Nice but I never remove the brake calipers to remove the front wheel. Once the wheel is removed I push the brake pads (pistons) back to make installation easier. Remember to pump the brakes after reinstallation to bring the pads back into contact with the rotor.
Thanks for that, Nick. I’ve just had to remove my front wheel after being a colossal ninny and riding off with the d-lock still through the hub, and bending a spoke. I’m not mechanically confident but really clear instructions, well presented and shot. Spot on. Cheers.
Thank you so much for your Video instructional. I am from the Philippines and needed to change the front tire of my BMW 1250 GSA. You were very thorough. My 14 year old son and his friend helped me (they did all the work). It's PERFECT. Thank you so much
Wow another fully explained video nick, thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle removal of front and rear wheels, picked up what looked like a Stanley blade on way home last night on A27 thank god for tyre sensors and only just made it home with 1bar left in rear tyre. Watched your video and wheel coming off today and new tyre being fitted. Many thanks👍
Thanks Chris. It never ceases to amaze me how these things get flicked into tyres. I had a 4 inch screw right in to the head and bent inside the tyre. Both jobs are simple. You can remove the front without removing the calipers but I prefer to give plenty of room and support them with cable ties so they are not straining the hoses. Good luck 👍🏻
Great video One thing to add is to start the motor while you bounce the bike as the active suspension feels like a rock with the motor off. Learnt from this video that I do not have to carry a big hexkey as the axle just slides out
D Gomes that a good idea I never thought of and you’re correct. It’s not very bouncy for sure. I’ll give that a try next time. It is confusing why they have the big hex in the end. Suppose they’ve had corrosion issues at some point??? Ride safe
Thanks Rob. I have invested in a external microphone and some camera software for the iPhone. Still takes some mastery but I'm getting there. Ride Safe
@@nickhodgeUK Forgive me, I know this topic has already been covered, but would you be willing to elaborate a bit more on the copper grease? My 1250 recently underwent a tire changeover at my local dealer and it doesn't appear they used any type of anti-seize compound. In your opinion, is its application a benefit of doing it yourself? Appreciate the clarity.
@@AlaskanMasonjar hi Jim. There was none in mine at disassembly (from factory) but my thought is it’s a metal surface and clamped. Left for a prolonged period or in a harsh environment I’m sure it could corrode, tarnish and be difficult to remove. It will not stop the wheel turning as that is the job of the bearings. I would concede to an earlier commenter that high melting point standard grease would be better on the seal face as copper grease does have some metal in it. I slightly disagree with the comparison with carborundum grinding paste which is actually very abrasive. Copper grease is for assembling components and slow moving bearings so ideal spread thinly on the spindle to prevent possible seizure. Is it necessary? Maybe not, is it harmful, certainly not. It’s a bit like the clutch and brake lever pivots. Are they ever likely to sieze? No, but I still drop a little oil on them once a year. Hope that clarifies? 👍🏻
Another Great Video Nick. Like another mentioned, interested in the rear wheel tire removal. I have been looking for tire removal videos for awhile. Appreciate your hands on instruction. Well done
Glen Kitzman hi Glen. I’m hoping, as I had the puncture mid life of the first that it’ll be another few thousand before she comes off but I may take it off for fun!! Glad to have you along... ride safe
Surprised to see you use copper grease on the spindle and especially on the spacer and oil seal face, copper grease is not a lubricant it's abrasive the same but not as severe as grinding paste. Best practise is to smear it with high melting point race grease and if any surplus finds its way into the bearing surfaces it will cause no damage. Hope this is helpful and thanks for your many informative videos.
I think I may agree with the spacer face but the spindle is ideal as copper has anti-seize properties. Ideal for assembly. The spindle is not rotating. I would contest none would find it’s way to the bearing. Particularly if as advised used sparingly??? In my opinion of course. Thanks for the comment though 👍🏻
Well, this is needed for me xD I have a 2020 gs A and its time for frontwheel change, and I forgot to check how the spacer aligns and never though it actually goes inside the seal. But now I know xD
I used copper grease as it’s more about stopping corrosion than lubricating. Realistically any will do as it won’t get hot either. Just be sure you just smear lightly on the spindle only 👍🏻
Hi Nick, I love your videos. Way you describe the machine and materials, costs and honest reviews. Use a mic if possible as the voice is low on these videos. Thanks a lot for your contribution. Cheers, Chetan
chetan sb thanks chetan. Sound is definitely a struggle for me although I actually have two mics I generally use. A ride camera mounted and a tie-pin type. Just wonder if it’s the acoustics of my room which has high ceilings and stuff. Rest assured I’m working on it though
Removing the calipers to get the front wheel off under heavy rain and mud would be a tough one! Most would just get by without removing the front calipers.
I find the detail of bouncing the suspension before fixing the axis really interesting. Just one doubt: is it not necessary to block the axle with a hex socket from the right side to prevent it from free spinning when screwing the left axle bolt? You don't show it in your video, nor do that most of other similar channels. Otherwise, why is that right side hex hole for? Thank you!
RMG thanks for the comment. Probably unfair to comment as my experience is small on other modern tyres. Never had issue for sure. I was happy with the wear but one commenter had Anakees which had done many more miles but I didn’t really ‘wear out’ my rear tyre. It was replaced with a severe puncture at about 2,600 miles I think. Sorry cant be more helpful
Great video thanks a lot ! You took my fear out of doing that task myself on my 1250 ! Could you please advice which tool you use to fit precisely the pressure in newton on each torxs....??
I used a 3/8dr torque wrench (I use a 3/8 drive one as the torque is in the middle of its measuring scale. If you use a 1/2drive you’d be right at the bottom and 1/4 drive right at the top. Torque wrenches measure more accurately in the middle of their range 👍🏻
Hi Nick - what brand of torx bits do you use? I've struggle to find a decent quality set unfortuantely. I had a draper set but the holding socket is a terrible quality. Thanks
Hi ..i saw the notice ..but ..do you think the wheel can go out with the brakes on place ? They are over the centers and behind of the plates thats why i am asking ..
hi, thansk for doing this. im about to tackle this, i dont see anyone using that big hex on the left side (if im facing the front of the bike) just the right side 17mm will tighten the spindle?
Hi. The spindle should be loose after loosening the fork clamps either side. I think the 17mm is purely there to give a little leverage if it does get stuck or corroded 👍🏻
On my old 1200GS (2012) which I used to own I could remove the front wheel without taking off both brake calipers, even if instructional videos included removal of both of them. Do you think it would be possible/impossible on the 1250 to get the wheel off with one of the calipers in place? (Yes, you need to wiggle a bit and maybe put a wedge between the pads, and not actuate the brake while the rotor is out from in between them, but is it physically possible? (The fully inflated tire width itself can be a bit of an obstacle, but it worked on the old bike!)
Peter. Absolutely you could. Much depends on type of tyre and whether you want to risk damage (probably superficial) to rim or calliper cosmetics. For four bolts I’d rather remove. Also it’s far easier in reassembly to get wheel fixed and centred and then drop the calipers over 👍🏻
Hello Nick, just about to remove my wheels on my GS and just wanted to check.........when replacing the wheel, do you torque up the 17mm spindle bolt before you remove your jack, and do the bouncing bit??
Hi Ken. Amazing how people spot these things outside the subject 🤣. It’s OSB3 board (18mm I think). The floor frame is very sturdy with multiple steel spars. It has no issues. Been really happy with it. It’s steel so suffers condensation but it doesn’t actually drip, although I have cover on bike anyhow 👍🏻
how important is to suspend the brake calipers so that they dont just hang off the hose when you take off the front wheel? I know on a car that's a very big NO NO, but on a bike, the caliper is smaller and less heavy... I changed my tyres on my R1250 GSA and the mechanic didn't bother suspending the calipers even though I told him he should do so.
Anything may be able to ‘get away with’ but the pipes, compression joints and banjo unions are all under undue stress for the sake of a couple of cable ties. Be aware too you can remove the front wheel without removing the calipers but it’s tougher, impossible with some tyre types and increases danger of damaging something. Eg ABS sensor 👍🏻
Richard D hi Richard. I hope not. I had a rear wheel puncture at about 2,500 miles and was so close to the dealer and it was late, they replaced tyre for me. Be sure I likely will when it does need doing though. Service at dealers on 12th September. May post a short video on experience. Ride safe
@@nickhodgeUK My R1250GS has Anakee Adventures fitted. I've just passed 5000 miles and the front shows some wear (and a touch of squaring-off), whereas the rear still looks very fresh. They seem good tyres although perhaps a touch noisy. I will be interested to hear about your service experience. Did you follow the variable service indicator on the bike or stick with a fixed interval?
Richard D I had Anakee’s on my 2018 1200 although both my 1250 and my mates Exclusive both have Battlax. I’m going by the TFT telling me. Had a bit of a conversation with the dealer as both mine and mates back brakes are pretty well useless. They are going to change brake fluid but can’t see how that will help so watch this space. Interested to know how others back brakes are. I know they’re 60/40 balanced when front applied and that’s superb, but the rear alone is pants
Indeed you can… mostly. You may struggle if the tyre is too wide and whatever it’s more of a wriggle risking damage to rims and sensor, particularly on re-assembly where it’s much better to drop the calipers on the discs than try and manoeuvre the discs into the calipers. For me it’s just 5 bolts and makes the job so much easier and cleaner 👍🏻
Yup! Already watch his videos as well. Just got my R1250GS and i do my own maintenance as well. Doing my research now before its time to do any kind of maintenance.. Just played with my GS-911 wifi tool. Lots of great info. Getting my base line data now while bike is fairly new! Love this bike.
Looking at the video, it appears that you may have been running your tire pressure higher than what is recommended, I would check your air pressure gauge to avoid wearing your new tire out so quickly. Also, that was way too much grease you put on that spindle. Thanks for the videos...
Hi Ryan. I’m not sure. You may get away with removing one but you can’t manoeuvre the forks and the mudguard is bolted to it. The wheel may pass but not sure tyre would easily. Maybe check next time if I can. It’s a pretty easy couple of bolts though and sure makes it easier
@@nickhodgeUK those caliper bolts would have a torque spec. Unless you keep a torque wrench on the trail with you it would probably be a good idea to practice removing tires with the least amount of disassembly possible
Ryan Hermary don’t disagree but I would say a small proportion of GS riders use their machines in that way, particularly here in UK where we have few available ‘trails’ as others with greater land mass have
Thanks for the video. I'm beginning to think that the owner's manual, and all of the front wheel videos I've seen are providing wrong information. Consider this KTM video from Slavens racing: th-cam.com/video/zhb25ElKdEU/w-d-xo.html The difference I see is in the order that things are tightened and torqued when reinstalling the wheel, and I know Jeff Slavens gets it right in his video. If we were to follow this advice on our GSs, the order would be 1. replace 17mm axle nut, but do not torque 2. snug right side pinch bolt, but do not torque 3. torque 17mm axle nut, 4. torque left side pinch bolt 5. loosen right side pinch bolt and check to see if axle can slide a tiny bit inside of right fork. Move forks up and down if desired to ensure no binding. 6. torque right pinch bolt. What do you think? Full disclosure: I've yet to remove my GS wheel, but I've used this procedure lots on KTMs, where I've also seen the wheels installed incorrectly, causing poor suspension performance. Here's another video from Tokyo Offroad which I think also shows the same principle: th-cam.com/video/7qRIxzf9nqA/w-d-xo.html The right side pinch bolt is the last thing to get tightened, as that's the point where there is some wiggle room between the axle and the fork to ensure the forks aren't binding. The left side gets done first, as that step is what draws the axle into the hub and correctly tightens the axle to the hub and to the left fork. I'd be happy for any feedback about this. Lastly, as I'm about to do my first tire change, I went looking for the 22 mm allen key for the right side of axle or alternative from Touratech, Wunderlich www.wunderlichamerica.com/Motorcycle_Multi_Function_Axle_Tool_Wunderlich_BMW or Motion Pro. So many threads about making your own.... And yet, this tool seems 100% unneeded, unless perhaps you have parts rusted together? No such tool for my KTM, and I don't see why you'd ever need one of these for the GS.
The 17mm axle nut is part of the spindle and only used to give purchase to the spindle if the fork pinch bolts don’t let it loose. I’ve never had issue and in fact many suggest not removing the calipers and I think you could remove it but I feel safer doing that. The way I did it was to put the spindle in and then after finger tightening the pinch bolts, bouncing the suspension to centre everything and then torque pinch bolts 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK Hi Nick, I didn't see your response and also just edited my comment and hopefully clarified a bit. The point is you can't "centre" anything with BOTH pinch bolts tightened. You have to fix the left side (17mm bolt and then the pinch bolt), bounce, and then fix the right side pinch bolt. But before doing that, you temporarily tighten the right side pinch bolt, so that you can draw in the axle with the 17mm bolt and tighten the left side pinch. After fixing the left side, you loosen the right again, center things, and then finally tighten the right side pinch bolt. It's totally not what the Internet is telling us, at least the videos I've started to look at. I'm just a shade-tree mechanic, and so having to look stuff for my KTM have given me a different perspective on this. Give the videos a look and make up your own mind. I haven't made an opinion on removing the calipers yet. It's easy enough to pop them off and likely reduces the chance of scratching something and reduces the number of hands you need re-fitting the wheel.
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Nice but I never remove the brake calipers to remove the front wheel. Once the wheel is removed I push the brake pads (pistons) back to make installation easier. Remember to pump the brakes after reinstallation to bring the pads back into contact with the rotor.
Good tip!
Was going to say the same - there’s really no need to remove the calipers 👌 especially if you’re out on the trail trying to repair your tire!
Thanks for that, Nick. I’ve just had to remove my front wheel after being a colossal ninny and riding off with the d-lock still through the hub, and bending a spoke. I’m not mechanically confident but really clear instructions, well presented and shot. Spot on. Cheers.
Thanks Ben. Sorry for your damage but glad it helped 👍🏻
An excellent tutorial. Thorough, concise and explained in full. Makes a complete novice like myself feel like its achievable. Many thanks.
Glad it worked for you
Can’t tell you how many times I have referred back to this when removing the wheels. Can’t thank you enough.
Cheers Ryan. Glad it helps 👍🏻
Thank you so much for your Video instructional. I am from the Philippines and needed to change the front tire of my BMW 1250 GSA. You were very thorough. My 14 year old son and his friend helped me (they did all the work). It's PERFECT. Thank you so much
Thanks for the comment Gerry. Glad it all worked for you and ride safe
Wow another fully explained video nick, thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle removal of front and rear wheels, picked up what looked like a Stanley blade on way home last night on A27 thank god for tyre sensors and only just made it home with 1bar left in rear tyre. Watched your video and wheel coming off today and new tyre being fitted. Many thanks👍
Thanks Chris. It never ceases to amaze me how these things get flicked into tyres. I had a 4 inch screw right in to the head and bent inside the tyre. Both jobs are simple. You can remove the front without removing the calipers but I prefer to give plenty of room and support them with cable ties so they are not straining the hoses. Good luck 👍🏻
Great video One thing to add is to start the motor while you bounce the bike as the active suspension feels like a rock with the motor off. Learnt from this video that I do not have to carry a big hexkey as the axle just slides out
D Gomes that a good idea I never thought of and you’re correct. It’s not very bouncy for sure. I’ll give that a try next time. It is confusing why they have the big hex in the end. Suppose they’ve had corrosion issues at some point??? Ride safe
Excellent video of how to remove and replace the front wheel, audio and video was first class 👍
Thanks Rob. I have invested in a external microphone and some camera software for the iPhone. Still takes some mastery but I'm getting there. Ride Safe
Nicely done! Easy to follow video. You took the fear out of doing that task on my 1250.
2AwesomeDadsAdventures glad it helped you. Ride safe
Thanks from Alaska Nick. As many others have already said, great video and you've removed the fear of the unknown for me.
Thanks Jim. Glad it helps 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK Forgive me, I know this topic has already been covered, but would you be willing to elaborate a bit more on the copper grease? My 1250 recently underwent a tire changeover at my local dealer and it doesn't appear they used any type of anti-seize compound. In your opinion, is its application a benefit of doing it yourself? Appreciate the clarity.
@@AlaskanMasonjar hi Jim. There was none in mine at disassembly (from factory) but my thought is it’s a metal surface and clamped. Left for a prolonged period or in a harsh environment I’m sure it could corrode, tarnish and be difficult to remove. It will not stop the wheel turning as that is the job of the bearings. I would concede to an earlier commenter that high melting point standard grease would be better on the seal face as copper grease does have some metal in it. I slightly disagree with the comparison with carborundum grinding paste which is actually very abrasive. Copper grease is for assembling components and slow moving bearings so ideal spread thinly on the spindle to prevent possible seizure. Is it necessary? Maybe not, is it harmful, certainly not. It’s a bit like the clutch and brake lever pivots. Are they ever likely to sieze? No, but I still drop a little oil on them once a year. Hope that clarifies? 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK Hi Nick! Exactly the clarity I was hoping for!! Super helpful and thanks again. Jim
Another Great Video Nick. Like another mentioned, interested in the rear wheel tire removal. I have been looking for tire removal videos for awhile. Appreciate your hands on instruction. Well done
Glen Kitzman hi Glen. I’m hoping, as I had the puncture mid life of the first that it’ll be another few thousand before she comes off but I may take it off for fun!! Glad to have you along... ride safe
Excellent video, very well presented. Thank you very much.
No worries Gordon 👍🏻
Excellent lesson. Very well done. Cheers.
Thanks Brad
Excellent job on the video and instructions, thanks so much for sharing.
No worries Joaquin. Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻
Very good information.... Everything explained in detail...👍👍👍
Thank you. Viewing the set 🤣 👍🏻
Surprised to see you use copper grease on the spindle and especially on the spacer and oil seal face, copper grease is not a lubricant it's abrasive the same but not as severe as grinding paste. Best practise is to smear it with high melting point race grease and if any surplus finds its way into the bearing surfaces it will cause no damage. Hope this is helpful and thanks for your many informative videos.
I think I may agree with the spacer face but the spindle is ideal as copper has anti-seize properties. Ideal for assembly. The spindle is not rotating. I would contest none would find it’s way to the bearing. Particularly if as advised used sparingly??? In my opinion of course. Thanks for the comment though 👍🏻
Thanks for the videos. I thought I was gonna need that 22mm for the front axle and you saved me from buying an unnecessary tool. Thanks!
He Chris. Yep no need
Well, this is needed for me xD I have a 2020 gs A and its time for frontwheel change, and I forgot to check how the spacer aligns and never though it actually goes inside the seal. But now I know xD
Good luck 🤞🏻
Very instructive!, And also very clear!, I enjoy your videos!.👌
Thanks for the comment Kevin. Glad you enjoy them 👍🏻
Excellent video, very well done. Much more detail than others. Can you share what grease you used?
I used copper grease as it’s more about stopping corrosion than lubricating. Realistically any will do as it won’t get hot either. Just be sure you just smear lightly on the spindle only 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK Is it a Copper Anti-Seize lubricant?
@jpaul4595 exactly. Copper ease
As usual excellent tutorial
Thanks Richard 👍🏻
Thanks for this one Nick, am about to swap both tyres out on my GS, so very useful. Stay safe!
Glad it helped
Hi Nick,
I love your videos. Way you describe the machine and materials, costs and honest reviews.
Use a mic if possible as the voice is low on these videos.
Thanks a lot for your contribution.
Cheers,
Chetan
chetan sb thanks chetan. Sound is definitely a struggle for me although I actually have two mics I generally use. A ride camera mounted and a tie-pin type. Just wonder if it’s the acoustics of my room which has high ceilings and stuff. Rest assured I’m working on it though
Thank you for the video, very helpful..!!
No worries. Glad it helped 👍🏻
Removing the calipers to get the front wheel off under heavy rain and mud would be a tough one! Most would just get by without removing the front calipers.
Most people might not do it in the rain 🤣🤣 (he hoped) 👍🏻
Very professional. 👍
Thanks Paul 👍🏻
I find the detail of bouncing the suspension before fixing the axis really interesting. Just one doubt: is it not necessary to block the axle with a hex socket from the right side to prevent it from free spinning when screwing the left axle bolt? You don't show it in your video, nor do that most of other similar channels. Otherwise, why is that right side hex hole for? Thank you!
It’s a black art I reckon. That does not need to be over tight anyhow as the pinch bolts hold the spindle even if it’s only finger tight
Excellent...so when the time comes👍..i am 63 and never owned a torque wrench..managed thus far?...
Is the ‘feel’ 🤣
Fine job Sir, thanks again for the video.
Glenn S thanks for watching
great job and well explained, what do you think of the Bridgestone tyres, I know they a black sticky and round just wondered if you like them.
RMG thanks for the comment. Probably unfair to comment as my experience is small on other modern tyres. Never had issue for sure. I was happy with the wear but one commenter had Anakees which had done many more miles but I didn’t really ‘wear out’ my rear tyre. It was replaced with a severe puncture at about 2,600 miles I think. Sorry cant be more helpful
Well done here. Great motorcycle too. Life’s short, just buy the bike.
Yep. Worry about depreciation nothing would happen
Great video thanks a lot ! You took my fear out of doing that task myself on my 1250 ! Could you please advice which tool you use to fit precisely the pressure in newton on each torxs....??
I used a 3/8dr torque wrench (I use a 3/8 drive one as the torque is in the middle of its measuring scale. If you use a 1/2drive you’d be right at the bottom and 1/4 drive right at the top. Torque wrenches measure more accurately in the middle of their range 👍🏻
Excellent video. Well done!
Nice video
Thank you 👍🏻
Hi Nick - what brand of torx bits do you use? I've struggle to find a decent quality set unfortuantely. I had a draper set but the holding socket is a terrible quality. Thanks
Mine are mainly Wera. 👍🏻
Nick, do you have to use the copper grease for the spindle. Great video.
Hi frank. No. I just felt something to stop it corroding. Even a touch of Vaseline would help 👍🏻
Hi ..i saw the notice ..but ..do you think the wheel can go out with the brakes on place ? They are over the centers and behind of the plates thats why i am asking ..
Hi Christophe. For sure you *can* remove the front wheel without removing the calipers. I just chose not to hoping to avoid scratches and scrapes 👍🏻
hi, thansk for doing this. im about to tackle this, i dont see anyone using that big hex on the left side (if im facing the front of the bike) just the right side 17mm will tighten the spindle?
Hi. The spindle should be loose after loosening the fork clamps either side. I think the 17mm is purely there to give a little leverage if it does get stuck or corroded 👍🏻
What type of grease did you use for the axel? Great video!
Hi Efrain. I used a copper grease. Quite expensive but very good
Great video 👍👍 thanks!
Thanks for the comments
Tanks, great !!!
No worries 👍🏻
On my old 1200GS (2012) which I used to own I could remove the front wheel without taking off both brake calipers, even if instructional videos included removal of both of them. Do you think it would be possible/impossible on the 1250 to get the wheel off with one of the calipers in place? (Yes, you need to wiggle a bit and maybe put a wedge between the pads, and not actuate the brake while the rotor is out from in between them, but is it physically possible? (The fully inflated tire width itself can be a bit of an obstacle, but it worked on the old bike!)
Peter. Absolutely you could. Much depends on type of tyre and whether you want to risk damage (probably superficial) to rim or calliper cosmetics. For four bolts I’d rather remove. Also it’s far easier in reassembly to get wheel fixed and centred and then drop the calipers over 👍🏻
Hello Nick, just about to remove my wheels on my GS and just wanted to check.........when replacing the wheel, do you torque up the 17mm spindle bolt before you remove your jack, and do the bouncing bit??
Yes just leave the pinch bolts hand tight and bounce to centre everything then pinch them up 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK That was quick!!! Thanks Nick, appreciate..............great video..........expect nothing less from you 😁
Hi nick, what’s the wood you have on the floor of your bike shed, and how does it cope with the weight of your bike.
Hi Ken. Amazing how people spot these things outside the subject 🤣. It’s OSB3 board (18mm I think). The floor frame is very sturdy with multiple steel spars. It has no issues. Been really happy with it. It’s steel so suffers condensation but it doesn’t actually drip, although I have cover on bike anyhow 👍🏻
Thanks nick.👍
how important is to suspend the brake calipers so that they dont just hang off the hose when you take off the front wheel? I know on a car that's a very big NO NO, but on a bike, the caliper is smaller and less heavy... I changed my tyres on my R1250 GSA and the mechanic didn't bother suspending the calipers even though I told him he should do so.
Anything may be able to ‘get away with’ but the pipes, compression joints and banjo unions are all under undue stress for the sake of a couple of cable ties. Be aware too you can remove the front wheel without removing the calipers but it’s tougher, impossible with some tyre types and increases danger of damaging something. Eg ABS sensor 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK thanks!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting. Will you be doing the same for the rear wheel in the near future?
Richard D hi Richard. I hope not. I had a rear wheel puncture at about 2,500 miles and was so close to the dealer and it was late, they replaced tyre for me. Be sure I likely will when it does need doing though. Service at dealers on 12th September. May post a short video on experience. Ride safe
@@nickhodgeUK My R1250GS has Anakee Adventures fitted. I've just passed 5000 miles and the front shows some wear (and a touch of squaring-off), whereas the rear still looks very fresh. They seem good tyres although perhaps a touch noisy. I will be interested to hear about your service experience. Did you follow the variable service indicator on the bike or stick with a fixed interval?
Richard D I had Anakee’s on my 2018 1200 although both my 1250 and my mates Exclusive both have Battlax. I’m going by the TFT telling me. Had a bit of a conversation with the dealer as both mine and mates back brakes are pretty well useless. They are going to change brake fluid but can’t see how that will help so watch this space. Interested to know how others back brakes are. I know they’re 60/40 balanced when front applied and that’s superb, but the rear alone is pants
why do you have to remove calipers and sensor? cant you just pull the center retaining bolt and slide it out?
Indeed you can… mostly. You may struggle if the tyre is too wide and whatever it’s more of a wriggle risking damage to rims and sensor, particularly on re-assembly where it’s much better to drop the calipers on the discs than try and manoeuvre the discs into the calipers. For me it’s just 5 bolts and makes the job so much easier and cleaner 👍🏻
My front is worn out. It's slick on the sides.
🤣👍🏻
Did you take your wheels to the dealer to save time or what? Dealer would do this in less than an hour, why 3 days?
Exactly Javan. They couldn’t take the bike for over a week so he did it quicker if I took the wheel down 👍🏻
Rear Wheel Removal BMW R1250GS, done that to?
Jpson67 no sorry. Rear tyre has been changed but I suffered a puncture so dealer did all of the job
@@nickhodgeUK Ok hope your ok now then
Rear is very easy, just 5 bolts. Caliper and rotor stays on the bike, untouched.
Indeed 👍🏻
Thanks Nick!
You should hook up with Themissendenflyer both awesome channels 👍
Yup! Already watch his videos as well. Just got my R1250GS and i do my own maintenance as well. Doing my research now before its time to do any kind of maintenance.. Just played with my GS-911 wifi tool. Lots of great info. Getting my base line data now while bike is fairly new! Love this bike.
kontor15 brilliant but what is a GS-911 😳
Looking at the video, it appears that you may have been running your tire pressure higher than what is recommended, I would check your air pressure gauge to avoid wearing your new tire out so quickly. Also, that was way too much grease you put on that spindle. Thanks for the videos...
Kinda doubt you needed to remove the calipers, the wheel should just slide off
Hi Ryan. I’m not sure. You may get away with removing one but you can’t manoeuvre the forks and the mudguard is bolted to it. The wheel may pass but not sure tyre would easily. Maybe check next time if I can. It’s a pretty easy couple of bolts though and sure makes it easier
@@nickhodgeUK those caliper bolts would have a torque spec. Unless you keep a torque wrench on the trail with you it would probably be a good idea to practice removing tires with the least amount of disassembly possible
Ryan Hermary don’t disagree but I would say a small proportion of GS riders use their machines in that way, particularly here in UK where we have few available ‘trails’ as others with greater land mass have
Thanks for the video. I'm beginning to think that the owner's manual, and all of the front wheel videos I've seen are providing wrong information. Consider this KTM video from Slavens racing: th-cam.com/video/zhb25ElKdEU/w-d-xo.html The difference I see is in the order that things are tightened and torqued when reinstalling the wheel, and I know Jeff Slavens gets it right in his video. If we were to follow this advice on our GSs, the order would be 1. replace 17mm axle nut, but do not torque 2. snug right side pinch bolt, but do not torque 3. torque 17mm axle nut, 4. torque left side pinch bolt 5. loosen right side pinch bolt and check to see if axle can slide a tiny bit inside of right fork. Move forks up and down if desired to ensure no binding. 6. torque right pinch bolt. What do you think? Full disclosure: I've yet to remove my GS wheel, but I've used this procedure lots on KTMs, where I've also seen the wheels installed incorrectly, causing poor suspension performance.
Here's another video from Tokyo Offroad which I think also shows the same principle:
th-cam.com/video/7qRIxzf9nqA/w-d-xo.html
The right side pinch bolt is the last thing to get tightened, as that's the point where there is some wiggle room between the axle and the fork to ensure the forks aren't binding. The left side gets done first, as that step is what draws the axle into the hub and correctly tightens the axle to the hub and to the left fork.
I'd be happy for any feedback about this.
Lastly, as I'm about to do my first tire change, I went looking for the 22 mm allen key for the right side of axle or alternative from Touratech, Wunderlich www.wunderlichamerica.com/Motorcycle_Multi_Function_Axle_Tool_Wunderlich_BMW or Motion Pro. So many threads about making your own.... And yet, this tool seems 100% unneeded, unless perhaps you have parts rusted together? No such tool for my KTM, and I don't see why you'd ever need one of these for the GS.
The 17mm axle nut is part of the spindle and only used to give purchase to the spindle if the fork pinch bolts don’t let it loose. I’ve never had issue and in fact many suggest not removing the calipers and I think you could remove it but I feel safer doing that. The way I did it was to put the spindle in and then after finger tightening the pinch bolts, bouncing the suspension to centre everything and then torque pinch bolts 👍🏻
@@nickhodgeUK Hi Nick, I didn't see your response and also just edited my comment and hopefully clarified a bit. The point is you can't "centre" anything with BOTH pinch bolts tightened. You have to fix the left side (17mm bolt and then the pinch bolt), bounce, and then fix the right side pinch bolt. But before doing that, you temporarily tighten the right side pinch bolt, so that you can draw in the axle with the 17mm bolt and tighten the left side pinch. After fixing the left side, you loosen the right again, center things, and then finally tighten the right side pinch bolt. It's totally not what the Internet is telling us, at least the videos I've started to look at. I'm just a shade-tree mechanic, and so having to look stuff for my KTM have given me a different perspective on this. Give the videos a look and make up your own mind.
I haven't made an opinion on removing the calipers yet. It's easy enough to pop them off and likely reduces the chance of scratching something and reduces the number of hands you need re-fitting the wheel.
Three days where is the tyre company Peru
Genuine Comments ha ha. No but I was in France 😂
Very bad audio
Great video 👍 thank you
You’re welcome Daniel