Simply amazing, reminds me of my first printer. I had a C64 printing graphics to a 9 pin dot matrix printer. It literally took an hour to print out a turtle graphic 9x10" on a single sheet of paper in low resolution. I thought back then that instead of using the God aweful slow serial bus on the Commodore 64 that they could have interfaced a printer thought the User's interface, being its an 8 bit bus. Curious to me why that bus was ignored by developers.
You make great videos that are very instructive. Thanks! I'd be interested in learning about the mechanical build components. The way you use bearings, the reason for the nuts around the bearings, the play of the threaded rod (it visibily fluctuates around its axis).
you're totally amazing, each of your works are incredibly innovative and very creative. Every work of yours I learn new things! I love your work! Keep it up!
How do you think, this project will make it to success? reprap.org/wiki/Scratchbuilt_Piezo_Printhead reprap.org/wiki/Reprappable-inkjet forums.reprap.org/read.php?153,52959
Thanks so much for teaching this stuff. Mechathronic is a very interesating thing to study!! I Always wanted to build my own cnc, i even scrap some steppers from copy machines, but i didn't found a realiable way to build linear guides.
it is very interesting to see your videos and the way you use scrap material that usually got thrown away in this society. great videos :-). Friendly greetings, Jörgen
thanks for the video and for the dedication soy de Argentina me gustaria un video en español ya que mi ingles no es tan bueno... I congratulate you !!!
really like your videos ☺ (especially the CNC ones). funny thing about this one is that, with this paint delivering method, you basically created the prototype of an automated tattooing machine 😉.
Line strip in printer is used for speed control. I always thought that is used for position but when I disconnect sensor carriage start to move very fast. I try to measure frequency on drum line strip and it was 20khz.
When removing the sensor stripe, no position pulses are received, thus the microcontroller assumes the motor doesn't move, which is why it raises power to maximum and that's why the carriage starts moving with full speed.
for people who are getting scribbling like drawings from DVD step-motor CNC plotter machine, i give you correct and proven changes for proper out put, try it and get corrected! (01) most people with "baby scribbling drawing output"due to low Watt power supply(less than 10W) SO give 5V 2Amp power supply - your cnc need (@least 10W power input) ,if not this will correct try with 12V, 1Amp power supply but this will heat up your DVD step-motors and 3 ICs of L293D so use fan to heat loss in 12v power supply. IF STILL SCRIBBLING DO CHANGES GIVEN BELLOW these changes should be done in Arduino CODES you upload to your CNC (02) StepMilimeterMax - for each 1cm of your maximum length or width of drawing area this value should be multiplied by 25, my cnc drawing area is 5cm X 5cm square shaped area, so my StepMilimeterMax is 5cm x25 =125 (every one who made CNC with normal DVD step-motors has nearly 5cm x 5cm area,so StepMilimeterMax =125) if StepMilimeterMax is 125 output is BIG pictures and letters WITH OVER FLOWING EDGES FROM 5cmx5cm (03) these factors given bellow should be in given values for 5cmx5cm drawing area (a) Line buffer -should be 512 ( if >512 effect is #) (b) XSetSpeed & YSetSpeed -should be 200 (if >200 effect is #) (c) Char Buffer -should be 64 (if >64 effect is #) #- unusual Hum and vibration from your DVD step-motors. (04) Line Delay - should be 50 if this is 0 - left half of your picture/text write on whole 5cm x5cm area and right half is over write on same 5cm x 5cm area if this is 50 - no OVER LAPPING (05) pen servo Delay- should be 100 if >100 - at the point of same text or picture section write by your CNC more than once, second and next writings are not write on first writing so this make "BLUR EFFECT" CORRECT YOUR ARDUINO CODES ACCORDING TO ERROR TYPE GIVEN ABOVE AND GET SUCCEEDED AND WRITE YOUR COMMENTS!
There is a chapter about the working principle of quadrature encoders: homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-encoder-disc_en.htm As well as how to get them from old printers: homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm A video/chapter in my series about "Physical Computing" about how to interface with an Arduino/Raspberry will follow...
Exactly what I needed. Thank you very much. One little thing, can you help the layman figure out how the Control Board of Canon PIXMA IP1000 QM2-1764 (QK1-1005-02) can be used to drive the motors, wiithout any external motor driver?
Oh no! I just took apart the linear drives of the printers that I had laying around, thinking this would be too hard to do. But now I see it's actually really easy!! I wanted to build a pen plotter with the old printer parts.. Now I'll have to salvage more printers haha :D So you use the 'Double H Bridge L298N' to drive the linear motors?
Unfortunately, heaps of cheap, not long lasting printers are sold day by day, so there is no lack of supplies from old printers... Yes, the L298N boards are a cheap way to drive printer motors.
Would be nice if people would go to my pages (as I am telling in each of my videos) before posing a question that is answered there: homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
Awesome video, you are very good at explaining complex topics. Do you have any instructional material on combining say a printer with a scanner to use for laser cutting or as a base for a router?
Lasers are dangerous tools, thus nothing for people asking how to build laser cutters ;-) This printer is part of a series of CNC machines I am creating for this year's HackadayPrize: hackaday.io/project/10299-self-replicating-cnc-for-194-or-more-countries The goal is to build a CNC machine using low tech materials. Stay tuned to see what machines the future development will bring to live....
Regarding the 8:22 part - this is awesome and simple, but I don't understand how it works. The wire is sticking from hole in reservoir full of paint? How the ink doesn't leak from the hole? What is the actual printing action? At first I thought like the wire sticks out of the reservoir and retracts back, bringing drop of into on the paper, but it doesn't seem to work this way. I looked at the pictures on your blog, those are big and detailed, but I can't say I understood it any better.
The viscosity of the color is pasty so that is doesn't leak. It's house paint (don't know the exact term, it's "Fassadenfarbe" in German). In rest position, the tip of the wire is flushing with the bottom of the ground plate. When the relay gets energized, the wire is moving down, touching the paper and so trensferring the ink. It's not shooting drops like an inkjet.
Oh I see, thanks. I have some other questions, if you don't mind ;-) Looking at the picture here www.homofaciens.de/bilder/technik/cnc_v3_1_009_1920x1080.jpg The plastic parts inside the reservoir (visible at bottom left picture) are just to keep position of the needle wire? The needle, slightly sticking out of the reservoir at upper right picture is at rest position? By the way, great channel with a lot of ideas, I subscribed.
Yes, the plastic part inside the reservoir keeps the needle in place. No, that's not the rest position (it's flushing with the bottom of the plate). I wanted to make the tip of the needle visible on the photo, thus I used a piece of cardboard at the relay to fix it in that position.
Hi Mr Norbert , Using the same mechanism (printer). Can you replace the dc motor and replace it with a Stepper motor? I want to change DC motor to Stepper Motor. Thank you very much. Best Regards. Necmettin.
Very interesting video, how did you get the wiring of the linear optical sensor for the printer scavenged part ? I got a 6-pin sensor unfortunately i cannot solder cables to the pins because they put anti-soldering compound on the board, I now have the choice between trying to use the 12-pins ribbon cables or unsolder the component, what do you recommend? Would I be able to use a bought optical sensor and how would I choose one for this linear strip ? Thanks in advance for all these questions and keep up the great content.
I would try to grind the anti soldering compund from the pins. My second choice would be to use the ribbon cable. While trying to unsolder one of those sensors I destroyed the device. If a bought sensor works with the stripe and what type to use? You must try out to find the answer. Since you won't get the specifications of the sensor stripe, it's gambling...
Hello I just wanted to know how to replace the DC motor to a stepper motor in a printhead assembly without removing the belt, how would one proceed ? Thanks in advance
I like this so much ! Is the print head a DIY project or hs it been scavaged from a (very) old printer ? I would like to do something similar for latte printing !
As told in the video, the print head is made of a relay. I am currently trying to improve the design for another printer project: th-cam.com/video/DBI1H7KUqE0/w-d-xo.html
@@HomoFaciens thank you for your answer. I finally got more information on your web site linked into the decription. I was wondering how was the ink dropping from the "needle". I understand that there is no "needle" but rather a simple pin on which the liquid is dropping by capilarity ? And this pin touches the paper to print ? right ? I saw also your second attempt with the genuine printhead. But I do believe that it only works with real ink and no other liquid like milk or coffee ? I would like to do something like this : th-cam.com/video/Wxup2o0w1kU/w-d-xo.html just for fun of course ! regards JP
The needle (piece of copper wire) of this relay printhead touches the paper. So it won't be suitable for your coffee prints. I am working on a print head that ejects ink drops - stay tuned!
5:54 Combining ideas, could an IR sensor be used with a encoder made if various IR filter films? Similar to the resistor array, each position would have a measurable opacity to IR light. This should in theory create identifiable voltage values from the detector. What do you think?
The problem is, that you don't get a clean transition from one opacity to another as you get with the resistors (infinite or fixed resistance). You need two IR sensors as demonstrated in my video about rotary encoders: th-cam.com/video/XIUrnR8bLAI/w-d-xo.html
HomoFaciens Thanks. I was assuming that there would a thin metal frame to support the filters as a disk, the frame itself might provide some transition. Of course, if it could be easily done by simply adding another sensor then that seems like the most pragmatic solution. Thanks again.
Hi! How I can use linear encoder with Arduino? I have linear encoder from HP Printer (Looks same than you).. I've tried power optical encoder but led doesn't light..
I made a video about reusing sensors from old printers: th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=a55EwMSIy2w and there is more about those sensors on my pages: homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm
I'm asking a lot of questions here but how would one proceed to replace the DC motor with a stepper one without dismantling the belt ? I cannot seem to keep the plastic gear but remove the spindle out of it without moving the belt :/
I want to make cnc machine I have two same linear drives with big dc motor but I cant find code for controling two motors for same axis.I want to use linear endoder of corse so two incoders for one axis. Can you help ?
My CNC v2.0 and 2.1 use two motors for the X axis: homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v2_en.htm but you can't expect to use this code without modifications for your machine. If you build your own hardware you must learn how to write the code for it. It's very unlikely to find it all written for you in the www ;-)
I will do my own code sometime but for now I will try using mach3 cause I want to get it working and then I will start to write code and stuff to use arduino. It takes a lot of time to do it propertly,I have to figure out how to get it to gradualy slow down before stop and have to do a lot of experiments with it. It is a lot easyer to do it with steppers cause I coud just buy drivers from ebay cheaply get code from someone else change few numbers and done. But I coudnt find software for dc motors so I will do my own that will be the best way to learn along the way. I didnt use your code beacouse I want it ti take gcode. But I will give it a try in future once I build another smaller one for fun. I am looking forward to see your future project that you are planing for 2017.
ok i have a question er, rather a few of them. I have an old large format plotter, the motors are rotary encoded DC motors, the various sensors are linear encoders. The original computer was old, 1993, didnt have the patience to try to get it to interface with my iMac. So i got an arduino. I know that the motors will require H Bridges, but can it effectively run 2 motors, and 3 linear encoders to use as a plotter again? the pen holder is a relay engaged device with a small encoder on one end. Can the arduino do all of this?
How many motors an Arduino can control depends on how many pulses per second are coming in and so on your hardware setup (motor speed, pulses per revolution). I recommend using an Arduino having at least 4 hardware interrupts to get the maximum reading speed. The UNO only has two of them.
This page lists the numbers of hardware interrupts the Arduinos have built in: www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/external-interrupts/attachinterrupt/ As said before, if they are fast enough depends on your plotter hardware. You must try to find that out...
Can I make a question? How did you made the "list of commands" for the arduino to produce your channel logo? I've builted a similar printer with a ball pen to write, and write not so baldly with GRBL code. But I'm not able to transform any image to G-code. Do you guys have any suggestions? HomoFaciens Help please!
It's a small programm I have written especially for this machine that transforms 24bit Bitmaps into the commands. It's available on my project page: www.homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en_navion.htm
I've seen it and I've been able to "read" the foundamental philosophy of your code... Yeah it's a printer! It swaps all the page in lines and adds dots whre needed, CORRECT! that's how it's meant to be. But in my application Maybe I need some kind of commercial software. A didn't know any simple one. For example I know that chinese lasere cutter uses some kindo of "corel Draw" CNC software. But that's all I know about them... Anyway, GREAT JOB!!! REALLY REALLY EDUCATIONAL! It could be absolutely useful in the future! Your "open servo + oprical encoder" is a very powerful combination! I'm amazed!
It's more a demonstration of linear drives than a real printer. Using two identical motors for X and Y axis would make things more easy. I still have creating a printer from scratch on my list of things to be done, but currently this project is not on top...
@@HomoFaciens Even being a demonstration, it is such amazing. I'm doing similar device, but for another purpose, a x Axis mechanism for syring Control. BTW nice device. :) Thanks to reply me :)
Could you please have a look at my pages as I told you in the video? homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm But keep in mind that is was written quick & dirty only for this video.
@@HomoFaciens Sir I also had a printer and disassembled it and just because of your explanation I can employ its parts in my project, I am very grateful to you that you made this video, it's a 💎
I don't support closed source Spyware. Install Linux on your Computer to make my machine work (maybe as dualboot besides your OS). I am using Ubuntu 16.04LTS and you can get it for free on www.ubuntu.com Don't forget to make a backup of your data before installing Linux.
Hi nice video, Is possible in other video that you explain how program and send commands to arduino for make images similar to example of the video, I see in your website the files for make the encoders and the sketch but many of this using terminal commands and don´t understand how to using for controlling the motors with encoders, thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Sir, I totally replicated the circuit and the code for the sake of proof of concept and get it working, but whenever I send any command the cartridge does not stop it just goes to the extreme right or extreme left! Please help, Thank you!
Do you get correct voltages on the outputs of the sensors? Do you use the original sensor strip or sensor disc from the printer? Selfmade sensor strips will eventually not work. Have a look at the theory behind those sensors: homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm
Thanks for exploring unusual ways to use things, it gives inspiration to engineers, makers and hackers !
Be inspired!
Simply amazing, reminds me of my first printer. I had a C64 printing graphics to a 9 pin dot matrix printer. It literally took an hour to print out a turtle graphic 9x10" on a single sheet of paper in low resolution. I thought back then that instead of using the God aweful slow serial bus on the Commodore 64 that they could have interfaced a printer thought the User's interface, being its an 8 bit bus. Curious to me why that bus was ignored by developers.
You make great videos that are very instructive. Thanks!
I'd be interested in learning about the mechanical build components. The way you use bearings, the reason for the nuts around the bearings, the play of the threaded rod (it visibily fluctuates around its axis).
...I'll keep than in mind.
I learn something new in every video you upload:D
...that's why I create videos. Mission accomplished!
HomoFaciens thank you
We need more peoaple like you , make 10 min video and learn something. And you explain every part of the machine , thanks.
Best Channel Ever. I love this guy he has taught me so much.
Thank you.
you're totally amazing, each of your works are incredibly innovative and very creative. Every work of yours I learn new things! I love your work! Keep it up!
i just wanted to say thank you for putting time and effort i really do enjoy your videos
You show great ideas in your videos! These ideas came to me and of course to many others, but I lack knowledge to bring them to life.
And the only obstacle on the way of opensource 2d paper printer\plotter is the lack of cheap and open printing head with good parameters.
Yes, some more types of easy to handle and broadly available print heads would be nice.
How do you think, this project will make it to success? reprap.org/wiki/Scratchbuilt_Piezo_Printhead
reprap.org/wiki/Reprappable-inkjet
forums.reprap.org/read.php?153,52959
TheKitMurkit
I tried piezo speakers as inkjets, but without success...
Thanks for the links - maybe I will try again.
One of the best channels on TH-cam if you ask me!
Awesome work!
Thanks and tell it to your friends!
Thanks so much for teaching this stuff. Mechathronic is a very interesating thing to study!! I Always wanted to build my own cnc, i even scrap some steppers from copy machines, but i didn't found a realiable way to build linear guides.
Having a cloes look at my linear drives is on of the next things to be done - stay tuned!
Seems like Arnold Schwarzenegger has a new career.
Man, I had shitty day, sick, and your comment made me laugh like an idiot - THANK YOU!
Great practical presentation. Thanks a lot.
it is very interesting to see your videos and the way you use scrap material that usually got thrown away in this society. great videos :-). Friendly greetings, Jörgen
Very good ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
This is a dream! You should perfect it using opensource and old patents
All my projects are Open Source and I don't care about patents. To me, IP doesn't exist...
thanks for the video and for the dedication
soy de Argentina me gustaria un video en español ya que mi ingles no es tan bueno...
I congratulate you !!!
really like your videos ☺ (especially the CNC ones). funny thing about this one is that, with this paint delivering method, you basically created the prototype of an automated tattooing machine 😉.
...must find a way to wrap it around an arm to start tattooing 😉.
A really good and clear video, I like.
This is cool on many levels
Amazing + ingenious work, it's appreciated greatly. Thank you!
Man, that is fun video. I love the fact that you caption all videos. :)
Thank you for your instructive, useful and amazing videos!
Excellent contraptions!
Excellent Demo!!
Best Channel Ever!!!!!!!!!!!!
You re genius. Greetings from México
Awesome video as always Thank You so much! I always learn something with every video.
Very educational, a video worth watching.
This may not be the best printer I've ever seen, but I'm pretty sure it's the first robotic tattoo gun I've seen!
Yet another outstanding video! Thank you!
Line strip in printer is used for speed control. I always thought that is used for position but when I disconnect sensor carriage start to move very fast. I try to measure frequency on drum line strip and it was 20khz.
When removing the sensor stripe, no position pulses are received, thus the microcontroller assumes the motor doesn't move, which is why it raises power to maximum and that's why the carriage starts moving with full speed.
for people who are getting scribbling like drawings from DVD step-motor CNC plotter machine, i give you correct and proven changes for proper out put, try it and get corrected!
(01) most people with "baby scribbling drawing output"due to low Watt power supply(less than 10W)
SO give 5V 2Amp power supply - your cnc need (@least 10W power input) ,if not this will correct try with 12V, 1Amp power supply but this will heat up your DVD step-motors and 3 ICs of L293D so use fan to heat loss in 12v power supply.
IF STILL SCRIBBLING DO CHANGES GIVEN BELLOW
these changes should be done in Arduino CODES you upload to your CNC
(02) StepMilimeterMax - for each 1cm of your maximum length or width of drawing area this value should be multiplied by 25,
my cnc drawing area is 5cm X 5cm square shaped area, so my StepMilimeterMax is 5cm x25 =125 (every one who made CNC with normal DVD step-motors has nearly 5cm x 5cm area,so StepMilimeterMax =125)
if StepMilimeterMax is 125 output is BIG pictures and letters WITH OVER FLOWING EDGES FROM 5cmx5cm
(03) these factors given bellow should be in given values for 5cmx5cm drawing area
(a) Line buffer -should be 512 ( if >512 effect is #)
(b) XSetSpeed & YSetSpeed -should be 200 (if >200 effect is #)
(c) Char Buffer -should be 64 (if >64 effect is #)
#- unusual Hum and vibration from your DVD step-motors.
(04) Line Delay - should be 50
if this is 0 - left half of your picture/text write on whole 5cm x5cm area and right half is over write on same 5cm x 5cm area
if this is 50 - no OVER LAPPING
(05) pen servo Delay- should be 100
if >100 - at the point of same text or picture section write by your CNC more than once, second and next writings are not write on first writing so this make "BLUR EFFECT"
CORRECT YOUR ARDUINO CODES ACCORDING TO ERROR TYPE GIVEN ABOVE AND GET SUCCEEDED AND WRITE YOUR COMMENTS!
you build the coolest stuff :D
That was very informative. Thank you for this video. I can see it took a great deal of work.
Excellent Video. Please provide more info on how you interfaced printer sensors (IR) with the MCU.
There is a chapter about the working principle of quadrature encoders:
homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-encoder-disc_en.htm
As well as how to get them from old printers:
homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm
A video/chapter in my series about "Physical Computing" about how to interface with an Arduino/Raspberry will follow...
Exactly what I needed. Thank you very much. One little thing, can you help the layman figure out how the Control Board of Canon PIXMA IP1000 QM2-1764 (QK1-1005-02) can be used to drive the motors, wiithout any external motor driver?
Sorry, I have no such printer nor enough time to do the work for your project.
Thanks mate. You've given enough. Appreciate it!
Excellent work, presentation
Excellent as usual!
Like saya sangat suka mudah di mengerti walau saya tidak bisa bahasa Inggris tapi sangat mengerti videonya like like like hebat
Oh no! I just took apart the linear drives of the printers that I had laying around, thinking this would be too hard to do. But now I see it's actually really easy!! I wanted to build a pen plotter with the old printer parts.. Now I'll have to salvage more printers haha :D So you use the 'Double H Bridge L298N' to drive the linear motors?
Unfortunately, heaps of cheap, not long lasting printers are sold day by day, so there is no lack of supplies from old printers...
Yes, the L298N boards are a cheap way to drive printer motors.
Excellet, thank you very much for this video!
you are a genius, love your stuff, thank-you
I feel like Arnold Schwarzenegger is teaching me electronics
Cyborgs need a deep understanding of electronics, baby!
Hi, nice post.
I would like to know what make and model the printer you got the cart from had.
Would be nice if people would go to my pages (as I am telling in each of my videos) before posing a question that is answered there:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
Amazing, in so many ways!
Awesome video, you are very good at explaining complex topics. Do you have any instructional material on combining say a printer with a scanner to use for laser cutting or as a base for a router?
Lasers are dangerous tools, thus nothing for people asking how to build laser cutters ;-)
This printer is part of a series of CNC machines I am creating for this year's HackadayPrize:
hackaday.io/project/10299-self-replicating-cnc-for-194-or-more-countries
The goal is to build a CNC machine using low tech materials. Stay tuned to see what machines the future development will bring to live....
glas to see smb is wasting even more time with printers than i do
Another great video!
Regarding the 8:22 part - this is awesome and simple, but I don't understand how it works. The wire is sticking from hole in reservoir full of paint? How the ink doesn't leak from the hole? What is the actual printing action?
At first I thought like the wire sticks out of the reservoir and retracts back, bringing drop of into on the paper, but it doesn't seem to work this way. I looked at the pictures on your blog, those are big and detailed, but I can't say I understood it any better.
The viscosity of the color is pasty so that is doesn't leak. It's house paint (don't know the exact term, it's "Fassadenfarbe" in German). In rest position, the tip of the wire is flushing with the bottom of the ground plate. When the relay gets energized, the wire is moving down, touching the paper and so trensferring the ink. It's not shooting drops like an inkjet.
Oh I see, thanks. I have some other questions, if you don't mind ;-) Looking at the picture here www.homofaciens.de/bilder/technik/cnc_v3_1_009_1920x1080.jpg
The plastic parts inside the reservoir (visible at bottom left picture) are just to keep position of the needle wire? The needle, slightly sticking out of the reservoir at upper right picture is at rest position?
By the way, great channel with a lot of ideas, I subscribed.
Yes, the plastic part inside the reservoir keeps the needle in place. No, that's not the rest position (it's flushing with the bottom of the plate). I wanted to make the tip of the needle visible on the photo, thus I used a piece of cardboard at the relay to fix it in that position.
Thank you much for your explanation, now it's clear to me.
The principle is very simple, but apparently effective. Thumbs up for the idea.
Wow; That is pretty awesome. Thank you.
VERY GOOD YOUR WORK FRIEND HOW I GET THIS PROJECT FROM THIS PROTTER
What about following the link to my project page, that is in the video description box?
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
@@HomoFaciens OK OBRIGADO
How hard would it be to optimize the printing software, so the carriage doesn't have to move all the way to each side, every time?
Not too hard (if you can do coding).
Great Job.
Hi; I'm interested in how you arranged the ink reservoir; could you explain it, please? I cannot find any info regarding it on the project page...
It is a piece of a square tube with a bottom plate made from acrylic plastic. Nothing magic.
Hi Mr Norbert ,
Using the same mechanism (printer). Can you replace the dc motor and replace it with a Stepper motor?
I want to change DC motor to Stepper Motor.
Thank you very much.
Best Regards.
Necmettin.
If you rewrite the software (which is very experimental, but open source) you can also use two stepper motors.
You never stop surprising :D
Very interesting video, how did you get the wiring of the linear optical sensor for the printer scavenged part ? I got a 6-pin sensor unfortunately i cannot solder cables to the pins because they put anti-soldering compound on the board, I now have the choice between trying to use the 12-pins ribbon cables or unsolder the component, what do you recommend? Would I be able to use a bought optical sensor and how would I choose one for this linear strip ? Thanks in advance for all these questions and keep up the great content.
I would try to grind the anti soldering compund from the pins. My second choice would be to use the ribbon cable. While trying to unsolder one of those sensors I destroyed the device. If a bought sensor works with the stripe and what type to use? You must try out to find the answer. Since you won't get the specifications of the sensor stripe, it's gambling...
Hello I just wanted to know how to replace the DC motor to a stepper motor in a printhead assembly without removing the belt, how would one proceed ? Thanks in advance
simply great. thanks.
Great video, thank you!
I like this so much !
Is the print head a DIY project or hs it been scavaged from a (very) old printer ?
I would like to do something similar for latte printing !
As told in the video, the print head is made of a relay. I am currently trying to improve the design for another printer project: th-cam.com/video/DBI1H7KUqE0/w-d-xo.html
@@HomoFaciens thank you for your answer. I finally got more information on your web site linked into the decription.
I was wondering how was the ink dropping from the "needle". I understand that there is no "needle" but rather a simple pin on which the liquid is dropping by capilarity ? And this pin touches the paper to print ? right ?
I saw also your second attempt with the genuine printhead. But I do believe that it only works with real ink and no other liquid like milk or coffee ?
I would like to do something like this : th-cam.com/video/Wxup2o0w1kU/w-d-xo.html
just for fun of course !
regards
JP
The needle (piece of copper wire) of this relay printhead touches the paper. So it won't be suitable for your coffee prints. I am working on a print head that ejects ink drops - stay tuned!
@@HomoFaciens thnaks !
I'll stay tuned, I will follow you .
Nice one,
I also make one cnc plotter with a stepper motor bt it has no feed back loop, how can i add that,can you help me
I have made a simple plotter from two old optical drives, maybe that gives you the right ideas:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-plotter-cdrom_en.htm
Wow, I guess you could even make a cnc using only ice cream sticks :)
At least it would be worth trying it - Lets start with ordering lots of ice cream ;-)
Very good amazing video!!
What about inertia? Would it make sense to slow down as the set point is reached?
There is a proportional control loop implemented in the Arduino software, but I did (almost) no optimization. It was a quick build.
Really cool video. Thanks. I must have a go with something... just have to walk the streets looking for old printers now!
Excellent!
Nice one man, keep it up !
can you share the design? how do you control the printhead?
As told in the video and written in the description box, have a look at my pages:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
@@HomoFaciens thanks... I noticed that...
Bravo!
5:54 Combining ideas, could an IR sensor be used with a encoder made if various IR filter films? Similar to the resistor array, each position would have a measurable opacity to IR light. This should in theory create identifiable voltage values from the detector. What do you think?
The problem is, that you don't get a clean transition from one opacity to another as you get with the resistors (infinite or fixed resistance). You need two IR sensors as demonstrated in my video about rotary encoders:
th-cam.com/video/XIUrnR8bLAI/w-d-xo.html
HomoFaciens Thanks. I was assuming that there would a thin metal frame to support the filters as a disk, the frame itself might provide some transition. Of course, if it could be easily done by simply adding another sensor then that seems like the most pragmatic solution. Thanks again.
Genius!
Hi! How I can use linear encoder with Arduino? I have linear encoder from HP Printer (Looks same than you).. I've tried power optical encoder but led doesn't light..
I made a video about reusing sensors from old printers:
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=a55EwMSIy2w
and there is more about those sensors on my pages:
homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm
How to make step by step....please the make diy head..fantastic!!
Have a look at my pages for more details:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
A new "matrix printer" is under construction - stay tuned!
Thanks for watching and...
I'LL BE BACK
what is the name of the softwear you used with arduino to draw the picture ?!
It's a program I wrote especially for that printer:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
please do a tutorial on a cnc plotter with two linear encoder drives which uses g code and processing ide to print
As I told you, I will continue working on the software of my CNC machines to add G-code funtionality.
okay thank you.
I'm asking a lot of questions here but how would one proceed to replace the DC motor with a stepper one without dismantling the belt ? I cannot seem to keep the plastic gear but remove the spindle out of it without moving the belt :/
I'm talking about the printhead asesmbly btw
I want to make cnc machine I have two same linear drives with big dc motor but I cant find code for controling two motors for same axis.I want to use linear endoder of corse so two incoders for one axis. Can you help ?
The x axis to be corect.
My CNC v2.0 and 2.1 use two motors for the X axis:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v2_en.htm
but you can't expect to use this code without modifications for your machine. If you build your own hardware you must learn how to write the code for it. It's very unlikely to find it all written for you in the www ;-)
I will do my own code sometime but for now I will try using mach3 cause I want to get it working and then I will start to write code and stuff to use arduino. It takes a lot of time to do it propertly,I have to figure out how to get it to gradualy slow down before stop and have to do a lot of experiments with it. It is a lot easyer to do it with steppers cause I coud just buy drivers from ebay cheaply get code from someone else change few numbers and done. But I coudnt find software for dc motors so I will do my own that will be the best way to learn along the way. I didnt use your code beacouse I want it ti take gcode. But I will give it a try in future once I build another smaller one for fun. I am looking forward to see your future project that you are planing for 2017.
great video as ever . love the mouse idea. the printer makes me think of a automated tattoo printer .LOL
that would hurt a lot
ok i have a question er, rather a few of them. I have an old large format plotter, the motors are rotary encoded DC motors, the various sensors are linear encoders. The original computer was old, 1993, didnt have the patience to try to get it to interface with my iMac. So i got an arduino. I know that the motors will require H Bridges, but can it effectively run 2 motors, and 3 linear encoders to use as a plotter again? the pen holder is a relay engaged device with a small encoder on one end. Can the arduino do all of this?
How many motors an Arduino can control depends on how many pulses per second are coming in and so on your hardware setup (motor speed, pulses per revolution). I recommend using an Arduino having at least 4 hardware interrupts to get the maximum reading speed. The UNO only has two of them.
HomoFaciens will a Due work?
This page lists the numbers of hardware interrupts the Arduinos have built in:
www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/external-interrupts/attachinterrupt/
As said before, if they are fast enough depends on your plotter hardware. You must try to find that out...
Can I make a question?
How did you made the "list of commands" for the arduino to produce your channel logo?
I've builted a similar printer with a ball pen to write, and write not so baldly with GRBL code.
But I'm not able to transform any image to G-code.
Do you guys have any suggestions? HomoFaciens Help please!
It's a small programm I have written especially for this machine that transforms 24bit Bitmaps into the commands. It's available on my project page:
www.homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en_navion.htm
I've seen it and I've been able to "read" the foundamental philosophy of your code... Yeah it's a printer!
It swaps all the page in lines and adds dots whre needed, CORRECT! that's how it's meant to be.
But in my application Maybe I need some kind of commercial software. A didn't know any simple one.
For example I know that chinese lasere cutter uses some kindo of "corel Draw" CNC software. But that's all I know about them... Anyway, GREAT JOB!!! REALLY REALLY EDUCATIONAL! It could be absolutely useful in the future! Your "open servo + oprical encoder" is a very powerful combination! I'm amazed!
I read below that the printer resolution is 1 mm. Is there a way to improve this resolution by rewriting the code? maybe using interpolation
Yes, with some software optimization, you could get better results, but why? It's just a demonstration of how things work.
I'm trying to make a 3D printer with inkjet printer parts so I would like better resolution
Hey arnold, you are building a smart terminator, dontcha?
...don't kid the grandfather of terminating machines ;-)
I love it
Wonderful!!!!!!
good courses
Wow! I learned a lot... In teery!!
thank's for your videos now i'm thinking to Maje an THC for plasma and an AC motor positioning system with an inverter to move
...no simple project.
The best!
How i found the part and all Sarkis
Details on my pages:
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
this would be interesting as a DTG Printer (soloution Printer for UV cureable ink)
Adamsın reis
Could U make one with a display?
Why should I? It works fine for me without.
@@HomoFaciens I said that because I have an interest to build it, so I was wondering this marvelous device with a display :)
It's more a demonstration of linear drives than a real printer. Using two identical motors for X and Y axis would make things more easy. I still have creating a printer from scratch on my list of things to be done, but currently this project is not on top...
@@HomoFaciens Even being a demonstration, it is such amazing. I'm doing similar device, but for another purpose, a x Axis mechanism for syring Control.
BTW nice device. :)
Thanks to reply me :)
For syringe control an LCD would be nice to see how many ml exit the "pump". Should not be too hard to hook up an LCD to an Arduino?
Could you please provide the code for print head control with arduino??
Could you please have a look at my pages as I told you in the video?
homofaciens.de/technics-machines-cnc-v3-1_en.htm
But keep in mind that is was written quick & dirty only for this video.
@@HomoFaciens Sir I also had a printer and disassembled it and just because of your explanation I can employ its parts in my project, I am very grateful to you that you made this video, it's a 💎
sir how to use that software in windows computer
I don't support closed source Spyware. Install Linux on your Computer to make my machine work (maybe as dualboot besides your OS). I am using Ubuntu 16.04LTS and you can get it for free on
www.ubuntu.com
Don't forget to make a backup of your data before installing Linux.
Compliments !!!
Hi nice video, Is possible in other video that you explain how program and send commands to arduino for make images similar to example of the video, I see in your website the files for make the encoders and the sketch but many of this using terminal commands and don´t understand how to using for controlling the motors with encoders, thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Sometime I will create a series of chapters showing how to do "physical computing", but I can't say when.
Ok thanks for your reply and I hope can see and learn more about of robotics with your videos.
You sound just like Arnold Schwarzenegger.
No! Arnold sounds like me.
thanks you
Sir, I totally replicated the circuit and the code for the sake of proof of concept and get it working, but whenever I send any command the cartridge does not stop it just goes to the extreme right or extreme left! Please help, Thank you!
Did you swap the polarity of the motor wires?
@@HomoFaciens I tried that too
Do you get correct voltages on the outputs of the sensors?
Do you use the original sensor strip or sensor disc from the printer? Selfmade sensor strips will eventually not work.
Have a look at the theory behind those sensors:
homofaciens.de/technics-base-circuits-transmissive-optical-sensors_en.htm
Really need help in creating a revolutionary product. Please tell me where to contact
Well. if you can't find my contact data on my pages (I refer to in all of my videos), it will be hard to start a technological revolution ;-)
Oops! Thats why i need the help :P