Thanks for posting the video, but I think the manual says to do the front derailleur first. I had the exact same issue as a comment below; full charge and was getting a beeping noise and was also getting a yellow light indicating a front derailleur fault. I followed the procedure several times and even called Campy and changed out my front derailleur with the same result. I went back to the manual and mine says to always do the front FIRST. The video shows the rear first. I did the procedure again in the proper order and the beeping is totally gone. The order might not matter for some, but if you are getting a beeping or a fault light you might want to try doing the procedure in the video in reverse, or double checking your manual.
Thx. I bought an EPS SR V3 equipped bike yesterday and was dropping a chain randomly when shifting to the big ring after the 1st 30 minutes of riding. Getting the FD vertical gap reduced from 3-4mm to 1.5mm and then zero setting the FD worked its magic (needed to be bang on 0.5mm inner gap to totally kill off the dropped chain issue). Don't have to go the bike store in the AM now and can fine tune myself in the future ...
Please note, the first rear mech calibration should be performed whilst having the large chainring engaged, then drop to the small ring for front mech adjustment
Use the Excelsports video to zero set the Campagnolo EPS derailleurs. I watched this video and another from Campagnolo. Both videos and read the manuals for how to make the adjustments to my electronic Athena 11 derailleurs. The Manuals are useless they did not say you have to press both mode buttons at the same time. Which is clearly pointed out in each of these videos. The difference between the two is really that the Excel Sports starts with the chain in the smallest sprocket both front and rear.
I struggled to get the interface into solid blue. I must not have been pressing each of the mode buttons for long enough because I was clearly getting a purple color. Purple did does not work so keep trying until you get Blue indicator. You should get the Blue and White lights if you are not, you are not doing it right. Once I got that I moved the rear derailleur into the next largest sprocket (2nd highest) and made the fine adjustments until I heard very little to no rubbing. I pressed the right mode button and got the solid white indication. Then followed the instructions to go to the 2nd lowest rear sprocket and made fine adjustments until I heard very little to no rubbing. Again I pressed the right mode button and got the I pressed the right mode button and got the flashing blue. Did the same for the front derailleur and again started in the lower (smaller) sprocket. I moved the cage and was close on the .5MM spacing. Got the flashing blue. My advice is to follow this procedure the other procedure I found from Campagnolo is similar but this technique worked for me after a lot of trouble. If you get the purple or violet indicator you are probably not engaging both mode buttons properly for the right amount of time. Also if you have problems on the rear derailleur to move from 10th to 11th sprocket (Largest ones) then go back and start from the beginning. I had to do the reset process (pressing both mode buttons to get the blue light) a few times.
I had the exact same issue, and was also getting a yellow light indicating a front derailleur fault. I followed the procedure several times and even changed out my front derailleur with the same result. I went back to the manual and mine says to always do the front FIRST. The video shows the rear first. I did the procedure again in the proper order and the beeping is totally gone. Good luck.
Hi Szady, Thanks for your videos (even form here in Australia) - I think that the rear derailleur zero setting needs the chain in the big front chainring as per Campagnolo EPS manual?? if you could confirm. Cheers, Ken.
question above the Front Derailleur, when I'm on the smallest cog in the back and biggest ring in the front, the fd outer cage is touching the back side of the drive side crank arm. tried repositioning the mounting of the fd and still giving me the same result maybe .5mm is the biggest gap I could get. any suggestion ?
Got the rear fine. Front is tricky. After zeroing, either I can't get it to change up to the large chainring or if it does change up (by making the gap
Hi Szady. Great instructional video. Hope you can help me. I have just setup my new Campag Chorus v2 eps. Every few seconds there is a 'chirp' almost like one of the mechs is making a tiny adjustment. Can you tell me what this is doing or how I fix / stop it? Thanks Andrew
Why not have wireless electrodes on my head, so when I think about changing gears it does it. EPS and Di is a lot of hype about nothing. But this maybe on the way to a system of monitoring heart rate for maximum cadence based on rpms where the gears change automatically. Which I heard was in development, that would be great.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Brilliant, ive done this so many times, BUT, in the heat of the moment (On road) forget sequence (old age) BUT, why the BLOODY distracting noise in background, Think its called music, if it was removed, this would be THE BEST INSTRUCTIONAL VID
10 years and I am still using this video❤
Same as a V3 owner. I'm still stuck in the past.
Thank you! My shifting is now as flawless as god and Tullio intended.
Glad to help, feel free to give a call if you ever have additional questions
Extremely useful video. I adjusted my rear derailleur after watching this and now it's perfect. Many thanks.
Thanks for posting the video, but I think the manual says to do the front derailleur first. I had the exact same issue as a comment below; full charge and was getting a beeping noise and was also getting a yellow light indicating a front derailleur fault. I followed the procedure several times and even called Campy and changed out my front derailleur with the same result. I went back to the manual and mine says to always do the front FIRST. The video shows the rear first. I did the procedure again in the proper order and the beeping is totally gone. The order might not matter for some, but if you are getting a beeping or a fault light you might want to try doing the procedure in the video in reverse, or double checking your manual.
Thx. I bought an EPS SR V3 equipped bike yesterday and was dropping a chain randomly when shifting to the big ring after the 1st 30 minutes of riding. Getting the FD vertical gap reduced from 3-4mm to 1.5mm and then zero setting the FD worked its magic (needed to be bang on 0.5mm inner gap to totally kill off the dropped chain issue). Don't have to go the bike store in the AM now and can fine tune myself in the future ...
Glad the video helped! Feel free to give a call if you ever have questions.
Please note, the first rear mech calibration should be performed whilst having the large chainring engaged, then drop to the small ring for front mech adjustment
Is there a way how i can open more the rim break in order to build out the wheel?
First you have to get the right version I have V2. And then if you can't shift at all what do you do?
Muchas Gracias! Se me acaba de desconfigurar todo post upgrade de Firmware. Muy útil!!!
Use the Excelsports video to zero set the Campagnolo EPS derailleurs. I watched this video and another from Campagnolo. Both videos and read the manuals for how to make the adjustments to my electronic Athena 11 derailleurs. The Manuals are useless they did not say you have to press both mode buttons at the same time. Which is clearly pointed out in each of these videos. The difference between the two is really that the Excel Sports starts with the chain in the smallest sprocket both front and rear.
I struggled to get the interface into solid blue. I must not have been pressing each of the mode buttons for long enough because I was clearly getting a purple color. Purple did does not work so keep trying until you get Blue indicator.
You should get the Blue and White lights if you are not, you are not doing it right.
Once I got that I moved the rear derailleur into the next largest sprocket (2nd highest) and made the fine adjustments until I heard very little to no rubbing. I pressed the right mode button and got the solid white indication.
Then followed the instructions to go to the 2nd lowest rear sprocket and made fine adjustments until I heard very little to no rubbing. Again I pressed the right mode button and got the
I pressed the right mode button and got the flashing blue.
Did the same for the front derailleur and again started in the lower (smaller) sprocket. I moved the cage and was close on the .5MM spacing. Got the flashing blue.
My advice is to follow this procedure the other procedure I found from Campagnolo is similar but this technique worked for me after a lot of trouble.
If you get the purple or violet indicator you are probably not engaging both mode buttons properly for the right amount of time. Also if you have problems on the rear derailleur to move from 10th to 11th sprocket (Largest ones) then go back and start from the beginning. I had to do the reset process (pressing both mode buttons to get the blue light) a few times.
So, I'm riding with a full charged batterie and my system beeps three time ( 3 or 4 times during a 3 hour span) . Do you know why? Thanks!
I had the exact same issue, and was also getting a yellow light indicating a front derailleur fault. I followed the procedure several times and even changed out my front derailleur with the same result. I went back to the manual and mine says to always do the front FIRST. The video shows the rear first. I did the procedure again in the proper order and the beeping is totally gone. Good luck.
@@quinnmccolly7852 Thanks! Turns out I left with my mechanic - who spoke Italian to it. That did the job!
How do you attatch the cable?
Hi Szady,
Thanks for your videos (even form here in Australia) - I think that the rear derailleur zero setting needs the chain in the big front chainring as per Campagnolo EPS manual?? if you could confirm.
Cheers,
Ken.
question above the Front Derailleur, when I'm on the smallest cog in the back and biggest ring in the front, the fd outer cage is touching the back side of the drive side crank arm. tried repositioning the mounting of the fd and still giving me the same result maybe .5mm is the biggest gap I could get. any suggestion ?
Got the rear fine. Front is tricky. After zeroing, either I can't get it to change up to the large chainring or if it does change up (by making the gap
Hey Simon I know it's years later but I currently have the same issue. Did you ever solve it? Thanks
Hi Szady. Great instructional video. Hope you can help me. I have just setup my new Campag Chorus v2 eps. Every few seconds there is a 'chirp' almost like one of the mechs is making a tiny adjustment. Can you tell me what this is doing or how I fix / stop it? Thanks Andrew
Andrew Duncan Hey Andrew, give a call, it is easier to walk you through it over the phone
All sorted. Thanks Gus.
El cambio electrónico. Tiene arreglo?
???
Martin Fabian Bosch. I'm not getting the white led after 2nd highest cog alignment. Just goes from solid blue to flashing blue
Why not have wireless electrodes on my head, so when I think about changing gears it does it. EPS and Di is a lot of hype about nothing. But this maybe on the way to a system of monitoring heart rate for maximum cadence based on rpms where the gears change automatically. Which I heard was in development, that would be great.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
👍👍👍
Brilliant, ive done this so many times, BUT, in the heat of the moment (On road) forget sequence (old age) BUT, why the BLOODY distracting noise in background, Think its called music, if it was removed, this would be THE BEST INSTRUCTIONAL VID
prodotto ITALIANO - SPIEGATO IN CINESE TURCO AMERICANO MANDARINO- E ITALIANO?
This would be so much easier to understand if the mechanic knew an upshift from a downshift. His terminology is wacky at times.