filters would do maybe 3 or 4 horsepower and the throttle body spacers do jack shit so.
have you put a groove under the blade ? I did that on top of all the other stuff cat back exhaust to I noticed alot more throttle response on my 4.3 but after the initial jump upon flooring it it slowly falls off
@@_THE_PIRATES_BOOTY_ Where you make the groove? Upper or lower of the blade?
What if you just flipped it around so you didn't have to cut it ? And if needed you wouldn't ruin the whole piece but have the option to switch back to normal if you realised your 4.3 was only getting 5L/km lmao
Would work up to a certain degree of throttle opening then would still inhibit airflow after up to wide open throttle. Still an interesting idea though.
@@Sski85 ya good call on that one! 😂
@@Sski85 just opens up and then suddenly gutless 😂
Snake oil B.S. but ,BUT, if it makes you reeeealy feel good go for it.
what ever you want to do man
Wouldn’t that lip be there for a reason? I’m hesitant about altering something that’s been engineered by someone a lot smarter than me. They didn’t put it there to make your truck slow did they? I don’t know just sayin. I would like to get more performance out of mine too but at what cost?
It's there so when you push the gas it's more predictable and gradually makes power. This mod will give you the power much quicker. I believe GM was thinking in snow climates this would help and it does.
Companys like k&n,flowmaster,msd,
Holley exist because they improve factory stuff. Auto Engineers dont have everything right 100% of the time.
The *lip* on the throttle plate is there to give you low end torque when starting out. When you remove or alter the plate, you lose the low end torque, use more fuel, throw codes, ruin your cats, and your 02 sensors. The maker of the video should have put in the caveat *Do at your own risk*. Now, and even years ago, the maker of the video says that "It is not worth doing and would not do it" so what does that tell you?
@@umarkedreturn8776 get rid of the cats too that helps a lot
@@umarkedreturn8776 you earned a thumbs down for that nonsense.
What's it for anyway to deflect air
It restricts air flow just as you push on the gas.
Designed to give more progressive throttle feel, so more controllable at low throttle, i.e. it doesn't just take off. An eccentric cam on the throttle cable lever would be a far more efficient means of achieving same aim, without restricting throttle body when foot down.
@@matthewjenkins1161 but then it would be hard to modify
ive noticed my 4.3 s10 kinda lags or doesnt respond as quick as i want sometimes when i punch it .... i think this would really help
+milldabeast519 Yes it will help throttle response, that's what I got from this mod on my 97' Blazer.
+Jay DePonty i did it ... didnt really like it tho
What didn't you like about it?
milldabeast519 what changed? did it give you better response or no?
No difference really. Throttle plate was kinda sticking at first so I thought it was a little more snappy but it was really just the throttle plate jumping... coulp3 weeks later was back to same old...
This isn't going to add 1 ounce of hp or torque. That little peice of metal removed couldn't possibly restrict enough air to the engine to cut hp + you're not adding any fuel. + air & no extra fuel = 0. I saw one of these trucks on a dyno once at a car show. It was a 97 4.3L 5speed manual. It ran great. It only had 132hp at the rear tires. If you really want to wake the engine up do a real mod like change the axle ratio to 3.42 or 3.73. Maybe put a Y pipe off a 4x4 on your truck. They aren't crimped under the oil pan area so they're less restrictive. Maybe if you feel like you're rich one day drop $3k on a Wynjammer Supercharger. It comes as a kit modded fuel injectors and everything you need to get it up to about 280hp. Well you'll probably need a new motor too. If you have over 80k miles on your engine? It's just not a good idea to mod it. By the time an engine has 80k on it,it likely has too loose of tolerances. Additional hp will make it wear out sooner.
I read someplace this is a bad idea but I can't remember why lol I think it had something to do with the EGR system. I just know it was not a smart mod 🤷🏻♂️.
This does nothing but restrict air flow just as the gas is pressed. With it removed you get better off idle performance. There is no way this could hurt anything unless you drop parts down your intake.
U realize car manufacturers restrict performance for various reasons on consumer models ?
my 99 blazer runs good just the way it is, so I am going to leave it alone !
I had this off because I was changing an intake gasket so I did the mod.
Running a dyno for 18 years now, I've had several guys in the 2000s do this mod to 4.3s and 350s and it literally makes no difference on a dyno. I've seen a 1.3 hp increase on a vortec 350 once but that was only one time. Just leave it alone. Not worth the time and effort to even mess with it.
I don't know about a dyno but driving the truck you can feel a difference. Right when you hit the throttle it feels like you have more power. I probably wouldn't do this mod by itself but as long as you have it tore apart it's an easy mod that you can feel when driving.
only thing this mod did for me was slightly more power down low and a whole lot of ping. Dont do it, messes with egr and will make your engine lean due to more air easily entering and no more fuel since it is already past the MAF sensor
This mod does not mess with the EGR. It does add more air right off idle. Your computer knows all about that extra air. I am not sure how people come up with these weird conclusions. You have a new ping because of something else you did. Not this mod.
I gave you a real good thumbs down for such a lame comment.
I'll find out tomorrow
I had it done too gadgetman groove on carbureted 22r 4wd pick up drove around took a few highway drives. after 9yrs ,took it off my engine block still has same effect with it on Still great block aerodynamic permanent upgrade changes for the better of course"%:$;$;$%:;$#$)\only 400.00 hammers and I can still do other engine blocks just install it start driving the gadgetmangroove into it. Bigtimer for sure seriously!
dude needs a new cut wheel asap !
Scott miller You don't use up your grinding discs?
Just flip the blade over... no need to cut or destroy anything. Why doesnt anybody ever think of that? Geez
Im sorry but all that extra work for nothing, for the ones that dont know, you can in fact do this on the truck like he said, just stuff toilet paper under your throttle plate, then drill the stupid rivets out, the ENTIRE thing is removed, clean it up and place aluminum tape over the rivet holes...DONE!
Keith Bartlett There are many different ways to do most things. This is the way I did it. I don't like the idea of using tape. I know the kind of tape you are talking about but I don't think it is designed for use in engines.
mossman381 I think mossman381 did best by cutting it off.
You never know if the aluminum tape is going to stay put. You dont want that shit being sucked into your engine.
Keith Bartlett If you do this on the vehicle, you take entirely too many chances of getting metal particles into the intake.
Its always best to remove a part when doing something like this.
That's hacked up.
The plate also has an air orfice in it, and the hole in the TB is larger than it has to be without it.
And metal tape over the rivet holes???
Can't imagine that ever failing...
cutting it off is best method your method is a ticking time bomb as that tape in some point in the future is destined to travel into the engine when it comes loose and possibly doing damage to your internals at very least you will have air going into the engine that is not metered by the IAC valve causing idle issues at very least
ya but shit .
Scott miller If it's still usable why not use it?
L pas m
Do NOT do this... this changes shift points and makes pedal too touchy in traffic.. camshaft and stock intake are these engines weak points, leave the T body ALONE.... smh
Hmmmmm Really ???
u gotta disconnect the battery when u do it to reset the ecu
@@dylantemple7426 BS from non-engineering types. Disconnecting the battery has no effect and will not reset your ECU.
Did it to my 02. Didn’t make a noticeable difference. Whoever saying it does you lying
I noticed a difference. Your truck probably has other issues or problems that don't allow you to feel much of a difference because it's not running that great.
@@mossman381 Bro do what 🤣🤣🤣 My shit is stupid clean! Well maintained. I’ve only driven it 1900 miles in 7 years
@@mossman381 I’ll dm you a 55-95 roll. It runs flawless. I just didn’t notice a change after cutting mine off
Maybe you didn't notice a difference because you never drive it. It should feel a bit more snappy right as you hit the gas.