You are a good teacher. A lot of people try to impress us with how fast they can do things,that usually results in a half assed job. Keep up the good presentations.
New to the hobby and this is exactly what I needed to see as I’m making a cable in the morning. Excellent!! All YT instructional videos should be done this way.
This is exactly what I needed. I'm a new ham, new to soldering, trying to build some antenna projects. I picked up these parts based on the recommendation of the salesperson, but was counting on the internet to tell me what to do with them! Thank you.
VERY good demonstration. I do however, usually tighten the UG-176 connector a tiny bit using two pairs of pliers, one on the UG-176 and one on the body of the connector, to help ensure mechanical integrity and electrical conductivity between the two components. After completing all soldering I use a small copper brush to clean and polish the center pin. I find a "third hand" device to be very helpful. I was pleased to see you use a damp sponge to clean your soldering tip, that you tinned your tip, and finally, that you examined it visually, and especially, that you tested it with your ohm meter. Excellent video. Do please aldo explain to techs who don't know that there is also a UG-175 adapter, in addition to the 176, and do please explain when and where, with what types of coax, each one is used, as I do frequently encounter those who neither know that both exist, and, when and where to use which. Thanks! Subbed and liked!
Nice video. I had to dismantle my ham station 3 years ago when my home flooded and I'm finally getting around to reassembling it. I'm out of practice on soldering and this video gave some good tips. As soon as my coax and connectors get here, I'm going to give it a try.
Glad to see someone else uses whatever material he has around to get the job done, instead of high end cable strippers, vice grippers with adjustable arms, etc. Wondering why no flux?
EXcellent presentation! Clear, concise, perfect technique with excellent brief explanations and no annoying background music. Giving the correct reducer (ug176)for RG8x coax for a PL239 connector was very helpful and the max-gain systems explanation references only the highest quality of connectors. W5VHY
Excellent instructional video !!! Glad to know "someone" out there knows how to present an instructional video that is actually easy to understand and follow, and CORRECT as well, congrats !!! Thanks, KF5LSN .........
Thanks! Just what I was looking for! I was looking at my reducers for my RG-58U coax, and couldn't see any solder holes. Stripping the coax shield and flipping it back onto the reducer was the answer!
Great Video! I would however use a damp paper towel to cool the connector body after soldering. Also, clean up any excess solder on the connector body with a knife or brush.
Wow, the detail in your video is amazing. I could see everything so clear watching it in HD. What did you film it on? I bought several PL-259 connectors from you guys at the last Hamfest I saw you guys at and they work GREAT! I left you guys a great review on EHAM also. Its so nice having a group of guys like you in this hobby. Thanks again!
The silver plating is really the key to getting a hot solder joint against a mass that's more than the iron can heat. It's something missing in most newer PL-259s. A Teflon dielectric makes this about the best possible choice just in case your iron isn't hot enough to grab the silver right away. I'll take a dozen of these. Where do I order?
Tin your reducer where the shield will locate and clean the flux off with Isopropyl Alcohol before you put it on the coax, makes for a better 360 degree wick and just a bit of solder to secure the joint. Use some small shrink tube about 1/3rd the length of your center conductor around the center conductor and center dielectric where it meets the shield to keep any stray shield wires from contacting the center conductor. You will have a strong electrical, mechanical and water tight connection...water tight after you put high quality shrink tube over the area where the coax comes in to the reducer.
appreciate the video !! Had to do this myself with the identical fitting and cable and had very high SWR readings when I was done with my original method .. ! I did it right with the exception of soldering the shielding part .... ....lol Working great now thank you once again for the vid !
As a retired engineering/tech at several local bureaus of America's largest broadcast network, I've probably done a thousand or more of these. Here's a couple of additional tips: When soldering the braid, hold the iron (preferably 25 w.) in/on the first hole for at least 60-90 seconds. BE PATIENT!! Then remove the iron and allow the heated connector to do the melting of the solder. Repeat with other holes allowing approximately 30 seconds in/on the hole with the iron (it's already fairly hot). Again, do not apply the solder until the iron has been removed. This way there's absolutely no chance of a cold joint. After connecting the first PL-259 to one end of the coax, strip an inch or so at the other end and split the center conductor from the shield before you test the first connector with an ohmmeter. Occasionally even a clean cut will cause the center conductor and shield to short. Obviously the end you first prepared will not be shorted (hopefully), so you only need to do this once, at the second end -- but be sure and test both connectors after you have soldered the second one, shield to shield and tip to tip for continuity, and shield to tip to insure there is no short. I use the "helping hands" to hold the work. It works better than having the coax "flop" around the work bench.
A larger soldering iron might be advisable for a cheaper-type connector such as nickel-plated varieties with low-temp dielectric, but the size iron shown works extremely well with our silver-plated Teflon dielectric PL-259 connectors. Teflon dielectric also has the advantage of never melting regardless of how long you stay on the work with the iron. NOTE You can see our connector "torture test" by searching TH-cam for PL-259 prototype testing.
I' m new in the radioamateur section. Does the pl 259 connect with all hf transceivers? Eg kenwood ts430, yaesu ft 757ts? I want to put this connector on RG58 coax.
The problem with using the PL259 and adapter is they provide very little strain relief. The soldered center conductor will ultimately provide the strain relief. Which is not ideal.
Just got a wilson 5000 magnet mount and I put a meter on the outer shell of the connector just like in this video and mine beeped just wow during if they missed it up from factory
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I am about to order some connectors and some RG8x. The Wireman site truly sucks as it is very plain with very little pictures.
Hi Robert! We appreciate the comments and interest in the products. Their website is a little difficult to navigate, but their people are fantastic. If you need any coax from them, call them and ask for Deborah. She is VERY knowledgeable. Thank you!
no matter whose video i follow, the pin expands, and sometimes gets stuck in the female connector. Then when pulling it out, the entire teflon pops out of the shell. I am not even applying that much heat to solder it, a very short time, and even tried a torch, just touched to the end for a few seconds.
I bought some of these. Easier than the big RG-8 style, but 1) there's no real strain relief since the adapter doesn't offer any, and 2) the shield is not held against the adapter by anything other than whatever few strands happen to be under a hole when it gets soldered. I'm surprised the shield connection isn't intermittent. It seems to me that the only thing holding the connector onto the cable is the single solder connection of the center lead. I'll use them since I paid for them, but I wouldn't want to stake my life on this design.
I tried to solder the tip, but it cold soldered. The solder wouldn’t melt and the iron wouldn’t heat the wire up. What am I doing wrong? I realized that I didn’t use flux, but the iron still wouldn’t heat the wire and the solder took a lot of pressure to melt on the tip. The iron tip also wouldn’t tin. What am I doing wrong?
TH-cam does not allow longer comments... continuing from above>>> In some 55 years of putting on PL's I have never seen one arc at RF if it passed the ohmmeter test, not to say that is not possible. While we have equipment to high-voltage test (hipot) to 60 kv in our lab, it has just never proven necessary (other than when torture-testing our prototypes to failure. They did GREAT!)
Thanks for the fantastic video! Is this the "universal" connector for a CB radio? I'm very new at all of this I bought a used Cobra 29LTD Classic with a 100 foot cable when i only need about 40 feet. I can receive signals like nothing else but when i transmit its nothing but static. I would like to shorten the cable I'm using between my antenna and radio in hopes that it will solve or help the problem. I have a SWR meter also but that doesn't seem to be helping with anything. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, the PL-259 is the standard CB radio connector. All cable has inherent loss, so shorter is always better. Make sure it is good quality cable. If you tune the antenna to the center of the CB band to as close to 1:1 SWR as you can get, you should be able to transmit good. If not, you might suspect that the radio finals are damaged from whoever had it before. There are lots of good videos on TH-cam that explain antenna tuning. Good Luck! Eric W1ECM
Hello! Their site is difficult which is why we recommend giving them a call. Talking to Deborah will get what you need and quickly in most cases. The reducers can be purchased individually (P/N 7508-S) or with a PL-259 (P/N 7500-8X). Thank you!
***** Should be able to solder almost anything. It's a little hot for the smaller stuff, but just move quickly. Good quality UHF connectors will withstand the heat, junk connectors will melt the dielectric. Don't use $0.25 connectors on your $200 antenna!
If you don't have a small vise it helps if you lay the diagonal cutters where the PL-259 may lay in the notch & not move around when you are soldering.Also I only solder the lower holes what have braid showing thru them.That is my personal method.I also use liquid flux in every location that I will be applying solder. {:>)
I'm hoping that connector is for demonstration purposes only. You violated your own instructions by leaving several strands of the center conductor in the dielectric that you removed from the coax. it's been a long time since I made cables for radios that fly in Air Force planes. This is a good refresher to my SAC soldering course of 40+ years ago. I agree with the others who say that the iron you are using needs to be more wattage and a bigger tip. Back in the day we never soldered the braid and they worked just fine in the stressful environment of a military plane. To be a proper test though you should use your ohm meter on the highest setting as well. Not all shorts read zero.
I know this video is ancient now, and no-one read the comments anyway, but I had to add my 2 cents to this clip. You probably ruined your cable soldering the braid. It would have gotten hot enough that the dielectric would break down and your expensive cable would be a pile of crap. And the solder blobs you added are NOT going to stop the cable and connector coming apart any better than just soldering the centre conductor does. I have used these connectors in many places and they are fine with just the centre soldered. There are FAR better connectors available now.
Nice video but the soldering iron (tip) that you're using is way too small. Looks like you've edited the time it takes to flow solder into the holes. The dielectric is melting while the connector gets hot enough to flow solder, and although your resistance test is good, it is only good for the low voltage of your multi-tester and not real rf voltages when you're running 100 watts or more. Arcing is a real possibility. Solder flow should occur within a few seconds or melting will occur.
Make sure you use an iron with plenty of horsepower so the heat doesn’t stay on it too long. You heat it for too long and you will cremate the dielectric
Disappointing video because you edited it and obscured the amount of time the iron needed to be on the connector to reach flow temperature. That's probably the most critical part, and people need to see that. You've also not answered questions about what wattage iron is used.
You are a good teacher. A lot of people try to impress us with how fast they can do things,that usually results in a half assed job. Keep up the good presentations.
Wonderfully produced, clear video, Great narrative and NO OBNOXIOUS Music background! Thank you!
Hi Dan! We will use your comments for future instructional videos. Thank you!
Thanks for this. Its been well over a decade (maybe closer to two) since Ive installed these so I figured a refresher was in order
New to the hobby and this is exactly what I needed to see as I’m making a cable in the morning. Excellent!! All YT instructional videos should be done this way.
This is exactly what I needed. I'm a new ham, new to soldering, trying to build some antenna projects. I picked up these parts based on the recommendation of the salesperson, but was counting on the internet to tell me what to do with them! Thank you.
VERY good demonstration. I do however, usually tighten the UG-176 connector a tiny bit using two pairs of pliers, one on the UG-176 and one on the body of the connector, to help ensure mechanical integrity and electrical conductivity between the two components. After completing all soldering I use a small copper brush to clean and polish the center pin. I find a "third hand" device to be very helpful. I was pleased to see you use a damp sponge to clean your soldering tip, that you tinned your tip, and finally, that you examined it visually, and especially, that you tested it with your ohm meter. Excellent video.
Do please aldo explain to techs who don't know that there is also a UG-175 adapter, in addition to the 176, and do please explain when and where, with what types of coax, each one is used, as I do frequently encounter those who neither know that both exist, and, when and where to use which. Thanks! Subbed and liked!
+1, I like to toghten the adapter, and i tinn the center conductor so it does take auite as long to somder the end...
GREAT VIDEO!
I know it’s 11 years later, but really appreciate the video!
Excellent video. Clear, concise detailed instructions on the installation of a PL-259 connector onto RG8X coaxial cable.
It's been so long I felt the need for a refresher, thanks :-)
Nice video. I had to dismantle my ham station 3 years ago when my home flooded and I'm finally getting around to reassembling it. I'm out of practice on soldering and this video gave some good tips. As soon as my coax and connectors get here, I'm going to give it a try.
Glad to see someone else uses whatever material he has around to get the job done, instead of high end cable strippers, vice grippers with adjustable arms, etc. Wondering why no flux?
Best PL-259 to RG-8X soldering instructional video out there! Thanks.
0 fluff! Nice work! Had to take 15' of coax off my boat antenna... just tested it and the radio sounds great! Thanks!
EXcellent presentation! Clear, concise, perfect technique with excellent brief explanations and no annoying background music. Giving the correct reducer (ug176)for RG8x coax for a PL239 connector was very helpful and the max-gain systems explanation references only the highest quality of connectors. W5VHY
Nice video. One thing though. Use a small bench vise or better yet a Panavice for holding the barrel while soldering. Makes soldering so much easier.
Excellent instructional video !!! Glad to know "someone" out there knows how to present an instructional video that is actually easy to understand and follow, and CORRECT as well, congrats !!! Thanks, KF5LSN .........
Did you use rosin-core solder? How many watts do you recommend the iron provide?
BTW: This is the best PL-259 connector installation on TH-cam.
Thanks! Just what I was looking for! I was looking at my reducers for my RG-58U coax, and couldn't see any solder holes. Stripping the coax shield and flipping it back onto the reducer was the answer!
well done! Great production quality too. Time to get soldering myself :)
Both the narration and the video quality are tops! Thanks!!
I appreciate that you actually showed how to perform the steps instead of just saying "solder the connector" or "cut the insulation".
Perfect instructions. Had me up and running in no time! Thanks.
Great video! Clear, concise instructions and very thorough!
This was an excellent tutorial. It had been years since I had soldered a PL-259. My only problem now is bad eyesight and shaky hands.
Great video, thanks! BTW it's a good idea to test for shorts before soldering :)
bratan007 also the @ 1:15 ...The conductor should be cut at 3/16 not 1/8
Where’s the shrink wrap?
My.02
This is a great video. We will need to get some of your connectors and some wire from the Wireman to make some how-to videos for our channel!
Best vid yet for this installation.
Great Video! I would however use a damp paper towel to cool the connector body after soldering. Also, clean up any excess solder on the connector body with a knife or brush.
Wow, the detail in your video is amazing. I could see everything so clear watching it in HD. What did you film it on? I bought several PL-259 connectors from you guys at the last Hamfest I saw you guys at and they work GREAT! I left you guys a great review on EHAM also. Its so nice having a group of guys like you in this hobby. Thanks again!
Thank you for this. Clear, concise, helpful.
The silver plating is really the key to getting a hot solder joint against a mass that's more than the iron can heat. It's something missing in most newer PL-259s. A Teflon dielectric makes this about the best possible choice just in case your iron isn't hot enough to grab the silver right away. I'll take a dozen of these. Where do I order?
Nicely done, clear, no wasted time. Excellent!
Tin your reducer where the shield will locate and clean the flux off with Isopropyl Alcohol before you put it on the coax, makes for a better 360 degree wick and just a bit of solder to secure the joint. Use some small shrink tube about 1/3rd the length of your center conductor around the center conductor and center dielectric where it meets the shield to keep any stray shield wires from contacting the center conductor. You will have a strong electrical, mechanical and water tight connection...water tight after you put high quality shrink tube over the area where the coax comes in to the reducer.
Thanks for a very good and easy to understand video. Excellent!!
excellent video. I have never done this before and my first attempt was successful.
thanks for the effort.
Thank you for posting this! Greatly appreciated.
appreciate the video !! Had to do this myself with the identical fitting and cable and had very high SWR readings when I was done with my original method .. !
I did it right with the exception of soldering the shielding part .... ....lol
Working great now thank you once again for the vid !
Great video! Just what I needed to finish up an antenna installation.
Montage du PL-259 simplement magnifique !
Thanks for the vid! Best on youtube on how to do this!
As a retired engineering/tech at several local bureaus of America's largest broadcast network, I've probably done a thousand or more of these.
Here's a couple of additional tips: When soldering the braid, hold the iron (preferably 25 w.) in/on the first hole for at least 60-90 seconds. BE PATIENT!! Then remove the iron and allow the heated connector to do the melting of the solder. Repeat with other holes allowing approximately 30 seconds in/on the hole with the iron (it's already fairly hot). Again, do not apply the solder until the iron has been removed. This way there's absolutely no chance of a cold joint.
After connecting the first PL-259 to one end of the coax, strip an inch or so at the other end and split the center conductor from the shield before you test the first connector with an ohmmeter. Occasionally even a clean cut will cause the center conductor and shield to short. Obviously the end you first prepared will not be shorted (hopefully), so you only need to do this once, at the second end -- but be sure and test both connectors after you have soldered the second one, shield to shield and tip to tip for continuity, and shield to tip to insure there is no short.
I use the "helping hands" to hold the work. It works better than having the coax "flop" around the work bench.
A larger soldering iron might be advisable for a cheaper-type connector such as nickel-plated varieties with low-temp dielectric, but the size iron shown works extremely well with our silver-plated Teflon dielectric PL-259 connectors. Teflon dielectric also has the advantage of never melting regardless of how long you stay on the work with the iron. NOTE You can see our connector "torture test" by searching TH-cam for PL-259 prototype testing.
The PL connector may withstand the heat but not the coax inside
Thanks for the video. Is the soldering iron on a constant on temp, or is it set to a specific temperature?
Saved me, was especially worried about a short from the shielding on the insulation against the base of the pin.
I' m new in the radioamateur section. Does the pl 259 connect with all hf transceivers? Eg kenwood ts430, yaesu ft 757ts? I want to put this connector on RG58 coax.
Eushta é a forma correta de colocar o conector , Very good teacher .
ty. Just fixed my vhf antenna. Much appreciated!
The problem with using the PL259 and adapter is they provide very little strain relief. The soldered center conductor will ultimately provide the strain relief. Which is not ideal.
Nice video1 Who is the manufacturer of the PL-259 connector?
é a forma correta de colocar o conector , Very good teacher .
What kind of solder do you use?
Just got a wilson 5000 magnet mount and I put a meter on the outer shell of the connector just like in this video and mine beeped just wow during if they missed it up from factory
Very useful video. It is understandable also without the audio comment.
Outstanding video!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I am about to order some connectors and some RG8x. The Wireman site truly sucks as it is very plain with very little pictures.
Hi Robert! We appreciate the comments and interest in the products. Their website is a little difficult to navigate, but their people are fantastic. If you need any coax from them, call them and ask for Deborah. She is VERY knowledgeable. Thank you!
The Wireman has a telephone & they make some of the best products available so it's worth making the phone call.
Always TEST newly purchased coaxial & connectors
no matter whose video i follow, the pin expands, and sometimes gets stuck in the female connector. Then when pulling it out, the entire teflon pops out of the shell. I am not even applying that much heat to solder it, a very short time, and even tried a torch, just touched to the end for a few seconds.
I bought some of these. Easier than the big RG-8 style, but 1) there's no real strain relief since the adapter doesn't offer any, and 2) the shield is not held against the adapter by anything other than whatever few strands happen to be under a hole when it gets soldered. I'm surprised the shield connection isn't intermittent. It seems to me that the only thing holding the connector onto the cable is the single solder connection of the center lead. I'll use them since I paid for them, but I wouldn't want to stake my life on this design.
Can you provide a link for the reducer. The keep sending ones that are to small for rg8x.
You want a part# UG-176 not UG-175. 176 is for RG8X, it's slightly larger.
The problem i was having was i had RG8X and kept buying rg8 reducers. Theres a miniscule difference in diameter.
I tried to solder the tip, but it cold soldered. The solder wouldn’t melt and the iron wouldn’t heat the wire up. What am I doing wrong? I realized that I didn’t use flux, but the iron still wouldn’t heat the wire and the solder took a lot of pressure to melt on the tip. The iron tip also wouldn’t tin. What am I doing wrong?
TH-cam does not allow longer comments... continuing from above>>> In some 55 years of putting on PL's I have never seen one arc at RF if it passed the ohmmeter test, not to say that is not possible. While we have equipment to high-voltage test (hipot) to 60 kv in our lab, it has just never proven necessary (other than when torture-testing our prototypes to failure. They did GREAT!)
Thanks for the fantastic video! Is this the "universal" connector for a CB radio? I'm very new at all of this I bought a used Cobra 29LTD Classic with a 100 foot cable when i only need about 40 feet. I can receive signals like nothing else but when i transmit its nothing but static. I would like to shorten the cable I'm using between my antenna and radio in hopes that it will solve or help the problem. I have a SWR meter also but that doesn't seem to be helping with anything. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, the PL-259 is the standard CB radio connector. All cable has inherent loss, so shorter is always better. Make sure it is good quality cable. If you tune the antenna to the center of the CB band to as close to 1:1 SWR as you can get, you should be able to transmit good. If not, you might suspect that the radio finals are damaged from whoever had it before. There are lots of good videos on TH-cam that explain antenna tuning. Good Luck! Eric W1ECM
Check your SWR on channel one and channel 40. Adjust your antenna length so they are equal.
Fantastic job. Thank you!
Thankyou, this video has been most helpfu
Thanks for the help. Worked great.
How many watts is the soldering iron?
I use a 220 watt Weller soldering GUN!
Excellent instructions. Thank you so much.
The wireman site does not really give you any idea what to order or how to order it. Do I order a reducer or does it come with it?
Hello! Their site is difficult which is why we recommend giving them a call. Talking to Deborah will get what you need and quickly in most cases. The reducers can be purchased individually (P/N 7508-S) or with a PL-259 (P/N 7500-8X). Thank you!
Yeah I tried this and could not get the solder to melt into the holes. It kept sticking to my iron.
Maybe a silly question, but what type of pipe solder, or whatever the metal being melted is called, should I use. Get video BTW!
Rosin Core solder is what you want to use. Pipe solder is probably Acid Core which is NOT what you want to use with anything electronic. Good Luck!
Thanks for the vid. Good job. 👍
Well done
EXCELLENT👍🏻👍🏻
excellent video.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!👍
VERY helpful - thanks !!!
very nice
My connector UG176 came with 2 little washer inside
thanks for comments! We are working on vids for other cable types in the near future
Part numbers would be nice.
awesome
i have a 45 watt soldering iron would that work for any type of connector?
***** Should be able to solder almost anything. It's a little hot for the smaller stuff, but just move quickly. Good quality UHF connectors will withstand the heat, junk connectors will melt the dielectric. Don't use $0.25 connectors on your $200 antenna!
If you don't have a small vise it helps if you lay the diagonal cutters where the PL-259 may lay in the notch & not move around when you are soldering.Also I only solder the lower holes what have braid showing thru them.That is my personal method.I also use liquid flux in every location that I will be applying solder. {:>)
Nice! Thanks for the help.
I USE A RADIO SHACK BLUNT TIP RATHER THAN A POINTED TIP I CHECK IT WITH A 50 OHM LOAD FOR SWR GOOD VIDEO KG6MN
Blunt tip will work just fine. Whatever gets the heat to the work is what counts. The 50 Ohm load is another way to check it, sure. Thanks!
You need a third hand block.
So you don't need flux?
A little flux would be a good idea
I'm hoping that connector is for demonstration purposes only. You violated your own instructions by leaving several strands of the center conductor in the dielectric that you removed from the coax. it's been a long time since I made cables for radios that fly in Air Force planes. This is a good refresher to my SAC soldering course of 40+ years ago. I agree with the others who say that the iron you are using needs to be more wattage and a bigger tip. Back in the day we never soldered the braid and they worked just fine in the stressful environment of a military plane. To be a proper test though you should use your ohm meter on the highest setting as well. Not all shorts read zero.
I know this video is ancient now, and no-one read the comments anyway, but I had to add my 2 cents to this clip. You probably ruined your cable soldering the braid. It would have gotten hot enough that the dielectric would break down and your expensive cable would be a pile of crap. And the solder blobs you added are NOT going to stop the cable and connector coming apart any better than just soldering the centre conductor does. I have used these connectors in many places and they are fine with just the centre soldered. There are FAR better connectors available now.
Nice video but the soldering iron (tip) that you're using is way too small. Looks like you've edited the time it takes to flow solder into the holes. The dielectric is melting while the connector gets hot enough to flow solder, and although your resistance test is good, it is only good for the low voltage of your multi-tester and not real rf voltages when you're running 100 watts or more. Arcing is a real possibility. Solder flow should occur within a few seconds or melting will occur.
Yes... I have literally melted dialectric TRYING to get the connector hot enough to flow solder.
Dan Shankle is why I am a crimp man, now.
That reducer looks too big for that coax.
You didn't actually have your meter on the lowest setting. But that didn't really matter much.
HA! You are right. Do as I say, not as I do? Thanks Richard
Not having a dedicated coax stripping plier makes this process much more tedious and lengthy
Make sure you use an iron with plenty of horsepower so the heat doesn’t stay on it too long. You heat it for too long and you will cremate the dielectric
did you realize you weren't on the lowest setting... you were on 2000 not 200
you need to heat more so the solder flows .not just over the holes
Disappointing video because you edited it and obscured the amount of time the iron needed to be on the connector to reach flow temperature. That's probably the most critical part, and people need to see that. You've also not answered questions about what wattage iron is used.
Oh cmon! Can't you spend 20 to 30 minutes screwing around and doing it wrong like all the other videos?!
Not professional
é a forma correta de colocar o conector , Very good teacher .