Thanks for this video. I opened my unit and found a single combined 3-post Run/Start Capacitor (60+5)additional 10 Microfarad Capacitor tie-strapped to wires on the side. It looked like an add-on, but because of urgency(late and no AC) I replaced ONLY the (60+5) and all was well. I also noticed a Kick-Start has been installed at some time. After your video, I went back in to see how this additional 10MicroFarad was wired. It has 2 Black Wires running to it. Do I remove these, and reconnect them, and discard the 10MicroFarad now that I have a good/tested Start/Run Capacitor installed now? Will the errant 10MicroFarad damage anything being used in conjunction with the standard 60+5? Or, do I leave it alone, close it up, and walk backwards from it being thankful it works or what?
I have the same issue. I have a dual capacitor connected to the compressor and a single capacitor connected to the fan motor. I installed a new dual capacitor. I want to connect the fan motor to the dual capacitor and do away with the single capacitor for the fan. Does it matter which fan motor lead goes on common or fan of the dual capacitor? Thanks
Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. A mouse chewed one of the wires going from the compressor in my AC unit near the capacitor. It tripped my breaker and shut down the unit. The capacitor was burned out and needs replacing. However, I also need to add a new small piece of wiring from the existing wire to the compressor back to the new capacitor. What gauge wire can be used? Can I replace with 14 gauge wire and just install the new terminals?
If you can read the wire size, it is best to match the wire size the unit uses. If you can't read the wire size, the amps the capacitor uses can point to the gauge needed. (If it was me, 14 gauge will likely work, but if in doubt, use 12 gauge.)
I have an old inverted V 1983 Whirlpool heat pump. I checked the electrical panel and I saw a single oval 7.5 microfarad capacitor which I assume is for the fan motor. Then, I saw a big grey cylinder which I assume is the capacitor for the compressor. I didn't have any writing on it. On the top, it had two sets of 4 posts on top of white plastic and then a small single post which had a yellow wire going to the strap-on bolt. I have no idea what compressor to get to replace it when it goes bad. It's a 2 1/2 ton heat pump system. Everything, as of this writing is working great. But I want to be ready.
Trying to replace original capacitors on 32-yr-old unit. One oval 7.5uf, one round 35uf, each has two terminals that has 4 tines. AC supply sold me two “run” capacitors… shouldn’t one be a start capacitor?
It is most likely that the 7.5 mf is for the fan and the 35 mf is for the compressor. Both of them being left in circuit the entire time. i.e. they are run capacitors.
Thanks for your video. I have a question for you. Electrician says I need to replace my "start capacitor". He installed a 50 amp power inlet to run my house off my generator in case I lose power one day. When my AC kicks on it trips the 40 amp breaker on my generator. Should I replace the dual capacitor and/or the smaller oval shaped capacitor? I personally changed them both over a year ago but forget which one is the start capacitor. Thanks.
There is usually only a dual capacitor unless it was bypassed with a single oval; if in doubt, you could replace them both. Mini split units running on generators often need Hard Start Kits installed to help lower the apms that are pulled on startup. Hard Start Kits are basically added capacitors that hold an extra charge when the unit starts. Here is a link: www.hvachowto.com/how-to-install-a-hard-start-kit/
@@HVAC_Mechanic I meant to say this isn't a mini split. It's a central home AC unit with both dual and single capacitor. Lately the unit has been sounding bogged down when it kicks on and my lights flicker. I think I'll start with changing both capacitors since they're so inexpensive. If generator breaker still trips then I'll try that hard start kit. Thanks for your time and knowledge!
QUESTION: I have 2 capacitors, just as you described. The fan spins freely when off but seizes up when turned on. There is nothing connected to fan on the dual capacitor and 2 brown wires connected to the run capacitor. Assuming the run capacitor is for the fan, which of the 2 wires should be moved to "fan" on the dual capacitor? And, what about the 2nd wire? Thanks!
@@loganwhite6173 I did, thank God. What I remember is I went to the motor and grabbed all the cables and traced them all back to the board. Turned out there were more cables than I needed. I think there are 7 in total and I only needed 4 of them. I believe 2 of them went to the contactor and 2 to the capacitor. I think I moved one to "fan" and then it worked. I hope that helps.
Hi! I have a Monoco RV with a Carrier AirV roof a/c. The original capasitor went bad and luckily I found a used 370v 45/12uf dual run capacitor to get me operational. What I'm wondering is where do I get a wiring schematic that will show me how to split them. I have only found 1 45/12uf capacitor and it is to big to go back inside the connection box, so I would like to use a single 45 and 12 capacitors. Any help would be awesome!
I can't believe the first statement on messing with these capacitors is the safety factor. They can kill you. I worked with a fellow who failed to discharge the capacitor on his AC before touching the terminals. He died because he was alone at home when he decided to work on his AC unit and his heart was shunted by the high electrical charge.
BS. Capacitor holds enough power to give you a nasty shock. Especially one rated in the high 3's to 400's volt and higher capacitance ratings (130-600's uf) essentially anything anyone will be dealing with at home or in shop OUTSIDE of an industrial application DOES NOT have the ability to kill you UNLESS you have underlying cardiac issues and especially so if you are outfitted with a device like a Pace Maker. Outside of having a underlying medical condition or having a medical device like a pace maker you wont die. It'll be enough to put your hair on end, and bite you hard enough to HOPEFULLY send the message to NEVER do it again and make sure to bleed off the stored energy or AT LEAST keep your damn fingers or any other body part from bridging the two terminals, but it WILL not send the average person to the morgue, wheels up.
Actually, start capacitors do not suddenly release a charge, or “boost” anything, they simply shift the phase angle of current between the run windings vs start windings. This phase difference is what gives the motor a sense of direction to start rotation.
A motor capacitor is an electrical storage unit that stores and releases energy to increase the current to one or more copper windings of a single-phase motor to create this extra boost and increase the motor torque.
A start capacitor is connected to the motor windings through a centrifugal switch. It is used to increase motor starting torque and allow an electric motor to be cycled on and off rapidly
is there a downside to doing the workaround to add a single oval capacitor for the fan? I tested the dual round and the fan side was fine, so it seems like perhaps the previous technician just added a second capacitor and it worked for a year. Now , even after trying to simply replace the single oval capacitor, the fan still wont spin.
It does the same thing; it just takes up more space and may confuse someone working on the unit in the future. If the capacitor is replaced and the motor doesn't work, the motor has likely failed.
@@HVAC_Mechanic well the fan capacitor was bad. But it still doesn't turn on after replacing it. Kinda worried it's as serious as a motor. Need to test to make sure its getting full voltage
A tech didn't have the correct dual capacitor so he used a new dual capacitor for the compressor and added an extra capacitor for the fan that had the correct specifications. It was a work around because he didn't have the exact matching dual capacitor with him.
CPT acts as a kill switch between hard-start and compressor in the event of a failed run capacitor. It is not necessary to use but is an extra safety feature. The correct MFD and voltage values to the FAN and Compressor are the main thing.
I have a old rusted capacitor with 3 terminals but only two wires connected,i cant see the mfd or volts. Theres another smaller one with two terminals and 2 wires connected to it. Ac dont turn on. Why do i have two capacitors?
Thanks for this video. I opened my unit and found a single combined 3-post Run/Start Capacitor (60+5)additional 10 Microfarad Capacitor tie-strapped to wires on the side. It looked like an add-on, but because of urgency(late and no AC) I replaced ONLY the (60+5) and all was well. I also noticed a Kick-Start has been installed at some time. After your video, I went back in to see how this additional 10MicroFarad was wired. It has 2 Black Wires running to it. Do I remove these, and reconnect them, and discard the 10MicroFarad now that I have a good/tested Start/Run Capacitor installed now? Will the errant 10MicroFarad damage anything being used in conjunction with the standard 60+5? Or, do I leave it alone, close it up, and walk backwards from it being thankful it works or what?
I have the same issue. I have a dual capacitor connected to the compressor and a single capacitor connected to the fan motor. I installed a new dual capacitor. I want to connect the fan motor to the dual capacitor and do away with the single capacitor for the fan. Does it matter which fan motor lead goes on common or fan of the dual capacitor? Thanks
Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. A mouse chewed one of the wires going from the compressor in my AC unit near the capacitor. It tripped my breaker and shut down the unit. The capacitor was burned out and needs replacing. However, I also need to add a new small piece of wiring from the existing wire to the compressor back to the new capacitor. What gauge wire can be used? Can I replace with 14 gauge wire and just install the new terminals?
If you can read the wire size, it is best to match the wire size the unit uses. If you can't read the wire size, the amps the capacitor uses can point to the gauge needed. (If it was me, 14 gauge will likely work, but if in doubt, use 12 gauge.)
I have an old inverted V 1983 Whirlpool heat pump. I checked the electrical panel and I saw a single oval 7.5 microfarad capacitor which I assume is for the fan motor. Then, I saw a big grey cylinder which I assume is the capacitor for the compressor. I didn't have any writing on it. On the top, it had two sets of 4 posts on top of white plastic and then a small single post which had a yellow wire going to the strap-on bolt. I have no idea what compressor to get to replace it when it goes bad. It's a 2 1/2 ton heat pump system. Everything, as of this writing is working great. But I want to be ready.
Trying to replace original capacitors on 32-yr-old unit. One oval 7.5uf, one round 35uf, each has two terminals that has 4 tines. AC supply sold me two “run” capacitors… shouldn’t one be a start capacitor?
It is most likely that the 7.5 mf is for the fan and the 35 mf is for the compressor. Both of them being left in circuit the entire time. i.e. they are run capacitors.
Thanks for your video.
I have a question for you. Electrician says I need to replace my "start capacitor". He installed a 50 amp power inlet to run my house off my generator in case I lose power one day. When my AC kicks on it trips the 40 amp breaker on my generator. Should I replace the dual capacitor and/or the smaller oval shaped capacitor? I personally changed them both over a year ago but forget which one is the start capacitor.
Thanks.
There is usually only a dual capacitor unless it was bypassed with a single oval; if in doubt, you could replace them both. Mini split units running on generators often need Hard Start Kits installed to help lower the apms that are pulled on startup. Hard Start Kits are basically added capacitors that hold an extra charge when the unit starts. Here is a link: www.hvachowto.com/how-to-install-a-hard-start-kit/
@@HVAC_Mechanic I meant to say this isn't a mini split. It's a central home AC unit with both dual and single capacitor. Lately the unit has been sounding bogged down when it kicks on and my lights flicker. I think I'll start with changing both capacitors since they're so inexpensive. If generator breaker still trips then I'll try that hard start kit. Thanks for your time and knowledge!
QUESTION: I have 2 capacitors, just as you described. The fan spins freely when off but seizes up when turned on. There is nothing connected to fan on the dual capacitor and 2 brown wires connected to the run capacitor. Assuming the run capacitor is for the fan, which of the 2 wires should be moved to "fan" on the dual capacitor? And, what about the 2nd wire? Thanks!
I have this same exact issue now, did you figure this out?
@@loganwhite6173 I did, thank God. What I remember is I went to the motor and grabbed all the cables and traced them all back to the board. Turned out there were more cables than I needed. I think there are 7 in total and I only needed 4 of them. I believe 2 of them went to the contactor and 2 to the capacitor. I think I moved one to "fan" and then it worked. I hope that helps.
Hi! I have a Monoco RV with a Carrier AirV roof a/c. The original capasitor went bad and luckily I found a used 370v 45/12uf dual run capacitor to get me operational. What I'm wondering is where do I get a wiring schematic that will show me how to split them. I have only found 1 45/12uf capacitor and it is to big to go back inside the connection box, so I would like to use a single 45 and 12 capacitors. Any help would be awesome!
The 45uf should be for the compressor and the 12uf for the fan. The common leg will be shared. The wires can be followed to verify them.
I can't believe the first statement on messing with these capacitors is the safety factor. They can kill you. I worked with a fellow who failed to discharge the capacitor on his AC before touching the terminals. He died because he was alone at home when he decided to work on his AC unit and his heart was shunted by the high electrical charge.
He had to have a heart issue or was he standing in water?
BS. Capacitor holds enough power to give you a nasty shock. Especially one rated in the high 3's to 400's volt and higher capacitance ratings (130-600's uf) essentially anything anyone will be dealing with at home or in shop OUTSIDE of an industrial application DOES NOT have the ability to kill you UNLESS you have underlying cardiac issues and especially so if you are outfitted with a device like a Pace Maker. Outside of having a underlying medical condition or having a medical device like a pace maker you wont die. It'll be enough to put your hair on end, and bite you hard enough to HOPEFULLY send the message to NEVER do it again and make sure to bleed off the stored energy or AT LEAST keep your damn fingers or any other body part from bridging the two terminals, but it WILL not send the average person to the morgue, wheels up.
Actually, start capacitors do not suddenly release a charge, or “boost” anything, they simply shift the phase angle of current between the run windings vs start windings. This phase difference is what gives the motor a sense of direction to start rotation.
A motor capacitor is an electrical storage unit that stores and releases energy to increase the current to one or more copper windings of a single-phase motor to create this extra boost and increase the motor torque.
A start capacitor is connected to the motor windings through a centrifugal switch. It is used to increase motor starting torque and allow an electric motor to be cycled on and off rapidly
Can you go from a Oval capacitor to a round? As long as the numbers match?
Yes, as long as the voltage and micro farads match it can be used. It may not mount perfectly in the unit, but it would work.
is there a downside to doing the workaround to add a single oval capacitor for the fan? I tested the dual round and the fan side was fine, so it seems like perhaps the previous technician just added a second capacitor and it worked for a year.
Now , even after trying to simply replace the single oval capacitor, the fan still wont spin.
It does the same thing; it just takes up more space and may confuse someone working on the unit in the future. If the capacitor is replaced and the motor doesn't work, the motor has likely failed.
@@HVAC_Mechanic well the fan capacitor was bad. But it still doesn't turn on after replacing it. Kinda worried it's as serious as a motor. Need to test to make sure its getting full voltage
@@CENTAUR559Should be the motor then. But that’s easy to replace in my opinion.
A tech didn't have the correct dual capacitor so he used a new dual capacitor for the compressor and added an extra capacitor for the fan that had the correct specifications. It was a work around because he didn't have the exact matching dual capacitor with him.
Was this by any chance the titan pro ?
The Amrad I just got in has a 4th terminal labeled "CPT". The old one isnt like that. Can I just leave that terminal out? All values match.
CPT acts as a kill switch between hard-start and compressor in the event of a failed run capacitor. It is not necessary to use but is an extra safety feature. The correct MFD and voltage values to the FAN and Compressor are the main thing.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Thanks. I wasn't sure if not using that terminal would cause an issue. It's been working fine since yesterday.
I have a old rusted capacitor with 3 terminals but only two wires connected,i cant see the mfd or volts. Theres another smaller one with two terminals and 2 wires connected to it. Ac dont turn on. Why do i have two capacitors?
One is likely for the FAN and the other for the compressor HERM.
Thanks man seriously
Start= starter in your car. Run= the spark plugs + alternator.
If you have a 35+5 uf can you use a 45/5 uf ?
No, the Microfarads need to match. Volts can be higher but not Microfarads.
@HVAC_Mechanic thanks that's what I thought..
Thanks again
@@HVAC_Mechanic Can we replace a dead 45+7.5uf with a 45+5 uf