I have the same hotwheel, but it actually has the wonder bread logo on it. it looks weathered and beat up which would be absolutely perfect for Gaslands. Thank you for sharing this technique.
Tried this, didn’t ‘adhere’ for me. I did not spray clear on the existing car, as I was going to just put the decal on factory paint. I guess that’s my problem? I Need new paint on the decal AND the diecast..?
RaceGrooves someone used this technique for LEGO: they printed their design,then put one sided tape on top, and two sided on the bottom, then when he cut it out it was like any old sticker I’m also a sub
Wow, that takes me back! I remember a similar technique I learned around 1990. Instead of printing the images, it used the glossy ad prints from the Sunday paper. Two or three thick coats of gloss, cut out, then a still wet coat of gloss on the surface you wanted to apply it on. Had a hard hat (summer job) covered in cereal advertisements. Lucky, Captain Crunch, and Snap Crackle and Pop.
@@baremetalHW Question, if I may: I understand that the visible edges of water slide decal film is the bane of many modelers' existence. is this method any better in that respect? Do you still see the clear coat after application?
This was a trick I learnd back in my drag racing days in the 70s. But we used clear lacquer; works just as well. I didn't know anyone else knew...Great video!
I needed some markings for a bunch of 1/72nd _plastic_ tanks. 1st: Where I live, any "Clear Coat" isn't readily available (and hell, I'm too cheap to buy online...) and 2nd: Using a hot-air gun on plastic could be, in my hands, a disaster waiting to happen! So, using your basic idea, I printed the design on regular printer paper, cut it out, then brushed it over with some model enamel clear matt varnish and placed the decal onto the paint model. I left it to dry for an hour or so. Then, wetting the decal with warm water, used my finger-tip and nail to *_slowly and carefully_* remove the paper. Bingo! It worked! :) So, if it wasn't for this video, I'd have plain, unmarked tanks. Thanks! :D
Hi, I love this easy technique. You asked for suggestions, mine is to use rice paper. It will be much easier to remove, nearly dissolve in water. Please keep up the great work!
Rice paper goes through a printer? I would have thought the ink would dissolve the paper, or the paper might crack or jam in the printer. Would love to see this method in action.
This is a really good idea! Coincidentally, I've been doing something similar to this recently. I just printed decals onto a sheet of paper, and then I glued it to the car. This is a much better idea and it doesn't seem to be too hard to do, so I'll be trying this out once I get my own can of clear coat instead of my brother's. Great job as usual!
I think this is a great technique for something that looks aged and/or abanded. That decal looked blurry once you wiped all the paper fibers away. It didn't look clean like the truck was new or near to new. I like the grafetti detail. Thanks for the technique.
I'm never going to put the techniques in your tutorial videos to use since I don't modify die cast cars (or die cast anything), but I'd be lying if I said they weren't fun to watch.
Even say one made from polystyrene plastic? Because I'm pretty sure the plastic will melt or at least deform from the hair dryer phase. That said it is a cool technique for metal objects.
A hairdryer will not distort styrene plastic models. If you're just not sure, test on a body where it won't make any difference. A heat gun is another subject.
Thank-you so much for this! I've been trying to find a low-cost method of applying decals and artwork to my scale models. Going to try this technique and see how it works for me.
Omg nice! The video I was looking for, ain't no body got time for actual decal paper cause I'm new to decal waterside. Lol I got to use what I got at home, can I use photo gloss paper?
Thank you for a wonderful and inexpensive way of applying graphics on a vehicle. I want to do customs so all this is new for me. I will keep this method in mind and hope to make something cool! Thank you again for this great tip!
This is awesome dude thanks so much! if you can improve anything on that I would say To just adjust color saturation before printing to compensate for the faded result of original print settings.
Awesome cool! Basically this is kind of a modified napkin-technique, which works perfectly for this small scale. This provides almost limitless possibilities at low cost in a simple way. With other words: genious.
I think Hot Wheels released a bus casting as a police prison transporting bus, if I also remember correctly there is a pure white version and a split version having black upper and lower with a white middle.
Holy hell that is BRILLIANT! O______O I've always wanted to get into this custom decal thing but could never get past the price of admission. Those custom decal kits are too expensive to me. This is an incredibly smart way to do it! Wow! Thank you!
Another great vid from BMHW! The van turned out great! The ONLY thing I can add to the overall effect is that it could use a flat tire or two.;) I've toyed with this technique in the past and had great results with tracing paper and rice paper aswell. On the downside, you need to be a bit more careful when handling the image with these but on the plus side,they're thin enough that you don't have to remove the paper. Simply lay a moderately heavy clear coat over them and the papers absorb it. Let them cure,lay another normal clear coat over it and you can cut/polish it as you would a final coat. Again,GREAT JOB MAN!
It is really a fun and easily applicable method. I find it more suitable for die-cast metal models rather than plastic ones because the clear coat may affect the plastic.
I'm curious to see if I use photo paper in stead of plain paper if the colors retain a little more gloss or if the gloss from the paper becomes too bulky. My technique for panel van signs and bread trucks is to print the graphic directly to plain paper, use a really thin clear packing tape to seal it (and add a glossy look), and then cut it to fit. I adhere it by using a two sided tape dispenser on the back (the ones that look like the white-out dispensers). This also works great for repro or custom decals for old Star Wars ships. Great videos, keep them coming!
I really enjoyed this video. Well done. I have attempted to create grafiti decals from pics taken from local rail box cars. I used my old Canon and a CorelDRAW X8 ?Photo Paint program. It takes a bit of work and plenty of patience , but it was worth the time.
I'm miserable at painting, so I sent a Matchbox car off to be sanded, painted, and clearcoated. I'm gonna add a few small waterslide decals, would you recommend clearcoat over that, or should the decals be okay? I don't have an airbrush or anything so I dunno how I'd apply it.
Nice technique. I have done something similar at work to make stickers for machine control panels. (there are some things our label printer won't do) I print the desired graphic normally (not reversed) on a laser printer then trim it and stick a piece of packing tape on the printed side. Next I stick the tape in the sink and under running water I rub away the paper. The glue is water proof as is the toner. Next I dry it with compressed air, trim the tape, leaving a border around the graphic, and apply to the control panel. It's probably not applicable to models unless it was something where the packing tape could go all the way to the edge or be hidden by some other feature. (like a picture frame)
baremetalHW Heck Yeah! Awsome technique. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see yo make the 1955 Cadillac hearse in the "Warriors" movie. That would be sick.
yeah I tried the iron on laser jet prints on bare wood with mixed results. I think with the clear base, and blow dryer, I'll get better results! Great job!
hey liked your end product so much!! I thought I'd mention something that you might already apply to your 'real examples' (you noted this is an example car and not a true resto so I don't know if my suggestion here is all that needed for your usual pieces) but the grooves on top of the van would be darker than the higher ridges due to crud collection, where in this model they're clean. Makes sense since this isn't a true replica, but for peeps who are keeping an eye out for every little bit of tips and tricks, moss build up is a big one on neglected rigs like this death machine. Ok well there's my stupid .02 have a good one all!!!
So is the idea to begin the heat-and-press technique while the clear coat is still wet on both surfaces? Or should the clear coat be completely dry on both surfaces first?
I have the same hotwheel, but it actually has the wonder bread logo on it. it looks weathered and beat up which would be absolutely perfect for Gaslands. Thank you for sharing this technique.
Very interesting technique!
RaceGrooves I love seeing my favorite TH-camrs watching my other favorite TH-camrs
Mi your fan, i enjoyo your videos, please give a look to my Channel and tell me what you think, regards
RaceGrooves can you do this
Tried this, didn’t ‘adhere’ for me. I did not spray clear on the existing car, as I was going to just put the decal on factory paint. I guess that’s my problem? I Need new paint on the decal AND the diecast..?
RaceGrooves someone used this technique for LEGO: they printed their design,then put one sided tape on top, and two sided on the bottom, then when he cut it out it was like any old sticker
I’m also a sub
Wow, that takes me back! I remember a similar technique I learned around 1990. Instead of printing the images, it used the glossy ad prints from the Sunday paper. Two or three thick coats of gloss, cut out, then a still wet coat of gloss on the surface you wanted to apply it on. Had a hard hat (summer job) covered in cereal advertisements. Lucky, Captain Crunch, and Snap Crackle and Pop.
that's awesome
@@baremetalHW hey man , the clear coat must be makers?
@@baremetalHW Question, if I may: I understand that the visible edges of water slide decal film is the bane of many modelers' existence. is this method any better in that respect? Do you still see the clear coat after application?
This was a trick I learnd back in my drag racing days in the 70s. But we used clear lacquer; works just as well. I didn't know anyone else knew...Great video!
I have recently retired and was wondering what I would do to wile away the empty days. Eureka!
No idea how I got here, but so glad I stayed to see the finished truck! Very cool...
That's awesome! As a 1:25 model builder, your techniques serve for a great deal of inspiration. I'd like to thank you and: Keep it up!
1:87 is something remarkable to work with!
I needed some markings for a bunch of 1/72nd _plastic_ tanks. 1st: Where I live, any "Clear Coat" isn't readily available (and hell, I'm too cheap to buy online...) and 2nd: Using a hot-air gun on plastic could be, in my hands, a disaster waiting to happen!
So, using your basic idea, I printed the design on regular printer paper, cut it out, then brushed it over with some model enamel clear matt varnish and placed the decal onto the paint model.
I left it to dry for an hour or so. Then, wetting the decal with warm water, used my finger-tip and nail to *_slowly and carefully_* remove the paper. Bingo! It worked! :)
So, if it wasn't for this video, I'd have plain, unmarked tanks. Thanks! :D
Hi, I love this easy technique. You asked for suggestions, mine is to use rice paper. It will be much easier to remove, nearly dissolve in water.
Please keep up the great work!
Rice paper goes through a printer? I would have thought the ink would dissolve the paper, or the paper might crack or jam in the printer. Would love to see this method in action.
This is a really good idea! Coincidentally, I've been doing something similar to this recently. I just printed decals onto a sheet of paper, and then I glued it to the car. This is a much better idea and it doesn't seem to be too hard to do, so I'll be trying this out once I get my own can of clear coat instead of my brother's. Great job as usual!
I think this is a great technique for something that looks aged and/or abanded. That decal looked blurry once you wiped all the paper fibers away. It didn't look clean like the truck was new or near to new. I like the grafetti detail. Thanks for the technique.
I'm never going to put the techniques in your tutorial videos to use since I don't modify die cast cars (or die cast anything), but I'd be lying if I said they weren't fun to watch.
No one said they had to be diecast. It will work on any flat, slick surface.
Even say one made from polystyrene plastic? Because I'm pretty sure the plastic will melt or at least deform from the hair dryer phase.
That said it is a cool technique for metal objects.
A hairdryer will not distort styrene plastic models. If you're just not sure, test on a body where it won't make any difference. A heat gun is another subject.
Kojak0 You know they make paint for engine blocks that will withstand 500+ degrees I don’t think any hair dryer can actually get that hot.
@Martin Luther I'm never going to give you a "👍", but I love how whiny you're comment is.
Thank-you so much for this! I've been trying to find a low-cost method of applying decals and artwork to my scale models. Going to try this technique and see how it works for me.
I'm often hesitant to try out these techniques, but this has me intrigued that you could just print out almost whatever. Nice video man.
Omg nice! The video I was looking for, ain't no body got time for actual decal paper cause I'm new to decal waterside. Lol I got to use what I got at home, can I use photo gloss paper?
Amazing I would have never thought of that. Thanks for sharing.
Great technique. I wish you would do a video a week! By far one of the best and informative channels on TH-cam.
Thank you for a wonderful and inexpensive way of applying graphics on a vehicle. I want to do customs so all this is new for me. I will keep this method in mind and hope to make something cool! Thank you again for this great tip!
The end result was really cool, I was not expecting that and it looked great.
That is ingenious! I've always had problems with waterside decals, this is a great alternative!
Very cool technique... Truck looks like it belongs in the RoboCop verse.
This is awesome dude thanks so much! if you can improve anything on that I would say To just adjust color saturation before printing to compensate for the faded result of original print settings.
I have never seen this technique. I always used the decal paper. I am definitely going to try this! Thanks for posting this.
you should make a sweet tooth from twisted metal version. That truck would be greät for that theme.🤓
OH MY GOD, I love this idea!! :D
I was thinking that.
That's cool asf
Just wrote this before reading it looool
I love how this dude listens to his subscribers! He just uploaded that video today!
Awesome cool! Basically this is kind of a modified napkin-technique, which works perfectly for this small scale. This provides almost limitless possibilities at low cost in a simple way. With other words: genious.
Very nice! I'd never seen that done. Thanks!
WOW, great way to apply decals. Great work ides.
Very cool technique. Good casting choice for this as well. Really like the end results👍🏽
I thought that was a pretty crappy video until I saw the end result! Awesome!
Very interesting video. I did not know this was possible. Thank you.
Excellent technique, and very well explained and demonstrated.
This was very awesome to watch
You should paint a school bus gray and make it a prison bus. Would look cool
you've inspired me...as it happens I have a school bus. I suspect bars on windows are in order.
I think Hot Wheels released a bus casting as a police prison transporting bus, if I also remember correctly there is a pure white version and a split version having black upper and lower with a white middle.
Really good tip, thanks for share
Holy hell that is BRILLIANT! O______O I've always wanted to get into this custom decal thing but could never get past the price of admission. Those custom decal kits are too expensive to me. This is an incredibly smart way to do it! Wow! Thank you!
That trick blows me away!!!!!!! Great vid!
Loved your presentation!! Very nicely produced!! Too many others on here don't know how to produce a slick video!!
Wow ! That is so clever and artistic !
Thanks!
Awesome work
Nice man very nice thank u for sharing 👏👏👍👍
Thank you for your very informative tutorial. I am experimenting with decals for a telephone box and this will really help me :)
I found this video to be worth the time to watch and learn.
This is amazing advice, sir, thanks for posting it.
Nice work u get down, 👍
Nice technique. Will have to try this.
Another great vid from BMHW!
The van turned out great!
The ONLY thing I can add to the overall effect is that it could use a flat tire or two.;)
I've toyed with this technique in the past and had great results with tracing paper and rice paper aswell. On the downside, you need to be a bit more careful when handling the image with these but on the plus side,they're thin enough that you don't have to remove the paper. Simply lay a moderately heavy clear coat over them and the papers absorb it. Let them cure,lay another normal clear coat over it and you can cut/polish it as you would a final coat.
Again,GREAT JOB MAN!
Fantastica personalizzazione, ottimo lavoro! Bravissimo!
Hey its good to see something from you agian
Very cool. Thank you for sharing.I will try it on some model buildings.
You know what?
I fucking love your videos c:
*Hecc
Ssssooo Ccoooll Brother, thanks for sharing, God Bless All
Great job 👏
It is really a fun and easily applicable method. I find it more suitable for die-cast metal models rather than plastic ones because the clear coat may affect the plastic.
That is actually pretty cool!!! I'm going to have to try this!!!
What an awesome technique..
Thanks for sharing this technique! This will definitely come in handy for some customs I plan on doing.
I'm curious to see if I use photo paper in stead of plain paper if the colors retain a little more gloss or if the gloss from the paper becomes too bulky.
My technique for panel van signs and bread trucks is to print the graphic directly to plain paper, use a really thin clear packing tape to seal it (and add a glossy look), and then cut it to fit. I adhere it by using a two sided tape dispenser on the back (the ones that look like the white-out dispensers). This also works great for repro or custom decals for old Star Wars ships.
Great videos, keep them coming!
William Jackson let me know if the photo paper works... Thx!!
This is a very cool tip! Thanks for sharing.
The rust looks amazing!
That was a great project, really liked the used look
thats awesome.
Decal papers expensive here, so this is a much more affordable option
I really enjoyed this video. Well done. I have attempted to create grafiti decals from pics taken from local rail box cars. I used my old Canon and a CorelDRAW X8 ?Photo Paint program. It takes a bit of work and plenty of patience , but it was worth the time.
Very cool!
Have you tried covering the decal with a clear gloss coat, giving it a light sanding and repeating? That might give a smoother end result
I'm miserable at painting, so I sent a Matchbox car off to be sanded, painted, and clearcoated. I'm gonna add a few small waterslide decals, would you recommend clearcoat over that, or should the decals be okay? I don't have an airbrush or anything so I dunno how I'd apply it.
Impressive job
That was pretty cool. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome technique! Can this work on other surfaces that aren't die-cast metal?
Nice technique, I'll have to give that a shot
Interesting idea. Thanks.
i have tears in my eyes, pretty neat.
this is awesome! how hot does it need to be? will it negatively affect a plastic model? Thanks for the great technique!
Amazing video as always.
Nice work
Great video, very helpful, informative. Great job
I love it!!! Thank you so much! I'm going to make one for my mom's business now!
Sweet tips. Very informative.
thats a very neat technique... never knew this worked, thanks for showing this :)
Absolutely genius idea 💡
Nice technique.
I have done something similar at work to make stickers for machine control panels. (there are some things our label printer won't do) I print the desired graphic normally (not reversed) on a laser printer then trim it and stick a piece of packing tape on the printed side. Next I stick the tape in the sink and under running water I rub away the paper. The glue is water proof as is the toner. Next I dry it with compressed air, trim the tape, leaving a border around the graphic, and apply to the control panel.
It's probably not applicable to models unless it was something where the packing tape could go all the way to the edge or be hidden by some other feature. (like a picture frame)
Really good tip, thanks for share, Regards
baremetalHW Heck Yeah! Awsome technique. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see yo make the 1955 Cadillac hearse in the "Warriors" movie. That would be sick.
waaarriooorrss come out and pla aa aaayyy
You can get a Ghostbusters Ecto-1 and modify it. It's a 1959 Caddy hearse.
interesting idea. may try this
That turned out pretty cool sir
Coolest thing, I'm gonna try this in different surfaces lol.
interesting technique mate. I'm gonna try this for sure
Very good model u built
This video was very helpful and interesting
Very neat. I'm going to try this!
yeah I tried the iron on laser jet prints on bare wood with mixed results. I think with the clear base, and blow dryer, I'll get better results!
Great job!
wow that's a cool technique 👍
hey liked your end product so much!! I thought I'd mention something that you might already apply to your 'real examples' (you noted this is an example car and not a true resto so I don't know if my suggestion here is all that needed for your usual pieces) but the grooves on top of the van would be darker than the higher ridges due to crud collection, where in this model they're clean. Makes sense since this isn't a true replica, but for peeps who are keeping an eye out for every little bit of tips and tricks, moss build up is a big one on neglected rigs like this death machine. Ok well there's my stupid .02 have a good one all!!!
So is the idea to begin the heat-and-press technique while the clear coat is still wet on both surfaces? Or should the clear coat be completely dry on both surfaces first?
I love watching this guys videos. Keep it up!
That came out pretty good.
This is beyond cool! Well done!
cool looking work sir
Turned out nice!
Nice job at weathering!
Very cool. It's the same technique woodcutter David Bull uses to transfer prints to his wood blocks before cutting them.
Mats guess what I've been watching for the last hour...lol Thx!
That is amazing! Thank you for sharing.