It looks cool with the roof rack & spare tire. It did hurt the performance pretty bad though. The knuckles did help. Might try brass diff covers which will give you a little more low weight. I’d say steel bead lock wheels but I think the added rotational weight along with the total weight will make the battery short lived. The 1st thing I o to mine is swap out the servo with an Emax.
I’m a bit late to the game here, but here’s where I would start from where the video left off. 1. Relocate the accessories, ditch the spare and gas cans, move the recovery boards to the front of the rack and crossways too, move the hi-lift to the hood hinges, which will protect it and move the weight forward. 2. Pack the front bumper with tungsten putty for a pinewood car, maybe even tuck the bumper as far in as you can too. 3. Servo, steering links, and mount, aluminum or brass mount with the servo of your choice. I have 2 Deadbolts that have the HR Aluminum EMax compatible mounts and links and I’m working on a Microshark conversion that has a Samix brass mount and a 3rd EMax in it and will be getting a 3rd HR link kit (in route RN). 4. Wheels and Tires, aluminum beadlocks and better tires, the 2 Deadbolts are running Yeah Racing beadlocks and RC4wd Patagonia’s and the Microshark has Proline Hyrax and will be getting RC4wd Black Rhino wheels, which are coming with the 3rd HR steering link set. 5. Look at shocks, I have the stock size HR shocks on the Deadbolts and the non-telescoping long travel HR shocks on the Microshark, though I may get sets for the Deadbolts once I can see how they work on the ‘Shark.
@@SimplyMustGo The putty thing is something that I’ve used on the Deadbolts, the Rx box on my SCX10, and in the front bumper of my Tamiya MF-01x Jimny with portals. I even used it in the RPM front bulkhead for my Traxxas Bandit to try and balance out the tail heavy natural of that layout.
Looks cool with additions. Definately swap the servo (e.g. EMAX). Makes a huge difference. Either get a rebuild kit for the shocks or get new shocks you can oil fill.
The installation of the roof rack is about right for a Jeep build. Things don’t line up and screws weren’t long enough. 3-5x attempts later you finally get it on. That is about par for the course.
I removed my brass wheel weights and diff weights and only have aftermarket shocks now. Less bling but with the weights it made it handle so much better that it was boring to drive.
For anyone considering any small 3D printed parts expect to drill and manipulate to get screws to fit, not only when assembling the part itself but also when installing the part. I’ve even had stuff from shapeways that was a pain to assemble. I just got my first 1:24 and pretty much every plastic part I had to drill and use caution when screwing and assembling. Good luck y’all. Matt, thanks for sharing.
@@SimplyMustGo bro if you need any help at all with 1/10 scale feel free to hit me up. I’m a team Driver for GSpeed and Hardcore RC. If you like the 24 you’re going to absolutely LOVE 1:10 scale. There’s endless options and they actually work. And now that you’ve experienced the frustration of a tiny rig the 1:10 will be a breeze.
@@agoodballet haha that’s awesome. Yeah I want to build up an RC Jeep YJ. But I think that’s closer to 1/24 scale. I also really like the Axial 1:10 scale Rubicons.
Cheap 7g sticky lead weights, barrage motor so you can actually crawl(goes nice and slow), new wheels with sticky tires(I like the Baja claws), Emax ES08MA II analog servo and hub extensions 8mm or so. Just the hub extensions alone are one cheap yet big upgrade, so stable on side hills now. Pretty cheap for most of it and what it can do vs stock is pretty amazing. Also removed the front bumper and its mount, should see what it can get over without it.
Honestly you can go nuts with adding weight... I’d just focus on adding tons of weight low in the front, then add brass hex’s or something else minor on the rear. Even if it’s low slung, weight in the rear will make your front wheels lift/make weight you put in the front end less effective 😁
I fitted some scale accessories from CChand on my SCX24 Jeep including roof rack, side ladder, rear spare wheel carrier, side mirrors and inner fenders. It was purely to improve scale realism of the rather basic standard Wrangler body rather than buying a new hard body Bronco. The result is worth it I think. The inner fenders are also good at keeping dirt out of the chassis. The CChand parts, especially the inner fenders with multiple mounting holes, all lined up perfectly so it was a quick and easy install.
Great comparison study ! Best bet on any incline is a lower CG so weight down low . any weight added need be offset by heavier weight closer to the actual footprint .
I'm running brass knuckles, brass extennded wheel hubs, brass differential covers and the Kinetic Double Barrel shock upgrades on mine.... The brass helps a lot BUT I'm gonna have to switch to a stronger servo because of the added weight.
With all the accessories you will have to upgrade the motor to the bigger motor and wheel/tires and shocks will also make a difference cause I decked out my deadbolt and had the issue with rolling over an flipping too
@@SimplyMustGo yeah when I did the wheels and tires I noticed a big difference as well, recently I have added a portal kit to mine and that has made a difference too
That’s a really interesting idea and would be a great experiment, especially over time. Thank you for the idea, I think it would make a fun video to test out. If you have any other cool ideas we could test at the same time, let me know.
Performance is nice, but for me personally the looks are just as important - it's about scale adventures. Also, carrying a heavy rack, plates, spare fuel and a spare wheel would have a detrimental effect on performance on the real thing as well. As for the sagging rear, you can use o-rings or zip-ties to increase the preload on the rear shock and this will partially offset the imbalance. My first SCX24 is in the mail on its way to my house. I got brass wheel inserts and diff covers along with it but I won't install these immediately - first lets see how the stock set-up does compared to my Carisma MSA-1E.
Those are great points and I totally agree. I love they way they look and it’s all about preference. Can’t wait to see your build. Tag me on Instagram when you get it built.
I picked mine up today I've been waiting to find the Chevy C10. Nobody had it in stock not even Amazon or ebay my local hobby store called me today and said they got some in so I booked up there and grab the truck and a few extra batteries now to find a decent charger
Yeah. That’s sort of how I got mine. They were sold out everywhere an happened to go into my local hobby shop at the right time and they had just gotten in 2 and I bought them both.
@@SimplyMustGo I got lucky they knew I was looking for one so they held it for me. I used to spend big bucks with them. I used to run fifth scale gas and kyosho inferno 8th scale buggies
I have the deadbolt, which has been widend,stretched and loaded with almost every mod i could find. My result was a $1000.00 scx24 with a weighing weight of 1.2lbs . Itll climb a wall now. Great video
I have the same jeep, mine is all stock, I only did the brass knuckles after I saw your video, I love the way your jeep looks however, but I felt the extra weight up top was too much!
I never add any 'cosmetic' stuff to my rigs. I strip as much stuff off of them as possible. Including the ridiculous amount of stickers on the Jeep JLU.
Your are so posed to add wheel weight the box teels you on the box here. Pieces Brass Extended 7mm Hex Wheel Hubs 8mm Thick and 2 Pieces Brass Steering Knuckles Compatible with AXIAL SCX24, 6 Pieces in Total
You need to get another set of brass weights for and for the back to to help with side hilling and when it’s going over that part on the original course that you made that’s really high up if the back is way down the tires well touch that obstacle because of the weights and you’ll be able to get over it and it doesn’t have to use front wait to get over it
Put a teaspoon or two of bird shot in each front wheel, the bbs stay to the bottom of the tire when crawling. Make sure its target load lead 12 gage bird shot not hunting steel bbs
@@SimplyMustGo If you want to crawl through water/mud maybe not, but on the other hand, beadlocked tyres with a 'lot' of air trapped inside give your truck bouyancy! LoL
Do you change the speed when testing? I noticed turning the speed down allowed me to side hill climb much easier without tipping vs trying to go slow on high speed.
I got the deadbolt because it was the cheapest by $10 and I hate it so much. Not playing with it- it’s a blast to play with, but the look is awful to me. And I can’t find a body that I love 3rd party. I should have got the blue truck and painted the grill and wheels to delete the chrome.
I hear you! That why I went with the Jeeps, but I’m also working on 3D printing a new body and once I get it finished I’m going to be pretty excited to share it!
@@SimplyMustGo thanks for the share! Kind of obsessed with this little thing right now. I’ve got some brass for the wheels and diff covers on the way. Just trying to figure out what body to get. I… I just really don’t want to paint. 😭
@@SimplyMustGo good bro and if u want more articulation get the long travel shocks. Cuz then all the weight will keep the crawler low but it will articulate awsome.
@@SimplyMustGo the longest travel shocks I've seen are the Kinetic Double Barrel upgrade kit...That's what I'm running, you get twice the travel as the stock shocks.
Unfortunately not. Seems like from the design and how it had to be put together that would have been extremely challenging. It didn’t come with instructions, so i guess you could do it that way if you wanted to try it, but man I would have hated trying to figure it out.
IMHO, the real vehicle with all those extra esthetics would perform the same as yours. I think losing the performance is a plus for scale realism. I’d rather loose rock monster and gain daily driver and weekend trail explorer.
first of all if you care about performance of your small truck, you need swap these pretty weak original motor and servo, I recommend Injora 50t it makes your scx much more powerfull and incredible high torque as well, it stop jerks as crazy when try to get to the ramp! then you need swap original light weight plastic wheels to aluminum rims and more stable tires. Next the time for more stiff and stable to jumps shoks. All these upgrades will make your rig much more powerful and stable for crawling without extra overweighting, loss of performance and extra money spending! 🙈👍🏻
Yep. We actually update the white one with new motor, sterling and all metal components at this point (didn’t do videos on that yet) but it’s a beast now.
I would put on weighted diff covers and get some weighted beadlock wheels from treal. Great build Great video. 👍
Thanks! Yeah. I think those will be my next move for sure.
New tires and wheels are a must for any rig in my opinion
Nah, weighted axles
Emax servo as well
If your not upgrading the shocks, break’em down (the rear one’s) stretch out the springs a bit to increase the load cap and level it out...
Your pretty cool 😎 I liked 👍 your video,that's what I do,but I go for performance, like the looks,but bad for performance.
It looks cool with the roof rack & spare tire. It did hurt the performance pretty bad though. The knuckles did help. Might try brass diff covers which will give you a little more low weight. I’d say steel bead lock wheels but I think the added rotational weight along with the total weight will make the battery short lived. The 1st thing I o to mine is swap out the servo with an Emax.
Yeah. New servos are on my Christmas list!
Seen was kit to lower motor batteryand esc to lower center of gravity
I’m a bit late to the game here, but here’s where I would start from where the video left off.
1. Relocate the accessories, ditch the spare and gas cans, move the recovery boards to the front of the rack and crossways too, move the hi-lift to the hood hinges, which will protect it and move the weight forward.
2. Pack the front bumper with tungsten putty for a pinewood car, maybe even tuck the bumper as far in as you can too.
3. Servo, steering links, and mount, aluminum or brass mount with the servo of your choice. I have 2 Deadbolts that have the HR Aluminum EMax compatible mounts and links and I’m working on a Microshark conversion that has a Samix brass mount and a 3rd EMax in it and will be getting a 3rd HR link kit (in route RN).
4. Wheels and Tires, aluminum beadlocks and better tires, the 2 Deadbolts are running Yeah Racing beadlocks and RC4wd Patagonia’s and the Microshark has Proline Hyrax and will be getting RC4wd Black Rhino wheels, which are coming with the 3rd HR steering link set.
5. Look at shocks, I have the stock size HR shocks on the Deadbolts and the non-telescoping long travel HR shocks on the Microshark, though I may get sets for the Deadbolts once I can see how they work on the ‘Shark.
Good stuff! Some of that I’ve done and some I didn’t / hadn’t thought of! Good ideas!
@@SimplyMustGo The putty thing is something that I’ve used on the Deadbolts, the Rx box on my SCX10, and in the front bumper of my Tamiya MF-01x Jimny with portals. I even used it in the RPM front bulkhead for my Traxxas Bandit to try and balance out the tail heavy natural of that layout.
@@GreenJeep1998 it’s a great idea! Thanks for the info!
@@SimplyMustGo No Problem!
Finally just ordered one of these today. I'm pretty stoked about it!
That’s awesome. Which one did you get? I want the new gladiator one now.
@@SimplyMustGo I went with the white Wrangler. But I feel like it's only the first on, haha, because I already want the new bronco, too 😂
You deserve wayyy more subscribers with this production quality! Well made video :)!
Thank you so much!!!
True
Looks cool with additions. Definately swap the servo (e.g. EMAX). Makes a huge difference. Either get a rebuild kit for the shocks or get new shocks you can oil fill.
Thanks! Yeah I think the steering servo and shocks are in the short list.
The installation of the roof rack is about right for a Jeep build. Things don’t line up and screws weren’t long enough. 3-5x attempts later you finally get it on. That is about par for the course.
Hahah. Isn’t it though!
The body details are really cool!!
Thank you!
Looks awesome. Add more weight. Diff covers. Wheel weights. Should help. But the looks are great!
I removed my brass wheel weights and diff weights and only have aftermarket shocks now. Less bling but with the weights it made it handle so much better that it was boring to drive.
Haha
For anyone considering any small 3D printed parts expect to drill and manipulate to get screws to fit, not only when assembling the part itself but also when installing the part. I’ve even had stuff from shapeways that was a pain to assemble. I just got my first 1:24 and pretty much every plastic part I had to drill and use caution when screwing and assembling. Good luck y’all.
Matt, thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much! I’m hoping to start a custom body for my SCX24 and then move up into a 1/10 scale.
@@SimplyMustGo bro if you need any help at all with 1/10 scale feel free to hit me up. I’m a team Driver for GSpeed and Hardcore RC. If you like the 24 you’re going to absolutely LOVE 1:10 scale. There’s endless options and they actually work. And now that you’ve experienced the frustration of a tiny rig the 1:10 will be a breeze.
@@agoodballet haha that’s awesome. Yeah I want to build up an RC Jeep YJ. But I think that’s closer to 1/24 scale. I also really like the Axial 1:10 scale Rubicons.
Cheap 7g sticky lead weights, barrage motor so you can actually crawl(goes nice and slow), new wheels with sticky tires(I like the Baja claws), Emax ES08MA II analog servo and hub extensions 8mm or so. Just the hub extensions alone are one cheap yet big upgrade, so stable on side hills now. Pretty cheap for most of it and what it can do vs stock is pretty amazing. Also removed the front bumper and its mount, should see what it can get over without it.
Those are great tips and upgrades!
Doesn't stuff hit the servo then?
Honestly you can go nuts with adding weight... I’d just focus on adding tons of weight low in the front, then add brass hex’s or something else minor on the rear. Even if it’s low slung, weight in the rear will make your front wheels lift/make weight you put in the front end less effective 😁
Thanks. That’s good advice.
I fitted some scale accessories from CChand on my SCX24 Jeep including roof rack, side ladder, rear spare wheel carrier, side mirrors and inner fenders. It was purely to improve scale realism of the rather basic standard Wrangler body rather than buying a new hard body Bronco. The result is worth it I think. The inner fenders are also good at keeping dirt out of the chassis. The CChand parts, especially the inner fenders with multiple mounting holes, all lined up perfectly so it was a quick and easy install.
Nice! I haven’t done inner fenders yet!
@@SimplyMustGo I like them because they protect the electronics and stop you seeing right through the chassis and up into the inside of the body.
I went all metal with mine. Metal links, axels, shocks. Metal beadlocks with swampers and wheel weights
How is your motor and steering servo holding up?
Great comparison study ! Best bet on any incline is a lower CG so weight down low . any weight added need be offset by heavier weight closer to the actual footprint .
Awesome thanks! I should have a video coming out soon that has a lot of what you’re talking about. I think you’ll like it.
I bet if you put a brass diff cover in the front you should be doing great!
Thanks. In the time since doing this video I have added them and added a few other goodies. Really made an awesome difference!
I'm running brass knuckles, brass extennded wheel hubs, brass differential covers and the Kinetic Double Barrel shock upgrades on mine....
The brass helps a lot BUT I'm gonna have to switch to a stronger servo because of the added weight.
Yeah I figured at some point I’d have to upgrade the servo if it got heavier.
@@SimplyMustGo yeah I still have the stock servo BUT all the extra weight really kicks it's butt on tight turns
The only thing from times, with scale, sacrifices performance, to have performance, sacrifice scale
With all the accessories you will have to upgrade the motor to the bigger motor and wheel/tires and shocks will also make a difference cause I decked out my deadbolt and had the issue with rolling over an flipping too
Yep! Just recently did a video upgrading the motor and steering servo and wheels and tires. Made a big difference!
@@SimplyMustGo yeah when I did the wheels and tires I noticed a big difference as well, recently I have added a portal kit to mine and that has made a difference too
the ants at 2:22 SUBBED
6:36 tiny screws are tiny LIKED
Hahahaha. Thanks!!!
I've just thought of something. What about building a course out of floral foam? It would develop ruts over time just like real terrain.
That’s a really interesting idea and would be a great experiment, especially over time. Thank you for the idea, I think it would make a fun video to test out. If you have any other cool ideas we could test at the same time, let me know.
Brass wheel weights work very well also.
Performance is nice, but for me personally the looks are just as important - it's about scale adventures. Also, carrying a heavy rack, plates, spare fuel and a spare wheel would have a detrimental effect on performance on the real thing as well.
As for the sagging rear, you can use o-rings or zip-ties to increase the preload on the rear shock and this will partially offset the imbalance.
My first SCX24 is in the mail on its way to my house. I got brass wheel inserts and diff covers along with it but I won't install these immediately - first lets see how the stock set-up does compared to my Carisma MSA-1E.
Those are great points and I totally agree. I love they way they look and it’s all about preference. Can’t wait to see your build. Tag me on Instagram when you get it built.
I picked mine up today I've been waiting to find the Chevy C10. Nobody had it in stock not even Amazon or ebay my local hobby store called me today and said they got some in so I booked up there and grab the truck and a few extra batteries now to find a decent charger
Yeah. That’s sort of how I got mine. They were sold out everywhere an happened to go into my local hobby shop at the right time and they had just gotten in 2 and I bought them both.
@@SimplyMustGo I got lucky they knew I was looking for one so they held it for me. I used to spend big bucks with them. I used to run fifth scale gas and kyosho inferno 8th scale buggies
It does look great I think ! I’m not a big rock crawler but trail guy towards the end of your video so 👍🏼 there
I have the deadbolt, which has been widend,stretched and loaded with almost every mod i could find. My result was a $1000.00 scx24 with a weighing weight of 1.2lbs . Itll climb a wall now. Great video
Wow that’s awesome! I’ve really upgraded the white Jeep to be almost entirely metal. But it still likes to flip. Haha
That ant hill crawl was cool stuff 😁
Thanks!
I got a dual motor scx24 fully modified it's unstoppable great video man.
That sounds awesome! And Thank you for the kind words!
Great work my friend. 👍👍👍
Thank you!!
So what I did with my deadbolt was I put an aluminum axle housing up front and that helped a lot
And Brass knuckles with brass weighted beadlocks from treal
Yeah. Since this video. I’ve added a bunch of brass. Helped a lot, but still room for improvement.
Upgraded 18th scale engine with a stronger Servo and motorcycle wheel weights on the servo will be good
I have the same jeep, mine is all stock, I only did the brass knuckles after I saw your video, I love the way your jeep looks however, but I felt the extra weight up top was too much!
Yeah it’s a balance between looks and function for sure! Thanks so much for commenting. I’m glad to have you here!
" its too top heavy "
*Continues to add weight to the roof*
Got to see how far we can push it right!
I hear you brother!
Put overdrive front gears in it and servo w steering links.
Love the video, very informative..... any way to do a deadbolt video?
I'd love to get a deadbolt, I actually have some ideas for a cool custom build around one.
Awesome video! 👏👍
Thank you!!
Just purchased the white jeep last night
I never add any 'cosmetic' stuff to my rigs. I strip as much stuff off of them as possible. Including the ridiculous amount of stickers on the Jeep JLU.
Maybe all the extra decals on the white one give it the added .1 weight
Hahaha Each sticker adds some horse power too. I practically have a brushless motor now... haha
You definitely do a motor swap!!! That would be so entertaining!!! GOD BLESS
I like the way you think!
@@SimplyMustGo Well thank you my good sirl!!!!
Awesome viceo my rc friend 👍😀
Thank you!!!!
You need front weight! Swap the battery and esc positions and some metal wheels and your golden
Thanks. I’ve added a lot of metal but haven’t swapped the battery and Esc. That’s a good idea
@@SimplyMustGo I noticed a massive improvement with up hill climbs
Any motor and electronics upgrades that are compatible? Any links for upgrades?
I actually just finished filming a video with a new motor and new steering servo. Should be out next week.
Great video this is exactly what I needed!
Thanks!! Glad it helped!
I like the channel you have good editing skills
Thank you!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Your are so posed to add wheel weight the box teels you on the box here. Pieces Brass Extended 7mm Hex Wheel Hubs 8mm Thick and 2 Pieces Brass Steering Knuckles Compatible with AXIAL SCX24, 6 Pieces in Total
Been thinking about grabbing one of these! Great vid, subbed!
Thank you!!
Looks awesome bro
Put the spare tire on the roof rack. Ad more weight on the wheels.
That’s a great idea. I actually have done that but haven’t figured out a good way to mount it so it doesn’t fall off.
You need to get another set of brass weights for and for the back to to help with side hilling and when it’s going over that part on the original course that you made that’s really high up if the back is way down the tires well touch that obstacle because of the weights and you’ll be able to get over it and it doesn’t have to use front wait to get over it
Good idea
Great video Matt. Your work is so much fun to watch! Keep up the great work my bald buddy 🤣
Thank you!!!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 got to do something til my Jeep comes home.
Great Information!!
Thank you!
Heavy brass differential cover on the front
Yeah, I actually did that too off-camera. If you watch closely at the very end you can see them. They helped more for sure.
@@SimplyMustGo I just tagged you in one of post in Instagram
Put a teaspoon or two of bird shot in each front wheel, the bbs stay to the bottom of the tire when crawling. Make sure its target load lead 12 gage bird shot not hunting steel bbs
Genius.
Gauge! Experiment with it. Thanks! 👍
That’s just what I did with my T-Rex for defender it should work with a little car to
When you fit alloy beadlock rims do you drill a hole in the rim and inner sleeve to let the air out/in and the tyre can breath?
I did not. Didn’t think about that. I’m still sort of new to the RC crawling thing. That’s a good question!
@@SimplyMustGo If you want to crawl through water/mud maybe not, but on the other hand, beadlocked tyres with a 'lot' of air trapped inside give your truck bouyancy! LoL
Do you change the speed when testing? I noticed turning the speed down allowed me to side hill climb much easier without tipping vs trying to go slow on high speed.
I did! There were some obstacles I had to switch to medium or even high on to do.
Wait, they weigh different because of battery level? Hahahaha, good one.
Nice vid.
I got the deadbolt because it was the cheapest by $10 and I hate it so much. Not playing with it- it’s a blast to play with, but the look is awful to me. And I can’t find a body that I love 3rd party. I should have got the blue truck and painted the grill and wheels to delete the chrome.
I hear you! That why I went with the Jeeps, but I’m also working on 3D printing a new body and once I get it finished I’m going to be pretty excited to share it!
@@SimplyMustGo thanks for the share! Kind of obsessed with this little thing right now. I’ve got some brass for the wheels and diff covers on the way. Just trying to figure out what body to get. I… I just really don’t want to paint. 😭
The body on my axial keep is all super glue it’s had been cracked by cold and falls so much that the whole interior is just pure super glue
Hahaha. That’s pretty epic. Probably the most durable body ever now!
Put a heavy front bumper they work very well.
That’s actually sometime I got for the white Jeep!
@@SimplyMustGo good bro and if u want more articulation get the long travel shocks. Cuz then all the weight will keep the crawler low but it will articulate awsome.
@@broken4999 do you have ones you recommend?
Also get the aluminum rock sliders they have them on Amazon that will keep center of gravity. Good luck man.👍
@@SimplyMustGo the longest travel shocks I've seen are the Kinetic Double Barrel upgrade kit...That's what I'm running, you get twice the travel as the stock shocks.
There’s different speed settings? You said hi - lo ?
Yes. These had 3 speed settings. Low, medium and high, though I think the newer ones have a different remote that doesn’t have that anymore
Are you going to be getting another FULL SIZE Jeep? I’ll wait for my shout out lol........😎
I’m not saying I’m not.
But you are one of like 5 people that knows the correct answer.
Are you getting an overland trailer?
Would be cool!
Has anybody tried Water or oil filled tyres, competition move maybe, would be heaps of wieght down low
RC4WD beadlock Rims and tires
Yeah I have a set ready for the white Jeep. They should be a good improvement
Surely the roof rack screws on from the underside not through the top
Unfortunately not. Seems like from the design and how it had to be put together that would have been extremely challenging. It didn’t come with instructions, so i guess you could do it that way if you wanted to try it, but man I would have hated trying to figure it out.
Take your wheelbase and make it wider
Yeah. I think that’s on the list of upgrades for sure!
it is the lights
Put the tire om top in the rack
It's fun ,,
Did he say battery charge level affects the weight of the truck? 😆
IMHO, the real vehicle with all those extra esthetics would perform the same as yours.
I think losing the performance is a plus for scale realism.
I’d rather loose rock monster and gain daily driver and weekend trail explorer.
I don't disagree at all! 90% of the time I'm playing with him just outside in the woods, so they perform pretty well like that.
@@SimplyMustGo I think it’s awesome, I didn’t mean to sound snooty in my comment, I’m autistic and overthink overthinking ☺️
@@tomcook5813 You didn't sound snooty at all! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
leave the tyre it looks like it didn't want to roll-over rear over front on declines
Your motor is going to burn up. I know..... so far I have gone through 3 motors, (stock motors).
Which would you recommend switching it to?
Get rid of that jeep body!! Great for looks, not performance!!
Which one performs best?
@@SimplyMustGo any of the older style body's like the c10 or the betty body.
Way to much talking
NO YOU SILLY POO
Battery level affecting weight? FFS, nothing you say will bring you back from that idiocy.
Snorkels look dumb. How many guys are going to install a ladder to put things on the top rack in real life?
Let the people do what they want with their RC.
first of all if you care about performance of your small truck, you need swap these pretty weak original motor and servo, I recommend Injora 50t it makes your scx much more powerfull and incredible high torque as well, it stop jerks as crazy when try to get to the ramp! then you need swap original light weight plastic wheels to aluminum rims and more stable tires. Next the time for more stiff and stable to jumps shoks. All these upgrades will make your rig much more powerful and stable for crawling without extra overweighting, loss of performance and extra money spending! 🙈👍🏻
Yep. We actually update the white one with new motor, sterling and all metal components at this point (didn’t do videos on that yet) but it’s a beast now.
um, were you trying to screw in the screws into the solid plastic without holes?? no shit you need to drill holes