From a friend who does "Custom Cathode reConstruction", get a 'water proof' tub just big enough to allow you to put the tube in face down. Pour in enough alcohol to fill the bottom of the tub to a few inches. What you want to happen is when the tube is placed face down, the alcohol will go high enough to submerge the protective layer. Cover the tub, let it soak for a long good while (some times days, but 4 or 5 hours is 'typically' sufficient I'm told). As the IPA soaks in from the edge of the protective layer it will dissolve/loosen the adhesive allowing you to slowly, but more easily work it off.
Given what we've seen with IPA breaking down the gunk easily, that really seems to be a good approach. I would have also suggested warming it in a lowest-heated oven (150f?) for an hour or so. Maybe even warming the tub of IPA (90f?) would make it work even more easily, but have other issues (fumes).
If you do warm the ipa any make sure you do it outside. Ipa has a flash point below 73f and a boiling point less than 140f. The fumes would not only be unpleasant to breathe, but would be highly ignitable.
My advice is to strip the CRT clean of plastics first since the warm IPA will eat anything in the sight, since it's of course a solvent. IPA or a huge bottle of Everclear, doesn't matter, you just want to make sure you are not ruining anything else mounted on the CRT, since of course the deflection yokes tend to operate at high voltage when resonating at 15 - 33 kilohertzs. And when yoke's removed, be very careful around the CRT neck. Also, if you don't feel comfortable with heating up the alcohol with open heater or burner, try Aquarium tank heater - only submerge the glass part and don't let plastics touch any alcohol.
I was wondering if submerging the surface in IPA would help loosen it enough to peel off. Was going to suggest experiment with the exposed glue at the edges to verify.
Hey dude, Chemist here from the UK who also has a passion for retro, i found soaking in toluene took of the safety coating very easy on a crt i had with this problem, it solvates the glue very fast. it took an afternoon to work its magic, but when i lifted the crt from the tray the mess just stayed behind in the tray, make sure you do it outside or in a well ventilated place tho, toluene fumes are as flammable as petroleum spirit. Hope this helps, excellent work by the way, really enjoying watching your journey thru this project, ime working on a temperamental Amiga 1200 at present, it has a fractured motherboard which ive re-built over the last 8 weeks.
Oh, Adrian dear, with your tools and your grit, You tackled the Soric, bit by bit. The cataracts clung, the voltages fought, But your clever hands gave it all that they’ve got. Though CRT swaps and lines went astray, Your raster appeared, and it lit up the way. So onward to Part Four, with hope burning bright, The Soric will shine in your tinkering light!
24:00 do you run OBS in standard MKV form? Because if you do, it should never really corrupt beyond repair. That's why they don't default to MP4. You're supposed to use the "remux" feature which instantly remuxes to MP4 and takes as long as it takes to copy the file instead of actually reprocessing anything. MKV has the pertinent data needed to decode the file throughout the stream instead of only at the end.
I managed to get a hold of a bulk quantities of UV cured glue called 'K-300'... they typically use this stuff to seal windshield rock chips and attach touch overlay glass to LCD panels in cellphone's. it's optically clear, i've used it to adhere all kinds of plastics and glass together and i can get it cured either with UV light or simply taking it outside on a bright sunny day. that would likely work very well to re-apply the safety glass to the tube.
To get the safety glass off, use a guitar string tied to wooden dowels like a garotte. Then heat up the face of the crt and pull the string between the crt and the glass.
Been years since I played with CRT's like this (Nascom II builds in early 80's) but kudos to Adrian for taking this on, and not doing too bad a job so far! Well done. If you use the old CRT then be careful and replace the protective cataracted screen with something if you can, it was partly included as a cover in the case of implosion/shattering back in the day.
I recently cleaned up an ADM3A that "leaked" all over the PCB. It is a major pain to clean up but I did catch it before any corrosion started so I was lucky there. The additional issue with the ADM3A is that the keyboard is integrated into the main board and that had to be disassembled and cleaned also.
You dismounted the yoke. I think you might need to adjust the yoke to get better geometry. You also have a problem in the vertical deflection it seems, because the characters at the bottom are squished compared to those at the top. Sometimes vertical centering can help that. From a guy who worked in the color CRT industry.
But it clearly had drained already. Perhaps your HV probe didn't have the drain feature? Still a fairly reasonable safety habit to un-probe before un-grounding.
@@Spudz76 You Right. I've been bit a few times too many. Even the day after power down. Hang it up, that right arm is tingly and weak for the rest of the day. Used to do arcade machine repair in my free time if I could keep the old parts. Good old days.
Warning! I've never done that repair on a CRT, but CRT cracking due to heat stress is for sure a thing. I would recommend try heating the CRT in an owen or like DIY green house heated to the desired temperature, letting the goo slowly drip out, rather than using a heat gun. If you absolutely want to use something similar to a heat gun, at least use a hair blow dryer instead of a heat gun, as that uses more air flow to output about the same or even more heat energy but at a lower temperature, which likely reduces the risk of the glass cracking due to heat stress. (My young-and-dumb experience of cracking a CRT happened several decades ago. I had a worn-out TV in a corner, waiting for it's destiny, and I needed some strong light to work on something, and the light I had at hand was one of those old 500W fan cooled halogen spotlights for early 80's color video cameras, but no stand, so I just thought that glass can take heat without burning, so I parked it against that old TV. A while later I heard a cracking sound and fortunately air slowly bled in to the CRT over several minutes. That was one of the scariest young-and-dumb things I've ever done)
Maybe you should not give advice on things you haven't done. There are a bunch of tv experts on TH-cam that give good instructions. It's really not that bad. The heat from sunlight is mostly enough. And heatguns have low settings.
Knipex side cutters. Nice! Since I bought mine, I cannot believe the difference. Only problem is, when I (ab)use them as strippers, they are so sharp that I often end up slicing off a sliver of insulation instead of stripping the wire.
Very instructive video as always. It might not be a good idea to use a heat gun ad a heat source as it might produce a too uneven temperature change in the glass of the tube. What I have seen is putting the screen on its 'face' and use a large infrared lamp + patience for preheating. This is much slower but a lot safer. Also prying the safety glass off is not a good idea either. A thin wire might to 'cut' the glue might be a better option (once the glue is at the right temperature).
Definitely not a failure of a video in my opinion. It checks the boxes for Interesting and educational content! Also: Your viewers know all about technical challenges like the ones you're facing here which makes it all the more genuine. Hope to see this lovely old terminal spring to life in a next episode! Happy holidays Adrian!
I think the CRT can be saved - but there are risks involved. Removing the protective glass might require heating, which can harm the phosphor or cause the screen to implode. But if you remove it safely, it can be glued back using optical glue, or jeweler's glue.
At 12:11 there seems to be padding all around the mounting ring and the aquadag stops short of it anyway. I usually see a contraption of springs and tinned braid to connect the 'dag to chassis.
Noooo! Don't shelve the CRT repair! I'm way to invested in this strange gadget now, and want to see it work :) Thanks Adrian, wish you a few relaxing holidays!
23:44 If you're having issues with OBS crashing, changing the file type to .MKV (if not already set that way) can help you with recovering that footage! MKV is more forgiving when it comes to sudden end of file scenarios compared to the .mp4 container. You can then remux it to mp4 after your recording is done through the file->remux recordings option if your video editor doesn't support MKV natively. The remux option can also save a MKV file that maybe doesn't play as is after a crash too. My video editor (Resolve) handles mkvs just fine but before I used it I was using the remux option all the time, never had an issue with it.
I've seen someone repair cataracts but don't remember who. I seem to remember them using a wire to saw through the gunk while the CRT was out in the sun. I think you need to use an optical cement to glue the entire front glass to the CRT to get proper structural integrity. I agree this should be outside and with a lot of PPE in case of implosion.
shango066 deals with cateracts on a regular basis so you can probably scope out some info there (His videos are awesome btw, been following him since the early 2010's). Jerry Walker is another one
all you really need to do is melt the glue that holds the top “lens” onto the glass then remove it. i’m not sure if you can find another protective layer
When the glue is degraded to this level, you can probably pry off the glass with a few chopsticks without any additional heat. Maybe run a guitar string through it.
Could you use your tester to check which range your spare crt are set to in order to sort them into different voltage ranges and see if you have any that are the 100-300 range vs the 300-600 range
for putting the safety glass back on maybe LOCA(Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) might work its what they use to bond the LCD to the glass on mobile phones.
I had stripped an old CRT tv for spares for my boss, we left the tube in the storeroom for many many months and yet he got a shock ⚡ when lifting the bare tube to use it
23:50 Are you recording to mp4? That'll corrupt the entire file yes, but I believe the format is mkv that won't corrupt the entire file. Only if you miss that OBS has crashed, which obviously nothing will be recording while it has crashed. Then you use OBS to convert mkv to mp4.
So i guess its out of the question if you where to look on ebay for another one. Although i can see it not being cheap. I wish you the best of luck restoring it!
Maybe using a steel string (guitar string) or a nylon string (may deform under heat and break), to remove the front glass could work. I think it may cause less stress in the glass, you just need to keep it moving side to side, like if you were cutting.
one thing to watch when swapping crts, the base connections and heater volts may vary, and some guns use a high A1 and focus volts ,,around 300, maybe more, some low, around 100, putting a high voltage type in place of a low, you'll likely get no picture, other way round it'll 'white out', maybe taking excessive eht current, even risking flashover. with all those wide ranging adjustments in that machine, it can likely drive both types with suitable setting...
It's probably more critical that the horizontal windings on the yoke be the same as the yoke and the flyback are usually a matched pair. OTOH, the vertical windings might not be as critical, though you might have to change a width coil, if one is present.
I didn't read all of the comments, so it may have been already sggested: I've had some success on some 5 inch crts of using a small gauge heated nichrome wire to sort of 'saw' through between the over-screen and the crt face. You still end up with a cleanup mess but avoid most of the prying between the two pieces of glass.
Assuming the CRT isn't worn out it can be saved if you have the courage to remove the safety glass and the bonding agent. Shango66 has done many videos showing how to do this on a roundie color CRT, (and maybe a few rectangular ones). It should be safer to try this on a 12" 110 degree tube like the one in the monitor than a larger 70 - 90 degree color tube. But you might have to wait for summer, so you can let the tube bake in the sun to soften the gunk.
if you're worried about losing your recordings when OBS crashes, the best practice is to record as .MKV. Rather than encode your video when the recording finishes, it encodes as you go. (you might already know this but I often find myself suggesting this cause it's important to streamers)
In the long, long ago when terminals were still more prevalent than desktop microcomputers like Apple IIs and TRS-80s, the CRTs used in monitors were hardly ever "universally compatible". Most manufacturers saw standardization as giving money to their competition. Yes they may want to cut costs using "off the shelf" products, but one would do well to remember that "off the shelf" covered a very long time range of stuff that had been languishing in warehouses since the very dawn of electronics. I, myself, can recall seeing more than a few that had CRTs inside them that had no indication who had manufactured them and used voltages wildly different from what I thought they should use. It was only after IBM PCs took the fore that I started seeing any sort of standardization in CRTs, although even then one ran upon the outlier plasma screen display or vector display that would confound replacement.
It reminded me of Spock trying to build a computer from scratch to calculate the future. Even more so with that spectrometer software looking like a tricorder.
looks to me with the red tinge on the muck from the scan coils is that you're stripping some of the enamel off!! i'd dry it thoroughly and paint it with some sort of lacquer
I immediately recognized the NUL character from my Nascom 2 but seeing the character font I think it too must have used a Motorola part too, which is odd as any old ROM would have worked as well. In fact I was never in love with that font and always meant to make a custom one. Good job on the terminal. Maybe fix the noisy fan to make it a bit more comfortable.
I once saw a cosplayer friend warm up a piece of acrylic in the oven (at a low temperature, maybe 150 F / 65 C? Whatever the lowest setting on his oven was). He then placed the acrylic on top of a mold, and used a hot air gun to form it to the shape of the mold he made. Could something similar be done to form a replacement safety screen for that CRT by forming directly on the CRT, and trimming away excess? I imagine we wouldn't want to heat-stress the glass, but what if the hot air gun was kept on the acrylic side? 🤔👍
Your friend at the start almost sounds AI from around halfway through the clip, assuming it's just been heavily chopped to fix those model numbers or something, but damn if it isn't jarring! Probably takes a British ear to notice though! =P
I once dropped an old amber CRT from a CGA display into a B&W TV, just to see what would happen. It worked, but the picture was really dark. I don't know a damn thing about CRTs myself, but those tubes requiring a higher grid voltage than TV CRTs does seem to jive with my own experience.
Janet Yellen said the dept level will be reached by January 14th. Bankruptcy is their only option. I live in Ontario Canada so nothing goes wrong here.
I didn't try as it would never be more than boost anyway, which was about 400v... So I had the same effect as using the focus voltage turned up to max.
Can someone pls explain how a band round the edge of the crt will stop implosion ??? I mean, imploding is going in first,.., so i fail to see how it helps??
He explained in the first episode. It doesn't stop the implosion, but it does prevent the force of the implosion from rebounding and causing an EXplosion, which is far more of an issue when you're dealing with conventional (non-safety) glass.
Dahm. The blue terminal at 2.18, i had one of those at one point. And as Adrians, mine just started to show a letter (H) all over the screen. Being more that 10 years back, I sucked at electronics , so it was DeBit and DeSouled for scrap. Still remember that need blue serial terminal, I used to Connect it up against a Linux system. Now I could have gotten ideas to fix it !
O is 0x4f which is also an interesting number, but not as clean an explanation as a stuck bit. Assuming the framebuffer uses ascii encoding (but that seems likely). I'd also assume it's 7 bits as it doesn't seem like a terminal which is going to do anything interesting with 8 bit codes.
Adrian's CRT basement. I'm here for it.
YESSSSSSS ❤❤
From a friend who does "Custom Cathode reConstruction", get a 'water proof' tub just big enough to allow you to put the tube in face down.
Pour in enough alcohol to fill the bottom of the tub to a few inches. What you want to happen is when the tube is placed face down, the alcohol will go high enough to submerge the protective layer. Cover the tub, let it soak for a long good while (some times days, but 4 or 5 hours is 'typically' sufficient I'm told).
As the IPA soaks in from the edge of the protective layer it will dissolve/loosen the adhesive allowing you to slowly, but more easily work it off.
Given what we've seen with IPA breaking down the gunk easily, that really seems to be a good approach. I would have also suggested warming it in a lowest-heated oven (150f?) for an hour or so. Maybe even warming the tub of IPA (90f?) would make it work even more easily, but have other issues (fumes).
If you do warm the ipa any make sure you do it outside. Ipa has a flash point below 73f and a boiling point less than 140f. The fumes would not only be unpleasant to breathe, but would be highly ignitable.
My advice is to strip the CRT clean of plastics first since the warm IPA will eat anything in the sight, since it's of course a solvent. IPA or a huge bottle of Everclear, doesn't matter, you just want to make sure you are not ruining anything else mounted on the CRT, since of course the deflection yokes tend to operate at high voltage when resonating at 15 - 33 kilohertzs. And when yoke's removed, be very careful around the CRT neck.
Also, if you don't feel comfortable with heating up the alcohol with open heater or burner, try Aquarium tank heater - only submerge the glass part and don't let plastics touch any alcohol.
But if you heat it, it will evaporate faster than it already does.
I was wondering if submerging the surface in IPA would help loosen it enough to peel off. Was going to suggest experiment with the exposed glue at the edges to verify.
The logo being the top of a beer can got a chuckle out of me.
same for sure
Hey dude, Chemist here from the UK who also has a passion for retro,
i found soaking in toluene took of the safety coating very easy on a crt i had with this problem, it solvates the glue very fast.
it took an afternoon to work its magic, but when i lifted the crt from the tray the mess just stayed behind in the tray,
make sure you do it outside or in a well ventilated place tho, toluene fumes are as flammable as petroleum spirit.
Hope this helps, excellent work by the way,
really enjoying watching your journey thru this project, ime working on a temperamental Amiga 1200 at present, it has a fractured motherboard which ive re-built over the last 8 weeks.
been watching ADB now for over 5 years ! still the most consistent (and best) content on TH-cam.. please keep it up .. Happy new year !
@37:00 you forgot about G1 voltage, being way down compared to the CRT list of voltages... change the jumpers for G1.
You mixed the units when you measured the inductance on the old yoke. The 70 whatever is *milli*Henrys, the 120 is *micro*Henrys.
I noticed that too.
The CRT looks cool and eerie with all the cracks.
Post-apocalyptic movie prop :D
@@katho8472 Or play one of the Fallout games on it.
Totally. He should leave it like that. Out of the case it looks so good! 40:00.
There is no failure where progress was made and knowledge was gained.
Oh, Adrian dear, with your tools and your grit,
You tackled the Soric, bit by bit.
The cataracts clung, the voltages fought,
But your clever hands gave it all that they’ve got.
Though CRT swaps and lines went astray,
Your raster appeared, and it lit up the way.
So onward to Part Four, with hope burning bright,
The Soric will shine in your tinkering light!
24:00 do you run OBS in standard MKV form? Because if you do, it should never really corrupt beyond repair. That's why they don't default to MP4.
You're supposed to use the "remux" feature which instantly remuxes to MP4 and takes as long as it takes to copy the file instead of actually reprocessing anything. MKV has the pertinent data needed to decode the file throughout the stream instead of only at the end.
I managed to get a hold of a bulk quantities of UV cured glue called 'K-300'... they typically use this stuff to seal windshield rock chips and attach touch overlay glass to LCD panels in cellphone's. it's optically clear, i've used it to adhere all kinds of plastics and glass together and i can get it cured either with UV light or simply taking it outside on a bright sunny day.
that would likely work very well to re-apply the safety glass to the tube.
Haven’t been so excited about a part 4 for a while!
At 25:40m the J1 jumper….
That adjust the G1 voltage?
Have you measured it with the jumper in various positions?
To get the safety glass off, use a guitar string tied to wooden dowels like a garotte. Then heat up the face of the crt and pull the string between the crt and the glass.
Been years since I played with CRT's like this (Nascom II builds in early 80's) but kudos to Adrian for taking this on, and not doing too bad a job so far! Well done.
If you use the old CRT then be careful and replace the protective cataracted screen with something if you can, it was partly included as a cover in the case of implosion/shattering back in the day.
I still can't believe we had these crazy minature bombs in our houses, and thought nothing of it!
And nothing ever really happened. Paranoid/neurotic levels of safety are rarely necessary.
Now we have much more dangerous fire bombs instead
(i.e the lithium batteries in our phones, PCs, and many cars...)
I recently cleaned up an ADM3A that "leaked" all over the PCB. It is a major pain to clean up but I did catch it before any corrosion started so I was lucky there. The additional issue with the ADM3A is that the keyboard is integrated into the main board and that had to be disassembled and cleaned also.
Wow I never would have come to that conclusion, great job as usual!
Did Adrian flip the milli-henrys and micro-henrys when measure the yoke inductance?
Big capacitors always scare me, and I'm glad to know I was rightfully fearful of going anywhere near CRTs with a screwdriver.
Fascinating Adrian. Loving this series !
You dismounted the yoke. I think you might need to adjust the yoke to get better geometry.
You also have a problem in the vertical deflection it seems, because the characters at the bottom are squished compared to those at the top. Sometimes vertical centering can help that.
From a guy who worked in the color CRT industry.
I flinched when you removed the ground clip before the high voltage probe... I would have gotten bit if I tried that.
But it clearly had drained already. Perhaps your HV probe didn't have the drain feature? Still a fairly reasonable safety habit to un-probe before un-grounding.
@@Spudz76 You Right. I've been bit a few times too many. Even the day after power down. Hang it up, that right arm is tingly and weak for the rest of the day. Used to do arcade machine repair in my free time if I could keep the old parts. Good old days.
Tá ficando muito legal está série!!!! No aguardo para os próximos episódios! 👍
Wonderful video! Look forward to seeing it fully working and put back together!
I'm curious what the heater current on the amber CRT is because I didn't see any fillament glow. Would also explain the poor emission level.
The original picture tube was manufactured by Philips, on the back there is a PHs marking on the glass.
Dang. Had high hopes for this. Valiant effort for sure. Another great CRT video nonetheless. Thanks as always!
+400V comes from flyback. You can try to add a voltage doubler instead of single diode on this circuitry.
Warning!
I've never done that repair on a CRT, but CRT cracking due to heat stress is for sure a thing. I would recommend try heating the CRT in an owen or like DIY green house heated to the desired temperature, letting the goo slowly drip out, rather than using a heat gun.
If you absolutely want to use something similar to a heat gun, at least use a hair blow dryer instead of a heat gun, as that uses more air flow to output about the same or even more heat energy but at a lower temperature, which likely reduces the risk of the glass cracking due to heat stress.
(My young-and-dumb experience of cracking a CRT happened several decades ago. I had a worn-out TV in a corner, waiting for it's destiny, and I needed some strong light to work on something, and the light I had at hand was one of those old 500W fan cooled halogen spotlights for early 80's color video cameras, but no stand, so I just thought that glass can take heat without burning, so I parked it against that old TV. A while later I heard a cracking sound and fortunately air slowly bled in to the CRT over several minutes. That was one of the scariest young-and-dumb things I've ever done)
Maybe you should not give advice on things you haven't done.
There are a bunch of tv experts on TH-cam that give good instructions. It's really not that bad. The heat from sunlight is mostly enough. And heatguns have low settings.
@@bzuidgeest Or maybe better safe than sorry?
Agree that sunlight alone would be the best though.
Knipex side cutters. Nice! Since I bought mine, I cannot believe the difference. Only problem is, when I (ab)use them as strippers, they are so sharp that I often end up slicing off a sliver of insulation instead of stripping the wire.
Super hyped to see how this one turns out.
Soroc was approached by McDonalds Canada with “Oh hey, we need a McTerminal eh?”, and Soroc delivered!
I look forward to the next episode in this series.
Very instructive video as always.
It might not be a good idea to use a heat gun ad a heat source as it might produce a too uneven temperature change in the glass of the tube.
What I have seen is putting the screen on its 'face' and use a large infrared lamp + patience for preheating.
This is much slower but a lot safer.
Also prying the safety glass off is not a good idea either.
A thin wire might to 'cut' the glue might be a better option (once the glue is at the right temperature).
Definitely not a failure of a video in my opinion. It checks the boxes for Interesting and educational content!
Also: Your viewers know all about technical challenges like the ones you're facing here which makes it all the more genuine. Hope to see this lovely old terminal spring to life in a next episode!
Happy holidays Adrian!
I use a space heater and a violin string to remove cataracts from my terminal, worked great lmao
I think the CRT can be saved - but there are risks involved. Removing the protective glass might require heating, which can harm the phosphor or cause the screen to implode. But if you remove it safely, it can be glued back using optical glue, or jeweler's glue.
I'm sure one of those tech kiosks at your local mall can do a quick screen swap on the cataract display. 😊
Loving this series!
Lets see the cataract repair. DANGER ⚡ 💥
At 12:11 there seems to be padding all around the mounting ring and the aquadag stops short of it anyway.
I usually see a contraption of springs and tinned braid to connect the 'dag to chassis.
This dark "military" green tint of monochrome tubes is so characteristic and seems independent on phosphorus color.
The original tube had PH on it which I'd suggest would be a Phillips one.
Noooo! Don't shelve the CRT repair! I'm way to invested in this strange gadget now, and want to see it work :) Thanks Adrian, wish you a few relaxing holidays!
23:44 If you're having issues with OBS crashing, changing the file type to .MKV (if not already set that way) can help you with recovering that footage! MKV is more forgiving when it comes to sudden end of file scenarios compared to the .mp4 container. You can then remux it to mp4 after your recording is done through the file->remux recordings option if your video editor doesn't support MKV natively. The remux option can also save a MKV file that maybe doesn't play as is after a crash too. My video editor (Resolve) handles mkvs just fine but before I used it I was using the remux option all the time, never had an issue with it.
Bending some fins, almost smashing a hole in the crt 😂😂
I've seen someone repair cataracts but don't remember who. I seem to remember them using a wire to saw through the gunk while the CRT was out in the sun. I think you need to use an optical cement to glue the entire front glass to the CRT to get proper structural integrity. I agree this should be outside and with a lot of PPE in case of implosion.
Seems it was Usagi Electric with cataract on terminal.
Yes, it was: Repairing a Bad Case of Cataracts on an ADM-3A Terminal
shango066 deals with cateracts on a regular basis so you can probably scope out some info there (His videos are awesome btw, been following him since the early 2010's). Jerry Walker is another one
shango066 - he's done a few of them, looks a bit dangerous
all you really need to do is melt the glue that holds the top “lens” onto the glass then remove it. i’m not sure if you can find another protective layer
When the glue is degraded to this level, you can probably pry off the glass with a few chopsticks without any additional heat. Maybe run a guitar string through it.
cant wait for the cataracts repair
Could you use your tester to check which range your spare crt are set to in order to sort them into different voltage ranges and see if you have any that are the 100-300 range vs the 300-600 range
for putting the safety glass back on maybe LOCA(Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive) might work its what they use to bond the LCD to the glass on mobile phones.
I had stripped an old CRT tv for spares for my boss, we left the tube in the storeroom for many many months and yet he got a shock ⚡ when lifting the bare tube to use it
Enjoy this thanks
23:50 Are you recording to mp4? That'll corrupt the entire file yes, but I believe the format is mkv that won't corrupt the entire file. Only if you miss that OBS has crashed, which obviously nothing will be recording while it has crashed. Then you use OBS to convert mkv to mp4.
This has been suggested already; use a safe organic solvent to soak off the plastic. Maybe experiment with Acetone or Toluene?
So i guess its out of the question if you where to look on ebay for another one.
Although i can see it not being cheap.
I wish you the best of luck restoring it!
When using OBS, I recommend recording in MKV format. This seems to corrupt less frequently than MP4 when OBS crashes.
I wonder if the aquadag on the original CRT would need reapplied after the corrosive leakage was cleaned off?
Anyone got an opinion on using dry ice to freeze the glue? It's a common trick used on old cars to remove old sound deadening, which is very gooey.
What type of gloves was he wearing? Did it provide protection against the high voltages of the CRT?
Such a bummer to have no real victories in this one. Must revisit this asap and try again.
Maybe using a steel string (guitar string) or a nylon string (may deform under heat and break), to remove the front glass could work. I think it may cause less stress in the glass, you just need to keep it moving side to side, like if you were cutting.
one thing to watch when swapping crts, the base connections and heater volts may vary, and some guns use a high A1 and focus volts ,,around 300, maybe more, some low, around 100, putting a high voltage type in place of a low, you'll likely get no picture, other way round it'll 'white out', maybe taking excessive eht current, even risking flashover. with all those wide ranging adjustments in that machine, it can likely drive both types with suitable setting...
It's probably more critical that the horizontal windings on the yoke be the same as the yoke and the flyback are usually a matched pair. OTOH, the vertical windings might not be as critical, though you might have to change a width coil, if one is present.
After some awful crt experiences, everyone i see someone repair and swap them over, i actively brace for the pop when the power turns on.
If you leave the CRT for long enough, the front cover should basically just fall off right? Then you can just clean it and glue the cover back on.
There should be a white non blinking cursor when you power it up. Either board malfunction or the keyboard needs connected.
Wasn't there a jumper for the voltage range?
I didn't read all of the comments, so it may have been already sggested: I've had some success on some 5 inch crts of using a small gauge heated nichrome wire to sort of 'saw' through between the over-screen and the crt face. You still end up with a cleanup mess but avoid most of the prying between the two pieces of glass.
Assuming the CRT isn't worn out it can be saved if you have the courage to remove the safety glass and the bonding agent. Shango66 has done many videos showing how to do this on a roundie color CRT, (and maybe a few rectangular ones). It should be safer to try this on a 12" 110 degree tube like the one in the monitor than a larger 70 - 90 degree color tube. But you might have to wait for summer, so you can let the tube bake in the sun to soften the gunk.
It might be fun to explain how this terminal works with no microprocessor.
if you're worried about losing your recordings when OBS crashes, the best practice is to record as .MKV. Rather than encode your video when the recording finishes, it encodes as you go.
(you might already know this but I often find myself suggesting this cause it's important to streamers)
This machine with its lid off looks like Darth Vader with his helmet removed.
I wonder what it would take to adapt an LCD display onto that thing.
You mean a Liquid Crystal Display display?
Why though? Amber CRTs are absolutely awesome.
Can you repair an obscure Trinitron?
In the long, long ago when terminals were still more prevalent than desktop microcomputers like Apple IIs and TRS-80s, the CRTs used in monitors were hardly ever "universally compatible". Most manufacturers saw standardization as giving money to their competition. Yes they may want to cut costs using "off the shelf" products, but one would do well to remember that "off the shelf" covered a very long time range of stuff that had been languishing in warehouses since the very dawn of electronics. I, myself, can recall seeing more than a few that had CRTs inside them that had no indication who had manufactured them and used voltages wildly different from what I thought they should use. It was only after IBM PCs took the fore that I started seeing any sort of standardization in CRTs, although even then one ran upon the outlier plasma screen display or vector display that would confound replacement.
It reminded me of Spock trying to build a computer from scratch to calculate the future. Even more so with that spectrometer software looking like a tricorder.
looks to me with the red tinge on the muck from the scan coils is that you're stripping some of the enamel off!! i'd dry it thoroughly and paint it with some sort of lacquer
If you're worried about losing footage due to an OBS crash, you could turn on 'file splitting' and then you'd always have at least some footage.
I immediately recognized the NUL character from my Nascom 2 but seeing the character font I think it too must have used a Motorola part too, which is odd as any old ROM would have worked as well. In fact I was never in love with that font and always meant to make a custom one.
Good job on the terminal. Maybe fix the noisy fan to make it a bit more comfortable.
I once saw a cosplayer friend warm up a piece of acrylic in the oven (at a low temperature, maybe 150 F / 65 C? Whatever the lowest setting on his oven was). He then placed the acrylic on top of a mold, and used a hot air gun to form it to the shape of the mold he made. Could something similar be done to form a replacement safety screen for that CRT by forming directly on the CRT, and trimming away excess? I imagine we wouldn't want to heat-stress the glass, but what if the hot air gun was kept on the acrylic side? 🤔👍
Your friend at the start almost sounds AI from around halfway through the clip, assuming it's just been heavily chopped to fix those model numbers or something, but damn if it isn't jarring! Probably takes a British ear to notice though! =P
How good was the technology of that time, today it is old but in its time it was powerful😊😊😁
Motherboard looks like hand-laid traces, and they did used to play such tricks as rotating components to allow simpler track layout.
That's one hell of a capacitor
Adrian doing his CRT voodoo again!
I would suggest to remove the cataract and then glue the protective screen back, just like Shango066 does
I once dropped an old amber CRT from a CGA display into a B&W TV, just to see what would happen. It worked, but the picture was really dark. I don't know a damn thing about CRTs myself, but those tubes requiring a higher grid voltage than TV CRTs does seem to jive with my own experience.
Janet Yellen said the dept level will be reached by January 14th. Bankruptcy is their only option. I live in Ontario Canada so nothing goes wrong here.
Soroc --- Coors --- Strange Brew?
Great video! What happens to the G2 voltage if you jumper over r13+r14 like it shows in the schematic?
I didn't try as it would never be more than boost anyway, which was about 400v... So I had the same effect as using the focus voltage turned up to max.
Can someone pls explain how a band round the edge of the crt will stop implosion ??? I mean, imploding is going in first,.., so i fail to see how it helps??
He explained in the first episode. It doesn't stop the implosion, but it does prevent the force of the implosion from rebounding and causing an EXplosion, which is far more of an issue when you're dealing with conventional (non-safety) glass.
Now send the Old Tube To Shango. He can get them Cataracts off there safely.
Make a voltage doubler circuit for the G2 voltage. You just need 2 diodes and 2 caps.
Dahm. The blue terminal at 2.18, i had one of those at one point. And as Adrians, mine just started to show a letter (H) all over the screen.
Being more that 10 years back, I sucked at electronics , so it was DeBit and DeSouled for scrap. Still remember that need blue serial terminal, I used to Connect it up against a Linux system.
Now I could have gotten ideas to fix it !
I'll bet they're not "O"'s but "0" (Zeros) which means bit 000x0000 is stuck high.
O is 0x4f which is also an interesting number, but not as clean an explanation as a stuck bit. Assuming the framebuffer uses ascii encoding (but that seems likely). I'd also assume it's 7 bits as it doesn't seem like a terminal which is going to do anything interesting with 8 bit codes.
If you remove the glue gunk with IPA why not try to remove the cataract with IPA?
Leave the crt soaking in soapy water until the weathers better, that pva will just fall off
That spare tube you installed is the same type of tube installed in an Amdek Video 300