The 7.3 Powerstroke On 24's Gets a FULL Cooling System Upgrade!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2019
- We had some issues with high oil temps on the F350 so we got some upgraded parts from mishimoto and some OEM stuff to try and fix our issue. Will it work?
P.O Box;
Taylor Ray
12472 Lake Underhill Rd #203,
Orlando, Fl, 32828
Thanks to all who support me on Patreon! - www.patreon.com/taylordrifts?...
FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM
ME - / taylordrifts
ALSO ON TWITTER / taylordrifts
Snapchat: taylorsaysdrift
Background Music by Bonus Points
/ tracks
Let me know what you thought of this video! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I know this is a drifting channel but im really enjoying the truck videos and im not a truck guy 🤣
I'm not a car or drifting guy but this is a quality auto channel.
Your coolant shouldn't be 240 cruising around. 200-220 oil temp cruising is normal. If your coolant is really that hot it will heat your oil up because of the coolant to oil heat exchanger. Check your actual coolant Temps.
Coolant should be around 185°. Oil temps shouldn't be much more than 15° over coolant without a load on it
@@cookatktown stop it
You should've definitely cut that oil cooler in half so we can see what's inside! Great vid as always!
Okay, a few things to clarify because I did a bad job of explaining in the video. lol
1. The ECU does not get a coolant temp reading from what I understand. I was trying to explain that the coolant temp on the SCT is useless for that reason.
2. Reason I was worried about it being at 210 around town is that's what it was at before replacing the factory cooler which means it'll probably be very high with the trailer again. Won't know until we try though.
3. When I say buy the cheapest aftermarket parts. I'm referring to OEM style replacement parts. Not upgraded parts.
4. I ended up putting a tarp on the miata before it rained that day. I forgot I had one. lol
"I firmly believe in factory parts" he says while replacing everything with Mishimoto parts. Lol.
Mishimoto is the tits though
Aftermarket manufacturers are allowed to manufacture parts up to 60% of the factory spec and call it "OEM". Some parts stores use different standards. For Fords the closest you can get to a factory match is Napa, they manufacture up to 90% of factory spec. Other than that there's no replacement for the factory parts. Remember, aftermarket parts are "manufactured", Factory parts are engineered. Unless of course you are talking about performance replacements.
Now that’s a badass truck! Content has been killer too man I love the garage videos!
oil is being both heated by the coolant and then kept at a reasonable percentage of what coolant temp is at.
so if you have 210 degree coolant then it will help the oil to reach 210 degrees.
when towing under a load the oil will then heat up higher than coolant temp and the coolant will be working to cool down the oil temp.
an external oil cooler will be the only way to lower engine oil temps further.
if the oil temps stay under 300 degrees you should never have a problem.
incorrect engine oil in the 7.3 will foam and cause the temps rise.
rotella diesel oil is the best choice for making the engine to last.
Yeah what this guy said
Yup. Rotella t4 FTW.
Check it JR Garage they just did a ton of shit to help keep oil temps down.
New formulation Rotella is 💩. Much better options out there.
@@kylesonsalla7620 agreed
The number one killer of all diesel engines is the radiator cap. Make sure it's allowing the proper spring pressure
and a "new cap" doesn't mean a thing, TEST it. Especially if not OEM.
Time for a new water pump buddy.
After reading all the comments you need to: Replace all the things.
tony zooks I come to the comments just to see all the arm chair mechanics. You are right at this point just replace everything
I had the exact same problem... Ended up being my head gasket.... Would slowly heat up over time more and more, replaced about $2500 in parts before I determined it. Did a leakdown test and found very slight bubbling in the antifreeze.... It took about 20 min of the test before we could see it. Passenger headgasket had a leak between coolant passage and head. It ran so good had no other symptoms except it just ran hotter than it should have.
would a head gasket cause higher oil temp? i thought that would mainly be a coolant temp problem
QuagHower ahhhhhh I was mistaken I thought it was coolant temp. You are correct
QuagHower good point! Lol
People could be liking it because they are being helpful, well trying to be.
@QuagHower I said trying to be helpful.
The trans cooler for the 6.0 is exactly the same as the one for the 7.3 and they are usually in stock. They just don't come with the hose that drops it from 1/2" to 3/8". I just bought a brass reducer from my local fitting shop and used regular hose. It actually better to do it that way in case you hose ever fails...you don't need to find the fancy reducer hose. All you'll need is 3/8" and 1/2" regular hose.
~jw
Dont get carried away until you pull the trailer some more. The coolant cant pull heat out of the oil until the oil surpasses the coolant temp since the coolant is what cools the oil. You may have fixed it
we dont know the coolant temps, coolant cools the oil so if your coolant temps are 210 then the oil will reach 210. Running a cooler thermostat could help his cause if he's that concerned with that oil temp.
I believe the thermostat in my 7.3 opens around 205F. Like you said, get a load on it first.
You need some of those late 70s early 80s NBA headbands
Dude!!! Garage Built headbands!!! Taylor!!! I’ll buy 10+ if you make them :)
Did you check the water pump bearing for play? If you need a water pump only use oem they last min 100k
@QuagHower he doesn't know what that temp is so for all we know it could be
@QuagHower how so
My dummy gauge in my 02 mustang doesn't work to well.. don't rely on it the sct says 180° and the gauge is still on cold and when it gets hot sitting in traffic 215° plus it still sits in normal. Take almost 5 mins for it to register over normal.. don't know why they couldn't just put an actual working gauge in. Same with oil pressure anything over 5psi shows normal
Water pump can work just fine with slop in the bearing but once it starts to go it will throw a belt and leave you standed. being as far deep in to the build id put a new oem water pump and belt on for added reliability in the long run
Money rolls, cars and clothes, powerstrokes on 24's!!
I definitely told you about the oven cleaner trick. I've been using that for years. Work great and is safe on anything metal that's been long term dirty.
"Can't complain about that." Gotta love that attitude.
I'm not into trucks but I think I could watch you modify just about anything. Next video Taylor mods a toaster, I'm in!
Keep plugging at it man, you will figure it out!
Dude put the miata in the trailer ?
I think the FC is in there.
Or put a cover over it
The question is whether it was running hot because the cooling system had failed in some way, or if it was hot because some issue was overwhelming the cooling system. You can upgrade cooling all you want, but if there is an underlying issue, you'll still get a failure. Sort of like just putting a higher amp fuse in place of one that keeps blowing instead of finding the source of the short.
That fan clutch should be replaced too. I chased a similar issue. It was the fan clutch
Pro tip grab a 8$ blue plastic pool from walmart and use to drain coolant when doing larger jobs.
@Taylor Ray , such a strange issue.... def would of thought the cooling system refresh would of fixed it. I wish you better truck luck! keep up the awesome content as always!
You need a top creeper! Switch to the later turbo already!!!! Glad to see the cooling going in.
I have the same roll around tall coolant/oil catch for under the lift.
If you have drained yours then you know how much it sucks when you shut ioff the air and it keeps flowing with the air hooked to it.
You should consider cutting off the curved drain and just clamping a pipe and ball valve on the end.
It’s the best thing I’ve done for mine. You can leave the air turned on and just shut the valve when going from one canister to another while emptying it out.
Loving the 7.3 Powerstroke on 24’s content
My go to channel when I want to learn something. My favorite fabricator.
Taylor have a look at the vicous coupling for the clutch fan. We had the same problem with a truck here in Australia, it would creep up in temperature on a motorway at constant rpm but cool down when we got off the motorway. After changing the viscous coupling the results was night and day, never overheated since
Really loving the videos of your 7.3 Powerstroke on 24’s. Super enjoyable to watch. What’s that light you had on the underside of your hood while working?
GET IN!!! Waiting for this
Really enjoying the truck content
You need to use the old top rad hose because that hose is made go around the belt so if a belt breaks you won't have to take off the radiator hose and thats just a big pain.
I wouldn't trust that sct tuner for your gauges hook up a maual oil temp gauge
I wonder if the oil pick up tube has any obstructions. That gasket worm coming out of the cooler seemed out of place...so what could be elsewhere through out the engine?
Still, great looking truck and it looks as if it just needs some long overdue TLC from Taylor.
Taylor always inspires me to keep wrenching on my pos hooptys
For some reason the video quality looks amazing
I've had 2 mishimoto radiators and both have failed. First out of the box was twisted, Second developed a pin hole after 3- 4 years Run stock. I dropped a wrench on the stock one made it 18 years.
If the ecm thinks it -32° then it will be dumping fuel trying to warm itself up. Hence your overtemp issue
BaT4R auto trucks don’t have a ECT sensor, the plug in the PCM that it would tap into is used for trans temp on an auto
Really nice looking truck I plan to soon have the same
Set up . I’m either buying a dually or a hummer
Hard start hot on 7.3l and 6.0l are typically caused by a leak in the high pressure oil system. If both your coolant temp and oil temp are hot, then it's a cooling system issue and the whole system is hot. If just oil is hot, then there is likely a restriction to the cooler since it's been changed.
Also, the coolant temp should show -40*f when there is an open, so it shouldn't be showing -130
Just cover the miata sidewindow with a plastic bag/trash bag and some ducttape or something to keep it dry outside until you fix the windowseals.
It was funny when Taylor was pulling and poking on the seals...they are way beyond hope...Just need to replace them with intact ones.
Or simply put a tarp over it.........
@@gtfkt true, but if he doesn't have a spare right away a trashbag would work fine, cant imagine he doesn't have those.
Walmart sells tarps for that miata... that and a pop-up canopy for $50 ... would keep that sun and rain off ya while working outside. Plus if you have a harbor freight nearby they sell a 10 Ft. X 17 Ft. Portable Garage. Small / cheap things that could go a long way in helping you this summer! 😎👍
Love this truck man
I prefer the non-fuel 3/8" ratchet. It fits into spaces as small as the fuel 1/4" and it's just a bigger head for more versatile use.
The new truck is a freaking sick
Tom's Turbo Garage is where I heard about the oven cleaner trick. I think it was about 5 - 6yrs ago. It's definitely a huge timesaver.
Normal operating oil temps range from 215-225 loaded or unloaded. Dont worry too much about it until you see it climb over 240 again.
Have you tryed the torque pro app and a Bluetooth obd2 reader. Works super well for monitoring temps with you phone. Will record highs and lows as well. Might be worth checking out
Also use hotshot secret it makes your truck run way quieter and way smoother its a additive that helps the heui style injectors i use it in my 7.3 i and i got 427k on stock motor now i have put injectors in it once
Taylor, I did a bunch of reading on several 7.3 and Diesel forums and most say they see temps ranging from 186 to 240 degrees with varying conditions. Southern trucks see higher temperatures cruising around town (220 deg.) and towing (240 deg.). Northern climates see lowers temps in both scenarios.
That's not to say there isn't an issue, just that the temperature ranges varies across a variety of models that use the 7.3. You seem to be within the average of what I've read, but again, that might not indicate the lack of a problem.
Bryan Coleman as long as his oil isn’t foaming and his coolant isn’t spewing out he’s good
just put a cover on the miata? :PPP
or put it inside lol. enough space. (on some trolleys and put it in the corner).
Or put it in the trailer.
Buy a $200+/- poly tent with sides and bolt it to the concrete.
Done.
tony zooks why?he has a garage, it’s not too much work to pull it in and out as needed.
Harbor freight tarp is like 8 bucks....
Taylor I had a similar issue after a thermostat change and it turned out being the little pressure relief air check was clock at 6 o’clock and it was not let air out. I reclocked the thermostat and it dropped 20 degrees. May be worth checking.
@Taylor Ray I found this online in a forum about thermostat and eot. Running a 203* stat I see 197 at the HPOP driving around town, 210 unloaded at 75 mph, as high as 220 in the summer lightly loaded at 75 mph. Like Brandon said 10-15 miles to get to temp, although the idiot gauge indicates "at temp" at around 145.
would've replaced the fan clutch too while you're at it
It's a clutch fan
Also....check out the 203* thermostat from dieselsite.com. International designed the 7.3 to run at 200*. Ford just re purposed a thermostat that they already had. I put one in mine and it quieted the crackle of the motor around town, it runs smoother and gets better fuel mileage. While your at it...throw in a billet thermostat housing from Riffraff or dieselsite. The stock steel ones corrode and leak.
Very nice stuff. I saw a Visco clutch on the fan, or is this an electric one. Maybe when this clutch is bad, there's not enough airflow through the coolers. Old BMW has this problem very often. When then fan clutch is fine you must hear very loud fan noise when the car is on operation temp.
15:40 I dont know what hand cleaner you use but I have found Snapon nitro gold to be the best hand cleaner ever. It only takes a drop and will take the nastiest black smudge off. It also is water friendly like you can use it with wet hands.
Helpful hint when doing an oil change on your 7.3. Stab a hole in the bottom of the oil filter before removing it it will help keep you and your floor cleaner.
Some times a bad hpop or leaking oring will cause a constant internal leak and over heat the fluid I'm a 6.0 guy so ive been thru it all
It's definitely a hpop I had the same issue with three 7.3's
Hpop for sure
Hi Have you had your 6.0 running rough at idle because my truck is running rough when I idle but when I give it gas is doing good once I let go of the gas it starts wanting to die after two minutes of doing that it turns off
Lane Hittle and the messed up part is it’s not throwing a check engine light
what if that SCT Tuner is just inaccurate? its not logging ECT correctly, maybe the EOT is incorrect?
Geoff Vince you don’t get ECT on an automatic 7.3 only certain 6 speeds had it
There's a tutorial on how to fix that leaking window situation. I used it on my Kirklin hardtop. You use the rails from a soft top and screw them to the hardtop then put in the weatherstripping and then it seals properly. I think the tutorial was based on a red bestop hardtop.
It's been that way in Tennessee it's nice everyday and then it rains just long enough to mess up all my plans lol
I know what you mean lol I live in Tennessee as well
I love my milwaukee's I have the 3/8s and 1/2. 3/8s being used most of the time.
You oil temp are about right, under normal driving I see just over 200*, when towing maybe 220* but that's on really hot days pulling in the mountains. I would not run anything but the Ford Green coolant with the SCA, that fluid you added might start screwing up the seals in the engine, and then you will be replacing injector o rings. Someone suggested changing the HPOP oil, not necessary as it will be circulated with the new oil, its a waste of time, but if you want to its you're time.
Taylor the oil temp being around 200 degrees is about normal operating temp being how hot is is in florida, but your scanner was showing almost 240 degree coolant temps which that is way high, so might want to check your coolant temp sensor and thermostat.
We're did you get the steps for the Superduty and do they mount to the frame thanks
does ur fan clutch turn on? if it doesnt that could be a reason
Look into ForScan. I used it on both of mine and loved it.
I’d recommend dielectric grease on your o rings anything petroleum based will make the orings swell and rupture
As someone else mentioned, get the upper radiator hose for a DUAL Alternator setup, this runs the hose behind the belt and will save you the heartache of having to drain the radiator to change the belt.
Want Subaru content 😢 but love these videos too
You could get a lower temp thermostat it helps a lot when driving but it will probably be fine since you get the radiator and plus the other stuff it should stay way cooler with updated stuff
Do the big 3 upgrade. It's a stereo system upgrade. U add 2 grounds and 1 positive from alternator to battery. Works amazing on how it helps your vehicle operate better.
Your welcome Taylor the oven cleaner is old school trick
My early 99 7.3 oil temp at cruising speeds is normally around 215-225ish (in the Texas summer heat) I do have a 203 degree therm, but from what I've heard and read on forums its pretty normal to be around those temps.
I really want the 2011 body style but I don’t want a truck with def . Any suggestions ?
If your temp reading jumps all over the place - you better check the wiring and grounds around that sensor..
Regarding oil temps - 200-220 is absolutely fine for any engine. Oil Temps should be near or above water boiling point to get rid of any moisture from the oil.
For the coolant temp sensor. You need to go buy an oem ford one and install it. Someone probably replaced it with an aftermarket sensor and they NEVER work. I tried all of them. Just buy the oem ford coolant temp sensor and it will 100% work
Best advice i can give you is buy a little plaatic kid pool from like walmart. Catches most or all of the coolant or whatever your doing and saves from a bug mess on the floor
210 oil temp isn’t a bad number, it is going to be around the same temp as your coolant during normal driving. When towing the oil temp will rise a little higher than that. I did see your coolant temp was 240, you need to check your engine fan clutch, that truck should stay between 200-220 and should never go above 220 when driving around. The engine fan should kick on somewhere around 212 give or take a few degrees. I don’t think you have an oil cooling problem but I do think you have a coolant temp problem and since you just put a new radiator in and thermostat the only culprits are the engine fan and the water pump. You would know if it was the high pressure oil pump, those trucks will crank a while before firing up if the hpop is going out. That’s a sick looking truck man. Get everything fixed up now and she won’t let you down in the future, those 7.3 diesels were really good trucks
U need a spring clamp house clamp tool, they are so GREAT!!!
Beautiful truck.
Hey Taylor I'm a truck driver and my kenworth doesn't like Rotella oil I had the same problem with high oil temperature so I'm running Delo oil you should try that
Those spring clamps have a tool you can buy off Amazon, worth its weight in gold...
I have this truck so I will be checking out your channel
Pro tip, diesel oil gets black super quick. Couple hundred miles and it will look like it's never been changed.
Depends on ring gap..... Gapless rings keeps the carbon out of the crank case leaving oil looking fresh for 2000 miles
@@cookatktown no engines come from factory with gapless rings
@@CJBMAGGOT94 who the hell is paying for factory motors?
@@cookatktown People who aren't dumb as hell and want something reliable that just works.
@@CJBMAGGOT94 now you are showing your ignorance......
Once a year I use dielectric grease on my t top seals in my z32 to keep them fat and in good shape. You can try smearing some on your window seals and leave them overnight and see if it helps seal your window better.
What’s your thermostat at ? Your oil temp minimum will be whatever your block temp is. I say that because my t stat in my Jeep is 210.
Looks good
The hard starting at temp is very likely the hpop, when the oil is up to temp it is “thinner” I use quotations bc I don’t remember the technical term for it but when the hpop is going that is one of the signs( not saying this is definitely the problem bc I’m not a ford tech and I haven’t personally worked on a 7.3 but I have been around diesels my entire life and many of my friends have had 7.3 power strokes with very similar problems and that was the issue)
You know you could use your oil recovery has a suction function,,, that red drum on wheels with the funnel on top? I have the exact same unit and when you mentioned not being able to lift the drain pan, I saw it and thought hmmm, why not just suck it out with the recovery tank?
Good video anyway :)
If the engine coolant temperature sensor is faulty I could also control the oil cooler thermostat. Maybe not opening correctly?
Nothing opens the oil cooler
junkey55 yes there is.. don’t comment if uneducated on the subject
Markus Luukko there is one. Don’t comment if you don’t know anything on the subject. I own this same truck.
Northwerks Garage lmao WHERE is there a OIL thermostat🤣 you’re dumber than a nail.
Northwerks Garage you’re an idiot, you defended a dude who said there’s an oil thermostat and now you say there is no such thing. You sound like a 15 year old girl
Oil temp is ok up to 220 thats normal if it goes any higher then you might have a problem. If truck coolant is getting to hot it will raise oil temps to a temp it seems like its getting to high, So check you water pump to make sure theres good flow, Maybe the thermostat is not opening fully. I feel bad for you taylor you just cant go without working on these trucks... Keep up the good work hopefully you figure it out soon.
Oil temp should be 20-40 above coolant max. Your coolabt temp is high.
Chek icp pressure when restarting minimum 500 psi to start
Yeah seems like the coolant temp was quite high so I’d try waterpump before that try to hook up to another scanner
Always use plumber's silicon grease for O-rings nothing works better they slide right in every time bro 👌
You know assembly lube on the oil cooler o-rings is a lifesaver
Best way to get the oil cooler caps on is a ratchet strap and some petroleum jelly on the o rings