Good vid. I’ve made similar reamers with A2.TS, not helical though, nice touch. I don’t rely on the drill to make a concentric hole. I’ll single point bore 0.005” first to ensure concentricity before reaming, sometimes followed by a roller burnishing tool for very smooth bores and greater accuracy. Thanks for posting.
I've been looking into making punch, draw, and cup dies, which require very specific sized holes. Some which are really small, and wouldn't be all that practical for a boring bar. I originally looked for precision custom reamers, and for something less than 1/4" can cost anywhere from $50-$300 and no telling how long they'd last... Glad I found this video, this will save me so much money.
Absolutely right a reamer makes real round holes but on the lathe a turned hole is also absolutely true round and in combination with a good DRO with glass scales i get exact results every time. Good vid like always. On the mill i also use my boring head to get round holes but not so comfortable and exact like on the lathe. A DIY reamer is a goodie that's clear... Thanx
I also use the adjustable reamers the diameter depends on how deep you turn the screw into it, so the blades make a bigger diameter a lot of people dont know how to use them but they are cheap and very accurate and you only need one for lets say 9 to 11mm... you can have every diameter in 0,01mm steps and accuracy between this range with 1 tool...
I’ve tried this before to make chamber reamers I leave them oversized a few thousand and final size after hardening with a dumore grinding attachment on my lathe , or a spin index and sine plate on a surface grinder but had trouble with it not wanting to cut , do you cut a relief on the reamer ? I ended up going with a d reamer but would like to give the spirals another shot .
Nice job thank you for the tutorial on rumors enjoy watching all your videos some of your videos going to excellent details and others are vague on some of the details but overall videos are nice but appreciate you taking your time out of your schedule and making these videos greatly appreciated I enjoy watching them and gaining Knowledge from the videos that you put out
Hi. Your machinning methods are interesting. Can you elaborate more on how you positioned the diamond bit to cut the reamer without chnging the od? Also, xan you please do a video on your setup to turn/mill the spiral reamers?
Here is a previous video about my helical machining apparatus: th-cam.com/video/GQKOHioHJfA/w-d-xo.html To sharpen the reamer, I first aligned the chuck (of my helical machining apparatus) to 10 degrees, and inserted the reamer with one of the flute edges facing directly upwards. Then I tightened the chuck and rotated it back to 0 degrees. Now the intersection of a horizontal plane with the cutting edge of the reamer would form approximately a 10-degree rake angle and relief angle, so from there I just used the flat face of the diamond bit to grind down the back of the reamer tooth until the ground surface just barely touched the cutting edge.
Perhaps this is the video you are looking for: th-cam.com/video/GQKOHioHJfA/w-d-xo.html. While helical flutes have their advantages, straight-flute reamers are also pretty common and pretty serviceable - and much easier to cut if a helical machining jig is not available.
@@TheIdahoanShow I was thinking that you should be able to use the same technique to make a straight reamer. For most purposes it should be just as good. Bravo! good stuff!
I'm fascinated by your "Chuck Norris" apparatus. I'm gonna search your videos to see if I can find more info about it. I'd love to have something similar!
I'm curious as to what needs a 0.444" hole. Looking at your manner of dress and the topics of some of your other vids made me consider a possibility. Cartridges of the World tells me the external diameter of the .44 Henry Centrefire cartridge runs between .443" at the neck and .445" at the base, and that your piece of bar stock is potentially either a full-length resizing die for the case or a dry run for the chamber. However, the thing I was most fascinated with was the manufacture of the reamer. Why is the reamer better than a drill? I could easily have watched you do an extended video solely on the logic behind and manufacture of the reamer. Cool stuff.
Hello, I need some help, I'm producing a pipe for caliber 5.5mm, I need to rake the pipe, but there are 2 doubts, the first is the number of lanes, I have 2 options: 6 lanes and 12 lanes, remembering that the pipe has 24 inches, the second question is, should I use the 5.5 gauge tool or would it be better to use the 5.56 gauge, because after that measure already jumps to 6mm, if you can help I will be grateful.
Compressed air provides a rate of cooling intermediate between oil quenching and natural air cooling. For heavily alloyed steels, this can act sort of like austempering, providing adequate hardening without excessive embrittlement.
You told us, and demonstrated to us, that you are capable of producing a reamer of arbitrary size at exact precision. I am duly impressed. You told us nothing at all how we can do the same. We are truly disappointed.
Very cool project as always! It's immensely useful to be able to make things like this. However, just in case you find yourself in a situation where you'd rather buy something like this in the future, tooling dealers like McMaster-Carr and Bass Tool sell what are sometimes called decimal reamers. ~$30 will get you your .4440" reamer with a +.0002/-0 tolerance. Your way makes the most sense for one-off projects, prototyping, R&D, etc., but hopefully some of the new work you're going to be doing will be successful enough that your time and machine time will be worth more than the asking price for non-standard reamers.
Thanks! Last I checked, McMaster-Carr only carried reamers in increments of .005, so the closest I could have gotten was 0.445 inches, and they only had them in very short lengths, but I'll check again next time I need one.
The McMaster catalog number would be 8803A861 for your 0.444. 7" length. It's a straight flute reamer, but since you're not reaming a blind hole or anything interrupted like a pulley hole with a keyway, straight flutes would suffice. Double check their website. You might have seen that they increment in 5 ten-thousandths and thought 5 thousandths. Trust me, I've made that and similar mistakes when trying to order tooling far more times than I'd like to admit. Fortunately, I had a great sales rep who kept me from making expensive mistakes.
I drilled a hole 7,9 once (sorry I cannot into those fancy inches of yours) well may be it was 7.8 mm, then I took the 8 mm bit next and turned out that the hole I got actually was less than 8 mm because I couldn't put a dowel pin in it. This is how I found out that drillbits are being made, like, minus five hundredth from the nominal size, or so.
I used a 10-degree clearance angle. When I sharpened the reamer using my helical machining apparatus and the diamond bit in a router attached to the mill, I first set the chuck to an angle of 10 degrees, then tightened it on the reamer with the tooth I was going to sharpen facing straight up. Then I rotated the chuck back to zero, engaged the belt, and proceeded to grind the edge. After that, I just indexed the chuck for each of the teeth.
i don't have an air compressor, will quenching it in oil cut it? And what do you mean by type 82 tool steel? i don't live in the US so i don't understand the steel naming system there, can you explain it in metric manner?
It's type A2 tool steel, not 82. The name is short of "Air-hardening tool steel, type 2." However, even though it's designed for an air quench, oil quenching would probably work just fine.
thanks for the clarification. Are there any optional material for the Reamer? like D2,SDK11... I'm looking for something cheap enough for 1 time using only and also soft enough to machine
I also hear that after heat treatment, the actual dimension of the object will change, thus make it not perfectly precise no more, is this true? if so will it affect much on the final product?
The amount of dimensional change during heat treatment depends on the material. In my experience it is usually negligible for reamers of this diameter made from A2 tool steel.
cant you just use a regular milling mahine/drill press for the job, especially such a short piece of bar stock. im convinced at the moment that unless im making rifle barrels,i wont need a lathe
That's a nice reamer but, you're way overthinking this. McMaster Carr has .444 reamers for $32.58, as well as just about every other decimal size you might want. If you really must make your own a "D bit" reamer is really simple to make and doesn't require any weird and troublesome tooling like your norris chuck (which is a primitive version of a device found on antique horizontal milling machines). So, unless you just like building custom tooling, just buy the stinking reamer.
first you turn it to .444 then you grind it and it stays .444 now that is very hard to do and stupid as well why not turn to say .446 and grind to .444?
The die grinder isn't quite as precise as the machining operations, so I prefer to turn to the correct diameter and then just grind right up to the edge without grinding down the edge, rather than trying to measure and control the depth of material removed during sharpening. And of course, grinding is a comparatively slow process, so the less material needs to be removed by grinding, the better. The method I've shown here seems to work pretty well, but if you've got a better method, feel free to make a video about it!
i guess you are right if you grind not enough there is no problem other than the fact that the reamer will not cut and if you grind too much it is trash anyway
I do like your videos. However, many of them seem to be geared toward an adept machinist's or even a mechanical engineer's level. There are no explanations for example, on what gear ratios to use on the Norse chuck, what size pulleys are required for the desired rotation speed outcome etc. Your ideas are great and even practical for someone who can get their head around the math and reduction formulas etc., but math was never my strong point. Also, more drawing and explanation of the concept idea and it's function as opposed to watching the machine turning out the part. I would like to try out some of your projects, but there is just not enough instruction in them to do so.
warning: First 2 minutes are a vanity project that has little to do with actually making a reamer. Sorry guy, nice outfit, but life is finite and i just need a clue about making a reamer. No hate
You're a smart guy. Yet, to me you seem severly niave to the world. I really hope someone doesn't take advantage of you. I don't mean that statement in a neagative way. I've just never posted on this venue before. That's all.
Don't judge a book by its cover... I dont now much of Mr Idahoan but hes not naive that's clear he decides with very smart thoughts behind to live the way he does now after college.
I'm constantly blown away by your ingenuity and workmanship.
Absolutely incredible what you seem to easily create. Thank you for sharing 🙏👍
Thanks for the well made video that actually shows what you've done!
Beautiful job with that. So nice you have wonderful shop equipment, that you are well versed with.
Always enjoy your videos - thanks.
Awesome job as always sir! Keep up the great work!
Good vid.
I’ve made similar reamers with A2.TS, not helical though, nice touch.
I don’t rely on the drill to make a concentric hole. I’ll single point bore 0.005” first to ensure concentricity before reaming, sometimes followed by a roller burnishing tool for very smooth bores and greater accuracy.
Thanks for posting.
Love your channel. Very informative!
Deine Werkstatt ist schon mal der Hit. Einfach nur geil vieles selber herzustellen.
I used to cut my own reamers before moving abroad. 308, 7.62x54, 8 mm mauser , 7.62x39 ...
Good job 👏
Nice to have the machine's that you have.....lot's of fun to play with!!!
My buddy makes reamers for a living this is why I'm watching
you good sir are a bad ass, hope you and yours are well,
Aloha
Bravo! - Fine work!
Brilliant vid sir! I like your style 👌🙏
I've been looking into making punch, draw, and cup dies, which require very specific sized holes. Some which are really small, and wouldn't be all that practical for a boring bar. I originally looked for precision custom reamers, and for something less than 1/4" can cost anywhere from $50-$300 and no telling how long they'd last... Glad I found this video, this will save me so much money.
Check bangood
Absolutely right a reamer makes real round holes but on the lathe a turned hole is also absolutely true round and in combination with a good DRO with glass scales i get exact results every time. Good vid like always. On the mill i also use my boring head to get round holes but not so comfortable and exact like on the lathe. A DIY reamer is a goodie that's clear... Thanx
indeed unless you want to make small and/or deep precise holes. then you can't get around using a reamer
Thank you for the amazing information
OUTSTANDING SKILLS!!!!!
Awesome video! How did you reindex/align the spiral for the sharpening step?
I also use the adjustable reamers the diameter depends on how deep you turn the screw into it, so the blades make a bigger diameter a lot of people dont know how to use them but they are cheap and very accurate and you only need one for lets say 9 to 11mm... you can have every diameter in 0,01mm steps and accuracy between this range with 1 tool...
I’ve tried this before to make chamber reamers I leave them oversized a few thousand and final size after hardening with a dumore grinding attachment on my lathe , or a spin index and sine plate on a surface grinder but had trouble with it not wanting to cut , do you cut a relief on the reamer ? I ended up going with a d reamer but would like to give the spirals another shot .
You are the best looking man on TH-cam!
Thank you!
Thanks for the video.
When sharpening flutes, how to guarantee that you don't reduce the outer diameter?
Nice job thank you for the tutorial on rumors enjoy watching all your videos some of your videos going to excellent details and others are vague on some of the details but overall videos are nice but appreciate you taking your time out of your schedule and making these videos greatly appreciated I enjoy watching them and gaining Knowledge from the videos that you put out
Good video.
Nice job Thank you very much
For reaming a real fancy diameter hole the "quick and dirty" way, you could also use an adjustable reamer.
I dont find those great in a lathe , if you are trying for presision centering , and they can chatter .
@@paulbains9152 they are supposed to be used by hand
ok, the second part is mad machining and i wished i lived next door. cool vid....after 2 mins
Love your channel.
Quick question: could you cut down a reamer to use as a button?
Hi. Your machinning methods are interesting. Can you elaborate more on how you positioned the diamond bit to cut the reamer without chnging the od? Also, xan you please do a video on your setup to turn/mill the spiral reamers?
Here is a previous video about my helical machining apparatus: th-cam.com/video/GQKOHioHJfA/w-d-xo.html
To sharpen the reamer, I first aligned the chuck (of my helical machining apparatus) to 10 degrees, and inserted the reamer with one of the flute edges facing directly upwards. Then I tightened the chuck and rotated it back to 0 degrees. Now the intersection of a horizontal plane with the cutting edge of the reamer would form approximately a 10-degree rake angle and relief angle, so from there I just used the flat face of the diamond bit to grind down the back of the reamer tooth until the ground surface just barely touched the cutting edge.
Thanks!!!
@@TheIdahoanShow This was a very good, shot and competent answer. Earned a Sub!
Dope! Could you point me to the video where you attached to what I assume is the lead screw to grind that helix?
Perhaps this is the video you are looking for: th-cam.com/video/GQKOHioHJfA/w-d-xo.html.
While helical flutes have their advantages, straight-flute reamers are also pretty common and pretty serviceable - and much easier to cut if a helical machining jig is not available.
@@TheIdahoanShow I was thinking that you should be able to use the same technique to make a straight reamer. For most purposes it should be just as good. Bravo! good stuff!
I'm fascinated by your "Chuck Norris" apparatus. I'm gonna search your videos to see if I can find more info about it. I'd love to have something similar!
I'm curious as to what needs a 0.444" hole. Looking at your manner of dress and the topics of some of your other vids made me consider a possibility. Cartridges of the World tells me the external diameter of the .44 Henry Centrefire cartridge runs between .443" at the neck and .445" at the base, and that your piece of bar stock is potentially either a full-length resizing die for the case or a dry run for the chamber.
However, the thing I was most fascinated with was the manufacture of the reamer. Why is the reamer better than a drill? I could easily have watched you do an extended video solely on the logic behind and manufacture of the reamer. Cool stuff.
Hello, I need some help, I'm producing a pipe for caliber 5.5mm, I need to rake the pipe, but there are 2 doubts, the first is the number of lanes, I have 2 options: 6 lanes and 12 lanes, remembering that the pipe has 24 inches, the second question is, should I use the 5.5 gauge tool or would it be better to use the 5.56 gauge, because after that measure already jumps to 6mm, if you can help I will be grateful.
How did you make the helical chuck??
Beautiful work as always....What advantage is there to quenching with compressed air?
Compressed air provides a rate of cooling intermediate between oil quenching and natural air cooling. For heavily alloyed steels, this can act sort of like austempering, providing adequate hardening without excessive embrittlement.
One question, how much does the envelope have for a short gun, I mean turn by length, and how many stretch marks?
Your machining skills are outstanding, thank you for these videos!
Just a thought: What about a punt gun shooting a smoke cannister?
Thanks - I'll keep that in mind!
show us how you hooked up a milling head to the lathe please
Why didn't you just get a set of adjustable reamers? I do enjoy your content old boy, and i am looking forward to seeing what that chamber turns into.
nice,thanks
You told us, and demonstrated to us, that you are capable of producing a reamer of arbitrary size at exact precision. I am duly impressed.
You told us nothing at all how we can do the same. We are truly disappointed.
Very cool project as always!
It's immensely useful to be able to make things like this. However, just in case you find yourself in a situation where you'd rather buy something like this in the future, tooling dealers like McMaster-Carr and Bass Tool sell what are sometimes called decimal reamers. ~$30 will get you your .4440" reamer with a +.0002/-0 tolerance.
Your way makes the most sense for one-off projects, prototyping, R&D, etc., but hopefully some of the new work you're going to be doing will be successful enough that your time and machine time will be worth more than the asking price for non-standard reamers.
Thanks! Last I checked, McMaster-Carr only carried reamers in increments of .005, so the closest I could have gotten was 0.445 inches, and they only had them in very short lengths, but I'll check again next time I need one.
The McMaster catalog number would be 8803A861 for your 0.444. 7" length. It's a straight flute reamer, but since you're not reaming a blind hole or anything interrupted like a pulley hole with a keyway, straight flutes would suffice.
Double check their website. You might have seen that they increment in 5 ten-thousandths and thought 5 thousandths. Trust me, I've made that and similar mistakes when trying to order tooling far more times than I'd like to admit. Fortunately, I had a great sales rep who kept me from making expensive mistakes.
did you say you are working for McFarland?
dostum sen bir harikasın :)
I drilled a hole 7,9 once (sorry I cannot into those fancy inches of yours) well may be it was 7.8 mm, then I took the 8 mm bit next and turned out that the hole I got actually was less than 8 mm because I couldn't put a dowel pin in it.
This is how I found out that drillbits are being made, like, minus five hundredth from the nominal size, or so.
Hey there, quick question. Does it have a clearance angle? And if yes, how did you machine/grind them precisely?
I used a 10-degree clearance angle. When I sharpened the reamer using my helical machining apparatus and the diamond bit in a router attached to the mill, I first set the chuck to an angle of 10 degrees, then tightened it on the reamer with the tooth I was going to sharpen facing straight up. Then I rotated the chuck back to zero, engaged the belt, and proceeded to grind the edge. After that, I just indexed the chuck for each of the teeth.
@@TheIdahoanShow thanks!
he likes a mix of arthur and micha from rdr2
Couldnt you shapen a .50 in reamer down to .44 inch ? theres lots of dull .50 in . reamers around .
Красава!
Could you make one at 0.8709?... I need one this size.
I heard the apalanchian people in USA were very good fighters So I suppose you come from the same area?
Drills also leave a triangular hole, not a round hole. The reamer leaves a truly round hole.
How to set it up on milling machine?
What ya making with such a short 44 barrel?
45 black powder*
i don't have an air compressor, will quenching it in oil cut it?
And what do you mean by type 82 tool steel? i don't live in the US so i don't understand the steel naming system there, can you explain it in metric manner?
It's type A2 tool steel, not 82. The name is short of "Air-hardening tool steel, type 2." However, even though it's designed for an air quench, oil quenching would probably work just fine.
thanks for the clarification. Are there any optional material for the Reamer? like D2,SDK11... I'm looking for something cheap enough for 1 time using only and also soft enough to machine
I also hear that after heat treatment, the actual dimension of the object will change, thus make it not perfectly precise no more, is this true? if so will it affect much on the final product?
D2 makes good reamers too, but it is usually about twice as expensive as A2, and is somewhat more difficult to machine.
The amount of dimensional change during heat treatment depends on the material. In my experience it is usually negligible for reamers of this diameter made from A2 tool steel.
I need to buy you a mic set and some gage pins
Custom reams are a great way to make money.
Do you sell your reamers ? If so where ?
No, I haven't made any for sale, but McMaster-Carr sells reamers online.
👍
What about adjustable reamer??
Measure with telescoping gauges not calipers you can tilt a caliper and make it measure whatever you want
Local hardware stores dont even know what a reamer is in the first place let alone stock them for sale.
cant you just use a regular milling mahine/drill press for the job, especially such a short piece of bar stock. im convinced at the moment that unless im making rifle barrels,i wont need a lathe
Yes, once it's made the reamer can be used in a drill press or milling machine as well as in a lathe tailstock as shown here.
help us figure how to made a reamer for a tapered cartridge. Say 308 or 762x39 or 556
Look up video's for making a chamber reamer on TH-cam.
Yine mütiş işlet çıkarıyorşunuz başarılar istanbuldan selamlar türce altyazı ekleyin videolarınıza sevinirim çok yararlı olacak
Can you make me one in 9.4 mm .?
Tried this but my milling machine /lathe milling attachment is not up to the task. Tried 3 times fail. Operater fail. I need more skills!
Can I get a twenty two long rifle one made
Mcmaster has 0.444 reamers in stock.
😁😁😁😁😁موسع الثقوب
Sounds like a 45 Colt barrel
That's a nice reamer but, you're way overthinking this. McMaster Carr has .444 reamers for $32.58, as well as just about every other decimal size you might want. If you really must make your own a "D bit" reamer is really simple to make and doesn't require any weird and troublesome tooling like your norris chuck (which is a primitive version of a device found on antique horizontal milling machines). So, unless you just like building custom tooling, just buy the stinking reamer.
fifty thousands of an inch sounds unecessesarily complicated
norris chuck....any relation to Chuck Norris?
На солиста из металлики похож
first you turn it to .444 then you grind it and it stays .444
now that is very hard to do and stupid as well
why not turn to say .446 and grind to .444?
The die grinder isn't quite as precise as the machining operations, so I prefer to turn to the correct diameter and then just grind right up to the edge without grinding down the edge, rather than trying to measure and control the depth of material removed during sharpening. And of course, grinding is a comparatively slow process, so the less material needs to be removed by grinding, the better. The method I've shown here seems to work pretty well, but if you've got a better method, feel free to make a video about it!
i guess you are right
if you grind not enough there is no problem other than the fact that the reamer will not cut and if you grind too much it is trash anyway
You didn't show the reamer cutting the the work peice. :( good vids overall tho. Keep up the good work.
69th comment
NICE
I do like your videos. However, many of them seem to be geared toward an adept machinist's or even a mechanical engineer's level. There are no explanations for example, on what gear ratios to use on the Norse chuck, what size pulleys are required for the desired rotation speed outcome etc. Your ideas are great and even practical for someone who can get their head around the math and reduction formulas etc., but math was never my strong point. Also, more drawing and explanation of the concept idea and it's function as opposed to watching the machine turning out the part. I would like to try out some of your projects, but there is just not enough instruction in them to do so.
Da pra vc falar em portugues my fiende??
666
777
warning: First 2 minutes are a vanity project that has little to do with actually making a reamer. Sorry guy, nice outfit, but life is finite and i just need a clue about making a reamer. No hate
You're a smart guy. Yet, to me you seem severly niave to the world. I really hope someone doesn't take advantage of you. I don't mean that statement in a neagative way. I've just never posted on this venue before. That's all.
He is his on man he will learn if that is the case. I personally don't think he is.
How is someone going to take advantage of him? Get him to show him how to machine something for free? I don't get it.
Don't judge a book by its cover... I dont now much of Mr Idahoan but hes not naive that's clear he decides with very smart thoughts behind to live the way he does now after college.