Why you shouldn't put a magnet on your oil filter. **What to do instead!**
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Why putting a magnet on your cars oil filter isn't a good idea. 𝐒𝐩𝐨𝐭 𝐦𝐞 𝐚 𝐝𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐤, 𝐨𝐫 𝐡𝐞𝐥𝐩 𝐦𝐞 𝐭𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐦𝐲 𝐰𝐢𝐟𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐫.
▬ 𝐕𝐞𝐧𝐦𝐨: @roadsiderescueernest 𝑜𝓇 1(801)822-1477
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Magnetism doesnt discriminate based on particle size, filter media does.
A magnet causes no damage, I prefer a drain plug magnet because I can view it easily during an oil change. And yes, it does collect metallic debris in my results.
Doesn't seem like much of an argument against them. Worst case scenario they do nothing. best case scenario they either trap particles or free up more filter medium to catch other dirt.
You'll restrict the flow on your oil filter, and the bypass valve. It's pointless, unless you want a subpar oil filter. Keep it on the drain plug 🔌 or trans. But not an oil filter!
@@CorvetteTrev is there an experiment to prove that?
@@t_c5266 NO. It's bulls**t. The FILTERMAG devices DO NOT restrict oil flow in any way, nor do they have ANY effect on an oil filter's By-Pass Valve.
@@CorvetteTrev
Wrong. Ever seen metallic fragments between 1-20 microns thick? They unobtrusively stick to the walls of the filter can.
@@CorvetteTrev How in the F will magnets "restrict the flow of your oil filter"??? Gunk in your oil filter is what restricts the flow. As @t_c5266 suggests magnets WILL free up the filter medium to catch other dirt. In any case magnets are as cheap as chips. You sure as hell don't need to spend the cost of a beer to apply them. Find a good one on a dead loudspeaker.
If you investigate the micro size our filters catch, it's surprising that small damaging particles do get through our filters can't filter too small because of the flow restriction.
Look up the "bypass oil filters", and the data provided by CAT diesel and their mining equipment. It filters oil by weight, not particle size. Anything smaller than 20mic is not handled by standard filters. That and magnets are awesome tech.
I agree. The great thing about magnets is that they catch ferrous particles of all sizes, even tiny ones. A proper bypass filters setup is very effective too and in a way better since it also catches non ferrous particles, but also much more expensive, bulky, and difficult to install than magnets and the extra complexity and points of potentially catastrophic failure aren't a good trade off in most passenger car applications.
@@averyalexander2303 Actually they catch best the tiniest eheh :)
@@dimmacommunication eheh???
I just had a thought - if you put the magnets all around the drain hole, and then remove them just before a drain, the particles should get flushed out as the oil drains out.
It won't flush the majority of them out. They will remain in the pan and be recirculated with new oil. They don't just stay stuck to the bottom.
Here is a magnet tip for British car owners. Put a large magnet under the rear bumper to pick up the parts that fall off of the car as you drive.
Out of necessity, Chevy invented that years ago.
GM added lock washers and PRESTO! a Pontiac. 😁
@@SlikLizrd 😄🤣
Oil filters typically filter 25 micron particles and larger. Smaller steel particles can still cause wear. Trapping particles on the magnet keeps them out of the filter media so it flows more oil and filters more efficiently. Putting a magnet on the bottom of the oil pan can trap large metal chunks in the engine instead of the disposable filter. If the magnet is scraped off the bottom of the engine, the metal chunks are sprayed into the engine.
@Liberty4Ever you are correct,
Iron particles smaller than 25 microns will flow through the oil and not get trapped in the oil filter, those particles will damage the engine and also damage the oil filter, best to try and trap them with a magnet
Filter only catches 30 micron and larger. Transmissions have magnets already. Better to catch the particles in the filter than the pan so when you pitch the filter you eliminate the metal caught by the magnet.
Allison trans have 2 magnets, one on the external spin on filter. And the filters are down to 15 microns. The magnets always have real fine metal film. Magnets work. Differentials have filters also. The magnet IS the filter.
@@GT-mn3bx
Allison trans have spin on filters?
Do all diff cases have magnets in them?
(On a 94-96 caprice impala specifically?)
What exact magnets you recommend for outside of oil filters?
Where exactly can i buy them?
Thanks
Absolutely.
Most engine oil filters are 20 micron or higher. Allison Transmissions have 2 magnets, one on the spin on filter, and the filters are at 15 micron.
Differentials have a filter also. It is called a magnetic drain plug.
I have neodymium magnets on everything, oil filter, oil pan, trans pan and both differentials. Also in between frame and radiator, and gas tank just before the fuel pump pick up.
Right. Not a bad idea rusty tanks happen
Aren’t you scared that the magnets might stick you to another car?
Look up the "bypass oil filters", and the data provided by CAT diesel and their mining equipment. It filters oil by weight, not particle size. Anything smaller than 20mic is not handled by standard filters. That and magnets are awesome tech.
You should check out other videos of oil filters with the neodymium magnets being cut open. The magnets actually do catch metal that the filter media misses.
Cut open a filter and look at the black soot stuck to the inside of the oil filter can where the magnet was. If it pulled to the inside of the can it is metal that is not filtered and is floating around in your oil. You can rub it off with your finger and feel the very fine grit. I don't want that in my oil and circulating through my engine. I'll stick with my filter mag, because it works.
Not all metal particles in the oil are magnetic.
In fact the softer one's that are most likely to be present generally are not.
Sorry I disagree, GM engineers have tested and stated that most engine wear occurred when there’s 5 or less microns of metal particulate in the oil. No oil filter can filter that low of a micron, if it did, no oil would be able to get back to the engine.
So why didn't they design the magnets into the engine?
Oil is filtered through the oil filter...magnets on a filter holds metal before it’s filtered through the media...do what you want I’m telling you the facts in what I previously wrote. Car manufacturers know that the warranty they give you will expire before your engine gives you problems...look at the warranty they give you, not that great!
@@puregsr Pretty sure they aren't trying to make your car last forever.
@@Aaron86v
Exactly lmfao
@@puregsr +Because the magnets do no good if mounted INSIDE the engine.
The BEST place for your FILTERMAG is on the OUTSIDE of your oil filter, where they are MOST EFFECTIVE.
This Only applies to cars/trucks, large engines with paper type filters. Many small engines only have mesh screens that have Big holes and Need extra protection especially if you your engine needs braking in which will create tons of metal shavings you don't want circulating in your engine.
I disagree. I suggest putting a MagnaFilter disk which screws to the block before you put your filter on. Then put 2 FilterMags on the outside of the filter. You said the metal debris has already traveled through the engine anyway. Well, these magnets are designed to trap the debris so it’s not scoring pistons, bearings, and cams constantly for 3,000 miles until your next oil change. Most filters only filter down to 30 microns. You would need a 2 micron bypass filter to filter metal debris.
100% agree my friend. You are 100% right.
I didnt pay much attention to the type and specs of filters I was using until just recently. I just figured that the parts manufacturers knew what they were doing and there wasn't much of a difference between oil filters because I ASSUMED that they all pretty much work the same.
Let me tell you...taking the time to research and inspect your own filters will pay off because car manufacturers, dealerships, and even part manufacturers don't care enough about the consumer to let them know about engineering or design flaws that could cause premature engine failure. You and I, the consumer, are their cash cow and why would they make an indestructable car or truck engine that never breaks down.
Granted, every vehicle breaks down eventually but you'd be surprised how much longer and farther your engine can go when you spend the time to put quality parts in your engine.
GM should have updated the owners of their 2007 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD's that the AC Delco filters that were originally installed on the engines were potentially causing problems (which is why they told their techs to switch to a better filter) but they never shared that info with the consumers. It also clearly states in the memo that they don't share information with "DIY'ers" (Do it yourselfers) which is a fucking slap in tbe face to every GM truck owner.
You're absolutely right, Im not a freakin ASE certified tech, but you better fucking believe that I want my truck to run right for as long as possible and if GM is gonna withold info they SHOULD be sharing with the owners of their trucks then you damn well better believe Im never gonna have my truck serviced at a GM dealership if I can avoid it.
Don't trust the dealerships. They just want your money in my personal experience. And GM isnt the only dealership Ive had bad experiences with. I had some transmission problems with my 2010 Dodge Caliber and tried to get a new key fob made for my 2015 Dodge Dart and both times the dealership fucking lied to me and tried to rip me off. They wanted me to swap the transmission on the Caliber which was gonna be $4000 when all it needed was a transmission fluid change because CVT tranny on those dodge calibers overheats the tranny fluid and causes the tranny to slip (which is why alot of people put tranny fluid coolers on them, because its a crappy engineering flaw on the design).
I knew what they were trying to do because I did my fucking homework before I went there. So I had the tranny fluid changed which costed about $400 but she ran fine after that. But was better than replacing the tranny at $4000. I could tell they were pissed because they all thought they were gonna trick me and the techs all tried real hard to sell me on the need for a new tranny and then their mood totally changed when I didnt fall for it. But I did my homework and I knew what the real issue was so I wouldnt get screwed.
Next time I had to go to Dodge for a key fob they told me they had to special order the fob for my Dart. Fucking ridiculous, a Dodge dealerships without their own fobs? Are you kidding me? Then they wanted to charge me like $300 just to have the new fob programmed for my car.
I left and found a site online that sells key fobs, found mine, bought it and an extra spare hide a key and bought replacement batferies for like $50. And I found a local locksmith who can program key fobs. Not bad at all.
Dealerships will screw you. Ive never met an honest dealership mechanic. Never.
Do your own homework and find an honest mechanic who actually cares about doing things the right way and taking care of their customers. It pays to do your own homework because I CAN PROMISE YOU...NO ONE WILL EVER CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR AS MUCH AS YOU DO AND DOING ROUTINE MAINTENANCE RIGHT CAN SAVE YOU TENS OF THOUSANDS LATER.
The ONLY WAY a magnet might affect the oil filter bypass valve if it was placed directly on the bottom under the bypass valve and IF the bypass valve psi required to open the valve was low, like 8 or 10 psi. MAYBE. But again, if we are talking about putting magnets on the SIDE OF THE FILTER which is smart...the strength of the magnet cant possibly affect the bypass valve.
Also, think I should mention that the strength or psi rating that the valve SHOULD open at MATTERS. Why? because if the valve is opening prematurely, then all of the gunk which ought to be getting trapped in the pleats of the filter is actually just recirculating in your engine.
I just changed my filter from the reccommended smaller filter with a lower bypass valve opening psi to a slightly longer K&N 1017 which has a better steel core design and a slightly higher bypass valve psi which theoretically should force more of the oil thru the filter media and not just recirculate it thru the bypass valve. Im also going to get some filter magnets. Ive never used them before because I never thought I needed to, but after taking the time to research it on my own Ive concluded that I'm gonna try it because it seems like other people are successfully using magnets to trap small fine metal particles that I really don't want causing damage in my engine.
@@oompaloompa7430 Type MagnaFilter (one word) and watch the TH-cam video of this spin on magnet that spins on before the filter. I use them on all my cars and motorcycles. You will thank me later.
Yes. But how and when can it be cleaned? Or do you throw it away after it's clogged up?
@@steven4894 You throw it away after 50,000 miles. I throw mine away after 20,000. I also add 2 filter mags on the outside of the filter. So I have the Magna filter catching debris before it enters the filter and the filter mags catching anything else for extra precaution.
Putting them on a motorcycle oil filter makes a lot of sense, because our bikes engines share its oil with the transmission!!
Transmission pans already have filters *and* magnets.
If its good enough for transmission, its good enough for the engine.
Well there are plenty of pics showing metal particles captured in oil filters by magnets. Show there is some that stays suspended in the oil. Cleaner is cleaner. Personal choice to use magnets. I bought a plug. I won't put one in the pan unless I need to take off. Next oil change I am getting a plug with a magnet too. True would be great to put on inside too. I got some 1/4 wide, 1/8 thick 2 inch bars.
Filters don't stop as much as you think. Magnets will remove particles that the filter can't....they are beneficial. Putting a magnet on the filter will only help remove those particles, as they do mix with and travel through the engine with the oil. A magnetic plug will only catch some of the particles as they settle down when the engine is shut off. Run an engine for 3000+ miles with a magnet on the filter and drain plug, you'll be amazed at how much debris will get stuck to it...all of that debris makes it past the filter....
You're assuming that all filters are created equal
The magnet thing seems harmless.
I think the best way to get those metal particles out of the system is to place as many neodymium magnets as safely you can on both the oil filter and the oil pan.
Good tip! Thank you, Ernest! AND magnets won"t help with aluminum particles.......most common problem in modern cars!
I put a 5 dollar Home Depot magnet on the bottom of my filter. It always pulls metal out of the oil that may re enter the system.
Don’t put magnets on your filter. The magnets can build a clump of tiny pieces of metal. Google: Champion Aerospace. Scroll down to Oil filters vs Tempest Competitive Analysts and then go to magnets.
@@arthursmith643 Its been proven that without a filter, 5 microns and smaller particles pass through filters and do damage.
@@arthursmith643
AboutMy FathersBusiness
"1988-10-01
Review of Lubricant Contamination and Diesel Engine Wear 881827
Lube oil contamination is a primary-reason for engine wear. The wear processes promoted by oil contamination lead to diminished fuel efficiency, shorter useful oil service life, reduced component life, and loss of engine performance. Contaminant particles responsible for this damage are in the size range of the dynamic lubricant films separating moving engine component surfaces: 10 microns and SMALLER. By making simultaneous contact with opposing surfaces these harmful particles focus the load onto a small area, degrading the surface. This paper reviews the nature of lubricant contamination, the modes of lubrication, and the primary mechanisms of engine wear. The correlation between contamination and wear of engine components, as well as several important studies quantifying the effect of contamination on engine wear and performance, are discussed. It is concluded that operating with clean lube oil, maintained by 10 micron filtration (b10 ≥75), results in a diesel engine having better fuel economy, longer oil change intervals, superior performance, and greater durability.
Yes! That MAY RE-ENTER the system. I wanted to reach thru the screen and slap him across the face when he said "it already made it's way thru your engine to get there".
Yeah, and why let those particulars have multiple opportunities to make MORE particles?
@@kurt5490 Yes; from the pickup screen, oil travels directly to the filter before entering the engine. Anyone ever seen metal in the pan of an automatic transmission. Magnets are placed there for a reason.
You have to admit that the magnet would prevent the particles from clogging your filter, making it last longer.
Google: Champion Aerospace. Scroll down to Champion vs Tempest Competitive Analysts. They will tell you not to use magnets and why. Just use a good quality filter. I personally use Mobil One filters. $10.00 at Walmart. Best oil is clean oil.
If you have enough metal to clog the filter something else is wrong. Also they last way longer than the change interval recommends so longevity isn't typically a worry. But I do agree you can never be too safe or take too much care of your vehicle so if you want to. Go for it!
Not in the slightest. By the time the little bit it catches would even start to accumulate it’s time to change it anyway.
@@pendragonshall clearly you’ve never cut open a filter, or used a magnetic drain plug.
@@ZOANOM You can do whatever you want. Still is useless but won't hurt anything. I'll ignore the smart ass remark
Anyone knocking magnets on an oil filter just simply haven't done any research.
Aren’t the materials likely to shred small particles eg bearings not ferrous and as such they wouldn’t be caught by a magnet
I don't do the magnet thing but most wear metals are going to be small enough to pass through the filter. (Think sludge) If you test your oil it will contain a certain amount of wear metals. Maybe the magnets could collect that stuff?
I could be wrong here based on my understanding of oil flow path in an engine. So please correct me.
You state that the particle has already flowed through the engine and done the damage and that the particles will settle in the oil pan, as one of the reasons why to not put magnets on oil filters.
If I'm not mistaken, oil is pulled up from the pan and sent first to the oil filter before being pumped into the engine. This would mean that the metal particles found in the filter (or caught by the oil filter magnets) were not stopped in the pan. This further means that any particle that isn't stopped by the micron filtering level of the given oil filter (many common engine filters are rated at worse than 90% at 30 micron) will then be sent back into the engine, eventually finding way back into the oil pan where they logically could then be picked back up, sent to rh filter where they are once again not filtered out...continuing this cycle.
I would put like the magnets on both the filter and the drain plug! At least on the filter the particles will be removed from your system once you change the filter. The magnets on the oil pan might keep the fine stuff from circulating, but will remain in your sump until you physically clean it out or flush it out by disconnecting the magnets. Heck, I would even use them in the cooling system and fuel system if possible. LOL
So your saying yes, use magnets but not on a filter?
Mmmkay.
Doesn't hurt....
TL:DR - Really good filters are really good. No reason not to add a magnet.
20microns is what practically all oil filters can filter. The smaller pieces of metal is what acts as an abrasive inside the engine and causes damage. People who actually analyze engine oil and breakdowns already know this is the case. It's a hot topic though online and an easy video for traffic to throw out their opinion based on "it's what I think"
There is absolutely zero downside to adding a magnet. Only upsides. It cost zilch and acts at a distance to complement the filter action. Why be content with less than perfect, when this improvement, however limited, is so easy to make ?
If you put magnets on the bottom of the pan there is no way to guarantee that the metal partecals have actually drained with your old oil. If you believe the pistons moving up and down and any other moving parts in there are not enough to move those "heavy" particals then how would drining the oil be any different? Why even put a magent on the bottom of the pan to begin with? Also have you ever put a magnet on a metal door or something and let it sit there for months? I have noticed that if you do that magnetic (ferromagnetic) dirt or dust gets stuck to the other side of that which is what is expected because it's a maget but my point is if you try to clean that debris off sometimes that dirt or dust gets etched into to that metal door or what ever the magnet is attached too. I would imagin the same happens in the oil pan. Why would you want etched particals at the bottom of the oil pan? They may never come off or maybe it will just break off in one huge chunk later? Breaking off in one huge chuck would probably never happen either but again i ask why would you even preffer that to begin with? If the magnet is on the oil filter you get everything out just by changing the oil filter.
What if I want to put those magnets both on bottom pan but also on filter? And when I change oil I will change filter (with particles inside) and particles in the panel shall be flushed with old oil. How that kind of behavior is wrong and harmful?
I've used magnets since 1967.They work.End of story
the oil comes thru the filter then hits the shell and with magnets on the shell you find gray gunk stuck to the case where clean filtered oil is supposed to be. its not 100 clean if grey matter is coming thru sticking to the magnets
You've got it backwards. The unfiltered oil flows around the outside(inside of the outer shell of the filter housing) of the filter media, then flows thru the media into the inside of the media and the filtered oil is pushed out the center of the threaded end cap.
@@budlanctot3060 if its metallic and the magnet gets it thats a good thing , I had race bikes and Suzuki puts magnets on there tips of the plug nuts for that reason , they know its a good thing .
The problem with your theory is a standard oil filter is generally rated to 10 microns. 10 microns converted to inches is .0039, saying your oilfilter media is fine is a overstatement. Also putting a magnet on your filter of oil pan wont do much of anything. First of all if you put a magnet on the outside of your oil pan the magnets force inside will be very week. Second most of your bearing material is non ferrous. So its non magnetic. A better option would be to run a longer oilfilter. It would do two things, it will increase oil capacity slightly, second more volume inside the filter will decrease the velocity of the oil across the pleats helping the filter media trap and old contaminants while having extra capacity for more contaminants.
Hey good info about longer oil filter
I don't think they make longer ones for LT1 engines?
@@mightywalrus6414 , I'm not familiar with the engine. But a quik Google search would tell you. As long as the gasket inner and outer diameter, and threads are the same. It should work. Just watch for clearance. What part # is the filter your running?
A longer oil filter would help. Good point. 👍
BTW, non-magnetic metals like aluminum, brass, or copper are much "softer" than hard metal bearing surfaces. 😉
All magnets are not the same. People using odd-shaped and janky magnets ain't the answer.
There is a specially-made Oil Filter Magnet available -- FILTERMAG Part # SS365PR -- Fits 3.5 - 4.0 -inch diameter oil filters.
Covers large area of oil filter -- and IT GETS THE METAL OUT !!
It doesn't matter a tinkers damn what shape it is. Any decently strong magnet will do.
@@caretakerfochr3834 NOPE. A magnet made specically for spin-on Oil Filters, such as the Filtermag SS365PR, fits perfectly against the side of a 3.0 - 4.0 inch diameter oil filter.
They make a smaller size for the smaller-diameter spin-on oil filters. I'm not selling them -- I'm saying that THEY WORK, and no other oil filter magnet works as well.
You're free to do whatever you want.😁
@@SlikLizrd Meh. What a SHILL. "Perfect" contact is not obligatory or necessary. Whack one on the bottom of the can or place one or more on the sides. The effect can be achieved for peanuts without any need to blow good money on inflated name brands.
@@caretakerfochr3834 You know what they say -- " You get what you PAY for! " 😁
Why not to add this extra level of filtration to your system as magnets. It's cheap and effective! great topic, thanks
Well, FilterMags are NOT particularly cheap, initially. But they are reusable, so it's a one-time purchase. So over 20 or 30 oil & filter changes(100k -150k miles) the cost of a pair of FilterMags is like $3 - $5 per oil change. During the pandemic, I couldn't get FilterMags, so I bought a bunch of neodymium bar magnets for about $30, which worked just as well, but they weren't nearly as convenient to use.
I have a Sbc with an aluminum pan , how can I install a magnet ?
some filter magnets are built into a ring you can wrap arround the filter
A magnet ON a metal pan??? So what size magnet will be strong enough to hole to the pan >>> AND
It's not the size, it's the strength.
... and you see even more particles with the magnets
Dude ! Very very bad advice! Proper filter magnets work great! And micro fragments do not sink to the bottom of a pan while crank and weights are smashing the piss out of the oil ????
Makes sense
The magnets stick very well on aluminum oil pans don't they? Very weak points man! Just stick it on the filter! What does it hurt.
I'd go with the filter but you could always glue the magnet to the bottom (outside) of your drain pan.
Magnets do not catch non-ferrous metals.
Bearings and pistons are not magnetic!
But piston rings are and THEY wear too.
The magnet next to the sump plug seems like a happy medium as I am fitting the fumoto valve which doesn’t have the magnetic insert.
Yeah....you sound uninformed. A stitch in time save nine. The magnet will sort out micro ferro material while inside a consumable part.
I was having a problem with the oil drain plug on my car leaking. I put some black RTV on the threads and it hasn't leaked since.
Are you using a new crush washer at each oil change?
Great video. Thank you very much.
Are you a petroleum engineer? If so, can you point me to the published SAE paper which backs up your claims? I'm betting you're NOT a professional engineer, and there is no documented proof to your claim. Your position sounds like a sketchy rationalization, which is heavy on your own wild assumptions, not based on facts. I KNOW the magnets work because my riding mower engine oil & oil filter is changed twice a year, and the oil always came out nearly black. I added a pair of FilterMags to the filter, and now my oil changes are light amber. When I cut open the filter, now, there is a black shadow of ferrous dust captured against the inside of the filter housing.
Wouldn't a magnet interfere with the oil filter bypass valve? Yes.
NO !! The FILTERMAG #SS365PR does not interfere with the mechanical operation of the oil filter in any way.
@@SlikLizrd yeah, it definitely does. Don't make me post a link showing you what that does when oil is running through an oil filter. It certainly won't help.
@@CorvetteTrev send the video
@@CorvetteTrev
POST IT!!!
The oil filter bypass valve is only opened when the oil pressure on the filter media exceeds the bypass valve psi settings... Lol
How in the world does a magnet on the side of a filter affect the oil pressure inside of a filter? It doesnt.
I would love to see a video proving me wrong but Im quite sure that one doesnt exist.
What ????
540Rat blog for his professional opinion...
wrenching for 30 years, a mulitude of personal and company cars and a multitude of makes from high end to low end, high low end etc.... you DO NOT NEED TO ADD ANY MAGNETS to any part of the engine, there is a magnet in the sump plug that is enough, I have NEVER had or worn an engine due to metal in the oil.... change the oil at factory specs OR sooner, use a good quality oil and filter and or OEN spec, you will have NO PROBLEMS at all
Wrenching for 30 years !?? Don't approve of Oil Filter Magnets !?? So what !??
I'm 83 -- been wrenching for over 65 years, and am a user of and firm believer in, the benefits of a FILTERMAG # SS365PR, which is a 2-piece magnet kit that attaches to the sides of a spin-on oil filter.
I'm pretty sure that I have A LOT more experience with engines, oils, and oil filters than you have gathered in your 30 years, and I'll say politely that your opinions regarding the filtering of engine oils are remarkably naive.
smart !!
If this is an example of the half assed reasoning he does, I'm Not subscribing.
1) the filter is the perfect place to catch particles. ITS WHAT ITS FOR!
2) the oil pan is not a good place for magnets. The drain plug yes. Because you can completely remove it and clean it. What are you going to do, remove the oil pan every oil change to clean it?
3) NO, draining the oil does NOT remove all the metal particles. Just like how soap residue sticks to the sides of the tub when the water is drained.
Oy vay!
1. Remove the magnets 🧲 on the bottom of your oil pan first.
2. Remove your oil filler cap and oil dipstick to maximize air-oil displacement.
3. Remove oil drain bolt. The force of the oil leaving the pan will easily wash away and drain out any metallic/sludge debris at the bottom of the oil pan.
No one expects perfection. But 99% elimination would be pretty acceptable for most people.