Thank you for this useful video. Would you consider doing one on how you film using the non-reflex Bolex camera because there's nothing on the Internet on this - most videos and articles are about the reflex model.
Thank you. I have a Bolex H16 Leader (non-reflex) and this helped. My top viewfinder seems off. The square is too high up for the peephole. Do you have the same problem? Also, should the top spool move when you run the motor without film inside? My top spool stays stationary.
Such a great video Jordan, cannot thank you enough! I just picked up one of these non reflex cameras myself and have one query.. Do you know what the shutter angle of this model is?
There's no point in rewinding the movie once it's shot! That crank is for mixing and double exposure. You shoot and look at the counter how many frames were shot. Then, with the crank, rewind as many frames as you want to shoot another scene on top of the first one. It's one of the many possibilities for tricks you can do by shooting a length of film more than once. can use masks, animation and, in animation the frame counter is very important to know how many frames you clicked. So your explanation is wrong.
@@JordanLewinVideos Another important detail, when you shoot, you are exposing the film with 100% exposure. If you shoot another scene on top of the first one, you'll get 200% exposure! super exposed. So you need to lower an f stop. If the meter is at f16, you set it to f11, so the exposure is at 50%. doing another scene on top of the first with the same f11, make 50% more and the exposure will be at 100%. If the other scene is shot on a black background, then it doesn't need any compensation.
Can you just take the receiving spool straight to the lab? Is there a problem with having the sprockets on the other side? Im having trouble rewinding and I just want to take to simplify things
Puppie Krammer There is one thing I forgot to mention in the video. Rewinding the film to the top spool after shooting is _only_ necessary if not all of the film gets exposed after shooting. However, it would be correct to remove the bottom spool if all of the film does get exposed after shooting.
I rewind the film in mine because if I shot something I want to keep, Rewinding helps to protect the last bit of exposed film from the light because that initial footage was already ruined when loading the camera.
@@stephenstone5234 I don't think you understand him. He's asking how would you know what's in focus if you're using a non reflex viewfinder that won't show you the focusing of the camera???
Use the finder on top with the lens in the top position, then move the lens to the middle position to shoot. Also there is a mark (a line (|) ) you can use with a measuring tape. Keep in mind if you're shooting with higher f stop, the focus is less critical. Most lenses will indicate the level of crticalness with lines as you change the aperture. So shooting at f8 is far less critical than shooting at f2.8...
I start by putting the lens up top and opening up the aperture all the way, focus, then move the aperature to where I will be using to see the level of how critical it will be...
Another trick is to have 2 of the same lens, one on top, one over the gate. set focus on top (with aperture wide open) then copy that to the other lens. :)
Hi, you seem to have left out some important steps between 16 and 17 in your guide to loading... like, actually running the film through the loop formers and the gate :) Whoops! Great video, though.
At the 9:10 mark you show adjusting the focus with the small knob. That is not totally correct and in fact not what it is at all. It is meant to adjust your eye to the ground glass NOT the lens. Take the lens OFF the camera, look at a bright light and adjust with the small knob so the grain in the ground glass is in focus then I suggest putting a small piece of black tape over it so it does not move THEN attach the lens and focus the lens. If you do not focus the ground glass first, and only use that to focus the lens, you will never get it right except by sheer luck. Focus the ground glass like you would change the diopter on a modern camera THEN focus the lens. That is that dial is for.
Hey Raymond! I found this response very informative even if it did pass over my head a little.. Would you be able to explain the best focusing method in layman's terms for me? Thanks so much x
@@HelpUsSaveLives Thanks so much. One last question if it isn't a pain.. why is the cap on the diopter held shut with a screw and is it safe to shoot film without the cap on?
Hello, I just stumbled upon this video while looking around for H16 info. I’m the guy that just bought some camera cases from you. Thanks for your input about this video. Certain basics of non-reflex focusing and recording are frequently missed by most younger folks these days.
You are a life-saver. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the non-reflex model. I appreciate it.
This videos has helped me more then you know Thankyou
Thank you for this useful video. Would you consider doing one on how you film using the non-reflex Bolex camera because there's nothing on the Internet on this - most videos and articles are about the reflex model.
Thank you. I have a Bolex H16 Leader (non-reflex) and this helped. My top viewfinder seems off. The square is too high up for the peephole. Do you have the same problem? Also, should the top spool move when you run the motor without film inside? My top spool stays stationary.
Can I use single perf films?
Such a great video Jordan, cannot thank you enough! I just picked up one of these non reflex cameras myself and have one query.. Do you know what the shutter angle of this model is?
Before serial number 100401, the H16 has a 170 degree aperture shutter
There's no point in rewinding the movie once it's shot! That crank is for mixing and double exposure. You shoot and look at the counter how many frames were shot. Then, with the crank, rewind as many frames as you want to shoot another scene on top of the first one. It's one of the many possibilities for tricks you can do by shooting a length of film more than once. can use masks, animation and, in animation the frame counter is very important to know how many frames you clicked. So your explanation is wrong.
Thanks for sharing! I’ll definitely keep that in mind the next time I shoot with this camera.
@@JordanLewinVideos Another important detail, when you shoot, you are exposing the film with 100% exposure. If you shoot another scene on top of the first one, you'll get 200% exposure! super exposed. So you need to lower an f stop. If the meter is at f16, you set it to f11, so the exposure is at 50%. doing another scene on top of the first with the same f11, make 50% more and the exposure will be at 100%. If the other scene is shot on a black background, then it doesn't need any compensation.
Can you just take the receiving spool straight to the lab? Is there a problem with having the sprockets on the other side? Im having trouble rewinding and I just want to take to simplify things
why would you rewind the film after shooting? I'm used to taking out the lower spool with the finished film on it
Puppie Krammer There is one thing I forgot to mention in the video. Rewinding the film to the top spool after shooting is _only_ necessary if not all of the film gets exposed after shooting. However, it would be correct to remove the bottom spool if all of the film does get exposed after shooting.
ah, that's smart, thank you very much!
I rewind the film in mine because if I shot something I want to keep, Rewinding helps to protect the last bit of exposed film from the light because that initial footage was already ruined when loading the camera.
These spools only handles 100ft of film right?
Yes
Hey how does adjusting the viewfinder focus adjust the focus on the lens? Since the focus adjust dial is not connected to the lens?
You focus the lens you are looking through then move it into place
@@stephenstone5234 I don't think you understand him. He's asking how would you know what's in focus if you're using a non reflex viewfinder that won't show you the focusing of the camera???
Can you use an electric motor on this model?
Why would you need to rewind to the original spool . . . isn't it the same as the daylight spool?
A trick: watch series at flixzone. I've been using them for watching loads of movies recently.
@Maurice Brock Definitely, I have been using flixzone for years myself =)
@Maurice Brock definitely, I've been using flixzone for since december myself =)
@Maurice Brock Definitely, been using flixzone for since december myself :D
@Maurice Brock Yup, I've been watching on Flixzone for months myself :D
Question is, how the hell do you focus accurately on a non reflex 16mm camera without knowing what's in focus or not???
Use the finder on top with the lens in the top position, then move the lens to the middle position to shoot. Also there is a mark (a line (|) ) you can use with a measuring tape. Keep in mind if you're shooting with higher f stop, the focus is less critical. Most lenses will indicate the level of crticalness with lines as you change the aperture. So shooting at f8 is far less critical than shooting at f2.8...
I start by putting the lens up top and opening up the aperture all the way, focus, then move the aperature to where I will be using to see the level of how critical it will be...
Another trick is to have 2 of the same lens, one on top, one over the gate. set focus on top (with aperture wide open) then copy that to the other lens. :)
I stands for Instantaneous is you were still wondering
Hi, you seem to have left out some important steps between 16 and 17 in your guide to loading... like, actually running the film through the loop formers and the gate :) Whoops! Great video, though.
I actually did include those steps at 15:19 in the video.
Of course! I was just pointing out that they were missing in the written checklist. The video is awesome.
Hello, incredible video :) How much did you pay for this one ?
I purchased this from Ebay for about $200.
Can you trust to top viewfinder on a Reflex Bolex?
At the 9:10 mark you show adjusting the focus with the small knob. That is not totally correct and in fact not what it is at all. It is meant to adjust your eye to the ground glass NOT the lens. Take the lens OFF the camera, look at a bright light and adjust with the small knob so the grain in the ground glass is in focus then I suggest putting a small piece of black tape over it so it does not move THEN attach the lens and focus the lens. If you do not focus the ground glass first, and only use that to focus the lens, you will never get it right except by sheer luck. Focus the ground glass like you would change the diopter on a modern camera THEN focus the lens. That is that dial is for.
Hey Raymond! I found this response very informative even if it did pass over my head a little.. Would you be able to explain the best focusing method in layman's terms for me? Thanks so much x
@@jamesblobo9947 set the diopter focus first, then the lens, then rack 90 degrees to taking gate. Google and TH-cam for more info.
@@HelpUsSaveLives Thanks so much. One last question if it isn't a pain.. why is the cap on the diopter held shut with a screw and is it safe to shoot film without the cap on?
Hello, I just stumbled upon this video while looking around for H16 info. I’m the guy that just bought some camera cases from you. Thanks for your input about this video. Certain basics of non-reflex focusing and recording are frequently missed by most younger folks these days.
Hey Raymond, quick question. My top viewfinder seems off. The square is too high up for the peephole. Is that normal or should I look for a new one?
i sell my bolex16 mm. but not working condition anybody want this vintage cam