I haven’t adjusted valves in a long time but I always gave the crank about another 1/8th to 1/4 turn after the valve closed to land somewhere on the base of the lobe. I suppose this is the same result. This seems just a little quicker than my method but same results. Never even heard of the TDC method to adjust valves. Love your videos. I’m getting ready to button up the top end of my FE390.
For mechanical lifters I use EIOC. For hydraulic I use TDC on compression. It's been great for just shy of 50 years. The carb spacers you are using generally are good for a 10 to 12 degree temp reduction at the carb. When you need more heat reduction, I make 1/6 aluminum heat sink plates. Good for another 10+° some, call them heat shields. They are heat sinks.
I always used EOIC method because I was too lazy to mark the balancer, but had a buddy who used TDC method with a marked balancer and he theoretically could run his valves quicker. Only real way to hit TDC quickly and accurately is with a long 1/2” ratchet on crank bolt and spark plugs removed, which is fine for folks who look at their plugs every time they run the valves which is common on nitrous or boosted cars.
I do the tdc method, my balance is marked every 90. It’s kinda hard to get my hands down in a stockish car and wrench the crank bolt like that. Plus it’s a sbf, it’s easy to pop the cap off the distributor and see where you’re at. Now if I had a starter button under the hood I’d do it the other way. Have been thinking about putting one under there, but like I said, it’s no race car,
1) Turn each cylinder up to TDC Compression and then beyond it about a 1/4 inch. That is the center of "when" you want the valves to really really seal well. This method also takes into account bent camshafts and sloppy bearings. 2) ESPECIALLY on V-engines where the lifters are "shoving the camshaft back and forth in it's bearings" - After you adjust all the valves spin the engine a good while with the starter. Then Check them all again. The rule is A) Any valves that "got tighter" must be readjusted to correct spec. B) Any valves that loosened up - have to be left loose = not re-adjusted. 3) Spin it and check it again. You are not done until there are no more tight valves after it is spun.
In the head, the push rod goes through the port, but it is just a rounded cover, The smoothed cover flow seems bad VS keeping the air Fuel Kaotic going pass the push rod interference, We Should want to keep the Air Fuel, Tumbling past the push rod cover?
Man I dont know anyone ever using the "TDC Method" . Ive been settting lash on FEs and other Fords for 40 years and I always just push down with my thumb on the pushrod end of the rocker while spinning the engine over to get the initial lash and then ofcourse over a few times with the feeler in there if I cannot for some reason not use my P&G . ..The P&G valve gapper is the best thing since sliced bread altho it doesnt fit on alot of modern aftermarket valve train. Every solid lifter equiped car should have a starter button on each side of the engine bay where its comfortable to work it it just makes your life easier. Love this little tunnel port , that should make a little noise ..
Keeping the heat out of the fuel makes the largest difference. Good call for the application. The phenolic spacers will minimize the heat transfer to the carburetors and the fuel. Cheapest and most effective modification to keep power output constant.
I worry about your supply problems. I ordered a master cylinder for my old 72 Mustang from Rock Auto and it came in a week. I don't think it is even American made.
Ok, i jumped the gun......you DO show TDC comp stroke......my balacer/damper is marked, and is super easy and quick to chk.....ones NOT marked, u just pop the plug, and turn over to TDC, using a small screwdriver to ensure TDC........or mark an "un marked" balancer/damper......its easy enuf to do.....TDC/firing order is quick and easy.....i can chk my lash in no time.......i ALWAYS chk b4 racing it.....10 min, i'm done.......over 30 yrs, NEVER an issue.......sorry i jumped the gun.....lash method will ALWAYS be a topic of contention.....still LOVE the build, either way!!
@lykinsmotorsports i gotcha.....the EOIC method is quicker for a road race deal maybe.......but again TDC/comp stroke method is tried and true as well......I wasnt tryin to be a jerk......just rileyed me up while sippin coffee on a Sun morn.......I'll stick with my TDC/comp stroke.......my balancer is marked.......but you are spot on, of cors, with the EOIC way......I just shudnt have lashed out........TY for tolerating me.......Oh, and what about you divin into Eric's SBF cam challenge........your quite cam savvy I must say (especialy ANYTHING Ford)....ur at the TOP of my list......again, TY for tolerating me, and I apologize for ranting a bit......TY sir!!
You did the TDC method wrong.......the TDC method works fine, when your on the POWER stroke, NOT OVERLAP........firing order......valves HAVE to be closed to fire....WHY did you example TDC method, on the OVERLAP stroke......I mean duh, valves will be open......on comp/power stroke, they HAVE to be closed......I've used TDC/firing order method for over 30 years, NEVER had an issue.....NEVER!!....just sayin
Thankyou for sharing this method.
Its a whole lot easier to adjust valves this way especially when trying to turn a diesel over .
Thanks for the visual, making sure i have been doing it right.
I haven’t adjusted valves in a long time but I always gave the crank about another 1/8th to 1/4 turn after the valve closed to land somewhere on the base of the lobe. I suppose this is the same result. This seems just a little quicker than my method but same results. Never even heard of the TDC method to adjust valves.
Love your videos. I’m getting ready to button up the top end of my FE390.
I use the EOIC method.
Will using those open whole spacers over the 8 hole intake impede the airflow and distribution ? Dyno knows I suppose .
No
Ok thats good news@lykinsmotorsports
I have been using this method for several years
Two of my favorites !!!
For mechanical lifters I use EIOC. For hydraulic I use TDC on compression. It's been great for just shy of 50 years. The carb spacers you are using generally are good for a 10 to 12 degree temp reduction at the carb. When you need more heat reduction, I make 1/6 aluminum heat sink plates. Good for another 10+° some, call them heat shields. They are heat sinks.
I always used EOIC method because I was too lazy to mark the balancer, but had a buddy who used TDC method with a marked balancer and he theoretically could run his valves quicker. Only real way to hit TDC quickly and accurately is with a long 1/2” ratchet on crank bolt and spark plugs removed, which is fine for folks who look at their plugs every time they run the valves which is common on nitrous or boosted cars.
I'd be interested in having a valve lash race. :-)
I do the tdc method, my balance is marked every 90. It’s kinda hard to get my hands down in a stockish car and wrench the crank bolt like that. Plus it’s a sbf, it’s easy to pop the cap off the distributor and see where you’re at. Now if I had a starter button under the hood I’d do it the other way. Have been thinking about putting one under there, but like I said, it’s no race car,
1) Turn each cylinder up to TDC Compression and then beyond it about a 1/4 inch. That is the center of "when" you want the valves to really really seal well. This method also takes into account bent camshafts and sloppy bearings. 2) ESPECIALLY on V-engines where the lifters are "shoving the camshaft back and forth in it's bearings" - After you adjust all the valves spin the engine a good while with the starter. Then Check them all again. The rule is A) Any valves that "got tighter" must be readjusted to correct spec. B) Any valves that loosened up - have to be left loose = not re-adjusted. 3) Spin it and check it again. You are not done until there are no more tight valves after it is spun.
You obviously have no experience with big solid roller race cams.
EOIC method puts the lifter on the base circle of the lobe.
do you know when you will take more orders?
Thanks Brent!
Thank-you
I would think that 4 hole spacers would keep the air flow speed up ??
One thing I’ve found out is that it’s always engine dependent and engines don’t always think the way I do. That’s why I always try multiple spacers.
Thank you
What body is that going in with such a tall intake setup?
It would fit in a truck quite nicely
In the head, the push rod goes through the port, but it is just a rounded cover, The smoothed cover flow seems bad VS keeping the air Fuel Kaotic going pass the push rod interference, We Should want to keep the Air Fuel, Tumbling past the push rod cover?
Man I dont know anyone ever using the "TDC Method" . Ive been settting lash on FEs and other Fords for 40 years and I always just push down with my thumb on the pushrod end of the rocker while spinning the engine over to get the initial lash and then ofcourse over a few times with the feeler in there if I cannot for some reason not use my P&G . ..The P&G valve gapper is the best thing since sliced bread altho it doesnt fit on alot of modern aftermarket valve train. Every solid lifter equiped car should have a starter button on each side of the engine bay where its comfortable to work it it just makes your life easier. Love this little tunnel port , that should make a little noise ..
I use the let my mechanic do it method
I’m an EO IC guy…
I found the easiest way to adjust valves is to have a Ford, no valve adjustment 😂
Pretty ignorant comment lol.
Keeping the heat out of the fuel makes the largest difference. Good call for the application. The phenolic spacers will minimize the heat transfer to the carburetors and the fuel. Cheapest and most effective modification to keep power output constant.
I worry about your supply problems. I ordered a master cylinder for my old 72 Mustang from Rock Auto and it came in a week. I don't think it is even American made.
Ok, i jumped the gun......you DO show TDC comp stroke......my balacer/damper is marked, and is super easy and quick to chk.....ones NOT marked, u just pop the plug, and turn over to TDC, using a small screwdriver to ensure TDC........or mark an "un marked" balancer/damper......its easy enuf to do.....TDC/firing order is quick and easy.....i can chk my lash in no time.......i ALWAYS chk b4 racing it.....10 min, i'm done.......over 30 yrs, NEVER an issue.......sorry i jumped the gun.....lash method will ALWAYS be a topic of contention.....still LOVE the build, either way!!
Never have to mark a balancer, pull a distributor cap, or pull spark plugs with the EOIC method.
@lykinsmotorsports i gotcha.....the EOIC method is quicker for a road race deal maybe.......but again TDC/comp stroke method is tried and true as well......I wasnt tryin to be a jerk......just rileyed me up while sippin coffee on a Sun morn.......I'll stick with my TDC/comp stroke.......my balancer is marked.......but you are spot on, of cors, with the EOIC way......I just shudnt have lashed out........TY for tolerating me.......Oh, and what about you divin into Eric's SBF cam challenge........your quite cam savvy I must say (especialy ANYTHING Ford)....ur at the TOP of my list......again, TY for tolerating me, and I apologize for ranting a bit......TY sir!!
You did the TDC method wrong.......the TDC method works fine, when your on the POWER stroke, NOT OVERLAP........firing order......valves HAVE to be closed to fire....WHY did you example TDC method, on the OVERLAP stroke......I mean duh, valves will be open......on comp/power stroke, they HAVE to be closed......I've used TDC/firing order method for over 30 years, NEVER had an issue.....NEVER!!....just sayin
TDC method works but EOIC method is quicker and 100% failsafe.