Dinoflagellates is a type of phytoplankton. When I got it. I stoped water changes. Let tank get somewhat dirty. Letting other algae try to grow and out competent. Purchased copepods and Ocean Magik put them in my tank. Doses the Ocean Macik phytoplankton at twice the recommended dose each day and in 3 weeks time it was gone. Biggest thing I think is repopulating my tank with multiple organisms to set things back in balance.
I really love your coral selection and diversity! You have a super sick tank man with all nice fully grown colonies! What tank is your, like how many gallons, dimension, and what light? I just basically restarted my Im 50 lagoon in march so I have only all new frag! Can't wait till everything grows out again in my tank! Ohh my light is powered by ecotechradion gen 4 pro.
Great video! Reef2Reefs forum helped me out too. I found dosing sodium silicate to promote diatoms along with Nitrate and Phosphate took care of mine. My Dino’s where in the sand so UV wouldn’t work. Diatoms and dinos do not coexist well together. Dino’s where gone after 2 weeks of dosing silicate.
Great information! I battled dino for about 12 months, some weeks it wasn't that bad other weeks it was terrible. I tried just about everything that was out there then the last 3 months I just let things get dirty. I removed GFO and shut off my ATS but it just got worse. I ended up rebooting the system. Looking back I think my system was stripped of no3 and po4 which caused the outbreak. I had it in my head that I needed undetectable no3/po4 and I aggressively ran GFO. Thank you for putting this info out there!
thanks Mike. Sorry to hear about your tank. hopefully by getting the information out there, reefers can think about the different ways to deal with dinos.
I installed a big oversized UV from the start this time. Mainly for algae and bacteria blooms. And I’ve avoided a lot of the ugly phase of cycling with dry rock. I think the 2 watts per gallon is off. Mine is a HO 90 watt Amalgam bulb and says rated for 900ish gallons. My tank is 300. I run it at 2000 gpm for 12 hrs and 400 gpm for 12 hrs. I have seen a lot of videos lately about Vibrance. BRS did a nice investigates on it. I hear it will wipe out Dino’s and bubble algae.
I really appreciate this video. I have had this problem off and on over the years. I have often thought of removing all sand but have never committed to go that drastic. Your corals do not look like they have suffered at all, in fact, the whole tank looks exceptional. Thank you!
Hi AmroZul! Thank you very much for the very informative video on Dinos. I am facing dino outbreak right now. I have a UV and am running at night. I am trying to adjust the NO3 to 5 ppm and 0.1 ppm as you specified. You mentioned Sachem Flourish. Can you please give me the exact product info or link to buy from amazon? Thank you.
I never thought having 0"s straight across was even possible, however I guess it depends on load especially if you have no fish in the tank. And never heard anyone say don't go down there or your tank will be in hell. all joking aside, I Think that's the right approach raising nutrients as the zero's seem to be tell tale of the syndrome that's reported by reefers. I have cloudy water trying to keep a few corals alive as the thank is 2.5 years old. At this point a micron filter and pump will be needed to clear the water and then try raising the nutrients. thanks for the encouragement.
Hi, Thanks for sharing your experience. I have dino and cyano issues. Have been trying Vibrant for 1.5 month but it didnt work. After watching your video i decided to get my NO3 and PO4 readings and they were both at 0!!! So as per your recommendation i am going to dose the tank to start seeing increase. couple of questions: 1- Should i do water change and if so how often ? 2- should i turn my carbon/phosphate minus reactor off ? 3- Do i really need to remove the sand or should i just cleanup the cyano/dino from the surface of the sand ? Thanks alot
@@TheBioReef Thanks for your reply. How ofter should i do water change ? once i remove the sand , does that mean i can no longer have sand bed in my tank or i can add it back once the Dino issue is solved ? Thank you for your response
Kamran B I did weekly 5% water changes ... I managed to reintroduce sand after I got my dino issue in check ... also UV sterilizer is a really useful tool in the fight
Outstanding video. You come across as very well informed. I've been battling Dino for over a year and about ready to give up the hobby. I've always had undetectable amounts of both nitrate and phosphate and it never occurred to me that that might actually be counter-productive and contributing to my Dino problem. I'll try what you suggest... to be honest I'm excited to have a new approach. Thanks much for sharing!
My tank looks the same! Perhaps I've had dinos over the past few months. I thought maybe my food had silicates in it. I've been changing my filter socks regularly and I've replaced all my rodi filters. I had thought about removing my sandbed. Maybe i'll look into a uv sterilizer.
9StickNate try to get a sample of the red stuff on the sandbed and check under a scope; you can buy some cheap ones on amazon. Would be good to get s positive ID before deciding on a treatment
I'm about to tackle this now, I have an outbreak on the sandbed and some corals have dinos latching on to them. I just got my UV sterilizer ( jebao 55 watt for a reefer 350, 90 gallon.) I noticed in your video you had 2 ways you hooked it up. Can you elaborate how I should hook up the sterilizer? I have the same pump you used to dangle off the side as well ready to hook up. Should I also do the water change? I heard this was counter intuitive. Did you blow off your rocks at certain times of the day to help the UV do its job?
V's Reef good luck with the battle. I did water changes like usual. For the Uv sterilizer, make sure that the input and out output tubes are above the UV sterilizer. So water comes in from the top, fills the entire body of the sterilize then flows up and away (ensures that no air can be trapped inside the sterilizer
Great channel! Thank you both for this info. In a similar situation with my Reefer 250. Which pump did you use for the Jebao UV sterilizer and this in DT setup?
The Clueless Reefer many things to consider here. 1. If you have a Dino outbreak, then controlling it would be my first priority vs. pods. 2) uv will not likely influence large copepods that are associated with live rock or substrate. 3) uv may reduce the population of smaller species of pods that persist in the water column... so it can have some affects on your pod diversity, but in case of s Dino outbreak, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it till Dino’s are under control
I'm battling Prorocentrum in my Reefer 250 at the moment too. Been at it for 3 months. I have raised my nitrates and phosphates, that were zero before hand, and installed a 55w UV steriliser 3 weeks ago.The tank is 80% free of dinos now but the last 20% is proving very stubborn, especially small patches on the sand. Can you explain what you mean when you mention that your UV was installed wrong?
Ok, compare the UV sterilizer at 3:15 in this video [incorrect] to the UV sterilizer at the start of this video th-cam.com/video/oRqzWpJlqA4/w-d-xo.html [correct]. In the incorrect orientation, i was feeding the uv sterilizer from below, which means that water was not likely fully circulating in the top part of the UV. In the correct orientation, water enters the sterilizer from above, has to fill out the entire UV before exiting from the top again. Good luck with the battle... the last patches are the ones that take the longer... try to ignore them for now and keep doing what your doing; in a few more month, you may not be able to see them
Hi , I’m just stating my battle with Dino’s, my tank has been reading 0 ppm PO4 for too long wich I guess led to the outbreak. I am currently try to elevate my nutrients ( NO3 and PO4), I am over feeding but don’t really like that, I going to dose for phosphates I’ll be using Seachem Flourish Phosphorus like you did but not sure if I can also use Flourish Nitrogen for increasing Nitrates. Or what did you use. Thanks You, Fernando.
Do I keep running bio pellets and all that once my nitrates and phosphates are up again, like dosing nitrate while removing nitrate I guess? To keep levels under control? Great looking tank btw..
i don't think you should be doing any carbon dosing (like bio pellets) for a while. just control the no3 and po4 levels by reducing dosing. if your levels are getting really high, consider growing chaeto or running an algae scrubber. good luck with the battle
This great info and makes sense All my readings are zero no ammonia nitrite or nitrates and I am new so for some time I thought they were diatoms changing water like a mad man they only get worse. I did a black out for three days and dose with peroxide 1ml per gallon not per ten gallons. I use this method when I have cyano in a fresh tank I have only a couple corals most have been put in my other tank after being dipped, so I am not going to lose all my corals, fish seem okay I have also been dosing good bacteria while the tank is darked out I have also noticed the smell has gone out of the tank Dinoflagellates do have a seafood smell to them, to me like steamed crab my tank normally smells like the ocean in BC. Tomorrow lights com back on see how my issue is after a couple of days
Great video. So why was the UV installed the wring way before? Mine is that way and I'm wondering if that's part of the reason it doesn't seem to be having a huge effect.
Kyle Riedel hi Kyle.. if the hose barbs are pointed downwards, then water may not fully fill the sterilizer, which reduces its effectiveness. But if the hose barbs are pointed upwards, then water fill go down, fully fill the sterilizer chamber, then exit upwards... jebo doesn’t come with useful instructions but I found out about correct orientation from reading the manual of fancier sterilizers. Also note that you need to use a slower flow to kill dinos; they are bigger then most bacteria and need to dwell longer in the sterilizer.
What up azul. I'm watching this video because I have dinos now. I'm doing everything you described in this video. My worry is my sps.. will they survive? Did you loose sps or any other corals when you had this problem? Did removal of the sand bed help? I'm running UV but it doesn't seem to help. Nitrates are at 8ppm phosphate is at 0.03 . I turned down lights to 50% of original intensity.
sorry to hear that! i didn't lose any sps during the outbreak. I think the sand bed removal helped and so did the UV. Do you have an appropriately sized uV for your tank?
@@TheBioReef I have a 8 watt rated at 55 gallons. It's a small one I keep in the sump of my red sea reefer 250. I don't know if that's too small. But I didn't want a bigger one because I was concerned it would strip beneficial bacteria from the system.
@@marcosherrera675 I used a 50 watt one. I think 8 watts is probably too small. Also, I would plumb it directly in the display. If you look at the video, you will see I had it resting on top of the overflow box. I had one little pump in the display feed it and a return tube going back to the display.
@@TheBioReef I noticed that. I'm going to buy one like yours this weekend. I'll set it up just like you set up yours. We have the same tank so I know exactly how to do it. I've been adding microbacter 7 and Dr Tim's waste away. This seems to be helping. I haven't tried hydrogen peroxide yet but I'm thinking about it in very small doses. I purchased some dinoX from fauna marin but I'm hesitant to use it. I hear it causes sps to rtn. I think what led to my problem was my nitrates dropped very quickly. Not to zero but in 2 days they dropped 5ppm so I dumped a bunch of amino acids in the tank to bring up the nutrients along with very high lighting and all this happened too quickly. You made a great video my friend. It's helping me out now in my time of need.
@@marcosherrera675 thanks and good luck. Yeah I find that aminos can be bad with fueling outbreaks / I like to raise nitrates by dosing potassium or sodium nitrate directly
I dosed Kno3 a bit a first ( a few mls per day), but then my tank was able to sustain 5 to 10 ppm nitrates without dosing. I dosed seachem flourish phosphorous, very slowly at first, 1 ml/day... it did that for a few days, slightly increasing the dose by 0.5 ml per day until i started seeing detetable levels of phosphates - it took a week or so before i started see p04. Then i reduced the dose when i hit phosphates at above 0.1 ppm; you have to test often and back off if levels get too high. Now, i only have to dose 1 ml per day to maintain my levels.
Sounds like your tank is iron limited (hence the lack of algae), have you tried testing Iron? I heard that there are other elements that can also be absent to result in high nutrient tanks with no algae. Either way, the tank looks great now!
I did do a triton test in January, which showed no detectable iron, but the triton test has a high limit of detection for iron, so it could still be present. I do have chaeto growing in my fuge, which suggests that there is iron in the water. mind you, i do still get build up of GHA on the powerheads, and i get film algae on the glass, but i have a healthy clean up crew that deal with it quickly. So not algae free, but a system where algae growth is nearly balanced with algae consumption
I've been a subscriber for sometime and when I first saw this I was grateful that during the first year of my RedSea 525 I never had to deal with Dino's. That being said I set up tank #2, a Waterbox 75 cube in early December, that is going to be SPS dominate I used only clean live rock and was off to a good start. That being said I had nearly zero nutrients, Phosphate is 0.01 (Hanna Phosphorus) and Nitrate 0.0PPM (RedSea) and started to see what I thought was diatoms on the rock, which then got longer like hair algae and then formed a bubble...you know where this is going. Tonight I confirmed its DINOS and going to begin the journey to rid my 2.5 month old tank of them using the same method you have used. Luckily I do not have a sand bed. UV is on, I will start dosing both nitrates and phosphates tomorrow. Wish me luck!!! Thanks so much for making these videos!
Do you recall how you dosed the SeaChem Flourish? I mean is their a rule like "Dosing X ml per gallon will raise Phosphate X PPM?" I'll test and go slow but did you start with the 5ml for each 60 gallons? Then daily, weekly etc as needed based on the 0.1ppm - 0.2ppm goal?
Jim Little there is a dosing recommendation on the back of the seachem bottle. I started very slowly... 1 ml per day for a couple of days... I tested every day, then gradually increased the dose by 0.5 ml per day till I stared seeing detectable readings, then tuned thing from there. Be prepared to dose a lot a first without seeing the numbers budge... for me, it took about a week to start getting consistent detectable levels
When u installed the UV in that area, did it really help vs being in the sump? I’m seeing minor traces of Dino’s and I want to deal with it before it gets out of hand. Thanks for vid
I only tried the display, so i can't comment on effectiveness of sump vs. display. i think if the turnover rate in the sump is high, then it shouldn't matter
its a lot easier to control if you dose phosphates instead of feeding more. Also, if your nutrients are not balanced (e.g. some nitrates but no phosphates), then it is easier to balance by adding phosphates than feeding (which adds both nitrates and phosphates)
Marcel Rodriguez hi marcel - don’t think you got Bryopsis from the nutrients per se, rather you likely had it in your system and then it started to take over with added nutrients. I’ve never had bryposis in my tank so can’t say much, other than I head that fluconazole can help
I can’t get rid of my Dino’s it’s been a year I’ve tried everything 😩.. my last effort is I blacked out my tank and I’m adding nitrate and phos .. I’m praying when I turn my lights on it won’t come back
but what if i want to keep my sandbad? i see some brown stuff forming on sandbad and already see some "formed" dinos in sump on return pump and glass Nitrates are 1.5 ppm phos 0.02. Everyone doing good in the tank ) but i see signs. Also what is the reason of stoping Amino acid dosing? i do dose acropower should i stop? Thank you
yes i also dosed acropower before the issues started. i stopped coral feeding altogether. you can watch the tank and assess as things progress. Your phosphates seems a bit on the low side. i would just watch things a bit and then decide on a course of action if the problem deteriorates.
@@TheBioReef yea my NO3 and PO4 sort of low so i don't understand the reason of cutting on acropower dosing and coral feeding? only dinos i saw were in my sump and some slight brown on sandbad. I stop skiming and water changes and start feeding more because i had 0.5 NO3 0.01 PO4 and ordered UV (36w) for 60gal. Hope that will be enough. Still running scrubber on reverse cycle which grow green algae hope it will outcompete dinos on early stage
amino acids are the building blocks of proteins - organisms have to spend energy to make these; supplementing your tank with amino gives organisms in your tank an advantage but that goes for both corals and pests like dinos. best to stop and make the dinos have to exert more energy making it easier for others to outcompete them
Sorry to bother you man, but just wanted to clarify all the things so I’m doing after correctly 1. Dose .5 to 1ml of phosphorous until phosphate levels are 0.2 2. Vaccine up live sand if the dinos are specifically living on the live sand 3. Make sure nitrates are atleast 5-20ppm 4. Increase feeding How about water changes, when are you supposed to start water changing again?
Karan Sidhu 1) gradually increase amount you dose until you see 0.1 ppm. Dose 0.5 ml for a few days then test. If levels are undetectable, then dose 1 ml for a few days and test. Once you start seeing 0.1, then you can cut down on the dose a bit and test again. So you are essentially using trial and testing to determine the right amount to dose. For nitrates - yes aim for 10 ppm. You can vacuum the sand if you want but you certainly don’t need to do it every day. I vacuumed once a week. I did weekly water changes (5 to 10%). If you can add a uv sterilizer than that would be great
AmroAzul TV so phosphate at .2 not .02 ? I can’t get reading on my phosphate test kit and am dealing with Cyano on bare bottoms day pale sps. Have been running algae scrubber while dosing phosphate. Have increased po4 dosing but still undetectable. Thinking about taking scrubber off but scared of having algae growing in display. Thank you for the vids. Always fun to watch
Great video! This is my newest battle! I have the seachem flourish on the way. Now I need to order a solution to boost nitrates. Will probably pull my ATS offline this week also.
pelphrey oh no, sorry to hear that man. Dinos are a PIA but they are beatable. Pm if you have any questions. UV is pretty useful; I ordered the cheap jebo 36w and ran it using a maxi jet 400 from the display
I noticed the UV and how you have it setup. I think I will start with increasing nitrate and phosphates and see what path that leads me down. Very strange out of nowhere these things popped up! I actually added a piece of dry rock to my tank a couple weeks back. I noticed a day or so later it had algae growing on it, so I pulled it from my display and put it in my sump. It's been in my sump for a few weeks now so I don't know if I should pull it out completely or just let it be now!
pelphrey yeah... odds are you had dinos lurking in your tank for a while and they just flares up because of suitable conditions and lack of competitors... it’s kinda amazing the number of tanks that I see at LFS stores that have dinos without the owners realizing... people often confuse them with cyano like I did initially
I still want to believe it is a diatom outbreak! But you are probably right about the dino's being in the system for awhile. They just found the nutrients they were looking for!
MikeTheReefer sent me to your channel. Thanks for this video. I'm fighting my 2nd round of Dino's in my Red Sea Reefer 525xl. Very helpful information. New subscriber. Thanks.
Roberto Peixinho yes, showing a bit of rust in some spots. I try to wipe them down with a damp cloth every month or so, then drying them with a towel to get rid of salt residues. Stainless steel would be the best material
I used Dino x, worked great. Iv had dinos a few time, always caused by overdosing no pox. Taking my nutrients too low. When dinos take hold it becomes a nightmare.
I just bought some neophos does anyone know how much to dose for a 100 gallon? My phosphates are at 0.05 and want to increase to about 0.1, did you notice better color and growth with adding phosphates?? I’m also dosing kno3 to keep my nitrates at around 5-10. What do you believe the best balance between nitrates and phosphates for best color and growth? My friend has his phosphates at 0.2-0.3 and his colors are amazing..
David G I don’t know how concentrated it is. I would start slow, 1 ml day, then test the next day and increase/decrease accordingly. Test often until your system becomes stable
my system is now running at about 7 ppm nitrates and 0.2 ppm phosphate and i really like the sps colors... with phosphates, you don't want to over do it, above 0.4; also look but the redfield ratio; Try to match your N:P ratio to the redfield ratio if you can
i just divide the value of nitrates by 16 or 14 (ps. most recent estimates of N:P in plankton is 14:1); so for 5 ppm nitrate, ideal would be .31 or .35 ppm phosphates; this is just a guide, you want to be close, but slight deviations are not going to be a big deal
Tonya Clark worth a try... I don’t think the sand bed removal is mandatory. You can possibly consider removing part of your sandbed, I certainly kept a patch of sand in the back of the tank for my wrasses to sleep
It will depend on your tank and consumption rates.. i started slow, 0.5 ml to 1 ml a day; i keep slowly increasing the dose every few days until i started seeing consistent detectable levels, then i slowly brought up the levels to >0.1 ppm PO4; typically, this involved adding 3 ml to of the product; eventually the levels started increasing and i backed off the dosing. My tank now maintains P04 between 0.15 and 0.2 without any dosing. My advice would be to take things slowly and test often
Oh that’s amazing! All the ones I was looking at on BRS and Marine Depot are like 2-300$ so it’s nice to know the Jebao ones actually work! Ordering it now to set up on new tank as preventative.
So I’ve been battling gha for about 3 months due to a Nitrate and phosphate spike do you think maintaining my phosphate levels above 0.1 would naturally get rid of the gha problem or make it worse? I did notice that you got gha algae due to the increase of phosphates but they went away...
David G I still don’t have visible GHA since I short the video and my nitrates are now at 8 ppm and phosphates at 0.25 ppm. But I also have a good population of grazers, including a yellow tang, 2 tuxedo urchins, 3 Mexican turbos, 12+ trochus snails and a conch. There is some views out there that balanced nutrients - redfield ratio - naturally limits algae growth. What are you parameters now and do you have enough cuc
Well over the months I’ve slowly decreased my nitrates to 5 and phosphates we’re very low, I was maintaining them around 0.2-0.3 for couple days and noticed my algae get longer by the days.. I’m currently at 0.06 idk if I should maintain them lower for now and get more clean up crew.. I bought 10 turbo snails they all died, I have couple hermits 2 emerald crabs lawn mower blenny, yellow tang, sailfin tang, fox face magnificent, they don’t seem to like the long algae I have all over my rocks.
David G i would consider adding a bunch of snails, and try a tuxedo urchin. I’ve also heard that sea hares are monster GHA eaters. Also, are you sure your are not dealing with Bryopsis (which is ignored by CUC)
AmroAzul TV sounds good I just ordered 20 snails 10 astrea,10 turbo , and two tuxido urchins. I’ve seen bryopsis online and it doesn’t look like that at all. Did you notice your sps turn brown when your increased phosphates? I’m planning on slowly rising phosphates up once I notice the cuc begin to munch on it. For that brief week that I had my phosphates elevated I notice they turned a bit more darker in color but they actually seemed really happy despite those color changes.
Removing the sand bed isn't really solving is it? Your basically just admitting defeat when you do that. The way i beat it was a two day black out while dosing dino x then brought the lights up very slowly over the next week.
Try dino X best solution to kill dino in a reef tank current setup 72 gallon mixed reef sps lps all were fine i only did three doses of 15ml two days appart
AmroAzul TV I’m one week into my nitrate dosing and levels are stable at 5ppm. My phosphate dosing is 4 days in with levels dropping from .13ppm to zero within 24hrs. So I’m dosing phosphates everyday and will continue monitoring. The Dino’s got a little worse when I started the po4 dosing. Would you say that’s normal? The corals look great but the Dino’s are hurting some corals. Thanks again for sharing your experience
yes keep dosing phosphates until the levels become stable and above 0.1 ppm... it took about a week of dosing phosphates until i got stable levels in the tank. its also normal for dinos to get a bit worst before it gets better. its called the 'ugly' phase. you can blast and siphon the dinos away from valuable corals in the mean time. also. do you know which genus of dinos you are dealing with? most dinos are sensitive to UV, so a UV sterlizer typically helps. Finally, some have reported success with adding bacteria in a bottle type products, but also pods and bits of life rock from clean established tanks - a way to boost biodiversity and increase the density of potential dino competitors
AmroAzul TV got the UV sterilizer running buts it only 18watt. It’s rated supposedly for 250g with my system only 85g. I haven’t been able to confirm the genus though but either way my tanks nutrients have been unbalance for a while now. It’s definitely going through the ugly stage. I appreciate the knowledge you’ve been sharing. Often times, people in this hobby share misinformation so it’s nice to see validated info.
Thanks. Yes there appears to be a lot of conflicting info on Dinos out there. I tried my best to talk about the range of possible treatments. Hang in there. I remember my tank looking really ugly for a good month, and i seriously considered shutting down and restarting. I am glad i didn't
Dinoflagellates is a type of phytoplankton. When I got it. I stoped water changes. Let tank get somewhat dirty. Letting other algae try to grow and out competent. Purchased copepods and Ocean Magik put them in my tank. Doses the Ocean Macik phytoplankton at twice the recommended dose each day and in 3 weeks time it was gone. Biggest thing I think is repopulating my tank with multiple organisms to set things back in balance.
thanks Cassie for letting us know about your experience
Great video! Probably the most comprehensive dino video i've seen.
sweet thanks man... love your setup BTW, and the way you mount your SPS!
AmroAzul TV thanks so much!
your corals look happy, I wish mine did.... did you have any coraline algae growing at the same time?
I really love your coral selection and diversity! You have a super sick tank man with all nice fully grown colonies! What tank is your, like how many gallons, dimension, and what light? I just basically restarted my Im 50 lagoon in march so I have only all new frag! Can't wait till everything grows out again in my tank! Ohh my light is powered by ecotechradion gen 4 pro.
Great video! Reef2Reefs forum helped me out too. I found dosing sodium silicate to promote diatoms along with Nitrate and Phosphate took care of mine. My Dino’s where in the sand so UV wouldn’t work. Diatoms and dinos do not coexist well together. Dino’s where gone after 2 weeks of dosing silicate.
interesting tip, thanks for sharing
Great information! I battled dino for about 12 months, some weeks it wasn't that bad other weeks it was terrible. I tried just about everything that was out there then the last 3 months I just let things get dirty. I removed GFO and shut off my ATS but it just got worse. I ended up rebooting the system. Looking back I think my system was stripped of no3 and po4 which caused the outbreak. I had it in my head that I needed undetectable no3/po4 and I aggressively ran GFO. Thank you for putting this info out there!
thanks Mike. Sorry to hear about your tank. hopefully by getting the information out there, reefers can think about the different ways to deal with dinos.
I installed a big oversized UV from the start this time. Mainly for algae and bacteria blooms. And I’ve avoided a lot of the ugly phase of cycling with dry rock. I think the 2 watts per gallon is off. Mine is a HO 90 watt Amalgam bulb and says rated for 900ish gallons. My tank is 300. I run it at 2000 gpm for 12 hrs and 400 gpm for 12 hrs. I have seen a lot of videos lately about Vibrance. BRS did a nice investigates on it. I hear it will wipe out Dino’s and bubble algae.
I really appreciate this video. I have had this problem off and on over the years. I have often thought of removing all sand but have never committed to go that drastic. Your corals do not look like they have suffered at all, in fact, the whole tank looks exceptional. Thank you!
Larie Walls glad you found it useful
Doesn't seachem flourish contain a small amount of copper? Did you have any issues with that?
Hi AmroZul! Thank you very much for the very informative video on Dinos. I am facing dino outbreak right now. I have a UV and am running at night. I am trying to adjust the NO3 to 5 ppm and 0.1 ppm as you specified. You mentioned Sachem Flourish. Can you please give me the exact product info or link to buy from amazon? Thank you.
www.amazon.ca/Seachem-001111-Flourish-Phosphorus-500ml/dp/B0002APIJQ/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAjw_uDsBRAMEiwAaFiHaxdjjO04nHh-yFT-HQigDqzNPOeX3uloE087zEEs7toQejcPW3oyJRoC_Z8QAvD_BwE&hvadid=254889169664&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000796&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6669347526604735164&hvtargid=kwd-341535456170&hydadcr=23307_10308533&keywords=seachem+flourish+phosphorus&qid=1570301217&sr=8-1
AmroAzul TV thank you. I went on amazon after texting you and bought both nitrate and phosphorous and am dosing as you recommended.
I never thought having 0"s straight across was even possible, however I guess it depends on load especially if you have no fish in the tank. And never heard anyone say don't go down there or your tank will be in hell. all joking aside, I Think that's the right approach raising nutrients as the zero's seem to be tell tale of the syndrome that's reported by reefers. I have cloudy water trying to keep a few corals alive as the thank is 2.5 years old. At this point a micron filter and pump will be needed to clear the water and then try raising the nutrients. thanks for the encouragement.
How do you know when to stop dosing silicates?
Hi, Thanks for sharing your experience. I have dino and cyano issues. Have been trying Vibrant for 1.5 month but it didnt work. After watching your video i decided to get my NO3 and PO4 readings and they were both at 0!!! So as per your recommendation i am going to dose the tank to start seeing increase. couple of questions: 1- Should i do water change and if so how often ? 2- should i turn my carbon/phosphate minus reactor off ? 3- Do i really need to remove the sand or should i just cleanup the cyano/dino from the surface of the sand ? Thanks alot
Kamran B good luck with the battle. I did water changes, I kept carbon on but removed phosphate media. I also removed most of my sand
@@TheBioReef Thanks for your reply. How ofter should i do water change ? once i remove the sand , does that mean i can no longer have sand bed in my tank or i can add it back once the Dino issue is solved ? Thank you for your response
Kamran B I did weekly 5% water changes ... I managed to reintroduce sand after I got my dino issue in check ... also UV sterilizer is a really useful tool in the fight
Outstanding video. You come across as very well informed. I've been battling Dino for over a year and about ready to give up the hobby. I've always had undetectable amounts of both nitrate and phosphate and it never occurred to me that that might actually be counter-productive and contributing to my Dino problem. I'll try what you suggest... to be honest I'm excited to have a new approach. Thanks much for sharing!
my pleasure; good luck with the battle!
How did you get on? Update please
Did you bail?
My tank looks the same! Perhaps I've had dinos over the past few months. I thought maybe my food had silicates in it. I've been changing my filter socks regularly and I've replaced all my rodi filters. I had thought about removing my sandbed. Maybe i'll look into a uv sterilizer.
9StickNate try to get a sample of the red stuff on the sandbed and check under a scope; you can buy some cheap ones on amazon. Would be good to get s positive ID before deciding on a treatment
Did you also manually remove the dinos from the corals?
thanks for the advice in your video🙂
i didn't 'clean' the sand per se, i just removed most of it.
I'm about to tackle this now, I have an outbreak on the sandbed and some corals have dinos latching on to them. I just got my UV sterilizer ( jebao 55 watt for a reefer 350, 90 gallon.) I noticed in your video you had 2 ways you hooked it up. Can you elaborate how I should hook up the sterilizer? I have the same pump you used to dangle off the side as well ready to hook up. Should I also do the water change? I heard this was counter intuitive. Did you blow off your rocks at certain times of the day to help the UV do its job?
V's Reef good luck with the battle. I did water changes like usual. For the Uv sterilizer, make sure that the input and out output tubes are above the UV sterilizer. So water comes in from the top, fills the entire body of the sterilize then flows up and away (ensures that no air can be trapped inside the sterilizer
V's Reef I didn’t bother blowing the rocks but I you want to, do it near lights out
Great channel! Thank you both for this info. In a similar situation with my Reefer 250. Which pump did you use for the Jebao UV sterilizer and this in DT setup?
Anandh Rajamohan just s maxijet 600; good luck with your battle
Great information in this video - my concern would be implementing a UV Sterilizer would knock out my pod populations. Any feedback?
The Clueless Reefer many things to consider here. 1. If you have a Dino outbreak, then controlling it would be my first priority vs. pods. 2) uv will not likely influence large copepods that are associated with live rock or substrate. 3) uv may reduce the population of smaller species of pods that persist in the water column... so it can have some affects on your pod diversity, but in case of s Dino outbreak, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it till Dino’s are under control
I'm battling Prorocentrum in my Reefer 250 at the moment too. Been at it for 3 months. I have raised my nitrates and phosphates, that were zero before hand, and installed a 55w UV steriliser 3 weeks ago.The tank is 80% free of dinos now but the last 20% is proving very stubborn, especially small patches on the sand. Can you explain what you mean when you mention that your UV was installed wrong?
Ok, compare the UV sterilizer at 3:15 in this video [incorrect] to the UV sterilizer at the start of this video
th-cam.com/video/oRqzWpJlqA4/w-d-xo.html [correct]. In the incorrect orientation, i was feeding the uv sterilizer from below, which means that water was not likely fully circulating in the top part of the UV. In the correct orientation, water enters the sterilizer from above, has to fill out the entire UV before exiting from the top again. Good luck with the battle... the last patches are the ones that take the longer... try to ignore them for now and keep doing what your doing; in a few more month, you may not be able to see them
Hi , I’m just stating my battle with Dino’s, my tank has been reading 0 ppm PO4 for too long wich I guess led to the outbreak. I am currently try to elevate my nutrients ( NO3 and PO4), I am over feeding but don’t really like that, I going to dose for phosphates I’ll be using Seachem Flourish Phosphorus like you did but not sure if I can also use Flourish Nitrogen for increasing Nitrates. Or what did you use.
Thanks You, Fernando.
Hi Fernando - good luck with the battle. I think you can dose flourish nitrogen, to raise nitrates, but you can also dose potassium nitrate as well
AmroAzul TV I will be dosing Flourish Phophaste and Nitrogen to increase nutrients, thank you!
@@FernandoReyes-wv2cu good luck
Your SPS are looking GREAT by the way!
9StickNate thanks man
Do I keep running bio pellets and all that once my nitrates and phosphates are up again, like dosing nitrate while removing nitrate I guess? To keep levels under control? Great looking tank btw..
i don't think you should be doing any carbon dosing (like bio pellets) for a while. just control the no3 and po4 levels by reducing dosing. if your levels are getting really high, consider growing chaeto or running an algae scrubber. good luck with the battle
This great info and makes sense All my readings are zero no ammonia nitrite or nitrates and I am new so for some time I thought they were diatoms changing water like a mad man they only get worse. I did a black out for three days and dose with peroxide 1ml per gallon not per ten gallons. I use this method when I have cyano in a fresh tank I have only a couple corals most have been put in my other tank after being dipped, so I am not going to lose all my corals, fish seem okay I have also been dosing good bacteria while the tank is darked out I have also noticed the smell has gone out of the tank Dinoflagellates do have a seafood smell to them, to me like steamed crab my tank normally smells like the ocean in BC. Tomorrow lights com back on see how my issue is after a couple of days
see if you can buy or borrow a scope to confirm. knowing is half the battle
@@TheBioReef my wife actually owns a microscope I will look at these for sure.
good luck
Great video. So why was the UV installed the wring way before? Mine is that way and I'm wondering if that's part of the reason it doesn't seem to be having a huge effect.
Kyle Riedel hi Kyle.. if the hose barbs are pointed downwards, then water may not fully fill the sterilizer, which reduces its effectiveness. But if the hose barbs are pointed upwards, then water fill go down, fully fill the sterilizer chamber, then exit upwards... jebo doesn’t come with useful instructions but I found out about correct orientation from reading the manual of fancier sterilizers. Also note that you need to use a slower flow to kill dinos; they are bigger then most bacteria and need to dwell longer in the sterilizer.
AmroAzul TV I know what I'm doing tonight! Thanks a ton.
Kyle Riedel good luck!
What up azul. I'm watching this video because I have dinos now. I'm doing everything you described in this video. My worry is my sps.. will they survive? Did you loose sps or any other corals when you had this problem? Did removal of the sand bed help? I'm running UV but it doesn't seem to help. Nitrates are at 8ppm phosphate is at 0.03 . I turned down lights to 50% of original intensity.
sorry to hear that! i didn't lose any sps during the outbreak. I think the sand bed removal helped and so did the UV. Do you have an appropriately sized uV for your tank?
@@TheBioReef I have a 8 watt rated at 55 gallons. It's a small one I keep in the sump of my red sea reefer 250. I don't know if that's too small. But I didn't want a bigger one because I was concerned it would strip beneficial bacteria from the system.
@@marcosherrera675 I used a 50 watt one. I think 8 watts is probably too small. Also, I would plumb it directly in the display. If you look at the video, you will see I had it resting on top of the overflow box. I had one little pump in the display feed it and a return tube going back to the display.
@@TheBioReef I noticed that. I'm going to buy one like yours this weekend. I'll set it up just like you set up yours. We have the same tank so I know exactly how to do it. I've been adding microbacter 7 and Dr Tim's waste away. This seems to be helping. I haven't tried hydrogen peroxide yet but I'm thinking about it in very small doses. I purchased some dinoX from fauna marin but I'm hesitant to use it. I hear it causes sps to rtn. I think what led to my problem was my nitrates dropped very quickly. Not to zero but in 2 days they dropped 5ppm so I dumped a bunch of amino acids in the tank to bring up the nutrients along with very high lighting and all this happened too quickly. You made a great video my friend. It's helping me out now in my time of need.
@@marcosherrera675 thanks and good luck. Yeah I find that aminos can be bad with fueling outbreaks / I like to raise nitrates by dosing potassium or sodium nitrate directly
Nice tank by the way! So did you use Flourish Phosphorus and Flourish Nitrogen? Also how much did you dose each day. Thanks
I dosed Kno3 a bit a first ( a few mls per day), but then my tank was able to sustain 5 to 10 ppm nitrates without dosing. I dosed seachem flourish phosphorous, very slowly at first, 1 ml/day... it did that for a few days, slightly increasing the dose by 0.5 ml per day until i started seeing detetable levels of phosphates - it took a week or so before i started see p04. Then i reduced the dose when i hit phosphates at above 0.1 ppm; you have to test often and back off if levels get too high. Now, i only have to dose 1 ml per day to maintain my levels.
Sounds like your tank is iron limited (hence the lack of algae), have you tried testing Iron? I heard that there are other elements that can also be absent to result in high nutrient tanks with no algae. Either way, the tank looks great now!
I did do a triton test in January, which showed no detectable iron, but the triton test has a high limit of detection for iron, so it could still be present. I do have chaeto growing in my fuge, which suggests that there is iron in the water. mind you, i do still get build up of GHA on the powerheads, and i get film algae on the glass, but i have a healthy clean up crew that deal with it quickly. So not algae free, but a system where algae growth is nearly balanced with algae consumption
He says (hence the lack of algae) 😂 okay mr science professor, what else did you hear?
Iron limited😂😂😂
@@matthewjames7394 thanks for your contributions.
I've been a subscriber for sometime and when I first saw this I was grateful that during the first year of my RedSea 525 I never had to deal with Dino's. That being said I set up tank #2, a Waterbox 75 cube in early December, that is going to be SPS dominate I used only clean live rock and was off to a good start. That being said I had nearly zero nutrients, Phosphate is 0.01 (Hanna Phosphorus) and Nitrate 0.0PPM (RedSea) and started to see what I thought was diatoms on the rock, which then got longer like hair algae and then formed a bubble...you know where this is going. Tonight I confirmed its DINOS and going to begin the journey to rid my 2.5 month old tank of them using the same method you have used. Luckily I do not have a sand bed. UV is on, I will start dosing both nitrates and phosphates tomorrow. Wish me luck!!! Thanks so much for making these videos!
Jim Little sorry to hear that Jim. It is beatable so good luck with the battle!
Do you recall how you dosed the SeaChem Flourish? I mean is their a rule like "Dosing X ml per gallon will raise Phosphate X PPM?" I'll test and go slow but did you start with the 5ml for each 60 gallons? Then daily, weekly etc as needed based on the 0.1ppm - 0.2ppm goal?
Jim Little there is a dosing recommendation on the back of the seachem bottle. I started very slowly... 1 ml per day for a couple of days... I tested every day, then gradually increased the dose by 0.5 ml per day till I stared seeing detectable readings, then tuned thing from there. Be prepared to dose a lot a first without seeing the numbers budge... for me, it took about a week to start getting consistent detectable levels
Thank you! Last question, did you dose "SeaChem Flourish" or "SeaChem Flourish Phosphorus"?
Jim Little flourish phosphorus
When u installed the UV in that area, did it really help vs being in the sump? I’m seeing minor traces of Dino’s and I want to deal with it before it gets out of hand. Thanks for vid
I only tried the display, so i can't comment on effectiveness of sump vs. display. i think if the turnover rate in the sump is high, then it shouldn't matter
@@TheBioReef What brand name Uv sterilizer did you use against the dino?
Fletcher Wright jebo from Amazon
The big question is why to dose phosphate instead or feeding more or add more fish?
its a lot easier to control if you dose phosphates instead of feeding more. Also, if your nutrients are not balanced (e.g. some nitrates but no phosphates), then it is easier to balance by adding phosphates than feeding (which adds both nitrates and phosphates)
I got bryopsis from dosing nutriets, dinos are gone but now i gotta dose fluconazole which i have before and caused dinos again. What do you suggest?
Marcel Rodriguez hi marcel - don’t think you got Bryopsis from the nutrients per se, rather you likely had it in your system and then it started to take over with added nutrients. I’ve never had bryposis in my tank so can’t say much, other than I head that fluconazole can help
I can’t get rid of my Dino’s it’s been a year I’ve tried everything 😩.. my last effort is I blacked out my tank and I’m adding nitrate and phos .. I’m praying when I turn my lights on it won’t come back
Could you please make a video about cyanobacteria outbreak ? thanks
Correction, pronounced, " DY-nohs"., Thank you for the tutorial. Sound advice.
thanks Alex
Did u perform any water changes during the purposely dirty dosing with phosphorous and nitrate?
yes i did regular water changes during this period
but what if i want to keep my sandbad? i see some brown stuff forming on sandbad and already see some "formed" dinos in sump on return pump and glass Nitrates are 1.5 ppm phos 0.02. Everyone doing good in the tank ) but i see signs. Also what is the reason of stoping Amino acid dosing? i do dose acropower should i stop? Thank you
yes i also dosed acropower before the issues started. i stopped coral feeding altogether. you can watch the tank and assess as things progress. Your phosphates seems a bit on the low side. i would just watch things a bit and then decide on a course of action if the problem deteriorates.
@@TheBioReef yea my NO3 and PO4 sort of low so i don't understand the reason of cutting on acropower dosing and coral feeding? only dinos i saw were in my sump and some slight brown on sandbad. I stop skiming and water changes and start feeding more because i had 0.5 NO3 0.01 PO4 and ordered UV (36w) for 60gal. Hope that will be enough. Still running scrubber on reverse cycle which grow green algae hope it will outcompete dinos on early stage
amino acids are the building blocks of proteins - organisms have to spend energy to make these; supplementing your tank with amino gives organisms in your tank an advantage but that goes for both corals and pests like dinos. best to stop and make the dinos have to exert more energy making it easier for others to outcompete them
thank you ! @@TheBioReef
Sorry to bother you man, but just wanted to clarify all the things so I’m doing after correctly
1. Dose .5 to 1ml of phosphorous until phosphate levels are 0.2
2. Vaccine up live sand if the dinos are specifically living on the live sand
3. Make sure nitrates are atleast 5-20ppm
4. Increase feeding
How about water changes, when are you supposed to start water changing again?
Karan Sidhu 1) gradually increase amount you dose until you see 0.1 ppm. Dose 0.5 ml for a few days then test. If levels are undetectable, then dose 1 ml for a few days and test. Once you start seeing 0.1, then you can cut down on the dose a bit and test again. So you are essentially using trial and testing to determine the right amount to dose. For nitrates - yes aim for 10 ppm. You can vacuum the sand if you want but you certainly don’t need to do it every day. I vacuumed once a week. I did weekly water changes (5 to 10%). If you can add a uv sterilizer than that would be great
AmroAzul TV so phosphate at .2 not .02 ? I can’t get reading on my phosphate test kit and am dealing with Cyano on bare bottoms day pale sps. Have been running algae scrubber while dosing phosphate. Have increased po4 dosing but still undetectable. Thinking about taking scrubber off but scared of having algae growing in display. Thank you for the vids. Always fun to watch
Great video! This is my newest battle! I have the seachem flourish on the way. Now I need to order a solution to boost nitrates. Will probably pull my ATS offline this week also.
pelphrey oh no, sorry to hear that man. Dinos are a PIA but they are beatable. Pm if you have any questions. UV is pretty useful; I ordered the cheap jebo 36w and ran it using a maxi jet 400 from the display
I noticed the UV and how you have it setup. I think I will start with increasing nitrate and phosphates and see what path that leads me down. Very strange out of nowhere these things popped up! I actually added a piece of dry rock to my tank a couple weeks back. I noticed a day or so later it had algae growing on it, so I pulled it from my display and put it in my sump. It's been in my sump for a few weeks now so I don't know if I should pull it out completely or just let it be now!
pelphrey yeah... odds are you had dinos lurking in your tank for a while and they just flares up because of suitable conditions and lack of competitors... it’s kinda amazing the number of tanks that I see at LFS stores that have dinos without the owners realizing... people often confuse them with cyano like I did initially
I still want to believe it is a diatom outbreak! But you are probably right about the dino's being in the system for awhile. They just found the nutrients they were looking for!
pelphrey get a cheap scope from amazon or borrow one and have a look under the scope... diatoms will have irregular shapes and will be small
MikeTheReefer sent me to your channel. Thanks for this video. I'm fighting my 2nd round of Dino's in my Red Sea Reefer 525xl. Very helpful information. New subscriber. Thanks.
Reefkpr glad you found it useful and thanks for subscribing. Good luck with the battle!
Best video on Dinos... Great work.
Sc00teX thanks!
Hi? Do the aquarium closet hinges get rusty? Which are the best hinges to prevent rust ? thank you.
Roberto Peixinho yes, showing a bit of rust in some spots. I try to wipe them down with a damp cloth every month or so, then drying them with a towel to get rid of salt residues. Stainless steel would be the best material
Roberto Peixinho stainless steel would be best
Did you dose nitrate too? Thanks!!
Tulio Marques yes
AmroAzul TV which product do you recommend? Thanks!
I got rid of all my sand because of dino's. My outbreak is really bad and looks eactly like yours.
I used Dino x, worked great. Iv had dinos a few time, always caused by overdosing no pox. Taking my nutrients too low. When dinos take hold it becomes a nightmare.
Jamie Skinner glad the dino x worked for you, thanks for sharing
I just bought some neophos does anyone know how much to dose for a 100 gallon? My phosphates are at 0.05 and want to increase to about 0.1, did you notice better color and growth with adding phosphates?? I’m also dosing kno3 to keep my nitrates at around 5-10. What do you believe the best balance between nitrates and phosphates for best color and growth? My friend has his phosphates at 0.2-0.3 and his colors are amazing..
David G I don’t know how concentrated it is. I would start slow, 1 ml day, then test the next day and increase/decrease accordingly. Test often until your system becomes stable
Okay thanks, just tested my phosphates and they’re at 1ppb 0.003!! No wonder my corals still look pale despite the nitrates being at 5-10ppm
my system is now running at about 7 ppm nitrates and 0.2 ppm phosphate and i really like the sps colors... with phosphates, you don't want to over do it, above 0.4; also look but the redfield ratio; Try to match your N:P ratio to the redfield ratio if you can
How do you match that I know it’s 16:1 how do you calculate it? Not that great at math lol
i just divide the value of nitrates by 16 or 14 (ps. most recent estimates of N:P in plankton is 14:1); so for 5 ppm nitrate, ideal would be .31 or .35 ppm phosphates; this is just a guide, you want to be close, but slight deviations are not going to be a big deal
Hello there
If we add UV , is it good for Acropora ?
Thanks
i didn't have any issues when i was running the UV with my acropora
Removed my sand bed along with other tx.👍🏾
De Reefer good luck
Whats the lil bubbles on back wall
gas released by Dinos getting trapped on algae on the back wall
@@TheBioReef that's what I'm seeing on my rocks... I used to much chemi pure blue uugghh
@@shawnphillips4772 sorry to hear that. Could also be Cyano as they also release gases they can build up
I have this atm. It usually goes away on its own.
Really awesome! Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
My tank have Dinos are Dinos flagellates inside my tank now... I'm batting them now..... I have not tuned my light on yet....
Can I dose my tank nitrates, run the sterilizer and stop acropower dosing and not remove my sandbed? I have a sand sitting gobie and mandrian
Tonya Clark worth a try... I don’t think the sand bed removal is mandatory. You can possibly consider removing part of your sandbed, I certainly kept a patch of sand in the back of the tank for my wrasses to sleep
Is there anything that can eat that ?
not that i am aware of
How much of the phosphous do u dose, I bought the sachem Flouros phosphorous..my tank is a 30gallon
It will depend on your tank and consumption rates.. i started slow, 0.5 ml to 1 ml a day; i keep slowly increasing the dose every few days until i started seeing consistent detectable levels, then i slowly brought up the levels to >0.1 ppm PO4; typically, this involved adding 3 ml to of the product; eventually the levels started increasing and i backed off the dosing. My tank now maintains P04 between 0.15 and 0.2 without any dosing. My advice would be to take things slowly and test often
What UV Sterilizer is this?
JCasper generic 35w sterilizer from Amazon ... jebo perhaps
Oh that’s amazing! All the ones I was looking at on BRS and Marine Depot are like 2-300$ so it’s nice to know the Jebao ones actually work! Ordering it now to set up on new tank as preventative.
JCasper yeAh I wasn’t sure if I wanted to shell out the $ on a fancy sterilizer... also the fancier ones tend to have a much bigger footprint
So I’ve been battling gha for about 3 months due to a Nitrate and phosphate spike do you think maintaining my phosphate levels above 0.1 would naturally get rid of the gha problem or make it worse? I did notice that you got gha algae due to the increase of phosphates but they went away...
David G I still don’t have visible GHA since I short the video and my nitrates are now at 8 ppm and phosphates at 0.25 ppm. But I also have a good population of grazers, including a yellow tang, 2 tuxedo urchins, 3 Mexican turbos, 12+ trochus snails and a conch. There is some views out there that balanced nutrients - redfield ratio - naturally limits algae growth. What are you parameters now and do you have enough cuc
Well over the months I’ve slowly decreased my nitrates to 5 and phosphates we’re very low, I was maintaining them around 0.2-0.3 for couple days and noticed my algae get longer by the days.. I’m currently at 0.06 idk if I should maintain them lower for now and get more clean up crew.. I bought 10 turbo snails they all died, I have couple hermits 2 emerald crabs lawn mower blenny, yellow tang, sailfin tang, fox face magnificent, they don’t seem to like the long algae I have all over my rocks.
David G i would consider adding a bunch of snails, and try a tuxedo urchin. I’ve also heard that sea hares are monster GHA eaters. Also, are you sure your are not dealing with Bryopsis (which is ignored by CUC)
AmroAzul TV sounds good I just ordered 20 snails 10 astrea,10 turbo , and two tuxido urchins. I’ve seen bryopsis online and it doesn’t look like that at all. Did you notice your sps turn brown when your increased phosphates? I’m planning on slowly rising phosphates up once I notice the cuc begin to munch on it. For that brief week that I had my phosphates elevated I notice they turned a bit more darker in color but they actually seemed really happy despite those color changes.
David G my sps looked the best with p04 at 0.2 to 0.3...
Removing the sand bed isn't really solving is it? Your basically just admitting defeat when you do that. The way i beat it was a two day black out while dosing dino x then brought the lights up very slowly over the next week.
Try dino X best solution to kill dino in a reef tank current setup 72 gallon mixed reef sps lps all were fine i only did three doses of 15ml two days appart
Great job!!
Thanks!
Did you go WC during the treatment?
i did - weekly 5% water change
I’m siphoning the dinos daily into a 10 micron sock in order to keep them in check while dosing No3 and Po4. Coral coloration is insane!
TheErtsj wow that sounds like a lot of work... uv sterilizer ?
AmroAzul TV Not really much work. I shut off the power head and siphon the tank into the sump with the hose going into the sock
Did you dose phosphates to increase biodiversity in the battle against Dino?
i did. i dosed seachem flourish phosphorus
AmroAzul TV I’m one week into my nitrate dosing and levels are stable at 5ppm. My phosphate dosing is 4 days in with levels dropping from .13ppm to zero within 24hrs. So I’m dosing phosphates everyday and will continue monitoring. The Dino’s got a little worse when I started the po4 dosing. Would you say that’s normal? The corals look great but the Dino’s are hurting some corals. Thanks again for sharing your experience
yes keep dosing phosphates until the levels become stable and above 0.1 ppm... it took about a week of dosing phosphates until i got stable levels in the tank. its also normal for dinos to get a bit worst before it gets better. its called the 'ugly' phase. you can blast and siphon the dinos away from valuable corals in the mean time. also. do you know which genus of dinos you are dealing with? most dinos are sensitive to UV, so a UV sterlizer typically helps. Finally, some have reported success with adding bacteria in a bottle type products, but also pods and bits of life rock from clean established tanks - a way to boost biodiversity and increase the density of potential dino competitors
AmroAzul TV got the UV sterilizer running buts it only 18watt. It’s rated supposedly for 250g with my system only 85g. I haven’t been able to confirm the genus though but either way my tanks nutrients have been unbalance for a while now. It’s definitely going through the ugly stage. I appreciate the knowledge you’ve been sharing. Often times, people in this hobby share misinformation so it’s nice to see validated info.
Thanks. Yes there appears to be a lot of conflicting info on Dinos out there. I tried my best to talk about the range of possible treatments. Hang in there. I remember my tank looking really ugly for a good month, and i seriously considered shutting down and restarting. I am glad i didn't
If the fishies were swimming free in the sea, they wouldn't have dinos, would they?
they would still be there but kept in check
smh
Try vibrant
No thanks... I tried vibrant once and got this bad dino infection 😂😰😅
Vibrance
Looks exactly like my sand bed 😩
:( but the battle can be won!
Check water source. Phosphates
Hello uv 55 w elimina los dinoflagelado
acuario marino y mas Claro! Gracias
yo lo tengo puesto cuando tendria que dejarlo un mes o mas
dinos pronounce as die no
You didnt cycle your tank properly.
Nice info. Most of your research was likely reading only I’m guessing..
..unless you also pronounce ‘Dinosaurs’...’Deeno-sors’.(?)..Cheers