Very informative steps, (that's going to save folks from some major headaches), that a greenhorn like myself should take heed, and copious notes. Thanks Stay safe.Peace
I have been learning so much from your channel; thank you very much! This probably doesn't apply to this particular video, but I would like to request-especially when discussing wood finishing products-that you go into more detail about exactly what kind of product it is, over and above the brand name and model. This should make it easier for people in other parts of the world to identify a local equivalent (if one exists). Thanks again
Yes , I wonder how to clean such a surface of the fingerboard ( I think it's maple , not birch ), soaked, as the master said , and showed with linseed oil ? The rosewood overlay is cleaned with a special composition from D'addario based on lemon oil.Good. Does this composition clean the very light surface of the fingerboard with which the guitarist 's fingers are constantly in contact while playing the guitar , which is described in this video ? Or is it necessary to use a completely different cleaning agent for this purpose?
Thanks for showing, and sharing this information, I appreciate it! A questions... and something I often find hard to determine, while beveling frets. When exactly do you know that you've reached the point where the bevel is complete, and you stop? Is it when the bottom of the fret(s) is nicely close and flush with the fretboard? Like showed in the close-up, at 8:26 - there's no visible gap between fret bottom of the fret and the fretboard edge. Thanks! Keep up the good work. Have a great weekend!
I wonder if it is possible to impregnate the neck with wood wax on the reverse side , or is the use of linseed oil more effective in this case , and wax is not suitable here ?
The problem with wax is it wears off and needs to be reapplied. Even if the wood is impregnated with wax, frictional heat will, over time, break down the wax. Boiled linseed oil is more permanent.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you very much . Now it's more clear.Boiled linseed oil. It well replaces the varnishing on the back of the guitar neck . I will also read , if necessary , how contamination from the surface on the back of the neck , treated with boiled linseed oil , needs to be removed .I am almost 100 percent sure that it is not necessary to use diluted alcohol , or a means to remove dirt from the lacquered surface of furniture , probably it is also impossible . I typed my question 10 days ago . Therefore , I don 't remember quite exactly what you said . Maybe you touched on this point . I can look it up on the Internet .
@@HighlineGuitars OK , thanks for the answer . I have a question . Here I have a rosewood fingerboard on an acoustic guitar . Is it possible to process it with Boiled linseed oil ? After all , here you talked about applying this oil to the back of the neck , and the upper surface of the fingerboard , which are simply made of maple . Rosewood overlay can also be processed according to the method you proposed in this video ? And , if yes , if you play the guitar , how often do you need to do it , after each string change , if I change them every six months , or more often do I need to , or once a year ? What do you think?
@@HighlineGuitars I have in fact tried to do this but the instructions I was following at the time suggested that stained surfaces should be given an intermediate layer of sealer, before application of the oil finish. I may not have done it right but the result is that the neck does not feel natural/smooth anymore. I was wondering if this "intermediate layer" approach is strictly necessary.
@@HighlineGuitars Every single product was by *drumroll* Birchwood Casey: water-based stain Sealer&Filler and finally Tru-Oil Regular maple neck; I quite liked what the stain did to the colour, and the feel of the wood was wonderful before application of the sealer. To tell you the truth, I have probably been blaming the sealer because I've heard such great things about Tru-Oil. However, I don't think I would have been happy even if I had skipped the sealer and used only the Tru-Oil (which was my original plan). What was especially surprising-and what no one ever seems to describe-is how glossy Tru-Oil makes the surface. I was under the impression that the whole point of using an oil finish was that it lets the wood retain a smooth, nonstick feel. Would really like to hear your thoughts. I'm sorry if I'm wasting your time. Thanks
@@Gsazraetr Tru Oil is an oil-based varnish which is why it yields a glossy finish. If you want a smooth, nonstick feel, you should use either boiled linseed oil or my new favorite Lee Valley polymerized tung oil. Also, water-based stain will raise the grain as it dries which will make the wood feel rough. After the stain has dried, you should rub the surface with some 000 synthetic steel wool, like Nortons or 3M. Doing this will lighten the color, but it will also remove the raised grain and make the wood feel much smoother. An alternative would be to use an oil-based stain instead. Oil-based stain won't raise the grain. Since the wood is Maple, I would omit the sealer/filler as it really isn't necessary.
Hi Highline Guitars! What are your thoughts on a boat lacquer finish on a guitar? Specifically the Epifanes brand, I've seen beautiful results on boats with that stuff, and I think it would suffice beautiful as a guitar finish as well. This is the varnish in action: th-cam.com/video/DRpU_GRYBKM/w-d-xo.html
@@HighlineGuitars Wow. What an arrogant a-hole. I don't operate a channel here so I don't have subscribers. You can either accept the advice or get offended like a 5 year old. Your choice old man.
@@asafpelleh7594 to be fair, I was making a different point, and not directly responding to your comment. There's multiple ways to put a video together... for other content creators, I usually want them to speed up, or at least get to the point. ;) In other cases, creators seem to gloss over some things that probably took a long time to do. Peace and have fun.
These close ups make me want to play this bass, and I'm not even a bass player. The care and experience really show when you take a close look at it.
Me too
Thanks for sharing the details on painting. Sent you a $10 spot. Not a guitar maker but I feel this could be applied to many wood projects.
Thanks for the $$ support. Very much appreciated and I hope you can apply this info successfully in a future project.
Such excellent video. Love the content Chris .
Very informative steps, (that's going to save folks from some major headaches), that a greenhorn like myself should take heed, and copious notes. Thanks
Stay safe.Peace
Glad it was helpful!
I have been learning so much from your channel; thank you very much!
This probably doesn't apply to this particular video, but I would like to request-especially when discussing wood finishing products-that you go into more detail about exactly what kind of product it is, over and above the brand name and model.
This should make it easier for people in other parts of the world to identify a local equivalent (if one exists). Thanks again
Nice I needed that
Yes , I wonder how to clean such a surface of the fingerboard ( I think it's maple , not birch ), soaked, as the master said , and showed with linseed oil ? The rosewood overlay is cleaned with a special composition from D'addario based on lemon oil.Good. Does this composition clean the very light surface of the fingerboard with which the guitarist 's fingers are constantly in contact while playing the guitar , which is described in this video ? Or is it necessary to use a completely different cleaning agent for this purpose?
Thanks for showing, and sharing this information, I appreciate it!
A questions... and something I often find hard to determine, while beveling frets.
When exactly do you know that you've reached the point where the bevel is complete, and you stop?
Is it when the bottom of the fret(s) is nicely close and flush with the fretboard? Like showed in the close-up, at 8:26 - there's no visible gap between fret bottom of the fret and the fretboard edge.
Thanks!
Keep up the good work.
Have a great weekend!
Yes.
I wonder if it is possible to impregnate the neck with wood wax on the reverse side , or is the use of linseed oil more effective in this case , and wax is not suitable here ?
The problem with wax is it wears off and needs to be reapplied. Even if the wood is impregnated with wax, frictional heat will, over time, break down the wax. Boiled linseed oil is more permanent.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you very much . Now it's more clear.Boiled linseed oil. It well replaces the varnishing on the back of the guitar neck . I will also read , if necessary , how contamination from the surface on the back of the neck , treated with boiled linseed oil , needs to be removed .I am almost 100 percent sure that it is not necessary to use diluted alcohol , or a means to remove dirt from the lacquered surface of furniture , probably it is also impossible . I typed my question 10 days ago . Therefore , I don 't remember quite exactly what you said . Maybe you touched on this point . I can look it up on the Internet .
@@HighlineGuitars OK , thanks for the answer . I have a question . Here I have a rosewood fingerboard on an acoustic guitar . Is it possible to process it with Boiled linseed oil ? After all , here you talked about applying this oil to the back of the neck , and the upper surface of the fingerboard , which are simply made of maple . Rosewood overlay can also be processed according to the method you proposed in this video ? And , if yes , if you play the guitar , how often do you need to do it , after each string change , if I change them every six months , or more often do I need to , or once a year ? What do you think?
@@сергейсолоницкий-м9ь th-cam.com/video/xJczli6N7FA/w-d-xo.html
How would the finishing steps be different if one decided to stain the neck wood first? Would boiled linseed oil still be suitable? Thanks
Do whatever you want.
@@HighlineGuitars I have in fact tried to do this but the instructions I was following at the time suggested that stained surfaces should be given an intermediate layer of sealer, before application of the oil finish. I may not have done it right but the result is that the neck does not feel natural/smooth anymore.
I was wondering if this "intermediate layer" approach is strictly necessary.
@@Gsazraetr Exactly what stain and sealer did you use?
@@HighlineGuitars Every single product was by *drumroll* Birchwood Casey:
water-based stain
Sealer&Filler
and finally Tru-Oil
Regular maple neck; I quite liked what the stain did to the colour, and the feel of the wood was wonderful before application of the sealer.
To tell you the truth, I have probably been blaming the sealer because I've heard such great things about Tru-Oil. However, I don't think I would have been happy even if I had skipped the sealer and used only the Tru-Oil (which was my original plan).
What was especially surprising-and what no one ever seems to describe-is how glossy Tru-Oil makes the surface. I was under the impression that the whole point of using an oil finish was that it lets the wood retain a smooth, nonstick feel.
Would really like to hear your thoughts. I'm sorry if I'm wasting your time.
Thanks
@@Gsazraetr Tru Oil is an oil-based varnish which is why it yields a glossy finish. If you want a smooth, nonstick feel, you should use either boiled linseed oil or my new favorite Lee Valley polymerized tung oil. Also, water-based stain will raise the grain as it dries which will make the wood feel rough. After the stain has dried, you should rub the surface with some 000 synthetic steel wool, like Nortons or 3M. Doing this will lighten the color, but it will also remove the raised grain and make the wood feel much smoother. An alternative would be to use an oil-based stain instead. Oil-based stain won't raise the grain. Since the wood is Maple, I would omit the sealer/filler as it really isn't necessary.
In a video from about two years ago you used Japan dryer with the linseed oil. Are you not doing that anymore?
Only if I'm in a rush. That stuff throws off nasty fumes.
I am a guitar maker from Indonesia, I really want to work in America for this field of mine.😊
Hi Highline Guitars!
What are your thoughts on a boat lacquer finish on a guitar? Specifically the Epifanes brand, I've seen beautiful results on boats with that stuff, and I think it would suffice beautiful as a guitar finish as well.
This is the varnish in action:
th-cam.com/video/DRpU_GRYBKM/w-d-xo.html
Personally I know nothing about a bass. I have go back a couple videos first to start the series. It should be interesting
You do too much talking while not working, you bore your viewers that way.
Do the work and lay in a voice over.
I don't accept advice from people who have zero subscribers. When you pass me, I may consider your input.
@@HighlineGuitars Wow. What an arrogant a-hole. I don't operate a channel here so I don't have subscribers. You can either accept the advice or get offended like a 5 year old. Your choice old man.
The pace and detail is perfect... if anyone wants details to be missed, there's plenty of other channels for that.
@@harveyd_5-11under That answer is much more respectable. Thank you, I can understand that :)
@@asafpelleh7594 to be fair, I was making a different point, and not directly responding to your comment. There's multiple ways to put a video together... for other content creators, I usually want them to speed up, or at least get to the point. ;) In other cases, creators seem to gloss over some things that probably took a long time to do. Peace and have fun.
Try thinning down the linseed oil with turpentine, it will penetrate much better.
Turpentine works the best for thinning, however, I like odorless mineral spirts as I have an allergic reaction to turpentine (migraine headaches).
@@HighlineGuitars , Bad luck.
Love the smell, reminds me of when I was an apprentice.