One question and a note: The question is should the front cap be treated any differently? I have a GD 2600RB. Bonus question:) I have noted a rock has hit the front cap and there is a small shatter like a rock hitting a windshield, any suggestions. I think most of the RV world appreciate your offerings, I know I do. I have a lot of your suggested tools: Drip Free Caulk Gun - and it is; CRL scrappers - tapered and windshield - plus recommended sharpening; Acrysol - spray and can. Since silicone does not stick to silicone, and you cannot make repairs to small areas, I am not going to use it. I have used GeoCel 28101/28127 but they no longer manufacture that product. They had produced a 28900 line, but I did not see that on their website today, but they said it is still available; they do have 2300 MHRV. I am going to try the Lexel product. You note that there are many good products out there so I am just adding this note. I have not used it yet but I have seen many positive reviews on Lexel and Sika SikaFlex - and I think SikaFlex only comes is white and black - I will try it also. Enjoy these final days of 2024 & THANKS AGAIN!
Are you talking about adding the 2nd molding on the roof? Or the screw cover on sides seams? Geocel has been changing some of there part numbers lately. Due to the solvents for some of the states like mine CA. 😡rules… The other sealant brand you mentioned is a good brand also, we actually just revived some today on an order. Thanks for sharing and following, I think one of your questions was about the CRL stick, I have a video on how to sharpen those. For the crack, we would normally grind out, fill with fiberglass, filler or resin, sand down and repaint or blend that area. You should be able if needed to turn into your insurance policy for coverage. If you get it fixed you might want to check into that 3M film to protect it or a rock guard. Anyways, thanks again and hope I somewhat answered some of your questions. It’s been a long day today, so I’m a little bit. 😩 Thanks Dustin
@@yourrvspecialists I was talking about replacing the sealant that runs down the front on each side of the front cap. I assume just use the acrysol and CRL to remove and caulk. Do you use black caulk on black, or just use clear? I just ran across a reply from GD that says they use Geocel 2300 MHRV, which is interesting. If GD used this tripolymer in their production end users would not have to remove all of the silicone for small patches, because polymers will stick to other polys. The part numbers for the Geocel 2300 MHRV is GC63100 clear, ..101 white, ...103 black. GD has also said they use TremPro 644/645 silicones, and the manual mentions Alpha Non-Sag synthetic rubber for roofs. I checked my VIN with GD to see if they used the 2300 and they did not. For where the rock struck the front cap I may just use a piece of black eternabond on the place where the rock struck the front cap; I am tired of insurance repairs; tree branch fell on the roof and the shop and insurance could not get close:-| The 3M film or rock guard sounds like a good idea. Another polyurethane that has been noted as being very good by several TH-camrs is Sika SikaFlex 221(sides) and 715 (non-sag). As you said, there are a lot of options out there. THANKS FOR ALL THAT YOU DO - VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
Just depends, there is a a lot of different factors that come into place. Depends on how you store it how much you use it what kind of soaps you use? What kind of area it is in for exposure to rain snow,ocean sand etc.. it also depends on the coach and the flexibility of it and how hard you drive it. I would resell some units myself obviously over the years and I’ve only had to touch them up and they’ve lasted 2 to 5 years. I’ve had others go longer and I’ve had others go as short as one year just again depends on the conditions. Most manufacturers nowadays are even recommending that you inspect all the sealants on the roof and body after each use or at least once a month. Which is kind of crazy nobody’s gonna do that, but that’s their way. I guess of getting out of any damage if it occurs.
I get something put together very soon, we do reseal almost everyday. Thanks for sharing and watching, within next few weeks I’ll post something. Trying to get everything done for end of the year at business, plus with holidays been crazy. 🤪
Having decades of RV ownership/repair/maintenance experience, I'll continue to use alternative products to silicone.
Great video. I just became a certified LV 2 tech in August. I also live here in N. Calif. Solano County. Thanks Don
Thank you, very cool. We are all here to help one another. You’re just down the road, feel free to swing by and say hi sometime.
@yourrvspecialists thank you I will
One question and a note: The question is should the front cap be treated any differently? I have a GD 2600RB. Bonus question:) I have noted a rock has hit the front cap and there is a small shatter like a rock hitting a windshield, any suggestions.
I think most of the RV world appreciate your offerings, I know I do. I have a lot of your suggested tools: Drip Free Caulk Gun - and it is; CRL scrappers - tapered and windshield - plus recommended sharpening; Acrysol - spray and can. Since silicone does not stick to silicone, and you cannot make repairs to small areas, I am not going to use it. I have used GeoCel 28101/28127 but they no longer manufacture that product. They had produced a 28900 line, but I did not see that on their website today, but they said it is still available; they do have 2300 MHRV. I am going to try the Lexel product. You note that there are many good products out there so I am just adding this note. I have not used it yet but I have seen many positive reviews on Lexel and Sika SikaFlex - and I think SikaFlex only comes is white and black - I will try it also. Enjoy these final days of 2024 & THANKS AGAIN!
Are you talking about adding the 2nd molding on the roof? Or the screw cover on sides seams?
Geocel has been changing some of there part numbers lately. Due to the solvents for some of the states like mine CA. 😡rules…
The other sealant brand you mentioned is a good brand also, we actually just revived some today on an order.
Thanks for sharing and following, I think one of your questions was about the CRL stick, I have a video on how to sharpen those.
For the crack, we would normally grind out, fill with fiberglass, filler or resin, sand down and repaint or blend that area.
You should be able if needed to turn into your insurance policy for coverage. If you get it fixed you might want to check into that 3M film to protect it or a rock guard.
Anyways, thanks again and hope I somewhat answered some of your questions. It’s been a long day today, so I’m a little bit. 😩
Thanks Dustin
@@yourrvspecialists I was talking about replacing the sealant that runs down the front on each side of the front cap. I assume just use the acrysol and CRL to remove and caulk. Do you use black caulk on black, or just use clear? I just ran across a reply from GD that says they use Geocel 2300 MHRV, which is interesting. If GD used this tripolymer in their production end users would not have to remove all of the silicone for small patches, because polymers will stick to other polys. The part numbers for the Geocel 2300 MHRV is GC63100 clear, ..101 white, ...103 black. GD has also said they use TremPro 644/645 silicones, and the manual mentions Alpha Non-Sag synthetic rubber for roofs. I checked my VIN with GD to see if they used the 2300 and they did not. For where the rock struck the front cap I may just use a piece of black eternabond on the place where the rock struck the front cap; I am tired of insurance repairs; tree branch fell on the roof and the shop and insurance could not get close:-| The 3M film or rock guard sounds like a good idea. Another polyurethane that has been noted as being very good by several TH-camrs is Sika SikaFlex 221(sides) and 715 (non-sag). As you said, there are a lot of options out there. THANKS FOR ALL THAT YOU DO - VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
How often should a reseal be done?
Just depends, there is a a lot of different factors that come into place. Depends on how you store it how much you use it what kind of soaps you use? What kind of area it is in for exposure to rain snow,ocean sand etc..
it also depends on the coach and the flexibility of it and how hard you drive it.
I would resell some units myself obviously over the years and I’ve only had to touch them up and they’ve lasted 2 to 5 years. I’ve had others go longer and I’ve had others go as short as one year just again depends on the conditions.
Most manufacturers nowadays are even recommending that you inspect all the sealants on the roof and body after each use or at least once a month.
Which is kind of crazy nobody’s gonna do that, but that’s their way. I guess of getting out of any damage if it occurs.
Can you make a video of the proper way to seal from start to finish? (only on like a compartment door)
I get something put together very soon, we do reseal almost everyday. Thanks for sharing and watching, within next few weeks I’ll post something. Trying to get everything done for end of the year at business, plus with holidays been crazy. 🤪