BMW K1200 Clutch basket replacement - VLOG 007
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ธ.ค. 2017
- BMW K1200 Clutch basket replacement.
In this one I show the process of changing a complete clutch including the basket.
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Great video mate, I am sure it will help some one out down the line.
I wouldnt sweat it about the um, its your channel and you have taken the time to help people out by showing stuff and giving pointers out.
I am an ex motorcycle mechanic my self of 25years and your videos are great stuff, unlike some other peoples out there that could be a bit iffy,
Workshop and your channel are 2 of the best out there. Keep the videos going
Brilliant
Brilliant
“Nuffys Builds” appreciates you taking the time to share mate.
Great video 🏍🇦🇺👍🏻
Me as "a untypical German", like most the part "...thats a 190 Newtonmeters, trust me..." gimme more of that....love it !!! Great video thanks, helped me a lot !!
Specs say 140 Nm
Get the BMW special tool for the anti-lash gear, it takes care of both gears at once and the basket will pop right in. Also impact guns shock gears and can cause brinneling. Use the tool to hole the clutch basket and avoid damage to the gears. Replace the aluminium bolts for the cover with SS bolts and they can be reused again and again, without any real weight increase. I also soak even second-hand clutches for insurance, I like the clutch to be wet going in.
The single use bolts are there to shear and break preferentially if you have a fall and the clutch cover is impacted. Otherwise the cover can break the cases in a drop or crash.
Thank you for giving me the confidence to attempt this myself. Fantastic video.
Hi again James,
Many thanks for your kind response and helpful answers.
Your tip in the video in respect of torque wrench vs impact driver (impact driver wins), I invested in the impact driver and boom, Job done and no skinned knuckles or ‘special’ bmw tools to buy!
Thanks very much once again, you saved me time, money and my temper. Top man. 👍😉
OUTSTANDING Video. I'm doing this procedure tonight... Wish me luck!!
Enjoyed that,ive never changed a clutch so found it very helpful,keep er lit mate
Top notch vid James.
Brilliant bit of insight into a scary job that is really straight forward
Very well explained video. And helpful.
Great vid mate. Totally With you on the torque wrench/ ft method, you just know when it's acceptable to do. Also thanks for the heads up on the gloves you use,ordered a load spot on cheers
There is now a mod on the clutch basket to drill more oil holes to allow better oils flow to stop the heavy clunk when selecting 1st gear I had mine done.
Did it work ?
Risk of loss of oil pressure
Actually, I did not find it difficult to torque the clutch shaft nut going back together. With the clutch pack installed and compressed by the diaphragm spring, put the transmission in high gear and step on the rear brake while pulling on the torque wrench. One-forty foot pounds, no problem.
Hello. I just did this same job and followed this video to a T. Buttoned her up tonight and the clutch won't engage at all. Like it's hitting a brick wall. Have you ever encountered this?
Brave man tipping a 600lb bike off of it's sidestand from the offside while bent over with the bike on the lift. Good video. I'm considering a K1200s.
Thank you for making these videos for us!
Cheers,
Awesome. Thx!
BMW maintenance disc says the engine must be at top dead center. Didn’t hear you mention this…so don’t worry about it? I have a 2011 k1300s. Again..thx for the video.
My old Suzuki T500 used to have a rattly clutch. The rattling disappeared when I puilled in the clucth lever. What made it rattle was the rivets holding the clutch basket to the primary gear became loose with time/use. The cure was a new basket and gear or I supose the rivets could have been replaced.
By the way what happened with the Yamaha 1200 Super Tenere? My bet is the crank has snapped. I do enjoy your videos, it's good to watch and learn from an experienced pro. I have not seen your like before.
Great video. HOW sure like to do things their own way.
used to get the same problem with honda blackbirds, luckily most were done under warranty.
I’m going to be attempting this in a couple of weeks. Wish me luck haha
Thank you
Great video James 👍 You have tons of knowledge about bikes, and i dont mind the waffling at all😂 I am starting work on an old zxr 750J2 that has been stored since 2002. Any heads up?
Hello @SuperbikeSurgeryTV, I wanted to ask if anyone has had this problem before.
Bike is a 2005 K1200R has 55 032 kilometers on it, apart from the fuel sensor everything is perfect. I had recently done an oil change as part of the maintenance routine a week ago and had already do e 300 some kilometers since the oil change.
Over the weekend however I noticed something has changed upon take off the bike would pull normally in first gear at 1.5k to 2k rpm and once in second gear I'd hear the engine rev over 3k rpm and sometimes to 4k rpm before properly catching on, and under hard acceleration it would revs very high then comeback down to 3k rpm before pulling normally.
It's slipping on the clutch; all other gears will do the same too. It is not very noticeable after warming the bike up and riding around. But once it's nominal temp it starts to slip.
I've read around that it could be the slave cylinder's oil that got on the clutch to make it slip due to broken O rings or failed O rings so I checked the slave cylinder and the O rings, all are fine no leaks no signs of wear.
Some said it is the oil and I checked my oil it is a Yacco MVX 1000 10W50 and no my previous which was a Liqui Moly 20w50. Could this be the cause? I'm buying Liqui Moly 20W50 oil tomorrow and purge the Yacco out of the engine tomorrow and might as well buy a new oil filter to go with it too.
The clutch is good it's been replaced with a new one just last year and it all worked perfectly apart from last weekend.
I developed clutch issues in my K1300R after the first 1000km service. Never could resolve it. BMW denied any problems, said the rattle was supposed to be that way. Got rid of it asap. Shame because it was a cracking good bike otherwise.
You can “um” as much as you like, if it wasn’t for your tip on spinning the pegged washer by moving the little chain I’d still be in the workshop trying to get the bas***d thing to mesh !
Hi James, thanks for the illuminating video.
A couple of questions I hope you can answer for me please:
I'm about to change the clutch friction plates on my 2006 K1200R. The plates are supplied by Barnet Performance Products from the US of A, in their blurb they insist that the plates are soaked in only synthetic motorcycle oil, can I get away with using semi synthetic oil to do the job? What issues will result if I do?
Secondly, an advising 'friend' tells me that I should also soak the new clutch cover gasket in oil to form a fluid tight seal, again, is this right as you make no mention of it in your video.
Many thanks,
Karl.
hello james, i have 2006 k1200GT same problem, it actually kept slipping until it broke. now it does not move, it also makes a loud noise when running. i wonder if it caused a serious damage to the transmission. Do you also need to lock the crank shaft replace the clutch basket?
I have a question I believe you skipped on your great video.
How do you align the multiplate clutch basket?
I believe it is related on how do you bolt the pressure plate/spring.
I’ve already tried few times but keep having that feeling of canguru launch.
Any thoughts?
Great vid . Would now be able to do this myself. I have an 07 with this rattle and also in need of a timing chain tensioner. Is that an easy swap out? Many Thanks Nigel
Also I am in Australia, can you recommend good parts suppliers either local to you or world wide chain of suppliers?
Great video as always. Mate could you tell me the OD of that 32mm socket for the basket nut. I'll need to machine a impact socket down and need the size. Thanks, Paul.
Well I found the answer to that the OD for the socket is 40 mm for anybody that wants to know.um just kidding around love your videos. My thing is saying Ah
Thanks
Don't worry about the 'uming' James. We all have little habits that we live with............and its not as bad as picking your nose and eating the findings, or lifting a cheek up to fart when you've got friends over for a meal (that reminds me, its the wife's birthday tomorrow, god bless her)
I never really noticed it till he pointed it out, Now i listen hard for every umm'n'arrrr :)
Dirty boy! To your room! And no supper for you...apart from the contents of your nasal cavities.
Great video,thanks. I did my mates Yamaha with an impact, came out fine. Like you said "experience" you just need to know when to stop. I'm thinking of getting a k1200... they seem pretty straight forward to work on. Subscribed paulphillipsfix.
Paul. I have one and they are a bit of a pain. Clutch is the worst I’ve ever experienced ! They sit high above the sump and have to be kept wet by a supply through the drive shaft which doesn’t supply enough. I’ve fitted an Oberon slave cylinder and 5/40 oil which improves it no end but still judders.
Changing the headlamp bulb is fairing off or a highly trained pet octopus (virtually impossible in situ with normal sized fingers),fuel gauge left me stranded 3 time in first month of ownership and the AA man asked straight away if the gauge had fooled me. Not impressed and will probably go for a GSXS1000f next.
@@robplazzman6049I agree. I plan on putting in the K1300 Throughout pin, twice as much oil and the bearing with that, as well as drilling the drum where the first couple of frictions get oil; starved. BMW definitely did a lousy job on the clutches in these bikes. I have already replaced the cam chain tensioner and I also plan on putting in a cam chain jump guard. On the bright side I love the bike and it is really powerful and stable at speed.
@@PaulPhillipsFix please explain throughput pin role? I have a 2008 K1200S and transmission is shot, common issue. You would think BMW Motorrad would fix this by the end of the first generation. Anyways, I am planning on replacing it with K1300S transmission and am wondering what are the intricate details needed to make this happen. Supposedly, it's a pretty straightforward swap except:
"I bought a used trans from a K13GT. It has the larger holes drilled in the shaft to bathe the clutch in oil (the 12S clutches were notoriously under-oiled), so when looking for salvage, look for a K13 trans, NOT an old K12 trans, because you'll just be buying the same problem set (an underoiled "wet" clutch which imitates a dry one, and transmission dogs which are NOT undercut, resulting in common failures of 2d, and sometimes 3rd, gear). The K13 iteration fixed both those issues.
However, when you buy a salvage (or new, but why would you buy new for a bike this old?) trans, it will come without the little spinning collar which sits over the shaft and also has two holes drilled into it and throws out oil to wet the clutch. Unless you also buy that part from a K13 (and if you do, it WILL fit a K12), you will need to drill out (and emery to baby's butt smooth) the two, smaller holes on your K12 clutch shaft collar to the same diameter as the holes in the K13 transmission shaft. I found this out before doing the work from a BMW mechanic of 40 years, and the advice was spot-on."
Hi.. just watched video, brilliant tips.... do you need to lock out the camshaft if only replacing the plates and not removing the basket ?
Only if you Don't have an impact gun to undo the clutch hub nut.
Not a 'How to'........? That's how I'm gonna do it . Great video, thanks !
I changed the basket to a bmw k1200r. It changes gears as it should. But when it's in gear and I press the clutch, it won't release it. I haven't put oil and started the engine yet. Is that the reason?
I just purchased an 07’ k1200gt and I now notice the odd rattle at idle which is quite loud at times. I find it sad that BMW figures this is normal. There is nothing more bothersome than pulling up along another rider with your bike rattling. I have owned three other bikes of Japanese design with maintenance not being such a massive issue as BMW. How often does this need to be done ?
Please help! After install, my slave cylinder will NOT sit flush. The bolt that applies the force seems to protrude too much even though as far as I can tell it’s installed correctly!
Did you soak the plates in oil
Top Banana!
Do you have one of these videos for the gearbox replacement?
No
My slave cylinder has a (breather) nipple on the top which has broken off. As the slave cylinder on your bike doesn't have a nipple, - how do you bleed it when you change the clutch fluid?
Hello im from Brasil ,ao many kilometers happens this?
Did you go through all this without changing out that inner needle bearing? I wonder how many K1200/1300GT bikes have been scrapped for parts because the clutch roller bearing started vibrating after the clutch work?
Hi, great video and it has been a massive help to me. The 6 bolts that go into the washer that holds the thrust plate, are these to a specific torque, or is it just until they are tight? I've replaced my plates and the bike won't select neutral unless it's not running. Can the thrust plate be too tight? Does the bike need a run out to let everything bed in properly? Or could the new clutch plates be too thick? Or have I royally f**ked something up? Any help would be appreciated, thanks :-)
Sorta same issue here. My clutch won't engage at all. Like it's hitting a brick wall half way thru the pull. Did you find out anything?
I dismounted clutch basket yesterday with non position blocked. I belive you did it the same way?
@Superbike Surgery Ltd
Is it okay that the brake cleaner is going down the sink into the waste water?
It's a parts washing machine not a sink....
Really appreciate the video, but next time please move the dangling bits out of the way. It the slave clutch obscured the view of the bikes oil chain. Thx. This is a much needed video to demystify the prices BMW dealers charge to do this work.
What's the damage for labour changing the clutch basket on a K1200?
Nobody told you? BMW ... "Bring ... My ... Wallet"
Hello, how many Miles hás this bike?
Mr.Uhm,....lol- don't sweat it!! bothers you more than us. I NEED YOUR ADVISE,..2006 k1200s - 2/3rd gear clutch fork....possibly bent?? 9according to forums and guys that dealt with this issue when these bikes were newer....Mine will slip outta 2ndand outta 3 rd third when i aggressively throttle up in those gears and all others are fine. (it sounds horrible when it jumps out,...like destroying the gears;...It too has that rattle you speak of. My question to start with is,..the bike has 50,000 miles on it now I put close to 20k miles just in 10 months...What parts do i need to replace,...entire clutch basket and plates? should i also get the new thrust pin for oil flow through shaft>? And what is your opinion in adding another steel plate in the front of all of them.? ANY AND ALL ADVISE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. From Northern California, USA
Cleanliness is next to godliness. I like that pressurised bottle with the brake cleaner, I might have to invest in one of those and fill it with kerosene for cleaning chains, seems like a good solution. I used to use aerosol chain cleaner but it seems to have gotten expensive, and I tend to brush the kerosene on/in, wipe it off and give it a blow with compressed air but doesn't seem to do as good a job and I end up swimming in kerosene-soaked blue towel! The chain cleaner used to rinse the crap off nicely and evaporate like brake cleaner. Be interesting to know what you use as a pro!
Oh and by the way, how many ugga-duggas is 190Nm? - haha! Honestly I don't think I could physically apply 190Nm of torque, even swinging off a 6ft bar! F.T indeed.
I learned a chain cleaning tip from YT channel 'Mirius Shed' that works a treat - use engine oil! Bloody brilliant. And personally I use 3 in 1 as chain lube, because the specialist chain lubes I've used are shite and expensive. Cheers!
Honestly I have massive respect for your mechanical knowledge and expertise, and I also find you funny to boot, so "um" away dear boy, anybody picky enough to care about such a minor thing can feck off and watch summat else!
Uhm.. good video :-)
Just the tip mind and only for a second
That new basket still got springs rattle tho, as i can see when you install it. Doesn't that bother you?
The springs are supposed to be loose, a brand new one would be the same. That's not what causes the noise.
What causes the noise?
😲😲😲😲
James that's called a scissor gear.
that RTV on the oil pan looks alarming
@justincarney1250
0 seconds ago
Hello I have watched several videos on the clutch replacementand at a lose on how the six allan key bolts that hold the pressue spring in place can be torqued , if they are set fully home and torqued to 8nm the this has basically engaged the clutch it has compressed the spring down the same way the slave cylinder does , the spring must be able to move in and out as the slave cylinder pushes against it , tightening these bolts all the way home does not allow it to operate , there must be either an physical measurement between the basket and the spring plate or some other way to determine corect spring pressure . As I can not get the bolts to 8 nm against the spring pressure alone , Any insights would be helpful , many thnks
Tie slave cylinder out of the as you dont want oil to contaminate fluid ?
Fascinating Video but ahrr I would have tied that Slave cylinder out of the way,annoyingly its always in view.
Hello... What should I check before buying this engine? Is there a chronic problem? ( bmw k1200/1300 r -2005.2007)
You are Um, and Um is you: accept yourself, and um, know peace my friend.
Stretch bolts on a clutch cover. Is that common on a superbike ?
Seems strange to me too
No it's not but that's BMW for ya lol
German engineering - makes sense.
new r1s aslo have to be changed everytime , mainly due to the special coating on them , but its expensive and they are titanium i think.
Makes you wonder why titanium is needed for a cover bolt,. Surely stainless would do if it’s about preserving their look and longevity. Stretch bolts seems like over engineering. I’m not an engineer but if other manufacturers get by with standard bolts seems very odd.
As an ummer myself it really doesn't bother me lol
Really wished you believed in using torque specs
Torque wrenches are for people without decades of experience! They obviously have their place, but if you got one out every time you had to tighten something up, you'd never get the job done. Take a look inside any well run professional workshop or watch a race mechanic. You'll notice the torque wrench only comes out in very specific circumstances.
If that friction and steel is stuck to the hub the hub is shot, is no clip holding it on these bikes, it should slide just like all the other plates.
Incorrect, go and look at a parts diagram!
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV year and production month? I have a 2006 clutchbasket, inne hub made in 2007, bike is a k1300s 2009. Factory fitted parts, there is no lock on the friction, it has the bellvillewasher and steelplate tho.