Glad to see your SRS light issue has cleared, just wait for it to come back on mysteriously a few months later when you haven't touched anything, or just as you are about to take it for the MOT. Mine does this every few months, managed to luck it through the MOT this year though.
I’ve replaced the OEM connectors under the seat with some nice eBay jobs and never had a problem since. Worth a couple of hours’ work on a nice afternoon.
Hi Lee, I have had the SRS light come on twice in my car, just pushed the plug together and its been fine since. Glad to see you doing the welding yourself, good luck!
On the welding Lee, I’d also say, only weld with gas, Argon/CO2 - from MachineMart probably. If you can stretch to it, get an auto-dimming helmet. Watch loads of TH-cam and practice on scraps. Small welds spaced apart, letting them cool, then join up the dots. Finally, the hardest thing I’ve found is being able to see my welding as I’m doing it, so make sure there’s strong light on the subject. I’ve never tried to weld under a car - so good luck with that🤞BTW, thanks for the brake pipe vid - it galvanised me into action and have just done mine.
The SRS light is self-resolving. Have the same with my under-seat wiring (passenger side). I just jiggle the connectors occasionaly to keep the light from coming on lol. Really can't be bothered soldering under the seat, or even taking the seats out for a light, unless it's permanently on. :)
Hi mate, there's a guide on how many clicks the handbrake should be and how to properly adjust it. You got to put the back on stands then check the drag on 1 click. SRS light usually comes on when you disturb the cables under the seats so makes sense it went off. Great vids as always mate
I've been subbed since the start of the year. I'm planning on saving a rare monogram MG TF soon and your videos will be super helpful for when I start working on it 🙌🏻 also with tiktok it really depends on the algorithm and luck. Someone can spend hours on a video for 20 views yet Someone filming a funny ant could get 10 million 😂
The cable under the seat is for the seat belt pretensioner. Like the airbag, it has a little explosive charge that tightens up the belt in a collision. Best thing to do is first disconnect the battery, wait 15 mins, then unplug, clean, replug, reconnect the battery. There may have been some muck shifting when the seat was moved. A word about welding; get a mask with light sensing filter AND a very very bright lamp. Even with it in the green see through position (before you make a spark) it's very hard to get that first touch in the right place, and then keep it touching when you move it, when you can't see in that first fraction of a second.
Thanks a lot. I have precisely the same problem with my handbrake and the warning red light. How did you manage to pull out that compartment? Mine seems to be stuck and I’m reluctant to force it too much as old plastic could be brittle and break. I unscrewed the two screws at the front. Is there anything else that holds that compartment down?
Word of warning re the handbrake adjustment (this is from experience) keep checking for overheating in the rear callipers, there is a very good chance that the issue is with the handbrake mechanism in the calliper and not the cable stretching. This in turn makes it look like slack in the cable making the issue worse at the calliper end, eventually the handbrake can suddenly without warning seize on fully, I ended up destroying a perfectly good set of pads and discs. One way of checking is to wind the calliper piston back into the calliper, it should go back in easily, any resistance probably means the calliper needs rebuilding or replacing.
@@drjoannagoodman The wheel will be hotter than the others after a drive, the disc be also start to discolour. Another pointer is a loss of fuel economy and sluggish acceleration. When my TF’s right rear calliper locked up it was like driving with an elephant sitting on the boot and disc turned cherry red.
@@tides2002 Thank you for your kind reply. I haven’t noticed any of it. There is a bit of play and when I press down on the handbrake, the warning light goes off. I think just a minor adjustment is needed - when I manage to lift that little compartment, which seems firmly stuck 😊
Thanks for this one Lee, see you in the next one
Thanks man I have the same handbrake issue!
And I have on mgf😂 Thanks
Fantastic. Thanks Lee.
I massively enjoy and look forward to your videos Lee. Keep ‘em coming!
Good wee welders to start out with, don’t use gasless, much cleaner weld with gas, good luck!
Glad to see your SRS light issue has cleared, just wait for it to come back on mysteriously a few months later when you haven't touched anything, or just as you are about to take it for the MOT. Mine does this every few months, managed to luck it through the MOT this year though.
I’ve replaced the OEM connectors under the seat with some nice eBay jobs and never had a problem since. Worth a couple of hours’ work on a nice afternoon.
Hi Lee, I have had the SRS light come on twice in my car, just pushed the plug together and its been fine since. Glad to see you doing the welding yourself, good luck!
On the welding Lee, I’d also say, only weld with gas, Argon/CO2 - from MachineMart probably. If you can stretch to it, get an auto-dimming helmet. Watch loads of TH-cam and practice on scraps. Small welds spaced apart, letting them cool, then join up the dots. Finally, the hardest thing I’ve found is being able to see my welding as I’m doing it, so make sure there’s strong light on the subject. I’ve never tried to weld under a car - so good luck with that🤞BTW, thanks for the brake pipe vid - it galvanised me into action and have just done mine.
The SRS light is self-resolving. Have the same with my under-seat wiring (passenger side). I just jiggle the connectors occasionaly to keep the light from coming on lol. Really can't be bothered soldering under the seat, or even taking the seats out for a light, unless it's permanently on. :)
Hi mate, there's a guide on how many clicks the handbrake should be and how to properly adjust it. You got to put the back on stands then check the drag on 1 click. SRS light usually comes on when you disturb the cables under the seats so makes sense it went off. Great vids as always mate
Thanks my handbrake is doing exactly the same thing
I've been subbed since the start of the year. I'm planning on saving a rare monogram MG TF soon and your videos will be super helpful for when I start working on it 🙌🏻 also with tiktok it really depends on the algorithm and luck. Someone can spend hours on a video for 20 views yet Someone filming a funny ant could get 10 million 😂
The cable under the seat is for the seat belt pretensioner. Like the airbag, it has a little explosive charge that tightens up the belt in a collision. Best thing to do is first disconnect the battery, wait 15 mins, then unplug, clean, replug, reconnect the battery. There may have been some muck shifting when the seat was moved.
A word about welding; get a mask with light sensing filter AND a very very bright lamp. Even with it in the green see through position (before you make a spark) it's very hard to get that first touch in the right place, and then keep it touching when you move it, when you can't see in that first fraction of a second.
Thanks a lot. I have precisely the same problem with my handbrake and the warning red light. How did you manage to pull out that compartment? Mine seems to be stuck and I’m reluctant to force it too much as old plastic could be brittle and break. I unscrewed the two screws at the front. Is there anything else that holds that compartment down?
Word of warning re the handbrake adjustment (this is from experience) keep checking for overheating in the rear callipers, there is a very good chance that the issue is with the handbrake mechanism in the calliper and not the cable stretching. This in turn makes it look like slack in the cable making the issue worse at the calliper end, eventually the handbrake can suddenly without warning seize on fully, I ended up destroying a perfectly good set of pads and discs. One way of checking is to wind the calliper piston back into the calliper, it should go back in easily, any resistance probably means the calliper needs rebuilding or replacing.
How do you check for overheating rear callipers?
@@drjoannagoodman The wheel will be hotter than the others after a drive, the disc be also start to discolour. Another pointer is a loss of fuel economy and sluggish acceleration. When my TF’s right rear calliper locked up it was like driving with an elephant sitting on the boot and disc turned cherry red.
@@tides2002 Thank you for your kind reply. I haven’t noticed any of it. There is a bit of play and when I press down on the handbrake, the warning light goes off. I think just a minor adjustment is needed - when I manage to lift that little compartment, which seems firmly stuck 😊
Bravo
I had the srs issue if i have the passenger seat all the way back but goes off when passenget seat is a few clicks forward if anyone has that issue