My first green machine is a recently acquired PowerPlasma 80S. I have an AHP 200X for welding right now. Zilla's feedback regarding HTP and other machines has helped me figure out what I want for my next machine.
Cant wait to see your comparison on the different modes of the i275P. I’ve got one and I know I’m not using it to its fullest potential. Thank you, I really like your down to earth no BS videos.
oh yes - this will be another "one hours long" video - down to the the bones - no music no bs no entertaining ... and i know it will be hard to follow for an extended amount of time .... but from what you will take home from it - it will be informative - you probably end up watching it more than once - just my guess
@@ZILAweldsI can’t believe this video is 5 years old. BTW, I hate music in tech videos. Don’t need to be entertained or indoctrinated into some freakin sub culture, it’s all about work and production. That’s why I can easily take in a quick video of Jody’s “a welding tips and tricks”. There is a straightforward channel as is yours. Another good channel is “Cutting Edge Engineering” Australia. No BS, just doing it!
@@Mikael5732 thanks ! The only time i do music is when i have too many people talking in the background or it is a time lapse of some build series …. When Jody still had a welding shop full time about 8+ years ago he got into some awesome projects! When i do some technical explanations i agree, music often times gets in the way. Thanks for watching !
The affordability and quality of Everlast's products enabled me to be able to get into fabrication. They seem to be bringing out better products each year.
same with Jimbo from Jimbos Garage, 4 years ago he bought 3 Everlast machines and he started welding, fabricating and a youtube channel with those! And now he upgraded a little bit. There is nothing wrong with NOT buying top of the line to get your feet wet and get into the workflow and cash flow... And at the end of the day, you will see if you compare ANY machines side by side no matter what ma manufactures they are you will see what the upsides and downsides of those machines are and what works best for you. One thing to remember is: Arc quality and Arc dynamic cannot be measured in a spec sheet - YOU have to experience it for yourself first hand!
I bought a POWER i-MIG200E in September of 2018. I have had a lot of problems with it. I do not consider it a reliable product. List of all known problems: -9/2018 - Gas hose leak - repaired this by tightening the crimped hose clamps on the hose. -?/2019 - Trigger contacts dirty - I had to disassemble the gun and clean the contacts to get it to work. -3/2019 - Gas Solenoid sticking - Lost a whole 80 cu ft tank of shielding gas during a lunch break. -8/2019 - Wire feeder does not work - When I pull the trigger, I hear a faint click, but the wire feeder roller does not turn. Other issues that I don't care for: -Ground cable seems very short. -I prefer a shielding nozzle that screws on instead of the push on type like this welder has. -No chart for weld settings based on metal thickness like most other MIG welders have. Returned it for warranty repair. One way shipping was over $80. I assume it will be the same for return shipping also. Paid $600 for welder and now another $160 in shipping. Still less than a Hobart or Lincoln. At least it broke during the warranty period. But it'll probably be gone a month or more.
ZILA, I was surprised you responded to some previous comments, thank you. I would love to get my hands on an EVERLAST but that's not going to happen. One suggestion, I had mentioned that I was a Welding Instructor for many years and one machine I used was a Miller 351 AC/DC with the optional Pulse Panel. Preprogramed settings are good but I would rather set mine manually as I could with the 351Miller. Some of the students I had could barely keep an arc going with TIG and as long as I was there to set the machine so I had my students get a pocket note book. I used a white board and drew out every setting on the machine the a separate set of notes of pulse settings, the best generic starting point that would work with everyone then moved onto one on one with each individual helping them find the best settings for the materials or situation. These students were employees at a Mill where they were operators of the equipment. Each one had to learn basic welding and pipe fitting more or less with screw pipe which is another science that most don't know how to do properly. Having a note book with machine settings and part numbers for TIG parts, etc., made a huge difference. In my younger days with the MK Products push pull gun we were using 90% Helium 10% Argon. Most aluminum plate thickness ran from 3/8" to 2". I certified new employees under Coast Guard Regulations. The Coast Guard had their own inspectors on site periodically and during all testing. In one of your other videos you mentioned training people to weld by introducing a School or a number of booths to accommodate the number of students. That's great and I sincerely hope it all works out for you. I used Oxy/Acetylene torch welding to show the puddle but also to teach the safety of the gases. I know this is long and I apologize for being long winded, I could share much more but this is not the avenue for it. God Bless and thank you for your videos and a friend of yours I get tickled with is Chucke2009, he is pretty good and I enjoy his videos as well. I was a CWI also and that will give a good education with metals in general.
Paul, i try to respond whenever i can >> Preprogramed settings are good but I would rather set mine manually as I could with the 351Miller. Some of the students I had could barely keep an arc going with TIG > In one of your other videos you mentioned training people to weld by introducing a School or a number of booths to accommodate the number of students. That's great and I sincerely hope it all works out for you.
I don't know if we are on the same page or not but it doesn't matter, this is your video and your style of teaching and I think it helps all who view it. I was just throwing things out there from a while back. I think TH-cam is one of the best sources of learning and education for anything you want to learn. Yes you can loose a notebook, it happens but iPhones are a good source and subscribing to the channel you like another just as you mentioned. Technology has made it easy to pick up a MIG gun or electrode holder and start to weld. The welding machine is waiting for the input parameters so the newbie welder just has to initiate the arc. A long way from my beginning when we welded with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch including Aluminum and Stainless Steel. Cast Iron was an everyday thing using 1/4" brass rods on the larger pieces. An old Forney A/C machine that weighed 600 pounds and plenty of 6011 sticks. I shared my comments because it brings back a lot of welding memories and different methods. Oxygen/Acetylene torch welding was used in Boilers to weld tubes. I appreciate your response to what folks comment on. Looking forward to your next vedio
Paul, >>I don't know if we are on the same page or notTechnology has made it easy to pick up a MIG gun or electrode holder and start to weld. The welding machine is waiting for the input parameters so the newbie welder just has to initiate the arc.>A long way from my beginning when we welded with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch including Aluminum and Stainless Steel. Cast Iron was an everyday thing using 1/4" brass rods on the larger pieces. An old Forney A/C machine that weighed 600 pounds and plenty of 6011 sticks. I shared my comments because it brings back a lot of welding memories and different methods. Oxygen/Acetylene torch welding was used in Boilers to weld tubes. I appreciate your response to what folks comment on. Looking forward to your next video
Hi Peter , thank you so much in advance for doing the video about the 275p, and i will be waiting patiently for it to arrive. Stay safe , take care, Cheers Troy
Zila I noticed that this video was from 2018 can you please let me know how its still holding up. Ive alwayed used Lincoln but I am considering buying the 275p to weld aluminum at my shop. Do you have a experience with 253DPI vs 275p? Thanks for your time
I use the 275p for classes only about 3-4 times per year ... I dont really have more than a hand or few hand full of hrs on it ... typically I use it to point out the difference between a full manual pulse machine and a synergic pulse machine .... if you do a lot of aluminum you probably DONT want the 275p you want a 253dpi or 353dpi or miller 350p Lincoln 350 mp or HTP Pro pulse .... if you do a lot of steel or stainless the 275p can be a good choice as those metals are not nearly as good of a dermal conductor as aluminum is .... I own a 253Dpi, its a good machine, it makes nice welds, it does not have remote control options but they are not absolutely necessary .... I made a video on the 253DPI and you can see how nice of a weld I can do with it. th-cam.com/video/ant6kS7o8UY/w-d-xo.html
I am a pipeliner and used to engine drive stick welders... I am starting to do side work making wrought iron gates and handrails I am thinking about this machine or the everlasting power i mig 315 what do you think?
well - straight forward question deserves a straight forward answer.... I would not buy the 275P if I was planing on doing pulse work. I would rather have a 253DPI (which I have also a grid about of forts had experience with) . I dont really know anything about the 315 ....??? so hard for me to give you any advice on a machine I dont know nothing about ..... sorry .... from what I have heard and seen I think a 353DPi could be the "big brother" of the 253DPi in case you need the more power .... but again - no real first hand experience with that machine either .... I hope that helps
@@ZILAwelds thanks for taking the time to reply. I am not necessarily looking at these machines for pulse functions more of a duty cycle, power capability, and quality. I will probably be under the hood 7 hours a day
@@johnsassano8728 I never ran my machines really hard - neither the 275p nor the 253DPi to find out where duty cycle really is ... have a few hours on each machine (less than you will put on in a day .. LOL. I use them for videos, classes etc ... its more a function of dialing them in for different metals and trying out functions .... I dont really run them hard in every day life .... so....? duty cycle - I cant really give you a qualifies answer on either ..... I know bummer .... truth is when I run stuff HARD ... like some 045 dual shield I typically run that of my engine drive with a suitcase when I am in the field or I have a 300 amp machine with water-cooled gun more or less dedicated set up for that ... but big jobs cony come in the shop occasional .... a 1.5 yd scarp grapple every couple years or so . .... the really big stuff for me all happens at the customers location.... and 95% of that is engine drive work ....
John, if you are looking for a 275p a buddy of mine has a machine he used for about 2-3 hrs, I believe it has factory warranty left, email me if you are interested CL@zila.net he has the machine and drive rolls for aluminum, he is willing part with it reasonably.
Zila, I see that HTP recently worked with you to develop the Revolution 2500 which looks to be a great machine. I doubt you'd need to do other Everlast review videos but I am considering the 2 brands for a future purchase. Everlast Hurricane MTS 220-C, Lightning MTS 225 and 275 come to mind and maybe POWERPLASMA 62I or 82I. Longer warranty than HTP is probably the thing drawing me to Everlast but between you and Tony the HTP line up is tempting. I sent you a message on one of the USAWeld pages about HTP. Thanks.
I think i will be making a comparison video between the revolution 2500 and the everlast lightning 225 and the miller multimatic 220 acdc and the esab rebel 205acdc….
Pete here is the Rtech on you tube. they ahve Rtech 210ext . R-Tech Digital Tig Welder 260amp. im guessing they share the same parent company to make welders.
exactly ! and it all depends on what you want to do with it .... and some brands have more "good" or more "bad" machines than others .... that's just life thanks for watching
Hi Pete, finally someone put up a video on the 275P! I have a 255EXT and the 275P with a UNIARC 500A spool gun with 50’ gun cable and gas line. I am set up with aluminum spools and having problems running that machine due to burn back. I have tried differant spool tensions and still can’t get the mig to run right. The material ranges from .125 to .500 any help would be nice! Thanks
I don't know if there is a start speed adjustment. ( i would almost think there isn't ...). contact tip one size over, and the distance of the gun to the metal needs to be right - to close it will burn back, too far it will urn back too ! also make sure your voltage is set right. - excessive high voltage causes burnbacks too
What do you think man I can't decide between the htp 221 vs the Everlast 255ext ??? Thanks alot man I just worry the htp will not have enough for thicker aluminum with the small duty cycle vs the Everlast..
I never welded with a 255 ext - I have had a 221 for 9 years - did everything I wanted it to do ..... so I cant really tell you how they compare or which one is better ... sorry
I've seen you weld on another channel and no question you are good (damn good). So here's a question for you. I bought a Lincoln 140HD MIG welder some years back from a guy that bought it and never used it. I was looking for something to have for small projects around the house. It's worked OK but it lacks adjustability since it uses taps for the voltage control instead of being infinitely adjustable. It's also a 115Vac machine so it's limited but I generally work with stuff 3/16" or less so that's not really a big deal. I'd really like to get one of the new multi process machines but can't justify spending $1500/$2000 for what I do. What would you suggest in the I get in the $1000 and lower range?
Rich, voltage tabs (or a step transformer) is not really all that bad .... yes - as far as voltage you are "lacking" some adjustability BUT the wire speed (that essentially makes your amps) is typically infinitely adjustable ... so at some point you are not running the "perfect voltage" but there is a "technique" to that too - arc length makes voltage a short arc length reduces voltage - so by the way you are holding the gun you can "adjust" for some of that as you go .... what multi-process are you looking for? and what type of materials do you see yourself welding? btw - 3/16" material thickness is a stretch with a 110-volt machine ... you better have perfectly clean material, a ton of gun manipulation and a "warm" piece of metal that you are welding on to begin with .... just FYI... personally, I think to keep it "failsafe" 110 machines should be looked at 1/8" capacity
it will cover how pulse works - manual vs synergic pulse ... actual setting vary by application ... it will give you an idea of what does what - it will not give you actual settings - when you see the video you will understand
Daniel brown correct. Settings vary by wire type, wire diameter, maybe even by the style welding gun you use ( some have more resistance than others) the gas is really critical ( especially for steel ) this machine (275p) likes a high argon content gas for spray pulse steel like a 90%ar 10%co2 Or a 92ar 8co2 ... and you are likely to get whatever your local guy stocks ... so that being said - unless you use the same wire, same gas same torch as i do .... if i was going to give you settings - they would be either of very limited to no use to you anyways ....
Awesome Pete! Cant wait to see what you can teach people. Im get the hang of my machine, still have some splatter i would like to get rid of though. Maybe that might be something you can cover. Which settings do you adjust and which way do you adjust.
to get rid of the spatter you either have to increase voltage (if your arc is not long enough) or if it is long enough raise your pulse frequency or raise your background voltage a little - the problem is you change one - than you might have to go back and made some adjustments to all the other values again .... that is a pain in the neck
My Old 1998 Miller 210 has been a reliable aluminum spool machine. She finally gave out so I’m lookin for a designated aluminum mig. I’m considering this Everlast 275p. I’m hopeful you recommend it in your next review.
Zila sorry to bother you about something different but been searching the web for ages now, my question is have you come across mightymig 100 by sealey as it says its flux core only and comes ready to use, it says its plugged into 240 volt AC and in the instruction manual which only tells you how to put it together really says it has a DC rectifier i know nothing about electrics but if its flux core would the earth lead still go to positive terminal as its also says it a none live tourcj/gun i watched your vid with chuckE about polarity and wire feed speed, but on this unit its not as straight forward as two lugs under the lid, sorry I'm finding this hard to explain, but chuckE reviewed a flux core machine and arced if he touch metal serface without pulling trigger he said it was because it was because it was flux core welder but mine doesnt unless i pull the triggerr, frustrated and i guess you are now, if you can shed any light on this would be great if not thanks anyway and ill keep looking
John, sorry in the last 40 years i have been around i have not heard of a mightymig 100 by sealey so ar far as wire being "hot" arcing when the metal is touched that can have 2 causes 1 either the contactor is broken 2 it does not even have a contactor a mig machine (or baseless flux cored machine makes 2-3 tings when the trigger is pulled. 1 start feeding wire 2 start the welding current (by closing the contactor) 3 start the gas flow by opening the gas solenoid (or gas value in the handle) so cheaper welders dint have an electric gas solenoid valve they have a mechanical valve in the handle and i could imagine (but i have not watched the video yet that you are referring to) that there are cheap import machines that a guy could safe a few bucks by not even putting a contactor in .... that is about the only explanation i have
That particular welder that he was reviewing, was a $78 flux core shitbox. He did a miniseries, of testing the cheapest Amazon stick welder, and the cheapest Amazon MIG welder. The manufacturer of the MIG welder chose to omit certain components found on other welders, in order to keep the build cost down. That's why it was always hot. The trigger mechanism only started the spool. Several manufacturers of budget Mig machines designed to run flux core, make their machines upgradeable. One of my many welders is a Lincoln machine, that came straight from the manufacturer only able to run flux core, but has all the taps on the back to add a regulator and an Argon bottle, to be able to run the actual shielding gas. I will never bother with it though, because I only work with heavy steel, and I would prefer to burn welding rods for that. Also, you can't weld outside with a MIG welder.
its hit or miss ... sometimes I can do 2 vid a week and than depending on what is going on .... one or 2 a month ... it all depends ... and the videos that I think are great and really informative they get 2000 views .... and the once that I just make because .... they get over 8000 views .... go figure ... there is no rhyme or reason ....
1/2” steel in a single pass is pushing it … but maybe yes Typically during an AWS D1.1 test even 3/8” plate is welded in 3 passes …. That assures quality and integrity of the weld. If you would be in the flat position and weld slow enough with thick enough wire (045 most likely) and you have a ver narrow V configuration for joint prep could a guy fill that and weld 1/2” with this machine ? Most likely YES. Would i recommend this or do that myself? Most likely NO
@@nstewart636 no 6010 at least not with any desirable arc dynamic …. Does it keep a rod lit ? Maybe …. BUT that does not mean you can actually weld 6010
How does this machine compare to the HTP Pro Pulse besides the obvious amprage and it seems you need a spool gun for aluminum. Pro Pulse 60% duty to the everlast 200 amps at 100%. Someone told me the pro Pulse was a garage welder compared to this being commercial grade?
watch my video - i can tell you both of those cost about $2000, both of those are sold here in the states, both of those are advertised to be capable of welding different materials (not just steel), both of those weld, both of those are imported (one from china one from italy) both of those can do more than one welding process (one machine mig stick and the other one mig tig) and both of those come shipped with the same plug on the end where it plugs into the wall ... THAT is about there the similarities end ..... that much i will tell you - the rest - stay tuned - watch the video
Hey chucke2009 Referred my question to you I have a Lincoln ranger 8 Thinking about buying an ln25 suitcase What all will I need to run aluminum please and thank you
Justin, you can do aluminum on your ranger 8 several different ways. if you want to use your ln 25 you can do that (with a 10 ft gun with a nylon, teflon or graphite liner, a set of drive dolls for your ln 25 (the Kist is $179 I have the part number at home, and I am no there right now I can give that to you next week) and some 045 or 047 or 3/64 wire ... 4043 or 5356 ... the minimum material which knees you can weld is about 1/8" and up (I would think you can do about 1/2" material thickness in a single pass) your over all cost on this setup is several hundred for the gun and the liner plus 179 for the drive rolls plus a 12" roll of wire (roughly 17 lb) which will cost you roughly $150 ish.... so I would say you are about 600-900 dollar into this (depending on if you buy an original Lincoln gun or an after market gun) before you strike the first arc .... this set up is a good setup .... it really shines if you have a lot of aluminum to weld - a lot of thicker aluminum to weld ... (all in one place) ... the gun is short (and needs to be kept relatively straight ... ) and the suitcase and the. leads are relatively heavy and "relatively hard to move" version 2 is get a spool gun spool gun with a control box with a build in contractor .... you can run 030 or 035 aluminum wire your minimum material thickness is about 0.100" Lincoln had thew magnum SG for that purpose with the contractor box .... 25 or 30 ft Lon g lead ... the gun is 950 and the contractor box is about that same again .... now you can buy the EXACT same gun from snap on or HTP America (they only change like 800 or 900 bucks) for the gun WITH the contractor box included .... and a little $6 or $8 roll or wire and you strike the first arc .... the benefit is maximum portability - it is generally speaking more money that the version 1 (suitcase solution) but you can also weld thinner material. another "drawback" is the gun itself is heavier than just a mig gun and changing 1 lbs rolls is annoying if you weld a lot .... but for smaller repair jobs in multiple less accessible locations it is probably better ... version 3 buy an HTP PP200 and plug into the 220 volt outlet on the machine, this is by far the most expensive solution (about $2000) but by far the most elegant solution for welding thinner material ..... your minimum material thickness is about 030-040. (3/32" thin material)! and you can easily fill 1/4" wide gaps .... and if you have not bought the suitcases yet - maybe that is something you want to consider .... the weight of the PP200 is pretty much identical to the ln 25 .... and you don't have to run the heavy leads to to - you can run a 10ga. 220 volt extension cord .... version 2 and 3 you will see here shortly within the next week or 2 on my channel .... (but on a 305D ranger - out same difference ....
let me know if you want to know anything else .... I have done this for almost 10 years now ..... a lot of local guys are not used to deal with engine drives - and if they do 90% is stick only !
I've been looking at plasma cutters & Everlast seems to have the best features & warranty for the price, reviews are mostly good. Anyone have an experience or input on these? Thanks
Looking forward to the vids. Mine is an Everlast 140st stick/tig. Its been okay. But id like to upgrade to an AC/DC machine. Maybe Everlast might try something different. I have no brand preference. Whatever works.
i have welded with an everlast 200DV (acdc tig) for a few hours at a customer of mine - it works ok - its not fancy. a customer of mine came in for some welding trading and brought an eastwood 200 amp acdc in that is a few hundred less - no pulse and even less fancy - but that welded pretty good too ... if you really get serious about some tig (especially ac) the arc dynamic and arc quality is something that is very hard to measure in a unit and put it on a spec sheet ... even videos dont do it much justice ..... its like test driving a new car - you have to feel and experience it yourself first hand .... but than again - if you are looking in the under 1000 to 1500 dollar range ... there is nothing that i have seen that really "sticks out" and screams at me " i need to have this" and unless you spend 3-5g ..... it is really had to find a machine with that "WOW" factor ....
Thanks for the reply. I did see that video about the Eastwood. I did notice a slight difference between the 140st and the 160st which has the high-frequency start. Thanks to videos like the ones on your channel and others, I have learnt so much, but I think I will sign up for a welding course, hopefully, get to work with some higher end machines to see the difference, and obviously learn first hand about welding.
i dont know where you live or how far you want to go - but stay tuned to the channel by the end of april or may this year i will be starting to implement step 2 of the changes that i announced in my video "10 years Zila Industrial Repairs" by that time i should be in a position to offer welding classes. mig, stick and possibly tig ... not sure about how much tig i want to do
In my opinion, the best tig welders are EWM and Rehm. But I didn't know, if you could buy these in the states....Everlast is US branded chinese stuff, right?I like good welding videos. So, make some vid's with the Everlast. :-)
Kraut-Performance there is one company in texas that sells ewm - only some models .... and they are not cheap Everlast is buid in Asia - no idea who engineers them ? I know very little about it ....
Ewm is build in Czech Republic, developed in Germany. Rehm is a pure German product. But this doesn't really matter... If I take the jackpot, I will buy a Rehm. But for now, I'm welding with stamos S-Alu 220. It works absoluty fine. The case is similar to the eastwood ac/dc. So, it is chinese stuff too. :-D But the price is very cheep, about 500,-€. And there are many more features than at the eastwood. The only thing I missed, is the frequency adjustment in AC. I think, it works around 100HZ, but I don't know. But it works. :-)
I'm curious, this machine has been touted as the "first pulse mig, tig and stick all in one welder. However, there is a guy in Michigan, Jeff at a company called Avortec, that has been selling this type of "all in one" machines for several years. My understanding is that he is the principal electronic engineer designing these machines and having them made in China, I think. They are advertised to run at 100% duty cycle @ 250 amps with the water coolers. I'm told when you call, you can speak to the owner/designer himself. Have you ever heard of Avortec or its machines?
i am not exactly sure what you are talking about .... the i mig 275p ? that is a mig, pulsed mig and stick machine - if there is a tig function i have not discovered that yet ...... that would be the 251si or something like that ... that is a multiprocess machine mig, pulse mig, stick and tig ..... I ave never heard of Avortec either - sorry - and i dont really know who was first - and how copied whom ... and i am not set up top measure duty cycles ..... my focus will be on features, the ease of operation (or the lack there of), features and operator friendliness ... and i am pretty sure technically you could add a water cooled mig gun to every mig welder (provided you have the cooler and all the right connections - in europe water cooled mig guns are VERY popular - in the US not so much .... they are lighter and smaller, have better consumable life and often a better (high duty cycle high amperage) performance .... but they cost significant more money and they are less portable because now you also need to transport a cooler ..... and if you ever run a water cooled mig gun for more than a few seconds without the cooler being turned on .... than you buy will buy a new one pretty soon ... that is what i know
that is ok - there are sooo many thousands of red, green, blue, yellow ..... you name it - welders out there ... it is really easy to get confused and i dont know about you - i can not stay on top of all of them .... its all good ....
like i said - i have not had any encounter with their customer service so i can not tell .... i think i have a pretty good idea on features of the machine though ... we'll see how that turns out
I've got four everlast machines in my shop. I really like them and loved the fact I didn't spend a fortune on them.
My first green machine is a recently acquired PowerPlasma 80S. I have an AHP 200X for welding right now. Zilla's feedback regarding HTP and other machines has helped me figure out what I want for my next machine.
@@Enonymouse_ Do you have any HTP machines? Am looking at the Invertig 221 or the Inverarc
Love your videos and honesty, keep it up !!
Cant wait to see your comparison on the different modes of the i275P. I’ve got one and I know I’m not using it to its fullest potential. Thank you, I really like your down to earth no BS videos.
oh yes - this will be another "one hours long" video - down to the the bones - no music no bs no entertaining ... and i know it will be hard to follow for an extended amount of time .... but from what you will take home from it - it will be informative - you probably end up watching it more than once - just my guess
@@ZILAweldsI can’t believe this video is 5 years old. BTW, I hate music in tech videos. Don’t need to be entertained or indoctrinated into some freakin sub culture, it’s all about work and production.
That’s why I can easily take in a quick video of Jody’s “a welding tips and tricks”. There is a straightforward channel as is yours.
Another good channel is “Cutting Edge Engineering” Australia. No BS, just doing it!
@@Mikael5732 thanks ! The only time i do music is when i have too many people talking in the background or it is a time lapse of some build series ….
When Jody still had a welding shop full time about 8+ years ago he got into some awesome projects!
When i do some technical explanations i agree, music often times gets in the way.
Thanks for watching !
ChuckE I have 30 years in the trade am self employed with a paid off house and a debt free business. Keep up the good work buddy. You’re inspiring.
Your video on Mig Aluminum is Great, Best aluminum mig video I've seen, THANKS, William
The affordability and quality of Everlast's products enabled me to be able to get into fabrication. They seem to be bringing out better products each year.
same with Jimbo from Jimbos Garage, 4 years ago he bought 3 Everlast machines and he started welding, fabricating and a youtube channel with those! And now he upgraded a little bit.
There is nothing wrong with NOT buying top of the line to get your feet wet and get into the workflow and cash flow...
And at the end of the day, you will see if you compare ANY machines side by side no matter what ma manufactures they are you will see what the upsides and downsides of those machines are and what works best for you.
One thing to remember is: Arc quality and Arc dynamic cannot be measured in a spec sheet - YOU have to experience it for yourself first hand!
I bought a POWER i-MIG200E in September of 2018. I have had a lot of problems with it. I do not consider it a reliable product.
List of all known problems:
-9/2018 - Gas hose leak - repaired this by tightening the crimped hose clamps on the hose.
-?/2019 - Trigger contacts dirty - I had to disassemble the gun and clean the contacts to get it to work.
-3/2019 - Gas Solenoid sticking - Lost a whole 80 cu ft tank of shielding gas during a lunch break.
-8/2019 - Wire feeder does not work - When I pull the trigger, I hear a faint click, but the wire feeder roller does not turn.
Other issues that I don't care for:
-Ground cable seems very short.
-I prefer a shielding nozzle that screws on instead of the push on type like this welder has.
-No chart for weld settings based on metal thickness like most other MIG welders have.
Returned it for warranty repair. One way shipping was over $80. I assume it will be the same for return shipping also. Paid $600 for welder and now another $160 in shipping. Still less than a Hobart or Lincoln. At least it broke during the warranty period. But it'll probably be gone a month or more.
I'm pretty interested in the Everlast pulse mig welders. Any further information you have or your experience would be great.
there will be some real welding and arc shots and explanation very soon - hopefully next week - if not for sure the week after
ZILA, I was surprised you responded to some previous comments, thank you. I would love to get my hands on an EVERLAST but that's not going to happen. One suggestion, I had mentioned that I was a Welding Instructor for many years and one machine I used was a Miller 351 AC/DC with the optional Pulse Panel. Preprogramed settings are good but I would rather set mine manually as I could with the 351Miller. Some of the students I had could barely keep an arc going with TIG and as long as I was there to set the machine so I had my students get a pocket note book. I used a white board and drew out every setting on the machine the a separate set of notes of pulse settings, the best generic starting point that would work with everyone then moved onto one on one with each individual helping them find the best settings for the materials or situation. These students were employees at a Mill where they were operators of the equipment. Each one had to learn basic welding and pipe fitting more or less with screw pipe which is another science that most don't know how to do properly. Having a note book with machine settings and part numbers for TIG parts, etc., made a huge difference. In my younger days with the MK Products push pull gun we were using 90% Helium 10% Argon. Most aluminum plate thickness ran from 3/8" to 2". I certified new employees under Coast Guard Regulations. The Coast Guard had their own inspectors on site periodically and during all testing. In one of your other videos you mentioned training people to weld by introducing a School or a number of booths to accommodate the number of students. That's great and I sincerely hope it all works out for you. I used Oxy/Acetylene torch welding to show the puddle but also to teach the safety of the gases. I know this is long and I apologize for being long winded, I could share much more but this is not the avenue for it. God Bless and thank you for your videos and a friend of yours I get tickled with is Chucke2009, he is pretty good and I enjoy his videos as well. I was a CWI also and that will give a good education with metals in general.
Paul, i try to respond whenever i can
>> Preprogramed settings are good but I would rather set mine manually as I could with the 351Miller. Some of the students I had could barely keep an arc going with TIG > In one of your other videos you mentioned training people to weld by introducing a School or a number of booths to accommodate the number of students. That's great and I sincerely hope it all works out for you.
I don't know if we are on the same page or not but it doesn't matter, this is your video and your style of teaching and I think it helps all who view it. I was just throwing things out there from a while back. I think TH-cam is one of the best sources of learning and education for anything you want to learn. Yes you can loose a notebook, it happens but iPhones are a good source and subscribing to the channel you like another just as you mentioned. Technology has made it easy to pick up a MIG gun or electrode holder and start to weld. The welding machine is waiting for the input parameters so the newbie welder just has to initiate the arc. A long way from my beginning when we welded with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch including Aluminum and Stainless Steel. Cast Iron was an everyday thing using 1/4" brass rods on the larger pieces. An old Forney A/C machine that weighed 600 pounds and plenty of 6011 sticks. I shared my comments because it brings back a lot of welding memories and different methods. Oxygen/Acetylene torch welding was used in Boilers to weld tubes. I appreciate your response to what folks comment on. Looking forward to your next vedio
Paul,
>>I don't know if we are on the same page or notTechnology has made it easy to pick up a MIG gun or electrode holder and start to weld. The welding machine is waiting for the input parameters so the newbie welder just has to initiate the arc.>A long way from my beginning when we welded with an Oxygen/Acetylene torch including Aluminum and Stainless Steel. Cast Iron was an everyday thing using 1/4" brass rods on the larger pieces. An old Forney A/C machine that weighed 600 pounds and plenty of 6011 sticks. I shared my comments because it brings back a lot of welding memories and different methods. Oxygen/Acetylene torch welding was used in Boilers to weld tubes. I appreciate your response to what folks comment on. Looking forward to your next video
Hi Peter , thank you so much in advance for doing the video about the 275p, and i will be waiting patiently for it to arrive.
Stay safe , take care,
Cheers Troy
Zila I noticed that this video was from 2018 can you please let me know how its still holding up. Ive alwayed used Lincoln but I am considering buying the 275p to weld aluminum at my shop. Do you have a experience with 253DPI vs 275p? Thanks for your time
I use the 275p for classes only about 3-4 times per year ... I dont really have more than a hand or few hand full of hrs on it ... typically I use it to point out the difference between a full manual pulse machine and a synergic pulse machine .... if you do a lot of aluminum you probably DONT want the 275p you want a 253dpi or 353dpi or miller 350p Lincoln 350 mp or HTP Pro pulse .... if you do a lot of steel or stainless the 275p can be a good choice as those metals are not nearly as good of a dermal conductor as aluminum is ....
I own a 253Dpi, its a good machine, it makes nice welds, it does not have remote control options but they are not absolutely necessary .... I made a video on the 253DPI and you can see how nice of a weld I can do with it.
th-cam.com/video/ant6kS7o8UY/w-d-xo.html
thank you for your opinion and honesty, !!! Aloha
Of course!!
Just saw you on Steven Cox's SV Seeker video, so I had to come like & subscribe. I'll be binge-watching your stuff all day, so I'm pretty excited.
Rusty Shakelford thank you !
I am a pipeliner and used to engine drive stick welders... I am starting to do side work making wrought iron gates and handrails I am thinking about this machine or the everlasting power i mig 315 what do you think?
well - straight forward question deserves a straight forward answer.... I would not buy the 275P if I was planing on doing pulse work. I would rather have a 253DPI (which I have also a grid about of forts had experience with) . I dont really know anything about the 315 ....??? so hard for me to give you any advice on a machine I dont know nothing about ..... sorry .... from what I have heard and seen I think a 353DPi could be the "big brother" of the 253DPi in case you need the more power .... but again - no real first hand experience with that machine either .... I hope that helps
@@ZILAwelds thanks for taking the time to reply. I am not necessarily looking at these machines for pulse functions more of a duty cycle, power capability, and quality. I will probably be under the hood 7 hours a day
@@johnsassano8728 I never ran my machines really hard - neither the 275p nor the 253DPi to find out where duty cycle really is ... have a few hours on each machine (less than you will put on in a day .. LOL. I use them for videos, classes etc ... its more a function of dialing them in for different metals and trying out functions .... I dont really run them hard in every day life .... so....? duty cycle - I cant really give you a qualifies answer on either ..... I know bummer .... truth is when I run stuff HARD ... like some 045 dual shield I typically run that of my engine drive with a suitcase when I am in the field or I have a 300 amp machine with water-cooled gun more or less dedicated set up for that ... but big jobs cony come in the shop occasional .... a 1.5 yd scarp grapple every couple years or so . .... the really big stuff for me all happens at the customers location.... and 95% of that is engine drive work ....
John, if you are looking for a 275p a buddy of mine has a machine he used for about 2-3 hrs, I believe it has factory warranty left, email me if you are interested CL@zila.net he has the machine and drive rolls for aluminum, he is willing part with it reasonably.
Zila, I see that HTP recently worked with you to develop the Revolution 2500 which looks to be a great machine. I doubt you'd need to do other Everlast review videos but I am considering the 2 brands for a future purchase. Everlast Hurricane MTS 220-C, Lightning MTS 225 and 275 come to mind and maybe POWERPLASMA 62I or 82I. Longer warranty than HTP is probably the thing drawing me to Everlast but between you and Tony the HTP line up is tempting. I sent you a message on one of the USAWeld pages about HTP. Thanks.
I think i will be making a comparison video between the revolution 2500 and the everlast lightning 225 and the miller multimatic 220 acdc and the esab rebel 205acdc….
Pete here is the Rtech on you tube. they ahve Rtech 210ext . R-Tech Digital Tig Welder 260amp. im guessing they share the same parent company to make welders.
Great point about brands. Each brand has good and bad.
exactly ! and it all depends on what you want to do with it .... and some brands have more "good" or more "bad" machines than others .... that's just life
thanks for watching
Hi Pete, finally someone put up a video on the 275P! I have a 255EXT and the 275P with a UNIARC 500A spool gun with 50’ gun cable and gas line. I am set up with aluminum spools and having problems running that machine due to burn back. I have tried differant spool tensions and still can’t get the mig to run right. The material ranges from .125 to .500 any help would be nice! Thanks
islanduni burn back at the start of a weld? In the middle or at the end?
At the start , can’t get it to start. I tried a oversize tip and that didn’t work either.
I don't know if there is a start speed adjustment. ( i would almost think there isn't ...). contact tip one size over, and the distance of the gun to the metal needs to be right - to close it will burn back, too far it will urn back too ! also make sure your voltage is set right. - excessive high voltage causes burnbacks too
Thanks for sharing looking forward to your comments..
What do you think man I can't decide between the htp 221 vs the Everlast 255ext ??? Thanks alot man I just worry the htp will not have enough for thicker aluminum with the small duty cycle vs the Everlast..
I never welded with a 255 ext - I have had a 221 for 9 years - did everything I wanted it to do ..... so I cant really tell you how they compare or which one is better ... sorry
In the end its the welder... however the welder does help... of i can drive the vehicle dosnt matter but the right vehicle will make you go faster
I've seen you weld on another channel and no question you are good (damn good). So here's a question for you. I bought a Lincoln 140HD MIG welder some years back from a guy that bought it and never used it. I was looking for something to have for small projects around the house. It's worked OK but it lacks adjustability since it uses taps for the voltage control instead of being infinitely adjustable. It's also a 115Vac machine so it's limited but I generally work with stuff 3/16" or less so that's not really a big deal. I'd really like to get one of the new multi process machines but can't justify spending $1500/$2000 for what I do. What would you suggest in the I get in the $1000 and lower range?
Rich, voltage tabs (or a step transformer) is not really all that bad .... yes - as far as voltage you are "lacking" some adjustability BUT the wire speed (that essentially makes your amps) is typically infinitely adjustable ... so at some point you are not running the "perfect voltage" but there is a "technique" to that too - arc length makes voltage a short arc length reduces voltage - so by the way you are holding the gun you can "adjust" for some of that as you go ....
what multi-process are you looking for? and what type of materials do you see yourself welding?
btw - 3/16" material thickness is a stretch with a 110-volt machine ... you better have perfectly clean material, a ton of gun manipulation and a "warm" piece of metal that you are welding on to begin with .... just FYI...
personally, I think to keep it "failsafe" 110 machines should be looked at 1/8" capacity
Hey Peter, i'm really interested in how well the slow wire run in prevents sputtering on starts. will that be covered well in the video?
Daniel brown i can cover that in a video in the next few weeks. I am not sure that it is a good fit for the video that i have in mind
is the video you're planing go to cover the steel pulse settings well?
it will cover how pulse works - manual vs synergic pulse ... actual setting vary by application ... it will give you an idea of what does what - it will not give you actual settings - when you see the video you will understand
the settings you use likely wouldn't do me any good anyway. vert and overhead pulse too?
Daniel brown correct. Settings vary by wire type, wire diameter, maybe even by the style welding gun you use ( some have more resistance than others) the gas is really critical ( especially for steel ) this machine (275p) likes a high argon content gas for spray pulse steel like a 90%ar 10%co2 Or a 92ar 8co2 ... and you are likely to get whatever your local guy stocks ... so that being said - unless you use the same wire, same gas same torch as i do .... if i was going to give you settings - they would be either of very limited to no use to you anyways ....
Great another video of I really can't say...…...
Awesome Pete! Cant wait to see what you can teach people. Im get the hang of my machine, still have some splatter i would like to get rid of though.
Maybe that might be something you can cover. Which settings do you adjust and which way do you adjust.
to get rid of the spatter you either have to increase voltage (if your arc is not long enough) or if it is long enough raise your pulse frequency or raise your background voltage a little - the problem is you change one - than you might have to go back and made some adjustments to all the other values again ....
that is a pain in the neck
ZILA i have tried increasing the voltage, just seems to burn through. I will try the other 2.
Thanks again for all your help!
Mr. greens boat tanks and aluminium welding turn down wire speed
chris jones - if it only was that easy .... that will make your arc way too long .. this setup is really involved !
whats all involved in repairing magnesium ?
gary mathews an acdc tig welder and some magnesium rods ( roughly $175/lbs)
My Old 1998 Miller 210 has been a reliable aluminum spool machine. She finally gave out so I’m lookin for a designated aluminum mig. I’m considering this Everlast 275p. I’m hopeful you recommend it in your next review.
Mobile Welding And Trailer Repair we’ll see give me a few weeks and you will get the full run down.
Where's the video on the harbor freight welder you were going to do??
th-cam.com/video/oDgz8wpfwYE/w-d-xo.html
here it is - grab a beer or a cup of coffee - its an hour long !
Zila sorry to bother you about something different but been searching the web for ages now, my question is have you come across mightymig 100 by sealey as it says its flux core only and comes ready to use, it says its plugged into 240 volt AC and in the instruction manual which only tells you how to put it together really says it has a DC rectifier i know nothing about electrics but if its flux core would the earth lead still go to positive terminal as its also says it a none live tourcj/gun i watched your vid with chuckE about polarity and wire feed speed, but on this unit its not as straight forward as two lugs under the lid, sorry I'm finding this hard to explain, but chuckE reviewed a flux core machine and arced if he touch metal serface without pulling trigger he said it was because it was because it was flux core welder but mine doesnt unless i pull the triggerr, frustrated and i guess you are now, if you can shed any light on this would be great if not thanks anyway and ill keep looking
John, sorry in the last 40 years i have been around i have not heard of a mightymig 100 by sealey so ar far as wire being "hot" arcing when the metal is touched that can have 2 causes
1 either the contactor is broken
2 it does not even have a contactor
a mig machine (or baseless flux cored machine makes 2-3 tings when the trigger is pulled.
1 start feeding wire
2 start the welding current (by closing the contactor)
3 start the gas flow by opening the gas solenoid (or gas value in the handle)
so cheaper welders dint have an electric gas solenoid valve they have a mechanical valve in the handle and i could imagine (but i have not watched the video yet that you are referring to) that there are cheap import machines that a guy could safe a few bucks by not even putting a contactor in ....
that is about the only explanation i have
That particular welder that he was reviewing, was a $78 flux core shitbox. He did a miniseries, of testing the cheapest Amazon stick welder, and the cheapest Amazon MIG welder. The manufacturer of the MIG welder chose to omit certain components found on other welders, in order to keep the build cost down. That's why it was always hot. The trigger mechanism only started the spool. Several manufacturers of budget Mig machines designed to run flux core, make their machines upgradeable. One of my many welders is a Lincoln machine, that came straight from the manufacturer only able to run flux core, but has all the taps on the back to add a regulator and an Argon bottle, to be able to run the actual shielding gas. I will never bother with it though, because I only work with heavy steel, and I would prefer to burn welding rods for that. Also, you can't weld outside with a MIG welder.
Zila you'll have to get faster with post video production. We need more video's. 🍴🍴🍴🍴
its hit or miss ... sometimes I can do 2 vid a week and than depending on what is going on .... one or 2 a month ... it all depends ... and the videos that I think are great and really informative they get 2000 views .... and the once that I just make because .... they get over 8000 views .... go figure ... there is no rhyme or reason ....
ZILA I can dig that
Will it do 1/2 steel?
Will it run 6010?
1/2” steel in a single pass is pushing it … but maybe yes
Typically during an AWS D1.1 test even 3/8” plate is welded in 3 passes …. That assures quality and integrity of the weld.
If you would be in the flat position and weld slow enough with thick enough wire (045 most likely) and you have a ver narrow V configuration for joint prep could a guy fill that and weld 1/2” with this machine ? Most likely YES. Would i recommend this or do that myself? Most likely NO
@@nstewart636 no 6010 at least not with any desirable arc dynamic …. Does it keep a rod lit ? Maybe …. BUT that does not mean you can actually weld 6010
Just bought the 140 stick/tig machine.Havent used it yet tho.Just found your channel.Are you german or austrian?
german from cologne
ZILA Really!Ich komme aus Hamburg.,'N Tag!
moin moin
How does this machine compare to the HTP Pro Pulse besides the obvious amprage and it seems you need a spool gun for aluminum. Pro Pulse 60% duty to the everlast 200 amps at 100%. Someone told me the pro Pulse was a garage welder compared to this being commercial grade?
watch my video - i can tell you both of those cost about $2000, both of those are sold here in the states, both of those are advertised to be capable of welding different materials (not just steel), both of those weld, both of those are imported (one from china one from italy) both of those can do more than one welding process (one machine mig stick and the other one mig tig) and both of those come shipped with the same plug on the end where it plugs into the wall ... THAT is about there the similarities end ..... that much i will tell you - the rest - stay tuned - watch the video
ZILA Thanks Pete, I love my Pro Pulse so I’ll be curious on your next video on this.
ZILA : I'm in. Get-er-done. I'm tapping my foot with great expectations. Are you done yet. Let's get a move on. Man how long is this going to take. 😁
not too long ... it is on the schedule as soon as some of those sv seeker footage is edited .. ! so a couple weeks from now maybe
I want to see this!
oh its coming !
I've got three everlast welders. Darn good machines.
Benjamin Moore which once do you have?
Benjamin Moore compared to what, dog turd?
Hey chucke2009 Referred my question to you I have a Lincoln ranger 8 Thinking about buying an ln25 suitcase What all will I need to run aluminum please and thank you
Justin, you can do aluminum on your ranger 8 several different ways.
if you want to use your ln 25 you can do that (with a 10 ft gun with a nylon, teflon or graphite liner, a set of drive dolls for your ln 25 (the Kist is $179 I have the part number at home, and I am no there right now I can give that to you next week) and some 045 or 047 or 3/64 wire ... 4043 or 5356 ... the minimum material which knees you can weld is about 1/8" and up (I would think you can do about 1/2" material thickness in a single pass)
your over all cost on this setup is several hundred for the gun and the liner plus 179 for the drive rolls plus a 12" roll of wire (roughly 17 lb) which will cost you roughly $150 ish.... so I would say you are about 600-900 dollar into this (depending on if you buy an original Lincoln gun or an after market gun) before you strike the first arc ....
this set up is a good setup .... it really shines if you have a lot of aluminum to weld - a lot of thicker aluminum to weld ... (all in one place) ... the gun is short (and needs to be kept relatively straight ... ) and the suitcase and the. leads are relatively heavy and "relatively hard to move"
version 2 is get a spool gun
spool gun with a control box with a build in contractor .... you can run 030 or 035 aluminum wire your minimum material thickness is about 0.100"
Lincoln had thew magnum SG for that purpose with the contractor box .... 25 or 30 ft Lon g lead ... the gun is 950 and the contractor box is about that same again ....
now you can buy the EXACT same gun from snap on or HTP America (they only change like 800 or 900 bucks) for the gun WITH the contractor box included ....
and a little $6 or $8 roll or wire and you strike the first arc ....
the benefit is maximum portability - it is generally speaking more money that the version 1 (suitcase solution) but you can also weld thinner material. another "drawback" is the gun itself is heavier than just a mig gun and changing 1 lbs rolls is annoying if you weld a lot .... but for smaller repair jobs in multiple less accessible locations it is probably better ...
version 3
buy an HTP PP200 and plug into the 220 volt outlet on the machine, this is by far the most expensive solution (about $2000) but by far the most elegant solution for welding thinner material ..... your minimum material thickness is about 030-040. (3/32" thin material)! and you can easily fill 1/4" wide gaps ....
and if you have not bought the suitcases yet - maybe that is something you want to consider .... the weight of the PP200 is pretty much identical to the ln 25 .... and you don't have to run the heavy leads to to - you can run a 10ga. 220 volt extension cord ....
version 2 and 3 you will see here shortly within the next week or 2 on my channel .... (but on a 305D ranger - out same difference ....
ZILA Thank you so much I went to my local airgas store and nobody could tell me anything
let me know if you want to know anything else .... I have done this for almost 10 years now ..... a lot of local guys are not used to deal with engine drives - and if they do 90% is stick only !
I've been looking at plasma cutters & Everlast seems to have the best features & warranty for the price, reviews are mostly good. Anyone have an experience or input on these? Thanks
sorry - no expeience - i bought another import cutter thought ... and i will see what that one does .... give me a few weeks for the review
Thanks! I'll be looking forward to it.
I've had two Everlast machines and they both took crap their customer service isn't very good 5-year warranty my butt I won't ever buy another one
Looking forward to the vids. Mine is an Everlast 140st stick/tig. Its been okay. But id like to upgrade to an AC/DC machine. Maybe Everlast might try something different. I have no brand preference. Whatever works.
i have welded with an everlast 200DV (acdc tig) for a few hours at a customer of mine - it works ok - its not fancy. a customer of mine came in for some welding trading and brought an eastwood 200 amp acdc in that is a few hundred less - no pulse and even less fancy - but that welded pretty good too ...
if you really get serious about some tig (especially ac) the arc dynamic and arc quality is something that is very hard to measure in a unit and put it on a spec sheet ... even videos dont do it much justice ..... its like test driving a new car - you have to feel and experience it yourself first hand .... but than again - if you are looking in the under 1000 to 1500 dollar range ... there is nothing that i have seen that really "sticks out" and screams at me " i need to have this" and unless you spend 3-5g ..... it is really had to find a machine with that "WOW" factor ....
Thanks for the reply. I did see that video about the Eastwood. I did notice a slight difference between the 140st and the 160st which has the high-frequency start. Thanks to videos like the ones on your channel and others, I have learnt so much, but I think I will sign up for a welding course, hopefully, get to work with some higher end machines to see the difference, and obviously learn first hand about welding.
i dont know where you live or how far you want to go - but stay tuned to the channel by the end of april or may this year i will be starting to implement step 2 of the changes that i announced in my video "10 years Zila Industrial Repairs" by that time i should be in a position to offer welding classes. mig, stick and possibly tig ... not sure about how much tig i want to do
In my opinion, the best tig welders are EWM and Rehm. But I didn't know, if you could buy these in the states....Everlast is US branded chinese stuff, right?I like good welding videos. So, make some vid's with the Everlast. :-)
Kraut-Performance there is one company in texas that sells ewm - only some models .... and they are not cheap Everlast is buid in Asia - no idea who engineers them ? I know very little about it ....
Ewm is build in Czech Republic, developed in Germany.
Rehm is a pure German product.
But this doesn't really matter...
If I take the jackpot, I will buy a Rehm.
But for now, I'm welding with stamos S-Alu 220. It works absoluty fine. The case is similar to the eastwood ac/dc. So, it is chinese stuff too. :-D
But the price is very cheep, about 500,-€. And there are many more features than at the eastwood.
The only thing I missed, is the frequency adjustment in AC. I think, it works around 100HZ, but I don't know. But it works. :-)
I'm curious, this machine has been touted as the "first pulse mig, tig and stick all in one welder. However, there is a guy in Michigan, Jeff at a company called Avortec, that has been selling this type of "all in one" machines for several years. My understanding is that he is the principal electronic engineer designing these machines and having them made in China, I think. They are advertised to run at 100% duty cycle @ 250 amps with the water coolers. I'm told when you call, you can speak to the owner/designer himself. Have you ever heard of Avortec or its machines?
i am not exactly sure what you are talking about .... the i mig 275p ? that is a mig, pulsed mig and stick machine - if there is a tig function i have not discovered that yet ...... that would be the 251si or something like that ... that is a multiprocess machine mig, pulse mig, stick and tig ..... I ave never heard of Avortec either - sorry - and i dont really know who was first - and how copied whom ... and i am not set up top measure duty cycles ..... my focus will be on features, the ease of operation (or the lack there of), features and operator friendliness ... and i am pretty sure technically you could add a water cooled mig gun to every mig welder (provided you have the cooler and all the right connections - in europe water cooled mig guns are VERY popular - in the US not so much .... they are lighter and smaller, have better consumable life and often a better (high duty cycle high amperage) performance .... but they cost significant more money and they are less portable because now you also need to transport a cooler .....
and if you ever run a water cooled mig gun for more than a few seconds without the cooler being turned on .... than you buy will buy a new one pretty soon ... that is what i know
Yeah, I think I got the welders mix up. Sorry about that, but thanks for the info.
that is ok - there are sooo many thousands of red, green, blue, yellow ..... you name it - welders out there ... it is really easy to get confused and i dont know about you - i can not stay on top of all of them .... its all good ....
Everlast, Esab=bragging rights. enough said
best see bbb before
Their customer service fucking sucks.
like i said - i have not had any encounter with their customer service so i can not tell .... i think i have a pretty good idea on features of the machine though ... we'll see how that turns out