Great video love the info had a question. What was the brand of spark plugs that you use? I didn’t quite catch it and what are some things to look out when tracking the car with these mods? I already have an oil cooler, oil pan baffle from Mountune, and the three core radiator from Mountune.
Thanks for the support, i recommend Brisk RR14YS plugs from Summit Racing which are a ngk 6510 replacement, if your above 400whp-500whp id go Brisk RR14s which is "non projected" so the tip is beefier, its in between a 1 step and 2 step cold plug. Other things i recommend is if your stock engine especially is keeping everything cool as possible, now ive never ran a aftermarket oil cooler because our cars have one already, you just need to install a 160° thermostat and your oil/coolant will be cooler but its definitely beneficial for what you do for racing, a bigger oil filter like a m1-209a filter or even a m1-301a works with a filter adapter, more oil capacity helps cooling and cleanliness. I would of done a bsd if you done that baffled upgrade, it removes parasitic drag on the crank and is known to fail too. Id also recommend AEM WaterMeth Kit, even for just cooling. Run a 250cc on the Cold pipe or a tb spacer, itll cool the pistons which is critical for our cast oem pistons , also it cleans the valves, raises octane and prevents knock and lower Exhaust Gas Temps which helps prevent head cracking. I ran wmi from 2015-present and i still have my original block and head. A CVF intercooler which is the best option for cooling and light, only 25 lbs. The cpe weighs 35lbs and its not needed unless your over 700whp. Running a bigger turbo helps move the tq band to the right and relieve the rods, the charge temps are also lower on a big turbo because its not working as hard, also less backpressure lowers heat on the head which prolongs life. *Hope this helps, this is some of the things I'd focus on 😉
@@WhiteblurrST thank you soo much. I did the BSD when I installed the baffle. All the mods and suggestions in the you video have been done and some, including e30 tune. The two things missing is larger turbo and meth injection. I am running a 3.5 intercooler from CPE and yes it is on the heavy side. Its just the thought of getting another intercooler is what holds me back $$$. So would you suggest upon a engine rebuild replacing the piston to forge aluminum, with the rest oem? Also with a larger turbo with 21psi never maxing? Keeping it as reliable and consistent as possible.
Get the cvf intercooler on their website using BB5 at checkout if you ever plan to upgrade, id use callies H beams and diamond or manley pistons is what you want, Arp 2000head studs. Oem bearings, oem main bolts.
You dont have to build the motor for a big turbo, just keep things cool and i wouldn't run any e85 on stock motor with a big turbo because it would be past 360whp and if you want the engine to live long, stay around 350whp. Water-meth will prolong the life of the engine, boost depends on the size of the turbo you get but id stick around 20-22psi.
Remember guys... You can throw all these parts at it or just buy a powermaxx turbo and an intercooler and make 270-290whp all day with everything else stock on 91 oct. 290-310 with intake and exhaust on 91 oct. Nice vid though bro. Accurate
Thanks. Yeah i agree with your statement but im not a fan of hybrid turbos because to me its like putting lip stick on a pig.. it doesn't help with longevity for anything and the exhaust side is the choke point on that goose neck and oem car design, which creates head cracking and even more back pressure on a restrictive design.. for a oem+ build its ok but personally i believe the ko4 would of been a way better turbo for our cars with a rs head, the rs should of gotten the 4 port with a 28 series frame turbo..
@WhiteblurrST Totally agreed. I feel like a lot of cost cutting went into making our cars. Just made them cheaper to buy and people like us fix those cost cutting decisions anyways. Cheers 🍻
Yeah owning this car for over 12 years i have learned alot about cars in general and I've done alot to figure out whats the best setups, most affective or most reliable in most cases. Appreciate the support 🙏
You can tighten it without tuning absolutely, thats why its free horsepower. It holds boost better this way. Keep an eye on your monitors obviously to make sure your good!
So basically heat makes the pistons fry ? So what if i ran wmi all the time with a gen 2 2867r but we dont have e85 in uk we just have 93 octane max which is 99 ron
That avalon is also a v6 3.5, they are great cars but that doesn't mean anything in comparison. This video explains the best way to reach 280whp-300whp, not crank hp like the 267hp avalon, the st stock is 252 and 270 in 2013 with a 2.0 and tiny ko3 turbo. This is a starter build video providing info for new ST owners.
Great stuff, we're here for it!
Appreciate it man.
Cannot wait for this one
Great job!
Thanks!
Great video love the info had a question. What was the brand of spark plugs that you use? I didn’t quite catch it and what are some things to look out when tracking the car with these mods? I already have an oil cooler, oil pan baffle from Mountune, and the three core radiator from Mountune.
Thanks for the support, i recommend Brisk RR14YS plugs from Summit Racing which are a ngk 6510 replacement, if your above 400whp-500whp id go Brisk RR14s which is "non projected" so the tip is beefier, its in between a 1 step and 2 step cold plug. Other things i recommend is if your stock engine especially is keeping everything cool as possible, now ive never ran a aftermarket oil cooler because our cars have one already, you just need to install a 160° thermostat and your oil/coolant will be cooler but its definitely beneficial for what you do for racing, a bigger oil filter like a m1-209a filter or even a m1-301a works with a filter adapter, more oil capacity helps cooling and cleanliness. I would of done a bsd if you done that baffled upgrade, it removes parasitic drag on the crank and is known to fail too. Id also recommend AEM WaterMeth Kit, even for just cooling. Run a 250cc on the Cold pipe or a tb spacer, itll cool the pistons which is critical for our cast oem pistons , also it cleans the valves, raises octane and prevents knock and lower Exhaust Gas Temps which helps prevent head cracking. I ran wmi from 2015-present and i still have my original block and head. A CVF intercooler which is the best option for cooling and light, only 25 lbs. The cpe weighs 35lbs and its not needed unless your over 700whp. Running a bigger turbo helps move the tq band to the right and relieve the rods, the charge temps are also lower on a big turbo because its not working as hard, also less backpressure lowers heat on the head which prolongs life.
*Hope this helps, this is some of the things I'd focus on 😉
@@WhiteblurrST thank you soo much. I did the BSD when I installed the baffle. All the mods and suggestions in the you video have been done and some, including e30 tune. The two things missing is larger turbo and meth injection. I am running a 3.5 intercooler from CPE and yes it is on the heavy side. Its just the thought of getting another intercooler is what holds me back $$$. So would you suggest upon a engine rebuild replacing the piston to forge aluminum, with the rest oem? Also with a larger turbo with 21psi never maxing? Keeping it as reliable and consistent as possible.
Get the cvf intercooler on their website using BB5 at checkout if you ever plan to upgrade, id use callies H beams and diamond or manley pistons is what you want, Arp 2000head studs. Oem bearings, oem main bolts.
You dont have to build the motor for a big turbo, just keep things cool and i wouldn't run any e85 on stock motor with a big turbo because it would be past 360whp and if you want the engine to live long, stay around 350whp. Water-meth will prolong the life of the engine, boost depends on the size of the turbo you get but id stick around 20-22psi.
@@WhiteblurrST thanks man really appreciate all the help and time.
Let's gooo
This is gonna be an exciting series!
Remember guys... You can throw all these parts at it or just buy a powermaxx turbo and an intercooler and make 270-290whp all day with everything else stock on 91 oct. 290-310 with intake and exhaust on 91 oct. Nice vid though bro. Accurate
Thanks. Yeah i agree with your statement but im not a fan of hybrid turbos because to me its like putting lip stick on a pig.. it doesn't help with longevity for anything and the exhaust side is the choke point on that goose neck and oem car design, which creates head cracking and even more back pressure on a restrictive design.. for a oem+ build its ok but personally i believe the ko4 would of been a way better turbo for our cars with a rs head, the rs should of gotten the 4 port with a 28 series frame turbo..
@WhiteblurrST Totally agreed. I feel like a lot of cost cutting went into making our cars. Just made them cheaper to buy and people like us fix those cost cutting decisions anyways. Cheers 🍻
Yeah owning this car for over 12 years i have learned alot about cars in general and I've done alot to figure out whats the best setups, most affective or most reliable in most cases. Appreciate the support 🙏
My car is currently tuned, is it safe to tighten the wastegate for the free horsepower or would that need to be factored into my tune?
You can tighten it without tuning absolutely, thats why its free horsepower. It holds boost better this way. Keep an eye on your monitors obviously to make sure your good!
So basically heat makes the pistons fry ? So what if i ran wmi all the time with a gen 2 2867r but we dont have e85 in uk we just have 93 octane max which is 99 ron
Stock internals but around 420bhp ish
Heat definitely doesnt help correct, wmi i would highly recommend it. Did you watch my aem water-meth video? Go check it out.
@@WhiteblurrST i did my friend thankyou 👊🏻
Awesome
Just saying my grandma car toyota avalon xls makes 280 stock n/a kinda seems like a mid car and mid build....
That avalon is also a v6 3.5, they are great cars but that doesn't mean anything in comparison. This video explains the best way to reach 280whp-300whp, not crank hp like the 267hp avalon, the st stock is 252 and 270 in 2013 with a 2.0 and tiny ko3 turbo. This is a starter build video providing info for new ST owners.
Btw i own a few toyotas and love them.
@WhiteblurrST I tip the hat to you sir your completely right.
Appreciate it, i love toyotas so its all good buddy.