Excellent video. Thanks. Great info. The zip lock bag trick for removing the filter is the best tip of all! It's pretty obvious once you say it out loud like that, but I never thought of it. I watched two other 718 oil change videos, one was by a professional at a shop, and in both oil didn't come out in a nice neat stream as it did in your video. when the drain plug was removed. It pretty much sprayed all over. The shop guy even cautioned viewers to get an extra wide collection adapter to minimize what slopped on the floor. I though to myself while watching that the problem could be solved by simply removing the filler cap to vent the system. Your video confirms that will fix the problem. I wonder who the few thumbs down haters are. What's not to like about this video?
Great guide. My dealership charges $600 for oil change on 718 spyder. DIY is less than $100 and about 1 hr labor. That special tool to remove drain plug is in the tool kit. 90 degree plastic tool inside the right side frunk tool box.
Fyi I did the oil change on my 718 Spyder (same underbody as gt4) with quickjack. Instead of what you did, I first unbolted the outboard nut of the 3rd underbody tray when car was on ground. Then, put car up on quickjack (with 1 rubber block as that's the only way it works), put car back down but on a couple boards under each wheel to raise car, then use 2 rubber quickjack blocks stacked to re-raise car. With the low and high blocks stacked, the 3rd underbody panel has enough clearance between quickjack and car to slide out! No jacks needed :)
Thanks for the tip! I was thinking about doing something similar and setting the car on those stacks you can get to level RVs. Glad that worked out for you!
Great video. Happy to see I will be able to reuse the icarsoft tool from my 991.2 GTS on the 718! Only one gripe. Don’t use an impact! Use a drill on slow speed, adjusting the clutch so you do not strip any of the fasteners.
Thanks for the video. Just completed my post break in oil change and this video made my life easier for sure! FYI, I put in 7.5 liters/quarts and I was at the min oil level. It took the full 8 liters/quarts to bring it up to max.
This is a fantastic video! I did an oil change after 1600 miles on my new 718 Spyder after reviewing other TH-cam videos. Wish this video had been available then, as I struggled a bit but eventually gotter' done. Will watch this one again just before my next oil change.
Great service to the community. I used to do my own changes on my 986 and 987. This 718 GT4 / Spyder sure is making a strong case for electric cars. Can they make it any more annoying?! I see they’ve tucked the filter way up high just for fun.
10:11 - If using LIFT BARS.... The answer is yes, all nuts / screws were removable (had to use an open end on the plastic nut. The pan was removable with a slight "bow". Personally, going forward removing those plastic nuts by the jack point will be the first task. 19:46 - did POR V2.0 reset the oil service interval? Followed the same procedure as described in the video. For my 2023, the answer is yes. Checking the right hand dash display, "Vehicle - Info - Service Interval - Service Interval 2" the indicator re-set to the new 10,000 mile point. Great video. Thanks so much for putting in the time and effort to make it. 😀
Great how to. Watched the whole thing even though I don't own a 718. I'd like to get one, though, if the car market ever gets back to some sort of normalcy.
Great video! When replacing the oil filter, I had trouble tightening the plastic housing. Eventually got it but it was VERY snug. Should I be able to hand tighten the filter housing? Wasnt able to without my wrench.
Terrific video, especially your detailed description and graphics of all those fasteners. I'm wondering if the floor jack could be avoided by getting the car up on taller QuickJack blocks to create more clearance between its trays and the fasteners. i.e. by raising the car on the QuickJack, temporarily lowering the tires onto four 4-6" blocks, lowering the QuickJack, inserting the higher lift blocks and raising the car back up.
Awesome video! And just in time for my 2k mile oil change on my GT4. I was going back and forth on doing myself or taking to my Indy. I really needed to see the under body panel removals so thank you so much for that. Super helpful and I am going to give it a shot. I have quickjacks as well so I will be following this DIY step by step. Is there no way to loosen those bolts / panel where the quickjacks are in the way before you get started? Trying to save the hassle of the up and down and jack swapping if possible. Just curious…
Great video! I am wondering if a thicker rubber block from QuickJack would give enough clearance to remove the underbody panel when the car is on the QuickJack? I did my first oil change at a DYI service garage and I got a QuickJack now and want to know ahead of the second oil change.
The problem is the thicker block won’t fit under the car while it’s on the ground. There’s just not enough clearance. However I did try method others suggested and that was lower the car onto some wood blocks so it had more ground clearance. Swap out taller Rubber blocks and then lift it. This would give enough clearance but the blocks were just too big and covered some of the area that I need to access. Maybe if I had narrower cylinder blocks?
IMPORTANT EDITS! OIL REQUIREMENTS HAVE CHANGED: The oil in this video is technically no longer C40 spec. The new approved oil for GT4/Spyder/4.0 GTS with 8k RPM motors is 0w-40 C40 which for now is only found in Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 X4 C40 oil. www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-x4-0w-40 1. I forgot that I could check the service interval on my right side multi-function screen (on the cluster). It now shows my next service is due at 17,000 miles. I BELIEVE it used to say 10,000 miles so I think the iCarsoft tool worked! 2. A tip from another Porsche enthusiast mentioned that the GT3 does in fact have a different size filter tool. 3. Just heard that a San Francisco Bay Area owner and TH-camr @Xxyion86 that average quotes for our area are $850 for oil change! With this tutorial you will save $650! 4. I have added a link in the video and description for an update to removing the 3rd panel while using Quickjacks. See link in description!
Thanks so much for the excellent video. You'd mentioned the iCarSoft POR v3 but the link in the description goes to iCarSoft CR Pro. Can you confirm which is the one you used? I'm very confused about all the different OBD scanners...
So just to confirm, there were no or issues when you took it to the dealer regarding your oil reset. Meaning, it did worked appropriately when you reset the light yourself ?
Hey man, thanks for the videos. I’ve got a 22 gt4, and track it. 3500 miles and did over axel pipes and oil change this weekend. Dealer in Bellingham WA wants 350 for an oil change, f that!😅…sound is much better with the over axel pipes. Do you have a FB page I can follow?
Wow 9 qts? Hmm. Make sure to recheck - I’ve seen it go up. Problem is I don’t think there’s indication of overfill. I have a JET FUEL ONLY FB page but it’s not too active. I’m most active on IG.
I added and checked multiple times till it got to the full mark, adding a little at a time. Been checking all weekend and it’s staying at the full mark. Who knows without a dipstick 🤣
Great visuals on the panels! I'm contemplating diy but only have jack/jackstands, if I put the car on jack stands, would it be hard to remove the panels? Thanks!
Shouldn’t be a problem. The hard part with the Porsche is lifting with a jack and placing a stand. On the 981 without the rear panel, people sometimes place a stand on other crossmembers but with the 718 it’s not possible. You really need jack point stands or lift bars. But the jackpoint stand would get in the way too. Just have to turn it into a multi step process.
The video is done very well, but you realize the Boxster GTS 4.0 does not have the same underbody panels as the GT4 (apparently, as I've never seen under the GT4 until now). My GTS 4.0 has 1,800 miles on it and decided to do the break-in oil change. Got the car up on my Quick Jacks and lo and behold, no diffuser or transmission pan. There's some sort of metal pan covering the trans, but doesn't look anything like the one in your video. I'll remove the torx screws around the engine pan and see how it comes out. Frustrating in trying to find a good write-up on changing the GTS 4.0 oil, as it seems all the 2021 Boxster GTS 4.0's out there are different from mine. Well, at least once the panels are off that the procedure looks pretty straightforward...
For GTS 4.0 owners, you only need to remove that one big panel with 4 plastic 10mm nuts, 4 10mm bolts, and 6 T25 screws. On another note, the tail end of that big panel should have been tucked under the bracing, looks like you didnt do it in the video. No big deal.
@@JetFuelOnly not quite. I’m referring to the clips on the panel that receive two T25 screws. Those clips should be positioned above the bracing, not below. And bracing has holes that you’d route the T25 screws through.
Great video, all the details needed, thank you! That drain plug does not give me a lot of confidence. Since it doesn’t actually tighten down, but just turns until it hits its stop, it’s not actually “tight” in there. Seems like it could easily leak, are these known for leaking?
I think you could engine flush on every 10k oil change and have the piece of mind instead of worrying and sending oil every now and then for analysis. Plus adding the fuel system cleaner + injectors cleaner will keep everything happy
Wow! That sounds like the interval on old Boxter and Caymans! I can’t imagine going past 10k and I think that’s what the US Manual says. But fresh break in I don’t think it hurts to flush it out.
@@JetFuelOnly Yeah no harm, just peace of mind.. I don't know of any oem's here that specify as low oil intervals as the US markets still seem to. I daily drive a new Ford Puma and that is 18,000 miles for it's first oil change. Modern engines are made/assembled so clean and the low wear rates of the latest oils means the break-in is very controlled and gradual. Not quite the same as rebuilding a old engine in your garage!
@@munnsey amazing! So many people still change at 3-5k miles around here! Half because they are told to by shops the other half because they think it’s better. Pretty much all cars and motorcycles I’ve had say at least 7k miles. Thanks for sharing!
Best I can tell yes, but I haven’t had the dealer check. The 992 might be a different situation. Try to find an owner nearby with an icarsoft and give it a try
That underbody panel removal process is the result of poor German engineering. Why make it more complicated than necessary…they just want you to bring it to the dealer and pay through the nose…
WOW, and I thought my 991.1 was bad. I realize that my car is a dream to change the oil, after seeing this!
Excellent video. Thanks. Great info. The zip lock bag trick for removing the filter is the best tip of all! It's pretty obvious once you say it out loud like that, but I never thought of it.
I watched two other 718 oil change videos, one was by a professional at a shop, and in both oil didn't come out in a nice neat stream as it did in your video. when the drain plug was removed. It pretty much sprayed all over. The shop guy even cautioned viewers to get an extra wide collection adapter to minimize what slopped on the floor.
I though to myself while watching that the problem could be solved by simply removing the filler cap to vent the system. Your video confirms that will fix the problem.
I wonder who the few thumbs down haters are. What's not to like about this video?
Haha. Thanks man. There’s always haters. It’s a weird world on TH-cam. Thanks for watching!!
Great guide. My dealership charges $600 for oil change on 718 spyder. DIY is less than $100 and about 1 hr labor.
That special tool to remove drain plug is in the tool kit. 90 degree plastic tool inside the right side frunk tool box.
Fyi I did the oil change on my 718 Spyder (same underbody as gt4) with quickjack. Instead of what you did, I first unbolted the outboard nut of the 3rd underbody tray when car was on ground. Then, put car up on quickjack (with 1 rubber block as that's the only way it works), put car back down but on a couple boards under each wheel to raise car, then use 2 rubber quickjack blocks stacked to re-raise car. With the low and high blocks stacked, the 3rd underbody panel has enough clearance between quickjack and car to slide out! No jacks needed :)
Thanks for the tip! I was thinking about doing something similar and setting the car on those stacks you can get to level RVs. Glad that worked out for you!
I tried something similar to your tip and updated with a YT Short video, thanks!
I did the same. Works great!
Hey man, this was a great video, the special tools listed in the description was also a super nice touch. I am sure many have appreciated this
This is a very useful video. Thanks to you, I am going to try changing my oil next week based on this - wish me luck!
Great video. Happy to see I will be able to reuse the icarsoft tool from my 991.2 GTS on the 718! Only one gripe. Don’t use an impact! Use a drill on slow speed, adjusting the clutch so you do not strip any of the fasteners.
Thanks for the video. Just completed my post break in oil change and this video made my life easier for sure! FYI, I put in 7.5 liters/quarts and I was at the min oil level. It took the full 8 liters/quarts to bring it up to max.
Interesting. I just did another change and 7.5 reflected perfectly again for me
@@JetFuelOnly I should have mentioned previously but I have a GTS 4.0, not that it should matter.
Shouldn’t matter… same engine! But that’s why it’s good to be conservative you never know.
It made my oil change a breeze
Thank you, greatly appreciated
This is a fantastic video! I did an oil change after 1600 miles on my new 718 Spyder after reviewing other TH-cam videos. Wish this video had been available then, as I struggled a bit but eventually gotter' done. Will watch this one again just before my next oil change.
Thanks! Good luck!
Awesome video...great info...not about you...no bloviating...clear directions...nicely illustrated. thanks...cheers.
Great service to the community. I used to do my own changes on my 986 and 987. This 718 GT4 / Spyder sure is making a strong case for electric cars. Can they make it any more annoying?! I see they’ve tucked the filter way up high just for fun.
Amazing quality. Thank you! You're giving obsessed garage a run for his money...
10:11 - If using LIFT BARS....
The answer is yes, all nuts / screws were removable (had to use an open end on the plastic nut. The pan was removable with a slight "bow". Personally, going forward removing those plastic nuts by the jack point will be the first task.
19:46 - did POR V2.0 reset the oil service interval?
Followed the same procedure as described in the video. For my 2023, the answer is yes. Checking the right hand dash display, "Vehicle - Info - Service Interval - Service Interval 2" the indicator re-set to the new 10,000 mile point.
Great video. Thanks so much for putting in the time and effort to make it. 😀
Good to know lift bars work out! Appreciate it.
Very informative! Thank you. One if a 718 s oil filter was that easy. Great idea about the ziplock bag.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I plan to change the oil in my Boxster 25 soon and this will definitely help.
Good to know. Love all your videos. More GT4 content 👍
Thanks for watching. See you at another event hopefully!
This is so well done man. Nice work.
Thanks! Wish I had a real lift for better camera angles
@@JetFuelOnly Saved for oil change #2.
Great how to. I’ll have 4K on my GT4 by the end of the week so time for a oil change. Don’t want to wait until the one year mark. Thank you.
Hood piece of mind I would say! Thanks for watching.
Great how to. Watched the whole thing even though I don't own a 718. I'd like to get one, though, if the car market ever gets back to some sort of normalcy.
I feel ya! I wouldn’t be trying to get one right now. I had no idea all this was coming shortly after I ordered mine.
Just the info I needed for my new GT4. Thanks!
Awesome
Awesome video - thanks for sharing the whole process! Really informative.
You really have a great channel. Always very well edited and very enjoyable to watch. Keep it up!
Thanks Doug, appreciate it!
Great video! When replacing the oil filter, I had trouble tightening the plastic housing. Eventually got it but it was VERY snug. Should I be able to hand tighten the filter housing? Wasnt able to without my wrench.
You’re right it’s much tighter than say just a metal filter I put on my other cars. I think it’s the plastic threads and large o-ring.
@@JetFuelOnly I worried i was over tightening it, but looks like its just the threads and seal like you mentioned. Thanks for the response!
Funny to see the VW/Audi logos on the oil temp sensor.^^ Good that you can skip step 2 and 3 for the GTS.
Terrific video, especially your detailed description and graphics of all those fasteners.
I'm wondering if the floor jack could be avoided by getting the car up on taller QuickJack blocks to create more clearance between its trays and the fasteners. i.e. by raising the car on the QuickJack, temporarily lowering the tires onto four 4-6" blocks, lowering the QuickJack, inserting the higher lift blocks and raising the car back up.
Yes! That’s another way to do it. I may end up doing that next time.
Thanks for posting this awesome video 👍
Awesome video! And just in time for my 2k mile oil change on my GT4. I was going back and forth on doing myself or taking to my Indy. I really needed to see the under body panel removals so thank you so much for that. Super helpful and I am going to give it a shot. I have quickjacks as well so I will be following this DIY step by step. Is there no way to loosen those bolts / panel where the quickjacks are in the way before you get started? Trying to save the hassle of the up and down and jack swapping if possible. Just curious…
You can remove the fasteners before lifting but there still won’t be any clearance to drop the panel. Maybe try commenter @Brian Wong method?
Great video. Many thanks! Which model QuickJack do you use for your GT4? Do you like it?
I have the 5000EXT. Need the EXT for anything bigger than a GT4
@@JetFuelOnly Thanks very much.
Great video! I am wondering if a thicker rubber block from QuickJack would give enough clearance to remove the underbody panel when the car is on the QuickJack? I did my first oil change at a DYI service garage and I got a QuickJack now and want to know ahead of the second oil change.
The problem is the thicker block won’t fit under the car while it’s on the ground. There’s just not enough clearance. However I did try method others suggested and that was lower the car onto some wood blocks so it had more ground clearance. Swap out taller Rubber blocks and then lift it. This would give enough clearance but the blocks were just too big and covered some of the area that I need to access. Maybe if I had narrower cylinder blocks?
Great video
Very well done.Great content
IMPORTANT EDITS!
OIL REQUIREMENTS HAVE CHANGED: The oil in this video is technically no longer C40 spec. The new approved oil for GT4/Spyder/4.0 GTS with 8k RPM motors is 0w-40 C40 which for now is only found in Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 X4 C40 oil. www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-x4-0w-40
1. I forgot that I could check the service interval on my right side multi-function screen (on the cluster). It now shows my next service is due at 17,000 miles. I BELIEVE it used to say 10,000 miles so I think the iCarsoft tool worked!
2. A tip from another Porsche enthusiast mentioned that the GT3 does in fact have a different size filter tool.
3. Just heard that a San Francisco Bay Area owner and TH-camr @Xxyion86 that average quotes for our area are $850 for oil change! With this tutorial you will save $650!
4. I have added a link in the video and description for an update to removing the 3rd panel while using Quickjacks. See link in description!
Thanks so much for the excellent video. You'd mentioned the iCarSoft POR v3 but the link in the description goes to iCarSoft CR Pro. Can you confirm which is the one you used? I'm very confused about all the different OBD scanners...
I just checked. The version I used was v2.0
So just to confirm, there were no or issues when you took it to the dealer regarding your oil reset. Meaning, it did worked appropriately when you reset the light yourself ?
Yes. And I’m now coming up on 2yr interval maintenance and it’s letting me know it’s time. I’ll reset that this week
Awesome overview! Curious, what did your Blackstone analysis show?
Very good video bud
Awesome work
A plastic oil pan lol
And no dip stick hmmm yeahhh that’s a great idea.
Great video very informative good job 👍. What does the dealer charge?? $$$
About $500
Amazing video, thank you!
Hey man, thanks for the videos. I’ve got a 22 gt4, and track it. 3500 miles and did over axel pipes and oil change this weekend. Dealer in Bellingham WA wants 350 for an oil change, f that!😅…sound is much better with the over axel pipes. Do you have a FB page I can follow?
Also, I must have got every drop out, but it took 9 quarts to get to the top mark. Crazy!
Wow 9 qts? Hmm. Make sure to recheck - I’ve seen it go up. Problem is I don’t think there’s indication of overfill.
I have a JET FUEL ONLY FB page but it’s not too active. I’m most active on IG.
I added and checked multiple times till it got to the full mark, adding a little at a time. Been checking all weekend and it’s staying at the full mark. Who knows without a dipstick 🤣
Great visuals on the panels! I'm contemplating diy but only have jack/jackstands, if I put the car on jack stands, would it be hard to remove the panels? Thanks!
Shouldn’t be a problem. The hard part with the Porsche is lifting with a jack and placing a stand. On the 981 without the rear panel, people sometimes place a stand on other crossmembers but with the 718 it’s not possible. You really need jack point stands or lift bars. But the jackpoint stand would get in the way too. Just have to turn it into a multi step process.
The video is done very well, but you realize the Boxster GTS 4.0 does not have the same underbody panels as the GT4 (apparently, as I've never seen under the GT4 until now). My GTS 4.0 has 1,800 miles on it and decided to do the break-in oil change. Got the car up on my Quick Jacks and lo and behold, no diffuser or transmission pan. There's some sort of metal pan covering the trans, but doesn't look anything like the one in your video. I'll remove the torx screws around the engine pan and see how it comes out. Frustrating in trying to find a good write-up on changing the GTS 4.0 oil, as it seems all the 2021 Boxster GTS 4.0's out there are different from mine. Well, at least once the panels are off that the procedure looks pretty straightforward...
I thought I mentioned that GTS owners won’t have so much to remove?
Ok looks like I edited that out. Would have been around 1:05 but instead I says it would be “pretty helpful” lol. Just be lucky you have less to do!
For GTS 4.0 owners, you only need to remove that one big panel with 4 plastic 10mm nuts, 4 10mm bolts, and 6 T25 screws. On another note, the tail end of that big panel should have been tucked under the bracing, looks like you didnt do it in the video. No big deal.
Are you referring to the metal tabs that get 10mm bolts? I see that in the video, I’ll have to look closer at possibly tucking them next time
@@JetFuelOnly not quite. I’m referring to the clips on the panel that receive two T25 screws. Those clips should be positioned above the bracing, not below. And bracing has holes that you’d route the T25 screws through.
@@oyurcha1 oh ok I think I see what you mean.
Great video, all the details needed, thank you! That drain plug does not give me a lot of confidence. Since it doesn’t actually tighten down, but just turns until it hits its stop, it’s not actually “tight” in there. Seems like it could easily leak, are these known for leaking?
Mine hasn’t leaked yet. Just did my second oil change.
@@JetFuelOnly Thanks, very good to hear.
Awesome work - I know there is the blackstone analysis and there is another done by the LN mob... thought about alternating?
Haven’t heard of it, I’ll look into it!
Got a link?
@@JetFuelOnly look for the thread Blackstone vs. Speeddiagnostix on Rennlist .
Amazing. Thank you!
Great tips.
I think you could engine flush on every 10k oil change and have the piece of mind instead of worrying and sending oil every now and then for analysis.
Plus adding the fuel system cleaner + injectors cleaner will keep everything happy
Hey Danial. Where did you get your GT4 T-shirt in this video??
eBay!
Great content! Love the GT4 shirt . . . where'd you get it?
eBay! Probably not licensed but you know I grabbed it!
I think its easy to worry way too much...In UK the 718 service interval is 20,000 miles or 2 years using Mobil 1 ESP x3 0w40 (factory fill).
Wow! That sounds like the interval on old Boxter and Caymans! I can’t imagine going past 10k and I think that’s what the US Manual says. But fresh break in I don’t think it hurts to flush it out.
@@JetFuelOnly Yeah no harm, just peace of mind.. I don't know of any oem's here that specify as low oil intervals as the US markets still seem to. I daily drive a new Ford Puma and that is 18,000 miles for it's first oil change. Modern engines are made/assembled so clean and the low wear rates of the latest oils means the break-in is very controlled and gradual. Not quite the same as rebuilding a old engine in your garage!
@@munnsey amazing! So many people still change at 3-5k miles around here! Half because they are told to by shops the other half because they think it’s better. Pretty much all cars and motorcycles I’ve had say at least 7k miles. Thanks for sharing!
The link for the oil drain plug tool shows that it does not fit the 4.0L. Can you verify this it’s the correct tool?
Yeah it’s correct. Dont know why it doesn’t list it. I see Pelican parts has some that attach to a socket wrench too.
So did it actually reset the oil service? Can you please confirm? Frustratingly seeking a DIY solution for my 992!
Best I can tell yes, but I haven’t had the dealer check. The 992 might be a different situation. Try to find an owner nearby with an icarsoft and give it a try
Just letting you know that your drain pan link is dead.
Thank you. I’ve updated it.
i see why porsche maintenance cost so much.. everything is tucked in. hours to get oil change and air filter change. sucks..
That underbody panel removal process is the result of poor German engineering. Why make it more complicated than necessary…they just want you to bring it to the dealer and pay through the nose…