Bummer Chris! Humidity is my nemesis! Also, warm your cans in a few inches of warm water because you paint your top coats. The paint flows much smoother. Good luck! 😎👍
Humidity can cause issues almost every time. I use Tamiya cans so it takes about 3 coats. One base light coat. A second coat to make sure you have everything covered. And a third coat to get an even paint job all across the model. I paint outside in the bright sun - that way I can see highs and lows (glossy sections vs. not so glossy) in the paint coverage. If the model is molded in white, and the mold lines are minimal (aka a Japanese kit usually) I shoot the paint right over the bare plastic. It's been my experience that some companies, like Moebius, seem to use a lot of mold release on their kits so I wash those bodies (and body parts) before painting. If any of this helps you.
One good thing to have in the model hobby is a dedicated place to spray your models... Even with spray cans it helps to control your enviroment even if its just a little... And I'll say it again soft scrub or Go Jo hand soap as a final wash gives you an ultra clean body with no shiney spots and a last minute wipe down with a glasses lens wipe which has isoproyl alcohol takes care of in finger oils that might have gotten on the body.... Its basically a routine you get into and once you have your own personal one you stick to it and become consistant at your paint jobs.
Maaan do I feel your pain! I live in Tennessee and most of the time the humidity is awful. I don’t have a dedicated paint area, so I’ve tried getting everything prepared, no worries about having to heat the paint up, that pretty much takes care of itself when I sit the cans out on our patio table in the sun for a few minutes. I paint in my shed and I try to paint my bodies, run back in the house with em and sit em on my model table, even though my wife complains about the smell. I’ve tried lacquer, enamel, polystyrene, and even Dupli-Color paints, Tamiya, Testors. I’ve really had pretty good success with Dupli-Color but it’s kinda expensive. I’ve thought about getting an airbrush system but it just seems like there’s a lot of trouble to them, mixing, thinning, hardener, cleaning. And honestly, I’m not nearly good enough to think about entering any contests, so I just do the best I can and my granddaughter thinks that they look awesome. That’s all the awards I need. Typed all that to say this. With my painting, it’s generally a crapshoot, Don Yoast (SP?) said ain’t nothing that can’t be fixed.
I got back into the hobby after 25 years. I used to use rattle cans alot. The problem I found was that Formulas have changed. The solution I used was using testors enamel bottled paint. I used some home depot laquer thinner, which by the way is different here in socal due to AQMD laws.In your state it will actual be better quality. I will soak the bodies in Dawn, dry with a microfiber towel. I bought a Paashe H single action air brush ( daul action airbrushes are harder to clean) and is simple to use. I mix the testors 50/50 withe the lacquer thinner. I also use the bigger needle because it lays down like a can. I don't use primer on the bodies with this method. three coats. It will dry pretty fast in about two days. It is cheaper to do this. 3 bucks for a bottle of testors, I use about three bottles, and the home depot lacquer thinner is about 10 bucks. The airbrush was about 70 bucks, hope this helps! And they come out glossy with the gloss paint, no need to clear them.
My painting has improved immensely after getting a good airbrush and learning how to thin the paints. Also, the discipline to wash with Dawn and degrease the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and not touching them with bare fingers before final clear coat. Good luck with your endeavors.
Man, that sucks! I feel your pain though, I seem to excel at junky paint jobs. I'll have 4 not so good and one nice one. Drives me crazy, but I do know it's my own doing.
I got an airbrush because of similar situations and not having a specific area other than standing in the yard to paint. I use Tamiya more than any other brand and airbrushing is alot easier to correct while painting. I have had fingerprints while wet and just spray through them and the self leveling would correct itself, even runs or pooling can be moved around while wet. Most of the time I use the X 20a and retarder if nessesary because other thinners will change the color. Dawn dish detergent is my prep wether primed or not. I have had more negative outcomes with spray cans than positive, especially Testors more so than Tamiya. I had bought a bunch of Testors when Hobby Lobby had their Model Masters clearance and all but 2 cans got pinholes and leaked out. Dont get to discouraged, just about every model body I paint something goes wrong and dust, dirt, etc is normal part of the process.
Thanks for subscribing, I really do appreciate that!! I always got stuff going on on this page! I've always washed my models with dawn dish soap, let me soak and scrub them off, never had any issues. I primer everything before starting. I'm careful painting with the humidity, but I know the paint can get finicky if it doesn't like it. I feel like recently I've a few too many issues recently, kinda a bummer but I know I'll make it thru.
Bummer Chris! Humidity is my nemesis! Also, warm your cans in a few inches of warm water because you paint your top coats. The paint flows much smoother. Good luck! 😎👍
Always do with my cans. I'm careful when I spray but I know the paint is finicky with the humidity.
Humidity can cause issues almost every time. I use Tamiya cans so it takes about 3 coats. One base light coat. A second coat to make sure you have everything covered. And a third coat to get an even paint job all across the model. I paint outside in the bright sun - that way I can see highs and lows (glossy sections vs. not so glossy) in the paint coverage. If the model is molded in white, and the mold lines are minimal (aka a Japanese kit usually) I shoot the paint right over the bare plastic. It's been my experience that some companies, like Moebius, seem to use a lot of mold release on their kits so I wash those bodies (and body parts) before painting. If any of this helps you.
One good thing to have in the model hobby is a dedicated place to spray your models... Even with spray cans it helps to control your enviroment even if its just a little... And I'll say it again soft scrub or Go Jo hand soap as a final wash gives you an ultra clean body with no shiney spots and a last minute wipe down with a glasses lens wipe which has isoproyl alcohol takes care of in finger oils that might have gotten on the body.... Its basically a routine you get into and once you have your own personal one you stick to it and become consistant at your paint jobs.
I've always had good luck with dawn dish soap. Let the models soak for while. Always worked. Maybe I'm just in a bad luck rut.
Maaan do I feel your pain! I live in Tennessee and most of the time the humidity is awful. I don’t have a dedicated paint area, so I’ve tried getting everything prepared, no worries about having to heat the paint up, that pretty much takes care of itself when I sit the cans out on our patio table in the sun for a few minutes. I paint in my shed and I try to paint my bodies, run back in the house with em and sit em on my model table, even though my wife complains about the smell. I’ve tried lacquer, enamel, polystyrene, and even Dupli-Color paints, Tamiya, Testors. I’ve really had pretty good success with Dupli-Color but it’s kinda expensive. I’ve thought about getting an airbrush system but it just seems like there’s a lot of trouble to them, mixing, thinning, hardener, cleaning. And honestly, I’m not nearly good enough to think about entering any contests, so I just do the best I can and my granddaughter thinks that they look awesome. That’s all the awards I need. Typed all that to say this. With my painting, it’s generally a crapshoot, Don Yoast (SP?) said ain’t nothing that can’t be fixed.
Humidity bro. Get ya ery timez! 👊🏻🐾
I try to spray at good times,but I know it plays into the game.
😔
👍 I'm hoping to make things work
I got back into the hobby after 25 years. I used to use rattle cans alot. The problem I found was that Formulas have changed. The solution I used was using testors enamel bottled paint. I used some home depot laquer thinner, which by the way is different here in socal due to AQMD laws.In your state it will actual be better quality. I will soak the bodies in Dawn, dry with a microfiber towel. I bought a Paashe H single action air brush ( daul action airbrushes are harder to clean) and is simple to use. I mix the testors 50/50 withe the lacquer thinner. I also use the bigger needle because it lays down like a can. I don't use primer on the bodies with this method. three coats. It will dry pretty fast in about two days. It is cheaper to do this. 3 bucks for a bottle of testors, I use about three bottles, and the home depot lacquer thinner is about 10 bucks. The airbrush was about 70 bucks, hope this helps! And they come out glossy with the gloss paint, no need to clear them.
My painting has improved immensely after getting a good airbrush and learning how to thin the paints. Also, the discipline to wash with Dawn and degrease the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and not touching them with bare fingers before final clear coat. Good luck with your endeavors.
Thank you. I'm strictly a rattle can guy just in a bad luck rut. I'm gonna get thru it, we all do eventually
Man, that sucks! I feel your pain though, I seem to excel at junky paint jobs. I'll have 4 not so good and one nice one. Drives me crazy, but I do know it's my own doing.
I was having a bad streak there, got way too frustrated. Luckily the next few turned out good!!!! Builders slump I guess
Bummer Chris.
It is when it happens, luckily I was able to make them work out!!!!
I got an airbrush because of similar situations and not having a specific area other than standing in the yard to paint. I use Tamiya more than any other brand and airbrushing is alot easier to correct while painting. I have had fingerprints while wet and just spray through them and the self leveling would correct itself, even runs or pooling can be moved around while wet. Most of the time I use the X 20a and retarder if nessesary because other thinners will change the color. Dawn dish detergent is my prep wether primed or not. I have had more negative outcomes with spray cans than positive, especially Testors more so than Tamiya. I had bought a bunch of Testors when Hobby Lobby had their Model Masters clearance and all but 2 cans got pinholes and leaked out.
Dont get to discouraged, just about every model body I paint something goes wrong and dust, dirt, etc is normal part of the process.
Just subscribed...are you cleaning it with Simple Green before you paint or primer first?
Thanks for subscribing, I really do appreciate that!! I always got stuff going on on this page! I've always washed my models with dawn dish soap, let me soak and scrub them off, never had any issues. I primer everything before starting. I'm careful painting with the humidity, but I know the paint can get finicky if it doesn't like it. I feel like recently I've a few too many issues recently, kinda a bummer but I know I'll make it thru.
You can wet sand with 800 grit after paint to repaint the area?
I love the Shelbys
They were classics!!! Big fan of the fastbacks
@@carouselofcrazychrisb me too
Could be the weather?
Very well could be, but I'm always careful on that. It's just weird that it's been a few lately after not having issues for a long time.