I think stringmaking is one of those portions of archery that blends art, creativity and tradition together, especially with the flemish twist designs. I've been playing with different designs, bundle counts, or strand counts, etc and knowing that I can make and experiment with strings made by hand, (for the most part with flemish, but not knocking endless loop variations either) is an awesome skill to have and use, but also one of those aspects that deepens our understanding of archery to another level. Once you really start playing with strings, then you start playing with arrow builds, and eventually bow builds and along that journey we're always learning but also developing a deeper appreciation for those who originally thought to bend a branch and attach a string to it.
I love your videos. One improvement you need is to zoom in. I know strings but if I didn't, they would all look the same. Just color differences. I'd be confused.
Have you seen what Jorg Sprave from the slinngshot channel did with braided line? I honestly think thats the future of bows/crossbow strings. Lighter and stronger!! you guys should definitely give it a try
Hello, new to your channel very helpful so far, I’m into my first week of archery. I went with the Sanlida Eagle X9 35# 58” What do you recommend for just target shooting? So many options out there. Also any arrow recommendations? I’m using the supplied 30” carbon arrows, I would like to eventually get the new string and arrows together. Thanks.
We would be happy to help you find some upgrades for your gear. Please give us a call during the day at 1-260-587-9501 and we walk through some options to get you shooting at your best.
Thanks for the video, I'm in need of a new string as I've still been using the same string I got with my samick sage recurve bow 8 months ago and it's really on its last legs. Also, with brass nocks, is it recommended to use just one on the string? It's that I've seen people who use 2 on their string.
Hi, I love your explanations, but I have a puzzle for you. I have a 62" 35# traditional recurve, and I have a problem. Due to an accident, I lost the third anchor finger, and I shoot with one above and one below the nock point. By doing this, the angle I create back at my draw is much sharper, so the nock doesn't match up like the others. Could you tell me if I should move the nock to another position? Thank you very much and have a nice day.
I would suggest moving the nocking point down to closer, if not exactly, center. Similar to a compound bow with a D-loop on the string, you are applying equal pressure above and below the arrow, so nocking the arrow at center should give you similar results.
Hi…Johnathan…Thanks for the video about “Strings”. I have two bows.. one is a PSE NOVA 39.0” and the other is an olds BEAR ARCHERY AMOUNT 44”. I need the the full array for both.. can you recommend where in the Miami area a place to get them? I tried Bass ProShop with no luck..
I'm afraid I'm not sure why could help with strings for compound bows. We do have some strings 44" long, but they are with Dacron material and normally 15 strands or less. I'm not sure I'd trust that on a compound bow. You may be best to look for custom string builders, but you will still need a shop with a bow press to get the string put on (I believe).
@@3RiversArcheryI would like to ask regarding the hardwood-reinforced limb tips; I mean, they are not phenolic or bakelite materials. If I use a modern fiber string with less stretch like the 652 spectra or one that is less fast than the 652 like the D97, will the wooden-reinforced tips be able to handle both strings?
I'm afraid I cannot say without knowing the bow. If older bows, or homemade bows, I wouldn't risk it and just use Dacron strings. As if a bow tip snaps off the bow is ruined, or at the very most a wall hanger. I have seen folks use low stretch strings on older bows and those with hardwood tips without them breaking, but it is too big of a risk for me.
@@3RiversArchery Sanlida archery (jandao/noble models) TD recurve limbs. They have wood overlays from the lower tip to the end tip. I'm not sure if wooden overlays are strong enough to handle low-stretch fastflight strings. Some reviews said those limbs were FF-compatible.
Personally I wouldn't use a low stretch string unless you know for sure it can handle it. We have never carried those bows, so I cannot say. If they are just wood reinforced, I wouldn't risk it personally.
I just shot my bow for the first time and its consistently high and right. It didnt come with a string, so i ordered a cheap endless loop one off amazon and i noticed that the center serving is way high of center. Might be good for an arrow rest, but completely off center for off the shelf shooting. Is that whats making me shoot high-right? In my mind the 2 inches of extra serving up high is making the lower limb faster than the upper and driving my arrows up.
It may be best to give us a call to work through it. If you have no arrow rest, shooting off the bare shelf, that can damage your bow, but also makes for a hard surface that can impact arrow flight greatly. As for the center serving, be sure to check that the string is on properly, the upper loop is normally larger than the bottom. Strings normally have more serving on the lower part (to help protect the string from string slap). Your brace height and nock point height may also be reasons to your high-right hitting. The serving material placement though is too small to make an impact on the limbs performance though.
What string do you recommend I use on my Bear Montana longbow? It’s a 64” bow, 45#, I don’t hunt, just a casual shooter for fun and wanting to be the best I can.
A 61" string length would give you the proper brace height for a 64" longbow (normally). A high performance string (low stretch material) would be recommended as the Montana's reinforced tips can handle the string and it adds a lot to the performance, but not a requirement though. I always recommend Flemish twist design as you can twist them shorter as the string stretches and I like the look/feel of them.
@@3RiversArchery Thanks for answering 🤝🏻✨ I was asking because have such problem even with continuous loop string from UHMW PE with wax. Because of strongness of material there is no need in lot of strends. Even strong tight fishing knots not hold it well - string slowly become bigger. That's why I was ask. I'm in research how to solve this.
It will depend upon a the breaking strength of a single strand. Which is dependent upon the string material being used. Most modern material will be plenty strong, then it comes down to how thick you want the string so that your arrow nocks don't fall off (can also compensate with serving thickness).
Re-serving the bow string would be your best option. There are ways to pinch the nock fingers so they are tighter around the string, but modifying the nock can have an impact on its durability, which risks it breaking during shooting and having a dry fire of the bow. If you cannot reserve the string, try adding flat dental floss to your nock point. This is a temporary solution, but it does add some thickness to the area of most need.
You will see flatter shooting arrows and more feet per second (fps) with a high performance string. As for how much, that has too many factors to consider with it. One very much being the amount of strands used. As less strands make it lighter for a boost as well. I would say if you find a string you like, but it is hurting your fingers, you could try re-serving it with thicker serving material. This keeps the string as-is, but beef it up where your fingers grasp.
![HOW TO- FLEMISH TWIST BOW STRING- NO JIG- [Recurve and Longbow]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pfghhuJgpkA/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO- FLEMISH TWIST BOW STRING- NO JIG- [Recurve and Longbow]](/img/tr.png)
I think stringmaking is one of those portions of archery that blends art, creativity and tradition together, especially with the flemish twist designs. I've been playing with different designs, bundle counts, or strand counts, etc and knowing that I can make and experiment with strings made by hand, (for the most part with flemish, but not knocking endless loop variations either) is an awesome skill to have and use, but also one of those aspects that deepens our understanding of archery to another level. Once you really start playing with strings, then you start playing with arrow builds, and eventually bow builds and along that journey we're always learning but also developing a deeper appreciation for those who originally thought to bend a branch and attach a string to it.
Thank you for a very informative and helpful video that answered some questions I had about bow strings! 🥰
This channel is nothing but perfection in knowledge I love it. Subscribed
I love your videos. One improvement you need is to zoom in. I know strings but if I didn't, they would all look the same. Just color differences. I'd be confused.
thanks everyone for your input.
Have you seen what Jorg Sprave from the slinngshot channel did with braided line? I honestly think thats the future of bows/crossbow strings. Lighter and stronger!! you guys should definitely give it a try
Hello, new to your channel very helpful so far, I’m into my first week of archery. I went with the Sanlida Eagle X9 35# 58”
What do you recommend for just target shooting? So many options out there. Also any arrow recommendations? I’m using the supplied 30” carbon arrows, I would like to eventually get the new string and arrows together. Thanks.
We would be happy to help you find some upgrades for your gear. Please give us a call during the day at 1-260-587-9501 and we walk through some options to get you shooting at your best.
Thanks for the video, I'm in need of a new string as I've still been using the same string I got with my samick sage recurve bow 8 months ago and it's really on its last legs.
Also, with brass nocks, is it recommended to use just one on the string? It's that I've seen people who use 2 on their string.
Hi, I love your explanations, but I have a puzzle for you. I have a 62" 35# traditional recurve, and I have a problem. Due to an accident, I lost the third anchor finger, and I shoot with one above and one below the nock point. By doing this, the angle I create back at my draw is much sharper, so the nock doesn't match up like the others. Could you tell me if I should move the nock to another position? Thank you very much and have a nice day.
I would suggest moving the nocking point down to closer, if not exactly, center. Similar to a compound bow with a D-loop on the string, you are applying equal pressure above and below the arrow, so nocking the arrow at center should give you similar results.
Hi…Johnathan…Thanks for the video about “Strings”.
I have two bows.. one is a PSE NOVA 39.0” and the other is an olds BEAR ARCHERY AMOUNT 44”. I need the the full array for both.. can you recommend where in the Miami area a place to get them? I tried Bass ProShop with no luck..
I'm afraid I'm not sure why could help with strings for compound bows. We do have some strings 44" long, but they are with Dacron material and normally 15 strands or less. I'm not sure I'd trust that on a compound bow. You may be best to look for custom string builders, but you will still need a shop with a bow press to get the string put on (I believe).
@@3RiversArcheryI would like to ask regarding the hardwood-reinforced limb tips; I mean, they are not phenolic or bakelite materials. If I use a modern fiber string with less stretch like the 652 spectra or one that is less fast than the 652 like the D97, will the wooden-reinforced tips be able to handle both strings?
I'm afraid I cannot say without knowing the bow. If older bows, or homemade bows, I wouldn't risk it and just use Dacron strings. As if a bow tip snaps off the bow is ruined, or at the very most a wall hanger. I have seen folks use low stretch strings on older bows and those with hardwood tips without them breaking, but it is too big of a risk for me.
@@3RiversArchery Sanlida archery (jandao/noble models) TD recurve limbs. They have wood overlays from the lower tip to the end tip. I'm not sure if wooden overlays are strong enough to handle low-stretch fastflight strings. Some reviews said those limbs were FF-compatible.
Personally I wouldn't use a low stretch string unless you know for sure it can handle it. We have never carried those bows, so I cannot say. If they are just wood reinforced, I wouldn't risk it personally.
I just shot my bow for the first time and its consistently high and right. It didnt come with a string, so i ordered a cheap endless loop one off amazon and i noticed that the center serving is way high of center. Might be good for an arrow rest, but completely off center for off the shelf shooting. Is that whats making me shoot high-right? In my mind the 2 inches of extra serving up high is making the lower limb faster than the upper and driving my arrows up.
It may be best to give us a call to work through it. If you have no arrow rest, shooting off the bare shelf, that can damage your bow, but also makes for a hard surface that can impact arrow flight greatly. As for the center serving, be sure to check that the string is on properly, the upper loop is normally larger than the bottom. Strings normally have more serving on the lower part (to help protect the string from string slap). Your brace height and nock point height may also be reasons to your high-right hitting.
The serving material placement though is too small to make an impact on the limbs performance though.
Excellent information.
What string do you recommend I use on my Bear Montana longbow? It’s a 64” bow, 45#, I don’t hunt, just a casual shooter for fun and wanting to be the best I can.
A 61" string length would give you the proper brace height for a 64" longbow (normally). A high performance string (low stretch material) would be recommended as the Montana's reinforced tips can handle the string and it adds a lot to the performance, but not a requirement though. I always recommend Flemish twist design as you can twist them shorter as the string stretches and I like the look/feel of them.
Is there any benefit to serving the ends of the strings where the string lays against the bow limb? Could it prevent abrasion?
That would be an endless loop string, which yes, serving the ends does help with abrasion. Not prevent it, but helps with overall wear and tear.
What about 80..100 lb bows? Is flemish string will survive and not untwist on those?
Or that's a very bad idea to use flemish on hi poundage bows?
It would require more strands, but I do not believe the style of string would be an issue at heavier weights.
@@3RiversArchery Thanks for answering 🤝🏻✨
I was asking because have such problem even with continuous loop string from UHMW PE with wax.
Because of strongness of material there is no need in lot of strends. Even strong tight fishing knots not hold it well - string slowly become bigger.
That's why I was ask.
I'm in research how to solve this.
APR, is there a relation between the draw weight 30lb, 35lb and higher, and the number of strings to be used?
It will depend upon a the breaking strength of a single strand. Which is dependent upon the string material being used. Most modern material will be plenty strong, then it comes down to how thick you want the string so that your arrow nocks don't fall off (can also compensate with serving thickness).
I want to buy a BYC DynaFlight for my Samick Sage, the roll does come in 1/4'' and 1/8'', which one do I buy?
Depends on how many strings you are making. If only a few, the 1/8 pound would be enough.
i would like to buy a new riser but an unsure what I should get riser length to get that will suit
We will be happy to help. Please give us a call at 1-260-587-9501 to work with one of our techs (9-5 EST) or send us an email.
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My string is too thin for my nocks and I have tiny nocks.... what do I do?
Re-serving the bow string would be your best option. There are ways to pinch the nock fingers so they are tighter around the string, but modifying the nock can have an impact on its durability, which risks it breaking during shooting and having a dry fire of the bow. If you cannot reserve the string, try adding flat dental floss to your nock point. This is a temporary solution, but it does add some thickness to the area of most need.
What would happen if you mixed Dacron with a high performance string?
You'd get all of the cons of one without any of the pros of the other
What's the difference between performance on strings? And what is the most comfortable?( the one that doesn't make u feel like bleeding)
You will see flatter shooting arrows and more feet per second (fps) with a high performance string. As for how much, that has too many factors to consider with it. One very much being the amount of strands used. As less strands make it lighter for a boost as well. I would say if you find a string you like, but it is hurting your fingers, you could try re-serving it with thicker serving material. This keeps the string as-is, but beef it up where your fingers grasp.
Could a shoelace usable for bow strings?
No, a shoelace would not be able to handle the stress.