That would require an insane amount of extra dimpling adding more time to the build that is not necessary. I believe it was De Haviland that proved back in the 1940's by glueing split peas over flush rivets to see where flush rivets mattered, and where they did not. They gradually removed the split peas until it was demonstrated that the domed rivets had no effect on airflow.
@@TheBaldPilot Yep. I did investigate this a bit further on a Vans forum. Benefits for flush rivets used overall are associated with aesthetics and painting. Appreciate the reply.
Thanks for all your details on the wiring. That’s great! I am about there on my project. (Unfortunately, it’s a rebuild with the wings fully skinned, so I’m having to reach through rib holes to get to the internals. Fortunately, there are 2 4-foot wing panels on each side so I have somewhat decent access.) Really enjoying these videos! Thanks!
If you don't have one already I recommend the Cleveland tools close quarters dimple die set. It uses a pull rivet gun to set dimples in hard to reach places and may have helped with your stringer. I have found a lot of places to use mine so far. I watched your bearhawk build and am really enjoying this one. Cant believe how fast this is going together.
i actually do have the Cleveland dimple die set. All of the dimples on the Sling TSi are 120 degrees. It seems the Cleveland tool is 100 degrees. Thanks for watching! (again) :)
Hey great video. I'm in school finalizing my A&P this April and one thing I wanted to point out is that fiberglass and aluminum shrink at different rates. I know the spar is taking the majority of the stress but stringers are structural and I worry about possible delamination with the wing flex and temperature changes over time. I think it will hold for a while but I really would suggest looking into getting some rivets (not necessarily pop rivets) while the wing is open. Using a bucking bar inside the stringer and flush head rivet from the bottom should work well and keep that smooth aesthetic you are looking for. Once its closed up it will be an absolute monster to revisit. Looking forward to the build videos!
Thanks so much! Yeah, we took care of it. Actually the stringer is not structural and only floating. The original concept did not have a stringer on the last 2 ribs. The current concept has the stringer in place to prevent oil canning and we secure it with blind AN pull (not pop) rivets. Thanks so much for watching!
Great stuff, if you could slow down the camera just a bit... would be awesome... Keep up the good work, I have a feeling quite a few planes will be sold because of your amazing videos... get an affiliate agreement put together quick...
The aileron pushrod tube are back ordered, so I did test the opening with a vacuum cleaner tube and everything completely clears the lightening holes. I intended to show that in the video. Thanks for asking and watching.
![Building the Wings [Sling TSi Build Video # 6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/epmMlhTg-lg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Building the Wings [Sling TSi Build Video # 6]](/img/tr.png)
![Sealing & Pressure Testing my Fuel Tanks [Sling TSi Build Video #15]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ML4a2SPT7eQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Solving the Mystery Installing Flaps and Ailerons [Sling TSi Build Video #17]](/img/n.gif)
Why does Sling not use flush rivets overall ?
That would require an insane amount of extra dimpling adding more time to the build that is not necessary. I believe it was De Haviland that proved back in the 1940's by glueing split peas over flush rivets to see where flush rivets mattered, and where they did not. They gradually removed the split peas until it was demonstrated that the domed rivets had no effect on airflow.
@@TheBaldPilot Yep. I did investigate this a bit further on a Vans forum. Benefits for flush rivets used overall are associated with aesthetics and painting. Appreciate the reply.
Thanks for all your details on the wiring. That’s great! I am about there on my project. (Unfortunately, it’s a rebuild with the wings fully skinned, so I’m having to reach through rib holes to get to the internals. Fortunately, there are 2 4-foot wing panels on each side so I have somewhat decent access.)
Really enjoying these videos! Thanks!
Oh wow! That's a big job! Good luck and thanks for watching!
If you don't have one already I recommend the Cleveland tools close quarters dimple die set. It uses a pull rivet gun to set dimples in hard to reach places and may have helped with your stringer. I have found a lot of places to use mine so far. I watched your bearhawk build and am really enjoying this one. Cant believe how fast this is going together.
i actually do have the Cleveland dimple die set. All of the dimples on the Sling TSi are 120 degrees. It seems the Cleveland tool is 100 degrees. Thanks for watching! (again) :)
Thank for sharing your experiences and also the issues you ran into. If will be super helpful for when I start my build when I arrives
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Hey great video. I'm in school finalizing my A&P this April and one thing I wanted to point out is that fiberglass and aluminum shrink at different rates. I know the spar is taking the majority of the stress but stringers are structural and I worry about possible delamination with the wing flex and temperature changes over time. I think it will hold for a while but I really would suggest looking into getting some rivets (not necessarily pop rivets) while the wing is open. Using a bucking bar inside the stringer and flush head rivet from the bottom should work well and keep that smooth aesthetic you are looking for. Once its closed up it will be an absolute monster to revisit. Looking forward to the build videos!
Thanks so much! Yeah, we took care of it. Actually the stringer is not structural and only floating. The original concept did not have a stringer on the last 2 ribs. The current concept has the stringer in place to prevent oil canning and we secure it with blind AN pull (not pop) rivets. Thanks so much for watching!
Thank you. That is awesome this is turning out great.@@TheBaldPilot
Great stuff, if you could slow down the camera just a bit... would be awesome... Keep up the good work, I have a feeling quite a few planes will be sold because of your amazing videos... get an affiliate agreement put together quick...
Thanks for the tip! And thanks for watching!
great video
Thanks!
Nice videos! The dimple issue with the stringer could have been solved by using "pop rivet dimplers".
Possibly, I am not aware of a hand riveter with a 120 degree dimple die. Those are extremely unique.
Very elligant!
Thank you!
Great videos! Can’t wait for next ones to come out. A question I had is, what type of rivet gun is this? I don’t think I’ve seen this particular one.
It's a pneumatic rivet gun. Thanks for watching!
@@TheBaldPilotwould you mind sharing the brand?
@@bimeroknew4119 From Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ89J44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Just to be sure, did you test fit the aileron push rod to be aware it did not interfere the pitot hoses/connectors? #hodoIknow😂
The aileron pushrod tube are back ordered, so I did test the opening with a vacuum cleaner tube and everything completely clears the lightening holes. I intended to show that in the video. Thanks for asking and watching.
wgt doesn't equal vol
Got it. Thanks for watching!