Always check the intake manifold for broken flaps inside... it's more common than you think for them to fail and fall into the intake ports.....ask me how I know?
My 07 Q7 misfires multiple times on idle even making a popping sorta noise. I can smell raw fuel when it does that . I can’t even drive it around the block . I’ve changed the spark plugs , injectors but no luck . What else could it be ?
You need to determine which cylinder or cylinders are causing the problem. Look at the misfire counters in generic OBD2 side to see history misfire counts. It could be a bad coil, ignition wiring, mechanical problem inside the engine etc. How were the intake ports when you had the intake off to replace injectors. What injectors did you use.
Phill, Good information as always and i wounder if Prince Auto in Canada as u now may be carry the walnut cleaning machine or not thanks for sharing brotha.
Will the tool pull out those stuck injectors? I seriously doubt it as it only grabs the plastic part of tge injector as far as I can tell. I watched a video where the tech just pulled them out with his fingers. Not on this baby...
Yes it could be. Need to confirm high pressure fuel pressure does not leak down after shut down. Also carbon on intake valves can cause intermittent misfires. Is the miss cinfinded to a single cylinder? Mode 6 misfire counts will show this. If its on one bank you could have a restricted cat converter. Could be bad coil if one cylinder. Swap or replace coil see if misfire moves.
No sorry I did not get that detailed. It is pretty straight forward. Just take your time removing components and take note of how everything was connected prior. I did note that due to the rigid high pressure fuel line that comes from under the back of the intake you need to lift the front of the manifold up quite high to get it out from under the pipe and the throttle body stays on the manifold. There are some challenging fasteners at the rear for sure. If you shoot me your email I'll see if I can find the written procedure...
@@PhillipBailey You are truly amazing man. This passage gave me the confidence to tackle. I just did my Valve cover Gaskets so i know a thing or two but a car this pricey, without a guide i seemed lost.when i look you are correct very straight forward. After i take the big fuel line hub thing off i should be able to access anything else i need to. P.s throttle body is already loose from i guess previous owner. Anything else that i should be careful of. Is the fuel lines reversed threaded?? When tighting them can i tight to snug or overtighten a little? Plus i might hydrodip while out i have never seen someone with a hydrodipped intake.
@@ellis2311 yes even the information systems are lacking on the steps to disassemble. I had to request the information from them as its not openly available. The fuel lines are normal thread. Obviously there is a torque for everything but you need their special crowfoot adapter to use a torque wrench on the lines. The fittings are stainless so can handle quite a bit of torque. If the system is holding pressure then there could be up to 2000 psi pressure in tge fuel rail so be sure to use your safety squint. Put a rag over the fitting as you loosen. There will not be much volume. There are some hard to reach fasteners at the back of the manifold. There is an aluminum brace between the manifold and oil cooler thats difficult to access. Make sure you put paper towels in all the ports while working so you don't accidentally drop something into them. Good luck.
@@ellis2311 one more thing... make sure you turn the engine so that the intake valves are closed before cleaning each port. I used various angled pick tools to break off the large chunks of carbon. You don't want a piece falling into the cylinder.
I have a 2007 q7 4.2, I’m in process of changing all 8 injectors and just noticed I only have 6 of the metal clips and I already tossed all the old stuff a couple days ago but now I’m in a bind and need my car ready to go in the am. Do you see an issue with installing each injector without the metal clips that go on the injectors? I can’t see an issue myself with just installing them, I can’t see where they could go anywhere once the rail is bolted in? Figured I’d get your opinion since you know way more about VAG cars then I do. Love your videos btw
There's more than one part involved. There is the compression retainer and the upper seal. I don't think the upper seal is that important but the retainer holds the injector into the head. Without the retainer combustion pressure might push the injectors up. Service literature says they must not be reused. They should come with the injectors imo.
Thanks for the reply, so the thicker metal piece that sits on top of injector between rail and injector that is the important one? I have all those but missing two of the thinnner metal piece that goes under the injector between injector and head
@@rcarney8848 I looked at the assembly again and I'd say they are both important. The gasket on the lower piece will affect the installed height. I'd recommend to find them.
I have a p2005 code for my 2010 audi q7 4.2 im not the brighest with cars but some symptons ive noticed is. 1. Fuel smell inside the cabin 2. Poor gas mileage 3. Less power at low rpms (If I press the acceleration the car rpms go up slowly till 3000 rpms and then after 3000ish I feel power) 4. Jerks between gears (not smooth like before) 5. Ive also noticed that the car sounds completely fine after a couple minutes (only on cold start, on a warm start it sounds fine) 6. In the summer there was no check engine light in the fall it was on and off and then in the winter its been permanently on since then Hopefully You can give me a rough idea of whats wrong A friend of mine told me it may just be carbon build up since this is a direct injection engine Another friend told me it may be a vaccum line Although id love to hear ur opinion aswell.
Hello. That code I believe is for a problem with the intake manifold runner flap being stuck either open or closed. Depending on which position it's stuck in it can affect engine performance. I doubt its the cause of the fuel smell though. Audi does not publish a troubleshooting chart for code as they have them built into their scan tool. There are two small vacuum diaphragms at the front of the intake manifold, one on each side. Have a look and see if the actuator linkages are in the same place on each side. Try pulling the vacuum hoses off at an idle. I don't believe there should be any vacuum at an idle. May require a new intake manifold. I'll like to another video shortly that may help you identify what I'm talking about. Hope this helps you
@@PhillipBailey hey man thanks for ur input, i had another question. I noticed that my HPFP is also leaking could that be connected to the p2005 code or the cause of smell inside the car.
Pull plugs and look inside the combustion chamber....you will see/hear/smell if any fuel injectors are leaking.
Always check the intake manifold for broken flaps inside... it's more common than you think for them to fail and fall into the intake ports.....ask me how I know?
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep that in mind if I ever get another one. I hope not...
thank you for the video , you help me find my problem on my g7 , need new injectors
Good luck replacing them.
@@PhillipBailey i wanna ask do the new injectors need coding ?
My 07 Q7 misfires multiple times on idle even making a popping sorta noise. I can smell raw fuel when it does that . I can’t even drive it around the block . I’ve changed the spark plugs , injectors but no luck . What else could it be ?
You need to determine which cylinder or cylinders are causing the problem. Look at the misfire counters in generic OBD2 side to see history misfire counts. It could be a bad coil, ignition wiring, mechanical problem inside the engine etc. How were the intake ports when you had the intake off to replace injectors. What injectors did you use.
Phill, Good information as always and i wounder if Prince Auto in Canada as u now may be carry the walnut cleaning machine or not thanks for sharing brotha.
Yes but it was cheaper at the time from thr USA even with the exchange.
Also invest in an injector removal/installer tool ...makes this job a lot easier and it also contains the dies to shape the Teflon seal.
Will the tool pull out those stuck injectors? I seriously doubt it as it only grabs the plastic part of tge injector as far as I can tell. I watched a video where the tech just pulled them out with his fingers. Not on this baby...
I have a 2008 a8 and I changed all the spark plugs and coils and my car still reads misfires so could this be the problem
Yes it could be. Need to confirm high pressure fuel pressure does not leak down after shut down. Also carbon on intake valves can cause intermittent misfires. Is the miss cinfinded to a single cylinder? Mode 6 misfire counts will show this. If its on one bank you could have a restricted cat converter. Could be bad coil if one cylinder. Swap or replace coil see if misfire moves.
I was wondering if you ever uploaded a step by step on the removal of the Intake. I searched your Uploads and could not find it.
No sorry I did not get that detailed. It is pretty straight forward. Just take your time removing components and take note of how everything was connected prior. I did note that due to the rigid high pressure fuel line that comes from under the back of the intake you need to lift the front of the manifold up quite high to get it out from under the pipe and the throttle body stays on the manifold. There are some challenging fasteners at the rear for sure. If you shoot me your email I'll see if I can find the written procedure...
@@PhillipBailey You are truly amazing man. This passage gave me the confidence to tackle. I just did my Valve cover Gaskets so i know a thing or two but a car this pricey, without a guide i seemed lost.when i look you are correct very straight forward. After i take the big fuel line hub thing off i should be able to access anything else i need to. P.s throttle body is already loose from i guess previous owner. Anything else that i should be careful of. Is the fuel lines reversed threaded?? When tighting them can i tight to snug or overtighten a little? Plus i might hydrodip while out i have never seen someone with a hydrodipped intake.
@@ellis2311 yes even the information systems are lacking on the steps to disassemble. I had to request the information from them as its not openly available. The fuel lines are normal thread. Obviously there is a torque for everything but you need their special crowfoot adapter to use a torque wrench on the lines. The fittings are stainless so can handle quite a bit of torque. If the system is holding pressure then there could be up to 2000 psi pressure in tge fuel rail so be sure to use your safety squint. Put a rag over the fitting as you loosen. There will not be much volume. There are some hard to reach fasteners at the back of the manifold. There is an aluminum brace between the manifold and oil cooler thats difficult to access. Make sure you put paper towels in all the ports while working so you don't accidentally drop something into them. Good luck.
@@ellis2311 one more thing... make sure you turn the engine so that the intake valves are closed before cleaning each port. I used various angled pick tools to break off the large chunks of carbon. You don't want a piece falling into the cylinder.
@@PhillipBailey THANK YOU SO MUCH. I WILL KEEP YOU UP TO DATE WITH ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING.
hmm... where is your garage Phil? I think I need this one as well. hahah
I'm just outside of Thunder Bay in Ontario Canada eh...
Do you have to replace the injector retainers and upper rings or kan I reuse the old one?
They must be replaced and are not included with the injectors. Need to order individual kits.
@@PhillipBailey why? Elsa don’t say they need replacing?🤔🤔
@@vistkri they will get destroyed removing the injectors. go ahead and try if you like...
I have a 2007 q7 4.2, I’m in process of changing all 8 injectors and just noticed I only have 6 of the metal clips and I already tossed all the old stuff a couple days ago but now I’m in a bind and need my car ready to go in the am. Do you see an issue with installing each injector without the metal clips that go on the injectors? I can’t see an issue myself with just installing them, I can’t see where they could go anywhere once the rail is bolted in? Figured I’d get your opinion since you know way more about VAG cars then I do. Love your videos btw
There's more than one part involved. There is the compression retainer and the upper seal. I don't think the upper seal is that important but the retainer holds the injector into the head. Without the retainer combustion pressure might push the injectors up. Service literature says they must not be reused. They should come with the injectors imo.
Thanks for the reply, so the thicker metal piece that sits on top of injector between rail and injector that is the important one? I have all those but missing two of the thinnner metal piece that goes under the injector between injector and head
@@rcarney8848 I looked at the assembly again and I'd say they are both important. The gasket on the lower piece will affect the installed height. I'd recommend to find them.
I enjoy your videos thanks for sharing
I have a p2005 code for my 2010 audi q7 4.2 im not the brighest with cars but some symptons ive noticed is.
1. Fuel smell inside the cabin
2. Poor gas mileage
3. Less power at low rpms (If I press the acceleration the car rpms go up slowly till 3000 rpms and then after 3000ish I feel power)
4. Jerks between gears (not smooth like before)
5. Ive also noticed that the car sounds completely fine after a couple minutes (only on cold start, on a warm start it sounds fine)
6. In the summer there was no check engine light in the fall it was on and off and then in the winter its been permanently on since then
Hopefully You can give me a rough idea of whats wrong
A friend of mine told me it may just be carbon build up since this is a direct injection engine
Another friend told me it may be a vaccum line
Although id love to hear ur opinion aswell.
Hello. That code I believe is for a problem with the intake manifold runner flap being stuck either open or closed. Depending on which position it's stuck in it can affect engine performance. I doubt its the cause of the fuel smell though. Audi does not publish a troubleshooting chart for code as they have them built into their scan tool. There are two small vacuum diaphragms at the front of the intake manifold, one on each side. Have a look and see if the actuator linkages are in the same place on each side. Try pulling the vacuum hoses off at an idle. I don't believe there should be any vacuum at an idle. May require a new intake manifold. I'll like to another video shortly that may help you identify what I'm talking about. Hope this helps you
Here's a video that shows the runner control
th-cam.com/video/4Skun_4tQHk/w-d-xo.html
Here's a v6 which is similar. th-cam.com/video/O9TL8dO0NyI/w-d-xo.html
@@PhillipBailey hey man thanks for ur input, i had another question. I noticed that my HPFP is also leaking could that be connected to the p2005 code or the cause of smell inside the car.