Be carefull, at the minute 22:05, you hold the table with your hand y used your drill aganinst the hand, What if tue drill slip and goes agains your hand? I am an emergency doctor, and I have seen many accidents in this way. (excuse my bad english, I am Mexican
Hi I love your detailed and practical instructions , I'm stuck on getting my louvers to come out pretty , I'm using feather boards in the center pressure but I'm getting about 3-4 gouges on all my pieces . What's the secret? Or do you think that's normal and I should just filler it up ?
Sommerfield's video has some poor methods. First, you must have a hold down on top of the louver when you are running the wood through the router. You can see on the video, he made mistakes at least twice and the wood stock raised and he had to run it again. . Second, the feather board must be centered on the wood. Third, you must feed the material at an even and consistent feed. Fourth, you must have a long thin (1/4" thick) push-stick to push the wood the last few inches. Using your finger to push it is highly dangerous. In routing, you MUST push the material through the router bit at the same rate of speed...pretend you are a robot pushing it through. I have had the most success on louvers when I have fed it pretty fast (not light-speed fast). You need to practice on scrap wood the exact same size. I also add a second feather board at the right side of the table to make sure I feed the wood nice and straight, always keeping it tight to the fence. I have a habit of pushing the wood away from the fence (creating some space) which is not good. Lastly, if you still have problems then you need to add a long spacer on the left side (out feed) of the router table. Experiment, it will be shaped sort of like a knife blade and matches the space after the cut is made. You can make it by taking a long board and ripping it on a table saw. This will be a very, very thin long piece the is tapered top to bottom. We are talking about a long piece that is about 1/4" wide and 1/16" or so thick with a very sharp angle which gives it a knife edge. Take the long skinny board and using double sided adhesive tape, stick it to the bottom of the outfeed router table. This prevents the stock from drifting into the fence. If you don't do these type of steps you will be tossing out a lot of scrap wood. Sommerfield makes it look very simple but his method will not make consistent high quality results.
Dear Marc, thanks a lot , but the important point that needs to be considered is that the weight of controller rod located at the center of the louvers should not pull the louvers back to open / half open position . The louvers needs to be stiff a little bit.
@@jwar2163 Yes he is using red oak but you must realize that a wood this hard will quickly dull the router bit. Remember you are running hundreds of feet of wood through the router table. For this reason, if you don't need the oak kind of wood grain, then you should consider a soft wood wood like poplar, bass or clear pine.
@@markgkenny2264 I was replying to Badman XXL`s question about what wood is being used. I am well aware of the hardness of red oak as one of the many hardwoods that I use in my personal woodworking shop. I have used red oak to make shutters, but then again I have a planer/moulder for that with knifes designed for shutters that are hardened and able to be re-sharpened In the video Mark Sommerfeld is using a router table which many people only have access to. Your points are valid as the router bit will dull out with hardwood. Bass wood is the best for shutter louvers. As for me all my wood from cabinets, trim, crown, casement, shutters, and doors are produced with red oak.
Why are they called plantation shutters? Is this a leftover from any plantation house? Here in the Netherlands they’re just called shutters XD I saw that regular shutters are the fixed panel ones
ДЕЙСТВИТЕЛЬНО МАСТЕР СВОЕГО ДЕЛА ПОБОЛЬШЕ ТАКИХ НУЖНО НА ЮТЮБЕ . УДАЧИ ТЕБЕ.
Dear, Thank you very much for your window shutter set to create beautiful shutter. and i learn to you.
Hmmm I finally followed Robert's advice and downloaded Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible. It's great for beginners, and has some advanced stuff too.
good detailed video
Brilliant. Thanks
Greetings, I just bought your set of shutter router bits. I would like to know what wood to use. Can you please let me know.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! MASTER!!!
Buen día! Felicidades buen trabajo,de que medida de ancho son las ranuras o canales
Be carefull, at the minute 22:05, you hold the table with your hand y used your drill aganinst the hand, What if tue drill slip and goes agains your hand? I am an emergency doctor, and I have seen many accidents in this way. (excuse my bad english, I am Mexican
Hi I love your detailed and practical instructions , I'm stuck on getting my louvers to come out pretty , I'm using feather boards in the center pressure but I'm getting about 3-4 gouges on all my pieces . What's the secret? Or do you think that's normal and I should just filler it up ?
Sommerfield's video has some poor methods. First, you must have a hold down on top of the louver when you are running the wood through the router. You can see on the video, he made mistakes at least twice and the wood stock raised and he had to run it again. . Second, the feather board must be centered on the wood. Third, you must feed the material at an even and consistent feed. Fourth, you must have a long thin (1/4" thick) push-stick to push the wood the last few inches. Using your finger to push it is highly dangerous. In routing, you MUST push the material through the router bit at the same rate of speed...pretend you are a robot pushing it through. I have had the most success on louvers when I have fed it pretty fast (not light-speed fast). You need to practice on scrap wood the exact same size. I also add a second feather board at the right side of the table to make sure I feed the wood nice and straight, always keeping it tight to the fence. I have a habit of pushing the wood away from the fence (creating some space) which is not good. Lastly, if you still have problems then you need to add a long spacer on the left side (out feed) of the router table. Experiment, it will be shaped sort of like a knife blade and matches the space after the cut is made. You can make it by taking a long board and ripping it on a table saw. This will be a very, very thin long piece the is tapered top to bottom. We are talking about a long piece that is about 1/4" wide and 1/16" or so thick with a very sharp angle which gives it a knife edge. Take the long skinny board and using double sided adhesive tape, stick it to the bottom of the outfeed router table. This prevents the stock from drifting into the fence. If you don't do these type of steps you will be tossing out a lot of scrap wood. Sommerfield makes it look very simple but his method will not make consistent high quality results.
Could this method be upsized for adding adjustable louvers to a patio pergola for shading against rain?
Absolutely
How to use the Our NEW 3pc.Window Shutter Set! in a german Router "Festool" OF 1400 ist a great system
Speak English
what are thickness of rails and stiles
Normally the thickness is a full 1" to 1-1/16". Thicker is better.
Is there any issue with using pine for the rails and stiles?
Use whatever you want. Line is Carl but you do whatever you want
Scary work practices there my friend. Plunge cutting with your hand right in front of the cutter.
Dear Marc, thanks a lot , but the important point that needs to be considered is that the weight of controller rod located at the center of the louvers should not pull the louvers back to open / half open position . The louvers needs to be stiff a little bit.
You have no idea what you are talking about
Hi Marc, i have a question; "wich wooden are uses you for the shutters ????" Greeting from Germany
He is using Red Oak.
@@jwar2163 Yes he is using red oak but you must realize that a wood this hard will quickly dull the router bit. Remember you are running hundreds of feet of wood through the router table. For this reason, if you don't need the oak kind of wood grain, then you should consider a soft wood wood like poplar, bass or clear pine.
@@markgkenny2264 I was replying to Badman XXL`s question about what wood is being used. I am well aware of the hardness of red oak as one of the many hardwoods that I use in my personal woodworking shop. I have used red oak to make shutters, but then again I have a planer/moulder for that with knifes designed for shutters that are hardened and able to be re-sharpened In the video Mark Sommerfeld is using a router table which many people only have access to. Your points are valid as the router bit will dull out with hardwood. Bass wood is the best for shutter louvers. As for me all my wood from cabinets, trim, crown, casement, shutters, and doors are produced with red oak.
@@jwar2163 I'm sure your Oak shutters are beautiful !
Badman XXL - why do you think the Sommerfield never replies to lots of questions?
Why are they called plantation shutters? Is this a leftover from any plantation house? Here in the Netherlands they’re just called shutters XD I saw that regular shutters are the fixed panel ones
Go away Skippy
Hi, why don't you answer ????
Ask real questions
Great question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Why has he not answered a single question.
@@markgkenny2264he passed away that’s why
Инструмент весь с купли. руки по хрен заточены.
Well the tools purchased for this project justifies the cost saved.
Dude this is painful.