My clear bra is so brittle it comes off in tiny little bits. I was going to resort to using a heat gun and plastic scraper. I just watched your video and order the pinstripe wheel. This video is wonderful. Thank you.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Good luck with it, remember to take your time. Its very satisfying once its all off and complete. Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
Man, thank you so much. What a nasty job. Had to take crap wrap off an ISF. Started with a heat gun, plastic blades, Goo Gone, and another Costco sized container of WD40…..Useless. Bought the 3M Eraser, switched to Rapid Remover (in my opinion the best adhesive remover on the market, turns ppf into oil), continued with multiple plastic razors, heat gun, & viola. Elbow grease still needed, but was able to remove PPF from quarter panel, hood, & fiberglass front bumper film (do not use the rubber wheel on plastic) within in several hours. Before the wheel, & Rapid Remover I had been working on it for several hours a day for nearly a week with no outcome. Again, many thanks!
Thank you for watching and commenting, Yes, I think we have all had that one job where we throw every tool in our toolbox at it. As I have said before it's a time consuming job but it is the safest way to get it off without damaging the paint. I appreciate the feedback, Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
This video was a HUGE help, THANK YOU! My situation was a little different, 2015 (silver) Corolla, the clear bra wasn't dried out like your example, but it looked like it had mold growing between it and the paint. Instead of dry, dusty flakes flying around, I had scalding hot balls of goo flying at me (looked like rubber cement). Where this 'mold' was, the bra came off easily, where there wasn't I really struggled to get it off. Happily, after all the effort and cussing the paint was NOT damaged and it looks so much better now. The color difference is very subtle, so I'm not even going to buff it out. If anyone out there runs into the 'hot balls of goo' like I did, PROTECT YOURSELF! Not just safety glasses, but a face shield and a hat as this goo will attach itself to your hair and NOT come off without cutting it out. DAMHIK. Thanks again!
John, thank you for your feedback, as you can see from the start of the video the flying glue and the problem of it getting in my hair was not a problem. Being Bald can sometimes be an advantage.😬
Yes, it's a lot of hard work but well worth talking time to do it. Thank you for taking the time to tune in, it is very much appreciated. Regards Paddy.
Hi, Sorry to have missed this comment. The solvent I used is typically only available trough a detail supplies company, who require you to have an account with them. A very similar product from 3M can be found here :amzn.to/3m28kTv
I have a very cracked and brown/yellow discolored PPF on the lower rocker panels on the side of my white car. Think this method would work in my situation?
I have at least 13 year old film on a Lotus Elise. Took an hour and a half just to remove the film off the inner half of one mirror with a heat gun and a plastic scraper. Still have half the hood and both lower side panels covered in it. Would this rubber wheel be safe on the plastic body?
Ati, The problem with Plastic or fiberglass panels is the heat tolerance that is typically building up as the wheel spins on the surface. With metal panels more heat can be absorbed into it, therefore giving you a longer work time. You have to be very careful on bumpers and other plastic panels while carrying out this process. Slow and steady with the drill and rubber wheel. It can be frustrating as some people are not naturally patient, it's when you become frustrated with it that mistakes can happen.
Yes, however be aware of heat tolerance. Don’t have the wheel spinning too fast and keep it moving constantly across the film edges. Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
I used gasoline. Wet down towel or rag and lay it on each spot as you go. Gas will soften up hard brittle dried on ppf. As gas softens it just use a plastic razor blade or good plastic putty knife. Scrape then wipe...it's time consuming but that's the only thing that worked for me on some 17 year old dry, moldy, brittle ppf. It's a nightmare. Gas didn't remove paint or clear coat. I even left a gas soaked towel on overnight...it was better that using laquer thinner and I didn't have a grinder. Im a female. I also used blow dryer after softening it too.
Is that 3M wheel safe to use on plastic parts to remove old clear bra? The front bumper for example. I'm worried it might put too much heat and warp the plastic.
Harry, I would have to say the risk outweighs the reward. With Bumpers they can build the heat very quickly. You will have to have the wheel spinning very slowly so heat does not build , I know from painful experience. If you can get away with steaming it off that would be better, however if it is really baked on there is no guarantee that steaming will work, so the only real way is to use the wheel. It is important to note that it will take time and test your patience, don't get frustrated with it and try to rush it. that will only lead to you throwing tools and cussing out loud.
Is there an easy way to make sure you don’t overheat things? Like what temperature on the surface would indicate I need to take a break because it’s too hot. I used a hot air gun and a plastic blade to try and get some ancient clear bra off and I gave up when I saw that some paint was coming off with the bra as I moved along with the razor and gently pulling when I could, the film is all cracked so you can’t really pull up more than like a 2” by 2” piece at a time
Fee, it’s a slow process but the safest way. Like many other people before us, we have tried to use a steamer, hot air gun and various other ways to remove it. The wheel, when used properly is really the only way to safely ensure that you are not risking damaging the vehicle paint. Any use of a blade and you run the risk of either applying too much pressure or loosing the friction and slipping the blade over the paint and causing scratches. Although it’s a slow process, it’s the safer option. Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail )
@@VeteranDetail thank you but my question is with the wheel can you h harm the paint by heat or going to fast etc ? What’s the temperature at which I should give the surface a break?
@@Fee.1 you can if the wheel is spinning too fast. The higher the speed the more heat that is generated. With clear coat paint, we typically have a rule that an increase in the surface temperature of any more than 30 degrees F above the ambient temperature, then damage of the paint will occur. When polishing paint we want the surface to be as cool as possible. There is no hiding the fact that by using the wheel it creates friction, in turn friction produces heat. That is why we want to slow the speed of the wheel to a point where it is creating the right amount of friction but not too much heat. I hope I have explained that in as simple as terms as possible? Like I say in the video it’s something you just have to take slowly and be patient with.
@@VeteranDetail yes that’s very helpful thank you. I will make sure I’m not going above 30F with an IR temp gauge. I would’ve expected 30C not 30F so I’m glad I asked. Last question. Are there any brick and mortar stores that tend to carry plastic razor blades and/or these type of rubber abrasive wheels? I can’t seem to find any
The wheel works great on removing it from the metal painted panels, any bumper or trim pieces are mostly plastic. Care needs to be taken not to generate too much heat with the friction of the wheel. With these areas I recommend the use of a heat gun to soften the PPF. You should be able to peel it back slowly then remove any glue residue with the solvent remover as previously shown. Remember that the metal painted panel’s will always be able to take a little more heat than the plastics. Take your time, thank you for watching on our channel.
Additional feedback / caution: I used an Amazon rubber wheel "SATC decal eraser" and it would either just smear the old clear bra making it harder to peel off, or with just a little more time and/or force, pull the paint right off. This is OEM Porsche paint and bumper and it would easily take it right down to the bare plastic.
@@yueibm , as I mention in the video, not all of these decal / pinstripe removal wheels are the same. A quality wheel like the 3 M will have a softer compound and will work at slower speeds. The main problem is people try to rush the process and build too much heat, especially on plastic areas, like bumpers. Also consideration needs to be given to how soft or how hard the manufactures make their paints, Porsche paint is typically soft. At the other end of the scale Mercedes paint tends to be much harder.lets face it Vehicle manufacturers will cut costs if they can and one of those cost cutting exercises is with the quality of paint. Modern vehicles tend to have some poor quality paint these days. For anyone watching this process please remember It takes patients and time to get it all off without damaging the surface of the paint. Thank you for tuning in and contributing with your comments., Regards Paddy.
Can't stand this PPF crap film. I bought an old 2007 Chevy Silverado truck painted in Summit White which had this junk installed on the edge of the hood and it's now all yellow from UV overexposure. I started trying to peel it off and it actually pulled some of the paint off with it exposing the primer. I'll end up having to refinish the areas where it pulled the paint up but I tell you, this stuff irritates me to no end as it's like contact cement with the adhesive it uses. I also heard you can use a heat gun to soften up the film prior to trying to peel it off with minimal damage to the underlying clearcoat and paint.
Antonio, thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes the older PPF is a real pain to remove. With the wheel it is generating heat from the friction, it is better to do that without heating it up first, using a heat gun will soften the material and make it more goopy. The glue will soften and most likely be left behind on the surface and will just extend the timeframe. Newer Paint Protection film can be removed far easier with the use of a steamer.
Mike, the New PPF options are far better than the older stuff. Some of the new makes which are self healing, others with Ceramic coating infused within. My video is not designed to discourage people from getting it, it is there to give a safe method of removing the Old outdated stuff. Thank you for watching and commenting. Regards Paddy
@@mikeprice8307 , sorry to hear that. The problem with vinyl on bumpers is, the heat tolerance is far less on plastic than on metal . I would not recommend people to use the wheel on bumpers unless you are spinning it very slowly.
My clear bra is so brittle it comes off in tiny little bits. I was going to resort to using a heat gun and plastic scraper. I just watched your video and order the pinstripe wheel. This video is wonderful. Thank you.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Good luck with it, remember to take your time. Its very satisfying once its all off and complete. Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
Man, thank you so much. What a nasty job. Had to take crap wrap off an ISF. Started with a heat gun, plastic blades, Goo Gone, and another Costco sized container of WD40…..Useless. Bought the 3M Eraser, switched to Rapid Remover (in my opinion the best adhesive remover on the market, turns ppf into oil), continued with multiple plastic razors, heat gun, & viola. Elbow grease still needed, but was able to remove PPF from quarter panel, hood, & fiberglass front bumper film (do not use the rubber wheel on plastic) within in several hours. Before the wheel, & Rapid Remover I had been working on it for several hours a day for nearly a week with no outcome. Again, many thanks!
Thank you for watching and commenting, Yes, I think we have all had that one job where we throw every tool in our toolbox at it. As I have said before it's a time consuming job but it is the safest way to get it off without damaging the paint. I appreciate the feedback, Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
This video was a HUGE help, THANK YOU! My situation was a little different, 2015 (silver) Corolla, the clear bra wasn't dried out like your example, but it looked like it had mold growing between it and the paint. Instead of dry, dusty flakes flying around, I had scalding hot balls of goo flying at me (looked like rubber cement). Where this 'mold' was, the bra came off easily, where there wasn't I really struggled to get it off. Happily, after all the effort and cussing the paint was NOT damaged and it looks so much better now. The color difference is very subtle, so I'm not even going to buff it out. If anyone out there runs into the 'hot balls of goo' like I did, PROTECT YOURSELF! Not just safety glasses, but a face shield and a hat as this goo will attach itself to your hair and NOT come off without cutting it out. DAMHIK. Thanks again!
John, thank you for your feedback, as you can see from the start of the video the flying glue and the problem of it getting in my hair was not a problem. Being Bald can sometimes be an advantage.😬
Steam and scrapers don't work that well on the old style clear bras. These guys are doing it right.
That’s Crazy! The amount of labor is ridiculous.
Great result though Thank You 🙏
Yes, it's a lot of hard work but well worth talking time to do it. Thank you for taking the time to tune in, it is very much appreciated. Regards Paddy.
This information helped me very much. Thank you.
Calvin, thank you for tuning in. It is very much appreciated. Regards Paddy.
Old clear bra is a paint great job paddy.
It's very time-consuming but well worth the effort.
Citristrip is safe and easier. Did 3 cars with dried out clear bras.paint it on, wait and use plastic scraper
Thanks for the teaching the process
Ken, you are very welcome,thank you for tuning in.
The solvent you used isn’t in your description. Have a link to it?
Hi, Sorry to have missed this comment. The solvent I used is typically only available trough a detail supplies company, who require you to have an account with them. A very similar product from 3M can be found here :amzn.to/3m28kTv
I used gasoline and worked to remove the glue
I have a very cracked and brown/yellow discolored PPF on the lower rocker panels on the side of my white car. Think this method would work in my situation?
Hi Michael, yes it should be fine to do that area. Just make sure that it is clean and free from dirt before you start with the removal of the PPF.
Thank you!
I have at least 13 year old film on a Lotus Elise. Took an hour and a half just to remove the film off the inner half of one mirror with a heat gun and a plastic scraper. Still have half the hood and both lower side panels covered in it. Would this rubber wheel be safe on the plastic body?
Ati, The problem with Plastic or fiberglass panels is the heat tolerance that is typically building up as the wheel spins on the surface. With metal panels more heat can be absorbed into it, therefore giving you a longer work time. You have to be very careful on bumpers and other plastic panels while carrying out this process. Slow and steady with the drill and rubber wheel. It can be frustrating as some people are not naturally patient, it's when you become frustrated with it that mistakes can happen.
Thanks man!
You are welcome, thank you for tuning in.
Does this method work on an aluminum hood? Thanks
Yes, however be aware of heat tolerance. Don’t have the wheel spinning too fast and keep it moving constantly across the film edges.
Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail)
I used gasoline. Wet down towel or rag and lay it on each spot as you go. Gas will soften up hard brittle dried on ppf. As gas softens it just use a plastic razor blade or good plastic putty knife. Scrape then wipe...it's time consuming but that's the only thing that worked for me on some 17 year old dry, moldy, brittle ppf. It's a nightmare. Gas didn't remove paint or clear coat. I even left a gas soaked towel on overnight...it was better that using laquer thinner and I didn't have a grinder. Im a female. I also used blow dryer after softening it too.
Is that 3M wheel safe to use on plastic parts to remove old clear bra? The front bumper for example. I'm worried it might put too much heat and warp the plastic.
Harry, I would have to say the risk outweighs the reward. With Bumpers they can build the heat very quickly. You will have to have the wheel spinning very slowly so heat does not build , I know from painful experience. If you can get away with steaming it off that would be better, however if it is really baked on there is no guarantee that steaming will work, so the only real way is to use the wheel. It is important to note that it will take time and test your patience, don't get frustrated with it and try to rush it. that will only lead to you throwing tools and cussing out loud.
No.
Is there an easy way to make sure you don’t overheat things? Like what temperature on the surface would indicate I need to take a break because it’s too hot. I used a hot air gun and a plastic blade to try and get some ancient clear bra off and I gave up when I saw that some paint was coming off with the bra as I moved along with the razor and gently pulling when I could, the film is all cracked so you can’t really pull up more than like a 2” by 2” piece at a time
Fee, it’s a slow process but the safest way. Like many other people before us, we have tried to use a steamer, hot air gun and various other ways to remove it.
The wheel, when used properly is really the only way to safely ensure that you are not risking damaging the vehicle paint. Any use of a blade and you run the risk of either applying too much pressure or loosing the friction and slipping the blade over the paint and causing scratches.
Although it’s a slow process, it’s the safer option. Regards Paddy (Veteran Detail )
@@VeteranDetail thank you but my question is with the wheel can you h harm the paint by heat or going to fast etc ? What’s the temperature at which I should give the surface a break?
@@Fee.1 you can if the wheel is spinning too fast. The higher the speed the more heat that is generated. With clear coat paint, we typically have a rule that an increase in the surface temperature of any more than 30 degrees F above the ambient temperature, then damage of the paint will occur. When polishing paint we want the surface to be as cool as possible.
There is no hiding the fact that by using the wheel it creates friction, in turn friction produces heat. That is why we want to slow the speed of the wheel to a point where it is creating the right amount of friction but not too much heat.
I hope I have explained that in as simple as terms as possible? Like I say in the video it’s something you just have to take slowly and be patient with.
@@VeteranDetail yes that’s very helpful thank you. I will make sure I’m not going above 30F with an IR temp gauge. I would’ve expected 30C not 30F so I’m glad I asked. Last question. Are there any brick and mortar stores that tend to carry plastic razor blades and/or these type of rubber abrasive wheels? I can’t seem to find any
@@Fee.1 . The Detail Garage (Chemical guy’s) may carry those items , but mainly their range is surface preparation and protection focused.
Be careful where you use it, I used it to remove clear bra on the bottom driver door side of my car and it burnt a huge hole in my car
I burned my finder didn’t know it would do that
Sorry that happened, what wheel and speed where you operating at? Where you using the softer compound of the 3M wheel ?
would I need more than one wheel?
Zane, no one wheel is enough to do the average job. Thank you for tuning in.
Can the pinstripe adhesive removal wheels be used on clear bra that had been attached to plastic trim? If not, what do you use?
The wheel works great on removing it from the metal painted panels, any bumper or trim pieces are mostly plastic. Care needs to be taken not to generate too much heat with the friction of the wheel. With these areas I recommend the use of a heat gun to soften the PPF. You should be able to peel it back slowly then remove any glue residue with the solvent remover as previously shown. Remember that the metal painted panel’s will always be able to take a little more heat than the plastics. Take your time, thank you for watching on our channel.
Additional feedback / caution: I used an Amazon rubber wheel "SATC decal eraser" and it would either just smear the old clear bra making it harder to peel off, or with just a little more time and/or force, pull the paint right off. This is OEM Porsche paint and bumper and it would easily take it right down to the bare plastic.
@@yueibm , as I mention in the video, not all of these decal / pinstripe removal wheels are the same. A quality wheel like the 3 M will have a softer compound and will work at slower speeds. The main problem is people try to rush the process and build too much heat, especially on plastic areas, like bumpers. Also consideration needs to be given to how soft or how hard the manufactures make their paints, Porsche paint is typically soft. At the other end of the scale Mercedes paint tends to be much harder.lets face it Vehicle manufacturers will cut costs if they can and one of those cost cutting exercises is with the quality of paint. Modern vehicles tend to have some poor quality paint these days.
For anyone watching this process please remember It takes patients and time to get it all off without damaging the surface of the paint.
Thank you for tuning in and contributing with your comments., Regards Paddy.
Can't stand this PPF crap film. I bought an old 2007 Chevy Silverado truck painted in Summit White which had this junk installed on the edge of the hood and it's now all yellow from UV overexposure. I started trying to peel it off and it actually pulled some of the paint off with it exposing the primer. I'll end up having to refinish the areas where it pulled the paint up but I tell you, this stuff irritates me to no end as it's like contact cement with the adhesive it uses. I also heard you can use a heat gun to soften up the film prior to trying to peel it off with minimal damage to the underlying clearcoat and paint.
Antonio, thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes the older PPF is a real pain to remove. With the wheel it is generating heat from the friction, it is better to do that without heating it up first, using a heat gun will soften the material and make it more goopy.
The glue will soften and most likely be left behind on the surface and will just extend the timeframe.
Newer Paint Protection film can be removed far easier with the use of a steamer.
This is why I'm hesitant to get PPF
Mike, the New PPF options are far better than the older stuff. Some of the new makes which are self healing, others with Ceramic coating infused within. My video is not designed to discourage people from getting it, it is there to give a safe method of removing the Old outdated stuff. Thank you for watching and commenting. Regards Paddy
@@VeteranDetail I understand. But that's a pain to remove when due. A guy broke my paint using g a wheel similar on my GT500 bumper removing stripes.
@@mikeprice8307 , sorry to hear that. The problem with vinyl on bumpers is, the heat tolerance is far less on plastic than on metal . I would not recommend people to use the wheel on bumpers unless you are spinning it very slowly.