Well what have we started haha the goal is to get it running and driving also stopping 😂 so we can enter the Max Pinjarra car show April 7th 2024 If you would like to help us out grab your self some Down the shed with Byron Merch check out three3s.com.au/creators/down-the-shed-with-byron/ Cheers everyone 👍
Good stuff fellas she's running and alive, maybe a bit sic still but you can't really kill them red motors well it's very hard to anyway. Love the build and the father and son team nothing better guys keep up the good work. :)
Great episode guys! Byron your a good educator and that boy of yours is going to make great mechanic. The joy of achievement was evident in Big Fella's face !
Well done lads,I was screaming timing,timing! But you worked it out. I'd let some diesel work it's way out overnight next change,give it a birthday. Cheers, more please.
Good stuff! Here's a tip but, the float level setting is important to correct fueling. Adjustment is made by bending the metal tang attaching the float. Too high & the jets will overfuel, too low & the fuel level in the bowl will run it too lean. Ham fisted mechs always upset this delicate balance. The correct factory setting will now be likely lost to time, so just set it to what you think logical, confirmed by the motor running its nicest with the mixture screw in about the middle +/- position, & as you know, read the colour of the deposit on the (clean) plugs after running constant at your favourite cruising revs for a bit. BTW, if you want to convert red rust to black oxide, just use vinegar on an oil free surface. Not the salad kind (6% acidity), use the cleaning kind marketed as 2x double strength, get it at Woolworths. It will knock even heavy scale rust if you leave it on long enough, the trick is to prevent it from drying out mean time. A cotton rag, glad wrap taped over it all works great. Rusty tools, same, wrap in a rag, put it in a plastic bag, wash off with water when done. Works a treat, costs pennies & you can reuse the vinegar in a jar say until its goup. Brakes? just rivet new shoes on yourself. Maybe ask a truck trailer mech where they buy their liners & rivets from. Just get a sheet of material of the correct thickness. You can measure what you need by measuring the gap between the set up shoe carrier & drum. Skim the drums yourself, just spin them up slow & use a shaped rubber sanding block from Bunnings. Run lube into the the cables. Wheel bearing preload tension with split pin through castelated system nut is done by shimming out to the next available position to achieve the correct preload. Just a hair looser than snug is good. Cut your own shims from anything handy, eg discarded bully beef tin. These are simple cars. For peace of mind, do replace your tail shaft/uni joint nuts with new nyloc & loctite them. I once saw a ute on the Kambalda Rd after the tail shaft had speared into the road & the entire rear sub assembly, wheels & all had wrapped itself around the tailgate & climbed into the well. I've never forgot it.
G'day mate Thanks heaps for the feed back and tips At the moment the brake shoes look ok the drums need some love and because i can't get them machined i was going to do that trick haha The carby at the moment is running sweet so not going to touch it While ive been at work the Big fella has been busy cleaning out the back so ive told him about the vinegar trick Thanks again 👍
@@downtheshedwithbyron Good'o, a light sanding of the shoe faces to fresh material & clean oil free mating works like magic. The cleaning grade vinegar from Woolies works in 30 to 60 minutes on the light panel rust, overnight on heavy scale. The fishermen use it after sandblasting to knock the flash rust just before they topcoat. BTW conversion to black oxide welds just like bright metal, & far smoother than red rust. Here's another cracker to keep in mind if you ever need to remove anodizing from parts. Maybe the part is the wrong colour, or the coating is tired & you need bare metal, or bare to re-anodize on. The stuff is super hard, grit & hand polish will do your head in. Just immerse it in degreaser. The heavy duty red from SuperCheap, softens the anodizing to where you can just wipe it off with a rag in in about 20 minutes, wash off with water, & then just spot treat the areas that are left, eg corners etc where the build up is heavier. Looking forward to the vid of youse charging around in it.
Well what have we started haha the goal is to get it running and driving also stopping 😂 so we can enter the Max Pinjarra car show April 7th 2024
If you would like to help us out grab your self some Down the shed with Byron Merch check out three3s.com.au/creators/down-the-shed-with-byron/
Cheers everyone 👍
A great dad and son team love it how you both work together keep the vids coming
Thanks mate 👍
You don’t realise how many Coronas I’ve smashed waiting for this mate! 😂
Haha 😄 you dont know how many i smashed to get it running haha
Unless there's a Rod hanging out of the side of block, the old 6 cylinders will always run. 👍👍
Yeah boy we still haven't worked out how long it had been parked up for but guessing 25 to 30 ish years
Good stuff fellas she's running and alive, maybe a bit sic still but you can't really kill them red motors well it's very hard to anyway. Love the build and the father and son team nothing better guys keep up the good work. :)
Thanks heaps mate 👍
Making some great memories
Quality family time
Great memories mate 👍
Great to see father and son working together. Big fella you are going to be a great videographer and mechanic. Fair play boys keep it coming.
Thanks heaps mate 👍
We are loving the build making great memories
It’s great to see the ol girl somewhat moving on by her own power again!
At the end of the video it sounded like she was ready for the quater mile lol
Haha 😄 the Big fella loves it
Awesome nice work
Cheers mate 👍
Was good to see the sense of achievement once it finally fired up.
It was priceless mate 👌
Go you good thing 😉
Thanks dude 👍
Great father son team, love watching your episodes keep em coming☺👍
Thanks mate 👍
It's a great feeling when an engine first fire's up, and doing it with the big fella 😂 thanks for sharing, all the best to yous, and your loved ones
It was a great feeling
Cheers mate 👍
Great episode guys! Byron your a good educator and that boy of yours is going to make great mechanic. The joy of achievement was evident in Big Fella's face !
Thanks very much
We are loving it making some great memories
Not sure who was more excited to you guys or me to see old red running again
Haha it was a top day mate
It starts almost straight away now every time
Awesome effort. Looking forward to more.
Time to upgrade to a family pack of microphones now that most of the offspring are involved.
Thanks mate 👍
161 was the smoothest running Holden 6.
We have it running mint now
Well done guys....i knew that you would get her going.....dirty thumbs x2.
Thanks bro 👍👍🍺
Well done lads,I was screaming timing,timing! But you worked it out. I'd let some diesel work it's way out overnight next change,give it a birthday. Cheers, more please.
Thanks dude yeah we and up giving it some love
Awesome work guys, I knew it would start 👍😂 fantastic, BIG THUMBS UP 👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers Bad Q 👍👍👍
Good stuff!
Here's a tip but, the float level setting is important to correct fueling. Adjustment is made by bending the metal tang attaching the float. Too high & the jets will overfuel, too low & the fuel level in the bowl will run it too lean. Ham fisted mechs always upset this delicate balance. The correct factory setting will now be likely lost to time, so just set it to what you think logical, confirmed by the motor running its nicest with the mixture screw in about the middle +/- position, & as you know, read the colour of the deposit on the (clean) plugs after running constant at your favourite cruising revs for a bit.
BTW, if you want to convert red rust to black oxide, just use vinegar on an oil free surface. Not the salad kind (6% acidity), use the cleaning kind marketed as 2x double strength, get it at Woolworths. It will knock even heavy scale rust if you leave it on long enough, the trick is to prevent it from drying out mean time. A cotton rag, glad wrap taped over it all works great. Rusty tools, same, wrap in a rag, put it in a plastic bag, wash off with water when done. Works a treat, costs pennies & you can reuse the vinegar in a jar say until its goup.
Brakes? just rivet new shoes on yourself. Maybe ask a truck trailer mech where they buy their liners & rivets from. Just get a sheet of material of the correct thickness. You can measure what you need by measuring the gap between the set up shoe carrier & drum.
Skim the drums yourself, just spin them up slow & use a shaped rubber sanding block from Bunnings. Run lube into the the cables.
Wheel bearing preload tension with split pin through castelated system nut is done by shimming out to the next available position to achieve the correct preload. Just a hair looser than snug is good. Cut your own shims from anything handy, eg discarded bully beef tin. These are simple cars.
For peace of mind, do replace your tail shaft/uni joint nuts with new nyloc & loctite them.
I once saw a ute on the Kambalda Rd after the tail shaft had speared into the road & the entire rear sub assembly, wheels & all had wrapped itself around the tailgate & climbed into the well. I've never forgot it.
G'day mate
Thanks heaps for the feed back and tips
At the moment the brake shoes look ok the drums need some love and because i can't get them machined i was going to do that trick haha
The carby at the moment is running sweet so not going to touch it
While ive been at work the Big fella has been busy cleaning out the back so ive told him about the vinegar trick
Thanks again 👍
@@downtheshedwithbyron Good'o, a light sanding of the shoe faces to fresh material & clean oil free mating works like magic. The cleaning grade vinegar from Woolies works in 30 to 60 minutes on the light panel rust, overnight on heavy scale. The fishermen use it after sandblasting to knock the flash rust just before they topcoat. BTW conversion to black oxide welds just like bright metal, & far smoother than red rust.
Here's another cracker to keep in mind if you ever need to remove anodizing from parts. Maybe the part is the wrong colour, or the coating is tired & you need bare metal, or bare to re-anodize on. The stuff is super hard, grit & hand polish will do your head in. Just immerse it in degreaser. The heavy duty red from SuperCheap, softens the anodizing to where you can just wipe it off with a rag in in about 20 minutes, wash off with water, & then just spot treat the areas that are left, eg corners etc where the build up is heavier.
Looking forward to the vid of youse charging around in it.
Good stuff. Thanks . Not sure about are we "people" or "viewers" : )
Champions mate 👍🍺
That's wicked!
Cheers Daz
Loving this series!! Engine sounds pretty healthy. Be interesting to see what the compression is once it’s been run for a bit
Cheers mate 👍
Part 4 friday we done another compression test
😍No words mate! I'll be buying a 173 for the EJ at some stage, cracking little engine.
That day down the shed was priceless
Got 2 if you want them
not to many kids would have there dads helping them getting old cars going, most people would say scrap it your waisting your time
Haha i almost got to that point but stopped had a coffee then we got it so lucky the boy turned the camera on for first start up
@@downtheshedwithbyron good stuff, persistence pays off