DRY POUR Concrete SECRETS For a Perfect (no stone) SMOOTH Top Finish! Walkway / Easy Steps dry pour
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2023
- Pour dry cement walkways and add stamps or sweep with lines for a perfect top. Dry pour concrete tips and tricks. Dry pour cement slab. Dry pour concrete walkway. Dry pour driveway. Sidewalk. Anything is possible with dry pour cement.
![ภาพนี้ก็ฮาเหมือนกันนะเนี้ย #1 SS8 [ พากย์นรก MEME.EXE ] | easy boy](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ytc50m91QK8/mqdefault.jpg)
Definitely going to try this method as we are currently giving our backyard a refresh. Thanks!
Awesome good luck
Shaboom!! Teddy I actually really enjoy watching videos you make that aren't just crypto/stock stuff. I've actually really wondered about that protein thing you were talking about. Keep the videos coming I get notifications everytime you post🎉
Awesome bro. I’m going to do the 7 day protein challenge and see if I lose any weight. Stay tuned. I appreciate you tuning in 💪
This video is great! It will hold up contrary to what people are saying. Removed my old broken pavers and replaced my area with 2 dry pour, brown pebbles. Everyone loves it.
Love the final paint finish you gave it
very nice!
Thank you! ❤️👊💪
I have just watched a video on why to NOT use dry pour BUT your tops makes a huge difference. The video I mentioned why to not use dry cement because of rocks in the bags prevent a smooth surface, he did say it held up ok, in parts, to the sledgehammer test. Thanks for the tips.....also, I like the mello groove in the background.....
Continued success & Blessings
Yes I’m deed. I did a large dry pour at my brothers house and all the rocks were showing. So I changed it up to Mortar top and it’s so clean and beautiful. Thanks for watching.
That video you mentioned was a joke and he didn’t follow the proper instructions. You can use regular bags. Just overfill the forms and screed very slowly and it will pull the fine powder to the surface and the rocks will settle. I just did a 6x6 and it’s perfect. I also used a cement edger while dry and that worked great also.
@@johnholding107- You’re correct. Following the instructions makes a huge difference.
Another method to try on my diy projects. Great vid!
Thank you for watching!!
The brick trick worked out great for me! Thanks for the tip.
The brick also did a surprisingly good job at smoothing out the top!
Mine came out a bit rough as I only used quikrete but 3-4 minutes with running the brick over the top really smoothed it out.
Awesome 💪
Ive been waiting for this tip! Thanks!
Thank you!!
Looks fantastic btw. I think u nailed it doin' your edges with that hi-tech super tool ;-).Good eye - good hands, well done.
You and I arrived at the same idea: I learned that the fine content of pre-mix may vary by region and batches. The paint roller technique is brilliant but it may be difficult to pull up enough cement dust to get a smooth finish on top. Here is what worked for me. 1. Screed the dry pre-mix concrete to a reasonably smooth finish, postpone the paint roller. 2 When you buy your pre-mix concrete, get a bag of sand mix as well (aka topping or bedding). 3. Borrow an collander from the kitchen and sift 1/8" to 1/4" of sand mix over your still dry pre-mix. 4. Paint roll if you want. 5. Mist and wet technique. 6. If you skip the paint roller you will get a finish that looks like a spray on rubberized truck bed with some grit, perfectly good for a non-slip finish.
Thanks for the tips on the finishing techniques. ❤😊
Great Job!! You make it look all to easy!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Awesome Teddy, thank you!!
🤘🤘💯💯💯💯💯
Thumbs up! Useful information without all the hubub.
Thank you 👊👍
Looking good my man 👍🏾💪🏾
Thank you💪
Thanks you made it look easy
Awesome. It’s definitely easy
Glad to have found your video. My first attempt at dry pour was plagued with gravel that I could not get to settle and top came out pretty rough. I was wondering if this would work. Going to try this method for a picnic table platform next!
Awesome. It definitely works. Won’t crack either. Use the stuff I show in the video too. Thanks for watching.
VADaddofthr33 The only way you can get a smooth surface is to mix concrete the right way. This dry pour nonsense will never give you good results and the surface will continue to spall off and only look wore over time. This will always happen because concrete needs to be mixed wet and consolidated. Also, you won't spend so much time messing around with caustic cement dust. The moisture in lungs will hydrate the cement powder. It 's not the best for eyes either. It is easier and far better to do it the proper way. This Micky Mouse concrete is weak as sh!te and it looks like sh!te. It will just crumble away in the weather. Concrete needs to be mixed to consolidate it. Just sprinkling water on the mix doesn't create a creamy paste (the glue) that covers all surfaces of the aggregate, nor get rid of all the voids. Also, concrete needs to set up at the same time. Wetting a layer and waiting an hour for it to set will not bond strongly to the dry mix below. Cold joints do not make a strong bond and that is why the surface of dry pours are pockmarked and continue to spall off.
Teddy tried to hide the cratered surface with grey paint, but I can see a plethora of craters, plain as day. All of this dry pour nonsense came from the directions on a bag of post concrete mix. The glob of concrete anchoring in a fence post is a totally different ballgame than pouring a concrete slab. Especially don't listen to anyone claiming that 1.5" slabs are strong enough to build large slabs. Even with real concrete.
@@gordthor5351 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looks great I’d just water the ground a little more so it also soaks from bottom
Yes in deed! Thanks for watching
Nice!
The smoothness is great. Is there mortar rated for more pounds. I take it the would break if you drove a car over it? I want to dry pour the area next to my driveway so I can park another cart there.
Great job, how big is it and how many bags of quikrete did you use?
Great job. I’m waiting for someone to stain a dry pour so I can learn from their mistakes!😎
Nice. I have a really big project coming up. Staining is in the works.
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIORHow to stamp on dry pour concrete?
Good times! And that music : )
❤️❤️❤️ I love your TH-cam Name ❤️❤️❤️
Happy New Year from Auckland, New Zealand ...job well done !!!
We’ve done that for years. When setting concrete posts for chain-link fence.
Love it. Sad to see a clean set of runnner being used for this type of work. Lol
I'm a huge DIY guy. I enjoy hours of stuff like this. I alway's wanted to yt some of my stuff. Just not good at filming and editing.
Keep them coming.
👍👍👍
😂😂 Thank you
Awesome content
Cool. Thanks bro 💪
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR Bro 10 days on the shakes then 10 on the carnivore diet🔥🔥
Thanks for quick tutorial I'm currently paving a crawlspace under my house & figured a Dry Pour method was the best way to go.
I like how morter was top layer for a smooth finish.
Got me thinking if base layer was 3/4 gravel, then morter dry set and then wet would be a good option
Super smooth 👊💪
I'd like to see more details of that brick doing the edges
I love your videos and really well detail on dry pour concrete. After you brush off, what type of paint did you uses? And type of color?
Any outdoor paint will do. I use a mid grade outdoor paint. Pick your fav color.
I love your idea it saves your back and looks great too ❤❤❤❤ thanks. 3:09
Thank you!!
I just did an 8x4 slab dry pour method for my garbage containers. Wish I had thought of the dry mortar application. But I still can add when it cures fully. Weekend project.
Yes definitely. It’ll look great!!
You can but the thing about cement is that it will not adhere to another slab, meaning that once dry/cured, new cement will never attach to old. Which makes for an easily cracked surface.
@@MatHelm go to Michael Builds, he just did a video on that subject...
Since the concrete is already dried I think you should use concrete resurfacer instead of dry mortar, the mortar will not adhere to the new concrete unless you make the surface porous and apply a bonding agent.
@@m.santos1520 Thanks for the reply. I thought as much. Might go with the resurfacer...if my garbage bins complain. LOL. Take care.
Looks great! But is it soft enough to shave with a brick after the watering is done? Does it keep hardening more afterwards? To take 2000 lbs etc? Or did you water more after shaving?
You can water as much as u like. It’ll only drink what it needs. After I sanded I allowed to dry and then painted.
I do not want to be the naysayer here, but did anyone stop to think why it was so easy to bevel the edges after it dries? That concrete should be hard as a rock at this point, that is why you normally bevel the edges before it dries. Secondly, look at 4:21 - there is already a large hole in the brand-new slab. That's because the top begins to harden too fast not allowing enough water to make it all the way down. Sure dry pour is the easiest way to go, but it's been proven over and over, that the concrete is not designed to be done like this. Within a couple of years, it will begin to crack and crumble.
Nice👍🏽👍🏽
Sup DJ! Hope you’re doing well brother 🤘
What kind of paint did you use. Have you experienced any problem with the paint in time?
Watch out Good old chunks about to fresh it up and pour his concrete.. 🐐💩🤣😁🤣 nice work bro .!
😂😂 Chunk almost got his cemented for life 🤘🤘
Came out great! Where's that little cuties paw print? 😉
😂😂 I actually tried but the slab dried too soon. So need to do dry paw 😂😂
Thinking of doing this since I only have about an inch of soil before hard limestone in the yard? Why not wet it a bit underneath before the pour as well as half way through before adding that top mixture and leveling to ensure the water got all the way through?
Wetting prior gets really messy. I’ve noticed there’s really no need. The ground will always absorb rain that will make its way into the concrete if needed. Thanks for watching 💪
Looks great! What paint brand/type did you use on the concrete?
I used a tintable outdoor cement paint. I asked home depot what was best and they gave me their recommendation.
Since we are coming up on a year since you did this dry pour--could you do a 1 year follow-up video or comment--especially if you live in a freeze thaw clime.
And, of course, we need to see more of your Pup:-) Thanks.
Do you live in a warmer year round climate or does the ground freeze significantly in the winter?
Good job and I dill 😊
Thank you 😊
"I dill" ehh?? 😆👍
how long until it cures. i'd like to drill anchors for a post on it.
I like this alot but i would fertainly fill the edge where the wood was with water immediately
Man this is too cool I just may give this a shot. Thank you for putting this together and sharing TZ! Great video excellent content!
Awesome. Thanks brother 💪👊
You would be better off buying a wheel barrow and doing it right. This method can and will result in the slab not getting wet all the way through and thus a weak slab.
Very nice 👌
Don't forget to wear a mask when there is cement dust in the air.
How many inches is your 4x4 in depth? Did you wet your dirt prior to applying the dry concrete? And just curious, comparing dry concrete to mixed concrete, would you use the same amount of bags? (For your 4x4 form). Also which quickrete do you use? (There are so many different kinds) TY
4 inch in most areas. I didn’t even out the bottom soil so could be 5 inches in other areas. No I didn’t wet the bottom. I’ve poured a few of these now. The bottom will saturate from the ground pulling water as it rains so no need.
I used the quikrete seen in the video. The Yellow bags.
How many 60 lbs quickcretre for 4 × 4 ft. ? 😙 Are there 4 bags ? Thanks.
@@ramosochoa418 I used 6 bags of concrete. 2 bags of mortar and had left overs on both half bags.
The brick trick bro!
Yes sir 💪💪💪
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR Dammit! I watched this vid to late. I didn't use a brick. So simple and works great.
I want to see this done by using a ratio'd dry mix in a concrete mixer. Just to see if that works.
Awesome
What kind of wood u use for the frame? Nd the frame is not sticky to concrete?
Was it difficult to remove the frame day after and how did you do it? Did it stick to the concrete?
No not difficult at all. I used screws to hold. Just took them out and disassembled
I did notice a void when you beveled the side with a brick. How big was that void on the side?
I filled it with concrete. Not very big.
Would adding gravel or stones at the bottom make this stronger?
what brand did you use
Looks awesome, I'm assuming you watched the couple from LA, method? I was going to extend my back concrete porch some more maybe by 20-30 feet so wish me luck lol. But what made you look into putting mortar ontop and what are advantages/disadvantages.
Mortar creates a super smooth top for painting. Cement alone can leave stones or over time stones will surface. So if you want a really nice top I’d go with Mortar. Good luck!!
If you are doing a 20- 30ft extension doing a dry pour will be a waste of time and waste of money. Dry pours are great for small squares that are not structural and will only see light foot traffic but for a larger pour if you do it dry it will not last the strength is not there it will crack in no time.
@@beanieweenie9543 break a 30 foot up into smaller sections. Even a mixed pour will crack that large. Trust me I have a drive way full of cracks in a newer home😂😂👍
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR you should probably do a little research and watch some of the videos the concrete guys are putting out on testing dry pours verse doing it correctly before encouraging other people to waste their time and money.
@@beanieweenie9543 yeah so I already did and I’ve actually poured several of these one over a year ago thats 2 sections 18 feet by 14 feet zero cracks that a sledge hammer would have a hard time getting through. People have been doing this for decades. It’s just now making it to TH-cam. You should do it yourself before giving advice on a project you’ve not tested you’re self. I appreciate your uselessness.
Well done , if you were to integrate broken glass peices into your method when and how would you do it ?
I’d place it in dry powder before you hose it.
Thank you.
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR Thank you gonna give it a shot .
Should consider staining pad instead of painting, especially without using a vapor barrier on the bottom. Concrete will wick up moisture from ground and it will collect under paint eventually causing paint to blister and flake off.
Great tip! Thank you 💪
Thats is true!! Use Stain not paint!!!
How many bags did you pour?
Awesome job! Btw how many bags did you use?
6 cement and 2 Mortar
Thank you!
That looks great. I am planning on setting up a Gazebo on my backyard. I currently have a trampoline and the ground under the trampoline is covered with soft sand. Do i need to remove the soft sand or can i add some gravel on top and then poor the concrete? Do you think a 10 x 10 or 12 x 10 would be harder to do using your dry pour method? Thanks in advance!
I just dry poured an 18x15 and there was some sand and stone under the slab. It came out great. You can add some stone if you like Especially if the sand is deep. If the sand is only an in inch or so I dont see a problem.
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR Awesome and Thank you so much!!
Is the concrete more likely to crack considering no rebar or wire??? Under concrete?
quickrete is pretty strong material so probably doesn't require mesh or rebar over small area. i would be more concerned about cracking coming from the weak foundation underneath, since the surface is not compact, when you have just dirt instead of gravel. however if the slab is not meant to bear much weight it should be fine.
What if i have a low tree stump with a few roots? (Pecan tree)....can i do this right over it? Or do i have to remove, if so, how?
Large organic items may rot away over time leaving a large gap under your walkway. It’s a 50/50 shot. It can be done though.
What tpye if paint did you use?
Gonna try a 12x12 !
How'd it go Mike?
What was the thickness? How many bags?
Hmm. Do you think it will Crack or hold some concrete anchors screws?
It will hold anchors. No cracking. I’ve anchored a Gazebo to one already.
You said at the beginning of your video to make sure the FRAME is leveled. Does that mean if I'm putting it over a weeded area that i DON'T have to remove all the weeds to the dirt level? Just i have to make sure my frame is dug out evenly? And the mortar mix you use to make the top smother than when you use quickcrete?
Yes I’ve poured directly over grass with no issues.
My top is the mortar in the pic.
Mortar in video I mean. Ty
Take the extra step of removing the grass/weeds. By leaving the weeds you will create a void and have an uneven surface. What cracks concrete is the ground moving underneath. A hard compacted surface will give you the best results. In other words, the more solid the foundation, the stronger the surface will be. Level compacted dirt with a layer of gravel is best. I would have added some steel, before adding the top layer.
if dont want to layer crete under morter finish another route is get a vibration motor and screw it to a 2x6 board. pour in the crete level and then run that motor on top and just move it around every few mins. it will vibrate the bigs down
Wow. I never knew that. Thank you 💪💪
Is that a 2x4 frame?
Just a tip.. always wear Gloves!! Lime in concrete can burn
Otherwise...Good vid
once I see you break it up, to see how strong it is, I can then agree lol
Stay tuned for my Hulk Smash Video where I test dry Vs wet
@officialTeddyZaneDOGEWARRIOR if you do a video like that, be sure the slab has cured for at least 30 days, & that it's been adequately watered... the other guys are breaking them up within a day or so & with minimal water, so it's not a fair comparison at all. Especially, when most successful videos say these need 30 days minimum to cure & lots more water than they're being given
I need a slab to replace the motor in my '71 Elko. Has anyone had luck spinning a Big Block tied to a Turbo400 around on a cherry picker on these dry pours?
What kind of paint? Also, were you concerned how easy the top of the concrete scraped offf with a brick after one night? Good vid…
When you go to Home Depot or lowes tell them you’re painting outdoor cement and they’ll refer to the proper paint. . No on softness for sanding. My last saturation was around 10pm and temp had dropped to 60 degrees so I knew it wouldn’t fully dry overnight. Watch the part 2 video I just uploaded. It answers a lot of questions. Thank you.
@officialTeddyZaneDOGEWARRIOR I've heard it's not good to seal b4 thirty days...
Also, I've heard add Morter mix to the top will flake off, especially in colder climates...
What is your opinion, as I read you've done several for many yrs?
@@leahrowe847 the powder cement that you screed to the top of concrete is basically mortar. Mortar is cement. Higher quality mortar rates 6000lbs PSI will never flake off. There’s a cheaper mortar rated 1800lbs that could but I’ve not seen it happen down south. We live in Alabama. I’d use the higher 6000 that I show in the video if I were you. It’s extremely stable for up north winters.
@officialTeddyZaneDOGEWARRIOR awesome... thanks for the feedback. We want to extend our patio, so it'd be a 4-6'x10' section. Not really big, not weight bearing, but it's definitely gonna experience harsh, freezing & heavy snow
Luv how u used mortar for a nice looking top, yours is definitely the best, but the only thing I'm confused on is how many times to water it? Like 2 or 3? How long to run the watering hose? 3mins, 5mins and so on each time? 🎉😅
Thank you. The first 2 times I watered I just lightly misted until the entire top had turned a darker even shade. It only took 30 mins to dry and the top was nice and crispy. So I misted again gave it about 25% more water second time around. It then hardened really nice so I saturated it the next 3 times. It only drinks what it needs and it releases any over watering. Hope that helps. I allowed to dry over night and by morning I could walk on it but it was still soft enough to sand with a brick. Today it’s super hard and Dry. No way a brick would work to sand once fully dry. Thank you!!
Cajun County Living explains the process in detail... they're the creator's of the process; it's too bad people aren't giving credit to them!
@@leahrowe847 my method is different than theirs
Plus technically speaking if you want to give the original creator of the dry pour method credit find whoever first dry poured a fence post. Also I found their personalities and presentation annoying n couldn't watch the whole video.
@@leahrowe847 Cajun Country Living did not create this process so ease up on giving them credit. It's been used for years in some applications like setting fence posts but it is not at all used for anything structural. It's fine for making walksways or small slabs to put stuff on but you would be a fool to do this for an actual garage floor or anything else that needs to support significant weight and you want it to last without problems.
no steel reinforcement?
Does the ground in your state freeze and thaw?
No. Alabama winters aren’t bad at all.
👍👍👍
Hi, How many bags of each did you use?
6 cement 2 mortar
Advert for dermatitis right there
Ouch
You need to teach @DIYCoach how to do… well anything
Sounds great. Thank you.
Instead of mortar, you should have used a surface leveler
Awesome! Thanks for the tip 👍
I wonder if you rub your brick over surface it would be even smoother?
Yes definitely. Going to be a lot of work but it definitely stands concrete well.
Using the fast setting mortar over the top of the concrete mixture does make a smoother finish. However, it's entirely possible that the concrete didn't get as much moisture as it should have due to the mortar setting so quickly before allowing the subsequent waterings to get to the concrete mixture. Putting it over dirt will help in the long run since the concrete will wick moisture from the ground. But still... I would be interested to know how much water got to the concrete for proper setting.
I have an example I poured a few weeks ago. I’ll do a video on it. You are correct though. The fast setting has you working on the clock.
Using mortar mix is not a good idea in cold climates with frost either. It will crack and chip.
Best is to screed aggressively to get the aggregate down and the fines to the top. If you want a smother finish get a bag of regular Portland cement. Mix one part cement with about two parts sand and use something like a kitchen screen strainer and dust the mixture across the top. Like dusting powdered sugar on baked goods. Just an 1/8 inch layer will be enough. Then roll with a dry paint roller. When you water, use a fine mist and do not over water, For every half inch of slab you are making, do one watering 30 minutes apart. So a 3 inch slab should get 6 waterings, 30 minutes apart. A 3 inch slab should take about 3 hours to totally water. Misting is best, but avoid getting water starting to collect on the top.
Using the Portland cement adder on the top is cheaper and chemically compatible with the concrete mix. Mortar mix is not and you will have different densities and water absorption rates on the cured slab. That can cause issues if you get hard frosts, Making the simple Portland and sand mix is very easy and will be 100% compatible with the bagged concrete mix. Probably cost you a bit less too. Mortar mix is not the same, it has lime in it too.
top..........@@professorg8383
not a single mention about leveling? being square? pitch for water to drain off?
Viewers are usually cutting the video off within a watchtime of 33% .. therefor we call it trimming the fat. Don’t overload the video with useless info nobody will be interested in watching. Get right to the point and end. Now you know it’s not just about what you’re watching.
No rebar?
How much quikrete and powder mortar was used?
6 bags of Concrete and 2 bags mortar. I had a little mortar left over also.
So at what point are you using the broom to add texture? You seem to have left that out
The lines from the broom will add enough texture so you’re not slipping on your walkway. Shoes will grip. Thanks for watching !
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR yes I realize that, but you didn’t show in your process video at what point you used the broom to add that texture.
@@annewebbpots you’re right. I shoot through my videos too quickly. I definitely need to explain a bit more. Thanks for watching.
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR so at what point do you use the broom?
@@annewebbpots use the broom while it’s still dry or immediately after first mist
Will any type of mortar mix work?
Cheaper mortar u can use but it might not look as smooth when finished.
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR mortar is used for 1/4 up to 1/2 thick applications to assist bonding main building materials such as tile or brick. That entire top layer of mortar is going to splinter like a spider web and fall apart
How may bags did it take?
8 bags total 80lb bags
How do you figure out the amount of bags you need for your area?
I just guessed. Only $7 per bag
6 bags of cement and 2 bags of mortar.
And I had some left over also.
The bags usually have ratio calculations printed on them...
You watered it 5x times. Once every hour. And each was with more water? How much more like 20% more - just give aprox values?
After the 3rd light spray the top hardens really well. You can then saturate it a couple times. Let it dry over night. The next day it was 75% dry. I then sanded with a brick all the edges.
Temp hit 80 here in Alabama so it dried really well after I sanded. I then painted.
I'd really like for someone to do one with the intent to break it apart and investigate the integrity of the slab
I wouldn’t mind doing it on a smaller scale. Great idea.
Mike day concrete did one the other day
@@whipwhiphco9430 I just watched it after you mentioned it. After watching it, I couldn't help but feel like the experiment was doomed to fail and that he didn't follow the proper steps. I wasn't the only one either. I'd hope someone would do it with true intentions
@@officialTeddyZaneWARRIOR did you get started on the experiment?
@@MrQuipster4k yeah I’m ready to roll tape but it’s raining today. Waiting for it to lighten up. I filmed the 2 tests side by side the other day showing smooth top Vs rough top. Now I’m about to HULK SMASH one!!!
I would be hesitant to claim that this is good for 2000lbs just because that's what the bag said. Remember, those ratings are only applicable if the mixture was set as directed. Dry pour is clearly not 'as directed'. That's not to claim that the dry pour result is not more than suitable for light traffic and whatnot, but rather out of an abundance of caution until rigorous testing can back up such claims.
It’s actually 6000 lbs after 28 days per square inch. So even if I achieved half I’m at 3000lbs which it’ll never see. Thanks for watching 👊💪
What state do you live on in?
Alabama
I wonder if you can fill entirely with normal cement and then just use 1 bag of mortar to finish the top as you're finishing it, filling in any pits caused by the rocks? Maybe you get it "perfect" and then add a bag and rego over it filling in any holes and making a smooth finish
Why not buy ready made concrete paving slabs?
ok...enough with the brick already
Why not do it in layers and water as you go?
It gets really really messy when you water as you go.. no need though. Comes out great doing it the way I showed in the video.
Doesn’t anyone own gloves? A box of exam gloves is a couple of bucks, saves your skin. A mask will save your trachea, too. 😊
Lungs too. Breathing cement dust is not good for yah
Never hire a man who wears gloves. He’s either always taking them off or putting them on and never gets any work done! LOL LOL
@@railmakerskin grows back. Dust mask is probably a good idea.