I'd love to see a leather and plate brigandine or a leather and riveted mail cuirass but both of those would be quite a bit of work. Somewhere down the line, perhaps.
I'm eternally grateful for the tips on leatherwork, Dark Horse Workshop. And shout-out to the Barbarian Freehold Alliance in California, for making my adult life as entertaining and challenging as my childhood.
Aw man. I have never done anything like this, armour or leather work, but I feel like apprenticing for someone like you would be the most amazing experience.
Check out your local chapter of the society for creative Anacronism. I am sure there are many wonderful artists there who would be thrilled at the chance of having an enthusiastic student!
I'm so glad your channel just popped up! Been trying to learn to make my own leather armour for a while now. I appreciate that you include your mistakes and comment on them, helps me learn better
I used to make elbows similar to this back in the late 90s and early 2000's. I used to get my leather wet and dish it in a stump depression with a hammer before I sewed the two halves together. Then I'd wax harden or glue harden the piece like you do. Although I do like the idea of using the roaster oven instead of a roaster pan on a hot plate. Your method for the wax is a heck of a lot safer than mine!
Ha, I love it, not a chance you made it wrong at first and used it as a teaching tool. Thank you for that, I do that quite regular myself, so it is nice to see someone else does it for educational purposes as well. :) This is a super cool video and tutorial my friend. Thank you for sharing and have a blessed week. Dale
Some of my favorite videos are when people are honest about the mistakes they make. It makes your own mistakes seem like less of a big deal and enables you to push through them knowing other people screw up as well.
Love work and consideering getting into leather arrmour making instead of buying it off the shelf, you have a new subscriber so I can figure it all out :)
JUST in case anyone cares (ever)... Oven racks are good, too... AND "wire cooling racks" for baked goods... (housewares/kitchen supplies) THOUGH... for certain weird, obscure pieces, I've been known to grab a chunk of "stucco mesh" to manufacture the shape I want and then let the work "settle" onto it... If you need more structure to the mesh form, you can also "Bond-O" both sides once it's formed... a layer on each side gives a fair amount of structure for "pressing" BUT you can always add layers to both sides to add to that... with the usual caveat rule of diminishing returns. ;o)
@@DarkHorseWorkshop Aside from being a little scored up, the brass goes a little green and that's it. 👌 Easily the most durable piece of equipment I've bought in my career.
just bought this pattern to make for use in my HEMA class. Going to put some foam under it to absorb impacts. Will follow up to let you know how they turn out!
Awesome tutorial. Just getting into leather armor pieces, so this is great timing. Glad to see a prolific number of videos coming from your channel lately!
Nice video . . . couple of suggestions . . . I use artificial waxed sinew so that I can melt the tied ends and they don't ever work free . . . I didn't see you doing anything to yours, maybe some superglue to set the knots . . . aslo, I like the peening rivets and washers as well, but I have a collection of different sized rivet sets that give a true rounded head on the peened end . . . nice to see someone who knows what a peening hammer is for, except the broad end is for upseting the cut end first before peening with the peening end . . . I enjoy that you share your techniques with everyone freely, something that in my early years of SCA was sadly lacking . . . keep up the great work!
I don't hand stitch anything. So good call on the thread ends. Just something I never thought of. As for the broad end I've seen people do it but it's just never something I did.
I was watching the vambraces video before this and was wonder if the SCA was considered sport fighting then i came to this episode and now im excited. Definitely subscribed and might binge a few videos
Saddle stitching - put one needle through, don't tighten. Put the other needle through, then pass it downwards through the loop you left. That ensures the slope's constant. The loop tightens on the next stitch,
I noticed the washers you use on your rivets are loos on the stud. the rivets I use actually requires a tool to hammer the washer on before you ping the end over.
I never found any dome head brass rivets that taper. I've certainly used copper peening rivets in the past with a taper, Tandy carries lots of them. I just have a certain aesthetic appeal I go for and that involves those round rivets
Greetings from Snowy Alberta. Nice Job on those elbow pads. The more of your videos I watch the more I appreciate your work. I especially like your short preambles. I despise other posters meandering intros that go on and on. Thank you for posting another terrific project. Keep up the good work.
I have looked around and I could not find where you addressed adjusting patterns for size. If I need to make a larger pattern, what is the technique to upsize? I am assuming the spacing between the punches will change, then you have to make sure they match up again?
Im trying to find great videos on hardening leather. Projects will shrink if put in hot water. Do your projects shrink when putting them in the wax? Also, i saw you put the complete peice into the wax, so you can top kote it or resolene and have acrylic paint and it doesnt mess it up?
Can you put up a good link to your rivet source? The nifty brass / bronze dome head guys? Thanks!! And the channel content rocks! If I can ever manage shop space again, I will be busy busy busy.
The handbook (my Kingdom's not sure about the Society) says that elbows and knees have to be "covered by a rigid material underlain by at least .25 inch (6 mm) of closed-cell foam or equivalent padding". I am entirely new to heavy combat, looking for patterns to begin making armor and fell in love with your work. But do your elbow guards as you have made them follow this rule? Is the 12mm of leather thick enough to be considered rigid material?
I'm new to your channel. Beautiful and heavy duty craft. What kind of thread is that? Must be stout, looks like you're putting some mojo stress tightening it.
Very cool :) I may have missed something, and I know beeswax seals up leather... but the point of dipping it in a "cauldron" of melted wax... its to seal it And stiffen it? Or just super seal it?
To stiffen for its protective quality. Think of leather as the rebar. The wax as the cement. They are each strong by themselves. But together they make for a super strong product that will take a blunt impact very Well!
Hello, can you tell me what liquid it is, where you put the leather that liquid is and is hot? 'How long? i don't understand english i use translator thanks nice job
It turns out finding a Roaster Oven in Sweden is harder then I thought, any other ideas to melt your wax. was thinking fire but then I realized how bad that could be. don't think a hotplate kan make it to 250F and if I put it in the oven I need to move the container and we don't want that do we :/
@@DarkHorseWorkshop sorry late reply. Then you think hot plate do you think gas? because I must be overlooking something obvious as I can't see the danger with an electric hotplate.
The danger is awkwardly balancing a giant pan full of wax across a hot plate and skilling it all over the place and yourself. I would highly recommend ordering a roaster and converting the power if you have to. I do not recommend the hotplate, it'll work... but I have no idea how I managed to get away with it for so long. Haha.
@@DarkHorseWorkshop oh no I hade even thought about the power needs converting. As it doesn't look like there will be fight practise or pensic this year ether I got time to think and see if anyone of my friends has had anything shipped from Canada lately.
For the sport combat I do it makes it rigid and water resistant. There are options, I choose this one because it's pretty simple and not very time consuming.
Hi, when you wax your thread it's '' stiffer '' and don't make a knot every time you stitch with a long length of thread. It also melt insides the holes and more or less seal these, and it's easy to hammering your stitch. Friction is increase and hold better when you tight your stitch. But of course you can stitch without waxing.. ! You can wax with beeswax. I use parrafin sometimes (candle wax), it does the job but don't tell that to a traditionnal leather crafter lol (Sorry if my english isn't perfect i'm french)
It depends on "how much" you want to spend really. When I make cakes for burnishing, I use a 50:50 mix of bees wax and paraffin wax. However, bees wax is expensive and harder to find where as paraffin is plentiful and cheap. You can use just straight up paraffin if you wish. As an extra tip, if you can tell, that turkey cooker he's using is OLD and not the best of shape. Wax of any kind sticks even to non-stick surfaces and plastics. Your best bet is to find a used one at a rummage sale or thrift store. I was using a double boiler when I first started and it took HOURS and multiple reheatings to eventually make it usable again for regular cooking.
HyBrithe Resurgam Thx! Yes, I would definitely buy one dedicated for just that. However, what is the general reason for dipping the whole piece in to wax? What type of leather work requires this process?
@Cinematic Mirror Waxing does 2 things really. Leather is still pourous even after tanning. That's why is still absorbs water when it gets wet. In the old days, they would use boiling oil to harden the leather by "filling and sealing" those pours in the leather. Kind of reinforcing by filling in the matrix of the empty spaces with more material like a cement. Secondly, it makes it wareproof and way easier to clean up with a damp sponge and soap. Not to mention you can get pretty sweaty in your armor and unprotected leather will soak up the sweat. Besides smelling like B.O., you can get mold and mildew that will ruin all of the hard work you put into making your armor.
Do you find the wax hardening to be better than other forms of hardening for SCA heavy? I've seen uses of titebond 3, straight hot water, and a mention of future floor wax before... Just curious as to the differences.
Ive never tried anything else. My issue is baking leather with water or a water and glue mixture feels like a lot of work and babysitting. I can't compare anything. I was tempted to try the titebond water combo though
@@DarkHorseWorkshop I guess I will give it a try with your elbow pattern then and see how it goes. I know I have an old tutorial on the glue method from Vitus on the archive stored somewhere.
It's a simple and consistent to get hardened leather for use in rattan combat. There are other options like baking, or water and glue mixes, but it's a bit more finicky.
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
What piece of armour do you want to see a video of next? Vambraces? Gorget?
Vambraces/bazubands would be top of the list for me
I'd love to see a leather and plate brigandine or a leather and riveted mail cuirass but both of those would be quite a bit of work. Somewhere down the line, perhaps.
would love to see your take on some shoulder armor. everything you make is amazing
Gorget all the way.
Definitely vambraces 😁
I'm eternally grateful for the tips on leatherwork, Dark Horse Workshop. And shout-out to the Barbarian Freehold Alliance in California, for making my adult life as entertaining and challenging as my childhood.
Aw man. I have never done anything like this, armour or leather work, but I feel like apprenticing for someone like you would be the most amazing experience.
Check out your local chapter of the society for creative Anacronism.
I am sure there are many wonderful artists there who would be thrilled at the chance of having an enthusiastic student!
I'm so glad your channel just popped up! Been trying to learn to make my own leather armour for a while now.
I appreciate that you include your mistakes and comment on them, helps me learn better
Great video as always. I vote for the vambraces
I used to make elbows similar to this back in the late 90s and early 2000's. I used to get my leather wet and dish it in a stump depression with a hammer before I sewed the two halves together. Then I'd wax harden or glue harden the piece like you do. Although I do like the idea of using the roaster oven instead of a roaster pan on a hot plate. Your method for the wax is a heck of a lot safer than mine!
Ya I did the hot plate with a pan full of wax awkwardly balanced for quite some time. Amazed I didn't absolutely destroy myself at all with it.
Ha, I love it, not a chance you made it wrong at first and used it as a teaching tool. Thank you for that, I do that quite regular myself, so it is nice to see someone else does it for educational purposes as well. :)
This is a super cool video and tutorial my friend. Thank you for sharing and have a blessed week.
Dale
Some of my favorite videos are when people are honest about the mistakes they make. It makes your own mistakes seem like less of a big deal and enables you to push through them knowing other people screw up as well.
🤔 2 года и до сих пор актуально)) 💯 👍
Don't do any leather work but oddly enough I find your videos very entertaining and soothing. Great work
Love work and consideering getting into leather arrmour making instead of buying it off the shelf, you have a new subscriber so I can figure it all out :)
It's a lot of fun. Glad to have you.
Best tip in this video is the refrigerator wire shelf. I gotta go find one now.
JUST in case anyone cares (ever)...
Oven racks are good, too...
AND "wire cooling racks" for baked goods... (housewares/kitchen supplies)
THOUGH... for certain weird, obscure pieces, I've been known to grab a chunk of "stucco mesh" to manufacture the shape I want and then let the work "settle" onto it...
If you need more structure to the mesh form, you can also "Bond-O" both sides once it's formed... a layer on each side gives a fair amount of structure for "pressing" BUT you can always add layers to both sides to add to that... with the usual caveat rule of diminishing returns. ;o)
I've been using a pair of these elbows for hema since 2013. Incredible quality. 👍
Damn... For Hema? They have to be thrashed.
@@DarkHorseWorkshop Aside from being a little scored up, the brass goes a little green and that's it. 👌 Easily the most durable piece of equipment I've bought in my career.
just bought this pattern to make for use in my HEMA class. Going to put some foam under it to absorb impacts. Will follow up to let you know how they turn out!
Great video. Looking forward to the rest of the armor series.
Great video and beautiful leatherwork! Thanks!
Достаточно посмотреть на пальцы ,и сразу станет видно,что это руки мастера! Молодец,мужик!
This is the first of your video's I have seen. Very impressive. I subscribed and will be enjoying many of your other video's. Thank you!
Awesome tutorial. Just getting into leather armor pieces, so this is great timing. Glad to see a prolific number of videos coming from your channel lately!
Geez, I am humbled by your skill, excellent.
Many thanks.
Nice video . . . couple of suggestions . . . I use artificial waxed sinew so that I can melt the tied ends and they don't ever work free . . . I didn't see you doing anything to yours, maybe some superglue to set the knots . . . aslo, I like the peening rivets and washers as well, but I have a collection of different sized rivet sets that give a true rounded head on the peened end . . . nice to see someone who knows what a peening hammer is for, except the broad end is for upseting the cut end first before peening with the peening end . . . I enjoy that you share your techniques with everyone freely, something that in my early years of SCA was sadly lacking . . . keep up the great work!
I don't hand stitch anything. So good call on the thread ends. Just something I never thought of. As for the broad end I've seen people do it but it's just never something I did.
Looks amazing bro!
This was quite informative. Thanks for sharing.
Magnus snaps his fingers.......a second elbow appears. Rob says, "Oh! Magic" lol. That was great :D
I was watching the vambraces video before this and was wonder if the SCA was considered sport fighting then i came to this episode and now im excited. Definitely subscribed and might binge a few videos
the background pattern still comes through even after the black dye. looking good sir, keep it up.
Saddle stitching - put one needle through, don't tighten. Put the other needle through, then pass it downwards through the loop you left. That ensures the slope's constant. The loop tightens on the next stitch,
I would like to see some cool spaulders, like something from world of warcraft.
I like the machine burnisher, I made one for myself using my lathe and a piece of maple.
You can burnish the edges with just water, it takes a little bit longer but then no issues with resists.
Great Job Richard!
I noticed the washers you use on your rivets are loos on the stud. the rivets I use actually requires a tool to hammer the washer on before you ping the end over.
I never found any dome head brass rivets that taper. I've certainly used copper peening rivets in the past with a taper, Tandy carries lots of them. I just have a certain aesthetic appeal I go for and that involves those round rivets
Greetings from Snowy Alberta. Nice Job on those elbow pads. The more of your videos I watch the more I appreciate your work. I especially like your short preambles. I despise other posters meandering intros that go on and on. Thank you for posting another terrific project. Keep up the good work.
I've tightened them up more lately. I hate e minutes in and the damn video hasn't started.
I love your work and art. That's cool they're SCA approved as well.
Thanks! I just started taking an armor course through black raven armoury. This helped a lot. I'm trying to get ahead a little.
That is absolutely gorgeous
Thank you.
I have looked around and I could not find where you addressed adjusting patterns for size. If I need to make a larger pattern, what is the technique to upsize? I am assuming the spacing between the punches will change, then you have to make sure they match up again?
GREAT Look! Love your work, just found your channel and am quite happy I did!
Welcome aboard.
Amazing,, detailed work. Thank you for sharing.
This is super cool!!
Love your work, mate ............ copied A FEW of your ideas already.
Im trying to find great videos on hardening leather. Projects will shrink if put in hot water. Do your projects shrink when putting them in the wax?
Also, i saw you put the complete peice into the wax, so you can top kote it or resolene and have acrylic paint and it doesnt mess it up?
IT'S BEATIFULL MAN.... THANKS
I love your work
Awesome! Thank you so much, can't wait to try this out!
prob the pandemic talking, but that thumbnail had me thinking it was a leather face mask. now i kinda want one.
Love your videos, trully great leather work!
Man, I wish I could break the laws of the universe. So cool. Did Odin gift you that trick?
Dude, you are amazing!
Why thank you.
That was really cool, love your work! 8D
Great piece I was wondering if you have any more information on the waxing process such as what wax use
Can't believe I didn't mention it but I use a high melt paraffin wax from a candle shop
How do you harden the leather? In oil? Como endureces el cuero, en aceite?
Venda sus cubre bocas yo quisiera uno de esos aqui en ciudad juarez chihuahua mexico en la frontera el paso texas
I would love to have both the vambraces and the gorget, but the vambraces take priority. Maybe even a way to attach these to them?
Where do i buy that ability to make 2 out of 1?!
Can't be purchased, maybe I'll share it eventually!
Would you happen to know of a good book with leather binding that is actually good quality? Great videos btw, very beautiful work.
Can you put up a good link to your rivet source? The nifty brass / bronze dome head guys? Thanks!! And the channel content rocks! If I can ever manage shop space again, I will be busy busy busy.
rivetsinstock.com these guys have them. I just get them local here.
Thank you.
Greetings from the kingdom of Drachenwald, can you teach me that snap your fingers move? would love to know it ;)
The handbook (my Kingdom's not sure about the Society) says that elbows and knees have to be "covered by a rigid material underlain by at least .25 inch (6 mm) of closed-cell foam or equivalent
padding". I am entirely new to heavy combat, looking for patterns to begin making armor and fell in love with your work. But do your elbow guards as you have made them follow this rule? Is the 12mm of leather thick enough to be considered rigid material?
As long as you use the right thickness everything is legal, yes. These are anywhere from 12 to 18 ounches of leather which is plenty.
EXCELENT....WONDERFULL ALLSOME ....VERY GOOD .....
Wow wahnsinnig schön !! ❤️👌🏻
I've bought the pattern and trying my hand at this for my SCA kit. Is that a #1 or #2 hole punch?
EXCELENTE!!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼. EXCELENTE!!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Awsome
классно сделал только забыл шланг зависти и кислородный баллон чтоб не задохнутся
I'm new to your channel. Beautiful and heavy duty craft. What kind of thread is that? Must be stout, looks like you're putting some mojo stress tightening it.
waxed thread
When you not the ends of your stitches, do you have to use a particular knot or us it just a case of whatever works?
I just wing it with random knots. I'm sure there are better options.
When I knot, I almost always use square knots with a surgeon's knot to start with. I haven't had a knot come undone yet in years of work.
Would there be any benefit to wax treating a leather knife sheath? Not a standard one, but one that is more ornate. Great video 👍
Not really. Water form then light oils.
Wau sieht echt super aus, grüße aus Deutschland.
Very cool :) I may have missed something, and I know beeswax seals up leather... but the point of dipping it in a "cauldron" of melted wax... its to seal it And stiffen it? Or just super seal it?
To stiffen for its protective quality.
Think of leather as the rebar. The wax as the cement.
They are each strong by themselves. But together they make for a super strong product that will take a blunt impact very Well!
Thank you :) I'll have to keep that in mind for leather sheaths
What is the wax for ànd why does it not look like wax?
Это более декоративный элемент, чем средство защиты
Это точно
I wish it's for sale
Id like to purchase a pattern for these
It's on my Etsy.
What kind of leather do you use and how thick?
Что в итоге было изготовленно?
Элемент доспеха?
Awesome. Can that wax method be used on knife sheaths ?
wax is a poor choice for leather hardening, look up "the x1 method", or just substitute the wax with stearic acid
Hello, can you tell me what liquid it is, where you put the leather that liquid is and is hot? 'How long? i don't understand english i use translator thanks nice job
paraffin wax
@@DarkHorseWorkshop
thanks friend
Очень круто!!)
It turns out finding a Roaster Oven in Sweden is harder then I thought, any other ideas to melt your wax. was thinking fire but then I realized how bad that could be. don't think a hotplate kan make it to 250F and if I put it in the oven I need to move the container and we don't want that do we :/
I got the longest time used a double hotplate with a pan. This was an absolutely horrificly dangerous idea and I'm amazed I never burnt my house down.
@@DarkHorseWorkshop sorry late reply. Then you think hot plate do you think gas? because I must be overlooking something obvious as I can't see the danger with an electric hotplate.
The danger is awkwardly balancing a giant pan full of wax across a hot plate and skilling it all over the place and yourself. I would highly recommend ordering a roaster and converting the power if you have to.
I do not recommend the hotplate, it'll work... but I have no idea how I managed to get away with it for so long. Haha.
@@DarkHorseWorkshop oh no I hade even thought about the power needs converting. As it doesn't look like there will be fight practise or pensic this year ether I got time to think and see if anyone of my friends has had anything shipped from Canada lately.
No air intake tampoc air filter
Not really sure what you mean. We always run a filter.
What kind of wax do you have in your turkey roaster to coat the piece?
High melt point paraffin
How thick is this leather and what do you recommend for SCA equipment?
14+ on the base elbow part. 8 - 10oz on the smaller upper parts
Can you put on Etsy how you do that snap trick, thanks
Not quite yet, I guess I could post it as like an exclusive $300 price tag... hmmmmm....
Great work ! What's the purpose of the hot waxing btw ?
For the sport combat I do it makes it rigid and water resistant. There are options, I choose this one because it's pretty simple and not very time consuming.
Not sure if you ever mentioned it before, but what strap cutter do you use? I cant find it listed on amazon store page or tool list I've seen
Oops! I'll fix it..just one from Tandy.
Fixed
is it for sale?
Can you say more about the waxing? Like what kind of wax, why you’re doing it this way, is there a name for this?
Hi, when you wax your thread it's '' stiffer '' and don't make a knot every time you stitch with a long length of thread. It also melt insides the holes and more or less seal these, and it's easy to hammering your stitch. Friction is increase and hold better when you tight your stitch. But of course you can stitch without waxing.. ! You can wax with beeswax. I use parrafin sometimes (candle wax), it does the job but don't tell that to a traditionnal leather crafter lol
(Sorry if my english isn't perfect i'm french)
lenny lewis Merci! I was more referring to his full piece dunk into the cooker filled with wax
It depends on "how much" you want to spend really. When I make cakes for burnishing, I use a 50:50 mix of bees wax and paraffin wax. However, bees wax is expensive and harder to find where as paraffin is plentiful and cheap. You can use just straight up paraffin if you wish. As an extra tip, if you can tell, that turkey cooker he's using is OLD and not the best of shape. Wax of any kind sticks even to non-stick surfaces and plastics. Your best bet is to find a used one at a rummage sale or thrift store. I was using a double boiler when I first started and it took HOURS and multiple reheatings to eventually make it usable again for regular cooking.
HyBrithe Resurgam Thx! Yes, I would definitely buy one dedicated for just that. However, what is the general reason for dipping the whole piece in to wax? What type of leather work requires this process?
@Cinematic Mirror Waxing does 2 things really. Leather is still pourous even after tanning. That's why is still absorbs water when it gets wet. In the old days, they would use boiling oil to harden the leather by "filling and sealing" those pours in the leather. Kind of reinforcing by filling in the matrix of the empty spaces with more material like a cement. Secondly, it makes it wareproof and way easier to clean up with a damp sponge and soap. Not to mention you can get pretty sweaty in your armor and unprotected leather will soak up the sweat. Besides smelling like B.O., you can get mold and mildew that will ruin all of the hard work you put into making your armor.
Does the wax step make this “boiled leather” armor?
Na, I'd look up cuir bouilli
Do you find the wax hardening to be better than other forms of hardening for SCA heavy? I've seen uses of titebond 3, straight hot water, and a mention of future floor wax before... Just curious as to the differences.
Ive never tried anything else. My issue is baking leather with water or a water and glue mixture feels like a lot of work and babysitting. I can't compare anything. I was tempted to try the titebond water combo though
@@DarkHorseWorkshop I guess I will give it a try with your elbow pattern then and see how it goes. I know I have an old tutorial on the glue method from Vitus on the archive stored somewhere.
Stearic acid is probably the best hardening option outside of epoxy. You can also try the "x1 method" but that one is indeed quite tedious
los patrones de confección::
@t.
@t.
@t.
@t.
What brand of leather are you using for these projects?
I don't even know. I just look at some hides and pick what I like.
10.00 wht is the water? or is that melted wax?
Lol wax. Amazed I missed that. So dumb. High melt paraffin.
what is the point of doing the wax?
it hardens the leather, but stearic acid, or the x1 method are superior
Hi! What’s vurnishing/burnishing do? Is it like smoothing the edges?
Yup, burnishing is smoothing edges, slicking them so they're not rough.
Dark Horse Workshop thank you! I’ve been binge watching your work and it’s awesome!
@@madisonmorris7394 Awesome. :)
Lamellar? No one seems to have the patience to cut out hundreds of squares or rectangles.
Looks like it could be modified to make a half mask
Hilariously I've done that. Could use some slight modification. Just curve one side less.
What is the point of the full wax dip?
It's a simple and consistent to get hardened leather for use in rattan combat. There are other options like baking, or water and glue mixes, but it's a bit more finicky.
@@DarkHorseWorkshopNice, thanks for the info.
Your etsy store is down :(
Fake news
Can u do a giveaway for some of ur art 😍
And let me win something plz
U doing a really epic job
I wish u a good luck 🍀