I just bought a 05 dodge ram that someone had "rebuilt" the reverend. The crush sleeve wasn't crushed to spec, and the smaller spider gears didn't have the thrust washers. I wish people would watch more videos like yours, huge thanks!!!
Perfect How-To video. Awesome! But, need advice. '01 Wrangler 4.0, 5-speed. My current issue is with the Dana 44-rear. Recently regeared from 3.73 to 4.88. Replaced the carrier (standard, non-locker). Installed new spider gears. Everything went well. All of my "dial-ins" were set perfectly. However, 8 months later while "chirping" 2nd gear, several teeth on the spider gears blew out. I did use the cheapest of spider gears at the time of regearing, Motive Gear brand. I'm about to replace with a Yukon spider gear set. I've been "chirping" during gear changes for decades, here & there. Never had an issue. Of course, chirping is very hard on all the components, we all know this. But this is the first time I've ever blown out any gears. And my honest opinion is, I think the cheap Motive Gear brand is just a much softer metal and is the reason for the blow out. But I'm hoping for your very well-experienced professional opinion. Would you agree or could there be another reason the spider gears would have blown out (other than the heavy torque from chirping)? Also, is there any advice not given in your How-To video that I would want to keep in mind when replacing the spider gears with the Yukon brand? Thanks Mike! Definitely appreciate all of your videos!
I would say with confidence that "chirping" is your issue. You can do it as much as you want....until something fails. Motive gears and not bad gears at all. If you want to chirp, might I suggest a Mustang 😁
I didn’t see the part of your video where you removed the axles. I guess I will have to find a different video to figure that part out. Other than skipping that step your video was good, thanks .
Great thought, but how do I get the carrier out with the axles still attached to (splined through) the spider gears? In order to get the C clips off the axles to remove the axles been the gears, you've got to push the axles in, and in order to push the axles in the cross pin needs to come out first... Right? I'm no expert, so I'm genuinely asking. Is there something I'm missing? Obviously taking the carrier and gears out all together would be the simplest option, but without being able to get the axles out of the way how can I remove the whole carrier assembly?
Thank's for the videos. About to do 4.56 in a dana 30 high pinion and it requires a different carrier. Hopefully the spider gears look good or I'll be ordering a new set.
Awesome video. It's given me the confidence to tackle this job myself now. Question - I have two shredded spider gears. What do you recommend to use as a cleaning solution to clean the internals of the housing, ring gear, pinion and ensure the metal shards are removed?
thanks for the video, was trying to get this all done with carrier still in the pumpkin on the truck, can get the spiders in but spits the thrust washers out. guess ill just try pulling it all out and do it on the bench. thanks for the tips.
Thank you so much for this video. I MIGHT have to do this on my Viper this weekend if the spiders are messed up as I suspect. Noise is only on turns in rear, so should be fun hehe.
Would you recommend drilling a crosspin bolt out if its broken? I seen in the video you daid to knock it out with a punch but I didnt want to damage the threads.
You can damage the threads with a drill bit too. I suppose you could and then use an easy out. If it doesn't start coming out easily, you might add some heat to it before proceeding.
Thanks for that video! Much appreciated! I recently replaced the wave discs and the two conical discs underneath those four gears because the gears had a looot of play making a helicopter noise when not under load. Putting the gears back in place was really really hard, because there was so much pretension on those wave discs... The diff sounds fine now, but I am still wondering...
thank you very much for your work! tell me - is the backlash on the flange when you rotate it back and forth, is it straightened by washers both on the shank and on the satellites? that is, most likely, you need to do a full revision?
Yes, the only difference is that a Dana 44 doesn't have C clips. The axle shafts are held in by 4 retaining nuts on the ends of the tubes. Depending on gear ratio you may or may not have to shave a tooth to pull the cross pin.
just watched this vid, really informative. im wanting to know 2 things . pre-load, is this not affected as pinion hasnt been removed - so diff in the vid should be good to roll .. ?? 2ndly if the pinion seal needed replacing is there any good or bad time replace during the process shown here.. thanks
If you are only replacing the carrier bearings, then no, it doesn't affect pinion preload. If you are replacing the pinion bearings too, but not changing out gears, then theoretically it won't negatively affect preload. In fact, new pinion bearings will increase preload back to near spec. Now if you have the pinion out to change the bearings, then change the seal while you're in there already.
And the seal can be replaced at anytime. If using a crush sleeve, then my recommendation is to get a new crush sleeve although people have had success reusing them. If you reuse, be sure to get the preload to where it was and you must use red loctite on the pinion nut if reusing that.
@@TheBFHGarage im about to change some busted spider gears in a Dana 27 ( 63 stude Lark) .. bearings were running noiselessly so no bearing change - aside from a superclean- hoping to swap spiders but have concerns re preload... thanks
Put a box wrench on a ring gear bolt and then turn the pinion. The wrench will stop against the housing and the carrier will walk right out. Be sure to turn the correct way as one way forces it out and the other tightens it.
Thank you that worked perfectly. Do you ever see any issues as a result of beveling that one tooth on the ring gear? I know the pinion still has a lot of surface area to contact there, it just feels scary lol @@TheBFHGarage
@@Lizard6376 yeah you can take too much off. You really need to take a good look at it and see if you can take very little off or commit to just taking the ring gear off.
My Thrust washer of nissan navarra 2018 got broken into pieces the other one got into magnet drain plug and the other one stocked up in the spider gear inside do i need to worry changing it asap or is it okay to continue running the said vehicle?
Question. I have 98 Tj dana 44 30 tooth ring gear. I want to get rid of the sloppy lunchbox and install spider gears. What gears would be more highway friendly higher I prefer.
My thrust washer got broken into pieces and got the other piece in drain magnet plug during change gear oil, do I need to replace it boss? Or it just okay to continue running?
@@gbouchara technically you wouldn't have to. You aren't changing anything at all except internals. You should be able to put the ring gear right back on and reinstall it. I like to check backlash before and after out of habit just to make sure I reinstalled it correctly.
Taking just enough tooth to remove a crosspin is a very common practice. It allows for a quick spider gear change. If you take the ring gear off, you can alter the pattern which could potentially create issues. In addition, ring gear bolts are designed for one time use which would require buying a new set and going through the install process. Some people opt to re-use ring gear bolts, and have experienced success. I'm just not one of them. If I'm in there, I'm doing it to where I don't have to worry about it.
I have a ford 9.75" I'm rebuilding. Got the gears out no probs and replaced the clutches and belleville washers. Now I can't shove them back in. It's like the belleville washers are making just too much load and I can't freely spin the gears back in like you did. Not sure what to do to make these spin back in.
Mine are 2 teeths on each sides so i have to remove the big wheel.. Can i put the same bolts in ? And do i have to measure it? I waited 3 weeks for parts in hawaii . I need the car ready next week . What can i do ?
@@worldfitnesstrainerradekve9234 yes you can remove the big wheel (ring gear). Yes you can reuse bolts BUT, you must clean them AND the ring gear thoroughly with brakleen. Then you must use red loctite when you put them back in. Be sure to torque the ring gear bolts to the spec of the axle. No need to measure if this is all you are doing.
Can i use blue lock title? I need to figure out how to loses and tighten the bolts i im in regular home garage not special tools . Any idea the spec to tight the bolts? I have exactly same differential as yours from jeep wrangler 2017 DANA 44 unlimited sahara . Thank you 🙏
Just took it apart and ordered the wrong spider gears ⚙️ 🙈 mine has Trac Lok carrier posi 30 it’s $600 on eBay just the spider gears but the whole assembly it’s half price but then need press the bearings. So another issue don’t have press unlessI can hit it with a hammer then not sure if the previous shims fits ..
In addition to time, ring gear bolts are designed as a one time use bolt. Additional cost for new bolts. Also removing the ring gear can alter the pattern ever so slightly. Some people have good luck with red loctite when re-using the ring gear bolts. It's just not worth the chance for me to risk things falling apart later on.
@@monteboy87 You have to be patient when inserting them...make sure they are directly behind the gears as you rotate them in. What do you mean are they selectable?
@@TheBFHGarage no, should be, I don't see any damage. The spider gears are from Summit Racing and seem visually to be very similar, but just really... Really tight.
@@TheBFHGarageThe spider gears arrived in a bag with gear oil over all of the parts, so I believe that lubrication wasn't the problem. I will post updates as I resolve this, so anyone else who has this problem can learn. I do appreciate your responses.
A little history; this Jeep was stuck in the driver's side front corner, basically on the wheel. The axle tubes are out of alignment with each other, the lower control arm mount was smashed over ( I'll be replacing those), the front drive shaft is bent, and the axle tubes are leaking fluid. The spider gears were tearing themselves up due to the axle misalignment and I'm wondering if the carrier is tweaked, but I just can't see it.
Im working on my 02 suburban 1500 rear wheel drive. I have the carrier unbolted, but no shimmy or wiggle to pull out, do I need to have the truck in neutral??
@Angel Benavides I just want to confirm that you're trying to remove the carrier from the housing. If that is the case then put a box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and turn the pinion or drive shaft until the carrier starts to walk out. It will be one way or the other. Be sure somebody's there to catch the carrier and the shim so they don't fall out because you don't want to mix up your shims! Go to my video "how to Re-Gear a Dana 30" and then go to the 2 minute mark. It will show you what I'm talking about.
I'm trying to replace my spider gears on my 99 silverado 1500, and for some reason the new ones won't go in, it's like they're slightly too big for some reason. Any ideas as to why? Am I going to have to get a slightly larger carrier for them?
As long as you are sure you purchased the correct spiders for your truck, they should fit. There isn't a "slightly larger" carrier. Installing new spider gears can be a pain in the@$$ sometimes. Try rotating them as you are working them in. The thrust washers need to roll right in with them. It is almost like a puzzle sometimes trying to figure out what it takes to get them to go in. Keep at it and good luck!
@@TheBFHGarage Huh, weird because the gears I got came directly from another 99 silverado 1500 rear end, and they fit into that one just fine. What causing the problem is that the side gears, the ones connected to the axles are slightly taller than the older ones when I set em base down. I don't know why they fit just fine in the other one, but not mine.
@@SgtAwesome97 I thought you bought new gears. if you are using used spiders then make sure it has the exact same axle and carrier. All bets are off using used gears unless they come out of the exact same donor axle. if one has limited slip and the other doesn't, that could be an issue although I've never run into that problem. How many years did silverado run? slight changes between them all, but not sure about axles.
@@TheBFHGarage They're both limited slip differentials. Internally they look exactly the same, minus the fact that 75% of my old ones gear teeth were turned into metal shavings and pieces. I just don't get why the gears fit into the new one fine and not into mine. It's from the exact same make, model, and year of truck.
WoW! You are 100% correct! I didn't even catch that until after reading your comment and viewing the video again. Obviously, it's best to reinstall them in the same locations in which they came from but I'm curious as to how critical it is to do so. Mike...? Any input on this matter?
Finally, thank you for showing the whole process. Every video I've watched was only showing how to take the cross pin out. So glad I found this video.
The reassembly part of the spider gears was the exact thing that I needed to see to get mine back together. Thank you.
Wow, you made this look easy. Thanks for the demonstration!
I just bought a 05 dodge ram that someone had "rebuilt" the reverend. The crush sleeve wasn't crushed to spec, and the smaller spider gears didn't have the thrust washers. I wish people would watch more videos like yours, huge thanks!!!
That's part of the reason I make these videos!
Thank you for this video one of the most informative I've seen
Thank you for posting this video. You just made this job way less scary for me.
Perfect How-To video. Awesome! But, need advice. '01 Wrangler 4.0, 5-speed. My current issue is with the Dana 44-rear. Recently regeared from 3.73 to 4.88. Replaced the carrier (standard, non-locker). Installed new spider gears. Everything went well. All of my "dial-ins" were set perfectly. However, 8 months later while "chirping" 2nd gear, several teeth on the spider gears blew out. I did use the cheapest of spider gears at the time of regearing, Motive Gear brand. I'm about to replace with a Yukon spider gear set. I've been "chirping" during gear changes for decades, here & there. Never had an issue. Of course, chirping is very hard on all the components, we all know this. But this is the first time I've ever blown out any gears. And my honest opinion is, I think the cheap Motive Gear brand is just a much softer metal and is the reason for the blow out. But I'm hoping for your very well-experienced professional opinion. Would you agree or could there be another reason the spider gears would have blown out (other than the heavy torque from chirping)? Also, is there any advice not given in your How-To video that I would want to keep in mind when replacing the spider gears with the Yukon brand? Thanks Mike! Definitely appreciate all of your videos!
I would say with confidence that "chirping" is your issue. You can do it as much as you want....until something fails. Motive gears and not bad gears at all. If you want to chirp, might I suggest a Mustang 😁
I didn’t see the part of your video where you removed the axles. I guess I will have to find a different video to figure that part out. Other than skipping that step your video was good, thanks .
All are different depending on the diff. Some unbolt from outside the diff, some are C clips, some are all external halfshafts, et cetera.
Great thought, but how do I get the carrier out with the axles still attached to (splined through) the spider gears? In order to get the C clips off the axles to remove the axles been the gears, you've got to push the axles in, and in order to push the axles in the cross pin needs to come out first... Right? I'm no expert, so I'm genuinely asking. Is there something I'm missing? Obviously taking the carrier and gears out all together would be the simplest option, but without being able to get the axles out of the way how can I remove the whole carrier assembly?
Thank's for the videos. About to do 4.56 in a dana 30 high pinion and it requires a different carrier. Hopefully the spider gears look good or I'll be ordering a new set.
Awesome video. It's given me the confidence to tackle this job myself now.
Question - I have two shredded spider gears. What do you recommend to use as a cleaning solution to clean the internals of the housing, ring gear, pinion and ensure the metal shards are removed?
I use regular good ol' brakleen.
@@TheBFHGarage 👍
thanks for the video, was trying to get this all done with carrier still in the pumpkin on the truck, can get the spiders in but spits the thrust washers out. guess ill just try pulling it all out and do it on the bench. thanks for the tips.
Awesome content ! I’m always learning from you.
Thank you so much for this video. I MIGHT have to do this on my Viper this weekend if the spiders are messed up as I suspect. Noise is only on turns in rear, so should be fun hehe.
Really nice video...Thanks!!. Are those spider gears the same for both rear and front DANA 30 differentials??
No
great video. What is typical side gear shim clearance? Thank you.
I haven't ever seen one the same.
Thanks dude that's a big help
Would you recommend drilling a crosspin bolt out if its broken? I seen in the video you daid to knock it out with a punch but I didnt want to damage the threads.
You can damage the threads with a drill bit too. I suppose you could and then use an easy out. If it doesn't start coming out easily, you might add some heat to it before proceeding.
Thanks for that video! Much appreciated! I recently replaced the wave discs and the two conical discs underneath those four gears because the gears had a looot of play making a helicopter noise when not under load. Putting the gears back in place was really really hard, because there was so much pretension on those wave discs... The diff sounds fine now, but I am still wondering...
Thank you for the video!!
thank you very much for your work! tell me - is the backlash on the flange when you rotate it back and forth, is it straightened by washers both on the shank and on the satellites? that is, most likely, you need to do a full revision?
I don't quite understand your question....
Not that it matters but, wouldn't it be the inside wheel that chirps when driving around a corner?
How do you get that thing out with your screwdriver
Great video just subscribed
Thanks brother
Does this work the same for a dana 44?
Yes, the only difference is that a Dana 44 doesn't have C clips. The axle shafts are held in by 4 retaining nuts on the ends of the tubes. Depending on gear ratio you may or may not have to shave a tooth to pull the cross pin.
@@TheBFHGarage I appreciate it! Thanks!
just watched this vid, really informative. im wanting to know 2 things . pre-load, is this not affected as pinion hasnt been removed - so diff in the vid should be good to roll .. ?? 2ndly if the pinion seal needed replacing is there any good or bad time replace during the process shown here.. thanks
If you are only replacing the carrier bearings, then no, it doesn't affect pinion preload. If you are replacing the pinion bearings too, but not changing out gears, then theoretically it won't negatively affect preload. In fact, new pinion bearings will increase preload back to near spec. Now if you have the pinion out to change the bearings, then change the seal while you're in there already.
And the seal can be replaced at anytime. If using a crush sleeve, then my recommendation is to get a new crush sleeve although people have had success reusing them. If you reuse, be sure to get the preload to where it was and you must use red loctite on the pinion nut if reusing that.
@@TheBFHGarage im about to change some busted spider gears in a Dana 27 ( 63 stude Lark) .. bearings were running noiselessly so no bearing change - aside from a superclean- hoping to swap spiders but have concerns re preload... thanks
@@TheBFHGarage perfect thanks
What is this "Wrench trick" you speak of? Mine has a lot of preload keeping it in the housing
Put a box wrench on a ring gear bolt and then turn the pinion. The wrench will stop against the housing and the carrier will walk right out. Be sure to turn the correct way as one way forces it out and the other tightens it.
Thank you that worked perfectly.
Do you ever see any issues as a result of beveling that one tooth on the ring gear? I know the pinion still has a lot of surface area to contact there, it just feels scary lol @@TheBFHGarage
@@Lizard6376 yeah you can take too much off. You really need to take a good look at it and see if you can take very little off or commit to just taking the ring gear off.
My Thrust washer of nissan navarra 2018 got broken into pieces the other one got into magnet drain plug and the other one stocked up in the spider gear inside do i need to worry changing it asap or is it okay to continue running the said vehicle?
That won't last long at all.
If my carrier and those bearing caps were gone can I buy replacement caps and buy a carrier and install them it's a dana7o 2wd thank you?
No. The bearing caps are specific to the housing. They are machined with the housing. If you have no caps, you need a new axle.
Question. I have 98 Tj dana 44 30 tooth ring gear. I want to get rid of the sloppy lunchbox and install spider gears. What gears would be more highway friendly higher I prefer.
My thrust washers won’t go in no matter what I do. Any advice?
Put them in place on the spider gears and roll the gear in place. It's sometimes impossible to slide the thrust washer with gear not exposed.
My thrust washer got broken into pieces and got the other piece in drain magnet plug during change gear oil, do I need to replace it boss? Or it just okay to continue running?
Amazing Videos!, to change the spider gears on arb locker carrier is the same procedure?
No. To change out ARB internals you have to pull the locker out and remove the ring gear.
@@gbouchara I would just to be sure I reinstalled it correctly.
3 minutes ago
If I remove the gear, I will have to measure backlash when reinstalling the locker in the differential right?
@@gbouchara technically you wouldn't have to. You aren't changing anything at all except internals. You should be able to put the ring gear right back on and reinstall it. I like to check backlash before and after out of habit just to make sure I reinstalled it correctly.
Thank you so much! I am going to watch the video on how to use the tools 😀👍
Those spider gears at shrapnal from a diff going out
Curious why you would grind down a gear tooth instead of remove the ring gear?
Taking just enough tooth to remove a crosspin is a very common practice. It allows for a quick spider gear change. If you take the ring gear off, you can alter the pattern which could potentially create issues. In addition, ring gear bolts are designed for one time use which would require buying a new set and going through the install process. Some people opt to re-use ring gear bolts, and have experienced success. I'm just not one of them. If I'm in there, I'm doing it to where I don't have to worry about it.
I have a ford 9.75" I'm rebuilding. Got the gears out no probs and replaced the clutches and belleville washers. Now I can't shove them back in. It's like the belleville washers are making just too much load and I can't freely spin the gears back in like you did. Not sure what to do to make these spin back in.
limited slip vs. open carrier
Mine are 2 teeths on each sides so i have to remove the big wheel..
Can i put the same bolts in ? And do i have to measure it? I waited 3 weeks for parts in hawaii . I need the car ready next week . What can i do ?
@@worldfitnesstrainerradekve9234 yes you can remove the big wheel (ring gear). Yes you can reuse bolts BUT, you must clean them AND the ring gear thoroughly with brakleen. Then you must use red loctite when you put them back in. Be sure to torque the ring gear bolts to the spec of the axle. No need to measure if this is all you are doing.
Can i use blue lock title? I need to figure out how to loses and tighten the bolts i im in regular home garage not special tools . Any idea the spec to tight the bolts? I have exactly same differential as yours from jeep wrangler 2017 DANA 44 unlimited sahara .
Thank you 🙏
Just took it apart and ordered the wrong spider gears ⚙️ 🙈 mine has Trac Lok carrier posi 30 it’s $600 on eBay just the spider gears but the whole assembly it’s half price but then need press the bearings. So another issue don’t have press unlessI can hit it with a hammer then not sure if the previous shims fits ..
Do you have to adjust backlash being that you didn't remove the pinion gear. I'm replacing mine with a direct oem fit upgraded differential.
If all you're doing is changing spider gears, then no. But if you are changing gears too then yes.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you . Appreciate the response.
Can one change the bearings? Should we ?
Why not? 🤷
Hai sir, axle what is this?
I think it was a Dana 30 or Dana 35....I can't remember.
Do you have to do anything with preload if you're only putting in new spider gears / thrust washers?
Nope. Replace spiders and you're good to go.
@@TheBFHGarage you rock, thanks man
Any reason besides time, to not just unbolt the ring gear from the carrier rather than dremel the tooth down?
In addition to time, ring gear bolts are designed as a one time use bolt. Additional cost for new bolts. Also removing the ring gear can alter the pattern ever so slightly. Some people have good luck with red loctite when re-using the ring gear bolts. It's just not worth the chance for me to risk things falling apart later on.
@@TheBFHGarage That makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to reply :D
How far in am I supposed to hit that pin in there?
Hold it on the outside at the pin and it will show you
@@TheBFHGarage thank you man
04 envoy pin replacement
How are you able to get the spider gears in with such ease? It's a really tight fit and those washers behind them are super hard to keep in place.
Put them in from the open sides and then rotate the gears. The thrust washers you just have to work them in.
Mine keeps spitting them out. They are chewed up pretty bad now. Where do you source new ones? Are they selectable?
@@monteboy87 You have to be patient when inserting them...make sure they are directly behind the gears as you rotate them in. What do you mean are they selectable?
will the prosses be the same for a 2015 dana 44?
The process is virtually the same but you will most likely have to remove the ring gear.
@@TheBFHGarage stupid question why the ring gear removel.
@@robertfrancisco1193 thick cut gears may be too thick to allow the cross pin to come out.
@@TheBFHGarage ok thanks trying to get enough info before i start the job
My spider gears broke some teeth today on the jk . I’m tackling the job myself
Glad the video helps out. The process can vary slightly from model to model but is generally the same.
Awesome the local mechanic is charging 2,000 for this job I was curious and called lol
@@Astro_GSD they bid high because they don't want the job but will do it for a high price. You could install a locker and do a regear for that price.
That’s insane I’m taking my time marketing everything and taking lots of pictures thank you for the awesome information
This the same process on a Dana 44 jk rear axle?
It will be virtually identical if it's an open carrier.
I just installed new spider gears in my Dana 30 front axle and mine are VERY tight. I can't spin them at all. Any suggestions?
Did you lather them in gear oil (along with the thrust washers)? At the correct part number? Any damage to the carrier?
@@TheBFHGarage no, should be, I don't see any damage.
The spider gears are from Summit Racing and seem visually to be very similar, but just really... Really tight.
Try rotating them with the axle shaft using a helper🤷
@@TheBFHGarageThe spider gears arrived in a bag with gear oil over all of the parts, so I believe that lubrication wasn't the problem. I will post updates as I resolve this, so anyone else who has this problem can learn. I do appreciate your responses.
A little history; this Jeep was stuck in the driver's side front corner, basically on the wheel. The axle tubes are out of alignment with each other, the lower control arm mount was smashed over ( I'll be replacing those), the front drive shaft is bent, and the axle tubes are leaking fluid. The spider gears were tearing themselves up due to the axle misalignment and I'm wondering if the carrier is tweaked, but I just can't see it.
Im working on my 02 suburban 1500 rear wheel drive. I have the carrier unbolted, but no shimmy or wiggle to pull out, do I need to have the truck in neutral??
Do you have the axle shafts pulled out?
@@TheBFHGarage yes I do
@Angel Benavides I just want to confirm that you're trying to remove the carrier from the housing. If that is the case then put a box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and turn the pinion or drive shaft until the carrier starts to walk out. It will be one way or the other. Be sure somebody's there to catch the carrier and the shim so they don't fall out because you don't want to mix up your shims! Go to my video "how to Re-Gear a Dana 30" and then go to the 2 minute mark. It will show you what I'm talking about.
@@TheBFHGarage much Thanks 🙏
So then I do put the truck in neutral right? So I can turn the pinion or shaft?? I only have the rear of the truck lifted
Dang it why bmw made it so tight, had to bash out with hammer those spider gears, not sure how i’m gonna put together 😂
I'm trying to replace my spider gears on my 99 silverado 1500, and for some reason the new ones won't go in, it's like they're slightly too big for some reason. Any ideas as to why? Am I going to have to get a slightly larger carrier for them?
As long as you are sure you purchased the correct spiders for your truck, they should fit. There isn't a "slightly larger" carrier. Installing new spider gears can be a pain in the@$$ sometimes. Try rotating them as you are working them in. The thrust washers need to roll right in with them. It is almost like a puzzle sometimes trying to figure out what it takes to get them to go in. Keep at it and good luck!
@@TheBFHGarage Huh, weird because the gears I got came directly from another 99 silverado 1500 rear end, and they fit into that one just fine. What causing the problem is that the side gears, the ones connected to the axles are slightly taller than the older ones when I set em base down. I don't know why they fit just fine in the other one, but not mine.
@@SgtAwesome97 I thought you bought new gears. if you are using used spiders then make sure it has the exact same axle and carrier. All bets are off using used gears unless they come out of the exact same donor axle. if one has limited slip and the other doesn't, that could be an issue although I've never run into that problem. How many years did silverado run? slight changes between them all, but not sure about axles.
@@TheBFHGarage They're both limited slip differentials. Internally they look exactly the same, minus the fact that 75% of my old ones gear teeth were turned into metal shavings and pieces. I just don't get why the gears fit into the new one fine and not into mine. It's from the exact same make, model, and year of truck.
@@SgtAwesome97 interesting...yet frustrating!
Really...
Bruh, I know this is an old video, but you rotated the side gears back into the opposite positions from original location. Not a good idea.
WoW! You are 100% correct! I didn't even catch that until after reading your comment and viewing the video again. Obviously, it's best to reinstall them in the same locations in which they came from but I'm curious as to how critical it is to do so. Mike...? Any input on this matter?