THE FIX Arrma 6S DRIVESHAFTS from POPPING out of the drive cups,..
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2022
- This will help from stopping your front driveshaft from popping out from front end landing. This refers to 6S only. (Arrma EXB only) passenger side most of the time, but solving it on both sides. The driveshafts are about 1.5mm to short. But you have to shorten both arms. remove the red ring, and the 3 shims in the upper arm. You have to keep the wheel moved in the same difference's.
The silicon rings on the shock shaft's is still a good idea. for better protection.
Have Fun. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I also suddenly got this with a Mojave. I thought I would order RMP Front Cvd Drives because I thought the axle was crooked. To my surprise, these were shorter than the original ones. That compounded the problem with the original upper arm. I removed the red ring and that brought the whole thing together a bit better. But you will lose the position of the wheels until you adjust the steering arm and you have the intended camber and toe correct again. A little tinkering and then it will be right again. Thanks for your solution. This one works for me!
I’ve shaved these for years, I had a felony do it, didn’t even think of of this, thanks dude!
Oh, on the felony and cars with that set up, cut a flat piece of rubber and put it inside both ends of the axle carriers to take up the slack. It’s from the hub starting to wear on the diff side. Doesn’t take much. It’s been a while, but it works. Thanks again.
by putting the rubber pieces in the cup, you mean the same idea as putting the ARA311028 spacers. Right? Personally im not sure why they put the red rings on in the first place. i have never or sean anyone that broke a arm at the end of it. by the hinge pin ya. but not the wheel end. nice chat speedo man, i keep hearing your name about this hobby.
@@readeracingRC I’m like an old retired name lol. I overbuild things that have no reason to exist lol. I use old tire and cut it in circles in a pinch on both ends on the typhon and 6 s road cars. I’m a retired street bike stunt rider that got into the hobby. I’m friends with some guys you may know, maybe that’s why you may have heard my name. I apologize, I was looking for fix for the street cars I forgot I already knew about. But your video is so important! That’s a great pointer and needs to be known about. Thank you for showing people. That’s what the community is about buddy, supporting each other and having fun. Great job! 🤘🏆
@@SpeedSyko thats some funny shit right there. im an retired motocross racer of like 30-40 years. i was flying drones and seen some kids with RC rigs and a light bulb went off and off i went. this is like racing but the crashes are quite painless. ill have to catch up on some of your vids for reference's. lol
Have Fun
Going to try this today, thanks! My Notorious was good for a while but for the second time today it popped out.
Should solve the problem.
Great vid, def makes sense removing the red ring and washers to shorten the distance and push the dog bone further in the cup. Will give it a try!
Glad it helped
Thanks for this! My right front dog bone keeps popping out of my Outcast 6S EXB and it’s so frustrating! This looks like a doable fix.
when they decided to add the red ring, for durability, they didnt think about the length needed to be added on to the driveshaft.
@@readeracingRC, so short-sighted of them! Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be a remedy from the aftermarket either. I have since replaced the stock dog bones up front with M2C beefcake dog bones and any extra length from them is minimal. I would love to use the red rings for that durability, but the popping dog bones are a pain!
You can grind off the ends like I shown in the video. Really have to be careful to make it only 1.5mm ground off. And yet make the ring sit like it did in the factory setting.
@@readeracingRC, thanks for the tip.
yes, i ground off about 1.5mm off the lower arm to fit the red ring. but after all the trouble I didnt do it to the outcast and never had any issues without the red ring.
This was really helpful thank you for this!!
I should have watched this video before repairing this exact issue today on our Mojave. The thing popped out (and killed the brand new Vitavon diff driveout) in under a minute. I nearly cried (Ok, I did not, I just cursed a lot). Thanks!
I've had an Outcast EXB for almost going on a year. I've bashed it, flipped it, etc and never had this happen. While running it yesterday at the max speed over some very patchy grass, it happened to me twice. I realized I hardly had any pre-load on the shocks. After I tightened the pre-load rings, the issue didn't return. I'm pretty sure not having the pre-load tightened down, was causing the a-arms to over extend. Not saying that's the permanent solution, (because you should be able to have no pre-load and not have issues), but it solved the problem at the moment. I do however have those stock washers / spacers on my a-arms and will be removing those.
Having those washers on the droop screws is also a good idea. When setting those a while back, I did wonder about them being pushed back into the a-arm. It's only inevitable that they eventually will get pushed in w/o washers, so I'm going to get some of those to.
Yerp. It seems I was always adjusting the drope screws and wasn't getting any where. Untill I figured it was stripping the threads.
Have fun
When I got my V5 Typhon I looked into things you should do right off the bat with Arrmas, esp the 6s line and one you must do was to adjust the droop screws to save breaking off your shock ends, Arrma sell double socket screws that make it easier to adjust and won't dig into your arms so much.
@@readeracingRC I added washers to mine and have not had to readjust them since. @RCexplained says they are only for adjusting ride height. While I beg to differ, I think it does both. Adjust ride height, while preventing the shocks from over extending.
@uBreakIt iRepairIt look into AJJAMS video on dog bones coming out. He also says that the end caps need worked to prevent dog bones from popping out.
@@JustKeepLivingFPV sold it and got the 4S version which is way funner at the skatepark and is a beast. The issue was resolved by removing the red washers / caps on the ends of the a-arms. Another video also suggest shaving 1-2mm off the ends of the a-arms which I never got around to doing and probably wouldn’t have needed to.
Hello, how many mm are the inside front turnbuckles in mm? So inside inside for the toe-out. Thank you very much from 🇦🇹
Both steering arms have to be equal length. mine are 123mm from screw hole to screw hole. This may not be the same for you, because i have a set of rear turnbuckles on the front. it took some doing but now i have 5mm wide instead of the 3mm stock ones. much stronger. other than that i m not sure if i answered your question. but having 2 or 3 degrees toe out for better steering capabilities.
The red ring as you call it, reinforces the end of the arm from breaking apart . The problem is you need to adjust the droop screw to stop over extension of your shocks and pulling the dog bone out.
Edit :
And I came back to do an edit. My edit is I'm not being an ahole just stating a fact.
You set your droop screws to set the arm from dropping to far and breaking the piston. T he driveshaft is to short. it need to be about 1.5mm longer. they didnt take into account when they added the red ring. i have never seen an end blow out with or without the red ring. i think it was a bling to make it look better. but that my take on it.
@@readeracingRC lol I agree. I've never had the issue either. 👍😊
That's how I took that as fact or the actual problem, thanks for the info I will do that...I'll put those washers back on and adjust the droop!!! 👍👍
I added two front shafts to the back and works great on my typhon 66s.
when they decided to add the red ring, for durability, they didnt think about the length needed to be added on to the driveshaft.
yes bro you are correct.....that makes perfect sense and you can always go back out witha washer if need be..so simple ty
yerp. exactly
@@readeracingRC I did this to both my notorious and k raton with good results
The old bastard comment got me 🤣🤣
could have been the "dirty old basturd"...trying it keep it clean. lol
@@readeracingRC 🤣🤣🤣🤣 👍👍
My kraton left front shaft keep popping off when i curve a bit hard. Do u know any reason?
So… Would adding a washer add the length back? Lol
I removed the red spacer from my Fireteam, and the washers on the other arm, then redid my toe adjustments and its fine now, you also can buy the 1mm longer driveshafts for the front, but i took the cheap fix...I.forget who makes the plus 1 driveshafts....
i didnt know there was a place to buy one. but this trick is really cheep. lol
@@readeracingRCI agree take the cheap route cause stock driveshafts are fine once you take that spacer/washer off the arms.....by the way I think M2C makes the plus 1mm driveshafts for Arrma!!!
This fixed my dog bone issue but now my servo saver is loose and my shocks are super stiff like it goes down but doesent want to rebound back up feels like something’s binding did you have to mess with the tie rod link?
I think I put about 20 mm of preload. measure from the spring tensioner ring to the bottom of the shock cap. 20mm might be a lot 15mm lowers the ride . i have it high for landing from big jumps.
I saw the video of the guy who pressure washed and WD-40 his rig and I agree with your comment. How do you clean up yours? Thanks in advance.
I have a hose adapter that sprays a small stream of water. Hose it off using a paint brush to wash with. Blow it off with the blower side of a vacuum cleaner. (Not so fixed in one spot) dry in front of a heater. then if I feel so necessary I spray with silicone spray, wipe down with armor all. That's just me. I try not to let it blow too hard wherever there are ball bearings. Every 3-4 cleanings I'll pull the hinge pins and shock mounts to keep them lubed up.
Thxxx ,just happens to me today
And they didnt fix the problem even in the latest version if the 6S line. they made it look like they fix the issues by beefing up the drive shafts, but in fact the driveshafts are still the same length and the drive cups. lol oh well.
Thanks guy😎
You bet
Thanks you bro🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
Welcome. and most importantly Have Fun
Yes your write😊
I have the same issue with the RPM's so that's not the only problem.
Rom do not have droop screws. So you can't adjust your droop
great maybe you are right. what about back driveshafts?
i haven't had those pop out, in fact i have the rubber spacer in the cup to keep in in the center of the cup.
Is this for v2?
Yes
Axial bump stops on front shocks problem fixed with out fucking up your camber or toe like this. So problem is fixed with out making your car handle like shit and over wear the out side of your tires. Don't do what the video says. learn about camber and toe then come back. You will see you want a alternative fix to the one in the video.
Dude if you remove 1.5 mm on the lower arm, and then remove the washers on the upper arms that's 1.5mm. nothing has changed in the chamber or tow in. Even if you did not 1.5mm is not going to do that much of a difference as far as a bashing truck.
LMAOROTF