I dont quite understand why hes lengthening the front mastercylimder pushrod. Is he doing that because he wants more front brake, or does it give it less front brake when lengthening it?
@@tabcobra The front MC is smaller than the rear MC, so the rod needs to move more to displace the same fluid as the rear. This is a good way to apply more braking to the front so you don't lock up the rears.
Interesting about front brake lock up should occur before rear lock up. My impression is that when a wheel locks up, and the tire contact patch starts to slide on the pavement, that the resistance of the sliding wheel is less than than of a tire that is close to, but not over, the traction limit. So, if the front wheels lock up, and the rear wheels are close to locking up, the rears will provide more braking effort.
You're right. If the fronts lock up first, the car will remain fairly straight and is much easier to control. If you set it up the opposite way, it can cause the car to be tail happy under braking, but steering inputs still work. Some racers/sports/vehicles benefit from being able to rotate the car via braking, but I think it's mostly a personal taste/driving style thing.
@@Northern_ Both of these comments are the most idiotic things I've read in a long time. You would never, EVER set it up the opposite way - and you have the literal manufacturer of the system warning you not to for good reason. For the dummies. We're not talking about compression locking to chirp the wheels of a locked diff and rotate the car. We're talking about threshold brake locking the entire rear wheels before the front wheels. It isn't easier or harder to control. It is OUT OF control. You have ZERO control if the rear wheels are locked under braking. You are more than welcome to try and set a car up that way. Your eyes will widen as you realise why it isn't a good idea, as the car swings out from under you like a pendulum and might as well be like driving on ice.
Front locking up is safer than the rear. If the rear locks up it'll be more prone to spin under steering input or lateral g's. The fronts locking up just give you no steering or understeering which is safer. Unless you're trying to get lap times.
I'm surprised with the amount of play you are leaving in. The brake balance bar can move left/right as you are cornering and setle in a diferent position for the next braking... any coments?
Its an inefficient design, hence why the price is low. Using a trunnion balance bar is the proper way. An ap racing trunnion assembly alone costs more than the whole tilton pedal box.
It's probably just put together losely for demonstration purposes... Turning one clevis while keeping the other (and the bar) fixed will solve the problem... Think there should be plastic washers bte the clevis' and the pedal aswell....
I dont quite understand why hes lengthening the front mastercylimder pushrod. Is he doing that because he wants more front brake, or does it give it less front brake when lengthening it?
Lengthening should give more brake.
@@tabcobra The front MC is smaller than the rear MC, so the rod needs to move more to displace the same fluid as the rear. This is a good way to apply more braking to the front so you don't lock up the rears.
Interesting about front brake lock up should occur before rear lock up. My impression is that when a wheel locks up, and the tire contact patch starts to slide on the pavement, that the resistance of the sliding wheel is less than than of a tire that is close to, but not over, the traction limit. So, if the front wheels lock up, and the rear wheels are close to locking up, the rears will provide more braking effort.
You're right. If the fronts lock up first, the car will remain fairly straight and is much easier to control.
If you set it up the opposite way, it can cause the car to be tail happy under braking, but steering inputs still work.
Some racers/sports/vehicles benefit from being able to rotate the car via braking, but I think it's mostly a personal taste/driving style thing.
@@Northern_ Both of these comments are the most idiotic things I've read in a long time. You would never, EVER set it up the opposite way - and you have the literal manufacturer of the system warning you not to for good reason. For the dummies. We're not talking about compression locking to chirp the wheels of a locked diff and rotate the car. We're talking about threshold brake locking the entire rear wheels before the front wheels. It isn't easier or harder to control. It is OUT OF control. You have ZERO control if the rear wheels are locked under braking. You are more than welcome to try and set a car up that way. Your eyes will widen as you realise why it isn't a good idea, as the car swings out from under you like a pendulum and might as well be like driving on ice.
Front locking up is safer than the rear. If the rear locks up it'll be more prone to spin under steering input or lateral g's.
The fronts locking up just give you no steering or understeering which is safer. Unless you're trying to get lap times.
Thanks it was very informative
is that a Trophy Truck in the background?
I'm surprised with the amount of play you are leaving in. The brake balance bar can move left/right as you are cornering and setle in a diferent position for the next braking... any coments?
Its an inefficient design, hence why the price is low. Using a trunnion balance bar is the proper way. An ap racing trunnion assembly alone costs more than the whole tilton pedal box.
It's probably just put together losely for demonstration purposes... Turning one clevis while keeping the other (and the bar) fixed will solve the problem... Think there should be plastic washers bte the clevis' and the pedal aswell....
Wow thank you!
Huge help. Thanks!
Super helpful
Can you please guide us on how to use a balance bar for our baja ATV, when we are implenting a "Y-type"brake circuit design.
My bias bar is rotating, what should be the reason
Tighten jam nut