BEST VIDEO EVER!!! THANK YOU ADAM!!! I had this problem for over a year and pawned it off because the local garage door service company wanted $80 to fix it! I will be fixing this tomorrow myself! You rock adam! update*** I did exactly as Adam showed in his video and this completely solved my garage door problem. I had a local garage door company come out and tell me it would be $85 for the technician and $80 for a brand new circuit board. Instead I re-soldered the new copper wire, and everything was working in no time. I could see how cheaply made everything is on the inside of these garage door openers.
It worked. Sensor with green light on, but flickering just a little bit - I readjusted until solid green light, and now it works no more problem. Thank you.
I had the same problem, and I fixed it by stripping off a couple of inches length of the plastic layer from the antenna wire, and then the remote works like a charm from a far distance away.
Thanks for the info. My door wasn't opening with any of the remotes and the lights flashed twice. Someone pushed the lock button. I pressed it, after reading the comments in this blog and bada boom bada bing it worked!!!
I agree with Margaret. My older Sears garage door opener was very inconsistent going up and down after I replaced the bulbs with led. Changed them back to incandescent and it works fine. Don’t know why this happens but try it if you’re having trouble.
👍 Seriously, the best parts of this video: 1. " I don't know." - so much better to just admit it! 2. "I screwed up reattaching the board." Two things DIY's can QUICKLY relate to!
Matt, I just used a heavier gauge (thicker) wire than the original. Also I put on a longer length. Just use copper. Most wire is made of copper anyway.
+AdamDIY I noticed my problem started when i put an LED bulb in as a replacement bulb - went back to standard bul and all is good - but great video Adam
+AdamDIY Might've been two problems, don't assume the antenna wire was OK just because you had to fix solder 8 months later. I replaced the antenna on my dad's same system (exactly same as yours).. The solder joints in that location looked OK, but there were two others that looked funny to the naked eye (I don't have a microscope)... I reheated them plus a few others. So far so good.
Trimmed about a half inch of the plastic coating off the sensor wire and everything back to normal. Thanks for the vid and comments to help me fix the problem!
Ok, I did everything else (checked solder joints, capacitors, etc.) then soldered in a new bigger, longer wire, put all back together, and no change. I already have the Die Hard incandescent Garage Opener bulbs. Had to try it all! Still 5-8 ft is all the distance I can get. Of course the remote keypad also stopped working. Will keep searching. If noting obvious, then a new circuit board or new opener is up next. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for this great video. Just wanted to add one more thing. We tried all the suggestions here and nothing worked. We even replaced the whole GDO (had planned ahead and bought one on sale a couple of years ago) but still had problem. We called the 800 number for the GDO (Craftsman) and he suggested we shut down the breakers to the house to see if we could isolate the problem. As we did each breaker one by one, we found that a GCFI in the garage was causing the problem. The GDO was not connected to this GCFI but evidently it was blocking the signal from our remotes and from the keypad. We now have a working GDO!!!
Wow, that is unbelievable! Who would have thought? Thank you so much for letting me and everyone else reading the comments know. I'll look into that, it sounds interesting.
Wow Thanks a lot, ur method really work I have an outlet with GCFI which block the intefere the signal and I just push the button to reset and now my garage work like a charm!
You were really lucky that the antenna wire was the problem. It is usually a faulty wireless door chime button (stuck in the on position) that causes signal interference. With both running on the same frequency the motor is unable to read the encoding in the signal from your handset unless you are really close. I encounter this problem often and found a signal strength meter is useful in tracking down the cause of the interference.
That CFL bulb will also affect that circuit board and cause your signal to get weak. If you look on the back of that circuit board, only the incandescent bulbs belong in the older liftmaster openers. The new newer openers can accept the CFL bulbs. This should help unless it already damaged the board. Hope this helps.
Hey guys, I just had this problem today! I have two remotes, one outside wall mount and two cars with the remote integrated. When I came back none were working. The door would close by remote but not open! I read one of the comments about LED lights and I realised I bought a humidifier with a LED night light which I put in my bedroom right above the garage. This sounds crazy but when I turned off the LED light, everything started working again. My guess is that the LED stops the signal. Hope it works for you.
With a simple continuity check, you would have likely found the original wire was still connected. I often found, just adding 6 more inches of any light weight wire to an antenna system like this cures the problem. Nice video, good job!
Thanks I'll try this. I have the same product AND the same exact problem! Open garage door? Fine. Closed? Problem...unless you click the button almost against the door. I may try this method.
I just found out that the lock button on the garage door opener, located on the wall was activated, causing the remote controls to not work. Fixed it with a simple click of a button.
Replaced bulbs with the Genie bulbs. I have an extension wire on my Genie Intellicode GDO. Worked for a while, but now it will not work unless the remove is within 5 feet of the antenna.
Yes! And I am glad you asked. I just uploaded a new video. th-cam.com/video/I_yzesvN8AI/w-d-xo.html I found the real source of the problem today. It was not the wire, but replacing the wire did help it to work for a bit.
Hi Adam, I have a Raynor Flitestar Garage Door Opener. The operator runs from the push button on the wall but not from the remote radio control. My codes are the same, the battery was replaced and the exterior Radio Receiver has electricity feeding it at about 25 volts. The radio receiver clicks every time I push the remote like it is receiving a signal but the door will not open. Is this a common problem? Should I just buy a new residential logic board?
So you hear a relay click on the board? And absolutely no movement in the door? It could be several things on the board from a bad connection to bad capacitors or other parts. I would first take a look at the wired connections and then inspect the board. Many times you will see visual clues.
I have this issue, and it escalated very quickly, when you use the remote, you hear one long beep followed by three short beeps! Anyone else have the same beeping pattern? Any I have to try the button many times to finally open. And then it took more and more presses to finally open. Forgot to mention the beeping started going off a lot and randomly. Replaced battery and still no improvement, reset power from the circuit breaker and beeping didn't stop, Removed the panel that's beeping from the wall and tried to open and nothing. With panel still off I used the program button on the overhead unit and it seam like the remote refused to pair so I put the panel back on the wall and continue to use the program button on the overhead unit and it paired with the remote. Forgot to mention the learn button didn't blink properly for pairing, yellow light stay solid while red light blink. But after doing this the remote started working and all the crazy beeping no longer happens with remote use or randomly. But while testing the now working situation, it started to become intermittent, then I had to be closer, then closer again to the point if your three inches away from the remote wire it will Not open but two inches away from the remote wire and it will open. Keep in mind new battery. Does anyone share any part of my same experience with beeping or rapid progression of failure, etc. at the time of this Comment it's still not working correctly, any advice?!?
are there a et of DIP switches in the motor housing so I can see if they match up with the DIP switches on my remote. I dropped the remote, it opened up and maybe in handling It I changed the DIP settings. If there are DIP switches on the motor, where are they and how do I get to them. I removed the light cover and there is nothing around there. Thanks
The one thing I've failed to see anybody comment about is have they checked their system for 24 volts? The transformers get weak over time and start putting out half of their capacity. First thing you need to check is this, cause the radio signals then get weak and won't activate the contactor/relay. Sure you can extend the antenna, but I don't believe it's a long term solution.
I have power to my lift master but the remote and the unit on the wall don't work. All wire connections are good. one thing I can't fix is that the sensors do not light up. I think this is the problem but no matter how I position them they do not work. How could I solve this problem? Thanks
Hi Adam, I just installed a Mastercraft opener and accidentally broke off the travel-adjustment screw that determines the length of travel for the downward position of the door. the screw shaft has disappeared into the housing. If I can get the housing off, do you think there is a way to fix it?
+Jeff Matity One trick is to melt the end of a standard cheap Bic pen with a lighter and shove it on the part that you want to turn. The melting plastic will take the shape of the broken part and then quickly cool. You may now be able to use the pen as a driver. That is a trick I sometimes use when I am desperate or have a special security screw that I need to remove. As far as replacement screw parts, I don't know. I never had to deal with something like that. If I had to guess, I would say no, you likely wont find any replacement parts for that.
My problem is the garage door will not close with either my handheld remote or the vehicle remote while the light is on. (4 1/2 minutes). Th wall unit works all of the time and even if stand right underneath the antenna the remote will not work until the light cycle ends. Chamberland tells me that I can not disable the light cycle on this older model. My other door which is the same model works every time with either remote. Any ideas on how to fix this/?
I have the same problem, when I get home I'll change the led bulb and see if that works. However, I have 2 montion sensors and one has a green light and the other has a yellow light, thought that had something to do with it.
really cool, but more details are wanted. my garage just not work,there's no response after click the button on remoter. but bulb mount on the opener can be switch on, no idea, what happened. how do you check those circuit things ? any suggestions are welcome.
Had very similar symptoms. Remote erratic. Would open, but not close w/ remote. Only getting worse. Tried the solder trick and the smack to the head, but still had the same results. Re-programmed 2 remotes (w/ new batts.) and still no joy. Saw another vid. (some bearded Sears guy I think) that mentioned wifi cameras causing rf interference. Well, I do have a wifi ('smarthome' outdoor HD) camera mounted outside to watch the driveway. I rebooted the power supply to the camera and now both remotes seem to have the original range and have been error free for 2 days. Let's hope that fixed my issue. Will advise.
Yes there are so many rf signals in the air now that it is bound to cause trouble. I also suspect some wifi thermometers may be causing trouble. Yes, please keep us updated.
I had the same problem and the fix was simple but you better follow my instructions completely because the fix can be dangerous if done wrong. Here is the important first step: UNPLUG THE GARAGE DOOR OPENER FROM THE OUTLET FIRST!!! If you don't you will be in for a nasty shock. Literally. Second step use a tool with some sort of hook end to lift the metal at the bottom of the bulb socket so it makes contact with the bottom of the bulb. It worked for me. Yours may have a different problem. Again, please don't stick things in socket that are plugged in.
Suddenly none of my garage door remotes were working. Before you start pulling things apart, check that you didn't inadvertently hit the "lock" button on the control panel. That's what I had done. I hit the lock button again and everything was back to normal.
Hi Adam, I have a Liftmaster and I'm replacing one of my remotes as its not working. I bought the universal Chamberlain remote from Home Depot. I think I've programmed it correctly and it opens the garage fine, but does not close. Every single time I press the remote to close the garage, the Liftmaster light blinks 9-10 times. Please help.
I have this issue, and it escalated very quickly, when you use the remote, you hear one long beep followed by three short beeps! Anyone else have the same beeping pattern? Any I have to try the button many times to finally open. And then it took more and more presses to finally open. Forgot to mention the beeping started going off a lot and randomly. Replaced battery and still no improvement, reset power from the circuit breaker and beeping didn't stop, Removed the panel that's beeping from the wall and tried to open and nothing. With panel still off I used the program button on the overhead unit and it seam like the remote refused to pair so I put the panel back on the wall and continue to use the program button on the overhead unit and it paired with the remote. Forgot to mention the learn button didn't blink properly for pairing, yellow light stay solid while red light blink. But after doing this the remote started working and all the crazy beeping no longer happens with remote use or randomly. But while testing the now working situation, it started to become intermittent, then I had to be closer, then closer again to the point if your three inches away from the remote wire it will Not open but two inches away from the remote wire and it will open. Keep in mind new battery. Does anyone share any part of my same experience with beeping or rapid progression of failure, etc. at the time of this Comment it's still not working correctly, any advice?!?
Here's a hint I had same problem , Dont use LED lights in Door opener they are not capatable with mother board , I put in incadesant bulbs and opener works great 200 feet away with door closed.
Thank you for posting this. I changed a bulb yesterday and all my remotes were only working some of the time. Spent a half hour trying to re program then looked at this video and comments.
Yes, the light usually runs on a timer unless you turn them on manually. But it sounds like your bulbs may be causing interference. What type do you have? Try regular old incandescents.
My garage door works mannually before, after programming the remote, it works the first time with remote. Then garage door only open and closed one foot. I replaced the circuit board, still same thing. Now even mannually, only go up and down one foot.
Jane zheng Did you do the balance test? Something may be wrong with the track or the Torsion Spring could be broken. I made another video that address that problem and many others.
DONT install leds light in that motor. I have 28 leds to light the garage. they must be off if i want to remote open the door. If the lights are on, i must put the remote in six feet from the motor for him to operate. Installed a wire to the antenna and now that thing open from at least 100 meters.
I have that problem with one of my cars only what can cause this? The other one works but only from the driveway. I took off the l.e.d. light bulbs, because i heard they can cause it to not work.
It's the LED light bulb giving you interference. Just happened to us! Stupid!! Wouldn't go down (because the light was on) but worked fine when opening the door.
I'm 7 years work in the garage door industry and never face this type of problem. 95% of the times that garage door remote isn't working is due to the battery contacts that loosing their gripe on the battery edges
Which battery and what edges? Are you talking about faulty remotes? What if all of them occasionally stop working? Looks like 90% of time it's not a battery but radio interference.
I have this same problem, with the same garage door opener. I replaced the whole backside of the garage door opener, and the problem still exists. I've researched this on the internet, and there are a TON of people with the exact same problem. Chamberlain just says "your mother board is faulty" as a simple solution, but thats not always the case. People are probably not telling you their issues. Just look around, everyone describes the same problem in nearly the same way. I think its a design flaw somewhere. Maybe they need to use a more precise frequency or something.
I used an ICStation one button remote control for $10. www.icstation.com/channel-wireless-remote-control-relay-module-315mhz-p-3201.html Wired the input across the 12v on the PCB. The output just wired across the contacts that the garage door wall switch runs to. Works great.
BEST VIDEO EVER!!! THANK YOU ADAM!!! I had this problem for over a year and pawned it off because the local garage door service company wanted $80 to fix it! I will be fixing this tomorrow myself! You rock adam!
update*** I did exactly as Adam showed in his video and this completely solved my garage door problem. I had a local garage door company come out and tell me it would be $85 for the technician and $80 for a brand new circuit board. Instead I re-soldered the new copper wire, and everything was working in no time. I could see how cheaply made everything is on the inside of these garage door openers.
It worked. Sensor with green light on, but flickering just a little bit - I readjusted until solid green light, and now it works no more problem. Thank you.
I had the same problem, and I fixed it by stripping off a couple of inches length of the plastic layer from the antenna wire, and then the remote works like a charm from a far distance away.
Thanks for the info. My door wasn't opening with any of the remotes and the lights flashed twice. Someone pushed the lock button. I pressed it, after reading the comments in this blog and bada boom bada bing it worked!!!
I agree with Margaret. My older Sears garage door opener was very inconsistent going up and down after I replaced the bulbs with led. Changed them back to incandescent and it works fine. Don’t know why this happens but try it if you’re having trouble.
👍
Seriously, the best parts of this video:
1. " I don't know." - so much better to just admit it!
2. "I screwed up reattaching the board."
Two things DIY's can QUICKLY relate to!
Matt, I just used a heavier gauge (thicker) wire than the original. Also I put on a longer length. Just use copper. Most wire is made of copper anyway.
+AdamDIY I noticed my problem started when i put an LED bulb in as a replacement bulb - went back to standard bul and all is good - but great video Adam
+AdamDIY Might've been two problems, don't assume the antenna wire was OK just because you had to fix solder 8 months later. I replaced the antenna on my dad's same system (exactly same as yours).. The solder joints in that location looked OK, but there were two others that looked funny to the naked eye (I don't have a microscope)... I reheated them plus a few others. So far so good.
Trimmed about a half inch of the plastic coating off the sensor wire and everything back to normal. Thanks for the vid and comments to help me fix the problem!
Ok, I did everything else (checked solder joints, capacitors, etc.) then soldered in a new bigger, longer wire, put all back together, and no change. I already have the Die Hard incandescent Garage Opener bulbs. Had to try it all! Still 5-8 ft is all the distance I can get. Of course the remote keypad also stopped working. Will keep searching. If noting obvious, then a new circuit board or new opener is up next. Thanks for this video!
Very helpful to review why my new garage door remote is erratic. Seen in London, UK. Thanks.
Thanks for this great video. Just wanted to add one more thing. We tried all the suggestions here and nothing worked. We even replaced the whole GDO (had planned ahead and bought one on sale a couple of years ago) but still had problem. We called the 800 number for the GDO (Craftsman) and he suggested we shut down the breakers to the house to see if we could isolate the problem. As we did each breaker one by one, we found that a GCFI in the garage was causing the problem. The GDO was not connected to this GCFI but evidently it was blocking the signal from our remotes and from the keypad. We now have a working GDO!!!
Wow, that is unbelievable! Who would have thought? Thank you so much for letting me and everyone else reading the comments know. I'll look into that, it sounds interesting.
Wow Thanks a lot, ur method really work I have an outlet with GCFI which block the intefere the signal and I just push the button to reset and now my garage work like a charm!
You were really lucky that the antenna wire was the problem. It is usually a faulty wireless door chime button (stuck in the on position) that causes signal interference.
With both running on the same frequency the motor is unable to read the encoding in the signal from your handset unless you are really close.
I encounter this problem often and found a signal strength meter is useful in tracking down the cause of the interference.
Thanks for the video on the fix. I followed it exactly and now I am happy to say I have a fine working garage door.
That CFL bulb will also affect that circuit board and cause your signal to get weak. If you look on the back of that circuit board, only the incandescent bulbs belong in the older liftmaster openers. The new newer openers can accept the CFL bulbs. This should help unless it already damaged the board. Hope this helps.
I had also replaced the bulbs with compact fluorescents and had problems.
Hey guys, I just had this problem today! I have two remotes, one outside wall mount and two cars with the remote integrated. When I came back none were working. The door would close by remote but not open! I read one of the comments about LED lights and I realised I bought a humidifier with a LED night light which I put in my bedroom right above the garage. This sounds crazy but when I turned off the LED light, everything started working again. My guess is that the LED stops the signal. Hope it works for you.
With a simple continuity check, you would have likely found the original wire was still connected. I often found, just adding 6 more inches of any light weight wire to an antenna system like this cures the problem. Nice video, good job!
Bill Conserva How would you connect a new portion of wire to the old wire? Wire nut?
This is really helpful. My garage has exactly this problem. I just fixed it today and it works very well.
Thanks I'll try this. I have the same product AND the same exact problem! Open garage door? Fine. Closed? Problem...unless you click the button almost against the door. I may try this method.
I just found out that the lock button on the garage door opener, located on the wall was activated, causing the remote controls to not work. Fixed it with a simple click of a button.
+G Squared Thank you very much for pointing that out. My opener was locked (don't know how that happened) so I unlocked it. Works fine now.
Lock Button for me too. Thanks.
Can you point out which one is the lock button on the wall? The two small ones below the big white push button?
Replaced bulbs with the Genie bulbs. I have an extension wire on my Genie Intellicode GDO. Worked for a while, but now it will not work unless the remove is within 5 feet of the antenna.
Had the exact same problem. I didn’t do this but I did strip the antenna to expose the wire, about half an inch, and it started working again.
Hey thanks! So far its working fine. But if it acts strange again I'll try that.
Any problems sense you replaced the wire?
Yes! And I am glad you asked. I just uploaded a new video. th-cam.com/video/I_yzesvN8AI/w-d-xo.html
I found the real source of the problem today. It was not the wire, but replacing the wire did help it to work for a bit.
I had an issue and found it was the CFL bulb - it was interfering believe it or not. DITCH EM - LED are so cheap now.
Hi Adam, I have a Raynor Flitestar Garage Door Opener. The operator runs from the push button on the wall but not from the remote radio control. My codes are the same, the battery was replaced and the exterior Radio Receiver has electricity feeding it at about 25 volts. The radio receiver clicks every time I push the remote like it is receiving a signal but the door will not open. Is this a common problem? Should I just buy a new residential logic board?
So you hear a relay click on the board? And absolutely no movement in the door? It could be several things on the board from a bad connection to bad capacitors or other parts. I would first take a look at the wired connections and then inspect the board. Many times you will see visual clues.
I have this issue, and it escalated very quickly, when you use the remote, you hear one long beep followed by three short beeps! Anyone else have the same beeping pattern?
Any I have to try the button many times to finally open.
And then it took more and more presses to finally open.
Forgot to mention the beeping started going off a lot and randomly.
Replaced battery and still no improvement, reset power from the circuit breaker and beeping didn't stop,
Removed the panel that's beeping from the wall and tried to open and nothing.
With panel still off I used the program button on the overhead unit and it seam like the remote refused to pair so I put the panel back on the wall and continue to use the program button on the overhead unit and it paired with the remote. Forgot to mention the learn button didn't blink properly for pairing, yellow light stay solid while red light blink.
But after doing this the remote started working and all the crazy beeping no longer happens with remote use or randomly.
But while testing the now working situation, it started to become intermittent, then I had to be closer, then closer again to the point if your three inches away from the remote wire it will Not open but two inches away from the remote wire and it will open. Keep in mind new battery.
Does anyone share any part of my same experience with beeping or rapid progression of failure, etc.
at the time of this Comment it's still not working correctly, any advice?!?
are there a et of DIP switches in the motor housing so I can see if they match up with the DIP switches on my remote. I dropped the remote, it opened up and maybe in handling It I changed the DIP settings. If there are DIP switches on the motor, where are they and how do I get to them. I removed the light cover and there is nothing around there. Thanks
The one thing I've failed to see anybody comment about is have they checked their system for 24 volts? The transformers get weak over time and start putting out half of their capacity. First thing you need to check is this, cause the radio signals then get weak and won't activate the contactor/relay. Sure you can extend the antenna, but I don't believe it's a long term solution.
I changed out the LED bulb that was in there and replaced with a regular bulb and it works.
I have power to my lift master but the remote and the unit on the wall don't work. All wire connections are good. one thing I can't fix is that the sensors do not light up. I think this is the problem but no matter how I position them they do not work.
How could I solve this problem?
Thanks
Hi Adam, I just installed a Mastercraft opener and accidentally broke off the travel-adjustment screw that determines the length of travel for the downward position of the door. the screw shaft has disappeared into the housing. If I can get the housing off, do you think there is a way to fix it?
+Jeff Matity One trick is to melt the end of a standard cheap Bic pen with a lighter and shove it on the part that you want to turn. The melting plastic will take the shape of the broken part and then quickly cool. You may now be able to use the pen as a driver. That is a trick I sometimes use when I am desperate or have a special security screw that I need to remove. As far as replacement screw parts, I don't know. I never had to deal with something like that. If I had to guess, I would say no, you likely wont find any replacement parts for that.
My problem is the garage door will not close with either my handheld remote or the vehicle remote while the light is on. (4 1/2 minutes). Th wall unit works all of the time and even if stand right underneath the antenna the remote will not work until the light cycle ends. Chamberland tells me that I can not disable the light cycle on this older model. My other door which is the same model works every time with either remote. Any ideas on how to fix this/?
Thank you for sharing this video Adam! you just save me several bucks in garage technicians :)
Thanks to commentor below I fixed it! Problem was old door chime I threw away and was causing interference!
I have the same problem, when I get home I'll change the led bulb and see if that works. However, I have 2 montion sensors and one has a green light and the other has a yellow light, thought that had something to do with it.
i have a feeling that is my problem, so you shut vid off on the part i wanted to see, cause i never sodered anything before, how do i fix it....
Thanks for the info it saved me money bless you.
really cool, but more details are wanted.
my garage just not work,there's no response after click the button on remoter. but bulb mount on the opener can be switch on, no idea, what happened.
how do you check those circuit things ? any suggestions are welcome.
Try this: th-cam.com/video/I_yzesvN8AI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Adam, just replaced it with a new one since the box that use to mout the motor and its axle broken.
Had very similar symptoms. Remote erratic. Would open, but not close w/ remote. Only getting worse. Tried the solder trick and the smack to the head, but still had the same results. Re-programmed 2 remotes (w/ new batts.) and still no joy. Saw another vid. (some bearded Sears guy I think) that mentioned wifi cameras causing rf interference. Well, I do have a wifi ('smarthome' outdoor HD) camera mounted outside to watch the driveway. I rebooted the power supply to the camera and now both remotes seem to have the original range and have been error free for 2 days. Let's hope that fixed my issue. Will advise.
Yes there are so many rf signals in the air now that it is bound to cause trouble. I also suspect some wifi thermometers may be causing trouble. Yes, please keep us updated.
good video!
hi adam my garage door opener light did not turn on when i open and already change the bulb its still not working. do u know why
I had the same problem and the fix was simple but you better follow my instructions completely because the fix can be dangerous if done wrong. Here is the important first step: UNPLUG THE GARAGE DOOR OPENER FROM THE OUTLET FIRST!!! If you don't you will be in for a nasty shock. Literally. Second step use a tool with some sort of hook end to lift the metal at the bottom of the bulb socket so it makes contact with the bottom of the bulb. It worked for me. Yours may have a different problem. Again, please don't stick things in socket that are plugged in.
Suddenly none of my garage door remotes were working. Before you start pulling things apart, check that you didn't inadvertently hit the "lock" button on the control panel. That's what I had done. I hit the lock button again and everything was back to normal.
Debi Short good call! lock button fixed my problem. Thanks!
Hi Adam, I have a Liftmaster and I'm replacing one of my remotes as its not working. I bought the universal Chamberlain remote from Home Depot. I think I've programmed it correctly and it opens the garage fine, but does not close. Every single time I press the remote to close the garage, the Liftmaster light blinks 9-10 times. Please help.
This video will help th-cam.com/video/FTzA7oXy8fM/w-d-xo.html
The sensors are telling the opener that something is in the way. Check the sensors.
I have three remotes none of which work, new batteries, door works fine...is there a circuit board
Oh man I gotta do all that!!!!
I have this issue, and it escalated very quickly, when you use the remote, you hear one long beep followed by three short beeps! Anyone else have the same beeping pattern?
Any I have to try the button many times to finally open.
And then it took more and more presses to finally open.
Forgot to mention the beeping started going off a lot and randomly.
Replaced battery and still no improvement, reset power from the circuit breaker and beeping didn't stop,
Removed the panel that's beeping from the wall and tried to open and nothing.
With panel still off I used the program button on the overhead unit and it seam like the remote refused to pair so I put the panel back on the wall and continue to use the program button on the overhead unit and it paired with the remote. Forgot to mention the learn button didn't blink properly for pairing, yellow light stay solid while red light blink.
But after doing this the remote started working and all the crazy beeping no longer happens with remote use or randomly.
But while testing the now working situation, it started to become intermittent, then I had to be closer, then closer again to the point if your three inches away from the remote wire it will Not open but two inches away from the remote wire and it will open. Keep in mind new battery.
Does anyone share any part of my same experience with beeping or rapid progression of failure, etc.
at the time of this Comment it's still not working correctly, any advice?!?
I keep changing batteries cussing my neighbor that i get them from that installs them.Time to check the antenna wire,lol
pro trick : watch movies on flixzone. I've been using it for watching loads of movies during the lockdown.
@Hezekiah Pedro Yea, have been watching on flixzone for months myself :)
Here's a hint I had same problem , Dont use LED lights in Door opener they are not capatable with mother board , I put in incadesant bulbs and opener works great 200 feet away with door closed.
+Phil Saladino That was my problem - went back to incandesent and all is good - Thanks Phil!
Fantastic glad I could help.
Thank you for posting this. I changed a bulb yesterday and all my remotes were only working some of the time. Spent a half hour trying to re program then looked at this video and comments.
Spot on!! Just removed my LED's and works great again. Thanks!
Phil Saladino my man, changed my led and worked like a charm. Thank u!
my doors will close only when the lights go off. does the liftmaster have a timer on the lights.
Yes, the light usually runs on a timer unless you turn them on manually. But it sounds like your bulbs may be causing interference. What type do you have? Try regular old incandescents.
My garage door works mannually before, after programming the remote, it works the first time with remote. Then garage door only open and closed one foot. I replaced the circuit board, still same thing. Now even mannually, only go up and down one foot.
Jane zheng Did you do the balance test? Something may be wrong with the track or the Torsion Spring could be broken. I made another video that address that problem and many others.
Jane zheng th-cam.com/video/FTzA7oXy8fM/w-d-xo.html
Called the chamberlain technical support, apparently it was the force adjustment. I adjusted it from a 1 to 5, everything works great now.
DONT install leds light in that motor. I have 28 leds to light the garage. they must be off if i want to remote open the door. If the lights are on, i must put the remote in six feet from the motor for him to operate. Installed a wire to the antenna and now that thing open from at least 100 meters.
My Garage door remote control don’t work in the mornings when is cold
yes
Visor?
I have that problem with one of my cars only what can cause this? The other one works but only from the driveway. I took off the l.e.d. light bulbs, because i heard they can cause it to not work.
It's the LED light bulb giving you interference. Just happened to us! Stupid!! Wouldn't go down (because the light was on) but worked fine when opening the door.
LED.. is the problem.
soldered......
No help it doesn't work
remote control door
Visor
80
Edited film it started working after he called the repair man
I'm 7 years work in the garage door industry and never face this type of problem.
95% of the times that garage door remote isn't working is due to the battery contacts that loosing their gripe on the battery edges
Which battery and what edges? Are you talking about faulty remotes? What if all of them occasionally stop working? Looks like 90% of time it's not a battery but radio interference.
I have this same problem, with the same garage door opener. I replaced the whole backside of the garage door opener, and the problem still exists. I've researched this on the internet, and there are a TON of people with the exact same problem. Chamberlain just says "your mother board is faulty" as a simple solution, but thats not always the case. People are probably not telling you their issues. Just look around, everyone describes the same problem in nearly the same way. I think its a design flaw somewhere. Maybe they need to use a more precise frequency or something.
I used an ICStation one button remote control for $10. www.icstation.com/channel-wireless-remote-control-relay-module-315mhz-p-3201.html
Wired the input across the 12v on the PCB. The output just wired across the contacts that the garage door wall switch runs to. Works great.
N
You're mumbling.