Save money and skip the transfer switch. Install an interlock on your existing panel along with the generator inlet. Code compliant and no additional rewiring needed. I can run anything in my house except the AC. That is until I install a soft start on the AC. Edit: the interlock doesn't allow the generator and main shut off to be on at the same time. I have a 30A breaker backfeeding both legs of the panel. It keeps the critical circuits live as well as providing me with light throughout the house.
Yeah. I have put about three interlocks in. Works great. Allows you to load manage and run way more circuits. I power all of the 120v breakers on a 3000 sqft house with a small gen by just turning things off. But then all of the lights have power and can be turned on when you are in that room
@@garbo8962The context is this video which is still a gas generator which shouldn't be left while running. Standby gen using NG is a whole different ball game.
We have an older Reliance manual transfer switch & the Champion Power Equipment 100519 6250-Watt generator. For folks considering this, I'd recommend the following: 1. With modern electronics, I would ONLY buy an Inverter style generator for your home. The power from Matt's Tri-fuel generator and many others is very "dirty". Control boards in appliances, computers, etc. aren't going to love being connected to non-inverter generators. 2. The manual transfer switch is fine but, locks you into just those 8 pre-determined circuits. It might be fine for shorter outages but, when we had power out for 4 days, it would have been MUCH nicer to have more options. 3. As others have mentioned, portable generators especially under load are really loud. It's fine at first but get's older a few days in. Get a longer cable and put the plug as far away as you can. Personally, I'd skip the manual transfer switch all together having now been through a real outage and using it. An Interlock kit is even cheaper and lets me control which exact circuits at any point in time get power. If I want to power the second bathroom, easy. Most of the time, we aren't even close to 30A of power draw and it'd be nice to have the lights throughout the house working.
I’m installing something very similar to this in my dads house so he can use his new F-150 to power up his home. The truck is a GFCI protected generator so you have to wire it correctly when it comes to the neutrals.
Or as some of us with older systems do. Hole saw your back door (low) for a 3" coupling install with your favorite marine grade sealant. Then your generator HEAVY DUTY extension goes in thru the new hole in the back door, no bugs etc. A small rag to fill the gap. When not in use it gets threaded 3" plug on both sides and is very CHEAP !
Let me tell you, Champion makes some really great generators as well. I have owned three. One was stolen, one was gifted and I am presently using one as backup during hurricanes. All of them performed flawlessly for years. Champion has some really well designed home backup systems that are multi fuel and can run on NG or Propane. Best yet, they are very affordable.
I installed a manual transfer breaker of a different brand about ten years ago. We've used it several times with a 6000 watt portable generator. We have been careful not to overload it and it works great to keep the basics going. We can use the house circuitry to keep the refrigerator, water pump, some lights and the oil furnace going. I have to shut off the main breaker on the main service panel to prevent power going into the outside lines so repair workers aren't endangered. This unit looks like a bit of an upgrade to what we have.
@@serenasmith6412 Thank you, at first I didn't understand your comment , but I looked it up. I will look into getting one of those devices to bring our manual transfer up to code. It was not something I had known of, I appreciate the info.
Forget the hassle and extra shenanigans with manual transfer switches and extra time for planning. Get a GENERLINK !!! ULc for Canada also. Worth every penny, been a happy customer since 2017 and it moved with us at our new house in 2021!
You should look at a GenerLink system for a better alternative manual transfer switch option. A Generlink mounts behind the power company meter. It provides a connection point for your generator, prevents back-feeding the power grid, and also prevents you from overdrawing the generator. All I have to do is turn off the breakers in my home’s main panel that I don’t want to power, connect a generator, start the generator, and turn on the breaker that feeds power from the generator to the panel. The generlink system also provides surge protection for my entire house. I like this option because you purchase the unit and the power company actually installs it. There’s a small fee for this, but it ensures that everything is compliant and safe for everyone concerned when the power is out. the GenerLink system will also advise when line power is restored so you can shut off your generator,and it will automatically switch over to the power from the utility company once your generator is off. I purchased a GenerLink for my home about two years ago. I’ve used it twice so far. Most notably 5:28 during the big power outage we had in the middle of the cold snap last winter and it paid for itself on that occasion as far as I’m concerned. note I have not received any endorsement from the manufacturer for this comment. I have purchased a unit, and used it myself.
No endorsement for me as well and when we moved in 2021 it moved with us! I will never recommend any other option, plus they still make the model with 400 Vrms varistors so we are protected from a voltage spike from the grid. Also ULc for Canada.
Agree, and have one myself. Only our installation was FREE. Took all of five minutes by the power company. The installers had never done one before and were very impressed with the simplicity of it. Asked me all sorts of questions. It's such a no-brainer for a connection. I added a Micro-Air soft start to our HVAC condenser so we have the option of both A/C in the summer and gas heat in the winter. All working fine from our portable 9500watt generator.
I had a manual transfer switch installed when we built in 2005. Whole house generators were still pretty expensive back then. Went to HD and built a 50 amp cable with a male connection on each side to fit my generator and transfer receptacle. That way may generator could be located behind my fence and away from any windows or doors.
What you did is very dangerous and good luck if House catches on fire or somebody gets electrocuted from your suicide cord. Only POS cheating china was selling these dangerous illegal cord sets.
Have a Champion generator with a 10-circuit Reliance transfer switch. Highly recommend the inlet box being outside. The generator is very loud and I put it as far away from the house as possible with my 30 foot cord. Also, I would think that when the power is back, you would switch to use that power _before_ turning off the generator. That's what I always do.
Maybe you are out in the boonies. Are you not afraid of someone stealing your generator? I am in the burbs, older area, not a development. My inlet box is in the garage. I have an exhaust system set up for it. I have taken care of all fire safety precautions, no flammables. etc. in their is an alarm i rigged up to with video monitoring.
I generally don't like "all or nothing" solutions like these kinds of transfer switches or even interlock switches. My home's transfer switch allows me to switch circuit by circuit to the generator or back (even off if I want to). This way I can swap the circuits over one at a time without overloading either the generator or my main panel with a rush of devices turning on. With this kind of panel I'd have to turn off all the breakers, switch from one source to the other, then turn back on each breaker. It's also why I dislike interlocks because I have to shut off everything in my main panel, flip the interlock, then turn back on the few circuits I know I need. I could see the advantage if you wanted or needed a sub-panel anyways but I'd still prefer being able to switch over each load independently. Maybe Champion could make that improvement in a future version.
I think if you’re installing these for people with zero knowledge on how generators works or electricity for that matter and can’t do watts math, this transfer switch is categorically imperative a must. That said!! If you understand the wattage, amps, voltage, gauge calculations involve and know turning off a master is better than turning off a slave, then for the flexibility go with interlock kit.
50A 240V will run an a/c condenser - heat pump outdoor unit and the air handler with the evaporator unit inside. Where you run into to problems is that most heat pumps have emergency backup heat strips that require more than 50A by themselves and there is no way to separate the heat strips circuit from the air handler fan circuit. So if you use backup power on those circuits without any type of load management relay, manually disable the heat strips from the thermostat control or risk overloading the generator unless the generator is 48 kW or more for 200A service.
My goal is to have solar inverter and rack mount battery as my back up. Even without solar panels, my EG4 6500EX-48 and EG4 battery will power a fridge an small freezer for 24+ hours. The 6500EX is will run 6500 watts. It has a 50+ amp capability to do that. Can I use the 50 amp plug with the 50 amp manual transfer box even though the single inverter is 120v? The future plan is to add a second inverter for split phase, so having the 50 amp box seems to be my target. Before you ask, I plan to use an EG4 Chargeverter from my Champion generator to recharge my battery if needed, hoping to greatly reduce my fuel needs over a 2-7 day outage. Am I on the right track? Could you make a video along those lines? As I add solar, the transfer switch could allow me to reduce grid power needs by leaving certain circuits running on the battery, or batteries as I add 2-4 more.
I don't understand the allure of the switch panels compared to just a manual interlock. With the interlock I can choose any circuit in my house instead of being locked into the few chosen ones. What am I missing?
Dumb question, but can you hook up your AC to a unit like this if you are watching your watts? We have been without power and like this option over the way more expensive whole home generators.
Matt, thanks for the video. We have the 30 amp 11500 duel fuel Champion generator up here in the Dallas area and so far we haven't had to use it. I've been looking at transfer switch panels to install, and this system looks great. We may be moving soon...do you think it would be worth installing for resell value.
Sounds like a bad set up! With that much watts, you need to be on an 50amp not 30amp. Reason is 30amp inlets have max capacity of 7500 watts, while 50 amp inlets have 12500 watts max.
Looks like a great product, but I prefer to have a 50 amp outlet fed directly into the house panel, and have the use of everything needed in the panel.
Great stuff. Really appreciated the discussion on feeding the wiring through the side of the garage, vice having to keep the door open. Curious if this system works with a solar grid vice a community grid?
You can't have solar active as well because the power will not equal out properly and it may damage the generator or your solar inverter(s). If you have a battery system, that would solve that, but then you should just go to an automatic transfer switch and use battery + solar if grid is down. I currently have a manual 30 amp/240v outlet setup for 2x Ecoflow Delta Pro batteries and if I get an EV with 120V power I can power the batteries + the house with the batteries. I cannot use my solar arrays though and have to make sure those are shut off! Later this decade I will get a house battery + inverter to go automatically offgrid as needed, use energy in lower cost ways, don't send to the grid when not at peak rates, etc. As for community grid - that would be on the main power lines which would be down, so no use there.
@Matt_Risinger I am looking for a Standby Generator solution that also incorporates an "Uninterrupted power supply", basically I do not want my power flickering as the Standby generator engages and takes over. Do you have any suggestions on who/where I should look?
The only advantage I see on this vs a Gentran type switch is that you have a one button transfer instead of having to switch each circuit individually. As infrequently that most people will need to use the transfer switch I see little advantage. I have a ten circuit Gentran and it works fine. As others have said a lockout switch works well except then you must have a plan (written procedure is best) to decide which high load circuits that you need to disable to prevent overloading the generator. Loads like air conditioners, resistive type heaters and electric ovens are too large of a load for most portable generators.
I'm sure Champion makes great products and for a budget option I would say go for it. But if you are building a new home, there is a MUCH better way to do this for not that much more money.
There should be no "back-feeding", this simply provides two power sources to the breakers mounted in the provided panel. Those two sources are either grid or generator.
Hey Matt, I work for a production builder, and I am looking for better, yet affordable air sealing techniques. While it is child’s play for you, we are moving from 5ACH to 3 without many critical air sealing changes. I build slab townhomes, which are especially challenging to pass a blower door on. Any tips would be a huge help.
Oh, I see now why the guy put his plug INSIDE the garage rather than the outside. Someone could come and unplug it in the night and just roll away your generator! Clever to have the plug inside. Definitely the way to go. So, a little over $1600 for the box and the generator plus electrician costs. That would easily put it over the costs of a whole house stand-by generator which is around 2k. I'm not seeing the savings. The portability is great, but I would think for your house, a stand-by would be better in case you weren't actually home during the outage.
That plug isn't stopping anyone from walking away with your generator. Thieves could just unplug the power cord at the generator and walk off with it. I personally don't understand why you'd put the inlet inside. The only thing I can think of is weather, but they're rated for that. I think you're DRASTICALLY underestimating the cost of a whole home standby generator setup.
California Energy commission / PG&E has been a boom to portable generators and associate equipment manufacturers. Look-Out California, electric bills are going to be going through major changes.
I don’t understand how the sub-panel connects to the main house panel. If you are essentially back-feeding into the main panel why do you need a sub-panel? The sub-panel seems to be a redundant step when all you really need is an interconnect switch.
There 70 years of combined building experience has not been enough for them to accurately explain how this works. There is no back feeding, the sub panel simply provides two power source options for the 8 or so circuits in the sub panel. The 8 circuits are not directly connected to the main panel once this is installed.
That's a nice set up.. But remember that generator sends out nasty power i wouldn't run and electronics with it unless u have a inverter generator... U want a pure shineway .. Keep it up brother.
I wonder how this compares to the electric meter input option... But I think a transfer switch shouldn't necessarily need an electrician. It's a pretty straightforward process
Ilegal in Canada or at least Ontario...not allowed to have generator power in your homes main electrical power. (You can have 2 sources live in the oanel at the same rime).. better to get a Generlink and power your whole home...5 minute install & take it with you if you move.
Amen for the Generlink. I don't understand why it's not industry best practice. I guess manufacturers of manual transfer switches are trying to offload their garbage until people smell the coffee.
@@crispusattucks8265 - Already have a Span and solar, but not backup plans. Not dropping either one and still looking at options as I undergo a remodel.
@@crispusattucks8265 - As I see it, a Span panel means that I could get a smaller generator or battery. That should cost less and provide me the same independence/security.
One could always wire a 50 or 30 Amp plug directly into the box and when power goes out cut your main off and the breakers off you don't want on and leave the ones on you want to power up then plug up your generator
📝NOTE: If you are using a fuel cell generator you don't need to locate it outside as @buildshow says. Fuel cells can be inside. I know this isn't the norm for the US, but fuel cell generators are gaining popularity.
do you mean a hydrogen powered fuel cell? I haven't even heard that these are available for non-commercial use. What company makes a residential fuel cell? How would someone get hydrogen to fuel/re-fuel one?
Honestly, I want my house to be on a Whole Home UPS. Largely because the grid is getting unstable, and with all these junk EV's getting crammed on it, it's only going to get less reliable. So I want a Whole Home UPS, that doesn't use LiFePo batteries. Not sure what, but top of my list is Edison Batteries or Vanadium Redox Flow Cells, as they don't wearout. A backup generator, along with wind and solar. I live in NE Wyoming so those systems actually make sense.
gas air/noise pollution powered electricity is just gross. just get a backup battery and be done with it. They are widely available, reliable, and affordable, and also get gov rebates. Added plus, you dont piss off your neighbor by making their backyard unusable while you run your fridge; wasting gas and not utilizing exess electricity produced since you NEVER utilize 100% of the created power. I use my battery every day, i wouldn't even know if the power went out.
Why would anyone want a generator instead of having batteries for back up? LFP batteries are so cheap these days it is a no brained. And why would you need this silly extra panel? Couldn’t you just have a transfer switch and wire up a receptacle.I bet it’s totally overpriced compared to a regular small panel.
Why? If the door is properly installed with the correct springs, he should just need to hit the emergency release and open the door with minimal effort. Or, more likely, use the back up battery already attached to the garage door opener.
what happens to the extra electricity the generator creates compared to what the house draws? is there a generator with a battery bank that could store the wasted energy to save fuel?
There is no extra electricity. The generator engine governor controls how much power the engine produces to match the load on the generator. It's the same as you maintaining a set speed in your car, you only press the accelerator pedal as much as required to maintain speed. The generator engine governor does the same thing.
Save money and skip the transfer switch. Install an interlock on your existing panel along with the generator inlet. Code compliant and no additional rewiring needed. I can run anything in my house except the AC. That is until I install a soft start on the AC.
Edit: the interlock doesn't allow the generator and main shut off to be on at the same time. I have a 30A breaker backfeeding both legs of the panel. It keeps the critical circuits live as well as providing me with light throughout the house.
Agreed, got a generlink in 2017 and it has moved with me at my new house. We've used it about 6 times, and glad we brought it with us!
Yeah. I have put about three interlocks in. Works great. Allows you to load manage and run way more circuits. I power all of the 120v breakers on a 3000 sqft house with a small gen by just turning things off. But then all of the lights have power and can be turned on when you are in that room
Depends how often & how long you are away. Best to have transfer switch if you are not always home or spend days on the road.
This method won’t work with a GFCI protected generator.
@@garbo8962The context is this video which is still a gas generator which shouldn't be left while running. Standby gen using NG is a whole different ball game.
We have an older Reliance manual transfer switch & the Champion Power Equipment 100519 6250-Watt generator. For folks considering this, I'd recommend the following:
1. With modern electronics, I would ONLY buy an Inverter style generator for your home. The power from Matt's Tri-fuel generator and many others is very "dirty". Control boards in appliances, computers, etc. aren't going to love being connected to non-inverter generators.
2. The manual transfer switch is fine but, locks you into just those 8 pre-determined circuits. It might be fine for shorter outages but, when we had power out for 4 days, it would have been MUCH nicer to have more options.
3. As others have mentioned, portable generators especially under load are really loud. It's fine at first but get's older a few days in. Get a longer cable and put the plug as far away as you can.
Personally, I'd skip the manual transfer switch all together having now been through a real outage and using it. An Interlock kit is even cheaper and lets me control which exact circuits at any point in time get power. If I want to power the second bathroom, easy. Most of the time, we aren't even close to 30A of power draw and it'd be nice to have the lights throughout the house working.
I’m installing something very similar to this in my dads house so he can use his new F-150 to power up his home. The truck is a GFCI protected generator so you have to wire it correctly when it comes to the neutrals.
Or as some of us with older systems do. Hole saw your back door (low) for a 3" coupling install with your favorite marine grade sealant. Then your generator HEAVY DUTY extension goes in thru the new hole in the back door, no bugs etc. A small rag to fill the gap. When not in use it gets threaded 3" plug on both sides and is very CHEAP !
Let me tell you, Champion makes some really great generators as well. I have owned three. One was stolen, one was gifted and I am presently using one as backup during hurricanes. All of them performed flawlessly for years. Champion has some really well designed home backup systems that are multi fuel and can run on NG or Propane. Best yet, they are very affordable.
I like my Champion as well. Served me well
Hallelujah! It's about time someone came out with this.
I installed a manual transfer breaker of a different brand about ten years ago. We've used it several times with a 6000 watt portable generator. We have been careful not to overload it and it works great to keep the basics going. We can use the house circuitry to keep the refrigerator, water pump, some lights and the oil furnace going. I have to shut off the main breaker on the main service panel to prevent power going into the outside lines so repair workers aren't endangered. This unit looks like a bit of an upgrade to what we have.
Against code? How can you be sure that it doesn't backfeed?
@@terrencesauve Like I said, turn off the main breaker. Do it manually, it's not automatic. That prevents backfeed. It's an older version.
@@rowgler1 And if you or someone else forgets about the main breaker a lineman get electrocuted. That is why it is not code compliant.
Interlock
@@serenasmith6412 Thank you, at first I didn't understand your comment , but I looked it up. I will look into getting one of those devices to bring our manual transfer up to code. It was not something I had known of, I appreciate the info.
Forget the hassle and extra shenanigans with manual transfer switches and extra time for planning. Get a GENERLINK !!! ULc for Canada also. Worth every penny, been a happy customer since 2017 and it moved with us at our new house in 2021!
You should look at a GenerLink system for a better alternative manual transfer switch option. A Generlink mounts behind the power company meter. It provides a connection point for your generator, prevents back-feeding the power grid, and also prevents you from overdrawing the generator. All I have to do is turn off the breakers in my home’s main panel that I don’t want to power, connect a generator, start the generator, and turn on the breaker that feeds power from the generator to the panel. The generlink system also provides surge protection for my entire house. I like this option because you purchase the unit and the power company actually installs it. There’s a small fee for this, but it ensures that everything is compliant and safe for everyone concerned when the power is out. the GenerLink system will also advise when line power is restored so you can shut off your generator,and it will automatically switch over to the power from the utility company once your generator is off. I purchased a GenerLink for my home about two years ago. I’ve used it twice so far. Most notably 5:28 during the big power outage we had in the middle of the cold snap last winter and it paid for itself on that occasion as far as I’m concerned. note I have not received any endorsement from the manufacturer for this comment. I have purchased a unit, and used it myself.
No endorsement for me as well and when we moved in 2021 it moved with us! I will never recommend any other option, plus they still make the model with 400 Vrms varistors so we are protected from a voltage spike from the grid. Also ULc for Canada.
Agree, and have one myself. Only our installation was FREE. Took all of five minutes by the power company. The installers had never done one before and were very impressed with the simplicity of it. Asked me all sorts of questions. It's such a no-brainer for a connection. I added a Micro-Air soft start to our HVAC condenser so we have the option of both A/C in the summer and gas heat in the winter. All working fine from our portable 9500watt generator.
I have a 30 amp Champion Inverter Generator with a manual interlock in main panel... Way cheaper and more flexible load selection....
For Y2K 23 years ago I installed over 100
6 circuit transfer switch panel
Better option is a GE 10323r transfer switch
I had a manual transfer switch installed when we built in 2005. Whole house generators were still pretty expensive back then. Went to HD and built a 50 amp cable with a male connection on each side to fit my generator and transfer receptacle. That way may generator could be located behind my fence and away from any windows or doors.
What you did is very dangerous and good luck if House catches on fire or somebody gets electrocuted from your suicide cord. Only POS cheating china was selling these dangerous illegal cord sets.
Have a Champion generator with a 10-circuit Reliance transfer switch. Highly recommend the inlet box being outside. The generator is very loud and I put it as far away from the house as possible with my 30 foot cord. Also, I would think that when the power is back, you would switch to use that power _before_ turning off the generator. That's what I always do.
Yes. Can confirm, very loud. I'm your neighbor and I hate you.
Maybe you are out in the boonies. Are you not afraid of someone stealing your generator? I am in the burbs, older area, not a development. My inlet box is in the garage. I have an exhaust system set up for it. I have taken care of all fire safety precautions, no flammables. etc. in their is an alarm i rigged up to with video monitoring.
@@bcarss1970 Well done on your setup. I am in the boonies, on the top of a hill.
I generally don't like "all or nothing" solutions like these kinds of transfer switches or even interlock switches. My home's transfer switch allows me to switch circuit by circuit to the generator or back (even off if I want to). This way I can swap the circuits over one at a time without overloading either the generator or my main panel with a rush of devices turning on. With this kind of panel I'd have to turn off all the breakers, switch from one source to the other, then turn back on each breaker. It's also why I dislike interlocks because I have to shut off everything in my main panel, flip the interlock, then turn back on the few circuits I know I need.
I could see the advantage if you wanted or needed a sub-panel anyways but I'd still prefer being able to switch over each load independently. Maybe Champion could make that improvement in a future version.
Very timely video. A storm just knocked out power to my house for 3+ days. I need something.
gas is dead. Get a battery instead.
Learning about this now. Have 2 200a panels. Looking at the meter interface but this might be good. THANK YOU!!!!
I think if you’re installing these for people with zero knowledge on how generators works or electricity for that matter and can’t do watts math, this transfer switch is categorically imperative a must.
That said!!
If you understand the wattage, amps, voltage, gauge calculations involve and know turning off a master is better than turning off a slave, then for the flexibility go with interlock kit.
50A 240V will run an a/c condenser - heat pump outdoor unit and the air handler with the evaporator unit inside. Where you run into to problems is that most heat pumps have emergency backup heat strips that require more than 50A by themselves and there is no way to separate the heat strips circuit from the air handler fan circuit. So if you use backup power on those circuits without any type of load management relay, manually disable the heat strips from the thermostat control or risk overloading the generator unless the generator is 48 kW or more for 200A service.
You simply disable aux/emergency heat via the thermostat.
@@D2O2 yes, that is exactly what I said “manually disable the heat strips from the thermostat “.
@@tedspradley I know, what is so difficult about that?
My goal is to have solar inverter and rack mount battery as my back up. Even without solar panels, my EG4 6500EX-48 and EG4 battery will power a fridge an small freezer for 24+ hours. The 6500EX is will run 6500 watts. It has a 50+ amp capability to do that. Can I use the 50 amp plug with the 50 amp manual transfer box even though the single inverter is 120v? The future plan is to add a second inverter for split phase, so having the 50 amp box seems to be my target. Before you ask, I plan to use an EG4 Chargeverter from my Champion generator to recharge my battery if needed, hoping to greatly reduce my fuel needs over a 2-7 day outage. Am I on the right track? Could you make a video along those lines? As I add solar, the transfer switch could allow me to reduce grid power needs by leaving certain circuits running on the battery, or batteries as I add 2-4 more.
Love your stuff Matt. Josh from Australia
I don't understand the allure of the switch panels compared to just a manual interlock. With the interlock I can choose any circuit in my house instead of being locked into the few chosen ones. What am I missing?
Hey folks generator 13000 support ac or heater using 50 amps? Plus the other appliances to feed the house? Thanks in advance
Dumb question, but can you hook up your AC to a unit like this if you are watching your watts? We have been without power and like this option over the way more expensive whole home generators.
Why do you need a separate panel? For the pretty colored lights?
You need to move the circuit You want to run off the generator from the main panel to the generator panel
You don't.
@@raymondpeters9186 My Electrician dropped a 50 right into my existing box with the lockout, like every other installation I have ever seen
@@DeuceDeuceBravo My comment was meant to be sarcastic.
Matt, thanks for the video. We have the 30 amp 11500 duel fuel Champion generator up here in the Dallas area and so far we haven't had to use it. I've been looking at transfer switch panels to install, and this system looks great. We may be moving soon...do you think it would be worth installing for resell value.
Sounds like a bad set up! With that much watts, you need to be on an 50amp not 30amp. Reason is 30amp inlets have max capacity of 7500 watts, while 50 amp inlets have 12500 watts max.
Looks like a great product, but I prefer to have a 50 amp outlet fed directly into the house panel, and have the use of everything needed in the panel.
Would you get 50 amps on each phase…or close to I know you don’t want to max out? Or is it split 25 amp on each phase?
Great stuff. Really appreciated the discussion on feeding the wiring through the side of the garage, vice having to keep the door open. Curious if this system works with a solar grid vice a community grid?
You can't have solar active as well because the power will not equal out properly and it may damage the generator or your solar inverter(s). If you have a battery system, that would solve that, but then you should just go to an automatic transfer switch and use battery + solar if grid is down. I currently have a manual 30 amp/240v outlet setup for 2x Ecoflow Delta Pro batteries and if I get an EV with 120V power I can power the batteries + the house with the batteries. I cannot use my solar arrays though and have to make sure those are shut off! Later this decade I will get a house battery + inverter to go automatically offgrid as needed, use energy in lower cost ways, don't send to the grid when not at peak rates, etc.
As for community grid - that would be on the main power lines which would be down, so no use there.
@Matt_Risinger I am looking for a Standby Generator solution that also incorporates an "Uninterrupted power supply", basically I do not want my power flickering as the Standby generator engages and takes over. Do you have any suggestions on who/where I should look?
How much do they cost? I checked the link but no price
I just installed solar panels and powerwall and I'm selling back to electricity I made $5,000 so far this year
Sshhhhhhh keep the secret to yourself... Kudos on playing the TOU rates at night... If you live in Ontario, by November, you'll be golden!
The only advantage I see on this vs a Gentran type switch is that you have a one button transfer instead of having to switch each circuit individually. As infrequently that most people will need to use the transfer switch I see little advantage. I have a ten circuit Gentran and it works fine.
As others have said a lockout switch works well except then you must have a plan (written procedure is best) to decide which high load circuits that you need to disable to prevent overloading the generator. Loads like air conditioners, resistive type heaters and electric ovens are too large of a load for most portable generators.
I'm sure Champion makes great products and for a budget option I would say go for it. But if you are building a new home, there is a MUCH better way to do this for not that much more money.
There should be no "back-feeding", this simply provides two power sources to the breakers mounted in the provided panel. Those two sources are either grid or generator.
Hey Matt, I work for a production builder, and I am looking for better, yet affordable air sealing techniques. While it is child’s play for you, we are moving from 5ACH to 3 without many critical air sealing changes. I build slab townhomes, which are especially challenging to pass a blower door on. Any tips would be a huge help.
Build the whole building with ICF, seal windows and doors properly and figure out how to deal with wall/roof air barrier
@@billmccance7762 Right. There are no ICF production homes. Production Builder means cheapest of the cheap. OSB, manufactured trusses. Pure junk.
Oh, I see now why the guy put his plug INSIDE the garage rather than the outside. Someone could come and unplug it in the night and just roll away your generator! Clever to have the plug inside. Definitely the way to go.
So, a little over $1600 for the box and the generator plus electrician costs. That would easily put it over the costs of a whole house stand-by generator which is around 2k. I'm not seeing the savings. The portability is great, but I would think for your house, a stand-by would be better in case you weren't actually home during the outage.
That plug isn't stopping anyone from walking away with your generator. Thieves could just unplug the power cord at the generator and walk off with it. I personally don't understand why you'd put the inlet inside. The only thing I can think of is weather, but they're rated for that.
I think you're DRASTICALLY underestimating the cost of a whole home standby generator setup.
California Energy commission / PG&E has been a boom to portable generators and associate equipment manufacturers. Look-Out California, electric bills are going to be going through major changes.
And soon those generators will be banned.
How about an uninterrupted battery supply for the house?
Why not just use a interlock switch on your existing panel? My electrician installed one, it was affordable and works great.
What about what about artful breakers
Why?? An $80 interlock switch provides me power to “all” my circuits in my house. This is overkill to the 10th degree.
I don’t understand how the sub-panel connects to the main house panel. If you are essentially back-feeding into the main panel why do you need a sub-panel? The sub-panel seems to be a redundant step when all you really need is an interconnect switch.
There 70 years of combined building experience has not been enough for them to accurately explain how this works. There is no back feeding, the sub panel simply provides two power source options for the 8 or so circuits in the sub panel. The 8 circuits are not directly connected to the main panel once this is installed.
But why? My house has a transfer switch right on the main panel. This looks like extra expense and more space being taken up in my utility room.
That's a nice set up.. But remember that generator sends out nasty power i wouldn't run and electronics with it unless u have a inverter generator... U want a pure shineway .. Keep it up brother.
I wonder how this compares to the electric meter input option... But I think a transfer switch shouldn't necessarily need an electrician. It's a pretty straightforward process
Can't fix Stupid
Is this just a sponsorship Channel now?
Are you new to TH-cam? Every channel lives off sponsorships.
Obviously
Double edge sword. A lot of data offered and time saved for the chance to learn of new products. Besides… better than any manufacturer video 🎈
Well, if every TH-cam viewer suscribes and paid, TH-camrs would not have to get sponsors. I bet you rarely if ever pay to view. 😂
👨🚀 🔫👨🚀
Ilegal in Canada or at least Ontario...not allowed to have generator power in your homes main electrical power. (You can have 2 sources live in the oanel at the same rime).. better to get a Generlink and power your whole home...5 minute install & take it with you if you move.
Amen for the Generlink. I don't understand why it's not industry best practice. I guess manufacturers of manual transfer switches are trying to offload their garbage until people smell the coffee.
Could this work with a Span electric panel?
No
Just buy a whole home transfer switch with a 18KW generator for the price of a Span panel lol
@@crispusattucks8265 - Already have a Span and solar, but not backup plans. Not dropping either one and still looking at options as I undergo a remodel.
@@zinaj9437 A whole home transfer switch would work. It’s wired before your span panel and after the meter.
@@crispusattucks8265 - As I see it, a Span panel means that I could get a smaller generator or battery. That should cost less and provide me the same independence/security.
One could always wire a 50 or 30 Amp plug directly into the box and when power goes out cut your main off and the breakers off you don't want on and leave the ones on you want to power up then plug up your generator
Against code and many lineman got burned or killed. Not worth the risk to kill anyone.
Save yourself more money and just install an interlock and a inlet box.
I’m surprised to see so many people advocating for a standard generator vs an inverter generator. Can he really hard on the electronics in the house.
📝NOTE: If you are using a fuel cell generator you don't need to locate it outside as @buildshow says. Fuel cells can be inside. I know this isn't the norm for the US, but fuel cell generators are gaining popularity.
do you mean a hydrogen powered fuel cell? I haven't even heard that these are available for non-commercial use. What company makes a residential fuel cell? How would someone get hydrogen to fuel/re-fuel one?
@@travelfeetyes many unanswered questions about this system
@@travelfeet yea I wasn't aware we could get those either.
I need enough to power my 5-ton central air and refrigerator.
5 ton? Do you have a 10k sqft home?
They really need better Designer, they look like from the cold war age
Not a bad option but Champion's home standby systems aren't really that expensive; I think the 200amp one (their biggest) is only like $4500
You have the wrong power inlets in front of the panels fyi.
Reliance has made these for decades now, and are proven..
Honestly, I want my house to be on a Whole Home UPS. Largely because the grid is getting unstable, and with all these junk EV's getting crammed on it, it's only going to get less reliable. So I want a Whole Home UPS, that doesn't use LiFePo batteries. Not sure what, but top of my list is Edison Batteries or Vanadium Redox Flow Cells, as they don't wearout. A backup generator, along with wind and solar. I live in NE Wyoming so those systems actually make sense.
Tim “uhhhhhhhhh” hill
Uhhhhhhhhhhh this setup uhhhhhhh is nice because uhhhhhhhhh it can uhhhhhhhhhhhh
The Generlink transfer switch is far easier. Absolutely zero wiring. Just plugs in between the meter and the meter socket.
Seems expensive and a waste given you can get a house battery with automatic transfer and AC coupled PV connection for about the same amount.
Better to have grid tie solar backup.
gas air/noise pollution powered electricity is just gross. just get a backup battery and be done with it. They are widely available, reliable, and affordable, and also get gov rebates. Added plus, you dont piss off your neighbor by making their backyard unusable while you run your fridge; wasting gas and not utilizing exess electricity produced since you NEVER utilize 100% of the created power.
I use my battery every day, i wouldn't even know if the power went out.
That's cute to assume the power will never go out for more than a couple hours at a time in the middle of a snowstorm.
A bit EXPENSIVE for what IT IS!
Curious..... Is this a sponsored video?
Why would anyone want a generator instead of having batteries for back up? LFP batteries are so cheap these days it is a no brained. And why would you need this silly extra panel? Couldn’t you just have a transfer switch and wire up a receptacle.I bet it’s totally overpriced compared to a regular small panel.
Generator is still about half the cost per kW compared to batteries and inverter.
Your buddy better have done friends to help him lift the garage door in a power outage so he can plug the damn generator in.
Why? If the door is properly installed with the correct springs, he should just need to hit the emergency release and open the door with minimal effort. Or, more likely, use the back up battery already attached to the garage door opener.
Yet another paid infomercial. Thanks Bob Vila.
Make shorts! Don't have time to consume these full videos
what happens to the extra electricity the generator creates compared to what the house draws?
is there a generator with a battery bank that could store the wasted energy to save fuel?
There is no extra electricity. The generator engine governor controls how much power the engine produces to match the load on the generator. It's the same as you maintaining a set speed in your car, you only press the accelerator pedal as much as required to maintain speed. The generator engine governor does the same thing.