I’m trying to understand this test a little bit better. If I remove the fuel pump controller and I have a digital voltmeter, how can I test it to see it if it’s in good condition or bad? Ohms?? Continuity?? Or is that simply not possible ?
First decide what to test first, pump or controller. Pump can be tested by disconnecting from the controller and connecting to a 12V source directly - you should hear the pump spinning and engine should start and run normally. Watch polarity, nothing catastrophic will happen if you connect the pump to reverse polarity, but engine won't start. Next step is to test the controller. Connect 12V light bulb to the connector leading from controller to pump (on controller side). Instrument is not enough, you need some load. When you turn the key, bulb must be lit for few seconds and then go off (prime phase). This test is not a proof that controller is completely ok, but it's good starting point.
hello. what is after switching key bulb instead of flashing once flashes time after time. screen has a yellow triangle and ews sometimes shows up. bike starts but rearily for a short time of periods and switches of on its own. most of the time after switching ignition on and pressing start button nothing happens, but sometime it starts. battery looks fine to me. dealer said its either wire problem or computer. checked wires and couldnt find any apparent cause,everything fine. i was wondering if ring antena can cause such malfunction. can it be that if computer cant get immobilaizer signal it doesn give a signal to starter relay as well as fuel pump. on the other hand sometimes after turning the key fuel pump works all the time without stopping. Does anyone has any experience or thoughts. thank you
The S1000RR has the same fuel controller. I want to be able to connect a battery to the fuel pump to drain the tank (to remove race fuel). I tried connecting -ve terminal to middle pin (pin 2) and +12v to the blue-green pin (pin 1). The pump did not start. I then applied +12v to the blue/brown pin (pin 3), which gave a spark. I suspect this may have damaged the controller. To pump fuel do I need to supply 12v to pin1, gnd to pin 2 and 3.3v to pin3 or can i ground pin3?
Do not apply 12V to 3-pin connector on the controller - you will probably fry the controller if you apply 12V to the PWM line. It's better to remove controller, disconnect 2-pin blue connector UNDER controller and apply power directly to the pump. If you don't have a spare pump connector (which you probably don't have), you can use a pair of large diameter isolated flexble wires plugging them onto the pins or some other improvised solution. BEWARE OF FIRE - be sure there is no fuel spilled near the contacts. Improvised contact will probably spark and may cause fire with fuel around. Wrong polarity is no problem - the pump will run backwards on wrong polarity, but (from my experience) won't cause any damage.
Thanks. I worked it out in the end. On S1000rr the pins are coloured like the same and laid out like this: Pin 1 = Green/Blue wire (closer to the rear wheel) Pin 2 = Brown (middle) Pin 3 = Blue/red (closer to engine/front wheel). The Pin numbers come from the connector - I purchased a spare part connector from BMW. I had originally connected Pin2 = 0v (-ve terminal of battery) and Pin1 = +12v. Nothing happened (and your video explained why - thank you it was VERY helpful!). I then MOVED the +12V lead from Pin1 to Pin3. Fortunately this did not damage the controller, although I would definitely not do this again! I think it was OK because I had Pin1 disconnected. But if you put 12v on Pin1 and Pin3 at the same time, I suspect you might damage the controller. I made up a cable with a switch and wired Pin1 and Pin2 to the battery. It draws current on first connect and will spark if it has been off for a while, so definitely use a proper switch for this. I then connected Pin3 to 0v (-ve terminal). The pump runs. It draws a very small current. Disconnect Pin3 and the pump stops. I added a momentary contact switch to this line - you have to keep pressing to keep pumping the fuel, which will avoid leaving it on and burning out the pump and also ensure you don't walk away and have fuel everywhere. From your explanation I assume that 0v is maximum flow, which is ideal since I am trying to drain the tank. My bike reads 3.8v on Pin3 with ignition on and engine off. I don't have an oscilloscope to view the waveform. That seems higher than you measured, but it is a basic meter.
Good to hear you did it. Voltage on Pin3 is not important - today everything works on 3v3, but most of the inputs are 5V tolerant. I guess that pin3 is even 12V tolerant because your controller survived (but I wouldn't try to replicate the test). So, everything above 2V5 is considered logic 1 = "fuel pressure is high, no more pumping please". Logic 0 on pin 3 means "maximum pumping". Pin3 has something called "pull up" - a resistor which sets default to logic 1 = maximum in case if control lead fails (loose contact etc.).
@@Zvona555 thank you for explaining how it module work. But i don't understand what show oscilloscope? It's PWM signal from ECU? Upper line on display, it's 3.3v?
@@valentinloginoff I wanted to make this video again with comments and everything, but I've obviously been too lazy :). This is the signal sent by ECU to pump controller - simple 3.3V PWM (or it's 5V - I don't remember, but certainly not 12V). Other two wires are GND and +12V.
Very helpful!
I’m trying to understand this test a little bit better. If I remove the fuel pump controller and I have a digital voltmeter, how can I test it to see it if it’s in good condition or bad? Ohms?? Continuity?? Or is that simply not possible ?
First decide what to test first, pump or controller. Pump can be tested by disconnecting from the controller and connecting to a 12V source directly - you should hear the pump spinning and engine should start and run normally. Watch polarity, nothing catastrophic will happen if you connect the pump to reverse polarity, but engine won't start.
Next step is to test the controller. Connect 12V light bulb to the connector leading from controller to pump (on controller side). Instrument is not enough, you need some load. When you turn the key, bulb must be lit for few seconds and then go off (prime phase). This test is not a proof that controller is completely ok, but it's good starting point.
hello. what is after switching key bulb instead of flashing once flashes time after time. screen has a yellow triangle and ews sometimes shows up. bike starts but rearily for a short time of periods and switches of on its own. most of the time after switching ignition on and pressing start button nothing happens, but sometime it starts. battery looks fine to me. dealer said its either wire problem or computer. checked wires and couldnt find any apparent cause,everything fine. i was wondering if ring antena can cause such malfunction. can it be that if computer cant get immobilaizer signal it doesn give a signal to starter relay as well as fuel pump. on the other hand sometimes after turning the key fuel pump works all the time without stopping. Does anyone has any experience or thoughts. thank you
The S1000RR has the same fuel controller. I want to be able to connect a battery to the fuel pump to drain the tank (to remove race fuel). I tried connecting -ve terminal to middle pin (pin 2) and +12v to the blue-green pin (pin 1). The pump did not start. I then applied +12v to the blue/brown pin (pin 3), which gave a spark. I suspect this may have damaged the controller.
To pump fuel do I need to supply 12v to pin1, gnd to pin 2 and 3.3v to pin3 or can i ground pin3?
Do not apply 12V to 3-pin connector on the controller - you will probably fry the controller if you apply 12V to the PWM line. It's better to remove controller, disconnect 2-pin blue connector UNDER controller and apply power directly to the pump. If you don't have a spare pump connector (which you probably don't have), you can use a pair of large diameter isolated flexble wires plugging them onto the pins or some other improvised solution. BEWARE OF FIRE - be sure there is no fuel spilled near the contacts. Improvised contact will probably spark and may cause fire with fuel around. Wrong polarity is no problem - the pump will run backwards on wrong polarity, but (from my experience) won't cause any damage.
Thanks.
I worked it out in the end.
On S1000rr the pins are coloured like the same and laid out like this:
Pin 1 = Green/Blue wire (closer to the rear wheel)
Pin 2 = Brown (middle)
Pin 3 = Blue/red (closer to engine/front wheel).
The Pin numbers come from the connector - I purchased a spare part connector from BMW.
I had originally connected Pin2 = 0v (-ve terminal of battery) and Pin1 = +12v. Nothing happened (and your video explained why - thank you it was VERY helpful!).
I then MOVED the +12V lead from Pin1 to Pin3. Fortunately this did not damage the controller, although I would definitely not do this again! I think it was OK because I had Pin1 disconnected. But if you put 12v on Pin1 and Pin3 at the same time, I suspect you might damage the controller.
I made up a cable with a switch and wired Pin1 and Pin2 to the battery. It draws current on first connect and will spark if it has been off for a while, so definitely use a proper switch for this.
I then connected Pin3 to 0v (-ve terminal). The pump runs. It draws a very small current. Disconnect Pin3 and the pump stops. I added a momentary contact switch to this line - you have to keep pressing to keep pumping the fuel, which will avoid leaving it on and burning out the pump and also ensure you don't walk away and have fuel everywhere.
From your explanation I assume that 0v is maximum flow, which is ideal since I am trying to drain the tank.
My bike reads 3.8v on Pin3 with ignition on and engine off. I don't have an oscilloscope to view the waveform. That seems higher than you measured, but it is a basic meter.
Good to hear you did it. Voltage on Pin3 is not important - today everything works on 3v3, but most of the inputs are 5V tolerant. I guess that pin3 is even 12V tolerant because your controller survived (but I wouldn't try to replicate the test).
So, everything above 2V5 is considered logic 1 = "fuel pressure is high, no more pumping please". Logic 0 on pin 3 means "maximum pumping". Pin3 has something called "pull up" - a resistor which sets default to logic 1 = maximum in case if control lead fails (loose contact etc.).
@@Zvona555 thank you for explaining how it module work. But i don't understand what show oscilloscope? It's PWM signal from ECU? Upper line on display, it's 3.3v?
@@valentinloginoff I wanted to make this video again with comments and everything, but I've obviously been too lazy :). This is the signal sent by ECU to pump controller - simple 3.3V PWM (or it's 5V - I don't remember, but certainly not 12V). Other two wires are GND and +12V.