Will sat in our base camp in 2022 when we were attempting Nuptse. He provided some enjoyable insights into the history of commercial climbing on Everest. A really decent guy and an excellent listener.
I really enjoy listening to the history of Everest and everything that goes along with it. I truly admire climbers and hearing their stories. Thankyou Alan
Excellent interview. Loved it. Will get the book. I love anything about climbing. I'd never do the climbs myself but I enjoy living it through your stories Alan!!❤
Exceptional interview! I never knew that there wasn't much money in it for these company's. At the prices they charge, I figured they were all rolling in the dough. I also thought it was interesting that Western outfits think client safety is the top priority while the Nepalese see their role differently. It reminds me of things I read related to issues in the "1996 Everest disaster, regarding the same issue. Anatoli Boukreev's actions/non-actions/inactions were, of course, a very contentious subject. One source mentioned that traditional Russian guiding was not about treating climbers "as if they were in kindergarden" and being responsible for every move they made. I found that very interesting. Again, great interview. Thanks! .
it surprised me not to hear about the mobs of climbers caught in the long lines. that seems so very dangerous. you did mention that the number of permits sold has dropped, perhaps that will help. great interview, guys!
I just stumbled upon this interesting Outside article. "Climbing’s Little Helper" by Devon O’Neil (Originally Published Mar 14, 2013 Updated Jun 30, 2021)
Bob, it would be naïve to think no drugs are used in mountaineering. In my close to 30 years of active participation in the sport and industry I can honestly say I’ve not seen an organized, promoted or widespread use of any kind of drug. Diamox is commonly used to accelerate acclimatization but that is not a performance enhancing drug per se. Some people have taken the steroid Dexamethasone prophylactically as cited in the article ZZ shared but as shown in the article, it can backfire big time so it’s not commonly used by informed individuals. Bottom line for me is PE drugs in climbing is certainly there but not at the level it once was in competition cycling or baseball for example. My opinion. Thanks.
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Will sat in our base camp in 2022 when we were attempting Nuptse. He provided some enjoyable insights into the history of commercial climbing on Everest. A really decent guy and an excellent listener.
Good to hear. I agree, super guy
I really enjoy listening to the history of Everest and everything that goes along with it. I truly admire climbers and hearing their stories. Thankyou Alan
I think all history buffs will enjoy his book and this podcast. Thanks.
Jon's a hero and a Great American writer in a time when there are few. He is a Legend.
I love the history of Everest. Thank you for the interview. It was very interesting.
Perfect! This is the book for you, then.
This explains why Alpine Ascents is a solid guiding company. I climbed with them on mout Rainier and love it. I would do it again.
Excellent interview. Loved it. Will get the book. I love anything about climbing.
I'd never do the climbs myself but I enjoy living it through your stories Alan!!❤
Very interesting view of Everest and the climbing community.
Glad you enjoyed it. It's a great book.
Exceptional interview! I never knew that there wasn't much money in it for these company's. At the prices they charge, I figured they were all rolling in the dough. I also thought it was interesting that Western outfits think client safety is the top priority while the Nepalese see their role differently. It reminds me of things I read related to issues in the "1996 Everest disaster, regarding the same issue. Anatoli Boukreev's actions/non-actions/inactions were, of course, a very contentious subject. One source mentioned that traditional Russian guiding was not about treating climbers "as if they were in kindergarden" and being responsible for every move they made. I found that very interesting. Again, great interview. Thanks!
.
Appreciate your comment ZZ
Really interesting interview.
Glad you enjoyed it. Will is a great guy and it's a great book.
it surprised me not to hear about the mobs of climbers
caught in the long lines. that
seems so very dangerous. you
did mention that the number
of permits sold has dropped,
perhaps that will help. great
interview, guys!
Yes, it does look like a very different year is developing than it has been in the past 10 or so.
Very interesting. I'm not sure if or when I'll be able to get my hands on the book here in Brazil but I'll try!
I know Erik Weihenmayer, the first blind man to climb Everest about 20 years ago.
I've met him a few times, super nice!
I think there should be an assessment prior to the climb.
What kind? Physical, mental, emotional, experience? And by whom? And what are the criteria?
How long has EPO, HGH and testosterone been used in the mountaineering industrial complex ?
I've never thought of this. I hope Alan weighs in.
I just stumbled upon this interesting Outside article. "Climbing’s Little Helper" by Devon O’Neil (Originally Published Mar 14, 2013 Updated Jun 30, 2021)
Bob, it would be naïve to think no drugs are used in mountaineering. In my close to 30 years of active participation in the sport and industry I can honestly say I’ve not seen an organized, promoted or widespread use of any kind of drug. Diamox is commonly used to accelerate acclimatization but that is not a performance enhancing drug per se. Some people have taken the steroid Dexamethasone prophylactically as cited in the article ZZ shared but as shown in the article, it can backfire big time so it’s not commonly used by informed individuals. Bottom line for me is PE drugs in climbing is certainly there but not at the level it once was in competition cycling or baseball for example. My opinion. Thanks.