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How to fit PL259 connector for Coax (Warning: read description below)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2024
- Find more here: messi.it/en/catalogue.htm
WARNING: We have made a tutorial for those who use standard PL259 connectors, although we highly recommend our new generation ones with double sealing that ensures a better protection against infiltration of water, humidity and condensation.
Some of you, based on old habits, matured in the old days of RG 213/U and RG8, (made with compact Polyethylene and 66% velocity ratio),
WILL OBJECT THAT WE HAVE NOT WELDED THE BRAID.
WELL WE DID IT DELIBERATELY!
From studies carried out, we have in fact experienced that in order to be able to weld the tin on the external hole of the PL 259 type connector, it is necessary to bring the temperature of the connector itself to about 300°C. This certainly does not damage the Teflon of a good quality connector, but can easily deform the expanded Polyethylene dielectrics which melt at 100-110 degrees C.
To give you excellent impedance stability an optimized VSWR, and exciting attenuations, M&P dedicates great efforts to maintain the tolerances of the dielectric diameters within a few hundredths of a millimeter.
Therefore, bringing the connector to about 300 ° C, to continue an old tradition, means giving up the very high performance of ANY modern expanded Polyethylene coaxial cable, with a velocity ratio of 84-87%. (depending on the models).
OBVIOUSLY WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THESE OLD GENERATION CONNECTORS!
We strongly recommend the Messi & Paoloni watertight compression connectors, specifically designed to take full advantage of our products, reduce the risks of thermal stress, while maintaining the exceptional shielding efficiency typical of all our models.
COAXIAL CABLES and CONNECTORS: messi.it/en/catalogue.htm
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This Is The Way I Have Made My Coax & Jumpers For Years Now & I Never Had A Problem with Them..As Long as you Use Good Quality Teflon Pl259's & I Put The Fire in The Wire as They Say....Nothing To Big but around 4-5 kw an like i said it Works Really Well...But You Must Use Really Good Connectors It Is Very Important...Especially if you are going to run a little Extra get up n go ! I Learned From Experience that the old Farts that like /say to solder the braid was just wrong in doing so ..i love the old timers for their Skills an admire them for the things they used to half to do but Time Changes & Tech Always ALWAYS Improves & now We have not had to solder the braid for years now thanks to Good Quality Coax & Connectors.. I Only Use Messi & Paoloni Coax (Hyperflex 10 & Their Evo Connectors
I use the PL259 plug that has the brown plastic or what ever it's made of the i use my dremel with a tiny diamond bit and ruff up inside the centre of the plug in side so when I solder it got some to grip to all the holes I grind inside and around the channel to the next hole I grind the hole channel for soldering.the coax i unpick it with a big needle and I don't cut any for the minute fold the coax back then get the centre wire ready be for screwing on the plug fit heatshrink and the other part of the PL259 then screw on the plug tight until it's fill right on solder the tip and solder the holes I do use a very little flux when all soldered screw on the PL259 and then trim any left over coax braid then heat the heat shrink tubing All done wipe all the plug for flux the wipe with dry cloth
Would it be a good idea to put dielectric grease into the side holes ?
Assuming one end inside and one side outside, how long before the unsoldered copper braid, on the outside of the shack, starts to oxidize and cause problems?
If you want to see your braid always shining after years of intense use I advise:
1)Buy one of our Extraflex Bury series cables,
2)Buy our Professional grade connectors,
UHF EVO, or N type
3) Use our M&P-Silicone-Seal
The Extra flex Bury series has a Tough Polyethylene jacket and a layer of Petrol Jelly over the braid, and in conjunction with the special UHF EVO compression connectors+ the extra Silicone seal gasket, assure an amazing life span. Additionally, they sport a great trampling resistance too, if needed.
If the flexibility of the Extraflex bury series is not enough for you, the compromise of PVC jacket cables, such as our Ultraflex and hyperflex series is a viable choice. They excel for flexibility and overall performance, but any cable with PVC jacket is more prone if buried inside a pipe, to be soaked with water created by condensation. Always make sure if you use PVC jacket cables, that they stay well away from stagnant water, and never buried or trampled upon. The use of new generation connectors with compression gasket is paramount, (they also have a far better SA and insertion loss). Moreover, the M&P Silicone-seal, is the icing upon the cake.
What make/model is that sissors you use? thanks KC2AGT
Hello Sir! You can find the scissors here: messi.it/en/catalogue/accessories/special-coax-scissors.htm
yeah, those little holes are supposed to be soldered too! this doesn’t even show braid at the hole.
Some of you, based on old habits, matured in the old days of RG 213/U and RG8, (made with compact Polyethylene and 66% velocity ratio),
WILL OBJECT THAT WE HAVE NOT WELDED THE BRAID.
WELL WE DID IT DELIBERATELY!
From studies carried out, we have in fact experienced that in order to be able to weld the tin on the external hole of the PL 259 type connector, it is necessary to bring the temperature of the connector itself to about 300°C. This certainly does not damage the Teflon of a good quality connector, but can easily deform the expanded Polyethylene dielectrics which melt at 100-110 degrees C.
To give you excellent impedance stability an optimized VSWR, and exciting attenuations, M&P dedicates great efforts to maintain the tolerances of the dielectric diameters within a few hundredths of a millimeter.
Therefore, bringing the connector to about 300 ° C, to continue an old tradition, means giving up the very high performance of ANY modern expanded Polyethylene coaxial cable, with a velocity ratio of 84-87%. (depending on the models).
OBVIOUSLY WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THESE OLD GENERATION CONNECTORS!
We strongly recommend the Messi & Paoloni watertight compression connectors, specifically designed to take full advantage of our products, reduce the risks of thermal stress, while maintaining the exceptional shielding efficiency typical of all our models.
There is absolutely no need to solder the holes in the body of the plug and it's bad practise IMO. All it does is risk melting and deforming the dielectric insulation.
You have a hole to solder some of the braid. Why didn't you?
Some of you, based on old habits, matured in the old days of RG 213/U and RG8, (made with compact Polyethylene and 66% velocity ratio),
WILL OBJECT THAT WE HAVE NOT WELDED THE BRAID.
WELL WE DID IT DELIBERATELY!
From studies carried out, we have in fact experienced that in order to be able to weld the tin on the external hole of the PL 259 type connector, it is necessary to bring the temperature of the connector itself to about 300°C. This certainly does not damage the Teflon of a good quality connector, but can easily deform the expanded Polyethylene dielectrics which melt at 100-110 degrees C.
To give you excellent impedance stability an optimized VSWR, and exciting attenuations, M&P dedicates great efforts to maintain the tolerances of the dielectric diameters within a few hundredths of a millimeter.
Therefore, bringing the connector to about 300 ° C, to continue an old tradition, means giving up the very high performance of ANY modern expanded Polyethylene coaxial cable, with a velocity ratio of 84-87%. (depending on the models).
OBVIOUSLY WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THESE OLD GENERATION CONNECTORS!
We strongly recommend the Messi & Paoloni watertight compression connectors, specifically designed to take full advantage of our products, reduce the risks of thermal stress, while maintaining the exceptional shielding efficiency typical of all our models.
@@MessiPaoloniSRLAncona
You need to use a soldering iron with a lot of heat mass. Then you won't need to use higher than normal temperature and the area (to be soldered to) will heat up fast and won't damage the dielectric in the coax.
Also the braid must me tinned with some solder, prior to inserting the cable into the connector. Use some teflon based dielectric grease on the insulation, before screwing on the connector. It will go in much easier.
I've done a lot of connectors this way. Never had a failure. I never use crimped connectors that may be exposed to the elements outdoors, even if they are sealed. I've seen too many failures on crimped connectors.
@@andrewevanoff1192 I did mine with standard silver gold pin pl259s as you described along with liquid tape to the outside of the connector and cable, then applied STUF Teflon cable compound liberally to the inside of the connector before screwing it to the female connector...yeah its a bit overkill but I'm confident zero water gets in. SWR is 1.1 across the frequency spectrum I use. However I noticed his method was a bit simpler and I'm interested in trying it out along with my sealing method. Love their products
They said to read the description. Why didn't you?
@@modex20 the description was updated after all the comments.
No need to solder through the solder holes?
Some of you, based on old habits, matured in the old days of RG 213/U and RG8, (made with compact Polyethylene and 66% velocity ratio),
WILL OBJECT THAT WE HAVE NOT WELDED THE BRAID.
WELL WE DID IT DELIBERATELY!
From studies carried out, we have in fact experienced that in order to be able to weld the tin on the external hole of the PL 259 type connector, it is necessary to bring the temperature of the connector itself to about 300°C. This certainly does not damage the Teflon of a good quality connector, but can easily deform the expanded Polyethylene dielectrics which melt at 100-110 degrees C.
To give you excellent impedance stability an optimized VSWR, and exciting attenuations, M&P dedicates great efforts to maintain the tolerances of the dielectric diameters within a few hundredths of a millimeter.
Therefore, bringing the connector to about 300 ° C, to continue an old tradition, means giving up the very high performance of ANY modern expanded Polyethylene coaxial cable, with a velocity ratio of 84-87%. (depending on the models).
OBVIOUSLY WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THESE OLD GENERATION CONNECTORS!
We strongly recommend the Messi & Paoloni watertight compression connectors, specifically designed to take full advantage of our products, reduce the risks of thermal stress, while maintaining the exceptional shielding efficiency typical of all our models.
No ability to read?
Confermo il dubbio, non occorre saldare anche la schermatura? Grazie
Buona sera
Abbiamo realizzato un tutorial per chi utilizza connettori standard PL259, anche se consigliamo vivamente i nostri connettori di nuova generazione con doppia tenuta che assicurano una migliore protezione contro le infiltrazioni di acqua, umidità e condensa.
Alcuni di voi, sulla base di vecchie abitudini, maturate ai tempi di RG 213 / U e RG8, (realizzati con polietilene compatto e velocità di propagazione del 66%), OBIETTERANNO CHE NON ABBIAMO SALDATO LA TRECCIA.
BENE LO ABBIAMO FATTO DELIBERATAMENTE!
Dagli studi effettuati abbiamo infatti riscontrato che per poter saldare lo stagno sul foro esterno del connettore tipo PL 259 è necessario portare la temperatura del connettore stesso a circa 300 ° C. Questo certamente non danneggia il teflon di un connettore di buona qualità, ma può facilmente deformare i dielettrici in polietilene espanso che fondono a 100-110 gradi C.
Per darvi un'eccellente stabilità dell'impedenza, un VSWR ottimizzato e attenuazioni entusiasmanti, M&P dedica grandi sforzi per mantenere le tolleranze dei diametri dielettrici entro pochi centesimi di millimetro.
Portare il connettore a circa 300 ° C, quindi, per continuare una vecchia tradizione, significa rinunciare alle altissime prestazioni di QUALSIASI moderno cavo coassiale in Polietilene espanso, con un rapporto di velocità dell'84-87%. (a seconda dei modelli).
OVVIAMENTE SCONSIGLIAMO L'UTILIZZO DI QUESTI CONNETTORI DI VECCHIA GENERAZIONE!
Consigliamo vivamente i connettori stagni a compressione Messi & Paoloni, studiati appositamente per sfruttare appieno i nostri prodotti, ridurre i rischi di stress termico, pur mantenendo l'eccezionale efficienza schermante tipica di tutti i nostri modelli. Vedere UHF EVO la rivoluzione nei PL
@@MessiPaoloniSRLAncona Grazie l'ho visto dopo aver inviato il messaggio, scusate
Rca jacks
Unless you are particularily "rough" on your connectors, I don't see aving to do this all that often therefore the cost of the TOOLS plus the time setting them up is flat out COSTprohibitive. It would be more prudent to have spares...(Really, you need a CALIPER to measure?...C'mon Man!)
Use a ruler or whatsoever similar, the Caliper is for Pros!! :)
@@MessiPaoloniSRLAncona👍😜