I had to use option 2 on my old town predator. Went with 1 1/4 ID PVC schedule 40. Used the 1/4 in toilet bowl kit. Put the metal washers on the inside so the nut will rest in it. Went with the threaded male cap and female adapter so I can make changes as needed. Making 4 at once to max out the epoxy. Thanks! Doc
If you use the putty method, score the bottom of the pvc on the inside with a file or a sharp knife, even scissors. The roughened and irregular surface will ensure that the putty will hold its place far longer than if the surface had been smooth.
Agreed. Additionally, 'Gorilla' epoxy especially is the absolute worst in epoxies... Use JB Weld, but some silicon spray on the threads and let it cure for 24 hours, again after you score/sand down the internal PVC, it WILL be worth it and last forever.
+Adventure Outdoors Thanks! Appreciate the endorsement. The only problem is now I have more gear heads than I can shake a stick at! Luckily, plenty of buddies to give them away to.
I love this hack and that you provide two different approaches. Let me add a third: heat the bolt and use it as a threading tap. Drill the hole a little smaller than the bolt, heat the end of the bolt with a heat gun or lighter (not super hot but hot enough to soften pvc) and thread the cap onto the hot bolt. May have to heat it a second time to complete the threading. Primary thing to watch for is to make sure you keep it aligned because the bolt can get cockeyed if you're careless. If you have a tap you can do that instead, but this has worked quite well. There's enough meat there for sufficient threads to hold fast. I sized one for holding one of the manufacturer's adjustable angle rod holders (just sits down in there snugly) I carry a rod in there with some heavy rigs at a pretty flat angle and it rides like a champ.
I like the idea. I'm not a kayaker, but this system could work equally well on my plastic Bass Hunter Stalker II pontoon boat, as well as, on my bass boat. You got the wheels in my brain spinning.
I think this is by far the most useful, cost effective hack I have seen for kayaks yet. Thank you for putting this out there, I am going to be making a few this weekend for my new kayak! Steve.
See in the other comments some improvements to make the bond better. Basically, drill a few holes in addition to the center hole so the glue or epoxy putty and fill those holes. This will create a better grip on the nut. Take care!
If you drill some tiny holes half way thru the inside of the PVC fitting where you pour the epoxy it will help hold it solidly. or you can just drill all the way thru and wrap the PVC with tape on the outside to cover the holes and pour in the epoxy,the tape will keep the epoxy from running out...........makes it very solid and will never let the nut spin !
One improvement is to drill some additional holes around the center hole for the bolt. Then the epoxy can flow into those as well to create more grab. Put tape on the bottom to keep the epoxy from flowing out of the additional holes.
Made some of these using wToilet bolts wing nuts and a torch. After drilling, heat up the wing nut and pull down into the fitting. It melts it's way in and seems really stout. I did it to start and reheated to pull it to bottom. Careful that they cool vertical. If hot and laid horizontal, the bolt will pull down while cooling and get things out of perpendicular. Willl try to attach video. Ready in 5 mins. Testing them out tomorrow. FYI I am new to kayaking this summer and your channel is terrific in getting me going in the right ways.
Great hack! Finding it hard to find which gear tracks fit other vendors accessories. For example: I have Scotty accessories and want to find a track with one line of holes. Like your hack for tracks, I might try that.
Good point - added - Parts: Choose any size PVC to match the strength required. You need a plug (slip or thread), an adapter to match your plug, a toilet bolt (or any T Bolt) and nut, and epoxy
Great video. I haven't seen a depth finder mount I liked. Mounting in middle of floor is out of the question. Using this method. I can make A PVC arm that swivels out of the way. Your videos are very informative. Thanks
Great Idea! 10/10 Scotty gear heads are expensive. This looks like a reliable alternative. Thank you for this. Toilet bolts!!!! DUH, I knew I saw those gear head bolts somewhere before....
+Kayak Chris I was able to pick up the same bolts used on gear heads at my kayak dealer, but they are pretty expensive. I forget what I paid for two, but it was more than I wanted to spend. You have a nice channel! I will subscribe via my other account.
Hi, my name is Randy. I am new to kayaking, fishing for a long time thought. I have got a lot of good ideas for you, thanks. Here is my idea. I used pronged t nuts. So far so good. I drilled a hole like you did I heated the bottom of the PCV cap and drove the t nut down. Works great so far, and cheep 3 t nuts was $0.80 Have a great day and year
Thanks for the great video tutorial! I combined your design/method with some ideas from a Zoffinger video to make a rail mounted scotty type rod holder and a camera mount.
How about a video on making a mount for a motor using the same track system or something on the back of the kayak for a gas motor. Appreciate your content!
lol! I would have to get a motor! Great idea and when I am old and beat up, I'll have to figure that out. I think there are a number of videos out there from other folks that discuss this if you do not want to wait for me to age!
Curious if one could cut some disks from a sheet of delrin plastic with a hole saw to act as large 'fender washers' between the rail and the hacked gear head? Innovative hack with endless options for each individual application!
Great hack. I'm new to kayaking and don't want to spend a ton on mounting since I'm not fishing but still like to carry gear. I'm too lazy/inept to make my own video so here's a request. I'm working on ways to use Bucket Boss - Flap Fit (or whatever brand) tool belt accessories since the kayak specific bags are so expensive. There aren't very many videos (if any) I could find combining rail hacks and bag hacks. If you come up with a video, I'll watch. Thanks for t his one.
Here is what I did to make my fishing tools accessible: th-cam.com/video/1Ezrvs2MqFE/w-d-xo.html and I also made a rig rack: th-cam.com/video/ESR5buLSbQU/w-d-xo.html I'll have to think about the bag thing.... I'll go look at one at Home Depot today.... maybe just create the rig rack and hang the bag from it... might work!
Thanks so much for this video, I've been knocking out mounts and it works like a charm. Wish I would have seen gettinrings little tip first. Anyway, was wondering if you ever thought about melting up some HDPE plastic and pouring that in instead of epoxy? Would sure set quicker. I'd love to try it and let you know, but am afraid my little apartment might not be a good place for the fumes. Thanks again!
This is a great hack, the toilet bowl bolts did not work for me the slot in the track on my Vibe kayak is too wide. I found by using a 5/16" Stainless carriage bolt it worked perfectly. Just had to widen the hole on the bottom after the epoxy had set to allow the bolt to tighten all the way.
Here's a challenge for you that will help me. Figure out how to install a transducer that goes through a scupper hole (mine is Coosa FD) that is adjustable up and down. I just bought a side imaging fish finder and need to figure out how I can adjust the transducer deeper below the recessed area (for transducer) in my Coosa to take full advantage of the side imaging and recess it for landing and transporting the kayak.
Thanks. Am guessing those are 1" pipes. About to go buy now, and also do your rod holder trick. I bought the Feelfree lure 13.6 2016 model, and haven't been able to install anything yet. Cause the track system don't work with any thing sold around here, even Bass pro shops. If I wanna use a Yak Attack rod holder I need a special adapter costing like $30 lol. But think this idea will work for me. Thanks a lot saved me.
Buying Lew's Fishing Tournament MB Baitcast Reel, 6.7 oz./120 yd./12 lb./8.3:1 tonight on Amazon, can you recommend a good rod to go with it? Been looking for hours am stuck. Been leaning towards Lew's Fishing Speed Stick Series Rod, 7'/Medium Heavy/Moderately Fast Taper This will be used for Kayak fishing, Worms, jigs, frogs, sometimes cranks. Thanks for any help
Michael McCullough I am not a rod guy... I just buy whatever is reasonably priced. I use medium or medium heavy when fishing inshore and medium light when fishing for fresshwater bass.
When I did this, the PVC cap would not thread down far enough to catch and tighten b/c the bolt wasn't threaded the entire length. I used a plastic spacer to make up the difference and it worked just fine. I noticed that when you put this together the bolts were not threaded all the way to the end, however when you showed the finished product the threads go all the way down. I assumed you had the same problem and found a bolt that was threaded the entire length? Also, I used the bolts from Lowes with the attached washers. I just filed down the sides which actually made a more tighter fit on my Tarpon 120.
I did not have a problem using my bolts. I wonder if some of the epoxy got into your nut and kept the bolt from going all the way in. But... washers work as well!
I believe the liquid epoxy option is probably the better one. I have been using both and it is nice to see through the epoxy and know the nut is still tight.
Works great! BTW.. check out the comment from gettinrings I pinned. He has a good enhancement that makes this idea even better. Also, be sure to use a 45 degree connector in your mount like I did (see my GoPro playlist) since that will help keep the pole out of the shot.
Did you skip over why the bolts in the beginning have the non-theaded portion at the bottom, but the bolts in the last scene are threaded all the way to the "T" head of the toilet bolt? Looks like the original bolts have the possibility of bottoming out before tightening, depending on how thick your track is. I'm using the Scotty low profile. I don't think it would tighten up on it, using the first bolts.
Sorry, it was the lighting that hid the threads in the initial scene. There was reflection that blended them together. The toilet bolts have thread all the way to the head - you will see that when you pick up some.
Thanks for the update, I'll keep that in mind. Currently I have one gear head adapter and I recently ordered a transducer mount. I might try to print an adapter with my 3d printer just to see if it works well, I'll let you know how it works out.
Thank you for this video. Excellent idea! I have a tap and die set so just threaded the hole in the pvc and screwed in the toilet bolt. No nut or epoxy used. It seems sturdy this way but time will tell. I want build a 1 1/4 inch rod holder on top of a 1" mount I made by sliding a length of pvc pipe over it. I can't find a 1 1/4" reducer. Any ideas on how best to accomplish this? Thanks
You are a genius, just ordered a tamarack 100 And cant wait to apply some of your hacks, theres so many im gonna sink ......this gearhead mod is really great. Have you run across any substitute for the scotty track itself? It would be great to make custom sizes and put a few in the kayak where longer ones were not practical.....tha nks for all the mods i am subscribed and liked you...ken on CA Delta
It seems like the utility track is pretty standard. You can get square tubing at Home Depot and modify it with a lot of effort. They might have other hardware that would work better... I have not investigated... hmmmm...
All I have done is drop a 1/2 inch pipe into the mount, drill a hole thru mount and pvc and lock down with cotter pin. I'll have to look at zoffinger... have not seen his
How did you mount the other holders that are behind the one you just made?(the black triangle ones) I have one of these but never mounted it because I didn't want to drill holes in my kayak. Love your videos!
The black one is a Scotty mount. It slides into the utility track and clamps down using a special nut that I had to buy from my kayak store. You do have to bolt on the utility track.
Hmmm... Great idea. The kayak store could have had a mask on for what they charged me for six of the special slide attachments. Just cut a toilet bolt! Great idea! Put the nut on the top. You would have to see if you can tighten the nut from the top... not sure about the room for a socket.
Will this still work on the new “low-profile” plastic tracks from Scotty? I am planning to outfit my WS Pungo 120 as economically as possible until I can afford a SOT fishing yak.
Expanded PVC trim board is a great addition to your selection of DIY materials. Buy it at Lowe's in 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 8' and 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 8' boards . It can be bent with a heat gun. Cuts and drills as easy as PVC pipe. And, you can friction weld PVC pipe into it without using PVC cement (rick.sparber.org/PVC_FrictionWelding.pdf) using a few PVC pipe parts and an electric drill.
No dumb questions. The nut stays put. The epoxy holds the nut in place so you can screw the bolt into it. The nut/bolt combo is what holds the creation to the utility track.
Does option work with your Jackson larger track? In option two you mentioned that you had two different sizes on the jackson. I have the same "issue" with my big rig and did not want to go with this option if it did not work.
@@KayakhacksFishing thanks for the reply. I did try 5/16 bolts and you can rock them out of the track. Currently waiting for the poxy to dry. Thank you again
I have used 1/2, 3/4 and 1 for different purposes. The 1" will be the most robust (heavy duty) with the 3/4 being good for pretty much everything else. I would only use the 1/2 for very light applications. Also, I recommend using the 5/16 toilet bolt since it has a bigger footprint in the gear track.
Need some help. The appox I put in is approching 24 hours and its still more jell like then solid. I bought the JBweld quick setting appoxy. Any thoughts?
My only thought is that you did not get the proportions right on the two components of the epoxy. You need a 50/50 mix. If it has not set by now, you should just dig it out and start over.
+BubbaNoze Here is the link to the part on home depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-2-1-4-in-Brass-Toilet-Bolts-with-Nuts-10063X/205172289 Model # 10063X Internet # 205172289 Store SKU # 1000055100
They all match - just get the same size. The threaded section will be sold as 1 inch, 3/4, etc. Then just get the same matching threaded part - again, it will be 1 inch, 3/4, etc. The best way to make sure everything fits is to put it together in the store.
I had to use option 2 on my old town predator. Went with 1 1/4 ID PVC schedule 40. Used the 1/4 in toilet bowl kit. Put the metal washers on the inside so the nut will rest in it. Went with the threaded male cap and female adapter so I can make changes as needed. Making 4 at once to max out the epoxy. Thanks! Doc
If you use the putty method, score the bottom of the pvc on the inside with a file or a sharp knife, even scissors. The roughened and irregular surface will ensure that the putty will hold its place far longer than if the surface had been smooth.
That is a great improvement! Thanks
Agreed. Additionally, 'Gorilla' epoxy especially is the absolute worst in epoxies... Use JB Weld, but some silicon spray on the threads and let it cure for 24 hours, again after you score/sand down the internal PVC, it WILL be worth it and last forever.
I'm giving this video a 10 out of a possible 10. That's a great hack.
+Adventure Outdoors Thanks! Appreciate the endorsement. The only problem is now I have more gear heads than I can shake a stick at! Luckily, plenty of buddies to give them away to.
Just made my first one using epoxy putty. Painted black - it looks OEM! Best hack ever! Love to see what everyone is attaching to them!
PVC makes the difference in our ability to customize!
I love this hack and that you provide two different approaches. Let me add a third: heat the bolt and use it as a threading tap.
Drill the hole a little smaller than the bolt, heat the end of the bolt with a heat gun or lighter (not super hot but hot enough to soften pvc) and thread the cap onto the hot bolt. May have to heat it a second time to complete the threading. Primary thing to watch for is to make sure you keep it aligned because the bolt can get cockeyed if you're careless. If you have a tap you can do that instead, but this has worked quite well. There's enough meat there for sufficient threads to hold fast. I sized one for holding one of the manufacturer's adjustable angle rod holders (just sits down in there snugly) I carry a rod in there with some heavy rigs at a pretty flat angle and it rides like a champ.
Great idea! I discussed using at tap in another video, but your idea allows folks without a tap to achieve the same thing!
I like the idea. I'm not a kayaker, but this system could work equally well on my plastic Bass Hunter Stalker II pontoon boat, as well as, on my bass boat. You got the wheels in my brain spinning.
I think this is by far the most useful, cost effective hack I have seen for kayaks yet. Thank you for putting this out there, I am going to be making a few this weekend for my new kayak!
Steve.
See in the other comments some improvements to make the bond better. Basically, drill a few holes in addition to the center hole so the glue or epoxy putty and fill those holes. This will create a better grip on the nut. Take care!
If you drill some tiny holes half way thru the inside of the PVC fitting where you pour the epoxy it will help hold it solidly.
or you can just drill all the way thru and wrap the PVC with tape on the outside to cover the holes and pour in the epoxy,the tape will keep the epoxy from running out...........makes it very solid and will never let the nut spin !
Thanks for that enhancement!
Kayak Hacks Fishing Your welcome !! THANK YOU for the video !!!
gettinrings will any epoxy resin work?
GOOD STUFF. Beats going to BassPro or West Marine.
6 years later, still a great hack. I'll enjoy playing around this weekend with this because I can't justify $20 for a cup holder...
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
That's a great idea. I'm heading for the home center tomorrow to pick up some pvc and toilet bolts. I need another rear camera mount.
One improvement is to drill some additional holes around the center hole for the bolt. Then the epoxy can flow into those as well to create more grab. Put tape on the bottom to keep the epoxy from flowing out of the additional holes.
Made some of these using wToilet bolts wing nuts and a torch. After drilling, heat up the wing nut and pull down into the fitting. It melts it's way in and seems really stout. I did it to start and reheated to pull it to bottom. Careful that they cool vertical. If hot and laid horizontal, the bolt will pull down while cooling and get things out of perpendicular. Willl try to attach video. Ready in 5 mins. Testing them out tomorrow. FYI I am new to kayaking this summer and your channel is terrific in getting me going in the right ways.
I really appreciate this new idea! Thanks
@@KayakhacksFishing how would i get you a pic or video? Small thx for your efforts.
Send me a link to steve@kayakhacks.com
Another great DIY hack. That's a great idea, and very cheap compare to OEM. Thanks so much for this.
You bet!
Great hack!
Finding it hard to find which gear tracks fit other vendors accessories. For example: I have Scotty accessories and want to find a track with one line of holes. Like your hack for tracks, I might try that.
Maybe try woodworking T Track? th-cam.com/video/pk-0DZ-cpGQ/w-d-xo.html
I enjoy all your hacks. If you would list a parts brake down I am sure everyone would all give you a thumbs up! Doc
Good point - added - Parts:
Choose any size PVC to match the strength required.
You need a plug (slip or thread), an adapter to match your plug, a toilet bolt (or any T Bolt) and nut, and epoxy
Really cool ! Just made 4 for my Sea Ghost ! I used 45 degree fittings for sweeping rods back or out to the side. Keep the great ideas coming !
Glad you liked it! You will be able to use one with the tip that goes up on Wednesday!
Wal-Mart has the toilet bolts without the washers attached too. Only a couple dollars.
Perfect! Thanks!
Easy assembly. This unit is a very stable rod stand.
Great video. I haven't seen a depth finder mount I liked. Mounting in middle of floor is out of the question. Using this method. I can make A PVC arm that swivels out of the way. Your videos are very informative. Thanks
I would love to see a picture of it when you get it finished. Make a video if you are so inclined!
What is that I've seen you fishing out of? It's not a yak, maybe a canoe or Cajun Pirogue?
It is a Nativewatercraft Ultimate model kayak. It is basically a 1/2 canoe.
Great Idea! 10/10 Scotty gear heads are expensive. This looks like a reliable alternative. Thank you for this. Toilet bolts!!!! DUH, I knew I saw those gear head bolts somewhere before....
+Kayak Chris I was able to pick up the same bolts used on gear heads at my kayak dealer, but they are pretty expensive. I forget what I paid for two, but it was more than I wanted to spend. You have a nice channel! I will subscribe via my other account.
Thanks!
Hi, my name is Randy. I am new to kayaking, fishing for a long time thought. I have got a lot of good ideas for you, thanks. Here is my idea. I used pronged t nuts. So far so good. I drilled a hole like you did I heated the bottom of the PCV cap and drove the t nut down. Works great so far, and cheep 3 t nuts was $0.80
Have a great day and year
That is a great idea! And it improves on the idea since the T Nuts are cheaper! Thanks!
Thanks for the great video tutorial! I combined your design/method with some ideas from a Zoffinger video to make a rail mounted scotty type rod holder and a camera mount.
Which Zoffinger video? I would love to learn.
"DIY Scotty Mount from PVC". He's got a lot of good ones, It took me a couple of tries to get the dremmel work right but once I did it worked great.
Thanks!
*While this works, here is the best option:* th-cam.com/video/zQhS99EBSQU/w-d-xo.html
This hack is fantastic!! I can't wait to get these put together. Thanks for the setup!
So I just did 3 of these the night before last. They epoxy still isnt hard. It's set up and tacky. Did I do something wrong? Any suggestions?
All I can think of is you must not have blended the epoxy correctly with enough hardener.
Sir... You need more videos like this... Great hack! Thanks ....
Oh wow I’m not really handy but I think you may have solved a problem for me! Thanks for this!
Wonderful! Glad to help
How about a video on making a mount for a motor using the same track system or something on the back of the kayak for a gas motor. Appreciate your content!
lol! I would have to get a motor! Great idea and when I am old and beat up, I'll have to figure that out. I think there are a number of videos out there from other folks that discuss this if you do not want to wait for me to age!
Curious if one could cut some disks from a sheet of delrin plastic with a hole saw to act as large 'fender washers' between the rail and the hacked gear head? Innovative hack with endless options for each individual application!
I bet it would work!
You can use wing wall anchors,no need to glue and they fit the same bolt
Great tip - thx
I’m gonna do this on the rails in the truck bed for cheap rod holders
Brilliant.... but you already knew that. Thanks! 👍😉
You explained this very well. Thanks for a great tutorial!
Great hack. I'm new to kayaking and don't want to spend a ton on mounting since I'm not fishing but still like to carry gear. I'm too lazy/inept to make my own video so here's a request. I'm working on ways to use Bucket Boss - Flap Fit (or whatever brand) tool belt accessories since the kayak specific bags are so expensive. There aren't very many videos (if any) I could find combining rail hacks and bag hacks. If you come up with a video, I'll watch. Thanks for t his one.
Here is what I did to make my fishing tools accessible: th-cam.com/video/1Ezrvs2MqFE/w-d-xo.html
and I also made a rig rack: th-cam.com/video/ESR5buLSbQU/w-d-xo.html
I'll have to think about the bag thing.... I'll go look at one at Home Depot today.... maybe just create the rig rack and hang the bag from it... might work!
Actually... just thought of something that might work even better and leverage the bucket boss format. Stay tuned.
I will post a solution for you on Wednesday
Thanks so much for this video, I've been knocking out mounts and it works like a charm. Wish I would have seen gettinrings little tip first. Anyway, was wondering if you ever thought about melting up some HDPE plastic and pouring that in instead of epoxy? Would sure set quicker. I'd love to try it and let you know, but am afraid my little apartment might not be a good place for the fumes. Thanks again!
I think the HDPE would set up too fast. It does not really get fluid.
This is a great hack, the toilet bowl bolts did not work for me the slot in the track on my Vibe kayak is too wide. I found by using a 5/16" Stainless carriage bolt it worked perfectly. Just had to widen the hole on the bottom after the epoxy had set to allow the bolt to tighten all the way.
Thanks for solving the problem for wide tracks!
which Vibe do you have that was too wide? i have a Sea Ghost 130 that I want to try this on but will change to carriage bolts if needed
Here's a challenge for you that will help me. Figure out how to install a transducer that goes through a scupper hole (mine is Coosa FD) that is adjustable up and down. I just bought a side imaging fish finder and need to figure out how I can adjust the transducer deeper below the recessed area (for transducer) in my Coosa to take full advantage of the side imaging and recess it for landing and transporting the kayak.
that is a real challenge! In addition to going up and down, it has to stay straight.
@@KayakhacksFishing True, I'm thinking some kind of telescoping pipe with a cross pin slot for up/down positions
thanks for the video, I did this and it works great.
I have another idea for the same thing I am working on
Man you give me another idea thank you very much and I have plenty of PVC pipes everywhere over here ha ha
I have parts and pieces everywhere! I know what you mean!
At 3:37 to keep the bolt vertical all you need is another nut on the underside to tighten up - this will make absolutely sure the bolt is vertical
Thank you for that enhancement! I appreciate it!
Awesome video! Well made - great information! Love the out of the box thinking!
thanks!
Very useful , thanks for sharing this
Fabulous work thanks for sharing the idea and it saves me $$$$
Thanks!
Thanks. Am guessing those are 1" pipes. About to go buy now, and also do your rod holder trick. I bought the Feelfree lure 13.6 2016 model, and haven't been able to install anything yet. Cause the track system don't work with any thing sold around here, even Bass pro shops. If I wanna use a Yak Attack rod holder I need a special adapter costing like $30 lol. But think this idea will work for me. Thanks a lot saved me.
Hope it works. Yes, those were 1" pipes. I use 3/4" for my tackle holder you see in the other video.
Buying Lew's Fishing Tournament MB Baitcast Reel, 6.7 oz./120 yd./12 lb./8.3:1 tonight on Amazon, can you recommend a good rod to go with it? Been looking for hours am stuck. Been leaning towards Lew's Fishing Speed Stick Series Rod, 7'/Medium Heavy/Moderately Fast Taper This will be used for Kayak fishing, Worms, jigs, frogs, sometimes cranks. Thanks for any help
Michael McCullough I am not a rod guy... I just buy whatever is reasonably priced. I use medium or medium heavy when fishing inshore and medium light when fishing for fresshwater bass.
Just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Just the video that I was looking for! Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Im likeing you Great Videos I am a DIY person Thanks for the great Videos ,
Awesome! Thank you!
found this video extremely helpful, great job
Appreciate it!
When I did this, the PVC cap would not thread down far enough to catch and tighten b/c the bolt wasn't threaded the entire length. I used a plastic spacer to make up the difference and it worked just fine. I noticed that when you put this together the bolts were not threaded all the way to the end, however when you showed the finished product the threads go all the way down. I assumed you had the same problem and found a bolt that was threaded the entire length? Also, I used the bolts from Lowes with the attached washers. I just filed down the sides which actually made a more tighter fit on my Tarpon 120.
I did not have a problem using my bolts. I wonder if some of the epoxy got into your nut and kept the bolt from going all the way in. But... washers work as well!
Looks great! I'll be playing with this idea, thanks!
I believe the liquid epoxy option is probably the better one. I have been using both and it is nice to see through the epoxy and know the nut is still tight.
Nice vid, I'm on my way to Lowes lol. This will make a nice camera mount for sure
Works great! BTW.. check out the comment from gettinrings I pinned. He has a good enhancement that makes this idea even better. Also, be sure to use a 45 degree connector in your mount like I did (see my GoPro playlist) since that will help keep the pole out of the shot.
New subscriber, enjoying the videos.
Awesome, thank you!
Did you skip over why the bolts in the beginning have the non-theaded portion at the bottom, but the bolts in the last scene are threaded all the way to the "T" head of the toilet bolt? Looks like the original bolts have the possibility of bottoming out before tightening, depending on how thick your track is. I'm using the Scotty low profile. I don't think it would tighten up on it, using the first bolts.
Sorry, it was the lighting that hid the threads in the initial scene. There was reflection that blended them together. The toilet bolts have thread all the way to the head - you will see that when you pick up some.
Great video! I just put on a track and it could use some more attachments!
After using this for a season, the mixed epoxy holds better - I have these all over my kayak now.
Thanks for the update, I'll keep that in mind. Currently I have one gear head adapter and I recently ordered a transducer mount. I might try to print an adapter with my 3d printer just to see if it works well, I'll let you know how it works out.
Whoa! That would be interesting! Let us know!
That is SO COOL! You can cut off the top of the bolt if you want to make it smaller.
That is really neat! I added a link to it in the video description
Great idea !
Also don't forget to paint those PVC parts to protect them from UV light.
Great video I'm a treasure hunter and always looking for new ideas perfect 10 I subbed.
Thank you
Thank you for this video. Excellent idea!
I have a tap and die set so just threaded the hole in the pvc and screwed in the toilet bolt. No nut or epoxy used. It seems sturdy this way but time will tell.
I want build a 1 1/4 inch rod holder on top of a 1" mount I made by sliding a length of pvc pipe over it. I can't find a 1 1/4" reducer. Any ideas on how best to accomplish this?
Thanks
I had the same problem and I eventually found one by searching the internet. I do not have the link any longer since it was a few years ago.
Love to save money and doing DIY on my yak, nice vid and easy to follow
Works great! BTW.. check out the comment from gettinrings I pinned. He has a good enhancement that makes this idea even better.
You are a genius, just ordered a tamarack 100 And cant wait to apply some of your hacks, theres so many im gonna sink ......this gearhead mod is really great. Have you run across any substitute for the scotty track itself? It would be great to make custom sizes and put a few in the kayak where longer ones were not practical.....tha nks for all the mods i am subscribed and liked you...ken on CA Delta
It seems like the utility track is pretty standard. You can get square tubing at Home Depot and modify it with a lot of effort. They might have other hardware that would work better... I have not investigated... hmmmm...
Anyone have any idea what camera this was shot on? Looks absolutely great!
I used a GoPro Hero4
As always great idea , simple too . Set the hook brother
Very cool, well done! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Great idea.... thanks for the video!!
This trick has saved me a lot of $$$ :-)
Awesome hack, thanks a lot!!
I wonder if the toilet bolts get rusted if they are used in saltwater?
+Paul Tran PROBLY BUT SOO CHEAP
Mine are OK so far and I have been using them for months. They look like they are brass or brass plated - so they should not rust.
They are solid brass--no rust.
That's a brilliant idea.
+A.F.I. Kayak Fishing Thanks!
Just a note have you ever tried G-Flex its an awesome epoxy type glue specifically made to adhear to hdpe plastics?
No. Thanks for the tip. I need something that works on HDPE!
Brilliant , nice job on this one
Thanks! I put it to use myself making my on board tackle rack and GoPro stabilized camera mount.
Great hack!
Very nice!
Nicely done.
Thanks!
Are those the same bolts you use to go through a 2 x 4 to mount a trolling motor?
Yes, I like the 5/16 size.
Great idea! Thanks
great idea! thanks for sharing.
The ones I made have lasted and are still working
Steve - Really enjoy your videos. You have some great tips. On this video what brand of putty did you use?
+Mark Harrison I used Loctite from Home Depot. Pretty easy to use.
Great. Thanks!
Super genius!
Did you just unscrew the bolt to get the plastic wrap off?
Yes. I like this option for making these the best - th-cam.com/video/zQhS99EBSQU/w-d-xo.html
Nice video - thanks for the link
Going to try this today... wish me luck lol.
Be sure you do not use a locking nut! It will tear loose from the epoxy
@@KayakhacksFishing Yeh... I was a bit tough to turn at first but then it loosened up ... and works great.... Awesome.
What do yo do to attaché to a factory rod or other mount? Gear heads are use for other than attaching to pvc.
True... but you can make a lot of things out of PVC. Just search for pvc kayak hacks
The old town slots are 1/4 in.
Thanks for that insight.
i mellt the nut into the pvc. lflared nuts are best.. also, ee valley tools sells t nuts and t bolts. 1/4' or5/16'. thas also where i get my t track.
Great idea on melting it into the pvc. That will make sure it does not spin if the epoxy breaks loose.
Kick ass!! Thank you
Have you figured out any way to make a mount post that would fit into a "Scotty" base?
check out Zoffinger's page. He made one with PVC using a dremel
+Heath Holland Thanks, I have seen his.
All I have done is drop a 1/2 inch pipe into the mount, drill a hole thru mount and pvc and lock down with cotter pin. I'll have to look at zoffinger... have not seen his
Any cheap way of making the track? It is so expensive to buy the track rails themselves. Like $30 per foot here in Aus.
lol! I saw your other comment. Thanks for finding the channel.
How did you mount the other holders that are behind the one you just made?(the black triangle ones) I have one of these but never mounted it because I didn't want to drill holes in my kayak. Love your videos!
The black one is a Scotty mount. It slides into the utility track and clamps down using a special nut that I had to buy from my kayak store. You do have to bolt on the utility track.
Kayak Hacks Fishing I have the track mounted from the factory. Never seen a way to mount it to the track. I wonder if they have shorter toilet screws.
Hmmm... Great idea. The kayak store could have had a mask on for what they charged me for six of the special slide attachments. Just cut a toilet bolt! Great idea! Put the nut on the top. You would have to see if you can tighten the nut from the top... not sure about the room for a socket.
Will this still work on the new “low-profile” plastic tracks from Scotty? I am planning to outfit my WS Pungo 120 as economically as possible until I can afford a SOT fishing yak.
I do not know - I do not have one of those. I would think so, but you need to take a bolt to the store and see.
Expanded PVC trim board is a great addition to your selection of DIY materials. Buy it at Lowe's in 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 8' and 3/8" x 1 1/2" x 8' boards . It can be bent with a heat gun. Cuts and drills as easy as PVC pipe. And, you can friction weld PVC pipe into it without using PVC cement (rick.sparber.org/PVC_FrictionWelding.pdf) using a few PVC pipe parts and an electric drill.
Thanks for the link. I downloaded the file to study.
Great video just one question may be a dumb one but what did you do with the nut after the epoxy dried?
No dumb questions. The nut stays put. The epoxy holds the nut in place so you can screw the bolt into it. The nut/bolt combo is what holds the creation to the utility track.
Used gorilla epoxy mixed it pretty 24 hours still didn’t set the nut twisted right off
That is odd. It should have set up after that time. Maybe try this method - th-cam.com/video/aLhl0CWM67s/w-d-xo.html
Any chance you got anything for a feel free rail system?
No, not yet....
@@KayakhacksFishing killing me smalls
Nice hack!
Does option work with your Jackson larger track? In option two you mentioned that you had two different sizes on the jackson. I have the same "issue" with my big rig and did not want to go with this option if it did not work.
I have two PVC gear heads on my Coosa and used the toilet bolts as described in this video since they fit both sizes.
@@KayakhacksFishing thanks for the reply. I did try 5/16 bolts and you can rock them out of the track. Currently waiting for the poxy to dry. Thank you again
Awesome! Subscribed
I really appreciate that! I'll work even harder!
What size PVC coupler did you use to mount your brass toilet fitting bolt through? 1 inch?
I have used 1/2, 3/4 and 1 for different purposes. The 1" will be the most robust (heavy duty) with the 3/4 being good for pretty much everything else. I would only use the 1/2 for very light applications. Also, I recommend using the 5/16 toilet bolt since it has a bigger footprint in the gear track.
Thanks- I got the 1" PVC and the 5/16 bolt.
Cuivre Should be perfect for pretty much anything.
Sounds like Larry Potterfield haaaa, great tip thanks
lol! Usually, people say I sound like Hank Hill
Need some help. The appox I put in is approching 24 hours and its still more jell like then solid. I bought the JBweld quick setting appoxy. Any thoughts?
My only thought is that you did not get the proportions right on the two components of the epoxy. You need a 50/50 mix. If it has not set by now, you should just dig it out and start over.
What's that Everbilt part number? (for the t-bolt). Can't quite make it out.
+BubbaNoze Here is the link to the part on home depot:
www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-2-1-4-in-Brass-Toilet-Bolts-with-Nuts-10063X/205172289
Model # 10063X Internet # 205172289 Store SKU # 1000055100
+Kayak Hacks Fishing thanks, and that's hilarious -- toilet bolts!
BubbaNoze Buy new ones to make this! :-)
tank´s ,i will do by my self too
What size is the bottom outside tread piece.
They all match - just get the same size. The threaded section will be sold as 1 inch, 3/4, etc. Then just get the same matching threaded part - again, it will be 1 inch, 3/4, etc. The best way to make sure everything fits is to put it together in the store.