Thanks from a life long sharpening student. Appreciate your letting us in on your quest. Hopefully will cut down on a few expensive mistakes we might have made. Your journey to the "grail" of sharpening stones is very helpful. Am now currently saving up money to get that set of bonded stones you recommended.
I didn't believe stropping itself was that important. Then I actually did it and now my blades are stupid sharp. My sharpening journey has been awesome and informative. Thanks for the advice Jerad
Just the opposite for me. My edges got way better when I quit stropping and leaned to remove the burr on the stone. Not saying it's better, just a method.
There's definitely a balance, burr removal is extremely important, so is stropping. If your burr comes off perfectly you barely need to strop after if at all, however in many cases it's absolutely required. And it's great for maintenance
@@JohnDoe-zb7dz i would say strop on a fixed angle sharpner like this with a leather strop and some diamond compound a couple of times per side is a game changer and then bare leather. but to each their own, eventually it's the law of diminishing returns.
Appreciate someone talking about burr removal. I remember when people avocated running an edge through wood. After you get to where you want your edge its ALL about minimization and removal!
@@JohnDoe-zb7dz Sadly, in some somewhat gummy steels it is almost impossible. I do agree in general with you however. For a pro sharpener it is often a one time thing one customers knife. Or my own personal knives which get sharpened a lot, a burr is tantamount to throwing away steel. But it does require a higher abrasion resistant steel with preferably a hard higher RHc. KnifeMaker
Thanks for dropping all that knowledge, I'm looking for a great stone set and listening to your quest will make sure I take the best decision, these stone look great. cheers
I’ve heard about the super vitrified diamond stones from Triple B but they are $400 a piece and usually sold out. There’s one other place that I heard about that are about the same. I’m not sure if Shaun makes them, has them made, or just knows the manufacturer. Anyway, I watched him use them and it was pretty impressive. Maybe it was just because he was doing it and is so much higher skilled than I am. I can’t come close to you or Big Brown Bear and even though I started with a Buck 110 and a cheap oil stone back in the seventies but just did it off and on through the years. I didn’t start to get real results until I found you about four or five years ago… I don’t remember exactly, but after I put away my King stone and got some DMT and Atoma plates I found out what I was capable of doing. It made all the difference in the world. I got a Venev but I think I need to flatten it. It’s also a lot slower than the plates but I think I’m starting to figure it out. Anyway, great video Jared! Looking forward to seeing more!
@@NeevesKnives I’m looking forward to it!! I forgot to mention I started hearing about the CBN stones a while back, probably from you, but I didn’t really see anything that I wanted that I could afford. It’s like that with so many things. Right now I’m trying to save up for a new hip. I have insurance but it’s a Medicare Advantage through Humana and it leaves a lot to be desired. I have had a lot of back surgeries and a few on my neck and all my extra money has been going towards my medical expenses, but things will get better so I’m not complaining.
The cover picture for this video: to sharp or not to sharp, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous sharpness
Man you make me want to get some really good steel and stones to do this. I get frustrated with my budget knives and field sharpener lol. I've been trying different techniques to get more performance but just can't get the results I want. Some day I'll be able to afford the good stuff...
Thanks very much Jerad, I was just looking at TSPROF’s new bonded stones for my K03, as an upgrade to the so-so ones it came with, but these look even better. And thanks for mentioning the soapy water; some other bench stones you recommended a couple years ago on Amazon say to use some stuff called Krud Cutter, and I was thinking to use that here as well. I’ll give the site time to update; the closest I can find to your 7 piece set here has 6 stones, and the grits mentioned are confusing. It first says grits are from #80 - #10.000, then gives other designations for grit that don’t make as much sense: Grit sizes: F160, F285, F325, F650, F1500, F3000. (?) Thanks again! 👍
You can choose any set you want. At the web-site you can find sets which company offers. But you can choose Hybrids stone CBN and choose any stone you want and get your personal set. You can choose the same stones like Jerad have in the video
@@VooDooPoltavaYes, I know, I’ve seen all the sets as I said, but they don’t have this one of 7 stones. They have one set of 4 and another of 6 and something else I don’t recall that costs more. I could buy the stones individually and not get the box and pay $80 per stone, but I’d rather pay less and get the set. I’m also not going to buy without understanding why they have two different grit designations in the description like I put in my post, and what they mean. I’ll wait till they have the set, then only buy the 10,000 grit individually for full price.
@@E.L.RipleyAtNostromo Give them a call. Poltava will explain the grit ratings to you. there is a chart at Grit-O-Matic that list the girts used around the world and their equivalents to one another. KnifeMaker
Great information as usual. I appreciate the level of dedication to your craft. I am the same way with my knives. Would you know if the kit of pro diamond sharpeners fit the Work Sharp Precision Sharpener? I'd be grateful for any info. Thanks.
All I can say is thank you very kindly Jerad for the information you provided and there’s nothing like listening to the opinion of someone that has more knowledge than ourselves that’s how we learn, apart from the TH-camrs that just spit out 💩they get paid to say. If you ever fall into that category I’m sending you my socks and that would be worse than death by ants eating you from the inside of your balloon knot and working their way slowly out!! 😂 As always excellent video stay safe and healthy both J&K have a beautiful week 🫵🏻😘👍🏼
I just recently (on your advice) bought 3 new rather expensive diamond sharpening plates and now you tell us they not are as good as these hybrid ones!
Your videos have taken my sharpening to the next level I am going to pickup this stones 2 questions when looking at the stones they say 160/25 what do those numbers mean and can I use a flating stone when I first get them I don't have a plate and dust thanks paul
This is a long one, sorry. I've wondered that for a long time and I've never seen a definitive answer. I've read a forum post from the guy who makes the Columbia Gorge Stoneworks resin stones that the bulk diamonds he buys are marked with a range of sizes for the diamonds. I would bet money at this point that 160/125 means 125 microns to 160 microns. 0/1 seems kind of confusing but it would just mean that the max size is 1 micron and the minimum is < 1 (think 0.8 or 0.9). Sometimes the numbers are in a different order (e.g. 125/160). I don't think it matters if they are just specifying max/min. Hope this helps, and if I'm wrong I hope someone corrects me so I can actually know what it really means.
Hey Jerad, thanks a lot for your vids, I have 2 lil questions that I keep asking myself, maybe you can please enlighten me ? : - how do you maintain the flatness of these CBN hybrid stones ? - what is that water you use for sharpening ? Water + Soap ? Thanks a lot for your answer :) keep up the good job !! Big up from France !
Well soon we should have all versions in freehand stones, atm only the metal cbn 3x8s unless you like using smaller stones like some do and I also do sometimes
I'm using stones from the quarry up the road and Auto sandpaper. It works and I can afford it. I really do need some quality stones for these quality knives though..
@FrankToThePoint yeah I would recommend just getting a good set of diamond plates, in fact work sharp has the benchstone that has the angle guides built in 2 diamond plates and ceramic for 50$
On the guided sharpening system why do you clamp the blade way far to the rear by the handle I always thought that the blade had to be clamped in the middle can you please explain why you do this maybe I've been doing the wrong the whole time thank you
Where do I get the correct nagura stone I have the resin bonded USA market and will be getting those hybrids there’s so many different versions of the nagura I don’t know what’s the right one to get
It's actually amazing sharpening stone. Hope the price drop little bit. For 56 buck damn. I can afford it if I bought 1 stone for that month. And buy other 1 next month until I have complete set. 😂😂
Tried a few kinds of bonded stones and edge pro diamond matrix are my favorite. They don't cut as fast, but the finish and edge they give is superior imo. Another 3 stones i enjoy are 800 boron carbide "ceramic" (found on Amazon, really love the edge it gives), 3K Ruby ceramic and 8k Suehiro G8 SiC (finest SiC stone available) for anything in s30v/m390 class (4% Vanadium and lower) but not the best for 10v/s90v class steels or high hardness tool steels.
It’s a promotion. It’s a school. It’s a Schomotion..Proool. I like mirror polish scratch pattern. Mirror Saw. Itty bitty teensee weensee serrated shine. Happy accident…and I liked it. I watch for the teach as well. Th ank
this is one of those items before i buy, i would like to send you one of my knives to see how sharp you can get it and pay shipping to and from and for your time to be sold. do you offer anything like that?
Not really I typically just use one, if it's a super fine stone you might want to use a coarse then a fine. I usually just take my conditioning stone to after if it's needed which it's usually not
Hey Jarred, love your channel! I want to put a beautiful mirror edge on some of my non user knives, so I don't care about cutting performance. Do you recommend I get real diamond stones then? Also, would I strop after stone sharpening? Also, I'm talking about putting a mirror edge on high end knives that have their factory edge. TIA!
So of you want a good mirror edge then you have to progress from coarse to medium , fine then up to ultra fine then polish. You can use diamond plates up to a certain grit then ceramic, or get one resin bonded diamond stone. I personally would use all bonded stones but it's not required if you can get up to about 1500 grit with diamond plates then use a bonded diamond, you need to get over 2k to use the ceramic. Yes you always want to strop after sharpening
IIRC the industry standard for 100% concentration stones is 4 or 4.4 carats per CC of bond agent. 3mm thick stones are around 11CC of volume so 44+ carats per stone. Have you gotten back to your Hapstone Premium CBN? They are hybrid bond as well. Once I lapped past the silver mold release layer mine have been performing amazingly, they cut much faster after. I got a Hapstone Premium diamond recently due to a shipping mistake and they came seemingly ready to go, no lapping required or silver layer on them. You can easily feel the diamond where the CBN versions were almost glass smooth. Not sure if they changed things up or if the manufacturing process on them is different. I talked with Hapstone a while back and sent them the same album I sent you of the before/after lapping and my results and they said they would send my results to their engineering team so things might be improved in the future. I am looking forward to seeing how all your testing on the new stones goes.
Is there a kit or something? Looked on the site and it looks like its just these individually for 80 a piece with like 15 to choose from. Im still a novice and just bought some cheap diamond stones from amazon. Seem to work pretty well though. I can get it to where it cuts paper pretty easily but never reached shaving sharp. Cant seem to get there anyway, just looking for good stones and a sharpening that work with each other and i dont need a loan for.
I do respekt your choice in Stones if you kan call them that ,my choice is and always will be natrual sharpeningstones ,I have handsharpend knives most off my life and I enjoy the fell and sound off the metal against the Stone also some natrual Stones are very pleasing to the eye somethimes i might not be as effektive as your fanzy system but my knives wiil cut i mostly sharpen japanese kitchenknifes and bushcraftknifes
Im fairly new to sharpening. I bought a tsprof ko3 since two of my family members are chefs and they have a lot of knives i get to sharpen. I purchased a tsprof ko3 to assist me in this endevor. As such i have a few questions. I sharpen many different types of steel. If one was limited in the amount of stones one could afford what general grits would recommendation? Do you have a step by step video shapening on a tsprof ko2/3?
I have a few tsprof videos, I have one on the k03 but it's not a step by step, however I have tons of videos talking about the stones you want depending on your budget. All you really need is a coarse between 100 and 140, a 400 -600 stone for medium, then a 1000-1200 grit and a ceramic would be nice for burr removal or you could but one bonded diamond stone. I would recommend getting either the Atoma 1x6 sharpening stones, or the Hapstone Starts in those grit ratios. As far as a bonded stone for a finishing/burr removal stone you can get one of these stones from usa market either the 3k or 5k stone or get venev bonded stones in the f800 or f1200, there's grit ratio is different those would be 3k and 5k I have everything linked down in description between the NeevesKnives store and sharpening supplies link, hapstone link, and USA market link, the hapstone link also has bonded stones, just make sure they are 1x6 inch stones
5:47 - Oof this is a whole can of worms to open up isnt it? :D Anyway I assume this is the scienceofsharp article on carbides in K390 right? I do think this could be a bit misleading, because the pictures shown of having exposed carbides are not necessarily stated to be a bad thing and are from the factory edge and a natural arkansas stone only. So one of them is what Spyderco wants you to have from factory, the other is from a stone that (at least I find) struggles with alot of steels already. And yeah ig im super biased from having bad experience with those stones and their Finnish counterparts haha. Todd does go into more spesifics on how different steels wear down differently in his carbides in maxamet article, where exposed carbides is desirable for a "toothy" edge on steels that tend to glass out, but what I find very interesting there is in the comments where he says taking out more matrix material on purpose is just one of several ways to create an edge with the properties you actually want along with geometry, grit, finish etc. For me that seems to fit well with maxamet and cruwear which tends to glass out alot for me at least. He also answers a question there where he states that the main culprit of carbide crushing is poor sharpening technique and not necessarily the abrasive medium, but he does mention ceramics as particularly easy to mess up on. Which again is a bit funny to me since ceramic is my preferred stone for cruwear in particular I cant remember what article it is, I tried looking, but there is one where he tests out different stones and its effects on harder steels, and pretty much concludes that theres no evidence you cant sharpen steels with high vanadium carbide concentration on regular water stones and such, that it just requires a little less pressure and more time (which obviously means more chances to mess up). This does make sense to me at least, not only because my own experience tells me one of the best edges ive gotten on K390 was from a regular naniwa waterstone, but also from a logic standpoint. The vanadium carbides in a supersteel is the same 9.5 mohs hardness as the vanadium carbides in steels like D2, so that should mean a D2 knife is just as impossible to sharpen on aluminium oxide too, but it obviously isnt. I dont understand all of this tbh as it gets very complicated very fast, and I dont mean this as a sh!t tossing thing either, but from a one sharpening nerd to another I just find the topic very interesting, and the more I learn about it the more I realize there is no right or wrong as long as one understand what one is doing and why... And of course actually do it on purpose 😂 This was just meant as offering a different take/understanding of it That being said, I do think you are one of the best at this in the knife community on this platform and I would absolutely check out your stones if you have some sort of colab going
Here is what you are missing. Yes, the carbides can ge on the edge with any stone. But are more rounded and not sharp unless using diamond or cbn. think of it this way. Ever seen concrete with the river pebbles in it. They are harder than the concrete but are rounded when exposed. Same with steel with high carbide content. These pebbles are yes there, and abrasion resistant. They will cut longer. But if not themselves sharpened to an apex rather than rounded and smooth, they will never cut near as keenly as carbides that have be brought to a fine edge themselves. the only thing a King or ceramic stone can do is lightly polish the rounded carbides. that's is all they can do. Which of course will quickly feel what you perceive as glassy. KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ Years in the Craft
@@VooDooPoltava Still, I don't see a point in dropping that much money unless there is a return on that investment, as in, you're a professional knife sharpener. A $30 ceramic rod and a piece of leather glued to a 1x4 and I can shave with just about any knife I own withing a few minutes, except a Spyderco Dragonfly that has ZDP-189, that shit's hard
@@BioHorrorKnives can even sharped with a brick to honest )) But there are a lot of people who have knives with modern super hard steel and to make it very sharp for a long time you need high quality tools. And these stones will last for ever. You buy them once for 10-20 years. With CBN stones you can sharp any steel up to 71HRC
Jared, I’m ready to buy from you right now two CBN bonded stones (or Hybrid) for the KME (4 inch only), but I need to know which ones you recommend for REPROFILING as well as the next stone in the progression- for me that’s 300 grit. Cost is not necessarily an issue although I don’t want to pay an ungodly amount. This is all done on the KME. Do you have your 2 recommended stones available for purchase on your site right now? For reference, I currently use the diamond Atoma 140 grit for reprofiling then a 300 grit KME diamond stone but I sharpen so many knives that the Atoma wears out too fast. I’d like to buy them today, so hopefully I hear back from ya soon. Thx!
OK if you already have an atoma 140 then you need to go into my hapstone link in description, click hamburger scroll to 4" stones then hit cbn or diamond and look for the double sided venev near top. You want the set of 3 double sided it will go from like 100- 1200 but the 1200 is really 5k
Hey Jerad. Do the narrow stones work in the standard stone holders or do you have the aftermarket narrow holders? TSProf of course. I run the new Axi-Cube set up like you.
Dude you're just lying to sell stuff. The "scratch pattern" is from the wrong, bigger grit mixed into the smaller grit stones. It's what you get from cheap stones. No, it's NOT sharper with scratches. These are not the same as serrated blades. A serrated blade has varying attack angles, but all of those groves edges are ideally sharp. Your scratches just have notches of edge missing. That's not the same.
The biggest problem i see with people sharpening is pushing the part of the blade needing to be sharpened _into_ the stone's surface instead of _pulling_ the blade across the stone. When you watch professionals sharpen blades they _never_ push the blade into the sharpening surface.
No, sorry man, not true at all. Jerad does it, did it right here in this video in fact several times, and he’s as much a _professional_ as I’ve ever seen; both are valid. When I learned on oil stones (Washita and Arkansas Novaculite stones in the 1960’s, soft, hard and black hard Arkansas stones, from Smiths in cedar boxes which I still have) that’s exactly how you sharpened the edge. You could alternate pushing in, then stropping back dragging the edge if you wanted, but mostly you “cut” into the stone as long as it wasn’t something soft like carborundum, which I never used on anything but an axe. It became so ingrained I stupidly ruined the first small leather strop I made by cutting into it. There’s no reason both directions can’t work, and IMNSHO it gives a better all around edge. A.G. Russell, a knife pioneer who forgot more about knives than any ten “experts” knew taught always angling the edge into the stone to clear away the burr as you went. With the original non continuous surface DMT diamond surfaces that came out in the late ‘70’s or so, that could get you in trouble as the tip of the blade could sometimes catch in the diamond backing surface, so it was best to carefully watch your angle there and trail more, but once they broke in I’d do it both ways. I bought the large (and at the time expensive) double sided DMT bench stones in 2004, and just use water on them to hand sharpen knives going in both directions. BTW, the biggest mistake you can make with those stones is pressing down too hard as if it were a natural oil stone. I ruined a couple just starting out by overdoing it and wiping off the embedded diamonds after only a few sessions, instead of just letting the stone do the work. Finally, if what you’re saying were true, then when Jared goes both ways with the TSPROF on the edge here he’d be screwing it up. Watch the video at 3:24 and then at 5:09; he first goes both ways by hand, just like I learned from my Dad in 1963, (that’s when you could carry a razor sharp knife to school without getting arrested; I started with a Sodbuster in the 2nd grade, then later a Trapper) then goes both ways with the smaller stones on the TSPROF. 👍 P.S. Go to the A.G. Russell website and poke around. He was a great guy who I knew on Bladeforums, who unfortunately “Walked West” a few years ago. They have a wealth of info on their site, including a steel chart that’s as complete as the one on Blade HQ. Look for his old videos in their “Knife Encyclopedia” archives under “Knife Sharpening,” specifically ones called “Sharpening on Stones,” and “Sharpening on Diamonds” to see how he does it. 🙏
@@georgelin8498Read my post; watch the video at the timestamps I indicated, then watch the A.G. Russell videos I mentioned. It’s true that blades cut into material, but that doesn’t mean you’re stuck sharpening that same way. The blades aren’t cutting into the stone, the sharpening stone material is cutting away the blade steel. It does that regardless of whether you are running the blade edge towards the stone, or “stropping” it backwards trailing it. A person good at freehand sharpening can do it both ways.
Yes it can if we are talking about sharpening/grinding steel. Diamond has different crystal lattice. It great for hard alloy but not for steel and cast iron. That is why diamond will work not so fast and badly with super hard steel. But CBN was designed for grinding steel. So CBN will last longer against Diamond 😉
USA MARKET SHARPENING STONES shrsl.com/4il7s
Thanks from a life long sharpening student. Appreciate your letting us in on your quest. Hopefully will cut down on a few expensive mistakes we might have made. Your journey to the "grail" of sharpening stones is very helpful. Am now currently saving up money to get that set of bonded stones you recommended.
You won't be disappointed. They really are that good!
KnifeMaker
man thank you ive learned to sharpen from watching you and i just started doing knife videos a few months ago
That's awesome
I didn't believe stropping itself was that important. Then I actually did it and now my blades are stupid sharp. My sharpening journey has been awesome and informative. Thanks for the advice Jerad
Just the opposite for me. My edges got way better when I quit stropping and leaned to remove the burr on the stone. Not saying
it's better, just a method.
There's definitely a balance, burr removal is extremely important, so is stropping. If your burr comes off perfectly you barely need to strop after if at all, however in many cases it's absolutely required. And it's great for maintenance
@@JohnDoe-zb7dz i would say strop on a fixed angle sharpner like this with a leather strop and some diamond compound a couple of times per side is a game changer and then bare leather. but to each their own, eventually it's the law of diminishing returns.
_Excellent Video! Much appreciated!_
Too sharp
No such thing, brethren.
Glad i didn’t have to be *that* guy.
Thank you. I thought this was gonna be about a map that shows you how to get to sharp.
“Or a granola bar”
Loved it
Appreciate someone talking about burr removal. I remember when people avocated running an edge through wood.
After you get to where you want your edge its ALL about minimization and removal!
The best way to remove a burr is to never create one. -Todd/The Science of Sharp
@@JohnDoe-zb7dz Sadly, in some somewhat gummy steels it is almost impossible. I do agree in general with you however. For a pro sharpener it is often a one time thing one customers knife. Or my own personal knives which get sharpened a lot, a burr is tantamount to throwing away steel. But it does require a higher abrasion resistant steel with preferably a hard higher RHc.
KnifeMaker
The clickbait should read “Too sharp” not “to sharp”
But then would you have clicked?
Maybe his buddy said it's not sharp and he was just replying "It is TO sharp!"
Idk man. To sharp or not to sharp? That's the question
@@MegaBuster777 clever save there
I once was told that i to, was not two sharp¡
Thanks for dropping all that knowledge, I'm looking for a great stone set and listening to your quest will make sure I take the best decision, these stone look great. cheers
So great to see more sharpening stuff from you, I miss it. Gonna have to start saving up for a set of those stones!
Best reviewer in the knife game
I’ve heard about the super vitrified diamond stones from Triple B but they are $400 a piece and usually sold out. There’s one other place that I heard about that are about the same. I’m not sure if Shaun makes them, has them made, or just knows the manufacturer. Anyway, I watched him use them and it was pretty impressive. Maybe it was just because he was doing it and is so much higher skilled than I am. I can’t come close to you or Big Brown Bear and even though I started with a Buck 110 and a cheap oil stone back in the seventies but just did it off and on through the years. I didn’t start to get real results until I found you about four or five years ago… I don’t remember exactly, but after I put away my King stone and got some DMT and Atoma plates I found out what I was capable of doing. It made all the difference in the world. I got a Venev but I think I need to flatten it. It’s also a lot slower than the plates but I think I’m starting to figure it out.
Anyway, great video Jared! Looking forward to seeing more!
Well soon we will have some of our own which will come in different sizes
@@NeevesKnives I’m looking forward to it!! I forgot to mention I started hearing about the CBN stones a while back, probably from you, but I didn’t really see anything that I wanted that I could afford. It’s like that with so many things. Right now I’m trying to save up for a new hip. I have insurance but it’s a Medicare Advantage through Humana and it leaves a lot to be desired. I have had a lot of back surgeries and a few on my neck and all my extra money has been going towards my medical expenses, but things will get better so I’m not complaining.
This is awesome. Very helpful and hard to find information. Thanks!
You need to start a knife sharpening company. You seem incredibly knowledgeable on this!
The cover picture for this video: to sharp or not to sharp, that is the question. Whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous sharpness
It hurts my soul when my room mate presses down unnecessary amounts of their weight on the knife when they borrow my diamond stones, without asking me
Genuinely happy to see you going places m8, keep up the good work.
Thanks a ton!
This content is sooo relaxing ☺
Man you make me want to get some really good steel and stones to do this. I get frustrated with my budget knives and field sharpener lol. I've been trying different techniques to get more performance but just can't get the results I want. Some day I'll be able to afford the good stuff...
Thanks very much Jerad, I was just looking at TSPROF’s new bonded stones for my K03, as an upgrade to the so-so ones it came with, but these look even better. And thanks for mentioning the soapy water; some other bench stones you recommended a couple years ago on Amazon say to use some stuff called Krud Cutter, and I was thinking to use that here as well.
I’ll give the site time to update; the closest I can find to your 7 piece set here has 6 stones, and the grits mentioned are confusing. It first says grits are from #80 - #10.000, then gives other designations for grit that don’t make as much sense: Grit sizes: F160, F285, F325, F650, F1500, F3000. (?)
Thanks again! 👍
You can choose any set you want. At the web-site you can find sets which company offers. But you can choose Hybrids stone CBN and choose any stone you want and get your personal set. You can choose the same stones like Jerad have in the video
@@VooDooPoltavaYes, I know, I’ve seen all the sets as I said, but they don’t have this one of 7 stones. They have one set of 4 and another of 6 and something else I don’t recall that costs more. I could buy the stones individually and not get the box and pay $80 per stone, but I’d rather pay less and get the set. I’m also not going to buy without understanding why they have two different grit designations in the description like I put in my post, and what they mean.
I’ll wait till they have the set, then only buy the 10,000 grit individually for full price.
@@E.L.RipleyAtNostromo Give them a call. Poltava will explain the grit ratings to you. there is a chart at Grit-O-Matic that list the girts used around the world and their equivalents to one another.
KnifeMaker
Ripping through paper towels like that is seriously sharp
Awesome review! Just a remark: KDTU stones are the best not on the planet but the best in Universe)
since you mentioned splitting hairs... it's TOO sharp. Thank you 😁
17:10 the example of sharpness vs cutting performance. 🤔 Ooooh, balancing that fine edge?! 🤓 🤣
Great information as usual. I appreciate the level of dedication to your craft. I am the same way with my knives. Would you know if the kit of pro diamond sharpeners fit the Work Sharp Precision Sharpener? I'd be grateful for any info. Thanks.
The only way is if you get an aftermarket stone holder which you can find in my hapstone link then you can get different stones
All I can say is thank you very kindly Jerad for the information you provided and there’s nothing like listening to the opinion of someone that has more knowledge than ourselves that’s how we learn, apart from the TH-camrs that just spit out 💩they get paid to say. If you ever fall into that category I’m sending you my socks and that would be worse than death by ants eating you from the inside of your balloon knot and working their way slowly out!! 😂
As always excellent video stay safe and healthy both J&K have a beautiful week 🫵🏻😘👍🏼
Seeing your Venevs at 3 to 4 years old means I'll never need to replace mine 😁
I just recently (on your advice) bought 3 new rather expensive diamond sharpening plates and now you tell us they not are as good as these hybrid ones!
I’m sure the diamond plates you got are great.
And innovations continue to come to light! ;
With good diamond stones and a strop you can get just about any knife razor sharp, diamond stones are great
@@user-jy3jm9jh3t Yes, Yes They Are!!! ;
I think he made a video on this subject before, just not with this specific brand of stones.
Your videos have taken my sharpening to the next level I am going to pickup this stones 2 questions when looking at the stones they say 160/25 what do those numbers mean and can I use a flating stone when I first get them I don't have a plate and dust thanks paul
This is a long one, sorry. I've wondered that for a long time and I've never seen a definitive answer. I've read a forum post from the guy who makes the Columbia Gorge Stoneworks resin stones that the bulk diamonds he buys are marked with a range of sizes for the diamonds. I would bet money at this point that 160/125 means 125 microns to 160 microns. 0/1 seems kind of confusing but it would just mean that the max size is 1 micron and the minimum is < 1 (think 0.8 or 0.9). Sometimes the numbers are in a different order (e.g. 125/160). I don't think it matters if they are just specifying max/min. Hope this helps, and if I'm wrong I hope someone corrects me so I can actually know what it really means.
This vid is great 👍 Love learning this stuff.
Hey Jerad, thanks a lot for your vids, I have 2 lil questions that I keep asking myself, maybe you can please enlighten me ? :
- how do you maintain the flatness of these CBN hybrid stones ?
- what is that water you use for sharpening ? Water + Soap ?
Thanks a lot for your answer :) keep up the good job !! Big up from France !
You can use Silicon Carbide and glass plate for lapping. But Hybrids come flat from factory, so flatting you need to do once a year i guess
Another very good video!
Don’t even bother going past 600 grit and lapping on a strop these days 😅it can cut still and lasts much longer
I tend to agree. Especially on softer metals that refuse higher grits.
Yes if the steel is softer you wanna stick to medium grits or specific steels
600 grit is as high as I go. Then strop just a couple times with something higher. Gotta have that bite
@@jusme8060 agree one hundred percent!
I would think that multiple types of sharpening materials, that perform differently, would not create a contiguous sharpening experience.
I'd love to check these out. Iv been sharpening freehand on stone for almost 35 years. Off & on. These look niiice
Well soon we should have all versions in freehand stones, atm only the metal cbn 3x8s unless you like using smaller stones like some do and I also do sometimes
I'm using stones from the quarry up the road and Auto sandpaper. It works and I can afford it. I really do need some quality stones for these quality knives though..
@FrankToThePoint yeah I would recommend just getting a good set of diamond plates, in fact work sharp has the benchstone that has the angle guides built in 2 diamond plates and ceramic for 50$
On the guided sharpening system why do you clamp the blade way far to the rear by the handle I always thought that the blade had to be clamped in the middle can you please explain why you do this maybe I've been doing the wrong the whole time thank you
Incredible i want tey these stones!!!
lol now where gonna see multiple bandaids for each finger with that sharpness
Yup I'm down one atm
Thanks!
Thanks John
Hey man great video! Could you please tell me which knive you are showing at 18:08? I am in love at first sight with this beauty 😍
That's one of my knife designs coming in the beginning of October. The neeveknifeco Misdemeanor
Where do I get the correct nagura stone I have the resin bonded USA market and will be getting those hybrids there’s so many different versions of the nagura I don’t know what’s the right one to get
It's actually amazing sharpening stone. Hope the price drop little bit. For 56 buck damn. I can afford it if I bought 1 stone for that month. And buy other 1 next month until I have complete set. 😂😂
Tried a few kinds of bonded stones and edge pro diamond matrix are my favorite. They don't cut as fast, but the finish and edge they give is superior imo. Another 3 stones i enjoy are 800 boron carbide "ceramic" (found on Amazon, really love the edge it gives), 3K Ruby ceramic and 8k Suehiro G8 SiC (finest SiC stone available) for anything in s30v/m390 class (4% Vanadium and lower) but not the best for 10v/s90v class steels or high hardness tool steels.
It’s a promotion. It’s a school. It’s a Schomotion..Proool. I like mirror polish scratch pattern. Mirror Saw. Itty bitty teensee weensee serrated shine. Happy accident…and I liked it. I watch for the teach as well. Th ank
hope to see soon those vitrified ones
this is one of those items before i buy, i would like to send you one of my knives to see how sharp you can get it and pay shipping to and from and for your time to be sold. do you offer anything like that?
Keep on keeping on bro 🫡
The best in the game ⚒️
Where can I buy your K390 knife?
Where did you buy the round stone honing table? And what kind of sharpening holder is that?
When do you want to use different grits of Silicone carbide stones? Is there a general rule to follow?
Not really I typically just use one, if it's a super fine stone you might want to use a coarse then a fine. I usually just take my conditioning stone to after if it's needed which it's usually not
What is your water to soap ratio? Every time i try to make your lapping fluid "recipe", it seems to he waaaaaay to soapy.
I just mix it how I said, until bubbles expand from shake, I put a large squirter that's it
Hey Jarred, love your channel! I want to put a beautiful mirror edge on some of my non user knives, so I don't care about cutting performance. Do you recommend I get real diamond stones then? Also, would I strop after stone sharpening? Also, I'm talking about putting a mirror edge on high end knives that have their factory edge. TIA!
So of you want a good mirror edge then you have to progress from coarse to medium , fine then up to ultra fine then polish. You can use diamond plates up to a certain grit then ceramic, or get one resin bonded diamond stone. I personally would use all bonded stones but it's not required if you can get up to about 1500 grit with diamond plates then use a bonded diamond, you need to get over 2k to use the ceramic. Yes you always want to strop after sharpening
IIRC the industry standard for 100% concentration stones is 4 or 4.4 carats per CC of bond agent. 3mm thick stones are around 11CC of volume so 44+ carats per stone.
Have you gotten back to your Hapstone Premium CBN? They are hybrid bond as well. Once I lapped past the silver mold release layer mine have been performing amazingly, they cut much faster after. I got a Hapstone Premium diamond recently due to a shipping mistake and they came seemingly ready to go, no lapping required or silver layer on them. You can easily feel the diamond where the CBN versions were almost glass smooth. Not sure if they changed things up or if the manufacturing process on them is different. I talked with Hapstone a while back and sent them the same album I sent you of the before/after lapping and my results and they said they would send my results to their engineering team so things might be improved in the future.
I am looking forward to seeing how all your testing on the new stones goes.
Too, to and two. Three words that are not interchangeable. Most of us learned this in the first grade.... Some did not.
Do you make any kits for the precision adjust pro?
Is there a kit or something? Looked on the site and it looks like its just these individually for 80 a piece with like 15 to choose from. Im still a novice and just bought some cheap diamond stones from amazon. Seem to work pretty well though. I can get it to where it cuts paper pretty easily but never reached shaving sharp. Cant seem to get there anyway, just looking for good stones and a sharpening that work with each other and i dont need a loan for.
I should have just gotten these instead of my Edge Pro Apex… $400…
You can sell your stones and choose Hybrids. They are so awesome!
So these are good for just about all steels ?
I do respekt your choice in Stones if you kan call them that ,my choice is and always will be natrual sharpeningstones ,I have handsharpend knives most off my life and I enjoy the fell and sound off the metal against the Stone also some natrual Stones are very pleasing to the eye somethimes i might not be as effektive as your fanzy system but my knives wiil cut i mostly sharpen japanese kitchenknifes and bushcraftknifes
Im fairly new to sharpening. I bought a tsprof ko3 since two of my family members are chefs and they have a lot of knives i get to sharpen. I purchased a tsprof ko3 to assist me in this endevor. As such i have a few questions. I sharpen many different types of steel. If one was limited in the amount of stones one could afford what general grits would recommendation? Do you have a step by step video shapening on a tsprof ko2/3?
I have a few tsprof videos, I have one on the k03 but it's not a step by step, however I have tons of videos talking about the stones you want depending on your budget. All you really need is a coarse between 100 and 140, a 400 -600 stone for medium, then a 1000-1200 grit and a ceramic would be nice for burr removal or you could but one bonded diamond stone. I would recommend getting either the Atoma 1x6 sharpening stones, or the Hapstone Starts in those grit ratios. As far as a bonded stone for a finishing/burr removal stone you can get one of these stones from usa market either the 3k or 5k stone or get venev bonded stones in the f800 or f1200, there's grit ratio is different those would be 3k and 5k I have everything linked down in description between the NeevesKnives store and sharpening supplies link, hapstone link, and USA market link, the hapstone link also has bonded stones, just make sure they are 1x6 inch stones
5:47 - Oof this is a whole can of worms to open up isnt it? :D Anyway I assume this is the scienceofsharp article on carbides in K390 right? I do think this could be a bit misleading, because the pictures shown of having exposed carbides are not necessarily stated to be a bad thing and are from the factory edge and a natural arkansas stone only. So one of them is what Spyderco wants you to have from factory, the other is from a stone that (at least I find) struggles with alot of steels already. And yeah ig im super biased from having bad experience with those stones and their Finnish counterparts haha.
Todd does go into more spesifics on how different steels wear down differently in his carbides in maxamet article, where exposed carbides is desirable for a "toothy" edge on steels that tend to glass out, but what I find very interesting there is in the comments where he says taking out more matrix material on purpose is just one of several ways to create an edge with the properties you actually want along with geometry, grit, finish etc. For me that seems to fit well with maxamet and cruwear which tends to glass out alot for me at least. He also answers a question there where he states that the main culprit of carbide crushing is poor sharpening technique and not necessarily the abrasive medium, but he does mention ceramics as particularly easy to mess up on. Which again is a bit funny to me since ceramic is my preferred stone for cruwear in particular
I cant remember what article it is, I tried looking, but there is one where he tests out different stones and its effects on harder steels, and pretty much concludes that theres no evidence you cant sharpen steels with high vanadium carbide concentration on regular water stones and such, that it just requires a little less pressure and more time (which obviously means more chances to mess up). This does make sense to me at least, not only because my own experience tells me one of the best edges ive gotten on K390 was from a regular naniwa waterstone, but also from a logic standpoint. The vanadium carbides in a supersteel is the same 9.5 mohs hardness as the vanadium carbides in steels like D2, so that should mean a D2 knife is just as impossible to sharpen on aluminium oxide too, but it obviously isnt.
I dont understand all of this tbh as it gets very complicated very fast, and I dont mean this as a sh!t tossing thing either, but from a one sharpening nerd to another I just find the topic very interesting, and the more I learn about it the more I realize there is no right or wrong as long as one understand what one is doing and why... And of course actually do it on purpose 😂 This was just meant as offering a different take/understanding of it
That being said, I do think you are one of the best at this in the knife community on this platform and I would absolutely check out your stones if you have some sort of colab going
Here is what you are missing. Yes, the carbides can ge on the edge with any stone. But are more rounded and not sharp unless using diamond or cbn. think of it this way. Ever seen concrete with the river pebbles in it. They are harder than the concrete but are rounded when exposed. Same with steel with high carbide content. These pebbles are yes there, and abrasion resistant. They will cut longer. But if not themselves sharpened to an apex rather than rounded and smooth, they will never cut near as keenly as carbides that have be brought to a fine edge themselves. the only thing a King or ceramic stone can do is lightly polish the rounded carbides. that's is all they can do.
Which of course will quickly feel what you perceive as glassy.
KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ Years in the Craft
@@michaell397 I feel like this leaves me with more questions than it answers, mind if I ask?
@@kvernesdotten Not at all. I will try and help if possible.
KnifeMaker
can i get some for my prof precision adjust ? You could make millions. I need my cut though.
Yup as long as you get the stone holder from my hapstone link
Wait…..first what knife is that? Looks like a robins egg blue folder?????
You should do a poor man’s hack video using silica carbide sand paper glued to a flat surface to compare results, cost effectiveness and ease of use.
Not a bad idea
Those are nice. Are they compatible with the Hapstone?
Yes sure they are! You can use those stones with your Hapstone sharpener
Is the blade grind off on your manix 2 in the thumb nail? Just curious why it's so narrow by the plunge and then widens? Thanks!
We all want to believe Ben 🙏
Cool but.... $1200 for the set? Most ppl who buy this will simply be LARPing as a ninja
Not necessary to pay 1200$. You can choose 4-8 stones. So 320-640$ will be quit enough
@@VooDooPoltava Still, I don't see a point in dropping that much money unless there is a return on that investment, as in, you're a professional knife sharpener. A $30 ceramic rod and a piece of leather glued to a 1x4 and I can shave with just about any knife I own withing a few minutes, except a Spyderco Dragonfly that has ZDP-189, that shit's hard
@@BioHorrorKnives can even sharped with a brick to honest )) But there are a lot of people who have knives with modern super hard steel and to make it very sharp for a long time you need high quality tools. And these stones will last for ever. You buy them once for 10-20 years.
With CBN stones you can sharp any steel up to 71HRC
Jared,
I’m ready to buy from you right now two CBN bonded stones (or Hybrid) for the KME (4 inch only), but I need to know which ones you recommend for REPROFILING as well as the next stone in the progression- for me that’s 300 grit. Cost is not necessarily an issue although I don’t want to pay an ungodly amount. This is all done on the KME.
Do you have your 2 recommended stones available for purchase on your site right now?
For reference, I currently use the diamond Atoma 140 grit for reprofiling then a 300 grit KME diamond stone but I sharpen so many knives that the Atoma wears out too fast.
I’d like to buy them today, so hopefully I hear back from ya soon. Thx!
OK if you already have an atoma 140 then you need to go into my hapstone link in description, click hamburger scroll to 4" stones then hit cbn or diamond and look for the double sided venev near top. You want the set of 3 double sided it will go from like 100- 1200 but the 1200 is really 5k
Hey I wonder if the horl 2 premium set which are whetstones work for high carbon steels with up to 64 or even 67 hrc because I think they are ceremic.
Hey Jerad. Do the narrow stones work in the standard stone holders or do you have the aftermarket narrow holders?
TSProf of course. I run the new Axi-Cube set up like you.
They work in standard holders just like other stones that are 6"
Okay thanks Jerad. Nice to know because they do offer them on their website though I now wonder why if you don't need them.
So what does CBN stand for?
1:11 I wish he would’ve said “we’re splitting hairs to split hairs”
You know, cause hair whittling edges…
Idk I thought it was funny
How are the stones in the TS PROF set?
Only good for half a dozen sharpening imo
They are horrible unless you get there bonded stones, the plates I showed wore our were tsprof
It's made for TS Prof 🙂
Just ordered mine Last Sunday. Im so exited for they to arrive
an S through paper towel? wtf.
Also do you have any thoughts on natural stones like arkansas stones?
"Noooo I'm a happy as can be" 🙁
SOUNDING AS DEPRESSED AS EEYORE FROM WHINEY THE POO
Are these good for for all the CPM steels , or are the Ceramic stones ?
They are good for All steels, I personally prefer them over ceramic however I do think it's good to have a ceramic rod atleast
@@NeevesKnives thank you for the response. Always enjoy your videos,again thank you.
Hey man you probably get a lot of questions about this but what was the knife you were using at 1:06
When TH-camrs don't read their comments 🙄
WHAT KNIFE IS THIS!?
*too
Maybe he's using sharp as a verb instead of sharpen)))
Bess scale please, gives objective measure.
to sharp, or too sharp?
a lowercase comment
£140 UK 😬 For 1
wrong "to"...(too)
Fix the thumbnail please 😂 *too sharp
Too.
You should learn when to use the word to, too and two.
Yeah I didn't get very far in school, I went to handlen school
Yeah idc how sharp it is, it ain't worth 800 bucks
What's 800$ ??
Dude you're just lying to sell stuff. The "scratch pattern" is from the wrong, bigger grit mixed into the smaller grit stones. It's what you get from cheap stones. No, it's NOT sharper with scratches. These are not the same as serrated blades. A serrated blade has varying attack angles, but all of those groves edges are ideally sharp. Your scratches just have notches of edge missing. That's not the same.
Too. In the title / caption. It's too .... Not to. 😩🇦🇺
To sharp, too sharp, or two sharp? English is confusing.
It’s a gift for sharp.
Your the Terrence Howard of sharpness
@@Mridgwell Your or you’re? See? It’s confusing.
Too sharp not to sharp
The biggest problem i see with people sharpening is pushing the part of the blade needing to be sharpened _into_ the stone's surface instead of _pulling_ the blade across the stone. When you watch professionals sharpen blades they _never_ push the blade into the sharpening surface.
No, sorry man, not true at all. Jerad does it, did it right here in this video in fact several times, and he’s as much a _professional_ as I’ve ever seen; both are valid. When I learned on oil stones (Washita and Arkansas Novaculite stones in the 1960’s, soft, hard and black hard Arkansas stones, from Smiths in cedar boxes which I still have) that’s exactly how you sharpened the edge. You could alternate pushing in, then stropping back dragging the edge if you wanted, but mostly you “cut” into the stone as long as it wasn’t something soft like carborundum, which I never used on anything but an axe.
It became so ingrained I stupidly ruined the first small leather strop I made by cutting into it. There’s no reason both directions can’t work, and IMNSHO it gives a better all around edge. A.G. Russell, a knife pioneer who forgot more about knives than any ten “experts” knew taught always angling the edge into the stone to clear away the burr as you went.
With the original non continuous surface DMT diamond surfaces that came out in the late ‘70’s or so, that could get you in trouble as the tip of the blade could sometimes catch in the diamond backing surface, so it was best to carefully watch your angle there and trail more, but once they broke in I’d do it both ways. I bought the large (and at the time expensive) double sided DMT bench stones in 2004, and just use water on them to hand sharpen knives going in both directions. BTW, the biggest mistake you can make with those stones is pressing down too hard as if it were a natural oil stone. I ruined a couple just starting out by overdoing it and wiping off the embedded diamonds after only a few sessions, instead of just letting the stone do the work.
Finally, if what you’re saying were true, then when Jared goes both ways with the TSPROF on the edge here he’d be screwing it up. Watch the video at 3:24 and then at 5:09; he first goes both ways by hand, just like I learned from my Dad in 1963, (that’s when you could carry a razor sharp knife to school without getting arrested; I started with a Sodbuster in the 2nd grade, then later a Trapper) then goes both ways with the smaller stones on the TSPROF. 👍
P.S. Go to the A.G. Russell website and poke around. He was a great guy who I knew on Bladeforums, who unfortunately “Walked West” a few years ago. They have a wealth of info on their site, including a steel chart that’s as complete as the one on Blade HQ. Look for his old videos in their “Knife Encyclopedia” archives under “Knife Sharpening,” specifically ones called “Sharpening on Stones,” and “Sharpening on Diamonds” to see how he does it. 🙏
Blades cut into material, makes sense to sharpen in the same direction.
@@georgelin8498Read my post; watch the video at the timestamps I indicated, then watch the A.G. Russell videos I mentioned.
It’s true that blades cut into material, but that doesn’t mean you’re stuck sharpening that same way. The blades aren’t cutting into the stone, the sharpening stone material is cutting away the blade steel. It does that regardless of whether you are running the blade edge towards the stone, or “stropping” it backwards trailing it. A person good at freehand sharpening can do it both ways.
I push the blade all the time and regularly get knives to hair whittling sharp. All you need is to maintain the angle
Tormek does that
I would love to try these resin bonded stones
CBN can’t last longer than diamond, because diamond is harder!
Yes it can if we are talking about sharpening/grinding steel. Diamond has different crystal lattice. It great for hard alloy but not for steel and cast iron. That is why diamond will work not so fast and badly with super hard steel. But CBN was designed for grinding steel. So CBN will last longer against Diamond 😉