Thank you for the very clear explanation….. tons of searching for the Answer to this very question, and no one seems to be able to give a simple explanation. Thank you !
Great explanation. I use both on my layout. 83 is prototypical scale to US rail but I like to use 100 on my mainline and heavy yard use. I use 83 in the engine facilities and industry tracks on my layout. Something to keep in mind, Walther's turntables and kits where you glue track on the base requires code 83. I also use Atlas and some Peco. When I do connect a code 83 to 100, I will file down the the 100 rail to match the 83 height. - Jason
@@brennenseibert1614 Understand that code 100 is taller in height than code 83. You may be able to adjust the transition with a dremel. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I tend stick with code 100 throughout my layout. I also understand that code 83 is more prototypical to scale. However, I have found that all of my loco's run better on code 100 with fewer derailment issues. Bear in mind that steamers are a different breed when it comes to Pilot truck issues. A lot of the steamers on the market have a spring on the Pilot trucks that are adjustable in tension and this will alleviate most issue with some trial and error. Just experiment and have fun. Don't let the frustation get the best of you. Happy Railroading...
There is another point between code 100, 83, 70, and 55. Code 100 is toy like in appearance. Code 83 represents true main line rails and ties while 70 and lower represents branch line, spurs, sidings, etc.
I do not trust digital calipers or micrometers. I prefer a dial or a graduated gauge that has to be read. You can see how much time is wasted zeroing the scale. Shars sells nice quality calipers at a very reasonable price and even at the upper end of their inaccuracy standards, I feel I am getting good readings, especially when comparing to a high quality micrometer. No batteries to replace, just make sure it is on zero or adjust the dial if not and start measuring. I always clean the mating surfaces of the jaws with a clean finger before setting the dial to zero.
There is not only a big difference between code 83 and code 100. There's a huge one between manufacturers. If you're a serious modeler, code 83 should be the very start. Code 100 looks too big and it's way out of scale. Micro engineering is the BEST looking track in the business. PECO streamline is a very nice one too. Atlas (tracks and turnouts) should be avoid at any cost. It's a cheap track that looks awful to my point of view. And their turnouts are trouble makers. When you want something nice... you need to pay more. Then you get the best of your layout. Track is the basic of model railroading. There should never be compromises when it comes to it.
Code 80 is more true to scale. Why did you measure it in metric? If you measured it in imperial, it would have been obvious to the newbie that one is 0.080” and the original, not to scale, is 0.100” thick or high. It’s a whole 0.020” difference! It only makes a difference to the rivet counter group. The more important point is to not mix and match the two code rail types as it can cause derailments at the joints.
dis was wery educational...thanks. Not sure why you want brass turnouts...I'm with you on flex track...I hate that with a passion. I stick with cookie cutter track layouts so I NEVER have a need for the flex.
Why are you using brass turnouts? is there a reason for that, or all you had at the time scenario? not trying to be rude or smart, generally curious as I am learning all of this to start my own layout. thanks!
Why the brass turnouts, are they more reliable?, I have Bachman ez tracks and the turnouts suck, they are.the cause of so many derailments, I am going to switch tracks but not sure if I will use Peco or Atlas, or code 83 or 100, I would appreciate your input, thanks for the great videos , John
John, My father and I started my first layout when I was 10 years old. We used Atlas code 100. As you can imagine, I was away from the hobby for several decades. When I got back into the hobby six years ago, I started with EZ and Snap track on a 8 X 7 table. I absolutely hated that track, as I found myself dealing with problems on a regular basis. I ripped everything off of the bench and started over with a 21 X 8.5 layout using old reliable Atlas code 100 track and turnouts. (Except for the turnouts, the majority of the new layout is Atlas Flex track.) I prefer code 100 because of the track depth. It affords much better reliability and and virtually zero derailments. Turnouts in any brand are tricky as they MUST be aligned properly. If not, you will have problems with your steam loco's. The trick I have found is to test my track with my steamer's, simply because if they run properly through the turnout's, everything will. I am always happy to help whenever I can and may also be reached at houdini2222@yahoo.com Pat
@@birdbrainmodelrails9701 thanks for your help, and yes my steamers are the biggest derailers, I have diesel also but love the steam engines , I am gonna go with the code 100.
Its simple...the code stands for the equivalent height in inches... Code 83 rail is 0.083 inches high where code 100 is 0.10 inches high BTW....youre using a dial caliper not a micrometer
@@Greatdome99 No. I'm not asking the gauge. I need the thickness or width of rail head. Actually in real 60kg/metre rail, the width of the rail head measures 74.3mm. So, what is this value in ho scale for peco and Atlas brands (code 83 and 100)? Please check it with a vernier caliper and tell me. It should be around 1mm. But please tell me the exact value of both the brand flexible tracks. The reason I ask this value is I have plans to create a new gauge of 25mm by removing the ho scale rails off the sleepers and then fix them on my own newly designed 3d printed sleepers. Other parts and rolling stock has to be 3D printed. Please reply.
there is something wrong with your video, it lags really bad, i have to wait every 10 seconds for it to continue, No other videos from other channels do this. What gives?
Thank you for the very clear explanation….. tons of searching for the
Answer to this very question, and no one seems to be able to give a simple explanation. Thank you !
thank you for the clear explanations without all the distractions
Great explanation. I use both on my layout. 83 is prototypical scale to US rail but I like to use 100 on my mainline and heavy yard use. I use 83 in the engine facilities and industry tracks on my layout. Something to keep in mind, Walther's turntables and kits where you glue track on the base requires code 83. I also use Atlas and some Peco. When I do connect a code 83 to 100, I will file down the the 100 rail to match the 83 height. - Jason
I just stick to code 100....it's universal for all HO scale trains.
Agreed
This was really helpful! I've been trying to figure out the difference between Code 83 and code 100 and you explained it perfectly. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
@@birdbrainmodelrails9701 I'm just curious we'll code 100 work with code 83 track if you connect them together
@@brennenseibert1614 Understand that code 100 is taller in height than code 83. You may be able to adjust the transition with a dremel. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I tend stick with code 100 throughout my layout. I also understand that code 83 is more prototypical to scale. However, I have found that all of my loco's run better on code 100 with fewer derailment issues. Bear in mind that steamers are a different breed when it comes to Pilot truck issues. A lot of the steamers on the market have a spring on the Pilot trucks that are adjustable in tension and this will alleviate most issue with some trial and error. Just experiment and have fun. Don't let the frustation get the best of you. Happy Railroading...
There is another point between code 100, 83, 70, and 55. Code 100 is toy like in appearance. Code 83 represents true main line rails and ties while 70 and lower represents branch line, spurs, sidings, etc.
Very nice explanation.....thanks!
Yes, code 100 is what I'll be using. Runs everything.
I do not trust digital calipers or micrometers. I prefer a dial or a graduated gauge that has to be read. You can see how much time is wasted zeroing the scale. Shars sells nice quality calipers at a very reasonable price and even at the upper end of their inaccuracy standards, I feel I am getting good readings, especially when comparing to a high quality micrometer. No batteries to replace, just make sure it is on zero or adjust the dial if not and start measuring. I always clean the mating surfaces of the jaws with a clean finger before setting the dial to zero.
There is not only a big difference between code 83 and code 100. There's a huge one between manufacturers. If you're a serious modeler, code 83 should be the very start. Code 100 looks too big and it's way out of scale. Micro engineering is the BEST looking track in the business. PECO streamline is a very nice one too. Atlas (tracks and turnouts) should be avoid at any cost. It's a cheap track that looks awful to my point of view. And their turnouts are trouble makers. When you want something nice... you need to pay more. Then you get the best of your layout. Track is the basic of model railroading. There should never be compromises when it comes to it.
Code 80 is more true to scale. Why did you measure it in metric? If you measured it in imperial, it would have been obvious to the newbie that one is 0.080” and the original, not to scale, is 0.100” thick or high. It’s a whole 0.020” difference! It only makes a difference to the rivet counter group. The more important point is to not mix and match the two code rail types as it can cause derailments at the joints.
Just built my layout with 83 If had to do over I would go 100. Good Presentation
Why?
Gee, all this stuff is a mind job for newbies like me !
You can call me at 843-305-1042
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dis was wery educational...thanks. Not sure why you want brass turnouts...I'm with you on flex track...I hate that with a passion. I stick with cookie cutter track layouts so I NEVER have a need for the flex.
Why are you using brass turnouts? is there a reason for that, or all you had at the time scenario? not trying to be rude or smart, generally curious as I am learning all of this to start my own layout. thanks!
I am using Atlas track.
I’m sorry I’m not following. You use nickel for the main track and brass for the turnouts and I’m just wondering why that is? Conductivity reasons??
Excellent job...just remove the ashtray...smoke residue tarnishes brass..again thanks
Thanks for the explanation Pat. Also want to thank you for your service. Just curious - what did you do in the Air Force?
Most welcome. I was a Law Enforcement Spec.
It is a small detail, but the measuring tool is *calipers* not micrometer.
Why the brass turnouts, are they more reliable?, I have Bachman ez tracks and the turnouts suck, they are.the cause of so many derailments, I am going to switch tracks but not sure if I will use Peco or Atlas, or code 83 or 100, I would appreciate your input, thanks for the great videos , John
John,
My father and I started my first layout when I was 10 years old. We used Atlas code 100. As you can imagine, I was away from the hobby for several decades. When I got back into the hobby six years ago, I started with EZ and Snap track on a 8 X 7 table. I absolutely hated that track, as I found myself dealing with problems on a regular basis. I ripped everything off of the bench and started over with a 21 X 8.5 layout using old reliable Atlas code 100 track and turnouts. (Except for the turnouts, the majority of the new layout is Atlas Flex track.) I prefer code 100 because of the track depth. It affords much better reliability and and virtually zero derailments. Turnouts in any brand are tricky as they MUST be aligned properly. If not, you will have problems with your steam loco's. The trick I have found is to test my track with my steamer's, simply because if they run properly through the turnout's, everything will. I am always happy to help whenever I can and may also be reached at houdini2222@yahoo.com
Pat
@@birdbrainmodelrails9701 thanks for your help, and yes my steamers are the biggest derailers, I have diesel also but love the steam engines , I am gonna go with the code 100.
now i want a cigarette.
great video!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Is that metric half O?
The ASE ho code 100 is ,100" tall and code 83 is .083" tall.
So I'm told.
😁
I'm not understanding your question...
Its simple...the code stands for the equivalent height in inches...
Code 83 rail is 0.083 inches high where code 100 is 0.10 inches high
BTW....youre using a dial caliper not a micrometer
been running ho trains since 1973 and this is the best explanation I have seen. great video.
If you haven't already. Please like and subscribe to my channel. Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
What is the thickness or width of the rail head portion of code 83 and code 100 tracks?
Doesn't matter. "Gauge" is the distance from the inner surface of rails to each other.
@@Greatdome99
No. I'm not asking the gauge. I need the thickness or width of rail head.
Actually in real 60kg/metre rail, the width of the rail head measures 74.3mm.
So, what is this value in ho scale for peco and Atlas brands (code 83 and 100)?
Please check it with a vernier caliper and tell me. It should be around 1mm. But please tell me the exact value of both the brand flexible tracks.
The reason I ask this value is I have plans to create a new gauge of 25mm by removing the ho scale rails off the sleepers and then fix them on my own newly designed 3d printed sleepers. Other parts and rolling stock has to be 3D printed.
Please reply.
Thank You! This is the info I needed
are you serious?
Yes
there is something wrong with your video, it lags really bad, i have to wait every 10 seconds for it to continue, No other videos from other channels do this. What gives?
Works fine for everyone else.