sadeq214 You would need to verify the bolt spacing and 2 additional side holes: there are 6 bolts that hold the cylinder and head to the case, 4 are the main studs, there are 2 additional ones on the side.
dude ur the man. got me one of these that didnt run. but since i been watching u. i got it running and hauling ass bro. i jusf wanted to get on here and say THANK YOU!! i should have made a video and gave u a shout out in it. then i could have shown u how much ur vids helped a man out.!!
I was just wondering I know this video is old but when I was watching this video. I noticed you put your piston upside down did you ever catch it or did your motor blow up.
NCY STORE I have a p152qmi engine, should I set my TDC to the T mark or at the bottom of arrow mark? To the case mark? I'm confused as at arrow mark it seems to be TDC with the cylinder head off ???? Please help dude I'm also getting like a locking clunky nose when turning engine over
Дикомпрессор не поставил в распредвале! Будет убивать стартер и обгонную муфту. При заводке кикстартером можно ногу повредить. The compressor is not set in the camshaft! Will kill the starter and overrunning clutch. When starting a kickstarter, you can damage your leg.
One tries to talk. I guess s_it talk is what you're about. You do not even know what parts of that engine are called. squish band, reuse laminated head gaskets, putting rings on wrong, no lube on piston pin, or cylinder, or rings, or cam, or rocker arms, rounding off valve tappet, setting timing on over lap. thinking the valve pockets are the same for intake and Exhaust. Not knowing how or what type and place to use copper kote. Not understanding why the piston pin is shorter, not understanding why some types of valve retainers are better than others, not understanding a cast piston from a forged piston, not knowing what the holes in the piston are for. I have 30+ years day in and day out in a motorcycle shops, I will make a video on the same day you learn how to work on engines. Stop misleading people with your videos on how to do something that is wrong from the get go.
72+HourBOB 72+HourBOB by the way you're right let me reinstate this again here as I mentioned on the first video description this is a dry installation demo only. If it was for actual engine use please use proper assembly lube and motor oil. Sorry English is not my first language I try my best. We are working progress this is our first TH-cam video ever assemble :)
7 ft/lbs for the cylinder studs?.13 to 14 ft/lbs is good.The 2 cylinder side bolts are the last ones to torque after you have torqued the main four stud nuts..It is common sense.The chain tensioner you install it at the end after you have torqued the 4 studs...i hope this helps...Something..i have noticed how dirty your heads are with carbon build up...That is why it is so important to break in the engine the hard way..no syn oil at first...Just break it in rolling up and down gradually...I break in my engine with no traffic..like after 2 am...I ride it for 2 to 3 miles constantly rolling up and down and let it rest...some 15 to 20 minutes and then repeat..no idle is good when breakin it in...Roll it up gradually as if you were sanding the cylinder walls and release it and repeat..After the first 50 miles that engine is good..no syn oil until at least 1000 miles or when you feel.it needs it..I start adding 10 ml of syn at every oil change there after..just make sure the API service code is the same when mixing oils,until i only use syn oil..The best results i have gotten with my air cooled scooter are with semi synthetic oil that i mix myself..to get the best of both worlds..Syn oil is better for liquid cooled scooters...since it does not absorb heat as much as conventional motor oil. Once you are using only syn oil add 10 ml of stp high mileage oil treatment to avoid the seals from leaking..or use high mileage fully synthetic oil.Also..The fuel mixture screw depending on the altitude should never be open at 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 turns as the manual states..I use and endoscope and check for carbon deposits in the piston head and the cylinder top..if it is not clean, it is rich...Also the spark plug tells you..I have NGK spark plugs that i have been using for 5 years and over with no problems..I also use cold spark plugs..not the seven but the 8 and my scooter never reach not even 110 farenheit in the florida hot summer days..Mike..You are great guy and i really lile your videos..I learned by myself and now want to share with you and everybody else the things that really work, not in theory but in real situations...I have been delivering food for over 7 years on my scooters..i have a 2014 and it runs like new and it takes a 5 days a week beating of a 5 to 7 hours shift with literally no rest..i usually start at 7 pm till midnight or sometimes even till 4 am...This is not theory..these are real facts..i put no less than 500 miles a week on whatever scooter i am using..Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with the scooter community..Oh something i forgot..where i live i do not need to open the air fuel mixture screw over a turn In summer maybe 3/4 to 1 turn in winter 1 to 1 1/2 of a turn..I also put 10 ml of lucas fuel treatment per gallon in regular gas..been doing it for years and the endoscope does not lie my brother..have a wonderful day everyone
sadeq214 With regards to the 1P57QMJ block I have found out that the head on it is larger than on a regular 157qmj to allow for more airflow and it has bigger valves. This also means that it has a longer chain and the bolt on kit will not fit. It is actually a 147cc and has one and a half to two horsepower more than the standard 157qmj. So in short. The "P" block is an oem semi high-performance head. It's just taller than the standard head.
sadeq214 You would need to verify the bolt spacing and 2 additional side holes: there are 6 bolts that hold the cylinder and head to the case, 4 are the main studs, there are 2 additional ones on the side.
dude ur the man. got me one of these that didnt run. but since i been watching u. i got it running and hauling ass bro. i jusf wanted to get on here and say THANK YOU!! i should have made a video and gave u a shout out in it. then i could have shown u how much ur vids helped a man out.!!
Charles Graham excellent work bro!
If one of the small holes is slightly ahead or behind the surface of the head does that mean the chain is a link or 2 wrong at the crank?
I was just wondering I know this video is old but when I was watching this video. I noticed you put your piston upside down did you ever catch it or did your motor blow up.
T stands for TDC not "timing". You're also a tooth off on your timing.
asandberg6 sorry I thought we word playing make it easier remember. You could be right but the camera angle could be wrong.
NCY STORE I have a p152qmi engine, should I set my TDC to the T mark or at the bottom of arrow mark? To the case mark? I'm confused as at arrow mark it seems to be TDC with the cylinder head off ????
Please help dude
I'm also getting like a locking clunky nose when turning engine over
Mine is the same . Gonna try an move chain a couple links from the crank shaft
Дикомпрессор не поставил в распредвале! Будет убивать стартер и обгонную муфту. При заводке кикстартером можно ногу повредить.
The compressor is not set in the camshaft! Will kill the starter and overrunning clutch. When starting a kickstarter, you can damage your leg.
Hi I have a 2017 znen t 7g 150 cc 157 qMJ motor. Will this kit fit ?
What about break- in lube for camshaft ?
Breaking lubricant I think the motor oil is just sufficient
Assembly lube* and I agree you should it will definitely help
There was not one thing done right on this top end rebuild. The only place I can think of where this engine rebuild would have been ok in is Poland.
feel free to share your video on how to do it the right way your way :) this video is a learning video appreciate all the constructive feedback.
One tries to talk. I guess s_it talk is what you're about. You do not even know what parts of that engine are called. squish band, reuse laminated head gaskets, putting rings on wrong, no lube on piston pin, or cylinder, or rings, or cam, or rocker arms, rounding off valve tappet, setting timing on over lap. thinking the valve pockets are the same for intake and Exhaust. Not knowing how or what type and place to use copper kote. Not understanding why the piston pin is shorter, not understanding why some types of valve retainers are better than others, not understanding a cast piston from a forged piston, not knowing what the holes in the piston are for. I have 30+ years day in and day out in a motorcycle shops, I will make a video on the same day you learn how to work on engines. Stop misleading people with your videos on how to do something that is wrong from the get go.
But I do not lie to mine.
72+HourBOB 72+HourBOB by the way you're right let me reinstate this again here as I mentioned on the first video description this is a dry installation demo only. If it was for actual engine use please use proper assembly lube and motor oil. Sorry English is not my first language I try my best. We are working progress this is our first TH-cam video ever assemble :)
Hello, very good job :) Regards!
Urko Ziplon thank you cheers!
Your Welcome...Regards from POLAND:)
what is the F for
7 ft/lbs for the cylinder studs?.13 to 14 ft/lbs is good.The 2 cylinder side bolts are the last ones to torque after you have torqued the main four stud nuts..It is common sense.The chain tensioner you install it at the end after you have torqued the 4 studs...i hope this helps...Something..i have noticed how dirty your heads are with carbon build up...That is why it is so important to break in the engine the hard way..no syn oil at first...Just break it in rolling up and down gradually...I break in my engine with no traffic..like after 2 am...I ride it for 2 to 3 miles constantly rolling up and down and let it rest...some 15 to 20 minutes and then repeat..no idle is good when breakin it in...Roll it up gradually as if you were sanding the cylinder walls and release it and repeat..After the first 50 miles that engine is good..no syn oil until at least 1000 miles or when you feel.it needs it..I start adding 10 ml of syn at every oil change there after..just make sure the API service code is the same when mixing oils,until i only use syn oil..The best results i have gotten with my air cooled scooter are with semi synthetic oil that i mix myself..to get the best of both worlds..Syn oil is better for liquid cooled scooters...since it does not absorb heat as much as conventional motor oil.
Once you are using only syn oil add 10 ml of stp high mileage oil treatment to avoid the seals from leaking..or use high mileage fully synthetic oil.Also..The fuel mixture screw depending on the altitude should never be open at 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 turns as the manual states..I use and endoscope and check for carbon deposits in the piston head and the cylinder top..if it is not clean, it is rich...Also the spark plug tells you..I have NGK spark plugs that i have been using for 5 years and over with no problems..I also use cold spark plugs..not the seven but the 8 and my scooter never reach not even 110 farenheit in the florida hot summer days..Mike..You are great guy and i really lile your videos..I learned by myself and now want to share with you and everybody else the things that really work, not in theory but in real situations...I have been delivering food for over 7 years on my scooters..i have a 2014 and it runs like new and it takes a 5 days a week beating of a 5 to 7 hours shift with literally no rest..i usually start at 7 pm till midnight or sometimes even till 4 am...This is not theory..these are real facts..i put no less than 500 miles a week on whatever scooter i am using..Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with the scooter community..Oh something i forgot..where i live i do not need to open the air fuel mixture screw over a turn
In summer maybe 3/4 to 1 turn in winter 1 to 1 1/2 of a turn..I also put 10 ml of lucas fuel treatment per gallon in regular gas..been doing it for years and the endoscope does not lie my brother..have a wonderful day everyone
Wow i hope the next person reads this lengthy comment get some value from it. Thank you.
my scooter sym gy6 engine number is XS1P57QMJ_3 it is ok
sadeq214 With regards to the 1P57QMJ block I have found out that the head on it is larger than on a regular 157qmj to allow for more airflow and it has bigger valves. This also means that it has a longer chain and the bolt on kit will not fit. It is actually a 147cc and has one and a half to two horsepower more than the standard 157qmj. So in short. The "P" block is an oem semi high-performance head. It's just taller than the standard head.
Dose this kit work for an ssr 125?
If its a GY6 engine 125cc or 150cc, yes.
@@NCYSTORE do u remember where u bought it from?
Very god