There couldnt have been a more proper time to upload this, so super grateful! And so glad I found your channel, really loving your way of explaining things -for someone just starting out with film, going full manual without the safety net of a LCD screen is so daunting, especially if you're used to digital! So thanks!
Absolutely one of the best explanations I've come across. You really explain some minor but significant details that most don't think to mention. Thank you!
DUDE! Your video is SO helpful! I love how you mention the "creative effect" with each of the different variables, ISO, shutter speed, etc. Definitely subscribing, thanks a ton!
I still using my black Nikon FE. I love the needle indicator for the light meter and no model name on the front of the camera. Also the old Nikon logo looks cool! Thank you for the nice tip about setting the ISO one step down!
You forgot to tell that ISO and ASA is the same. Before ISO standard there was a race between ASA and DIN standards. For any new people to old cameras there is the ASA/DIN wheel to set the ISO with.
There was no race going on between DIN and ASA. ASA was the standard in America DIN was the standard in Deutschland ( Germany )' Almost every country where film factoties were had its standard for film speed. In the UK ( England ) : H&D In Belgium : Schnener in Hungary Gost And another 10 different,
Great tips for starters mate! I remember watched Matt Day few years ago when I 1st started so this should be really helpful for new shooters. BTW didn’t know you have Pentax 67 II must be amazing with 105 2.4!
Thanks! Haha yes watching Matt Day in the early days inspired the start of this channel. I have the first Pentax 6x7 (not 67 II) but that takumar 105 is amazing. Also adapts well to Pentax 645
Thank you for your lessons, especially your explanation on why one should pull, or push a film. and the need of a lightmeter. I will practice over and over with my Nikon F3 this week. So glad that I found you, and I also want to thank you for your list of interesting sites for beginners. I will follow you :-)
I was talking to a couple of friends about transitioning from film to digital being hard. Film is all about using the limitations to make great images. I had my favourite films and knew which ISO setting suited the conditions usually 2/3 of a stop down in contrasty light to hold shadow detail and, 2/3 of a stop up in soft light to get better highlights and better contrast. The sweet spot of most lenses is between f5.6 and f11. Slow shutter speeds give pictures more dynamism hence my shooting 1/15th with ISO 400 film in soft light with meter set at ISO 640. Metering on mid greys or, grass green for TTL metering or reflected hand held metering. Or wherever possible I’d incident read at the subject position, light arriving from the shooting position. Shooting neg stock is really a labour of love. None of these tricks is relevant to digital. With digital the camera is endlessly adjustable but feel is injected in post production or, by an image engine algorithm. The metering for film is where the feel comes from and you have to learn each film. Black and white is even more exciting in terms of what you can create with it. Digital shooters mostly make terrible black and white images usually too contrasty and lacking in tones or, microcontrast. Check out the greats, Salgado, Mapplethorpe, Man Ray, Cartier Bresson. tonality and plasticity are the domain of the black and white image and often a wonderful product of its limitations. Exposure is an art balancing the tonal range of the stock against the contrast of the light and compression at the far ends of the film gamma curve. Your video covers most points really well.
CHUCKY PLUTO, if you set the meter iso to 400 on the iso 800 film and do nothing else, you are getting more light onto the film. Your tonal compression will happen in the brighter tones in your image. You’re going to have more shadow detail to play with. If you are actually “pulling” the film that means overexposing and underdeveloping to arrive at the effect of using an iso 400 film. The effect will be softer highlight contrast and more saturation. So in answer to your question; yes you are exposing the film to twice as much light in both cases but, in one case you are shifting the mid grey in your tonal scale upwards, compressing the lighter tones at the top of the scale. Then in the printing, the print exposure compensates and you get great shadow detail and delicate detailing in your pale greys and whites because of extra contrast. In colour this will appear as a punchier effect. Pulling film gives slightly less saturation and more plasticity in the mid-tones with slightly less shadow detail. You need to play. Set up a portrait and shoot it three times, a stop under, dead-on, a stop over. You can start to see what the film prefers with the development and printing. Then try the same thing on another film but ask the developer to develop it at the pull exposure, i.e. pulled from iso800 to iso400. The film will have a sweet spot ( a look that you like) and you can decide what you like from what you see. Different films behave differently with some being more sensitive to exposure shifts than others.
What happens if I change the ISO on the same negatives? I was using 100 ISO for my Ilford, then I put it to 125 ISO as the box indicates. Will this damage the negatives?
Thanks for the great video! Been shooting digital for 5 years and just got my first film camera. You mentioned pushing and pulling film - shooting a 400 at 200 asa for example. Could you create the same creative effects by using exposure compensation opposed to this method?
No. If you underexpose you want to save the result by an extra log development. The result will be more contrast, more grain, blocked blacks If you overexpose, you need a shorter development: lower contrast, less grain and less whites
Great video! I tried to change my aperture on my 50mm Nikon but it doesn't open or close diafragm so my camera doesn't change shutter speed... I don't know if it's a camera problem because when I take off the lens it works ok
Hey Rafa, most the time you don't see the aperture close down until the shot is taken (try observing it with high aperture and fire a 2 sec shutter) In the video I held down the DOF Preview lever to demonstrate the movement. However if your light meter isn't responding to aperture changes, there could indeed be an issue worth checking.
*I usually do not write a long comment, but for this one; I have to say: You have mentioned all the points very clearly and effectively. Thank you so much for this video. I am learning film photography and correct me if I am wrong in the below points:* 1. Film loves light: While in digital (DSLR to Smartphone) it's better to underexpose the photo as in post production, you can always recover the details in the shadows. So, keep the highlights in focus. However, with film, it's always better to overexpose. Thus if I am using a Portra 800 and I am setting ASA at 600 or 400 is safer. 2. I always had the question of what's the lowest shutter speed you can use hand-held? And you have explained in a perfect manner. So, if I am using a 35mm lens, I can use 1/35 of a sec or to be on the safer side; I'd go 1/60 of a sec minimum. 3. The thing that gets confusing is, if I am following the light meter built in, how does the "Sunny 16" rules get implemented? So Sunny 16 is only for those who is not having any light meter at all? 4. And last but not the least; if having a lower f.stop increase the chances of "off focusing" the image, then if I have to use it in low light; even with Tripod, I should keep the f.stop at 2.0 minimum and lower the shutter speed as much as possible? PS: I have spectacles with negative power. So, while using the viewfinder, do I keep my glasses on or do I take it off? *Thank you so much. Love, Mutual Respect & World Peace from Calcutta, West Bengal, India.*
Hi, thanks for taking the time, I appreciate your engagement! All your points are correct. However, I'd like to add to your 4th point: Although it is true, using f2 would also give much less depth of field, so you would need to be precise with your focusing. It will also give a softer image, so if you can afford to use a longer shutter speed, stopping down a little is usually worthwhile since you're on a tripod anyway. To elaborate on your 3rd point also, yes Sunny 16 is just a method for estimating light when you don't have (or don't want to use) a meter.
I'm such a rebel and forget all the mentioned advise you perfectly went over... but again I have shot film for most of my childhood up to my adulthood that I forget sometimes as it is muscle memory. A lot of the times I forget what i put in the camera and end up shooting Sunny 16 rules due to the conditions I find myself in.Great tips Hashem! Everyone needs to learn to shoot fully manual if they want to create art!
Let's say you're shooting Potra 400 and want that light and airy look so you set your ISO at 100. Do you tell the light meter that you're at 100 or 400 iso?
Bravo!! What an exceptional clear explanation of shooting film using a manual camera! Not only do you cover all the key points clearly and succinctly, you do so without any filler words or lengthy dragged on discussion. Straight to the point and the descriptions are clear and to the point!!! I've watched many on TH-cam on photography but none even come close to what you have done in giving out his amount of information, clearly, in this short of time!!!
as a beginner looking into photography Im still confused a tad bit on ISO. You said we should set it to what the film says and leave it...but what if we want less or more light in to adjust the setting? Then would it be good to change it?
The only purpose you gain from setting the ISO on the camera is to tell it the 'sensitivity' (aka ISO) of your film stock, which in turn, will determine how the camera meter responds to light. Shooting the film at the ISO it states is termed shooting at 'box speed.' If you would like to underexpose (let less light in) or overexpose (let more light in) the film stock, you can do this 2 ways. 1. Change the ISO of the film stock on the camera. E.g you are shooting 400 film but you set 200. Since 200 film requires more light to expose correctly, your light meter will tell you the settings needed for 200 film, when in reality you have 400. This will therefore overexpose your film. You only need X amount of light for 400 ISO film but you are giving the film X + 1 amount of light since you tell your camera it is 200 ISO film. 2. Shoot at box speed, but alter your shutter speed/aperture accordingly. If you have 400 film loaded, set 400. But lets say a scene in front of you required 1/250 of a second and F8 for a correct expose - this is what your camera tells you. If you want to overexpose or underexpose, just deviate from the shutter speed and/or aperture they tell you. In short, if you want to manipulate how much light enters your camera and hits your film, you can do it one of the two ways above. I hope this helps. If you are still confused, I'm happy to answer any more questions. Don't be afraid to ask :)
@@benjamintan7294 for your explanation in #1 about overexposing your film (setting your ISO to 200 when you’ve got a 400 roll) do you need to notify your film developer when it comes to scanning and printing? Or do I scan/print as usual? Asking because when I develop my film, I’m given the option to push/pull stops, and I’m still not sure what that means. Also, would you recommend overexposing your film if you’re shooting indoors at night on a 400 ISO roll or just avoid shooting?
@@ebbyfabiola think about sunlight and developing chemicals as the two main factors that can change how film turns out. So if you use sunlight as your factor for change and overexpose, you don't need to let your lab know. However if you underexpose and don't have enough sunlight, you then need developing chemicals as your factor for change so you have usable results and actually get images back (you need to leave it in the developer for longer) and hence you then need to notify your lab if you underexpose film. Pushing film (underexpose) means giving your film a higher rating. E.g you have 400 ISO but you set 1600 ISO. (most push if they're shooting at night on low ISO film) Pulling film (overexpose) means setting your film at a lower setting. Most people only let the lab know when they push film if they shoot at midnight or evening but they don't have a high enough ISO film. If you're shooting indoors at night with 400 ISO film, it can work but you'd need to open your aperture up (F1.8, F2, F2.8 etc) and use a pretty low shutter speed (1/30, 1/15 etc). Honestly it all depends on how much ambient light you have. I have shot indoors at night before using 400 ISO and I used a tripod. In term of overexposing, it is generally better to overexpose film rather than underexpose if you are struggling to find the 'optimum' settings, most tend to lean toward overexposure.
My camera only allow me to adjust the ISO to 250 or 130. My film is Fujifilm C200. What would be the effect of taking pics with this film and the camera adjusted with 250 and 130?
Hey! The main thing with slide film that happens after long expiry is that it gets colour shifts. You don't need to increase exposure (shoot at lower ISO) for slide film expired up to 15-20 years in my experience. Beyond that you can increase exposure a bit, or it is often better to push process it a stop, or even cross process it as C41
I have a Pentax Spotmatic SP2, I need a tripod for night photos, do all tripods use the same screw type? The hole on the bottom of my camera looks like its a 1/4 inch one.
Probably a dumb question here - so the manual setting of aperture and shutter speed will be more or less the same for film rolls of different ISOs? And the only difference would be the graininess of the photos?
Hi, I'm new to shooting analog and I'm just lost at this one point: I've set my lens on the highest aperture number to get the whole picture in focus however my camera (Nikon F-65) has a little screen on top of it that asks me to choose an aperture number. Should it set it to the same number I set on my lens? (also, if I wanna lower this aperture number for a shot, should I change both the lens and the camera setting?) Thank you!!
Wow, I love your photos, what a magnificent video. It will be amazing if you took a peak at my channel to see if you like any of my videos. Keep up the superb work! I look forward to your next video.
@@pushingfilm how can I send you some? They aren't anything special though! Just was experimenting at the zoo to see what would happen. It does get a little cooler from being pushed
Yes, it is fine. You can change the ASA/ISO depending on what your intentions are with the roll of film. If you just want to get the correct exposure each time, you should just set the ASA to what the film stock says. However, if you want certain effects that you can achieve with underexposing/overexposing film, you can manipulate the amount of light you let into the camera.
2:22 So what I understood was if you should at a higher ISO than 400, you’re going to let in less light? And a lower number it’s the opposite? Why’s it the opposite for digital when you set your ISO higher, it gives you more light and a lower ISO number less light? I’m a little confused there.
You can, it just might mean that the latter shots with more exposure have a different look to first bunch! Shouldn't be a problem if your film is being scanned.
1:35 This is the best and simplest explanation for the ISO settings on a film camera, I already knew what ISO is but no matter what I searched on the internet everything just explained what ISO is and what role it plays in exposure, but nothing explained what the ISO settings on the camera itself did. I didn't know what the ISO knob on my medium format camera was doing to affect my image or what it was doing at all so I never changed it from 100. Now I thankfully understand that all the ISO setting does on the camera is affect the light meter to be set to the given ISO, thank you so much, for this informative video. Now I can actually put it to use.
You say we should have the shutter speed no smaller than the focal point of the lenses, but you don't explain why. Can someone care to give me an explanation on this?
I cant believe iv finally found someone who can explain this in simple terms!!! thaknyou so much!
Very glad to help! Thanks for the feedback 😁
There couldnt have been a more proper time to upload this, so super grateful! And so glad I found your channel, really loving your way of explaining things -for someone just starting out with film, going full manual without the safety net of a LCD screen is so daunting, especially if you're used to digital! So thanks!
Glad it could be some help!
Absolutely one of the best explanations I've come across. You really explain some minor but significant details that most don't think to mention. Thank you!
DUDE! Your video is SO helpful! I love how you mention the "creative effect" with each of the different variables, ISO, shutter speed, etc. Definitely subscribing, thanks a ton!
Glad to hear that, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to comment 🙏
Does anyone know the camera on the right side of the thumbnail?
It's a Pentax 654N
I still using my black Nikon FE.
I love the needle indicator for the light meter and no model name on the front of the camera.
Also the old Nikon logo looks cool! Thank you for the nice tip about setting the ISO one step down!
this was so helpful! thank you!
Glad it helped!
You forgot to tell that ISO and ASA is the same. Before ISO standard there was a race between ASA and DIN standards. For any new people to old cameras there is the ASA/DIN wheel to set the ISO with.
There was no race going on between DIN and ASA.
ASA was the standard in America
DIN was the standard in Deutschland ( Germany )'
Almost every country where film factoties were had
its standard for film speed.
In the UK ( England ) : H&D
In Belgium : Schnener
in Hungary Gost
And another 10 different,
Great tips for starters mate! I remember watched Matt Day few years ago when I 1st started so this should be really helpful for new shooters. BTW didn’t know you have Pentax 67 II must be amazing with 105 2.4!
It's the camera and modified lens of choice of the great Nick Brandt!
Thanks! Haha yes watching Matt Day in the early days inspired the start of this channel. I have the first Pentax 6x7 (not 67 II) but that takumar 105 is amazing. Also adapts well to Pentax 645
Great job! This was such an easy to understand and concise video 😊 so helpful! Can't wait for the upcoming workshop on Sunday!
It helps having a model to show off the different photo samples 😁
Thank you for your lessons, especially your explanation on why one should pull, or push a film. and the need of a lightmeter. I will practice over and over with my Nikon F3 this week.
So glad that I found you, and I also want to thank you for your list of interesting sites for beginners. I will follow you :-)
So glad it could help! Enjoy your film journey 😁
I was talking to a couple of friends about transitioning from film to digital being hard. Film is all about using the limitations to make great images. I had my favourite films and knew which ISO setting suited the conditions usually 2/3 of a stop down in contrasty light to hold shadow detail and, 2/3 of a stop up in soft light to get better highlights and better contrast. The sweet spot of most lenses is between f5.6 and f11. Slow shutter speeds give pictures more dynamism hence my shooting 1/15th with ISO 400 film in soft light with meter set at ISO 640. Metering on mid greys or, grass green for TTL metering or reflected hand held metering. Or wherever possible I’d incident read at the subject position, light arriving from the shooting position. Shooting neg stock is really a labour of love. None of these tricks is relevant to digital. With digital the camera is endlessly adjustable but feel is injected in post production or, by an image engine algorithm. The metering for film is where the feel comes from and you have to learn each film. Black and white is even more exciting in terms of what you can create with it. Digital shooters mostly make terrible black and white images usually too contrasty and lacking in tones or, microcontrast. Check out the greats, Salgado, Mapplethorpe, Man Ray, Cartier Bresson. tonality and plasticity are the domain of the black and white image and often a wonderful product of its limitations. Exposure is an art balancing the tonal range of the stock against the contrast of the light and compression at the far ends of the film gamma curve. Your video covers most points really well.
CHUCKY PLUTO, if you set the meter iso to 400 on the iso 800 film and do nothing else, you are getting more light onto the film. Your tonal compression will happen in the brighter tones in your image. You’re going to have more shadow detail to play with.
If you are actually “pulling” the film that means overexposing and underdeveloping to arrive at the effect of using an iso 400 film. The effect will be softer highlight contrast and more saturation.
So in answer to your question; yes you are exposing the film to twice as much light in both cases but, in one case you are shifting the mid grey in your tonal scale upwards, compressing the lighter tones at the top of the scale. Then in the printing, the print exposure compensates and you get great shadow detail and delicate detailing in your pale greys and whites because of extra contrast. In colour this will appear as a punchier effect.
Pulling film gives slightly less saturation and more plasticity in the mid-tones with slightly less shadow detail.
You need to play. Set up a portrait and shoot it three times, a stop under, dead-on, a stop over. You can start to see what the film prefers with the development and printing.
Then try the same thing on another film but ask the developer to develop it at the pull exposure, i.e. pulled from iso800 to iso400. The film will have a sweet spot ( a look that you like) and you can decide what you like from what you see. Different films behave differently with some being more sensitive to exposure shifts than others.
This info could have been useful about 1 month ago. But I’ve been shooting 400iso film at 200 ASA mostly at f2-4 at 1/500 (Nikon FE 50mm f1.8)
Great video with some awesome info for beginners.
Thanks Darryl!
Great vid. Does it matter if you shoot in full or 1/3 aperture stops with 35mm film?
What happens if I change the ISO on the same negatives? I was using 100 ISO for my Ilford, then I put it to 125 ISO as the box indicates. Will this damage the negatives?
Thanks for the great video! Been shooting digital for 5 years and just got my first film camera.
You mentioned pushing and pulling film - shooting a 400 at 200 asa for example. Could you create the same creative effects by using exposure compensation opposed to this method?
No.
If you underexpose you want to save the result by an extra log development.
The result will be more contrast, more grain, blocked blacks
If you overexpose, you need a shorter development: lower contrast, less grain
and less whites
Great video! I tried to change my aperture on my 50mm Nikon but it doesn't open or close diafragm so my camera doesn't change shutter speed... I don't know if it's a camera problem because when I take off the lens it works ok
Hey Rafa, most the time you don't see the aperture close down until the shot is taken (try observing it with high aperture and fire a 2 sec shutter) In the video I held down the DOF Preview lever to demonstrate the movement. However if your light meter isn't responding to aperture changes, there could indeed be an issue worth checking.
@@pushingfilm That was what I thought... I'll check it. Thanks a lot!
*I usually do not write a long comment, but for this one; I have to say: You have mentioned all the points very clearly and effectively. Thank you so much for this video. I am learning film photography and correct me if I am wrong in the below points:*
1. Film loves light: While in digital (DSLR to Smartphone) it's better to underexpose the photo as in post production, you can always recover the details in the shadows. So, keep the highlights in focus. However, with film, it's always better to overexpose. Thus if I am using a Portra 800 and I am setting ASA at 600 or 400 is safer.
2. I always had the question of what's the lowest shutter speed you can use hand-held? And you have explained in a perfect manner. So, if I am using a 35mm lens, I can use 1/35 of a sec or to be on the safer side; I'd go 1/60 of a sec minimum.
3. The thing that gets confusing is, if I am following the light meter built in, how does the "Sunny 16" rules get implemented? So Sunny 16 is only for those who is not having any light meter at all?
4. And last but not the least; if having a lower f.stop increase the chances of "off focusing" the image, then if I have to use it in low light; even with Tripod, I should keep the f.stop at 2.0 minimum and lower the shutter speed as much as possible?
PS: I have spectacles with negative power. So, while using the viewfinder, do I keep my glasses on or do I take it off?
*Thank you so much. Love, Mutual Respect & World Peace from Calcutta, West Bengal, India.*
Hi, thanks for taking the time, I appreciate your engagement! All your points are correct. However, I'd like to add to your 4th point: Although it is true, using f2 would also give much less depth of field, so you would need to be precise with your focusing. It will also give a softer image, so if you can afford to use a longer shutter speed, stopping down a little is usually worthwhile since you're on a tripod anyway. To elaborate on your 3rd point also, yes Sunny 16 is just a method for estimating light when you don't have (or don't want to use) a meter.
I'm such a rebel and forget all the mentioned advise you perfectly went over... but again I have shot film for most of my childhood up to my adulthood that I forget sometimes as it is muscle memory. A lot of the times I forget what i put in the camera and end up shooting Sunny 16 rules due to the conditions I find myself in.Great tips Hashem! Everyone needs to learn to shoot fully manual if they want to create art!
Haha no worries man! Thanks for watching. Yeah we all need refreshers sometimes :)
Let's say you're shooting Potra 400 and want that light and airy look so you set your ISO at 100. Do you tell the light meter that you're at 100 or 400 iso?
100 ISO 🙂👍
Bravo!! What an exceptional clear explanation of shooting film using a manual camera! Not only do you cover all the key points clearly and succinctly, you do so without any filler words or lengthy dragged on discussion. Straight to the point and the descriptions are clear and to the point!!! I've watched many on TH-cam on photography but none even come close to what you have done in giving out his amount of information, clearly, in this short of time!!!
Hey, thanks so much for such great feedback. Really appreciate it 🙂
I have watched so many videos and this is the best explanation I have come across! Thank you!
Happy it helped 🙂
as a beginner looking into photography Im still confused a tad bit on ISO. You said we should set it to what the film says and leave it...but what if we want less or more light in to adjust the setting? Then would it be good to change it?
The only purpose you gain from setting the ISO on the camera is to tell it the 'sensitivity' (aka ISO) of your film stock, which in turn, will determine how the camera meter responds to light. Shooting the film at the ISO it states is termed shooting at 'box speed.'
If you would like to underexpose (let less light in) or overexpose (let more light in) the film stock, you can do this 2 ways.
1. Change the ISO of the film stock on the camera. E.g you are shooting 400 film but you set 200. Since 200 film requires more light to expose correctly, your light meter will tell you the settings needed for 200 film, when in reality you have 400. This will therefore overexpose your film. You only need X amount of light for 400 ISO film but you are giving the film X + 1 amount of light since you tell your camera it is 200 ISO film.
2. Shoot at box speed, but alter your shutter speed/aperture accordingly. If you have 400 film loaded, set 400. But lets say a scene in front of you required 1/250 of a second and F8 for a correct expose - this is what your camera tells you. If you want to overexpose or underexpose, just deviate from the shutter speed and/or aperture they tell you.
In short, if you want to manipulate how much light enters your camera and hits your film, you can do it one of the two ways above.
I hope this helps. If you are still confused, I'm happy to answer any more questions. Don't be afraid to ask :)
@@benjamintan7294 for your explanation in #1 about overexposing your film (setting your ISO to 200 when you’ve got a 400 roll) do you need to notify your film developer when it comes to scanning and printing? Or do I scan/print as usual? Asking because when I develop my film, I’m given the option to push/pull stops, and I’m still not sure what that means. Also, would you recommend overexposing your film if you’re shooting indoors at night on a 400 ISO roll or just avoid shooting?
@@ebbyfabiola think about sunlight and developing chemicals as the two main factors that can change how film turns out. So if you use sunlight as your factor for change and overexpose, you don't need to let your lab know. However if you underexpose and don't have enough sunlight, you then need developing chemicals as your factor for change so you have usable results and actually get images back (you need to leave it in the developer for longer) and hence you then need to notify your lab if you underexpose film.
Pushing film (underexpose) means giving your film a higher rating. E.g you have 400 ISO but you set 1600 ISO. (most push if they're shooting at night on low ISO film) Pulling film (overexpose) means setting your film at a lower setting. Most people only let the lab know when they push film if they shoot at midnight or evening but they don't have a high enough ISO film.
If you're shooting indoors at night with 400 ISO film, it can work but you'd need to open your aperture up (F1.8, F2, F2.8 etc) and use a pretty low shutter speed (1/30, 1/15 etc). Honestly it all depends on how much ambient light you have. I have shot indoors at night before using 400 ISO and I used a tripod. In term of overexposing, it is generally better to overexpose film rather than underexpose if you are struggling to find the 'optimum' settings, most tend to lean toward overexposure.
@@benjamintan7294 Thank you!
My camera only allow me to adjust the ISO to 250 or 130. My film is Fujifilm C200. What would be the effect of taking pics with this film and the camera adjusted with 250 and 130?
How about the iso on expired slide film?
Hey! The main thing with slide film that happens after long expiry is that it gets colour shifts. You don't need to increase exposure (shoot at lower ISO) for slide film expired up to 15-20 years in my experience. Beyond that you can increase exposure a bit, or it is often better to push process it a stop, or even cross process it as C41
@@pushingfilm Tnx!
I have a Pentax Spotmatic SP2, I need a tripod for night photos, do all tripods use the same screw type? The hole on the bottom of my camera looks like its a 1/4 inch one.
Hey, the vast majority of tripods will have the standard 1/4 size socket!
Pushing Film sick thanks
Probably a dumb question here - so the manual setting of aperture and shutter speed will be more or less the same for film rolls of different ISOs? And the only difference would be the graininess of the photos?
love my f3hp, so glad i took the plunge, awesome machine, id like to grab an fm2n too soon.
keep the 35mm rolling brother 😁
If you do not have lightmeter
Use a light meter app, and/or learn sunny 16 :-)
That was a very wonderful presentation thank you so much 😊
Thank you so much, after this video i finally decided to go out an shoot 😭🙌🏻💖
Very well done video.
thank you very much for making this video! :)
2:35
This has exactly the photo effect i want. Faded and grainy.
Which settings can I achieve with a 200 ISO film ? Is there anyone who can help ?
Hey man, just generally underexpose your film for that effect! One stop is a good start. So with a 200 ISO film, shoot it at 400.
@@pushingfilm thank you!
Hi, I'm new to shooting analog and I'm just lost at this one point: I've set my lens on the highest aperture number to get the whole picture in focus however my camera (Nikon F-65) has a little screen on top of it that asks me to choose an aperture number. Should it set it to the same number I set on my lens? (also, if I wanna lower this aperture number for a shot, should I change both the lens and the camera setting?)
Thank you!!
Wow, I love your photos, what a magnificent video. It will be amazing if you took a peak at my channel to see if you like any of my videos. Keep up the superb work! I look forward to your next video.
Thanks man! Will do
I've pushed Ektachrome 100 +1 stop and had perfectly fine images and not much more grain
Oh nice! Would be keen to see the results 😀
@@pushingfilm how can I send you some? They aren't anything special though! Just was experimenting at the zoo to see what would happen. It does get a little cooler from being pushed
@@jameslane3846 fair enough! Either contact us through the email link on youtube, or message through instagram 👍
Is it fine to change the ASA when I am shooting for a roll of film?
Yes, it is fine. You can change the ASA/ISO depending on what your intentions are with the roll of film. If you just want to get the correct exposure each time, you should just set the ASA to what the film stock says. However, if you want certain effects that you can achieve with underexposing/overexposing film, you can manipulate the amount of light you let into the camera.
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Super useful. Thank you
Very helpful, thank you!
this was so helpful thank you!!
2:22 So what I understood was if you should at a higher ISO than 400, you’re going to let in less light? And a lower number it’s the opposite? Why’s it the opposite for digital when you set your ISO higher, it gives you more light and a lower ISO number less light? I’m a little confused there.
Same question, I was also confused.
which camera are you using?
Great video
Thank you!
yes, this video did make sense to write a blog on film photography. thank you
This video really helped, thank you so much ! I'm very grateful, all was very well explained !
That's great! I'm so glad 😁
i have a kodak colorplus so should i put the ISO on my camera 400 or 200 is just fine
Putting it on 400 would UNDERexpose the film.
the video was extremely helpful! thank you so much!!! :)
Glad it helped you!
I love your shutter button
Super informative and easy to follow, thanks!
this video really helped me, so tnx
Great video!
Thanks man 😊
Anytime!
How bad is the voice sync
Nobody was able to explain to my son that clear...super!
Really glad it could help!
helpfullll and easy to understand thankssss
I'm saving this. Thank you!
This vid is very helpful thank you. Can you change the ISO mid roll? (E.g on a 400 iso film, is it safe to lower the iso as you mention?)
You can, it just might mean that the latter shots with more exposure have a different look to first bunch! Shouldn't be a problem if your film is being scanned.
Pushing Film thanks for the reply :)
Thank you!
Are you related to Julia Trotti?
Haha no I actually didnt know who that was and after looking her up I can see a slight resemblance 😂
what is ur favourite colour film hashem?
It is Kodak Ektar!
Pushing Film The right light can really make Ektar sing - a great color film!
1:35 This is the best and simplest explanation for the ISO settings on a film camera, I already knew what ISO is but no matter what I searched on the internet everything just explained what ISO is and what role it plays in exposure, but nothing explained what the ISO settings on the camera itself did. I didn't know what the ISO knob on my medium format camera was doing to affect my image or what it was doing at all so I never changed it from 100. Now I thankfully understand that all the ISO setting does on the camera is affect the light meter to be set to the given ISO, thank you so much, for this informative video. Now I can actually put it to use.
thanks man,helped lot. i still dont fully understand my camera,but now i atlest dont compleatly ruin my shots
I don't understand why so many youtubers film themself instead of the stuff they are talking about, i mean come on ...
I always use 100 ASA film ( Provia and Acros) rated at 84 ASA and it renders perfectly- but we don't agree on anything you cover in your video.
You say we should have the shutter speed no smaller than the focal point of the lenses, but you don't explain why. Can someone care to give me an explanation on this?
me too please
TheAndersops: Its just a "rule of thumb" which works for most people......some people have steadier hands than others.