I have successfully planted these out side in feb. I have beautiful blooms in the summer. Everyone i have planted have survived. I have 7 of various colors. I buy one every Christmas.
You must definitely live in a warm climate to be able to plant your bulbs outside in February. I wish you could share a picture of your summer blooms. Thanks for your comments.
I can never throw mine away either - I have at least 50 waiting to be repotted. It's December 11; I got a late start this year. But I'll have beautiful blooms throughout the coldest and most dreary part of the winter!!
Thanks for sharing your plight. No matter, well usually, when you get bulbs replanted, you know that their hidden beauty is just a short time away. Are you in a zone that you can plant or grow them outside? Or do you keep them indoors year around. Thanks for watching the video and comment.
I bought two "boxed" amaryllis bulbs from a store a few years ago (maybe Walmart?) I purchased them around Thanksgiving that year and potted it up the way the box said to. For whatever reason it took _forever_ to grow and each finally sent up flower stalks by the _following summer._ This is now the third year it has flowered.. quite beautifully - and sometimes with two or three flower stalks - but it always is blooming in the summer! Right now (3rd week of June) they both just opened their big blood-red flowers. The bulbs are absolutely massive! Bigger than softballs. They are soooo healthy. But I don't know how to get them to bloom any other time but now! _(I'm not complaining!)_
@@SuccessfulGardens1 I grew them inside, as they were purchased around Thanksgiving (in NYS). Could not have grown them outside here in the North-East! It seemed like it took _forever_ for them to grow that first year - though l could see their "floral bud" trying to pop from each bulb. (I always open the boxes of such - to make sure the bulbs "show promise", and are not rotted or damaged) It took till the following late Spring/early Summer for both of them to finally bloom -- and that has now become "their normal" - no matter what. I'm not complaining -- as they are both very healthy (and fairly large size bulbs, too) . The first year they both put out 3 flower stalks. (2 at same time, then a 3rd one a bit later). Right now they are blooming on their 1st stalk. One has 3 flowers, the other has 2 flowers. Big, bright (dark) red -- and also has a few short leaves now, too. (The first year their 1st flower stalk had 4 flowers on each - and l think 3 flowers after that) An oddity, for sure!! Will keep you posted if l get more more floral stalks this year.
Yes, it’s a misconception that amaryllis blooms only at Christmas. They don’t! It’s forced blooming in Xmas time. They always bloom in summer time, as nature intended. Mine always bloom in summer. Really pretty.
OK Garry I live in zone nine so I pulled my Ameryllis in August but I take them out of the pots remove any remaining leaves dead or green green leaves, all the dirt and trim the roots and check bulb for disease/rot etc. . Then put them in a paper bag and put them in the the bottom of the refrigerator simulate Winter. Then they’re replanted the beginning of November. I just need to know what kind of fertilization stuff can be put on the medium size ball bulbs, so I can have giant bulbs.
I like to use a granulated organic fertilizer, either from Espoma or Happy Frog. Both have a bulb food. As for potted bulbs, a little goes along ways. Be diligent in how ofter you apply. Once the bulbs have stopped blooming and you have cut the flower stock off, fertilize once a month or every 6 weeks, until you stop watering them or pull them out of their pots. Good Luck and thanks for watching.
Thank you Garry I think maybe that’s where I went wrong. I only put a little bonemeal on the bulbs once during the season they were growing and before I pulled them to force dormancy
Nice video, thanks for sharing your experience. I am trying potting amaryllis this year too. I bought some different varieties and can't wait for the show 😍😅. Now my prior experience with Amaryllis was only to grow them outside in ground and here in zone 7b they are perennials. I feel like I will transplant most from pots in the ground in Spring.
Yes, however, i need to be more diligent in pruning back the leaves each year. It is funny how they act differently for every grower and growing conditions and then of course which variety of bulb.
Good question. They only need about 8 to 10 weeks of dry dormancy. So after they have bloomed, (late December to February maybe March) I water and fertilize ( fertilize once a month) them throughout the summer months. I stop watering them in late August allowing them to dry through Sept, Oct and early part of November. I then clean them up, repot if necessary and start watering and introducing to bright light mid-November.
I bought an Amaryllis bulb in Dec of 2023. It grew one bloom stalk with four flowers. It was in a plastic pot with no holes and I really did not like it at all so despite being warned not to I repotted it in April. Well, after I repotted it the leaves died and I thought that I had killed the whole thing. I just put the pot with the bulb in it away with my unused pots and ignored it. Then that December I thought that I saw some green coming out of the tip of the bulb. I was amazed because it had not been watered since that past April. I watered it and it began to grow like crazy. A few inches every day! Then when the leaves got to be almost 2 feet tall they began to fall over and break at the base! The bulb is not huge by any means. I don’t think that the opening can support those heavy leaves. It now has five leaves that are well over 2 feet tall. It has not grown a bloom stalk but I did not expect it to. However, I had to stake the leaves in order to keep them from flopping over completely and breaking off. The neck of the bulb is very narrow compared to the height and weight of the leaves. I do not know if this is a “normal” thing for Amaryllis leaves to do. I want try to get it to bloom later this year so right now the leaves are staked and I have a grow light over it. I don’t know what to do with it this spring. I hope the leaves will stop growing! I had to get a longer stake in order to get the leaves to stand up.
Don't give up hope, I have another dbl white currently in bloom. It seems that the dbl whites are the most resilient and bloom dependably every year. This one is definitely a late bloomer. Did you cut the flower stalk off and stick it in water?
@@SuccessfulGardens1yes, I have one growing outside all year long for years, and she got a few babies so I dig it out of ground and separate 3 babies last year and planted her in the pot. She grows happily andhas babies again and she and babies all bloomed in this spring all my neighbors like to see such beautiful many of big flowers blooming together and -agaiin bloomed again in this September and actually one of babies just finished bloom now. Do you want me to dig them out?
So, this amaryllis is going on its third year of growing. It’s planted at the depth it should be and a very healthy firm bulb. Jesé’s the problem, as it grows and sends up the flower stalk it begins to fall over. Last year it grew soooo tall and then the leaves/flower fell over and broke off. 😢. I have an amaryllis stake this year, but it still seems to want to fall over. What’s the fix gir this?
One of the frustrating thing about having such tall stalks. I, too, have a variety that grows so tall that they fall over and break or damage themselves. Mine is a double white, so the blossom is even heavier. I am glad that you are using a stake this time around, and there is really nothing that you can do to "shrink" the stalk, some varieties just grow taller than most. Good luck. Hoping that the stakes help.
Do you use a commercial soil? Or make your own? I noticed a lot of perlite in your repotting soil. I’ve read to use loam. I’ve been a gardener for many years, still don’t understand loamy soil! Have you done an episode on soils? I like your presentations, hands on approach! Thank you!
Hi! I bought amaryllis bulb online. I did not know I am supposed to soak them before planting. My problem is it has been 2 months now and there are only leaves, no flower. What should I do? Thank you.
Pre watering isn't always necessary. I find it more reassuring, as like I am doing all of the right steps in the process. Now as for not budding or leafing out. Make sure that the soil is moist, not swampy wet, but moist. And make sure that it has the best light possible and in a warm area. All of my bulbs don't bloom or leaf out at the same time. There has been times that they have gone a couple of months before starting. Just make sure that your bulb remains firm to the touch. Good luck!
This particular glass vase, I reused from a floral arrangement. However, similar vases can be purchased at hobby stores or in the floral department of other stores.
Did the one in the vase grow? At my old job we told customers to put water to the bottom of the bulb to encourage new root growth, then just the roots in water.
@@SuccessfulGardens1 Oh wow. I watched that video after and wasn't sure if it was the same one. Beautiful variety. So did you keep the bulb partly in water the whole time? I would have thought it would rot.
@Gemma F I only allowed enough water to come to the top of rocks / bottom of bulb. That way as roots developed they had a water source, but allowing the basal plate to absorb enough water.
After blooming, the next time you add water to the vase, you can add a 1/4 fertilizer solution, water soluable fertilizer only. (If the direction calls for 1 TBLS of ws fertilizer per gallon of water, then add 1/4 TBLS to gallon of water and then add to the vase.) I normally remove the bulb from the water vase and plant into a pot or outside in the flower bed if you live in the appropriate zones. This takes some manuvering of the roots, but can be done. Then fertilize regularly during the non blooming months.
Perhaps you or someone tuned in can help me. For years, over 20, I have been growing many bulbs in the garden. Until this winter (zone 9), they had never been damaged by freezes. I had planned to dig them all out and pot them and bring them indoors. Am I wrong now in thinking that I should leave them as is. Here in the past, they have always bloomed in the spring. Once no more freezes, new growth and flower stems will start to appear? Dormancy from January to March?
Has the freeze damage already happened? And to what extent? Where they have survived in years past, I would assume they will continue. And how long or severe was the freeze. Usually it will take long exposure to actually damage in the soil.
I had 18 in huge pots and about 10 in the ground when the polar vortex hit central Texas. I couldn't bring in those pots and they all froze dead. The ones in the ground all survived, came up and bloomed in zone 8. Now replanting in my big pots with 13 new bulbs but putting each bulb in 1 gal. Cloth pots that I can lift out if needed. I'm just north of San Antonio, Texas. I would just leave your bulbs in the ground. The storm mine endured put 8 inches of snow on the ground, lows to 6-8 degrees, temps below freezing for 5 solid days. All these bulbs had naturalized; they weren't new ones. The video is excellent. I've never tried to force mine. Happy when they bloom in spring.
Not sure what you are asking, but I filmed this video on the 11th of November. To report on the growth status of the bulbs, I wish I could attach pictures, but the dbl white flower is blooming and the Glee variety which I planted in the glass vase, is sending up 2 flower stalks, but is only about 9 inches tall.
I do like your video about Amaryllus bulbs saving for a next blooming. My experiance with Amaryllus bulbs is , you can force them to bloom at least twice a year. They can stand indoors in a window spot in full sunlight at shout-side, warm above a radiator. Watering when grow or blooming once the ground gets dry out. After blooming, I did cut the flower stem and let grow the leaves for severall months. The bulbs will grow back from beïng smaller after blooming. Next I stop watering till ground is dry out. Next I cut the green leaves, the bulb stands there dry in pot on the same spot. So no cool period. After a while the bulb starts growing a new flower but. This might be in 4 till 6 weeks after the cutting. Next when the but opens and starts flowering, a litle watering after letting dry out the ground. So the cyclus starts over again. (excuse me for my language, I am from the Netherlands) Succes with your video's. Your pasion for plants helps others in there plant hobby. Greeting, Marcel.
Thank you for sharing your growing experiences. I love to hear how others get their flowers to grow. And especially with you being from the Netherlands. My bucket list is to make it to Keukenhof someday.
I have about 15 bulbs. They bloomed beautifully during the holidays and still had flower buds coming up. As January progressed, the buds began to rot. They were deformed and the stalks were short. They are in a sunny window and I’ve tried not to water them too much. What could be the cause?
I am not sure, unless they were exposed to some cold weather. In rare cases bulbs can rot from a bactia / fungus. But I have never had that problem so I am not sure how to deal with it. If you have to throw them out, do not save the any of the soil and definatly wash/bleach the pot if you are going to reuse it.
On newly planted bulbs, only water once until the stem or leaves start to emerge. Then water on a regular basis, keeping the soil damp but not sopping wet.
If you find rotting on the top, cut it off to reduce the available medium to fungus or mold. Fungus need food to grow. If you take off the rot the bulb has a chance to fight it off itself. It’s just like human medicine. It’s called incision and drainage, lol.
But it didn't rot. If you watch the video that I made on the after care, you will see the bulb, after it bloomed, I then removed the bulb from the water and then plant it in a pot with soil.
Thanks for the planting tips
My pleasure hopefuly it helps. Thanks for watching.
Thank for you sharing.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
It’s cool you plant in a basket. We have a ton of baskets that I don’t know what to do with. May be I’ll try it. Cool tip.
Glad it helped with an idea...
I have successfully planted these out side in feb. I have beautiful blooms in the summer. Everyone i have planted have survived. I have 7 of various colors. I buy one every Christmas.
You must definitely live in a warm climate to be able to plant your bulbs outside in February. I wish you could share a picture of your summer blooms. Thanks for your comments.
I can never throw mine away either - I have at least 50 waiting to be repotted. It's December 11; I got a late start this year. But I'll have beautiful blooms throughout the coldest and most dreary part of the winter!!
Thanks for sharing your plight. No matter, well usually, when you get bulbs replanted, you know that their hidden beauty is just a short time away. Are you in a zone that you can plant or grow them outside? Or do you keep them indoors year around.
Thanks for watching the video and comment.
Vorrei sapere il vostro indirizzo postale e se vendete i bulbi di Amarilli in Italia grazie😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤
I bought two "boxed" amaryllis bulbs from a store a few years ago (maybe Walmart?) I purchased them around Thanksgiving that year and potted it up the way the box said to. For whatever reason it took _forever_ to grow and each finally sent up flower stalks by the _following summer._
This is now the third year it has flowered.. quite beautifully - and sometimes with two or three flower stalks - but it always is blooming in the summer!
Right now (3rd week of June) they both just opened their big blood-red flowers.
The bulbs are absolutely massive! Bigger than softballs. They are soooo healthy. But I don't know how to get them to bloom any other time but now! _(I'm not complaining!)_
Do you grow them outside? It is interesting that they will only bloom during the summer.
@@SuccessfulGardens1
I grew them inside, as they were purchased around Thanksgiving (in NYS). Could not have grown them outside here in the North-East!
It seemed like it took _forever_ for them to grow that first year - though l could see their "floral bud" trying to pop from each bulb. (I always open the boxes of such - to make sure the bulbs "show promise", and are not rotted or damaged)
It took till the following late Spring/early Summer for both of them to finally bloom -- and that has now become "their normal" - no matter what. I'm not complaining -- as they are both very healthy (and fairly large size bulbs, too) .
The first year they both put out 3 flower stalks. (2 at same time, then a 3rd one a bit later).
Right now they are blooming on their 1st stalk. One has 3 flowers, the other has 2 flowers. Big, bright (dark) red -- and also has a few short leaves now, too.
(The first year their 1st flower stalk had 4 flowers on each - and l think 3 flowers after that)
An oddity, for sure!!
Will keep you posted if l get more more floral stalks this year.
Yes, it’s a misconception that amaryllis blooms only at Christmas. They don’t! It’s forced blooming in Xmas time. They always bloom in summer time, as nature intended. Mine always bloom in summer. Really pretty.
OK Garry I live in zone nine so I pulled my Ameryllis in August but I take them out of the pots remove any remaining leaves dead or green green leaves, all the dirt and trim the roots and check bulb for disease/rot etc. . Then put them in a paper bag and put them in the the bottom of the refrigerator simulate Winter.
Then they’re replanted the beginning of November. I just need to know what kind of fertilization stuff can be put on the medium size ball bulbs, so I can have giant bulbs.
I like to use a granulated organic fertilizer, either from Espoma or Happy Frog. Both have a bulb food. As for potted bulbs, a little goes along ways. Be diligent in how ofter you apply. Once the bulbs have stopped blooming and you have cut the flower stock off, fertilize once a month or every 6 weeks, until you stop watering them or pull them out of their pots.
Good Luck and thanks for watching.
Thank you Garry I think maybe that’s where I went wrong. I only put a little bonemeal on the bulbs once during the season they were growing and before I pulled them to force dormancy
Nice video, thanks for sharing your experience. I am trying potting amaryllis this year too. I bought some different varieties and can't wait for the show 😍😅.
Now my prior experience with Amaryllis was only to grow them outside in ground and here in zone 7b they are perennials. I feel like I will transplant most from pots in the ground in Spring.
Good luck with your growing.
Did you give these 18 bulbs which you had just repotted on this episode, the 6-8 weeks in a dark, cool place before repotting?
Yes, however, i need to be more diligent in pruning back the leaves each year. It is funny how they act differently for every grower and growing conditions and then of course which variety of bulb.
how do you tell when to stop watering/fertilizing and force them into dormancy?
Good question. They only need about 8 to 10 weeks of dry dormancy. So after they have bloomed, (late December to February maybe March) I water and fertilize ( fertilize once a month) them throughout the summer months. I stop watering them in late August allowing them to dry through Sept, Oct and early part of November. I then clean them up, repot if necessary and start watering and introducing to bright light mid-November.
@@SuccessfulGardens1 so they are in full growth mode when you stop watering?
I bought an Amaryllis bulb in Dec of 2023. It grew one bloom stalk with four flowers. It was in a plastic pot with no holes and I really did not like it at all so despite being warned not to I repotted it in April. Well, after I repotted it the leaves died and I thought that I had killed the whole thing. I just put the pot with the bulb in it away with my unused pots and ignored it. Then that December I thought that I saw some green coming out of the tip of the bulb. I was amazed because it had not been watered since that past April. I watered it and it began to grow like crazy. A few inches every day! Then when the leaves got to be almost 2 feet tall they began to fall over and break at the base! The bulb is not huge by any means. I don’t think that the opening can support those heavy leaves. It now has five leaves that are well over 2 feet tall. It has not grown a bloom stalk but I did not expect it to. However, I had to stake the leaves in order to keep them from flopping over completely and breaking off. The neck of the bulb is very narrow compared to the height and weight of the leaves. I do not know if this is a “normal” thing for Amaryllis leaves to do.
I want try to get it to bloom later this year so right now the leaves are staked and I have a grow light over it. I don’t know what to do with it this spring. I hope the leaves will stop growing! I had to get a longer stake in order to get the leaves to stand up.
I love it when a plant "out grows" my expectations. Staking is just fine, I have to do it more often than not.
Thankyou so much .🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for watching.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Very helpful video. I had a beautiful double white. It feel over and broke all the flowers. I nearly cried 😢.
Don't give up hope, I have another dbl white currently in bloom. It seems that the dbl whites are the most resilient and bloom dependably every year. This one is definitely a late bloomer. Did you cut the flower stalk off and stick it in water?
My amaryllis have long leaves. Can I leave them in the soil all year round? Will they bloom again at some point?
It all depends on where you live. Growing zone 8 is iffy but 9 and 10, you shouldn't have any problems.
Just started one this week. It looks very healthy. Thanks for the tips. Zone7b - Franklinton, North Carolina
Good luck. What color or variety did you get?
😍😍😍muy hermosas me facinan
Do I need to dormancy my amaryllis living in Southern California?
Yes Amaryllis need to go through a "dry" dormancy the best they can. I am assuming you leave yours out year around?
@@SuccessfulGardens1yes, I have one growing outside all year long for years, and she got a few babies so I dig it out of ground and separate 3 babies last year and planted her in the pot. She grows happily andhas babies again and she and babies all bloomed in this spring all my neighbors like to see such beautiful many of big flowers blooming together and -agaiin bloomed again in this September and actually one of babies just finished bloom now. Do you want me to dig them out?
So, this amaryllis is going on its third year of growing. It’s planted at the depth it should be and a very healthy firm bulb. Jesé’s the problem, as it grows and sends up the flower stalk it begins to fall over. Last year it grew soooo tall and then the leaves/flower fell over and broke off. 😢. I have an amaryllis stake this year, but it still seems to want to fall over. What’s the fix gir this?
One of the frustrating thing about having such tall stalks. I, too, have a variety that grows so tall that they fall over and break or damage themselves. Mine is a double white, so the blossom is even heavier.
I am glad that you are using a stake this time around, and there is really nothing that you can do to "shrink" the stalk, some varieties just grow taller than most. Good luck. Hoping that the stakes help.
Do you use a commercial soil? Or make your own? I noticed a lot of perlite in your repotting soil. I’ve read to use loam. I’ve been a gardener for many years, still don’t understand loamy soil! Have you done an episode on soils?
I like your presentations, hands on approach!
Thank you!
I haven't done one on soils, however, i have been thinking/needing to do one. Thanks for the reminder/suggestion and thank you for watching.
Hi! I bought amaryllis bulb online. I did not
know I am supposed to soak them before planting.
My problem is it has been 2 months now and there are only leaves, no flower.
What should I do?
Thank you.
Pre watering isn't always necessary. I find it more reassuring, as like I am doing all of the right steps in the process. Now as for not budding or leafing out. Make sure that the soil is moist, not swampy wet, but moist. And make sure that it has the best light possible and in a warm area. All of my bulbs don't bloom or leaf out at the same time. There has been times that they have gone a couple of months before starting. Just make sure that your bulb remains firm to the touch. Good luck!
Where do you buy glass vase to grow your Amaryllis ?
This particular glass vase, I reused from a floral arrangement. However, similar vases can be purchased at hobby stores or in the floral department of other stores.
Did the one in the vase grow? At my old job we told customers to put water to the bottom of the bulb to encourage new root growth, then just the roots in water.
It did. In fact it grew 3 flower stalks. I show it in the my video about amaryllis after care. Thanks for asking.
@@SuccessfulGardens1 Oh wow. I watched that video after and wasn't sure if it was the same one. Beautiful variety. So did you keep the bulb partly in water the whole time? I would have thought it would rot.
@Gemma F I only allowed enough water to come to the top of rocks / bottom of bulb. That way as roots developed they had a water source, but allowing the basal plate to absorb enough water.
How does the amaryllis get nutrients when kept with water n mables
After blooming, the next time you add water to the vase, you can add a 1/4 fertilizer solution, water soluable fertilizer only. (If the direction calls for 1 TBLS of ws fertilizer per gallon of water, then add 1/4 TBLS to gallon of water and then add to the vase.)
I normally remove the bulb from the water vase and plant into a pot or outside in the flower bed if you live in the appropriate zones. This takes some manuvering of the roots, but can be done. Then fertilize regularly during the non blooming months.
Perhaps you or someone tuned in can help me. For years, over 20, I have been growing many bulbs in the garden.
Until this winter (zone 9), they had never been damaged by freezes.
I had planned to dig them all out and pot them and bring them indoors.
Am I wrong now in thinking that I should leave them as is. Here in the past, they have always bloomed in the spring.
Once no more freezes, new growth and flower stems will start to appear?
Dormancy from January to March?
Has the freeze damage already happened? And to what extent? Where they have survived in years past, I would assume they will continue. And how long or severe was the freeze. Usually it will take long exposure to actually damage in the soil.
I had 18 in huge pots and about 10 in the ground when the polar vortex hit central Texas. I couldn't bring in those pots and they all froze dead. The ones in the ground all survived, came up and bloomed in zone 8. Now replanting in my big pots with 13 new bulbs but putting each bulb in 1 gal. Cloth pots that I can lift out if needed. I'm just north of San Antonio, Texas. I would just leave your bulbs in the ground. The storm mine endured put 8 inches of snow on the ground, lows to 6-8 degrees, temps below freezing for 5 solid days. All these bulbs had naturalized; they weren't new ones. The video is excellent. I've never tried to force mine. Happy when they bloom in spring.
Nov 14th? Still another week to go, right?
Not sure what you are asking, but I filmed this video on the 11th of November. To report on the growth status of the bulbs, I wish I could attach pictures, but the dbl white flower is blooming and the Glee variety which I planted in the glass vase, is sending up 2 flower stalks, but is only about 9 inches tall.
I do like your video about Amaryllus bulbs saving for a next blooming. My experiance with Amaryllus bulbs is , you can force them to bloom at least twice a year. They can stand indoors in a window spot in full sunlight at shout-side, warm above a radiator. Watering when grow or blooming once the ground gets dry out. After blooming, I did cut the flower stem and let grow the leaves for severall months. The bulbs will grow back from beïng smaller after blooming. Next I stop watering till ground is dry out. Next I cut the green leaves, the bulb stands there dry in pot on the same spot. So no cool period. After a while the bulb starts growing a new flower but. This might be in 4 till 6 weeks after the cutting. Next when the but opens and starts flowering, a litle watering after letting dry out the ground. So the cyclus starts over again. (excuse me for my language, I am from the Netherlands) Succes with your video's. Your pasion for plants helps others in there plant hobby. Greeting, Marcel.
Thank you for sharing your growing experiences. I love to hear how others get their flowers to grow. And especially with you being from the Netherlands. My bucket list is to make it to Keukenhof someday.
@@SuccessfulGardens1 Aw.... Keukenhof is on my list too :)
I have about 15 bulbs. They bloomed beautifully during the holidays and still had flower buds coming up. As January progressed, the buds began to rot. They were deformed and the stalks were short. They are in a sunny window and I’ve tried not to water them too much. What could be the cause?
I am not sure, unless they were exposed to some cold weather. In rare cases bulbs can rot from a bactia / fungus. But I have never had that problem so I am not sure how to deal with it. If you have to throw them out, do not save the any of the soil and definatly wash/bleach the pot if you are going to reuse it.
How often do you water your Amaryllis ?
On newly planted bulbs, only water once until the stem or leaves start to emerge. Then water on a regular basis, keeping the soil damp but not sopping wet.
If you find rotting on the top, cut it off to reduce the available medium to fungus or mold. Fungus need food to grow. If you take off the rot the bulb has a chance to fight it off itself. It’s just like human medicine. It’s called incision and drainage, lol.
Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching too!
I think you r going to rot your bulb!!!
But it didn't rot. If you watch the video that I made on the after care, you will see the bulb, after it bloomed, I then removed the bulb from the water and then plant it in a pot with soil.