I only use steel targets and repaint them after every 2-3 courses of fire. They only keep you sloppy if you don't keep yourself on the honor system. Which, if you're not, you're not actually serious about training and bettering yourself.
I'm so confused at this comparison as it's pretty dishonest. He is shooting at a steel target with well over 50 rounds on it, yet he is shooting at paper that is pasted up? If he was shooting at paper that had 50 rounds (unpasted) then he wouldn't be able to "see" where each round on paper went either? All these people in the comments who are blindly agreeing have no brain. I shoot paper and steel, if I want to work on accountability I repaint my steel each time just like you would re-paste your paper. Also, I don't only have giant C zone steel targets. We predominantly shoot 8 inch or smaller steel which has a higher accuracy requirement than C zone paper. Hell, if you really want apples to apples, buy A zone steel from MGM and then you are good to go and don't have to play with paper at all (assuming you would repaint after a couple of iterations). What a weird take this all is.
For those saying smaller targets, something to consider. When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
I'm OCD. After each 2-3 courses of fire, I repaint the targets. I actually just bought two 1:1 full size human torso silhouette targets, from Challenge Targets, specifically their AR550 Close-Range Rifle Targets. It's roughly a 30-degree forward lean angle and sends the spall down and behind the targets. Tested them out with my 14.5" 5.56 at roughly 10ish yards and they definitely work as advertised. On a side note, bought one of your Battle Bottles and love it!
@EuropaChronicles I agree, which is why I keep myself honest and call my shots. If I'm doing drills that require A Zone hits, anything outside of that is a miss...
@@Knight_of_the_Old_Code I’d love to see a few videos of what your regular training looks like. IMO, there’s a reason none of the best shooters in the world primarily train on steel. They can call their shots better than anyone yet they still choose to use paper targets.
@@EuropaChronicles With certain drills, it's headshots only on a 1:1 size human silhouette target (roughly a 6-7" surface area) and if it's not a central punch or within what would be considered an effective hit, it's a miss. If I'm doing close range drills with rifle or pistol that require A Zone hits to the body or head, only the A Zone is painted white; the rest of the target is black. At realistic longer distances with pistol (25-30 yards), the whole target is white so I can see the hits on target and I keep myself honest on the location of the hits. With rifle at longer ranges, I want A Zone hits regardless of distance and again put myself on the honor system. I realize it's difficult for some people to believe there are those who actually hold themselves to higher standards even when no one is watching. As for the types of training drills, go look through Abner Miranda's channel at Tier 1 Citizen as well as the Tactical Rifleman channel. I do a lot of those.
@@EuropaChronicles And for the record, I don't care about what the best shooters in the world do. They have their reasons for how they train as do I. I appreciate your input...
FYI, looking at the pasters and the holes on your paper target, they’re all biased to the left of the centerline of the target. That’s a strong indicator that your red dot zero is slightly off. With a perfectly zeroed gun, you’d expect to see a relatively even split of impacts on both sides of the target centerline.
Seems like if you shoot steel, it should be undersized. A steel A-zone target for handgun drills. A 2 MOA steel gong for rifle targets. Aim small, miss small. You get that feed back, but you have to earn it. It challenges you and keeps you honest, but the reward is more meaningful because of it.
Exactly. If you notice , all he was worried about up close was landing in the "a zone". Well then buy "a zone" steel. Don't get me wrong , you need paper also. This is no different than saying it's ok to trust a full size silhouette at long distance. If that's true then it's ok to trust a small piece of steel closer. You will know when you suck because you won't hit the steel. Again , paper is good also. Incorporate both.
When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
By only using A-zone sized targets you lose the feedback of the shots which ended up in the C and D zones. You need that feedback to correct problems with your shooting. There’s a reason that NONE of the best shooters in the world primarily train on steel. The only time they tend to do that is when they’re gearing up to shoot at a Steel Challenge championship match.
To your comment about aquring a sight picture just past close retention. My experience with FoF training kind of backs up what you are saying. Every FoF training I have done with pistols, that involced threats less than 3 yards, I cant recall a single sight picture. It was "Oh crap, threat. Make space, clear garment, shoot,".
Exactly. I have full-size silhouette targets and to get the same effect, I'll spray the A Zone white (including the head) and everything else gets spray painted black. Depending on the drill, anything outside of the white is a miss...
I shot at ammo boxes receipts for accuracy with speed with a refined sight picture. six in squares or circles for speed and a fast or instinctive shooting. 15 yards is as far as I can point shot no sights at all and still get a zone hits. Try a 1.5 x 4in rectangle at 10 yards if you can hit that consistently with a good cadence you should be good with getting a a zone hit up to 60 yards. Keep doing your thing love the content.
a zone hits instinctive shooting at 15 Yards or feet? point shooting a zone at 15 yards its like grand master competition level stuff. 15 yards is 45 feet from the target.
@@IronInfidel yards or meters I shoot a lot to say the least, and it help that I’m teaching classes at least 3times a week so I’m constantly getting reps in. I’m always seeking peek performance
I've been a big advocate of small steel targets. Of course fullsize is nice but I'd take a 6-8in for the sound satisfaction factor and still relatively accomplish something, the real acquired skill is being able to visually tell where your missing when you do 😂
When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
@@IronSharpensIron127 I imagine it has to do with the "initial shock" of combat and how under fear/shock you will hopefully revert to training. As most, especially during the years of "conflict" being rushed through training and focused more on "pr" and medical then rangetime or combat training itself. As civilians I want to think we are a bit more "free" in that we can train how we want more often with what we want for our specific environments.
(Very new to guns) - And here I thought I was a loser for only practicing on paper targets, comparing myself to every GunTuber shooting steel at like 10 yards making the cool noises. Great vid! 🇺🇸
Interesting… Idea?… Put a small steel in front of or behind only the paper center mass region. Ding = dead No ding = no dead ? I practice uspsa transitions using two 10” steels, at 10 yards, about 10 feet apart, and double tap each one back and forth. Is great practice and builds confidence when i’m in a match and have no ding confirmation of a zone hits w both shots.
lol don't you just hate when the steel falls down i use both paper for up close as well to see how i am doing. one thing i have not try on the steal is make cut out spare just that area. i also like to put smaller targets on the cardboard as well to keep in in that area
Steel targets are fun to shoot once in a while, I love the new happy medium with the self healing rubber targets. As more brands come out the price is going down. I do have a ton of cardboard targets left over from my previous employer. 😯
Running the PDP Pro SD - got one waiting on a NICS - Noice! Seems like that’s a favorite of yers. amirite?? that trigger has to make 100yrd hits - paper or steel - more of a sure thing!! nice work!!
Depending on the size of your steel, you can easily paint it out as an IDPA target. In btwn drills or course of fire, you can easily spray it or tape it just like a cardboard/paper target. Non existent problem solved.
I never said anything was wrong. Learn to listen. Get better and train often I want people to think about what they are doing. Not just blindly do something because somebody else did it.
What happens when you have different sizes of steel and you are setting up to shoot at steel the size of the A zone or smaller? do you need to know exactly where you are hitting inside of that?
I've been wacked with slag shlag schlag..However you spell it..lmao! But steel does sounds cool. I'm paper and lumber all the way outside after getting cut..A little masking tape to cover the holes... Sounds boring..I know. I'll likely go steel with long range stuff.
Do both, but…You can still shoot steel all you want….buy an A zone sized steel target. Or, move farther away from a c zone steel, and work the same drills.
Just cut your steel size down to that A zone size and everything else is a miss. In other words, use smaller steel targets to get the zone size you want at various distances. Learn to shoot smaller steel targets at longer distances. I like to use paper for checking zero or group size for a particular type of ammo or changing ammo. I will use paper if steel is not available.
I have several different variations of plates. Mostly I carry a sea zone for range work and some 8 inch. Circles. When I want to get a little bit more accuracy at speed
@seanwhitman4365 Awesome! You use a laser. It must be better! LMFAO! There's a reason There's not a single reputable instructor suggests lasers over red dots on pistols. There's a reason that visible lasers are not at all used on pistols in the military and combat. They factually are not better in any objective way over a red dot. Anything you have to say about it is a giant pile of copium to justify a horrible decision. And will do nothing more than to just highlight your lack of training, experience, and knowledge.
*Mike Sills is absolutely correct on this issue, as he usually is. It is well explained and demonstrated. As a matter of fact, one of the most famous TH-cam gun influencers gets his audience a woody all the time by shooting plates. The noise excites them! Where is the accuracy? Who knows! The "clink!" alone will do! By the way, god warrior Bob Keller, former Tier 1 Army SMU operator, advocates exactly what Mike just did on this video. Highly appreciated, Ranger Sills!* 🇺🇲🫡
Just something I was thinking about. Then oftentimes when I go to the range with people. They don't pay attention to. It's really using a combination of both steel is more fun and gives you. Instant feedback where paper can help clean up those little things you may be doing wrong
@@IronInfidel Indeed, the idea is to develop marksmanship accuracy first utilizing X-ring paper targets and, in due time, combine it with developing speed with steel plates. The training should be a practical combination of both target types.
Good shootin' TC. I get most instructor/trainers are full of a bunch of don't dos. Most of them are full of do dos. I don't set much stock in anything they say. Heck, the majority of them can't do 2 push-ups or a single chin-up. My rule never take life saving advice from a guy that is likely to cash in his chips early from to many BigMacs and Donuts...you're welcomed 👍
These are just things. I want people to think about while they are training. So they can maximize and effectively make use of their limited ammo. And money. Some in the comments seemed to be jumping to the conclusion that I said never use steel. I plainly did not say that I just want people to understand what they are doing out there in the range. So they can get better.
@IronInfidel To be clear, I am not talking about Mike aka TC. He is solid. My guess is this ain't him responding to my comment. Nothing wrong with Mike he is fit and has an open invite to hunt hogs with me in Texas. Just to be clear. Mike is solid.
If you are going to compare paper to steel then do it right. You have a "clean" paper target that is pasted up but a steel target with well over 50 rounds on it. As others have said, shoot smaller steel or re paint your steel target the same amount you would re paste your paper target. The only thing you proved is that you don't know how to do a fair comparison.
@@IronInfidel you are always wearing nordic symbolism on your shirts so im just wondering why you don't wear the oldest one known to man or is it you have trained to fight the wrong enemy
Mike, ever think about talking in regards to the psychological effects that engaging a threat causes? We both know the toll it takes on a man, but many dont. Just a suggestion.....
@@IronInfidel paper should always proceed steel training days. If you are hitting consistently hitting 6” and 8” plates on the shot timer you are doing things right.
Steel says "Ping!"
Paper says "You suck!"
People like ping.
Truth
That’s funny 👍
Steel for distance, paper for honesty.
Or small steel for honestly too. But paper just tells you when you suck.
@@IronInfidelcorrect me and my pals have 3 “A zone” targets of steel we utilize we also have some cheap paper targets just incase
Steel targets keep you fast but sloopy and paper targets slows you down but it keeps you honest.
I only use steel targets and repaint them after every 2-3 courses of fire. They only keep you sloppy if you don't keep yourself on the honor system. Which, if you're not, you're not actually serious about training and bettering yourself.
Not true.
@@Knight_of_the_Old_Code That's exactly what I do.
@@peady64 🍻
Depends on the size of the steel
If you’re willing to band aid ya paper ya should paint ya steel. 😳
I'm so confused at this comparison as it's pretty dishonest. He is shooting at a steel target with well over 50 rounds on it, yet he is shooting at paper that is pasted up? If he was shooting at paper that had 50 rounds (unpasted) then he wouldn't be able to "see" where each round on paper went either? All these people in the comments who are blindly agreeing have no brain. I shoot paper and steel, if I want to work on accountability I repaint my steel each time just like you would re-paste your paper. Also, I don't only have giant C zone steel targets. We predominantly shoot 8 inch or smaller steel which has a higher accuracy requirement than C zone paper. Hell, if you really want apples to apples, buy A zone steel from MGM and then you are good to go and don't have to play with paper at all (assuming you would repaint after a couple of iterations). What a weird take this all is.
For those saying smaller targets, something to consider.
When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
Smaller plates can be effective . Those are all c zone
I'm OCD. After each 2-3 courses of fire, I repaint the targets. I actually just bought two 1:1 full size human torso silhouette targets, from Challenge Targets, specifically their AR550 Close-Range Rifle Targets. It's roughly a 30-degree forward lean angle and sends the spall down and behind the targets.
Tested them out with my 14.5" 5.56 at roughly 10ish yards and they definitely work as advertised.
On a side note, bought one of your Battle Bottles and love it!
One of the major downsides of steel targets is that people tend to become too reliant on the audio feedback and start to neglect visual shot calling.
@EuropaChronicles I agree, which is why I keep myself honest and call my shots. If I'm doing drills that require A Zone hits, anything outside of that is a miss...
@@Knight_of_the_Old_Code I’d love to see a few videos of what your regular training looks like.
IMO, there’s a reason none of the best shooters in the world primarily train on steel. They can call their shots better than anyone yet they still choose to use paper targets.
@@EuropaChronicles With certain drills, it's headshots only on a 1:1 size human silhouette target (roughly a 6-7" surface area) and if it's not a central punch or within what would be considered an effective hit, it's a miss. If I'm doing close range drills with rifle or pistol that require A Zone hits to the body or head, only the A Zone is painted white; the rest of the target is black.
At realistic longer distances with pistol (25-30 yards), the whole target is white so I can see the hits on target and I keep myself honest on the location of the hits. With rifle at longer ranges, I want A Zone hits regardless of distance and again put myself on the honor system.
I realize it's difficult for some people to believe there are those who actually hold themselves to higher standards even when no one is watching.
As for the types of training drills, go look through Abner Miranda's channel at Tier 1 Citizen as well as the Tactical Rifleman channel. I do a lot of those.
@@EuropaChronicles And for the record, I don't care about what the best shooters in the world do. They have their reasons for how they train as do I.
I appreciate your input...
FYI, looking at the pasters and the holes on your paper target, they’re all biased to the left of the centerline of the target. That’s a strong indicator that your red dot zero is slightly off.
With a perfectly zeroed gun, you’d expect to see a relatively even split of impacts on both sides of the target centerline.
FYI look at the non pasted shots i did they are an indicator of my shooting that day
Seems like if you shoot steel, it should be undersized. A steel A-zone target for handgun drills. A 2 MOA steel gong for rifle targets. Aim small, miss small. You get that feed back, but you have to earn it. It challenges you and keeps you honest, but the reward is more meaningful because of it.
That is one way to do it. I only own c zone and below but most have d zoen or c zone from what I have seen.
Good video. How about using a smaller A Zone only sized plate so you know if you not only hit it but did so accurately.
Exactly. If you notice , all he was worried about up close was landing in the "a zone".
Well then buy "a zone" steel.
Don't get me wrong , you need paper also.
This is no different than saying it's ok to trust a full size silhouette at long distance. If that's true then it's ok to trust a small piece of steel closer.
You will know when you suck because you won't hit the steel.
Again , paper is good also. Incorporate both.
When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
By only using A-zone sized targets you lose the feedback of the shots which ended up in the C and D zones. You need that feedback to correct problems with your shooting.
There’s a reason that NONE of the best shooters in the world primarily train on steel. The only time they tend to do that is when they’re gearing up to shoot at a Steel Challenge championship match.
@@EuropaChronicles missing isn't feedback ?
@@davidgaines8607 it's limited feedback....
Solid info! Thanks!
To your comment about aquring a sight picture just past close retention. My experience with FoF training kind of backs up what you are saying. Every FoF training I have done with pistols, that involced threats less than 3 yards, I cant recall a single sight picture. It was "Oh crap, threat. Make space, clear garment, shoot,".
Most people who are willing to talk about instinctive shooting know it ends right around 7-10 yards and is most likely to occur in real life.
Just keep a rattle can with you and spray your steel when you do your downrange assessments. Using A zone steel teaches you to aim small as well.
Exactly. I have full-size silhouette targets and to get the same effect, I'll spray the A Zone white (including the head) and everything else gets spray painted black. Depending on the drill, anything outside of the white is a miss...
Spray after every drill?
@@IronInfidel You can. I repeat the same drill roughly 3-6 times and spray every second run...
@@IronInfidelTape after every drill? What's the difference
Great video, but... 8" round steel targets at 7m, 10" @ 10m & 12" @ 15m and beyond
This is another way for sure
I shot at ammo boxes receipts for accuracy with speed with a refined sight picture. six in squares or circles for speed and a fast or instinctive shooting. 15 yards is as far as I can point shot no sights at all and still get a zone hits. Try a 1.5 x 4in rectangle at 10 yards if you can hit that consistently with a good cadence you should be good with getting a a zone hit up to 60 yards.
Keep doing your thing love the content.
a zone hits instinctive shooting at 15 Yards or feet? point shooting a zone at 15 yards its like grand master competition level stuff. 15 yards is 45 feet from the target.
@@IronInfidel yards or meters I shoot a lot to say the least, and it help that I’m teaching classes at least 3times a week so I’m constantly getting reps in. I’m always seeking peek performance
maybe put some paper over it lol
Hahahaha
Spray paint
The spalling destroys the paper in just a couple shots lol..
This is quickly becoming my favorite TH-cam channel you are doing a great job with this Channel I appreciate you thank you
I truly appreciate that thank you
I've been a big advocate of small steel targets. Of course fullsize is nice but I'd take a 6-8in for the sound satisfaction factor and still relatively accomplish something, the real acquired skill is being able to visually tell where your missing when you do 😂
When the military started using silhouettes/Ivan's kill ratio went up dramatically. I can't remember all the details but psychologically it's better training to use silhouettes than flat plates
@@IronSharpensIron127 I imagine it has to do with the "initial shock" of combat and how under fear/shock you will hopefully revert to training. As most, especially during the years of "conflict" being rushed through training and focused more on "pr" and medical then rangetime or combat training itself. As civilians I want to think we are a bit more "free" in that we can train how we want more often with what we want for our specific environments.
Small steel workw
A good training range requires specific hits on the steel targets for them to drop. These ranges are and few between.
(Very new to guns) - And here I thought I was a loser for only practicing on paper targets, comparing myself to every GunTuber shooting steel at like 10 yards making the cool noises. Great vid! 🇺🇸
Paper tells a lot of truth
I like the Birchwood Casey 3d silhouette target . I use 2 inch masking tape to patch the holes
Nice.
Interesting…
Idea?… Put a small steel in front of or behind only the paper center mass region.
Ding = dead
No ding = no dead
?
I practice uspsa transitions using two 10” steels, at 10 yards, about 10 feet apart, and double tap each one back and forth.
Is great practice and builds confidence when i’m in a match and have no ding confirmation of a zone hits w both shots.
Center mass hits are timers not switches. Only cns shots drop.
Smaller plates is a hood idea though
We mix steel and paper on the same course of fire. Also we have a couple dueling trees with 4” plates and they will keep you honest.
Good way to do it.
My favorite part is the ears over the guns. Lol😂love it.
Right.
On cardboard or paper targets you can put some splatter targets that indicate hits like the Splatterburst or the Birchwood Casey brands
Yup
lol don't you just hate when the steel falls down i use both paper for up close as well to see how i am doing. one thing i have not try on the steal is make cut out spare just that area. i also like to put smaller targets on the cardboard as well to keep in in that area
I do the fold-out stands. I have are awesome. Unfortunately, they do not hold steel very sturdy
Excellent topic, thanks for the information and examples.
Glad it was helpful!
Bet you have a sound recording of steel pings to help you sleep at night.
Sleep like a baby
Steel targets are fun to shoot once in a while, I love the new happy medium with the self healing rubber targets. As more brands come out the price is going down. I do have a ton of cardboard targets left over from my previous employer. 😯
I have some of the new self healing stuff. not bad but still need to be repainted a lot to see hits.
@@IronInfidel I keep a can of dollar store spray paint on the range. 🤣
Running the PDP Pro SD - got one waiting on a NICS - Noice! Seems like that’s a favorite of yers. amirite?? that trigger has to make 100yrd hits - paper or steel - more of a sure thing!! nice work!!
It is a very good pistol. And I have been extremely happy with it
Comments getting turned off on you too brother?
Yup happened all over.
We want that thoracic zone / or the dome!! Classic
Timers and switches
Smaller steal helps maintain that accuracy. Body size for longer range
I know
What about an A-zone steel? Aim small, miss small
That is another way to do it.
Depending on the size of your steel, you can easily paint it out as an IDPA target. In btwn drills or course of fire, you can easily spray it or tape it just like a cardboard/paper target.
Non existent problem solved.
I use c zone or small only and if you put tape on steel it gets blown off with the next two round
Steel is dessert & especially nice for not needing to wait for a cold range to go collect paper targets.
😂
I hate public ranges
Just because its wrong for mr tactical multicam doesnt mean its wrong for the other 95% of the community.
I never said anything was wrong. Learn to listen. Get better and train often I want people to think about what they are doing. Not just blindly do something because somebody else did it.
@@IronInfidel the title of your video literally says “Doing it wrong” 😂
What happens when you have different sizes of steel and you are setting up to shoot at steel the size of the A zone or smaller? do you need to know exactly where you are hitting inside of that?
I run c zone or lower. If you run all small steel that is another answer.
I have totally commented on other TH-camr videos about multiple steel targets falling with one shot 🧐
Thst thing took a bill drill then fell
@@IronInfidelhell yeah. The big bill makes sense but when other channels actually use the camera person for the foley sounds. Lol.
Awesome videos! New your channel, very funny I’m also a Mills and my brothers name is Michael Mills but from Washington. Great content
That is awesome! I lived in washington state when I was in the rangers
I've been wacked with slag shlag schlag..However you spell it..lmao! But steel does sounds cool. I'm paper and lumber all the way outside after getting cut..A little masking tape to cover the holes... Sounds boring..I know. I'll likely go steel with long range stuff.
I've been hit a few times as well
you can use a smaller size steel, so the entire steel is the size of the A zone.
That is another way as well.
Do both, but…You can still shoot steel all you want….buy an A zone sized steel target. Or, move farther away from a c zone steel, and work the same drills.
Those are ways to do it as well.
Just cut your steel size down to that A zone size and everything else is a miss. In other words, use smaller steel targets to get the zone size you want at various distances. Learn to shoot smaller steel targets at longer distances. I like to use paper for checking zero or group size for a particular type of ammo or changing ammo. I will use paper if steel is not available.
Things I know
So, your steel is C zone size? Just a bit hard to tell. BTW, you keep shooting that PDP, I will stay subscribed, my Walther brother. 😉
Yes c zone.
I know who's advice to ignore
What does this mean
Shot placement matters
Truth
Wait, get those steel plates with the smaller, swinging attachments.
I have several different variations of plates. Mostly I carry a sea zone for range work and some 8 inch. Circles. When I want to get a little bit more accuracy at speed
Great video
Much appreciated.
Always gas it up🔥💪
You already know!
Repaint and sin no more.
Well repainting after every drill sucks
What pistol is that?
The pdp.
What belt setup are you using? Brand name?
What drop rig are you using?
Safsriland ubl low
Hsgi belt
Please don’t call a pump action shotgun a “mechanical-rack able “ again
This is why a laser is better than a dot for self defense guns. But theyre not tacticool right now so nobody uses them.
Nobody uses them because they are not at all better.
@@RTTGunsGear elaborate? I can tell u exactly why they are better but again theyre not tacticool right now
@@RTTGunsGear i use a laser btw and if u cant figure it out i dont know what to tell ya
@seanwhitman4365 Awesome! You use a laser. It must be better! LMFAO! There's a reason There's not a single reputable instructor suggests lasers over red dots on pistols. There's a reason that visible lasers are not at all used on pistols in the military and combat. They factually are not better in any objective way over a red dot. Anything you have to say about it is a giant pile of copium to justify a horrible decision. And will do nothing more than to just highlight your lack of training, experience, and knowledge.
I can tell you from real world experience from special operation to law enforcement lasers are rarely a better option.
*Mike Sills is absolutely correct on this issue, as he usually is. It is well explained and demonstrated. As a matter of fact, one of the most famous TH-cam gun influencers gets his audience a woody all the time by shooting plates. The noise excites them! Where is the accuracy? Who knows! The "clink!" alone will do! By the way, god warrior Bob Keller, former Tier 1 Army SMU operator, advocates exactly what Mike just did on this video. Highly appreciated, Ranger Sills!* 🇺🇲🫡
Just something I was thinking about. Then oftentimes when I go to the range with people. They don't pay attention to. It's really using a combination of both steel is more fun and gives you. Instant feedback where paper can help clean up those little things you may be doing wrong
@@IronInfidel Indeed, the idea is to develop marksmanship accuracy first utilizing X-ring paper targets and, in due time, combine it with developing speed with steel plates. The training should be a practical combination of both target types.
Good shootin' TC. I get most instructor/trainers are full of a bunch of don't dos. Most of them are full of do dos. I don't set much stock in anything they say. Heck, the majority of them can't do 2 push-ups or a single chin-up. My rule never take life saving advice from a guy that is likely to cash in his chips early from to many BigMacs and Donuts...you're welcomed 👍
These are just things. I want people to think about while they are training. So they can maximize and effectively make use of their limited ammo. And money.
Some in the comments seemed to be jumping to the conclusion that I said never use steel. I plainly did not say that I just want people to understand what they are doing out there in the range. So they can get better.
@@IronInfidel No, I get it. My steel shooting is mostly 6" or 8" steel gongs. You hit that you are Minute Of Hog 👍
@IronInfidel To be clear, I am not talking about Mike aka TC. He is solid. My guess is this ain't him responding to my comment. Nothing wrong with Mike he is fit and has an open invite to hunt hogs with me in Texas. Just to be clear. Mike is solid.
What are those pants?
511
whatcha running?
Pdp pro sd
Paisties for life
Truth.
If you are going to compare paper to steel then do it right. You have a "clean" paper target that is pasted up but a steel target with well over 50 rounds on it. As others have said, shoot smaller steel or re paint your steel target the same amount you would re paste your paper target. The only thing you proved is that you don't know how to do a fair comparison.
You have completely missed the point but your 1 level thought process is great.
@@IronInfidel I don’t think I did. But please, elaborate for me.
why are you rejecting the swastika?
Ahhhh wtf
@@IronInfidel you are always wearing nordic symbolism on your shirts so im just wondering why you don't wear the oldest one known to man or is it you have trained to fight the wrong enemy
Ahh no
@@IronInfidel I don't understand why you find that one symbol offensive but you sport all the others??
It’s even easier if you have a homing pistol with a “laser”
I'm not much into lasers on pistols
@@IronInfidelI was thinking IR laser but it your red dot has NV settings, don’t really need it in your pistol. (I’m thinking tactical not EDC)
Steel is so fun, especially those little 4” fuckers at 20 yards, but yeah paper is where you refine those skills
Oh yeah those will humble you for sure.
Mike, ever think about talking in regards to the psychological effects that engaging a threat causes?
We both know the toll it takes on a man, but many dont.
Just a suggestion.....
I will likely get into that with some others in a future video.
Start on paper, transition to steel. Don’t train on steel if you can’t make hits on paper..
Well You still can run into the same issue of hitting steel and not knowing where.
@@IronInfidel paper should always proceed steel training days. If you are hitting consistently hitting 6” and 8” plates on the shot timer you are doing things right.