I upgraded my Hot Rod Deville ML yesterday using your tips and tricks, thanks a lot for the video! Replaced the Caps, lifting the resistors and diodes from the board, removing the silicone with a chisel worked like a charm. I tested the B+ with my tongue and still tasted like 495V so good to go!
Good to hear, mate! May she give you many more years of service. Stay posted for a higher quality video next time this job comes up and I have the time to do a video.
I'm about to attempt a similar repair on a Hot Rod Deville 212. Watching this really helps me understand what I'm gonna need to do. Thank you for posting it :)
At 36:30, The simple solution to not having the amp going into runaway from loss of bias if that pot fails would be to do what Fender used to do on the original amplifiers, which was run a jumper wire from the wiper terminal to the top end of the pot where the negative voltage enters it. This way if the internal wiper connection failed, the full resistance of the pot would remain in series with the fixed resistor below it, and negative bias voltage would increase, throttling back on the plate current to the tubes. The amp might not sound all that great running "cold" like that but it would prevent any major damage.
Great video Brad and amazing repair work. It's very satisfying seeing your level of craftsmanship while doing repairs & restorations the right way. Thanks for sharing your fine skills and expertise with us mere mortals. :) Subscribed and looking forward to watch your other videos. Cheers.
At 1:13:40, "forming pliers"! Very cool! Never seen those before! I shudder to think how many hundreds of resistors I have formed the leads on in a similar manner, the hard way, *by hand*, with needlenose pliers. I should get myself a pair of those! Of course, the alternate mounting method would be to stand the resistors on one end and secure them to the board and to each other with RTV silicone. There'd be a little more heat transfer to the board than the way you mounted them, but they'd be better secured against vibration with one end down against the board. I'd really like to find some tiny rivets or grommets that could be crimped to the board to replace the lifted pads, like a miniature version of the eyelets on vintage Fender amps. Or, tiny turrets that could be bolted onto the board....
On that last crimp I watched you not flip the crimppers in your hand and I said, "no it's backwards!". Alas. Don't you love doing things like that on camera? Thanks for posting this. I learned quite a bit, thanx!
YT recommended this to me this morning--subscribed. Just pushed a Blues Deluxe reissue off my bench last night. Wasn't cooked like this one in the vid, but still was a strange case...primary input winding for the power trans burned out and was DOA...
@@BradsGuitarGarage Replaced the power trans and the filter caps, for good measure. Customer ordered a Hammond transformer--and they did not install right angle spade terminals for the filament 6.3v tap. Had to get creative because of the clearances.
Oh god, don't judge me by this one, mate! It was the ultimate low effort video and it ended up my most popular I believe. Quite embarrassing. But, knowing how dumb the algorithm is, if I re-made it I bet it wouldn't do 1/100th as well.
@@BradsGuitarGarage hahaha. I know what you mean! I’m going to be picking up a used Limited Edition Fender Hot Rod Deluxe IV soon, and the thing I learned from this video is to make sure a professional does the work. Haha.
I've done some more recent and comprehensive videos on the Blues Jr, so maybe check them out too. Similar principles and issues apply across the whole Hotrod / Blues series.
I've just fixed a reverb on one of these - if you have non-functioning reverb and assuming you have a resistance meter or DMM, unplug phono/RCA jacks and measure impedance into each side of the reverb unit. You should see some impedance (not zero or open circuit). If open circit on either then first check visible wiring to the phono/RCA jacks and if no sign of broken wires look for green corrosion on fine enamel wires where soldered onto connector posts which will most probably be an indication of the fault. The latter was the problem in my case. Managed to resolder though it is a little tricky.
Hey man, invest in some Solder-Wick. It comes in various widths and they are copper braids infused with flux. Quick and easy on through hole work. They are a bit pricey for what they are but they work exceedingly well. I have a really nice Metcal Solder Station but I prefer to use the wicks to remove instead of the Metcal remover.
Also, Toluene a brush and a Kimwipe (Tissue) makes instant work of flux removal. I work in a major airlines avionics shop where we do component level repairs.
I have a very similar amp, a Blues DeVille 2x12 with the same exact issues. This is very good insight into what the possible causes are and an incentive NOT to try to repair it myself.
Really good job in going into how a professional pretty much needs to fix it but still teaching owners how to diagnose the problem. This js the first video I've seen of yours and haven't checked your catalog but I'd like to hear your analysis on new music products and if they are worth it or not
@@justinandrews2055 Capacitors don't generate significant heat unless they've gone terribly wrong. Silicone is a good heat conductor anyway. Silicone stops them from vibrating and fracturing their leads or solder joints, which is a common problem if silicone isn't used.
Awh man, I gotta check my Amp too. Recently I've checked an amp of my friend, and it has some of those dark spots too. I cleaned most dark spots, but just to clean it ofcourse but I think those do worry me a little. Hopefully it's not in a bad condition. And I surely hope mine isn't in a terrible condition. For now it works alright, but you mentioned something I remember... I thought... uh oh! o,0 Anyway, thanks for making the video, I got work to do!
Hi brad, got a few issues with my hot rod deluxe and it only a few years old. Just wondering when you're going to show the second instalment of the finished job ? Oh I forgot to say brilliant video and very informative and helpful... you certainly know your chickens ! Thanks for sharing with us mere mortals.
G'day John, this job is several years old and hasn't had any issues since, but this is the only video I have of that particular amp. Making videos was very much a part time hobby at the time as there were few people watching anything. I plan to do a more detailed and edited video on this series in the future when some good candidates present themselves.
Yeah, and those types of ribbon cables tend to be brittle right where they meet the circuit board. Flex them back-and-forth too much and the conductors start to break, andd it's a royal pain to unsolder the entire thing and strip all of them back in order to resolder the cable.
Great video Brad. Thank you. Wish there was a part two. I'm in the U.S. and about to replace the caps and a few resistors in my newly acquired Deville (2nd gen.) Wondering if you have an opinion on mod kits? Anything you like or should I just stick to replacing caps and resistors? Thanks!
Yikes just bought a 2002 mm for $250 didn't know shit about the heat problems fortunately the previous owner said he never used it so their is no heat damage. Damned sure going to change out those caps and raise up the resistors. Thanks for the heads up bro. I saw the R97 looked pretty fucked too but you didn't mention it. Fender can't even get the component list right they have what I assume is 2w, 1.2k written as 2w,12L Anyway thanks. Would have liked to see the end and test 🤙
Yes, R97 too. And also the Zeners in the low voltage supply. Install new ones with longer leads and lift them off the surface of the PCB with either ceramic standoffs or a kink in the lead to give some mechanical support on the top face of the PCB so it's not just relying on the solder pads. I've just had another one come in, so I'll try to find some time to do a more professional and concise updated video.
I agree. They get a bad rap, but they last several years after their warranty if taken care of, and after that, they can be fortefied to last decades rather easily.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Hey, Brad, I'm in the process of fortifying mine (waiting for caps, etc). Your Video will be most helpful, as I'm more a player but love the nuts&bolts side. Thanks!
Yeah noone knows how to solder lol. I have a burnt board like that too. I just replaced them with 2x500ohm 10w half floating above the board. Will be better for heat but not super secure for gigging but this amp will be a studio application so no chucking around.
Yup change out those input jacks. Guys never treat them well lol. Might as well do the Pwr Amp In jack too bc it manages all the signal routing to the output stage.
That's a symptom of the main problem with the heat damage to the low voltage power supply area. I'll make a better video on this one day, but not today.
Hi i have a amp that has two 6L6 tubes and Three 12ax7 tubes its 60 watts 12 inch speaker can i make it into a 59 BassMan mods like u did . How do i no if my amp is compatible to do this plese let me know.i can't do it ill need to take it to a tech ...thank u for any info
My hot rod crackles when I play loud it doesnt crackle if I dont play only when I strike a chord with a bit of power the amp crackles and the notes distorts. On low volumes it's fine. Some times it's fine on high volume. But when I hit the amp with a high gain pedal an plam mute on the guitar it starts to crackle and the volume goes up and down on it's own. Could you kindly help please
Did you ever make a second video to show how you handled the lifted pads on the back side of the board for the 2 sandbox resistors? I have a similar situation except all 4 pads lifted off the board and I'm looking on how best to repair it.
That is excellent, and I hope it keeps going that way for you. People comment that all the time. Depends on usage habits, but one day it will occur to you too. Just a matter of when.
Not sure, mate. Maybe ask on the Facebook amp groups if anyone has one on hand and get the chassis screw locations and control plate cutout dimensions and compare with a DIY bassman chassis. Most of the vendors that sell them have the chassis dimension drawings on their product pages.
Awesome video Brad! I have a blues deville and the high/mid/low knobs does not seem to work. When i want to “equalize” it the treble knob does not do its work and even adds volume to the master output. Why would that be happening?
I just subscribed in the hope you have a video on your voicing of any tube amp. I could use the knowledge just out of my own curiosity. Oh, that shouldn't be paint on that pot. I can't remember the name, but that should be a particular type of a pot "wiper lock" substance, I 'M JUST TOO FREANKING OLD NOW TO REMEMBER anything!!!!!! LOL
Thanks for subscribing, Rich. That is a very open ended topic and anything more than general gain structure and eq advice would be specific to any amp architecture, not applicable to other models.
@@BradsGuitarGarage That's just what I am looking for: A "general Idea" of what components are charged, where in the Eg, and what the end result was. Brad, I've never even seen the inside of a guitar amp but designed numerous electronic Industrial controls. I can make some sense of a new analog schematic and circuit. Anything would be good to this old, retired, "bored shitless" Eng. Thanks
@@BradsGuitarGarage That's O.K. I was only hoping you had a posted video in channels list already. I hope you do show one the amps you designed though.
Hey Brad, thanks for your video's on the Hot rod deluxe amps. I have recapped and changed a few things as per your instructions and two years on everything is still working a treat. Thank you. Have you done any vids on the Fender deluxe reissues with a ticking vibrato. There are a few vids out there that appear to be pretty straight forward but wanted to see if you had done something before I start as I enjoyed your work. Regards, Anthony
Hello mate. I've got an updated Hot Rod amp video coming up which should be a nit more concise and looking better. As for the DRRI ticking trem, 90% of the time it's just a lead dress issue, so try getting a tech to move the wires for the relevant tubes around and see if it affects it. It could also be a failing coupling cap, a bad tube, many other potential issues, but I've found the lead dress issues to be most likely.
A hive of info .i thoroughly enjoyed this .Could you resolve the volume jump issue ? I put an ebay log pot on mine it seems to roll up and down now evenly ,but I don't trust my own judgement without a full understanding of why,
The other day my hot rod deluxe iii stopped working. If you flip the on switch you can hear a humming and nothing else lights up or works (except the channel select button). Any help?
My original hotrod deville started to make only noise. i would bump top of amp and would just pop and crack at very very loud. I tapped tested the ax7s and replaced all three as they were microphonic and crackled. My amp works now with no noise whatsoever but the output is very low. Usually cant play above 2 or 3 but even if turn up to 8 on up it still very low and distorted. From your experience could it be powertubes as well. thx
Need your opinion on replacing the volume pots, the only the I been able to find are snap in linear taper pots. would you recommend a linear attenuate pot, want to tame the volume jump. /
I have a 1990's blues deville 4x10. Is it possible to turn it into a handwired circuit, and mount the tube sockets to the chassis, instead of the plastic pcp? I'm sure it could get expensive.
Great video's, very informative, thanks. Just a quick question, I'm going to replace the power resistors R78 & R79 and was wondering if there's any reason why I shouldn't use wire wound 470 ohm 5w aluminium case resistors. I'm thinking this may be a way of dissipating the heat being generated onto the board.
No, the tolerance doesn't matter in that application, what matters is getting them up off the board. I apologize for this video being sub-standard as it was made before I took TH-cam seriously. Here's a photo of how to mount them to avoid future issues: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=498848058912940&set=pcb.498855208912225
Have they changed the components in these at all to better quality? I’m assuming my 2004 hrd hasn’t changed but I was curious if they addressed this at all.
I have an old Hot Rod Deville 4x10 with a fixed MV, it sounds really great on the drive channel, when I keep the gain down to 2 - 3, and I have no intentions to change anything on that. But now I have bought a Hot Rod Deluxe III and that does not sound as good. The clean channel has thundering bass, and the drive channel is a little low on bass. It shows up that the preamp in HRDLX III has been changed. It has 2 coupling caps in the first stage. 22 nF for the clean channel, which is quite common in preamps, and only 580 pF in the dirty channel, which is quite low, and will let much less bass through (The DeVille strangely enough has 1,5 nF). That would only make sense on a 4x10. The stock Celestion speaker G12P-80 sounds ok, but I will try an Eminence Cannabis Rex, and then I will try to make C18 10 nF and C23 2,2 nF. I am going for a slightly driven Tweed kind of sound. Kind of like the Bonnamassa High powered Twin.
Hey Brad, awesome video! Think you have any idea why a Hot Rod Deluxe passes audio through but at a really low volume for the clean and both overdrive channels? Thanks
Either you've got the speaker plugged into the wrong jack, or you have open circuit screen resistors, or a broken jack or solder connection to the jack on either the input or the power amp input jacks. There could be other things too.
I have an older hot rod deluxe. 2 issues. #1 Input work but some time cuts out and I can change that but the second main problem is after a couple hours the amp volume will surge to a high volume. Some times it will buzz afterwards. I shut it off and on and it seems fine for a while. Do you know what is causing this. Thx in advance and good video. You are very knowledgeable
Sorry about the delay mate, but it sounds like it has several issues, but these are nothing new and can be addressed by a reputable technician. Let me know if you need some advice on who to see. We're a close knit bunch, even globally.
Hi Brad's G Garage i have a Hot Rod De Ville 095270 if that matters it's a 4x10 my problem is some one unpluged the speakers so be for i turn it on id like to figure the wiring a picture would be nice thank you nice video to thank you
Hi Brad, You’ve fixed my bandmates Vox before (the really old messed up one) my other band mate has one of these hot rod deluxe and its overheating and the signal is getting chopped up like a tremolo. Is this a normal deluxe issue or is hers just screwed?
Hello mate. I've never had one I couldn't repair. Generally the most difficult part is if someone who didn't know what they were doing had a go at the repair first. Sounds like the typical low voltage supply problems as shown in this video.
Hello Brad. I have a Blues Deville. After I’ve been playing for a while it will cut out. I noticed that the second channel light turns off and on when this occurs. Could this be a cap issue? Also where did you get those pliers and what is the model of your desolder gun?
That fault is likely caused by heat damage to the low voltage power supply PCB traces, just like on the amp in this video. The caps may or may not be failing, but probably aren't the cause of this issue. The pliers are Piergiacomi C-Type Preforming Tool PNG5000. Erem also make very nice but more expensive equivalents. The desolder station is a Hakko 474 with an 815 handpiece.
Too bad amps are not like cars and a recall isn't ever issued. These Hot Rod amps all have this exact same issue. Someone explain to me why Fender doesn't build these right after all these years? It wouldn't be hard to do. They would be legendary amps if Fender only did this one simple trick!
Thanks for the video. My hot rod deville 212 IV started playing up yesterday....I first started hearing loud pops, but now I'll be playing for a few mins (guitar is plugged directly into input 1) and the volume just max's out even though it's on 1 volume for both master and normal, changing the volume knob on the guitar does nothing, the sound doesn't appear to be coming from the guitar. It's so loud that I get hit by a pressure wave and my ears are ringing. Not ideal, as you can imagine, my girlfriend (and the neighbours for that matter are not impressed)....Any ideas? It's still under warranty, but the company I bought it from is half way across Europe
@@BradsGuitarGarage Wow, my advice is not to be rude to people on your own channel asking for advice. I guess your from NZ and just aren't aware how buying things works in the EU. Never mind, you can go back to your tinkering.
Hello, I've been using my BDRI 15 years with no problems until a week ago the reverb stopped working. The rest of the amp works correctly, just zero reverb. The reverb 12AX7 tube checked good and I swapped another good one in with no affect. Anyone have any ideas? They'd be greatly appreciated.
Measuring the bias current with a signal present?!! You are adjusting the quiescent or IDLE current. The amp is not at idle if you're running a test tone through it.
As I mentioned in the video, it's "safe". I just wanted to check that neither of the old valves were shorted or semi-shorted. They were replaced and the output bias set for the new output valves with no signal present.
Cool. Maybe reinforce to your amateur viewers that any signal at will give an inaccurate reading. I usually just pull the plug from the input. Good stuff, though.
hey brad, i have a weird issue with my deluxe II . Volume at 0 as sound . Drive sound actually. the more i push the volume toward 1 goes back to zero and past 1 functions normally. I feels like the 0 volume was shifted at 1 , and there was a " negative volume " below zero. Did you ever heard of that ? THis problem is actually no preventing me from playing at all , but i don't want to damage it. second problem : more annoying . often in gigs / jams if the amp has been on for 2 or 3 hours and get warm, the volume might drops suddenly, and sounds become really " transistor like " and cold. Professionnals never saw any problem because they probably don't play the amp for 3 hours staigth before to see where is the problem.
Question please. I've got one of these been in storage 10 years and I want to get it up and running again. Is there something special I need to do to make sure it works and doesn't blow up?
Piergiacomi PNG5000. The ones in the video, purchased about 5 years ago are nicely machined and seem to be discontinued. The new ones of the same model number seem to be machined using a cheaper EDM process and they are rough, with sharp points at the kink on some specimens, which is a total no-no. It may lead to a nick in the component lead and failure due to fatigue. Not impressed.
If you want it to last 10-15 trouble free years of hard useage, take it to a tech for some upgrades and mitigation of heat issues, otherwise, if you can afford to have it fail at some point (ie: it's not your only gigging amp), you could run the gauntlet and hope for the best. I'd get it sorted now if it was me, though.
@@BradsGuitarGarage ok, the top does get pretty hot when playing but aside from that it looks nice atleast from the outside ha. Maybe ill try to find someone to look at it to make sure, thanks.
I jus found a fender blues deluxe reissue ...I can't get sound the channel doesn't switch,reverb doesn't work, tubes are new...can u fix it..an is it worth fixing?
That's the same issue as this one. Probably broken traces on the low voltage power supply. I can fix it if you live near Sydney Australia, otherwise I cannot.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I jus looked again an I see one of the connection between the second tube to circuit board is not solder in ..an I live in Brooklyn NY by the way.. and the video was helpful 👍
ya know, I'm pretty handy and can definitely do basic repairs, caps, tubes maybe broken boards and all that but I have this awesome Blues Deville 212 with n over drive channel issue. Im not sure if its the pot or something else. Sometimes it kinda works and sometimes not at all. (recently, not at all) how can I tell if its just the pot or something else, more serious and expensive to repair. I'm basically a poor man so I really can't afford to bring my shit to ANY repair shop, these days. Thanks
What do you mean by "kinda works/not at all"? Do you mean it won't switch to the overdrive channel, or if you switch to the overdrive channel, then there's no signal?
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the REply. Anyway, it WAS acting up like when you hit the OD channel switch it would come in blasting and if you touched the drive pot it would sometimes just cut out, altogether. I finally stopped procrastinating and disassembled it, cleaned the pot real good and resoldered any suspect looking spots. It's been fine since I put it back together, too. Really man, I appreciate you getting back to me on that. And I REALLY appreciate your videos. There's just SO many clowns on here. I think they just like the sound of their own voices, though. Lol. Oh, and I'm working on uploading a little video of an ORIGINAL Fender Princeton '66 that you might like. That amp is just UN-matched -imho- as far as tone. And it's practically silent, too!
Dropping 48V to 16V that way is just plain lazy designing. So they could not have bothered to spec a main transformer with a proper voltage for that circuit. Have you found a different supplier for those caps than Illinois Cap? Can't believe they used axial caps. With radials and snap ins you have way more supplier options.
New valves. Hold them to stop them rattling one at a time to see which one it is. I suggest avoiding JJ's, particularly their 6V6's and 6L6GC's until they resolve their rattle issues.
I assume you're talking about the footswitch dropper. If it's heat affected, replace with same resistance, slightly higher wattage, mounted above the board with ceramic standoffs to prevent the heat making it to the board and to have better airflow around the component.
Not for this particular amp mate, sorry. I'll be doing a more thorough and higher quality video on this series soon, but in the meantime I have a shop to run. Stay posted. In the meantime, check out Lyle @ Psionic Audio's videos on this series of amps. His videos are a lot to live up to.
But I will say that I bought my Blues Deluxe NEW in 1994 ... It still works and sounds fantastic! I just didn't expect a computer under neath that cover ...
Man, the more I see of these fender boards from the last 30 years up to todays shit, the more I want to steer clear of them. time to sell the blues junior and buy a hand wired amp. fuck these cheap ass boards where the traces and pads lift if you look at them wrong
Haha, working on your own amp is fine if you know what to look out for. I'll make an updated vid on this subject soon. This one is a bit raw to say the least. I'm closer to Sydney, but go and see Grant at EAV. He's the man.
I upgraded my Hot Rod Deville ML yesterday using your tips and tricks, thanks a lot for the video! Replaced the Caps, lifting the resistors and diodes from the board, removing the silicone with a chisel worked like a charm. I tested the B+ with my tongue and still tasted like 495V so good to go!
Good to hear, mate!
May she give you many more years of service.
Stay posted for a higher quality video next time this job comes up and I have the time to do a video.
youtube has been recommending smaller channels lately. really appreciate you putting out this content.
Thanks mate! I've been a bit busy this time of year, but should get some more videos done soon.
Watched the whole thing.. Nothing wromg with my amp.. You are a pleasure to follow along. Thanks.
I'm about to attempt a similar repair on a Hot Rod Deville 212. Watching this really helps me understand what I'm gonna need to do. Thank you for posting it :)
At 36:30, The simple solution to not having the amp going into runaway from loss of bias if that pot fails would be to do what Fender used to do on the original amplifiers, which was run a jumper wire from the wiper terminal to the top end of the pot where the negative voltage enters it. This way if the internal wiper connection failed, the full resistance of the pot would remain in series with the fixed resistor below it, and negative bias voltage would increase, throttling back on the plate current to the tubes. The amp might not sound all that great running "cold" like that but it would prevent any major damage.
Great video Brad and amazing repair work. It's very satisfying seeing your level of craftsmanship while doing repairs & restorations the right way. Thanks for sharing your fine skills and expertise with us mere mortals. :) Subscribed and looking forward to watch your other videos. Cheers.
Mate, I'm a glorified janitor.
At 1:13:40, "forming pliers"! Very cool! Never seen those before! I shudder to think how many hundreds of resistors I have formed the leads on in a similar manner, the hard way, *by hand*, with needlenose pliers. I should get myself a pair of those!
Of course, the alternate mounting method would be to stand the resistors on one end and secure them to the board and to each other with RTV silicone. There'd be a little more heat transfer to the board than the way you mounted them, but they'd be better secured against vibration with one end down against the board.
I'd really like to find some tiny rivets or grommets that could be crimped to the board to replace the lifted pads, like a miniature version of the eyelets on vintage Fender amps. Or, tiny turrets that could be bolted onto the board....
I’m currently working on a heat sink mod for those resistors on my buddy’s Blues Deluxe but I like your idea a lot as well. Thanks!
Oh, look at pre-covid, pre-shopfront me. So carefree and easygoing!
Thanks Brad, valuable content. I appreciate it.
On that last crimp I watched you not flip the crimppers in your hand and I said, "no it's backwards!". Alas. Don't you love doing things like that on camera? Thanks for posting this. I learned quite a bit, thanx!
Yeah, I say some pretty stupid stuff with a camera in my face too. Haha!
YT recommended this to me this morning--subscribed. Just pushed a Blues Deluxe reissue off my bench last night. Wasn't cooked like this one in the vid, but still was a strange case...primary input winding for the power trans burned out and was DOA...
Weird one, I haven't seen that, myself. I hope it worked out well.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Replaced the power trans and the filter caps, for good measure. Customer ordered a Hammond transformer--and they did not install right angle spade terminals for the filament 6.3v tap. Had to get creative because of the clearances.
I watched the whole thing mesmerized. Man I love your videos. Hahaha. Cheers!
Oh god, don't judge me by this one, mate!
It was the ultimate low effort video and it ended up my most popular I believe.
Quite embarrassing. But, knowing how dumb the algorithm is, if I re-made it I bet it wouldn't do 1/100th as well.
@@BradsGuitarGarage hahaha. I know what you mean! I’m going to be picking up a used Limited Edition Fender Hot Rod Deluxe IV soon, and the thing I learned from this video is to make sure a professional does the work. Haha.
I've done some more recent and comprehensive videos on the Blues Jr, so maybe check them out too. Similar principles and issues apply across the whole Hotrod / Blues series.
@@BradsGuitarGarage oh that’s fabulous! I’ll go watch them now! Cheers!
I've just fixed a reverb on one of these - if you have non-functioning reverb and assuming you have a resistance meter or DMM, unplug phono/RCA jacks and measure impedance into each side of the reverb unit. You should see some impedance (not zero or open circuit). If open circit on either then first check visible wiring to the phono/RCA jacks and if no sign of broken wires look for green corrosion on fine enamel wires where soldered onto connector posts which will most probably be an indication of the fault. The latter was the problem in my case. Managed to resolder though it is a little tricky.
Hey man, invest in some Solder-Wick. It comes in various widths and they are copper braids infused with flux. Quick and easy on through hole work. They are a bit pricey for what they are but they work exceedingly well. I have a really nice Metcal Solder Station but I prefer to use the wicks to remove instead of the Metcal remover.
Also, Toluene a brush and a Kimwipe (Tissue) makes instant work of flux removal. I work in a major airlines avionics shop where we do component level repairs.
I have a very similar amp, a Blues DeVille 2x12 with the same exact issues. This is very good insight into what the possible causes are and an incentive NOT to try to repair it myself.
Exactly my thoughts as well. I'm extremely handy and have repaired so many things but I think I would leave this one to the pros.
Really good job in going into how a professional pretty much needs to fix it but still teaching owners how to diagnose the problem.
This js the first video I've seen of yours and haven't checked your catalog but I'd like to hear your analysis on new music products and if they are worth it or not
Awesome video and extremely helpful!
Brad, what does the silicone do? Is it necessary? wouldn't it cause the capacitors to heat up more?
Thanks!
@@justinandrews2055 Capacitors don't generate significant heat unless they've gone terribly wrong. Silicone is a good heat conductor anyway. Silicone stops them from vibrating and fracturing their leads or solder joints, which is a common problem if silicone isn't used.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Got it thank you!!
This video has convinced me to sell my hot rod
Awh man, I gotta check my Amp too.
Recently I've checked an amp of my friend, and it has some of those dark spots too.
I cleaned most dark spots, but just to clean it ofcourse but I think those do worry me a little.
Hopefully it's not in a bad condition. And I surely hope mine isn't in a terrible condition.
For now it works alright, but you mentioned something I remember... I thought... uh oh! o,0
Anyway, thanks for making the video, I got work to do!
The rika rika on the signal genie is hilarious.
Good video, I appreciate your style!
Hi brad, got a few issues with my hot rod deluxe and it only a few years old.
Just wondering when you're going to show the second instalment of the finished job ?
Oh I forgot to say brilliant video and very informative and helpful... you certainly know your chickens ! Thanks for sharing with us mere mortals.
G'day John, this job is several years old and hasn't had any issues since, but this is the only video I have of that particular amp. Making videos was very much a part time hobby at the time as there were few people watching anything.
I plan to do a more detailed and edited video on this series in the future when some good candidates present themselves.
My amp had the same crusty leak. 1998 amp. F&T baby!
The sight of ribbon cables in a Fender make me want to run and hide !!!
Yeah, and those types of ribbon cables tend to be brittle right where they meet the circuit board. Flex them back-and-forth too much and the conductors start to break, andd it's a royal pain to unsolder the entire thing and strip all of them back in order to resolder the cable.
Great video Brad. Thank you. Wish there was a part two. I'm in the U.S. and about to replace the caps and a few resistors in my newly acquired Deville (2nd gen.) Wondering if you have an opinion on mod kits? Anything you like or should I just stick to replacing caps and resistors? Thanks!
Man you look so much like my brother it cool. Twins
A shorted CR28 (D28) 10V Zener diode was the culprit with "non-channel switching" in a Hot Rod Deluxe I recently serviced. FYI
Yes, there are a few faults which can cause that symptom.
"and your three second memory dies" ...... LMFAO
Yikes just bought a 2002 mm for $250 didn't know shit about the heat problems fortunately the previous owner said he never used it so their is no heat damage. Damned sure going to change out those caps and raise up the resistors. Thanks for the heads up bro. I saw the R97 looked pretty fucked too but you didn't mention it. Fender can't even get the component list right they have what I assume is 2w, 1.2k written as 2w,12L Anyway thanks. Would have liked to see the end and test 🤙
Yes, R97 too. And also the Zeners in the low voltage supply. Install new ones with longer leads and lift them off the surface of the PCB with either ceramic standoffs or a kink in the lead to give some mechanical support on the top face of the PCB so it's not just relying on the solder pads.
I've just had another one come in, so I'll try to find some time to do a more professional and concise updated video.
Good video, and I think for the money, the Hot Rod Deluxe is a workhorse amp. Even with cheap caps. (I have a '96)
I agree. They get a bad rap, but they last several years after their warranty if taken care of, and after that, they can be fortefied to last decades rather easily.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Hey, Brad, I'm in the process of fortifying mine (waiting for caps, etc). Your Video will be most helpful, as I'm more a player but love the nuts&bolts side. Thanks!
Hey Brad you don't sound like a Texan. You from New York? Love your videos.
You jerkin my chain, mate? LOL!
@@BradsGuitarGarage I thought you might get a kick. Great videos
Mine crackles on low notes. Checked things found a microphonic tube but doubt that is making the loose rattle. Nothing seems loose.
Yeah noone knows how to solder lol. I have a burnt board like that too. I just replaced them with 2x500ohm 10w half floating above the board. Will be better for heat but not super secure for gigging but this amp will be a studio application so no chucking around.
Yup change out those input jacks. Guys never treat them well lol. Might as well do the Pwr Amp In jack too bc it manages all the signal routing to the output stage.
Watching this in 2024 trying to find why my 2019 blues deluxe volume drops out occasionally only only the drive channel
I need the fix for the overdrive and reverb not functioning. Is it on this video and if so what time interval. Thanks
That's a symptom of the main problem with the heat damage to the low voltage power supply area.
I'll make a better video on this one day, but not today.
Great video, would love to see part 2 if it exists. Have a link to a set of those pliers that I could purchase by chance?
www.mektronics.com.au/piergiacomi-c-type-preforming-tool.html
@@BradsGuitarGarage thanks!
@@moobox No worries. I'll try to do a better produced more thought out one in the future.
Hi i have a amp that has two 6L6 tubes and Three 12ax7 tubes its 60 watts 12 inch speaker can i make it into a 59 BassMan mods like u did . How do i no if my amp is compatible to do this plese let me know.i can't do it ill need to take it to a tech ...thank u for any info
My hot rod crackles when I play loud it doesnt crackle if I dont play only when I strike a chord with a bit of power the amp crackles and the notes distorts. On low volumes it's fine. Some times it's fine on high volume. But when I hit the amp with a high gain pedal an plam mute on the guitar it starts to crackle and the volume goes up and down on it's own. Could you kindly help please
G'day Luke, Join a facebook group called Tube Amplifier Repair and Diagnosis and ask the boys on there. Too hard to help on TH-cam comments.
Did you ever make a second video to show how you handled the lifted pads on the back side of the board for the 2 sandbox resistors? I have a similar situation except all 4 pads lifted off the board and I'm looking on how best to repair it.
facebook.com/bradsguitargarage/photos/a.463106907191170/1222218284613358/?type=3&theater
I’ve had a hotrod deluxe III for about 10 years without issues! Maybe I got lucky
That is excellent, and I hope it keeps going that way for you.
People comment that all the time.
Depends on usage habits, but one day it will occur to you too.
Just a matter of when.
I have a Blues Deville 4-10 Tweed cab. I want to gut it and install a Mojo Tone Bassman kit. I wonder if the chassis is interchangeable?
Not sure, mate.
Maybe ask on the Facebook amp groups if anyone has one on hand and get the chassis screw locations and control plate cutout dimensions and compare with a DIY bassman chassis. Most of the vendors that sell them have the chassis dimension drawings on their product pages.
Awesome video Brad! I have a blues deville and the high/mid/low knobs does not seem to work. When i want to “equalize” it the treble knob does not do its work and even adds volume to the master output. Why would that be happening?
i like the video. although doing it yourself isn't only about being cheap. you could be broke and need it fixed!
I just subscribed in the hope you have a video on your voicing of any tube amp. I could use the knowledge just out of my own curiosity. Oh, that shouldn't be paint on that pot. I can't remember the name, but that should be a particular type of a pot "wiper lock" substance, I 'M JUST TOO FREANKING OLD NOW TO REMEMBER anything!!!!!! LOL
Thanks for subscribing, Rich.
That is a very open ended topic and anything more than general gain structure and eq advice would be specific to any amp architecture, not applicable to other models.
@@BradsGuitarGarage That's just what I am looking for: A "general Idea" of what components are charged, where in the Eg, and what the end result was. Brad, I've never even seen the inside of a guitar amp but designed numerous electronic Industrial controls. I can make some sense of a new analog schematic and circuit. Anything would be good to this old, retired, "bored shitless" Eng. Thanks
I'll have a think about it, mate.
I'm designing a few amps at the moment, but have a very tight schedule, so not much time for videos.
@@BradsGuitarGarage That's O.K. I was only hoping you had a posted video in channels list already. I hope you do show one the amps you designed though.
In the meantime, check out Rob's excellent article on the topic: robrobinette.com/Voicing_an_Amp.htm
Hey Brad, thanks for your video's on the Hot rod deluxe amps. I have recapped and changed a few things as per your instructions and two years on everything is still working a treat. Thank you. Have you done any vids on the Fender deluxe reissues with a ticking vibrato. There are a few vids out there that appear to be pretty straight forward but wanted to see if you had done something before I start as I enjoyed your work. Regards, Anthony
Hello mate.
I've got an updated Hot Rod amp video coming up which should be a nit more concise and looking better.
As for the DRRI ticking trem, 90% of the time it's just a lead dress issue, so try getting a tech to move the wires for the relevant tubes around and see if it affects it.
It could also be a failing coupling cap, a bad tube, many other potential issues, but I've found the lead dress issues to be most likely.
A hive of info .i thoroughly enjoyed this .Could you resolve the volume jump issue ? I put an ebay log pot on mine it seems to roll up and down now evenly ,but I don't trust my own judgement without a full understanding of why,
The other day my hot rod deluxe iii stopped working. If you flip the on switch you can hear a humming and nothing else lights up or works (except the channel select button). Any help?
My original hotrod deville started to make only noise. i would bump top of amp and would just pop and crack at very very loud. I tapped tested the ax7s and replaced all three as they were microphonic and crackled. My amp works now with no noise whatsoever but the output is very low. Usually cant play above 2 or 3 but even if turn up to 8 on up it still very low and distorted. From your experience could it be powertubes as well. thx
MATE - Are you having the same issue with the IV version? I am thinking of getting one - because they sound cool. I am in Sydney - where are you?
Every version of every model has the same issue so far. As for our location, just google the name.
@@BradsGuitarGarage OK I am in Sydney - so that will be handy
Need your opinion on replacing the volume pots, the only the I been able to find are snap in linear taper pots. would you recommend a linear attenuate pot, want to tame the volume jump. /
I have a 1990's blues deville 4x10. Is it possible to turn it into a handwired circuit, and mount the tube sockets to the chassis, instead of the plastic pcp? I'm sure it could get expensive.
Anything is possible, this amplifier doesn't lend itself to an easy conversion unless you are experienced and adventurous, however.
Where do you get those lead forming pliers? Can't seem to find them in the USA.
Great video's, very informative, thanks. Just a quick question, I'm going to replace the power resistors R78 & R79 and was wondering if there's any reason why I shouldn't use wire wound 470 ohm 5w aluminium case resistors. I'm thinking this may be a way of dissipating the heat being generated onto the board.
No reason other than the labour required. That's a good solution for boards which are too far gone to repair in the area.
@@BradsGuitarGarage How did you sort out the pad that came off at 52.50
The stock 5w resistors in my hrd are burning board.
They are 10%, does it matter if I fit 5% as cant find 10%?
Their still 470ohm 5w.
Thanks
No, the tolerance doesn't matter in that application, what matters is getting them up off the board. I apologize for this video being sub-standard as it was made before I took TH-cam seriously. Here's a photo of how to mount them to avoid future issues: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=498848058912940&set=pcb.498855208912225
@@BradsGuitarGarage its a great video.
Have they changed the components in these at all to better quality? I’m assuming my 2004 hrd hasn’t changed but I was curious if they addressed this at all.
I know this video is a bit old but I’m curious how much a repair like this would run typically? Very informative, subscribed ✌️
Just under $300 AUD if all the valves are okay.
Well worth the cost. Brad is a professional and stands by his work. My HRD will last the rest of my life. Thanks Brad. Customer for life too.
I have an old Hot Rod Deville 4x10 with a fixed MV, it sounds really great on the drive channel, when I keep the gain down to 2 - 3, and I have no intentions to change anything on
that. But now I have bought a Hot Rod Deluxe III and that does not sound as good. The clean channel has thundering bass, and the drive channel is a little low on bass. It shows
up that the preamp in HRDLX III has been changed. It has 2 coupling caps in the first stage. 22 nF for the clean channel, which is quite common in preamps, and only 580 pF in
the dirty channel, which is quite low, and will let much less bass through (The DeVille strangely enough has 1,5 nF). That would only make sense on a 4x10.
The stock Celestion speaker G12P-80 sounds ok, but I will try an Eminence Cannabis Rex, and then I will try to make C18 10 nF and C23 2,2 nF. I am going for a slightly driven
Tweed kind of sound. Kind of like the Bonnamassa High powered Twin.
Hey Brad, awesome video! Think you have any idea why a Hot Rod Deluxe passes audio through but at a really low volume for the clean and both overdrive channels? Thanks
Either you've got the speaker plugged into the wrong jack, or you have open circuit screen resistors, or a broken jack or solder connection to the jack on either the input or the power amp input jacks. There could be other things too.
I have an older hot rod deluxe. 2 issues. #1 Input work but some time cuts out and I can change that but the second main problem is after a couple hours the amp volume will surge to a high volume. Some times it will buzz afterwards. I shut it off and on and it seems fine for a while. Do you know what is causing this. Thx in advance and good video. You are very knowledgeable
Sorry about the delay mate, but it sounds like it has several issues, but these are nothing new and can be addressed by a reputable technician. Let me know if you need some advice on who to see. We're a close knit bunch, even globally.
Hi Brad's G Garage i have a Hot Rod De Ville 095270 if that matters it's a 4x10 my problem is some one unpluged the speakers so be for i turn it on id like to figure the wiring a picture would be nice thank you nice video to thank you
Seu vídeo está sendo de grande ajuda para mim aqui no Brasil.
Hi Brad,
You’ve fixed my bandmates Vox before (the really old messed up one) my other band mate has one of these hot rod deluxe and its overheating and the signal is getting chopped up like a tremolo.
Is this a normal deluxe issue or is hers just screwed?
Hello mate. I've never had one I couldn't repair. Generally the most difficult part is if someone who didn't know what they were doing had a go at the repair first. Sounds like the typical low voltage supply problems as shown in this video.
Hello Brad. I have a Blues Deville. After I’ve been playing for a while it will cut out. I noticed that the second channel light turns off and on when this occurs. Could this be a cap issue? Also where did you get those pliers and what is the model of your desolder gun?
That fault is likely caused by heat damage to the low voltage power supply PCB traces, just like on the amp in this video. The caps may or may not be failing, but probably aren't the cause of this issue.
The pliers are Piergiacomi C-Type Preforming Tool PNG5000. Erem also make very nice but more expensive equivalents.
The desolder station is a Hakko 474 with an 815 handpiece.
Too bad amps are not like cars and a recall isn't ever issued. These Hot Rod amps all have this exact same issue. Someone explain to me why Fender doesn't build these right after all these years? It wouldn't be hard to do. They would be legendary amps if Fender only did this one simple trick!
Thanks for the video. My hot rod deville 212 IV started playing up yesterday....I first started hearing loud pops, but now I'll be playing for a few mins (guitar is plugged directly into input 1) and the volume just max's out even though it's on 1 volume for both master and normal, changing the volume knob on the guitar does nothing, the sound doesn't appear to be coming from the guitar. It's so loud that I get hit by a pressure wave and my ears are ringing. Not ideal, as you can imagine, my girlfriend (and the neighbours for that matter are not impressed)....Any ideas? It's still under warranty, but the company I bought it from is half way across Europe
My advice is don't buy amps from half way across Europe and expect warranty to be cost effective.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Wow, my advice is not to be rude to people on your own channel asking for advice. I guess your from NZ and just aren't aware how buying things works in the EU. Never mind, you can go back to your tinkering.
Chopsticking👍🏻👍🏻
Fucking love it🤪🤪
Hello, I've been using my BDRI 15 years with no problems until a week ago the reverb stopped working. The rest of the amp works correctly, just zero reverb. The reverb 12AX7 tube checked good and I swapped another good one in with no affect. Anyone have any ideas? They'd be greatly appreciated.
That's what techs are for.
Ask around for a trusted local technician.
Measuring the bias current with a signal present?!! You are adjusting the quiescent or IDLE current. The amp is not at idle if you're running a test tone through it.
The volume sounded lower than the camera gives credit for. I test idle with no signal and that's what I go with.
As I mentioned in the video, it's "safe". I just wanted to check that neither of the old valves were shorted or semi-shorted. They were replaced and the output bias set for the new output valves with no signal present.
Cool. Maybe reinforce to your amateur viewers that any signal at will give an inaccurate reading. I usually just pull the plug from the input. Good stuff, though.
@@philbillie Yeah, I should have. But when I throw the camera on myself, my IQ drops by half. HAHA!
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yes, the dreaded "Red Light Fever"
Negative voltage would be a polarity issue
hey brad, i have a weird issue with my deluxe II . Volume at 0 as sound . Drive sound actually. the more i push the volume toward 1 goes back to zero and past 1 functions normally.
I feels like the 0 volume was shifted at 1 , and there was a " negative volume " below zero.
Did you ever heard of that ? THis problem is actually no preventing me from playing at all , but i don't want to damage it.
second problem : more annoying . often in gigs / jams if the amp has been on for 2 or 3 hours and get warm, the volume might drops suddenly, and sounds become really " transistor like " and cold. Professionnals never saw any problem because they probably don't play the amp for 3 hours staigth before to see where is the problem.
You only have one problem. You need a better tech.
Question please. I've got one of these been in storage 10 years and I want to get it up and running again. Is there something special I need to do to make sure it works and doesn't blow up?
Plug it in and turn it on.
What I always do with amps that have been in storage for a while is starting them up “slowely” with a variac the 1st time.
What lead forming pliers are you using?
Piergiacomi PNG5000. The ones in the video, purchased about 5 years ago are nicely machined and seem to be discontinued.
The new ones of the same model number seem to be machined using a cheaper EDM process and they are rough, with sharp points at the kink on some specimens, which is a total no-no. It may lead to a nick in the component lead and failure due to fatigue. Not impressed.
One of the best sounding most UNRELIABLE amps ever made.
Fender went cheap. Had to replace tubes after 2 years. Same with my 68 twin reissue.
so i just bought a used fender hot rod i was wondering is there anything I should check right away on it? Or just play it until theres a problem?
If you want it to last 10-15 trouble free years of hard useage, take it to a tech for some upgrades and mitigation of heat issues, otherwise, if you can afford to have it fail at some point (ie: it's not your only gigging amp), you could run the gauntlet and hope for the best. I'd get it sorted now if it was me, though.
@@BradsGuitarGarage ok, the top does get pretty hot when playing but aside from that it looks nice atleast from the outside ha. Maybe ill try to find someone to look at it to make sure, thanks.
I can't believe that Fender can't come up with better low voltage power supply instead of 5W resistors and zener diodes
I jus found a fender blues deluxe reissue ...I can't get sound the channel doesn't switch,reverb doesn't work, tubes are new...can u fix it..an is it worth fixing?
That's the same issue as this one. Probably broken traces on the low voltage power supply. I can fix it if you live near Sydney Australia, otherwise I cannot.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I jus looked again an I see one of the connection between the second tube to circuit board is not solder in ..an I live in Brooklyn NY by the way.. and the video was helpful 👍
ya know, I'm pretty handy and can definitely do basic repairs, caps, tubes maybe broken boards and all that but I have this awesome Blues Deville 212 with n over drive channel issue. Im not sure if its the pot or something else. Sometimes it kinda works and sometimes not at all. (recently, not at all) how can I tell if its just the pot or something else, more serious and expensive to repair. I'm basically a poor man so I really can't afford to bring my shit to ANY repair shop, these days. Thanks
What do you mean by "kinda works/not at all"? Do you mean it won't switch to the overdrive channel, or if you switch to the overdrive channel, then there's no signal?
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the REply. Anyway, it WAS acting up like when you hit the OD channel switch it would come in blasting and if you touched the drive pot it would sometimes just cut out, altogether. I finally stopped procrastinating and disassembled it, cleaned the pot real good and resoldered any suspect looking spots. It's been fine since I put it back together, too. Really man, I appreciate you getting back to me on that. And I REALLY appreciate your videos. There's just SO many clowns on here. I think they just like the sound of their own voices, though. Lol. Oh, and I'm working on uploading a little video of an ORIGINAL Fender Princeton '66 that you might like. That amp is just UN-matched -imho- as far as tone. And it's practically silent, too!
Dropping 48V to 16V that way is just plain lazy designing. So they could not have bothered to spec a main transformer with a proper voltage for that circuit. Have you found a different supplier for those caps than Illinois Cap? Can't believe they used axial caps. With radials and snap ins you have way more supplier options.
I default to F&T now that Nichicon has ceased production of their VX series axials.
Yes, there really is no excuse for using axials these days.
You have a link to those pliers??
No, just google PNG5000.
The fender boards are the cheapest crappiest pcbs I have ever worked on.
how do you fix tube rattle? It will not stop and is so annoying
New valves. Hold them to stop them rattling one at a time to see which one it is.
I suggest avoiding JJ's, particularly their 6V6's and 6L6GC's until they resolve their rattle issues.
@@BradsGuitarGarage figured it was that, just wanted to be sure before I throw money at something I don't need
Some claim success with the fat rubber rings around them, but I've found them to have a limited effect if any.
Anyone else really caught off guard by that opening?
I hope I didn't freak you out too much!
what should I replace the R-97 resistor with ?
I assume you're talking about the footswitch dropper. If it's heat affected, replace with same resistance, slightly higher wattage, mounted above the board with ceramic standoffs to prevent the heat making it to the board and to have better airflow around the component.
"I say "he" because I think women are smarter than this" 😂😂
Someone's getting laid.
so much fibreglass and plastic!!!....i would never buy something like this!!...bit like repairing a guitar glued with epoxy...good work though!
SEPPO! Throw another shrimp on the barbie MATE! The term is VACUUM TUBE not VALVE! Which were invented by Seppos in the first place!!!
Yeah, just taking the piss, mate.
That video was like 5 years ago by the way. LOL!
No part 2?
Not for this particular amp mate, sorry.
I'll be doing a more thorough and higher quality video on this series soon, but in the meantime I have a shop to run.
Stay posted. In the meantime, check out Lyle @ Psionic Audio's videos on this series of amps.
His videos are a lot to live up to.
Biggest problem is that these are just junk. I have a Blues Deluxe, so I know ...
Stupid comment.
But I will say that I bought my Blues Deluxe NEW in 1994 ... It still works and sounds fantastic! I just didn't expect a computer under neath that cover ...
Hey I have hot rod deville 111 and has no volume on either channel on if plug cable into preamp in, can u please tell me wat could be the problems
You never finished the vid dude. After all that we didn't get to hear it. Thx anyway.
And we pay £700+ for these ???? Poor leo
Man, the more I see of these fender boards from the last 30 years up to todays shit, the more I want to steer clear of them. time to sell the blues junior and buy a hand wired amp. fuck these cheap ass boards where the traces and pads lift if you look at them wrong
So these amps are junk and definitely not made to last?
They can be made to last for around $300.
I’ve had mine for 12 years, never had a problem
Getting pissed at people working on their own stuff, Lol. Who do you think is watching this shit? Anyway are you in Perth because Ive f*cked my amp?
Haha, working on your own amp is fine if you know what to look out for.
I'll make an updated vid on this subject soon. This one is a bit raw to say the least.
I'm closer to Sydney, but go and see Grant at EAV. He's the man.
46730 view. #159-comment. Nov.-17-2023, thx 4 explaining as eye (understand), 0.002% of what any of this is😔
Terrible, terrible amps.
Can't argue with you there, buddy!
I just wish I did a better video all those years ago!