Really like your videos and the presentation. Not unlike my own on HackawekTV. :) I'm working on a restoration of a 1925 Holton alto sax currently. Completely disassembled, tone holes leveled after some soldering of a few that had lifted. Removed all old shellac from key cups today. They're a mess. Lots of straightening on a bench anvil required. I liked your "inherent key adjustment" video. That's my next step before re-padding. Doing this myself really makes me appreciate what techs charge to do this kind of work. Many hours and focus required and a vast collection of tools. You are a craftsman. :)
Matt, if you want to grip something in a vice tightly without marring the finish get yourself a set of lead jaws to line your vice. Essentially they are two thick pieces of lead bent in an L shape that fit over each jaw of the vice. Imagine what would happen if you put a threaded rod into a vice and did it up tight. Do the same thing with lead jaws fitted and you wouldn't fold the threads over - you'd just end up with an impression of the threads left in the lead.
+OPHYCLIDE Thanks for commenting! I used to have some lead jaws. Some guys also use delrin sheets. I've used hardwood pieces in the past as I happen to have a bunch of hardwood scraps laying around. I've found that for straightening long key arms like in this video though, there is a noticeable difference if you use something soft in the jaws- all the tiny little wiggles and stuff stay in, and the key doesn't end up looking actually straight. So unless I'm working on a horn with a delicate finish or a horn that is in otherwise extremely good aesthetic condition, I have been typically using the jaws uncovered. Of course, the jaws need to be absolutely smooth and straight, hence the machinists vise. But there is certainly more than one way to do this, and most likely my own way will continue to evolve along with the rest of my repair procedures.
Very nice Matt. I went to a (what we called in the UK a senior school, 11 to 16 years) school where they were big on metalwork, and our first assignment was to make liners for the vice. We cut out a pattern from sheet metal, using snips. They had flaps over the top and round the side. It was a very long time ago, so I cant remember whether we used tin or aluminum, but I used mine for 5 years.
I basically straighten keys the same way; I've made jaw liners out of annealed brass that drop in place on my main bench vise. You mentioned, but didn't show how you flatten key cups...have you figured a way that doesn't slightly flatten the dome?
Hi Matt! Great video. I don't know if you are still working on instruments or not, these posts are a little old, but several of the other commenters touch on a subject that you might want to comment on if for no other reason than future visitors might find the information of value (as might I, hint hint). As it concerns straightening instrument keys (my interest is in oboes, but my question is more general), what kind of key material might be found on, say, late 1800's instruments compared with 1950's or 1960's key material, as well as any difference in material that might be found on 'professional' type instrument keys? How would you approach straightening an older key compared with later date keys, or even more recent instrument keys?
Hi, so, did you ever restore that couesnon you talked about? Would really like to see it, I'm starting on on an alto couesnon, circa 1920, and would be great to see a reference. Thanks!!!!
Hi Mat I have a silver Buescher c the linkage protruding over the top to activate the neck linkage is bent more than 45 degree's from vertical I think I should anneal it before bending how can I tell when it is hot enough and should I quench it as with aluminum
+katterberry thanks! As of this writing (March 2016) not for a while, unless you are local and in need of less than an overhaul. My previous clients (including getasax.com) keep me pretty busy, and since I'm a one man shop it doesn't take a whole lot to keep me busy for a long time.
Matt, nice video. A question: do you ever worry about cracking the key when it's obvious it's been bent several times already? I guess it depends on how brittle a given alloy is; are some brands easier for straightening keys than others?
Not with a range of movement this small. But with a major, sharp bend? Yes, it is a concern, although you could anneal it before bending- though that would damage the finish.
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Really like your videos and the presentation. Not unlike my own on HackawekTV. :) I'm working on a restoration of a 1925 Holton alto sax currently. Completely disassembled, tone holes leveled after some soldering of a few that had lifted. Removed all old shellac from key cups today. They're a mess. Lots of straightening on a bench anvil required. I liked your "inherent key adjustment" video. That's my next step before re-padding. Doing this myself really makes me appreciate what techs charge to do this kind of work. Many hours and focus required and a vast collection of tools. You are a craftsman. :)
Matt, if you want to grip something in a vice tightly without marring the finish get yourself a set of lead jaws to line your vice.
Essentially they are two thick pieces of lead bent in an L shape that fit over each jaw of the vice.
Imagine what would happen if you put a threaded rod into a vice and did it up tight. Do the same thing with lead jaws fitted and you wouldn't fold the threads over - you'd just end up with an impression of the threads left in the lead.
+OPHYCLIDE Thanks for commenting! I used to have some lead jaws. Some guys also use delrin sheets. I've used hardwood pieces in the past as I happen to have a bunch of hardwood scraps laying around. I've found that for straightening long key arms like in this video though, there is a noticeable difference if you use something soft in the jaws- all the tiny little wiggles and stuff stay in, and the key doesn't end up looking actually straight. So unless I'm working on a horn with a delicate finish or a horn that is in otherwise extremely good aesthetic condition, I have been typically using the jaws uncovered. Of course, the jaws need to be absolutely smooth and straight, hence the machinists vise.
But there is certainly more than one way to do this, and most likely my own way will continue to evolve along with the rest of my repair procedures.
Thanks Matt James H
Very nice Matt. I went to a (what we called in the UK a senior school, 11 to 16 years) school where they were big on metalwork, and our first assignment was to make liners for the vice. We cut out a pattern from sheet metal, using snips. They had flaps over the top and round the side. It was a very long time ago, so I cant remember whether we used tin or aluminum, but I used mine for 5 years.
I basically straighten keys the same way; I've made jaw liners out of annealed brass that drop in place on my main bench vise. You mentioned, but didn't show how you flatten key cups...have you figured a way that doesn't slightly flatten the dome?
Hey Matt, how would you suggest going about, straightening the key cup if it is bent on the edge?
Hi Matt! Great video. I don't know if you are still working on instruments or not, these posts are a little old, but several of the other commenters touch on a subject that you might want to comment on if for no other reason than future visitors might find the information of value (as might I, hint hint).
As it concerns straightening instrument keys (my interest is in oboes, but my question is more general), what kind of key material might be found on, say, late 1800's instruments compared with 1950's or 1960's key material, as well as any difference in material that might be found on 'professional' type instrument keys?
How would you approach straightening an older key compared with later date keys, or even more recent instrument keys?
Hi, I wonder to buy a bench vise like the one in the video. Where I can to buy on internet. Thanks
Hi, so, did you ever restore that couesnon you talked about? Would really like to see it, I'm starting on on an alto couesnon, circa 1920, and would be great to see a reference. Thanks!!!!
th-cam.com/video/Qd0yV83erQ4/w-d-xo.html
Different era than yours, but may be enough similarities to be of use.
muito bom as dicas; obrigado pela humildade em passarnos os macetes
Anyone know how to fix a vent swivel bar?
Hi Mat I have a silver Buescher c the linkage protruding over the top to activate the neck linkage is bent more than 45 degree's from vertical I think I should anneal it before bending how can I tell when it is hot enough and should I quench it as with aluminum
Awesome video. Thank you. By the way, when will you accept new clients for overhaul work or general maintenance?
+katterberry thanks! As of this writing (March 2016) not for a while, unless you are local and in need of less than an overhaul. My previous clients (including getasax.com) keep me pretty busy, and since I'm a one man shop it doesn't take a whole lot to keep me busy for a long time.
Matt, nice video. A question: do you ever worry about cracking the key when it's obvious it's been bent several times already? I guess it depends on how brittle a given alloy is; are some brands easier for straightening keys than others?
Not with a range of movement this small. But with a major, sharp bend? Yes, it is a concern, although you could anneal it before bending- though that would damage the finish.
what is your opinion on the selmer refrance 54
any idea where i can get snap on pads for a true-tone alto?
Musicmedic.com maybe or maybe not
Theres a 110 ways to skin a cat .
What ever way it takes is fine, as long as the outcome brings in back to original .