I've had a QL17 for 12-15 years, although it's been wrapped in bubble wrap in a box for the last 10. Just pulled it out yesterday, ordered some batteries and a light seal kit, and look forward to putting it back into action.
The Quick Load feature was used by Canon in many of its prior RF and SLR cameras from the late 1960s, so not that unusual. The shutter priority auto-exposure function was the common style at the time because of the way the meter worked in auto-exposure, where the meter needle was physically "trapped"/locked at the exposure reading by pressing the shutter, which has a heavy pressure by modern standards. If you are into flash, it uses a standard, automatic hot-shoe flash. It can use any flash with a PC cord connector. Canon also made an electronic flash dedicated to the camera which links the aperture, film speed, and rangefinder focus to determine proper flash exposure while still in auto-exposure. (Very reliable) Finally, there is no "off" switch for the meter, and with modern battery types (non-mercury), the battery will run down quickly if left in auto-exposure mode. However, if you switch the aperture selector off of "A" to any f-stop setting (i.e., selecting manual exposure), the meter is switched off, saving the battery. This means that if you want to use manually selected shutter speed and aperture for a photo, you have to switch to auto-exposure (A), take a reading from the auto-exposure readout in the viewfinder, then switch back to manual aperture of choice to take the photo. The camera integrates a lot of automatic functions without any modern electronic technology, as the battery only powers the meter.
Thanks Randall for all the great information! I will have to make sure the camera is not in auto when not using it. Very curious as to why the quickload did not make it into later models. Also if other manufacturers did anything similar. Too me it seems like a great design.
@@Distphoto I thought I replied here, but I do not see it, so once again. The dedicated flash is the Canolite D. They are fairly common. Ebay is now showing several at around $25-30. They are old, so watch out for failed storage capacitors. They can be replaced fairly easily if required, but to have a shop do that would probably cost far more than the repaired flash would be worth. (Got a friend with a soldering iron?)
One complaint often voiced over this and similar Canon cameras is that there is no switch to turn off the light meter, allowing the meter battery to drain and die quickly. The original mercury batteries were far more robust than those made today. Canon's idea was that you just put on the lens cap, blocking all light to the meter, and the battery would for all practical purposes shut off. Today's batteries will still drain fairly quickly, thus the complaint Actually, in a way there is a battery "off" switch. The meter is designed to work when the meter/aperture is set to "A" for auto-exposure. If you move the aperture selector to any fixed F-stop, the meter shuts off, and the battery circuit is actually "off".
Thanks Randal. Seems like a switch would make more sense… guess they were counting on people reading the manual. I believe the hearing aid batteries I use now will drain even if not engaged. I could be wrong though.
@@Distphoto I haven't check the manual for the Canonet, but I doubt this is mentioned as a matter of meter battery preservation. Canon's direction actually was to keep the lens cap on when not in use to save the battery. These battery voltage calibrated Cds cell circuits raise the circuit resistance so high as to almost shut off current flow when it "sees" black. They just says to change the battery every year before it craps out. The Rollei 35 is the same - no meter switch, and no lens cap to cover the meter cell. Rollei just said to not worry that meter is on. Just change the battery annually and forget about it. Different times.
You just made my year with the DOF scale tip and link! I had no idea, it was the only thing I felt was missing. Thank you so much for sharing. I have also been in love with this camera since the day I got it 7 or so years ago. I have the all black version, well I actually have two, as I love them so much haha. But now, after watching this video (which was great btw) I love them even more more!
So jealous of the Black one... Makes me want another. I love mine too. The depth of field scale is a nice add for sure and it was super nice of them to do that!
I still use mine, though largely for old time's sake. It's been totally reliable for 40 years, though you can't get the correct light meter batteries anymore.
You can easily buy an adapter that takes 2 357's and compensates for the voltage. I use it with great success on my 35RC which is basically the same camera but smaller.
I bought a Canon 7 two years ago. You'll probably know it is a changeable lens 35mm rangefinder. The M39 screw LTM lenses are amazing (if you get a good version!). No quick load but it does have a selenium light meter, which is wholly inaccurate! I found Nikon Film cameras in the 70's and stayed loyal all the way to the Zii's and FE's today...until the Canon. The Nikon's have gone and now I'm a rangefinder only photographer, alas (solely because of cost) it's a German brand now, digital and film. I could not go back to a DSLR/mirrorless, so sterile and unengaging! Good channel, keep up the fine videos. Thanks
@@Distphoto Let me suggest: The 7/7s are fine bodies for the M39 (Leica thread) mount, particularly since you really have to go to a Leica M body with a thread adapter or a Cosina Bessa as rather expensive alternatives. However, I suggest that the "7"s are large, quite heavy, and not the most comfortable to carry over time. There is also the issues with the "new" shutter Canon adopted in the P and the 7 versions. Very durable, but it goes out of calibration adjustment range over time, making the high speeds (1/250 and up) quite unreliable. In that event, repair is impossible for lack of parts. Take a look at the VIT (trigger advance) or VIL (rapid advance lever). They have an equivalent viewfinder as the later models, but use the earlier shutter Canon adapted from the Leica shutter. (Can be cleaned or repaired in any shop,) Also, smaller, lighter and quicker operating. Just my opinion, but I think the VIT is the ultimate rangefinder camera, particularly for sports and quick moving subjects.
I have one. Shot one roll with it. It looks great, liked the photos, but I didn't enjoy shooting with it. Rangefinders annoy me, and it has a very unsatisfying shutter sound. Looks fantastic on my camera shelf though!
This was literally my first 35mm camera! Got it for $8 at my local thrift store, and its one of my favorites to still shoot with. It was the perfect camera for me to find. Sad to say though the screws for the focus knob backed out so focusing is a bitch to do these days
I have this camera and like it though I usually favour SLRs so it doesn’t get much use. Not sure if I missed you saying it but you can also shoot it in manual mode.
I love my slr's too... has taken me a bit to like the rangefinder but it is growing on me. Always love shooting with this. Been looking at medium format rangefinders for years but have not pulled the trigger... Oh wait I have a folder Super Ikonta that is in bad need of servicing... Anyway, I love cameras. Thanks for sharing!
Great video as always, thanks! IIRC Canon discontinued the quick load feature at least in its SLRs because it was not compatible with the motor drives introduced in the early 1970s. I still have a QL system in my Canon FTb, and I’m loving it! On the other hand, I‘m not really missing it in my F-1N. In the end, it‘s not that difficult to load film… 😅
Thanks for the info! I love the quicl load, though I am currently having a problem with bulk rolled film jamming in the thing and for the life of me can not figure it out...
Thats a great question... It's been a long while since I did it. I know I used Photoshop and printed on label sticky paper. and then used a tweesers to place it.. Thats all I remember. Do not recall haveing any issues with quality though. Hope that helps
The Canonet QL17 Giii was not a beginner camera for me. My beginner camera was an Argus C3. My next camera was a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 with fixed 45mm lens. The Canonet with fixed 40mm lens was my intermediate camera. The Contax G1 with four lenses was my next camera. The Leica M6 with three lenses was my last camera.
@@Distphoto Contax G1 Pros: Small size Titanium body G1 is available in two versions: white label and green label (I have one of each) Auto exposure, auto focus, auto film load, auto film advance, and auto rewind features Built-in eyepiece diopter High quality Zeiss lenses (I have 21/28/45/90) 28/45/90 lens kit is very useful 28/45/90 lenses all use the same 46mm filter size 28/45/90 lenses use the same 46mm filter as 14mm & 20mm Panasonic lenses used on my Olympus E-p1 digital 28/45/90 lenses have aperture ring with full click stops (my personal favorite) Lenses focus closer than my Leica M6 lenses Built-in corrective eyepiece for viewfinder Relatively low price for high quality equipment Accurate through-the-lens light metering Aperture Priority Automatic Exposure Control Manual Exposure Control Automatic Bracket Exposure Control Change bracket exposure order to over/standard/under from standard/over/under Multiple exposure feature Prefer the G1 hinged back to the M6 removable back G1 hinged back can be removed if desired Built-in film winder automatically cocks shutter and winds film (single shot mode) Built-in motor drive shoots 1.6 shots per second (continuous shot mode) Built-in auto rewind Change rewind to leave leader out of cassette from rewind leader into cassette Viewfinder automatically changes angle-of-view to match the lens mounted Viewfinder automatically corrects parallax error Flash syncs via hot shoe or PC port Flash syncs at 1/100 second and longer (exceeds my 1/60th sec. and longer standard) Small flash unit (TLA-140) needs only one battery (CR123) Through-the-lens flash metering and auto flash exposure are available with TLA-140 Typical rangefinder advantages over SLR such as no mirror slap, quieter operations, and no subject blackout in viewfinder at time photo is taken Equipment does not attract thieves and muggers Complete 20-year kit packaged in beautiful wooden box The titanium Contax G1 body with the Zeiss 3-lens kit cost less than one Leica M6 titanium body with no lenses
@@Distphoto Contax G1 Cons: Small body size and auto features make some people think it is a point & shoot No G1 black body No manual focus ring on lens (my biggest con) Difficult manual focus performed using rotating dial on top of camera Slow auto focus No depth-of-field scale on lenses Limited choice of lenses for Contax lens mount (about 7) Cannot use the 35-70mm f/3.5 to f/5.6 zoom on my G1 white label or green label Cannot use the 35mm f/2 on my G1 white label Cannot use the 21mm f/2.8 on my G1 white label No Shutter Priority Automatic Exposure Control No Program Automatic Exposure Control Aperture ring rotates in opposite direction of my Nikon and Fuji lenses Self-timer is 10-seconds only No longer produced or supported by manufacturer Battery dependent (uses two CR2 batteries) Not as quiet as Leica M6 rangefinder (important con for me because I want to use it for stage work) Viewfinder is not 100% accurate Prefer a 21/35/85 lens kit If Zeiss Contax G lenses are used on mirrorless cameras, an adapter that can provide a focusing feature must be used Small flash unit (TLA-140) uses CR123 battery Second shutter sync not available on TLA-140 flash unit Typical rangefinder limitations such as not as good as SLR for macro, close-ups, extreme wide, or extreme telephoto
@@Narsuitus Thank you! Looks like a capable camera but the lack of manual focus ring had me immediately. Appreciate all the other points you made as well! I have a feeling I will be looking to the Leica M6 as well.
Hi. I am just starting to use this camera and have a question about how to tell what the right aperture setting should be when taking a shot. I know sunny sixteen, but my AE1 has an indicator in the viewfinder that is activated when I press the shutter button half-way down. There is a small needle that will tell me what aperture it suggests based on my film's ISO and my shutter speed. I see that same meter on this camera through the viewfinder, but it's only working on auto mode, when it's manual, it doesn't tell me what the aperture should be... any idea how to activate that needle off " A mode?"
I believe the meter is only active in this camera in Auto mode. So if you want to use the meter set the shutter speed put it in A and it will tell you what fstop to shoot. then manually put it to that f-stop. What I tend to do is use it in Auto mode. Meter off of the shadow (or whatever I want to expose for) press the shutter half way to lock the exposure setting recompose and then set focus and fire. But if the light is not changing get your meter reading set it to manual and you should be good to go. Just check it if you feel the need 👍🏻
I usually like the look a bit better for most black and white shots I take with my favorite films… I do not always have it on but would say at least 80% of b&w film I do.
Is this the filter you suggest for B&W photos? If so, where can I find it? Sorry I'm new and your video has been very helpful so I figured you know a lot. LOL @@Distphoto
I use this a lot for B&W film. adds a bit more contrast to the shadow and film in general (it cuts blue light so will darken blue skies and open shadows a little) Not to dramatic but can give the negs a little boost. I use the yellow filter a lot but no always. You do loose a little light so additional exposure is needed. The Canonet has a weird filter size - 48mm. I found this Venmar k2 yellow on Ebay. But you can use a step up ring like this one - amzn.to/3OO5Cfn And then a 49mm filter - amzn.to/3OO5Cfn Hope that helps!
i do not regard it as beginner 35mm camera. with all the aperture/shutter controls, rangefinder manual focusing, and other features, it will be intimidating for a beginner to feel comfortable. the best beginner 35mm camera in my opinion is Olympus Pen. Good lens, simple auto exposure control, zone focusing, double frame rates.
Great points and recommendations! I believe the Canon is a good option as it does shutter speed priority auto which is pretty intuitive. The rangefinder is bright and easy to use. I mean you could give a beginner a point-and-shoot and that might suit them best at first, but I feel the Canon gives that room to grow and have creative control while being very simple & fun to use.
Another dope video.Thank you each and every time. Those are pretty cheap here in Japan and I've been thinking about getting one since I sold my Canon VT last year. Glad to get your opinion of them. And people, if you're reading this, please subscribe. One of the best channels on TH-cam right here and always lots of good info in the comments too.
I would imagine the price point... Someone new to film photography that just wants to try it out might not want to spend 2-3 thousand to see if they like it. This camera in particular can get you going with great results for a hundred bucks or so and like I said in the video it is a great shooting experience and that is why I feel it is the best (or one of the best) for this.
You can’t seriously recommend a 60 year old camera to every first time film shooter. Most of them need servicing or parts which 99% of the people who want to get into film won’t be able to do. There are millions of cameras from the late 90s that will still work great for many years.
My Canonet worked and still works perfectly when I got it. Plus they can be bought cheap and a CLA is not expensive all things considered. Yeah I would definitely recommend I it. Far more enjoyable to shoot (in my opinion) than most cameras made in the 90’s
That printed DOF scale is pretty neat! When I picked mine up I made my own DOF scale by referencing a DOF app, and drawing the scale with 3 different color fine tipped markers. One color for f16, another for f11, and another for f8. Worked well.
I've had a QL17 for 12-15 years, although it's been wrapped in bubble wrap in a box for the last 10. Just pulled it out yesterday, ordered some batteries and a light seal kit, and look forward to putting it back into action.
Awesome to hear… mine was on the shelf for quite a time too. But have been using it non stop lately. Not sure why I let it sit honestly 😀
Wow, I had no idea it had exposure lock on half press! Crazy to learn something new about this canonet.
Indeed, love this way of shooting with it!
The Quick Load feature was used by Canon in many of its prior RF and SLR cameras from the late 1960s, so not that unusual. The shutter priority auto-exposure function was the common style at the time because of the way the meter worked in auto-exposure, where the meter needle was physically "trapped"/locked at the exposure reading by pressing the shutter, which has a heavy pressure by modern standards. If you are into flash, it uses a standard, automatic hot-shoe flash. It can use any flash with a PC cord connector. Canon also made an electronic flash dedicated to the camera which links the aperture, film speed, and rangefinder focus to determine proper flash exposure while still in auto-exposure. (Very reliable) Finally, there is no "off" switch for the meter, and with modern battery types (non-mercury), the battery will run down quickly if left in auto-exposure mode. However, if you switch the aperture selector off of "A" to any f-stop setting (i.e., selecting manual exposure), the meter is switched off, saving the battery. This means that if you want to use manually selected shutter speed and aperture for a photo, you have to switch to auto-exposure (A), take a reading from the auto-exposure readout in the viewfinder, then switch back to manual aperture of choice to take the photo. The camera integrates a lot of automatic functions without any modern electronic technology, as the battery only powers the meter.
Thanks Randall for all the great information! I will have to make sure the camera is not in auto when not using it.
Very curious as to why the quickload did not make it into later models. Also if other manufacturers did anything similar. Too me it seems like a great design.
Gonna search for the flash for this camera… do you know the model or if they are rare?
@@Distphoto I thought I replied here, but I do not see it, so once again. The dedicated flash is the Canolite D. They are fairly common. Ebay is now showing several at around $25-30. They are old, so watch out for failed storage capacitors. They can be replaced fairly easily if required, but to have a shop do that would probably cost far more than the repaired flash would be worth. (Got a friend with a soldering iron?)
@@randallstewart1224 Thanks Randal. I will pick one up… love the look for film shots 👍
Thank you, Sir, for the info- very kind to share.
One complaint often voiced over this and similar Canon cameras is that there is no switch to turn off the light meter, allowing the meter battery to drain and die quickly. The original mercury batteries were far more robust than those made today. Canon's idea was that you just put on the lens cap, blocking all light to the meter, and the battery would for all practical purposes shut off. Today's batteries will still drain fairly quickly, thus the complaint Actually, in a way there is a battery "off" switch. The meter is designed to work when the meter/aperture is set to "A" for auto-exposure. If you move the aperture selector to any fixed F-stop, the meter shuts off, and the battery circuit is actually "off".
Thanks Randal. Seems like a switch would make more sense… guess they were counting on people reading the manual. I believe the hearing aid batteries I use now will drain even if not engaged. I could be wrong though.
@@Distphoto I haven't check the manual for the Canonet, but I doubt this is mentioned as a matter of meter battery preservation. Canon's direction actually was to keep the lens cap on when not in use to save the battery. These battery voltage calibrated Cds cell circuits raise the circuit resistance so high as to almost shut off current flow when it "sees" black. They just says to change the battery every year before it craps out. The Rollei 35 is the same - no meter switch, and no lens cap to cover the meter cell. Rollei just said to not worry that meter is on. Just change the battery annually and forget about it. Different times.
The fixed lens was a selling point to me! It reduces anxiety from picking a lens lol
Fixed lens can be a blessing... for this camera I find it wonderfull.
I have the QL19 and was very impressed by the sharpness and contrast. They're great little cameras
Love mine! Thanks for sharing!
You just made my year with the DOF scale tip and link! I had no idea, it was the only thing I felt was missing. Thank you so much for sharing. I have also been in love with this camera since the day I got it 7 or so years ago. I have the all black version, well I actually have two, as I love them so much haha. But now, after watching this video (which was great btw) I love them even more more!
So jealous of the Black one... Makes me want another. I love mine too. The depth of field scale is a nice add for sure and it was super nice of them to do that!
I still use mine, though largely for old time's sake. It's been totally reliable for 40 years, though you can't get the correct light meter batteries anymore.
Very nostalgic experience, I find the hearing aid batteries work well enough!
You can easily buy an adapter that takes 2 357's and compensates for the voltage. I use it with great success on my 35RC which is basically the same camera but smaller.
Thanks I will look into that, would be a bit of piece of mind for the meter… Though it has not been an issue.
I bought a Canon 7 two years ago. You'll probably know it is a changeable lens 35mm rangefinder. The M39 screw LTM lenses are amazing (if you get a good version!). No quick load but it does have a selenium light meter, which is wholly inaccurate! I found Nikon Film cameras in the 70's and stayed loyal all the way to the Zii's and FE's today...until the Canon. The Nikon's have gone and now I'm a rangefinder only photographer, alas (solely because of cost) it's a German brand now, digital and film. I could not go back to a DSLR/mirrorless, so sterile and unengaging! Good channel, keep up the fine videos. Thanks
Thanks David. Been eying up the Canon 7. Looks like the glass is pretty nice! Thanks for the info.
@@Distphoto Let me suggest: The 7/7s are fine bodies for the M39 (Leica thread) mount, particularly since you really have to go to a Leica M body with a thread adapter or a Cosina Bessa as rather expensive alternatives. However, I suggest that the "7"s are large, quite heavy, and not the most comfortable to carry over time. There is also the issues with the "new" shutter Canon adopted in the P and the 7 versions. Very durable, but it goes out of calibration adjustment range over time, making the high speeds (1/250 and up) quite unreliable. In that event, repair is impossible for lack of parts. Take a look at the VIT (trigger advance) or VIL (rapid advance lever). They have an equivalent viewfinder as the later models, but use the earlier shutter Canon adapted from the Leica shutter. (Can be cleaned or repaired in any shop,) Also, smaller, lighter and quicker operating. Just my opinion, but I think the VIT is the ultimate rangefinder camera, particularly for sports and quick moving subjects.
I have one. Shot one roll with it. It looks great, liked the photos, but I didn't enjoy shooting with it. Rangefinders annoy me, and it has a very unsatisfying shutter sound. Looks fantastic on my camera shelf though!
@@shoff1973 Took me a bit to get used to rangefinder’s… now I prefer them 🤷🏻♂️
This was literally my first 35mm camera! Got it for $8 at my local thrift store, and its one of my favorites to still shoot with. It was the perfect camera for me to find. Sad to say though the screws for the focus knob backed out so focusing is a bitch to do these days
Wow that was a steal! I have really enjoyed mine too!
I have this camera and like it though I usually favour SLRs so it doesn’t get much use. Not sure if I missed you saying it but you can also shoot it in manual mode.
I love my slr's too... has taken me a bit to like the rangefinder but it is growing on me. Always love shooting with this. Been looking at medium format rangefinders for years but have not pulled the trigger... Oh wait I have a folder Super Ikonta that is in bad need of servicing... Anyway, I love cameras. Thanks for sharing!
One of the best cameras of the calibre
Agreed 👍
Great video as always, thanks! IIRC Canon discontinued the quick load feature at least in its SLRs because it was not compatible with the motor drives introduced in the early 1970s. I still have a QL system in my Canon FTb, and I’m loving it! On the other hand, I‘m not really missing it in my F-1N. In the end, it‘s not that difficult to load film… 😅
Thanks for the info! I love the quicl load, though I am currently having a problem with bulk rolled film jamming in the thing and for the life of me can not figure it out...
Hey mate, great video, I am a member of the rangefinder community. How did you print out the DOF so small without losing quality? Thanks
Thats a great question... It's been a long while since I did it. I know I used Photoshop and printed on label sticky paper. and then used a tweesers to place it.. Thats all I remember. Do not recall haveing any issues with quality though. Hope that helps
The Canonet QL17 Giii was not a beginner camera for me.
My beginner camera was an Argus C3.
My next camera was a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 with fixed 45mm lens.
The Canonet with fixed 40mm lens was my intermediate camera.
The Contax G1 with four lenses was my next camera.
The Leica M6 with three lenses was my last camera.
Very nice progression, how did or do you like the G1 ?
@@Distphoto
Contax G1 Pros:
Small size
Titanium body
G1 is available in two versions: white label and green label (I have one of each)
Auto exposure, auto focus, auto film load, auto film advance, and auto rewind features
Built-in eyepiece diopter
High quality Zeiss lenses (I have 21/28/45/90)
28/45/90 lens kit is very useful
28/45/90 lenses all use the same 46mm filter size
28/45/90 lenses use the same 46mm filter as 14mm & 20mm Panasonic lenses used on my Olympus E-p1 digital
28/45/90 lenses have aperture ring with full click stops (my personal favorite)
Lenses focus closer than my Leica M6 lenses
Built-in corrective eyepiece for viewfinder
Relatively low price for high quality equipment
Accurate through-the-lens light metering
Aperture Priority Automatic Exposure Control
Manual Exposure Control
Automatic Bracket Exposure Control
Change bracket exposure order to over/standard/under from standard/over/under
Multiple exposure feature
Prefer the G1 hinged back to the M6 removable back
G1 hinged back can be removed if desired
Built-in film winder automatically cocks shutter and winds film (single shot mode)
Built-in motor drive shoots 1.6 shots per second (continuous shot mode)
Built-in auto rewind
Change rewind to leave leader out of cassette from rewind leader into cassette
Viewfinder automatically changes angle-of-view to match the lens mounted
Viewfinder automatically corrects parallax error
Flash syncs via hot shoe or PC port
Flash syncs at 1/100 second and longer (exceeds my 1/60th sec. and longer standard)
Small flash unit (TLA-140) needs only one battery (CR123)
Through-the-lens flash metering and auto flash exposure are available with TLA-140
Typical rangefinder advantages over SLR such as no mirror slap, quieter operations, and no subject blackout in viewfinder at time photo is taken
Equipment does not attract thieves and muggers
Complete 20-year kit packaged in beautiful wooden box
The titanium Contax G1 body with the Zeiss 3-lens kit cost less than one Leica M6 titanium body with no lenses
@@Distphoto
Contax G1 Cons:
Small body size and auto features make some people think it is a point & shoot
No G1 black body
No manual focus ring on lens (my biggest con)
Difficult manual focus performed using rotating dial on top of camera
Slow auto focus
No depth-of-field scale on lenses
Limited choice of lenses for Contax lens mount (about 7)
Cannot use the 35-70mm f/3.5 to f/5.6 zoom on my G1 white label or green label
Cannot use the 35mm f/2 on my G1 white label
Cannot use the 21mm f/2.8 on my G1 white label
No Shutter Priority Automatic Exposure Control
No Program Automatic Exposure Control
Aperture ring rotates in opposite direction of my Nikon and Fuji lenses
Self-timer is 10-seconds only
No longer produced or supported by manufacturer
Battery dependent (uses two CR2 batteries)
Not as quiet as Leica M6 rangefinder (important con for me because I want to use it for stage work)
Viewfinder is not 100% accurate
Prefer a 21/35/85 lens kit
If Zeiss Contax G lenses are used on mirrorless cameras, an adapter that can provide a focusing feature must be used
Small flash unit (TLA-140) uses CR123 battery
Second shutter sync not available on TLA-140 flash unit
Typical rangefinder limitations such as not as good as SLR for macro, close-ups, extreme wide, or extreme telephoto
@@Narsuitus Thank you! Looks like a capable camera but the lack of manual focus ring had me immediately.
Appreciate all the other points you made as well!
I have a feeling I will be looking to the Leica M6 as well.
Hi. I am just starting to use this camera and have a question about how to tell what the right aperture setting should be when taking a shot. I know sunny sixteen, but my AE1 has an indicator in the viewfinder that is activated when I press the shutter button half-way down. There is a small needle that will tell me what aperture it suggests based on my film's ISO and my shutter speed. I see that same meter on this camera through the viewfinder, but it's only working on auto mode, when it's manual, it doesn't tell me what the aperture should be... any idea how to activate that needle off " A mode?"
I believe the meter is only active in this camera in Auto mode. So if you want to use the meter set the shutter speed put it in A and it will tell you what fstop to shoot. then manually put it to that f-stop. What I tend to do is use it in Auto mode. Meter off of the shadow (or whatever I want to expose for) press the shutter half way to lock the exposure setting recompose and then set focus and fire.
But if the light is not changing get your meter reading set it to manual and you should be good to go. Just check it if you feel the need 👍🏻
When you mention DOF are we talking hyperfocal distance for each f stop
Do you do anything particular with the battery? These feel super loose in the battery compartment
Yes, I use a small piece of tin foil/Reynolds wrap and press it between the battery and the black battery door 👍
Is there a timer? Thanks!
Yes! It’s on the lens!
What Denis said 👍🏻
Does it take a long warm-up time between the shots?
None
How come you choose to keep the k2 filter on?
I usually like the look a bit better for most black and white shots I take with my favorite films… I do not always have it on but would say at least 80% of b&w film I do.
Do you have a filter on the camera?
Yes there was a yellow filter on it 👍
Is this the filter you suggest for B&W photos? If so, where can I find it? Sorry I'm new and your video has been very helpful so I figured you know a lot. LOL @@Distphoto
I use this a lot for B&W film. adds a bit more contrast to the shadow and film in general (it cuts blue light so will darken blue skies and open shadows a little) Not to dramatic but can give the negs a little boost. I use the yellow filter a lot but no always. You do loose a little light so additional exposure is needed.
The Canonet has a weird filter size - 48mm. I found this Venmar k2 yellow on Ebay.
But you can use a step up ring like this one - amzn.to/3OO5Cfn
And then a 49mm filter - amzn.to/3OO5Cfn
Hope that helps!
i do not regard it as beginner 35mm camera. with all the aperture/shutter controls, rangefinder manual focusing, and other features, it will be intimidating for a beginner to feel comfortable.
the best beginner 35mm camera in my opinion is Olympus Pen. Good lens, simple auto exposure control, zone focusing, double frame rates.
Great points and recommendations! I believe the Canon is a good option as it does shutter speed priority auto which is pretty intuitive. The rangefinder is bright and easy to use. I mean you could give a beginner a point-and-shoot and that might suit them best at first, but I feel the Canon gives that room to grow and have creative control while being very simple & fun to use.
Thats a cool laidback handy review. Enojyed it. I have a canon lenscap for you if you want. Shipping from Holland should be ok. Let me know :)
Appreciate that! I have one somewhere... just have to look for it! But much appreciated
Another dope video.Thank you each and every time. Those are pretty cheap here in Japan and I've been thinking about getting one since I sold my Canon VT last year. Glad to get your opinion of them. And people, if you're reading this, please subscribe. One of the best channels on TH-cam right here and always lots of good info in the comments too.
Appreciate that!
48 to 49? 🤔
Odd filter size.
Why does it seem like every camera that isn't a Leica or a Hasselblad is described as "perfect for first timers"?
I would imagine the price point... Someone new to film photography that just wants to try it out might not want to spend 2-3 thousand to see if they like it. This camera in particular can get you going with great results for a hundred bucks or so and like I said in the video it is a great shooting experience and that is why I feel it is the best (or one of the best) for this.
Nonsense. The best beginner camera is of course Leica M6.
Indeed… Maybe the Canon is second or third…😂
You can’t seriously recommend a 60 year old camera to every first time film shooter. Most of them need servicing or parts which 99% of the people who want to get into film won’t be able to do. There are millions of cameras from the late 90s that will still work great for many years.
My Canonet worked and still works perfectly when I got it. Plus they can be bought cheap and a CLA is not expensive all things considered. Yeah I would definitely recommend I it. Far more enjoyable to shoot (in my opinion) than most cameras made in the 90’s
That printed DOF scale is pretty neat! When I picked mine up I made my own DOF scale by referencing a DOF app, and drawing the scale with 3 different color fine tipped markers. One color for f16, another for f11, and another for f8. Worked well.
Very cool! It is great to have, especially on a camera like this!