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Husco Hydraulic Detent Replament and Fix on Kubota B7800
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2020
- On my 05’ Kubota B7800 the float detent on the HUSCO hydraulic valve got damaged by ice in the cap that had no way to drain out. This is a known defect on these valves as rain and melting snow runs down the valve body and seeps into 4 gaps between the collar, spacers and cap. When I took off the caps, both were 2/3 full of ice with some rust to the interior parts, dented and broken ball bearing housing, crushed spring and flattened ball bearings. HUSCO provide their valves to Kubota on a proprietary basis so you cannot buy directly from them. Kubota do not sell separate parts for this assembly and you have to buy the complete kit for $161.42 CAD. The Detent/Float kit is #7553665400 and the Detent/Regen kit is #7553665100 and is $169.11 CAD. The only difference between the two is the inside profile of the “barrel” that the ball bearing housing fits into.
The fix for this trapped water problem is to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the cap and another at the top of the aluminum collar so the water drains out and you can spray WD-40 in the top hole to flush out any moisture.
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My 7800 was stuck in the float position and I tore into it in the field, not knowing exactly what I would find. Well as luck would have it the spring and detent ball went flying, I actually found the spring but no such luck with the ball bearing. I've been running it for two years with a must hold in for float and a really tricky spot for bucket power down and a very violent load down when heavy if you miss the very narrow controlled load down. I'm so glad I found this video you took the time to make. I'll be ordering both kits tomorrow you described to install and modify as you and hopefully bring the old B7800 back into compliance. I'm also going to install a shim kit in the pump relief valve to bring my pressures back up to spec. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and explain the best way to go about the fix.
Fixed my Kubota LA352 loader valve. It started sticking bad yesterday and I was sure it needed a new loader valve assembly. After disassembling the exact part that you did, I found it badly rusted. Luckily it cleaned up well and is working fine. Drilled the holes also as you did. Thank you!!!
My friend that was the best instructional repair video I've ever watched. The added close up pictures and laid out parts made it easy to follow along. Thank you for the extra time and effort you took in making this video! *****
You are welcome.
Thank you for responding. I meant the float operation does not work.
I will look for my particular valve and order accordingly.
Just used this video to fix my L3010. Only lost one ball bearing... after looking on the ground for 20 min I found it on the tractor by the brake pedals! Tractor is smoother than ever. Thanks!
I lost a couple of the little buggers when taking it apart. When I re-assembled, I put two magnetic trays underneath and they captured the dropped parts. You are welcime.
This saved my bacon with my Kubota 7500HSD tractor which got water and crud in this valve. I followed your instructions and it worked fine, the parts in mine were all pristine and just needed to be cleaned. Trying to get those 4 small ball bearings into place was a little like trying to get toothpaste back in the tube but I took the time to make a good pilot tool for the large bearing and that did it. What happened was the bucket would continue to raise when I used the lever and it was getting annoying and dangerous, too. Thanks to your advice, it's fixed now and works like new. Best instructional video ever, to the point and every detail covered.
Thanks for the comment. I have watched a lot of "how to" videos and they sometimes lack the complete picture. I tried to cover everything and by your comment and others, it looks like I succeded.
Awesome. Thank you so much for taking the time for others to learn.
Thanks for the video!!!! Made the job much easier.
Good info thank you
Excellent video, your a great teacher!
Thank You. It was a bit long but I have watched to many how to videos where it was like a stone skipping across a lake, just hitting the high points.
My pawpaw is butch and he was so happy when he saw this video, thank you so much 💚💚
It was his idea, all I did was document it in a video.
Thanks for the help. I really needed it .
You are welcome. The first time I did it was from a text describing the process. I figured there were more people out there struggling like me.
Thank you for this incredibly well done detailed video. This helps me a lot. I suspect I am having this same problem with my 05 B2710. My FEL sticks going up and down. Is the function of those ball detects just for float capability? Floating on pavement of such for plowing? I saw a post where I guy said he removed them because he doesn’t care about float and it fixed his problem. Just trying to understand the function of those bearing better. Thanks again.
The ball bearings also seat the valve back to a neutral position when you release the control stick on the valve. You may have a broken spring or jambed ball in there. Just take it slow and you will work through it. Glad the video helped.
Very nice instruction! I have a year 2000 M9000 cab tractor with LA1251 loader. It also has a control valve freezing issue. Northeastern VT, so a definite winter concern. I never force the controls, but wait until tractor heats up or I put a heat gun on the control valve block. Does anyone know if the same approach for the B7800 will apply to the M9000 (cab) configuration?
I was hoping to see how you got the ball bearing back in on the tractor but it just cut to them already installed.
Could this make tracpt blow hydrostatic filter
Thanks for this video it gave me the confidence to do the job I did have one issue it came with a small washer and I had an old one as well but it is working the paperwork don't show it nor does your video any help
excellent video really helped me out I have the same issue just picked up the new kit question does the shaft that holds the ball bearing screw in to valve shaft ? Thank you so much very helpful
You are correct it does screw into the end of the valve shaft. There is a slot in the end for a flat screwdriver. To break it loose I used a hex key of the correct diameter and shoved it through two of the ball bearing holes. They have Loctite on the threads, you will see that when you get your kit.
@@greathodgy22 thank you I am going to dive in to it this afternoon I may have another question for you thanks again
i have a rubber o ring in the kit does that go on the shaft before the plastic washer ? I didnt find an o ring when I took it apart.. Thank you
@@richeyrich2445 The o ring fits on the valve shaft behind the last spacer inside the valve body. Unless you have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the valve body, you don't need it, but keep it. I thought I posted a schematic of the kit on the Orange Tractor Talks, that is where you found my video, right ?
@@greathodgy22 Got it buddy I cant thank you enough for making an intimidating job rather easy I did have to take off the valve body for better access but it went right together just like you said and my float mode that hasnt worked right in a couple years is now working perfectly. MERRY CHRISTMAS
Good video. What year is your B7800? I have a 2006 bought new, it's hydraulic valve look different.
Mine is a 05'. Kubota used different hydraulic suppliers from year to year. There should be a tag on your valve body to indicate manufacturer and model.
Mine is a B7500. No float. Should I use the same part
number you mentioned and I do I replace both?
There is a tag on your hydraulic valve body that has the Husco model and serial number on it. You need to use that when ordering parts, they changed from year to year and in fact within the year depending on what Husco had available. No float, is it a FEL ? Even a FEL usually has float.
Any idea why my loader goes up in the float position? Kubota l3130.
Only a guess. The valve is stuck short or beyond the float position. The fluid is then chambered to flow to the cylinder, you need to dismantle the valve, carefully.
Seems like a stupid design. Why not have a gasket to keep crud and water out?